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CO N TE N TS

STYLE 88 ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE WEST Take a trip to the wild countryside

CONTENTS

106 DOUBLE DENIM A double dose of a wardrobe staple

TRENDING

28 THE NEW POWER The season’s must-have luxury looks with Manahou Mackay 4 0 S U G A R C O AT E D A sweet fix, minus the guilt 42 ANIMAL INSTINCT Take a walk on the wild side 4 4 I N T H E M AT R I X Free your mind, we’ll show you how

122 O N TH E ROAD Riding, top down, on the highway

5 2 PA R I S , J E T ’A I M E Louis Vuitton’s new arm candy in the City of Love 60 NEW DIMENSIONS Nicole Miller-Wong transports luxury to a faraway land 70 MAKING A MARK Cherry Kim puts pen to pant 72 TR EN D I N G N OTEBOO K All the fashion news to know now

46 DEEP IN THE TRENCHES The outer layer you need this season

7 8 D I V E R S I T Y I N FA S H I O N Angela Bevan on the changing face of the fashion industry

4 8 T I M E WA R P Retro-inspired looks revisited

82 M O D ER N H EI R LOO M S Tashji’s golden touch

50 RED ALERT When in doubt, wear red

84 ASK COURTNEY Your style dilemmas, solved

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robertocoin.com

LOVE IN VERONA COLLECTION


CO N TE N TS

BEAUT Y 1 3 8 U N TA M E D B E A U T Y Embrace natural beauty this season 14 8 B E AUT Y N OTEBOO K New and noteworthy must-haves 1 5 1 Y O U R T R U E M AT C H Find your perfect foundation with L’Oréal Paris 152 A MOISTURISER FOR EVERY MOMENT With La Mer’s legendary Miracle Broth 154 GOOD SCENTS A new destination is just a spritz away 156 MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP Clean, green beauty with Anna Ross 157 TH E S EC R E T TO C AR I N G FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Heal your skin sensitivities with Avène’s Thermal Spring Water 1 5 8 S AV E O U R T R E S S E S Tips and tricks to treat your locks 1 62 HAI R N OTEBOO K Tender, loving haircare

177 THE WORLD’S HER S TA G E A former St Cuthbert’s student’s journey to international success

1 8 9 C O L O U R M AT C H An autumnal palette from Resene

L I F E & C U LT U R E

191 BEHIND THE WHEEL Come for a ride in the all-new Lexus IS

164 RETHINKING WELLNESS Falling under the wellness spell 168 SHOP WITH FQ The beauty buys you need now

180 CALLING IN The rise and fall of cancel culture

ON TOP 172 SECOND CALLING How to deal with career change 1 7 6 CAREER NOTEBOOK Essentials to nail your #careergoals 16

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184 SWIPE RIGHT Navigating the online dating world 1 8 6 L I F E & C U LT U R E N OTEBOO K What to watch, eat, and read

190 FQ BOOK CLUB The books on our radar this autumn

1 9 2 O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K Rosalie and Myles’ village of love 200 COVE T Reminisce on summer days with the scent of sunshine


N I CO LE’ S ED IT

Juliette Hogan ‘Alisa’ shirt, $469

Zoe & Morgan ‘Luna’ earrings, $1510

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Wynn Hamlyn ‘Loop’ knit dress, $550

Yu Mei ‘Milly’ bag, $875

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PHOTOGRAPHY UNSPLASH — CASEY HORNER

i d re s

lushest shades of evergreen.


EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER GREG VINCENT BUSINESS DIRECTOR MICHAEL WHITE GENERAL MANAGER SIMON HOLLOWAY

EDITOR NICOLE SAUNDERS CREATIVE DIRECTOR COURTNEY JOE ART DIRECTOR BOBBY SAUNDERS SUBEDITOR ODELIA SCHAARE

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER JOANNE ORTON

COMMERCIAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR GENEVIEVE ALI ACTING COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR VANESSA BATHFIELD ACCOUNT MANAGER / BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER CATHERINE RIBIERE

CONTRIBUTORS PRODUCTION DIGITAL PLATFORMS MANAGER HENRY KHOV CONTENT DIRECTOR ISOBEL SIMMONS CAMPAIGN MANAGER RENAE FISHER

SARA ALLSOP, TORI AMBLER, APELA BELL, ANGELA BEVAN, JAMES BLACK, KELLIE BLIZARD, ROSALIE BURNS, NATALIE DENT, JAMES K LOWE, PETER LENNON, NAOMI MCFADDEN, JAYCEE MENTOOR, NICOLE MILLER-WONG, SARAH MURRAY, OLIVIA O’DRISCOLL, MIKE ROOKE, RAE SACHA, JACKIE SHAW, JENNA SMITH, KIEKIE STANNERS, STEPHEN TILLEY, ISABELLE TRUMAN, HOLLY WARD, LEISA WELCH

ADVE RTISING ENQUIRIES DIRECT / NEW BUSINESS, NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIA

CATHERINE RIBIERE +64 27 252 0674, CATHERINE.RIBIERE@ PARKSIDE.CO.NZ INTERNATIONAL

ADVERTISING COORDINATOR EMILY KHOV SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER LIZ BROOK SUBSCRIPTIONS COORDINATOR AMIE THORNTON

WITH THANKS BEAUTY CITIZEN, KULT AUSTRALIA, LOSERKID, MOUNT ALBERT MOTOR LODGE, PUBLIC LIBRARY SHOWROOM, SUPER MANAGEMENT, SYMMETRY STUDIO, TOM MASON, UNIQUE MODEL MANAGEMENT, 62 MANAGEMENT

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EDITOR@FQ.CO.NZ

VANESSA BATHFIELD +64 21 643 369, VANESSA.BATHFIELD@ PARKSIDE.CO.NZ FASHION QUARTERLY IS PUBLISHED BY PARKSIDE MEDIA LTD PO BOX 46,020 HERNE BAY AUCKLAND 1147 NEW ZEALAND

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES MAGSTORE.NZ SUBSCRIPTIONS@MAGSTORE.NZ 0800 727 574 ISSUE: AUTUMN 2021 PUBLICATION DATE: 29 MARCH 2021 FQ.CO.NZ

Fashion Quarterly is subject to copyright in its entirety. The contents may not be reproduced in any form, either whole or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved in material accepted for publication, unless initially specified otherwise. Colours are printed as close as technically possible to specs provided. All letters and other material forwarded to the magazine will be assumed intended for publication unless clearly labelled ‘not for publication’. Opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Parkside Media. Prices quoted in the magazine are a guide only and subject to change. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material.

Audited net circulation, Q1–Q4 2019 13,003 copies; readership 173,000.

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THE NEW FRAGRANCES

FOR HER

FOR HIM


F R O M T HE E D I TOR

hen the doors to Bauer New Zealand closed almost precisely one year ago, it was with great sadness that Fashion Quarterly’s unpublished issue number two for 2020 was quietly archived, never to be read or cherished by the publication’s loyal reader base. A year on, it felt fitting that we revisit the cover star of the unseen issue — transgender model Te Manahou Mackay. With a name that means ‘the new power’, it should come as no surprise that Mackay has become an unstoppable force over the years — becoming a runway regular, gracing the cover of Vogue Australia, and fronting various campaigns for local and international brands are just a few of her accomplishments. Mackay might currently be based across the ditch in Sydney, but it’s been a pleasure to watch her meteoric rise to the top from afar. While Mackay has undoubtedly helped open the doors for others to follow in her footsteps, the industry still has a way to go as far as inclusivity is concerned, which Angela Bevan explores on page 78. And, along with all the style inspiration and beauty advice you need for the season ahead, we also talk with two up-and-coming talents in the fashion industry — now New York–based Rhee and jewellery designer Tashji — about the bold risks that they’ve taken recently to get to where they are today. In fact, for many, the turmoil of 2020 left us hungry and searching for something more in life. And a change of season tends to bring such a mindset to the forefront once again. Whether it’s redefining what we want from our relationships — we explore what online dating looks like in a post-Covid world on page 184 — or rethinking our nine to five, 2020 was an impetus for change. And while, for a number of us, that meant looking for meaning and purpose where our careers were concerned, taking that initial leap into the unknown is undeniably daunting. In ‘Second Calling’ (page 172), Sarah Murray talks to three women who threw caution to the wind and successfully embarked on a new career journey. The beginning of autumn is also the time that many of us embrace the wonderful, yet often weird and wacky, world of wellness with open arms to boost our immunity or find a sense of calm after a hectic summer. But, as Isabelle Truman explores on page 164, not all is as it seems in an industry plagued by influencers and fad-peddling. We’ve packed the issue with something for everyone, and hope you’ll find the inspiration you need — whether that be for your wardrobe, career, or skincare routine — inside. Te Manahou Mackay wears Maggie Marilyn ‘Heals the Heart’ dress, with Aaizél cardigan and Nanushka handbag. Opposite: Isabelle Truman dives into the mind-boggling crystal-fuelled world of wellness on page 164.

Nicole Saunders Editor 20

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N I CO LE’ S ED IT

Juliette Hogan ‘Alisa’ shirt, $469

Zoe & Morgan ‘Luna’ earrings, $1510

s

V

tt ui

on

b ra ce

let, P OA

Lo

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Louis Vuitton heels, POA

Wynn Hamlyn ‘Loop’ knit dress, $550

Yu Mei ‘Milly’ bag, $875

Nicole’s Edit

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As nature turns to warm shades of ochre, amber, and fiery orange, complement the

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50 fr

colour palette with Mother Earth’s

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40

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Mi

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Ruby ‘Ronnie’ mesh top, $299

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an

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, $360

PHOTOGRAPHY UNSPLASH — CASEY HORNER

i d re s

lushest shades of evergreen.


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CO N TR I BU TOR S @angebevan

A change of season is not only felt in the world around us but also within us. We asked a few of our favourite Fashion Quarterly contributors what the beginning of autumn symbolises to them.

@nicolemillerwong

@apelabell @rosalieburns @oliviaodriscool

Apela Bell PHOTOGRAPHER “I honestly wish I could say I embrace the change in seasons with my fashion, but I am always layering up with my clothing every season, especially in autumn. It’s the season of change and comfort. Autumn always comes with a reminder to always appreciate what we have in the present.”

Rosalie Burns

Nicole Miller-Wong

DIGITAL CONTENT CREATOR “This year, autumn brings love. It introduces the first month of married life, more evenings cuddled up on the couch with a hot tea. The cooler

ART DIRECTOR “The change of season gives me a chance to refresh my wardrobe and also my mindset. I jump at the opportunity to add additional layers into my wardrobe and

weather means less time in the ocean, but more time sinking our toes in the Piha sand with a wine in hand, walking down the beach. Autumn brings more work, busy days in the office, and back-to-back meetings. It means it’s time for me to work hard and start achieving goals I set for myself earlier in the year. More daydreaming of our wedding in February, less worrying about whether or not I’d trip down the aisle … It’s going to be a good autumn, I can already feel it.”

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Olivia O’Driscoll

Angela Bevan COMMUNICATIONS CONSULTANT “This autumn will bring me my eldest son, who will come home for the season, so I will be my happiest as I always am when all my three boys are able to be under one roof. Right now, that’s more precious than ever. I will be embracing the change in seasons with gratitude in my heart, and hopefully some of those cream fluffy Allbirds slippers on my feet …”

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BEAUTY CITIZEN “Being the pale recluse I am, the autumn/winter months suit me just fine! Autumn definitely offers space for growth and hard work, with less tempting distractions, that’s for sure. We are beyond fortunate to have such an epic summer playground, but it’s equally as nice to enjoy these cooler months that bring with them self-reflection and (hopefully) selfimprovement. Red wine, a roaring fire, hot baths, layered clothing, and beautiful warm make-up tones … these are a few of my favourite things.”

an extra blanket on the bed. The switch into autumn also helps me refresh and focus on what I want to achieve in the coming months.”


©2021 Clinique Laboratories, LLC

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T R EN D I N G

THE NEW POWER

The wondrous world of fashion is your playground this autumn. Bend all the rules and mix, match, and clash colours, textures, and silhouettes until your heart is content.

PHOTOGRAPHY HOLLY WARD STYLING JACKIE SHAW MODEL MANAHOU MACKAY AT KULT

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THINK PINK Gucci shirt, $1668, jacket, $3207, and skirt, $1830.



T R ENDING

HEY SUNSHINE Prada coat, $4840, dress, $2850, pullover, $2000, and heels, $1570. Opposite: Oroton trench, $800. Zara scarf, $25. Oroton bag, $430. Meadowlark earrings, $1495.

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T R EN D I N G

IT’S IN THE BAG Esse top, $340. Bulgari bag, $4590, bracelet, $20,900, and earrings, $4290. Opposite: Tory Burch kaftan, $735, pants, $920, and bag, $735. Zara hat, $50.

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T R ENDING

BUTTER UP Gucci jacket, $4650, shirt, $3325, and print skirt, $1900. Opposite: Chanel cardigan, top, skirt, belt, headband, and earrings, all POA.

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T R EN D I N G

CHECKMATE Maggie Marilyn dress, $995. Aaizél cardigan, $725. Nanushka bag, $370, from The Outnet. Mineraleir necklace, POA.

Opposite: Christian Dior lace playsuit, POA, lace brief, POA, and ring, POA.

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T R EN D I N G THAT’S A WRAP Prada coat, $5300, dress, $2850, pullover, $2000, and heels, $1570. Hair: Peter Lennon. Make-up: Naomi McFadden.

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Partridge Jewellers multi-coloured sapphire drop earrings, $10,550

T R EN D I N G

Jessica McCormack & The Haas Brothers ‘Enamel Snake’ wrap ring, POA

Deadly Ponies ‘Mr Sling’ bag, $579

Dodo B a

FENDI SS21

trouse rs , $ 1 1 1 1 f rom Far fetch

Paris Georgia ‘Bernie’ dress, $590

r O r ‘ C o c o ’ h i g h -wa i s t

The Vampire’s Wife ‘Falconetti’ dress, $3198 from Workshop

MSGM tied-waist button-up shirt, $621 from Farfetch

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Sugar and spice and all things nice: that’s

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what your wardrobe should be made of

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prints, textures, and colours straight from the animal kingdom.

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T R ENDING

DOWN TO A TEE Twenty-Seven Names, Wynn Hamlyn, and Kate Sylvester have teamed up with Mindful Fashion New Zealand to create printed T-shirts for the organisation’s Full Circle T-Shirt project. “The story behind these T-shirts demonstrates what it truly means for a garment to be circular and responsibly made,” explains Jacinta FitzGerald, programme director of Mindful Fashion. “Each T-shirt is made from organic cotton grown and produced in a fully certified supply chain. They are manufactured, printed, and finished in New Zealand, with a pathway to be recycled back into new fibre at the end of their life once they are no longer repairable or wearable.” Proceeds from the T-shirts will go towards supporting sustainable fashion development in New Zealand. The T-shirts are available from mindfulfashion.co.nz and through the designers’ websites.

ALL EARS

Perfect jewels are the finishing touch to any party-ready look, and Zoe & Morgan brings to life the excitement of getting ready for a special occasion in its latest collection: Ear Party. Designed to be both fun and timeless, you can opt for your favourite style or embrace the playful side of the collection by mixing, matching, and layering as many pieces as you like to create your own one-of-a-kind look.

LOVES

A R M C A N DY Made from monogram-embossed puffy lambskin, Louis Vuitton’s latest ‘it’ bag — Coussin — steals the show as far as covetable arm candy is concerned this season. Designed by artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière, the aptly named pillow-like Coussin bag explores the space between the feminine and masculine. Wear it cross-body, as a chain baguette, or carried under the arm as a clutch.

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Prada ‘Symbole’ drop earrings, $1350

GABRIELA HEARST SS21

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and striking silhouettes.

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T R ENDING

PERFECT HARMONY

LOVES

Practicality and style collide in Mi Piaci’s autumn/winter collection, In Harmony. Design and form are at the heart of the collection, which features premium leathers, elevated hardware, on-trend heel detail, and unexpected textures. These sit easily alongside faithful friends interpreted in exciting new ways, crafted by Mi Piaci’s team of inspired designers. Mi Piaci AW21 In Harmony: a curated and considered collection by New Zealand women, for all women.

CHAIN REACTION

Bulgari fans rejoice: the inimitable Serpenti Forever handbag has been reimagined just in time to fulfil your autumn arm-candy wish list. Continuing the house’s chain-motif evolution, the new addition — the Maxi Chain — features the chain detailing we know and love with a bolder look. And it wouldn’t be Bulgari without a nod to the house’s archives. Drawing inspiration from Bulgari’s heritage watch from the ’60s, the iconic Serpenti head has been reinvented for the new Serpenti Forever too. So, if you haven’t already made your way to Bulgari’s one-and-only local boutique — located on Queen Street in Auckland — may we suggest you get yourself there, stat.

HELLO, HERMÈS! Come May, we’ll be running — not walking — into Smith & Caughey’s Queen Street, as a highly anticipated French import touches down on Kiwi soil. Much to our delight, the department store is set to become the New Zealand home of Hermès Make-Up. The adored iconic brand will launch locally with an array of sought-after lipsticks. With satin and matte formulas and lip balms in easy-to-wear shades, it’s bound to be love at first sight. And yes, each lipstick comes in Hermès’ famous vibrant orange packaging. FQ.CO.NZ

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Dior earrings, POA

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T R EN D I N G

Wynn Hamlyn polo knit top, $350

Juliette Hoga n ‘Lisbeth’ dress, Dodo Bar Or ‘Hera’ bodysuit, $682 from Matches Fashion

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$8 99 Mulberry small ‘Millie’ tote, $1995

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Louis Vuitton handbag, POA


Mariella — $380 | Mila — $540

AW 21 C O L L E C T I O N I N - S T O R E S A N D O N L I N E N O W MIPIACI.COM


T R EN D I N G

Amina Muaddi ‘Karma’ pumps, $2269 from Farfetch

Partridge Jewellers ‘Ruby Double Halo Drop’ earrings, POA

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Deadly Ponies ‘Rosa Flip N Snap’ wallet, $259

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Longines ‘Dolce Vita’ watch, $5395 from Partridge Jewellers


saben.co.nz | @sabenltd | 133 Ponsonby Rd


CITY OF LOVE Louis Vuitton ‘Capucines PM’ bag in taurillon leather.

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T R ENDING

Paris, je t’aime Each season, Louis Vuitton’s most iconic design — the Capucines bag — is reimagined to reflect an ongoing dialogue with the times. This winter, Olympia of Greece explores the City of Love, arm in arm with the new Capucines styles.

PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL JANSSEN STYLING ISABELLE KOUNTOURE

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ST YLE


ST YLE Maggie Marilyn ‘Nothing Hurts Like a Broken Heart’ shirt, $650. COS pants, $165. Selke leather hat, $149 from Hattitude. Sebago ‘Seneca’ boat shoes, $389.99. Simon De Winter socks, $9.99 from Farmers. Hallensteins ‘Lost Monarchy’ braces, $19.99. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ earrings, $450 (launching late April). Jasmin Sparrow ‘Samara’ ring, $379. Backpack stylist’s own.


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T R ENDING

ON THE GO Louis Vuitton ‘Capucines BB’ bag in taurillon leather.

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Maggie Marilyn ‘Gather Your Thoughts’ dress, $950. Penny Sage ‘Charlton’ trench, $860, and hat, $180. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Sparkle’ earrings, $539, ‘Serge’ ring (left), $349, and ‘Samara’ ring (middle), $379. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ signet ring (right), $340 (launching late April).

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T R ENDING

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O livia ‘Ariel ’ ch eck dress , $

2 29

ST YLE

Deadly Ponies ‘Twister’ bag, $999

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Karen Walker Jewellery mini ‘Horseshoe’ studs, $379

5 $ 52 ir t, i sk

skir t, $ 6 6 0

Get the Look Look to the crisp autumn leaves for inspiration — they may fall, but you’ll rise to great heights in this spectrum of earthy tones.

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Bottega Veneta aviator sunglasses, $533 from Mytheresa

‘ Ra ng

er ’

bo ot s,

Gucci ‘Horsebit 1955’ small bucket bag, $2640

Calvin Klein ‘Logo Jacquard Crossbody’ bag, $229

RM Williams ‘Marla’ shirt, $145

o l o r ‘ I vo r y R a n c h e r ’ h a t , $

B e a u Co o p s

Dior belt, $1750

L ac

$4

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by n o s ea s s i es. ts th l h p g a i st he m w i e n de to n c i n s a s cla ue je r l u b o old —y r g a n ipli 7 - ye r t 4 1 t no the f i e k — Ta PHO ling b TO G u RAP do H Y AP

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ELA

BEL

L ST YL

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RTN

EY J

OE


Florence & Fortitude ‘Florence’ jacket, $1400, and ‘Iain’ jeans, $650. Kathryn Wilson ‘Louise’ loafers, $329. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229. Olivia ‘Hexagon’ earrings, $49. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Cherry’ ring, $269.


T R ENDING

Dior ‘D-Choc’ pump, POA. Opposite: Prada ‘System’ nappa leather patchwork bag, $4500.


Prada ‘Cleo’ brushed leather shoulder bag, $3200, and brushed leather sandal, $1570. Opposite: Gucci ‘Dionysus’ small shoulder bag, $3500 from T Galleria by DFS.

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T R ENDING


Mina ‘Day’ shirt, $345. Penny Sage ‘Lyrical’ dress, $320. Kathryn Wilson ‘Wendy’ brogues, $329. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229, and ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (top), $319, and ‘Proteger’ ring (bottom), $359. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Opposite: Paloma Wool ‘Avril’ jacket, $329. Ksubi ‘Graduate’ midi skirt, $264.95. Deadly Ponies ‘Midi Python’ belt, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499.


T R ENDING

Bulgari ‘Serpenti Forever’ cross-body bag, $3820 from T Galleria by DFS. Opposite: Dior ‘Lady Dior My ABCDior’ bag, $7600, and ‘J’Adior Slingback Ballerina’ flat, $1400.

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ST Y L E

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Totême ‘Army Denim’ jacket, $889, and ‘Original Denim’ jeans, $399 from Fabric. Sebago ‘Classic Dan’ loafers, $299.99 from Workshop. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429 and ‘Blue’ ring (top), $269. Meadowlark ‘Claude’ ring (middle), $219, and ‘Miro’ signet ring (bottom), $319. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Chair by Dan Gosling and Ryan Buxeda. Opposite: Mitchell & Ness ‘Lakers’ sweater, $109.90. Florence & Fortitude ‘Georgie’ skirt, $540. Kathryn Wilson ‘Shandre’ loafers, $259. Silk & Steel ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499. Meadowlark ‘Claude’ ring (left), $219, and ‘Miro’ signet ring (right), $319. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers.


MAKING A MARK They say that adversity breeds creativity, an expression which certainly rings true for designer Cherry Kim, who, amid the global pandemic, has fast gained a cult-like following in the fashion and design world. WORDS COURTNEY JOE

C

herry Kim is quick to dismiss herself as the “chair lady”. But

aesthetically pleasing but also functional. I feel that really touches on my aesthetic

it’s chairs — and really iconic

in different areas of my life. Like with the

chairs, at that — that have put the 24-year-old, Aotearoa-born, New Yorkbased designer on the global stage with her custom studio label, Rhee. In a lockdownfuelled burst of creativity, Kim has turned an accidental hobby into a side hustle that’s garnered the attention of international streetwear collectors and culture media alike, from Complex and The Observer to The Business of Fashion. Named after Kim’s mother’s maiden name, Rhee is the manifestation of the designer’s New York lockdown environment. A womenswear and print designer by trade, Kim found herself at home, with reduced work hours and limited art supplies. “Covid hit last year. It was a totally different environment, going from existing in the same space as my team to working remotely, constantly being on Google meet calls, trying to figure out a collection. Things felt a bit slower — I think everyone detached from feeling the need to have a collection [made by a certain] ... deadline. Everyone’s hours got dropped and things slowed down, so it was during this time that I started to illustrate,” Kim reflects. Armed with the only art supplies she had — Sharpies as the medium and vintage cotton Stan Rays as the canvas — Kim began to draw. Initially, the illustrations were in the form of “pretty manic” logos, Disney characters, and postcards. It wasn’t until she traded in the Sharpies for a set of fabric markers that Kim began experimenting with the one household item that was on her mind — chairs. The ubiquity of the chair is something that parallels her design aesthetic completely, Kim explains. “I like how chairs can be so

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Carhartts [another favoured canvas for Kim] — I feel like they’re a beautiful pair of pants but


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DROP THE MIC Calvin Klein’s minimalism — the perfect white tee, structured denim, and iconic monogram underwear — forms a blank canvas for

THE TOP SHELF

creative expression this season. Captured by

Say the words La Prairie and ‘unprecedented results’ in the same sentence, and you’ve got our attention. Platinum Rare Haute-Rejuvenation Protocol, $3140, is the next revolutionary chapter in La Prairie’s quest for eternally beautiful, healthy skin. As the price tag alludes: this is no ordinary skin-treatment regimen. The month-long intensive rejuvenating face treatment has the restorative properties of platinum at its heart, which boosts the skin’s rejuvenation process. Within a month, skin is resilient, volume restored, lines and wrinkles diminished, and luminosity radiates from within.

photographer Mario Sorrenti and director Terence Nance, the new campaign brings the stories of today’s visionaries — including Black Lives Matter international ambassador Janaya Future Khan (pictured) — to life through captivating visuals, dialogue, and movement.

Trending Notebook Everything new and noteworthy that you

need on your style radar and in your life and wardrobe this season.

M A D E F O R WA L K I N G

Louis Vuitton ‘Pillow’ boot $1930

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Ganni ‘Trek-Sole’ boot, $600

Mi Piaci ‘Daphne’ boot, $400

Chloé ‘Betty’ boot, $625


T R ENDING

DOWN TO A TEE Twenty-Seven Names, Wynn Hamlyn, and Kate Sylvester have teamed up with Mindful Fashion New Zealand to create printed T-shirts for the organisation’s Full Circle T-Shirt project. “The story behind these T-shirts demonstrates what it truly means for a garment to be circular and responsibly made,” explains Jacinta FitzGerald, programme director of Mindful Fashion. “Each T-shirt is made from organic cotton grown and produced in a fully certified supply chain. They are manufactured, printed, and finished in New Zealand, with a pathway to be recycled back into new fibre at the end of their life once they are no longer repairable or wearable.” Proceeds from the T-shirts will go towards supporting sustainable fashion development in New Zealand. The T-shirts are available from mindfulfashion.co.nz and through the designers’ websites.

ALL EARS

Perfect jewels are the finishing touch to any party-ready look, and Zoe & Morgan brings to life the excitement of getting ready for a special occasion in its latest collection: Ear Party. Designed to be both fun and timeless, you can opt for your favourite style or embrace the playful side of the collection by mixing, matching, and layering as many pieces as you like to create your own one-of-a-kind look.

LOVES

A R M C A N DY Made from monogram-embossed puffy lambskin, Louis Vuitton’s latest ‘it’ bag — Coussin — steals the show as far as covetable arm candy is concerned this season. Designed by artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière, the aptly named pillow-like Coussin bag explores the space between the feminine and masculine. Wear it cross-body, as a chain baguette, or carried under the arm as a clutch.

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I

PUT

T

A

NG ON I R

Gucci ‘Double G’ key ring with crystals, $740

Dior ring, $POA

Partridge Jewellery ‘Princess Flower’ mother-ofpearl double ring, $4075

MAGGIE FOREVER

Editor’s PICK

SUNSHINE IN A BOTTLE Spring may be many months away, but with a mesmerising spritz of one of the cheerful fragrances from Jo Malone London’s Blossoms collection, your senses will be none the wiser. Two much-loved Jo Malone London favourites — luminous Frangipani Flower and sparkling Nashi Blossom — return to the fold in joyful new bottles. The delightful olfactory duo are joined by two newcomers that celebrate the unique beauty of the hibiscus flower: Yellow Hibiscus Cologne and the fragrance house’s very first Blossom Cologne Intense, Red Hibiscus Cologne Intense. Fragrance fanatics will be delighted as a new Solid Scent Duo of Nectarine Blossom & Honey and Orange Blossom packaged up in a vibrant covetable pouch join the collection too. Plus, there’s a very special limited-edition Silk Blossom diffuser so you can bring the joy of Blossoms into any room. 74

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After a tumultuous year that many of us would rather forget — also known as 2020 — Maggie Marilyn’s addition to the Forever capsule evokes all the optimism we need right now. Explaining the inspiration behind her collection — the emotive words of the likes of poets Rupi Kaur and Walt Whitman — designer and founder Maggie Hewitt says: “Poetry evokes a particular mood — just like fashion does — and when I felt heartbroken in 2020, poetry was a way for me to access hope. To search for the best version of myself. I hope Maggie Marilyn clothes can do the same for those who wear them.” And true to Maggie Marilyn’s sustainably minded philosophy, each is crafted from traceable and organic or repurposed fibres and made right here in New Zealand, in limited runs.


T R ENDING Bottega Veneta drawstring triangle bag, $2515 from Matches Fashion

e Lo

w

Pu e‘

z zl e

’ b a g , $ 1 7 2 0 f ro m N e t -a -

Po

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BLOCK PARTY

Gucci ‘GG Marmont’ super mini bag, $1750 Deadly Ponies ‘Mr Minimese’ bag, $429

S A I L A W AY A handful of dainty and delightful pieces are introduced to the Karen Walker Jewellery family this month with a new collection, The Navigator. Familiar rope motifs are the star of the collection, with knotted bows adorned with the most delicate of pearls featuring on rings, necklaces, and sleeper earrings. The signature Karen Walker arrowhead gets reimagined too with the new Albert chain–esque T-bar necklaces and earrings.

LOUNGING AROUND

Over the last year, we’ve grown rather fond of luxurious loungewear that blurs the boundaries between on- and off-duty attire. JH Lounge by Juliette Hogan features breathtaking pieces made from a clever blend of cotton and sustainable cashmere that feels divine on the skin. The only problem is that they feel and look so good, you’ll never want to get changed out of these luxe separates.

N E W A R R I VA L If it’s a touch of pared-back elegance or contemporary tailoring that you’re in need of to complete your autumn wardrobe, you’re in luck. Australian designer Anna Quan’s latest musthave collection lands at Father Rabbit Select in April. A timeless colour palette of soft neutrals feature alongside exuberant pops of mint green and sunshine yellow that are guaranteed to brighten up dull and dreary days.

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Wyn n H am

538

ST YLE

lyn ‘Loop’ la

e n’ shir t, $

Deadly Ponies ‘Ripple’ mini bag, $399

Pa ris G eo

ye re d knit to

rgia ‘S ate

Zoe & Morgan ‘Three Graces’ studs, $700 (sold as single studs)

p, $450

Louis Vuitton sunglasses, $1480

ri d

$9

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Je

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y’ P u rit

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Camilla and Marc ‘Marley’ trench coat, $1020

Moochi ‘Coach’ jacket, $449.99

rin

Get the Look

A new adventure awaits you. Brighten the

long road ahead with vibrant pops of colour, smooth textures, and look-at-me prints. Louis V

uit ton s

c ar f, P O A

M i Pi a ci ‘ M a rib el ’ bo

ot s , $36

0

Zimmermann ‘Rhythm’ jewelled silk-blend mini dress, $2442 from Moda Operandi

COS heavy-knit puff-sleeve cardigan, $145

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T R ENDING

PERFECT HARMONY

LOVES

Practicality and style collide in Mi Piaci’s autumn/winter collection, In Harmony. Design and form are at the heart of the collection, which features premium leathers, elevated hardware, on-trend heel detail, and unexpected textures. These sit easily alongside faithful friends interpreted in exciting new ways, crafted by Mi Piaci’s team of inspired designers. Mi Piaci AW21 In Harmony: a curated and considered collection by New Zealand women, for all women.

CHAIN REACTION

Bulgari fans rejoice: the inimitable Serpenti Forever handbag has been reimagined just in time to fulfil your autumn arm-candy wish list. Continuing the house’s chain-motif evolution, the new addition — the Maxi Chain — features the chain detailing we know and love with a bolder look. And it wouldn’t be Bulgari without a nod to the house’s archives. Drawing inspiration from Bulgari’s heritage watch from the ’60s, the iconic Serpenti head has been reinvented for the new Serpenti Forever too. So, if you haven’t already made your way to Bulgari’s one-and-only local boutique — located on Queen Street in Auckland — may we suggest you get yourself there, stat.

HELLO, HERMÈS! Come May, we’ll be running — not walking — into Smith & Caughey’s Queen Street, as a highly anticipated French import touches down on Kiwi soil. Much to our delight, the department store is set to become the New Zealand home of Hermès Make-Up. The adored iconic brand will launch locally with an array of sought-after lipsticks. With satin and matte formulas and lip balms in easy-to-wear shades, it’s bound to be love at first sight. And yes, each lipstick comes in Hermès’ famous vibrant orange packaging. FQ.CO.NZ

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T R EN D I N G

THE CHANGING FAC E O F FA S H I O N How far has fashion come and how far does it still have to go to reflect the diversity and uniqueness of humankind? Angela Bevan reflects on recent milestones and examines the role we can all play in making fashion a more inclusive industry. WORDS ANGELA BEVAN

A

s I write this, Instagram is awash

And therein lies the fairly heavy responsibility

with images from French fashion favourite Jacquemus’s latest campaign,

that’s placed on a fickle industry: model casting is a loaded privilege, because to choose a face is to choose

L’Amour. Styled by super talented Kiwi

a message.

Zoey Radford Scott, the models are photographed as couples: different gender pairings, different skin tones and ethnicities, different body shapes. As far as diversity goes, many would say that Jacquemus is one of the international brands paving the way for a more inclusive future of fashion. I’m 43 years old. I remember when Kate Moss was invented and diversity meant having a gaunt, grimy white girl instead of a healthy shiny one — people thought that was diverse casting. The fact that the girl was still cis-gendered; able-bodied; young; and, of course, white, was a given. Right now, today, looking at Jacquemus’s campaign images, it’s easy to feel pretty good about how far things have come.

CHALLENGING THE NORM Still, we have seen some drastic changes to an industry that, despite being full of visionaries, is marred by the same norms that many other sectors are rotten with. Systemic racial bias and harmful body-type beliefs don’t just affect the fashion world — they are what it’s built on, and they have held power since the birth of modelling in Paris in the 19th century. Much of the change has come appallingly, embarrassingly late: in the US, underage models were only given child protection laws (as all underage actors get) in 2013, and BMI minimums (body mass index, to ensure healthy weight) were only introduced in France in 2015 (with some saying that

And yet. Another bright Kiwi creative has commented under the Jacquemus social imagery, pointing out — and he’s right — that within today’s appreciation of diversity, there is still very little variation in the types of male bodies we are shown. “I think it’s a bit shit that all the guys cast are muscular,” comments designer Glen Prentice. “The women are varied and represent a spectrum of body types — the guys are all jacked.” Yes, we are seeing more and more diversity in ethnicity, but we only really see a limited range in male body size. In other words, plus-size men isn’t really a thing in modelling — or, if it is, it’s certainly not celebrated in the same way that plus-size women are beginning to be, and, when we think about diverse casting, we largely ignore bigger men. Should plus-size male models be a thing? Probably. Is this going to be an article campaigning for plus-size men? No. But it is incredible to me, thanks to my young friend, to be shown that there are more. More human

these are still largely ignored or manipulated anyway). But it’s progress — and happily, The Fashion Spot’s Diversity Report showed that New York’s spring 2020 runway was the most racially diverse fashion week yet. The narrative has shifted, largely thanks, I believe, to pressure from a new generation, who are not only closing in but pushing past us on the shifts that we have been struggling with for generations. The Gen Z creative, tomorrow’s Jacquemus, is way ahead of us in their instinctual world view, and they are impatient for the establishment to catch up. We are at a different point — one that’s swathed in modern anxiety, and this generation’s blanket intolerance for outdated practice and poor excuses means that old standards are fast becoming irrelevant. My newest agency business partner, Franca, is 23 and shares: “I think that my peers and community are hungry to realise our dreams and add to the aesthetic industry, but excuses and poor practices such as

beings who have never, and possibly will never, ‘see themselves’ in an image that says that it’s good to look like you.

asking models to work for free (which is a common occurrence) feels like a manipulation of this hunger. I like

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LAYER UP

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

Your wardrobe isn’t the only thing that you should be layering up to keep autumn at bay. As the season changes, bringing with it a drop in temperature and humidity, autumn can begin to show on our skin. Once well-hydrated complexions can quickly become lacklustre and dehydrated. Fortunately, there’s plenty that you can do to remedy parched, unhappy skin. All it takes is a little skincare know-how. Consider switching out go-to lightweight moisturisers for richer formulas with a little more grunt. Turn to page 152 to find out how to create the ultimate wardrobe of moisturisers that will keep skin hydrated, nourished, and radiant 365 days a year, no matter the season.

BEAUTY FQ.CO.NZ

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Untamed Beauty Let the change of season be your beauty muse. A luminous complexion is the canvas for a hint of gloss, glitter, and an understated pop of lip and cheek colour in autumnal hues. Team with wind-swept tresses and the boldest of brows and you’re all set to turn heads. PHOTOGRAPHY JENNA SMITH HAIR & MAKE-UP LEISA WELCH FOR BEAUTY CITIZEN CREATIVE DIRECTION OLIVIA O’DRISCOLL FOR BEAUTY CITIZEN STYLING VICTORIA HARVEY

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B EAU T Y

GLOW ALL OUT When your skin looks this luminous, all you need is the subtlest hint of lip colour. Try: Chanel Rouge Coco Bloom in Sunlight, $64. Laing ‘Maggie’ mohair funnel-neck jumper, $479.

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“I

don’t want people to take off my jewellery,” Tashjian Barklie says,

twirling her fingers around a fine gold T-bar teardrop-pendant chain. The necklace itself is a design from

look like and what it should represent. “We don’t have to take it [jewellery] so seriously,” Barklie says confidently. “The seriousness isn’t in the design; it’s [in] the meaning of it.” She references Cartier in the

Barklie’s first collection from her eponymous brand Tashji, which launched in December

20th Century, and poet Paul Clausel’s literary depiction of jewellery as a declaration of faith,

last year. Once an aspiring journalist, Barklie

“not only because the creation of its sublime materials is shrouded in mystery, but also

turned to the age-old trade of goldsmithing in 2017, studying full-time for two years before landing a rare opportunity in the workshop of a local family-run Auckland jewellery

because we offer jewellery and accept it out of love,” he writes. That love, and sentimentality too, plays a big

business, where she is an in-house jeweller by day, before retreating to her own studio,

role in driving Barklie to expand her range and connect with a wider audience. Goldsmiths

designing and crafting Tashji by night. The sudden shift in career for Barklie

have the pleasure — unlike other craftspeople in neighbouring industries — of creating in

wasn’t as initially obvious as she thought.

a whole other dimension. “You get people

After graduate internships at local fashion and lifestyle publications and years-long stints in hospitality and retail management, there was one thing that Barklie remained captivated by: jewellery. At the time, Barklie didn’t even think it was a viable career path. “One day, I was on the bus and I was thinking to myself, Can you even learn how to make jewellery here [in Aotearoa]?

MODERN HEIRLOOMS Goldsmith Tashjian Barklie shares her philosophy on jewellery design, and why

sentiment and romance will always transcend beyond a simple piece of silver or gold. WORDS COURTNEY JOE 82

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PHOTOGRAPHY KATE BATTERSBY, HANNAH JENSEN

And then — I’m all about the universe sending us signs — I saw this billboard in Kingsland for a jewellery course.” A little more research showed that Barklie was eligible for a student loan and, “I quit my job. On the same day,” she recalls. Fast forward four years to the launch of her own brand, and Barklie is still as enthralled by metals and jewels. She later points out that her fine gold chain — the one that no one should ever need to take off — is called the ‘Ātahu Necklace’, with ‘ātahu’ meaning ‘charm’ and ‘fascination’ in Māori. And it’s that fascination, Barklie explains, that empowered her to forge a new path in jewellery, disrupting an old-school goldsmith mentality of what traditional jewellery should


B EAU T Y

GLOSS OVER Can’t decide whether you want a lipstick or a gloss? Opt for the best of both worlds, when in doubt try Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint in Bare Nude, $65. Elle + Riley ‘Michaela’ short sleeve cashmere tee, $689, high waisted cashmere brief, $198, and bed socks, $99 Hat stylist’s own.

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T RE ND I N G

Ask Courtney

Not quite sure what to wear in between seasons? Here’s how to outsmart the weather and dress for all occasions according to FQ creative director Courtney Joe.

T

he weather in Aotearoa is unpredictable at the best of times, making getting dressed in the morning a little tricky. During autumn, it’s often four seasons in one day, and, in the south, the temperature can

THE BLAZER Your secondary

quickly plummet in the evening. Much like the weather, the art of trans-

makes for a more sustainable industry and conscious shoppers, so it’s never been easier to shop more mindfully, whatever the weather. Last year, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, renounced traditional seasonal collections, defending his choice by simply stating that “clothes should have a longer life than that which these words attribute to them”. Back home, Maggie Marilyn followed suit, with the expansion of its evergreen essentials range, Somewhere, and introduced Forever — considered capsules of seasonless pieces produced in limited runs. Smaller, local fashion brands like Mina have become nimble in their approach to trans-seasonal fashion, quickly adapting from seasonal drops to limited capsules dropped more frequently throughout the year. In short, curating a timeless trans-seasonal wardrobe has never been easier. For a start, consider these essentials here, and you’ll be well on your way to forming the perfect foundation on which to build your time-proof and weatherproof wardrobe. And while your humble handbag might take the award for the accessory you never leave home without, for autumn’s sake, get yourself a Blunt umbrella. You will not regret it.

layer — and the staple piece to take your

COS blazer, $330, trousers, $220 and pumps, $225

seasonal dressing can be tricky to get a handle on. Fortunately for us, the fashion industry has grasped onto the notion that trans-seasonal dressing

look from casual to sophisticated. Opt for natural woven fibres such as wool, which can prove breathable in the heat yet provide a warm outer shell when the air turns cool. Try COS’s wide selection of blazers, from fitted to boyfriend — you’ll no doubt find a cut that works for you and your wallet.

THE CLASSIC FLAT

THE STRAIGHT-LEG JEAN

$1,46 G ucci leath e r lug sole ‘ H orse bit ’ loafe r,

0

95

Calvin Klein ‘High Rise Straight Ankle’ jeans, $187

of its most iconic shoe, or visit Mi Piaci for a more walletfriendly, yet still 100 per cent leather, alternative.

sic Tre nch’, $ 3

Hej Hej ‘Square Peg’ knit, $200

THE LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT For the layer that sits closest to your body, invest in 100 per cent pure cotton or wool. Look to brands that are experts in layering, such as Standard Issue and Hej Hej, for options in every cut — short sleeve, long sleeve, singlets, and more — and every weight imaginable. 84

When a heel or sandal feels a little too impractical, and a boot far too snug, the classic flat is your season-round answer. Follow Gucci’s seasonless lead and invest in a new iteration

Ka ren Wa lker ‘Clas

For a timeless denim cut, look no further than Calvin Klein. For fans of the ultra-high-rise, opt for the ‘High Rise Straight Ankle’ jeans, a modern take on the brand’s archival 1978 jean, and for the mid-rise fans — and those who like a little extra lift in the back — the ‘CKJ 031 Straight Leg MidRise’ jeans will be your new best friend.

FQ.CO.NZ

THE TRENCH COAT The trustworthy trench coat could be called one of fashion’s earliest attempts at purposeful, trans-seasonal design. Light enough to layer and often water repellent, it’s the one outer-shell essential you need. Do no wrong with Karen Walker’s chic and classic showerproof trench. Even better, it’s from the brand’s seasonless core range, which means that you’ll never feel out of vogue. For more trench coat inspiration, see page 46.


B E AUT Y

Dior Forever Skin Veil, $92

BE AU TY

L’Oréal Paris Paradise Lash Mascara, $28

Milk Makeup Mini Lip + Cheek in Quirk, $32 from Sephora

YSL Touche Éclat Le Teint, $102

Dior Rouge Contour Lip Pencil in Nude Look, $50

Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Modern Glamour, $124

Get the Look Sun-kissed checks, almost-nude lips, and voluminous lashes are all you need to

Chanel Rouge Coco Bloom in Opportunity, $64

complement a luminous complexion.

a

rs

$6

N

4

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette — Volume II, $109 from Mecca

Bobbi Brown Perfectly Defined Long Wear Brow Pencil, $72

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Su

nk

is se

d B ro n zi

r ng C

ea

m

,

Clinique Even Better All-Over Concealer + Eraser, $55

Tom Ford Lip Colour in Scarlet Rouge, $90


FOR ALL THE LATEST FASHION NEWS

& a glimpse behind the scenes …

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @FASHIONQUARTERLY


CHECK IT OUT Dusk in autumn calls for an extra layer or two, and there’s no better time than now to reach classic plaid.

PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE ROOKE STYLING COURTNEY JOE

Twenty-Seven Names ‘Darkness’ coat, $680. Camilla and Marc ‘Mia’ dress, $660. Moochi ‘West’ hat, $99.99. Zara belt, $55.90. Zoe & Morgan ‘Xanadu’ necklace, $450. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Cherry’ ring, $349, ‘Serge’ ring, $349, and ‘Samara’ ring, $379.

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Once Upon a Time in the West

Reap the seeds that you sow this season by building a resilient

wardrobe in nature’s finest palette. PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE ROOKE STYLING COURTNEY JOE

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ST YLE Olivia ‘Timeless’ button blouse, $249. Mahsa ‘Gentleman’ waistcoat, $530. COS skirt, $160. Moochi ‘West’ hat, $99.99. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Mermaid’ earrings, $949, and ‘Samara’ ring, $379.

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Sylvester quilted parka, $399. Florence & Fortitude ‘Eleanor’ top, $310. Commoners cashmere polo knit, $399. Glassons organic cord skirt, $39.99. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ earrings, $450 (launching late April). Opposite: Moochi ‘Liberal’ sweater, $349.99. Florence & Fortitude ‘Charlotte’ dress, $1250. Zara boots, $119. Zoe & Morgan ‘Mutiara’ earrings, $520 (launching late April).

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FQ X FQLA X M XX ER X

A Moisturiser for Every Moment Here’s how to curate the ultimate moisturiser wardrobe for all your skin’s needs with La Mer’s luxurious, hydrating formulas.

I

f you’ve ever reached for your go-to

with serious hydration without weighing it

moisturiser and wondered why it’s not working as well as it used to, it’s probably

down. It’s the perfect La Mer moisturising formula for those days when skin feels

THE MOISTURIZING SOFT LOTION La Mer takes an innovative approach to

because your skin is constantly changing. Very few of us are blessed with ‘normal’ skin

dehydrated and needs a little extra hydration.

skin hydration with Soft Lotion Capsules in The Moisturizing Soft Lotion ($455 for

365 years a day. In fact, it’s common for skin

CRÈME DE LA MER

50ml). La Mer has successfully suspended

to change from summer to winter, day to day, or even from morning to evening. Because

Crème de la Mer (from $150 for 15ml), the original moisturiser in La Mer’s moisturiser

its transformative Miracle Broth in capsule form to keep the star ingredient

our skin changes as our hormones, lifestyle,

collection, has remained a bestseller over

as active as possible until it is applied. The

and seasons change, a one-moisturiser-fitsevery-day-of-the-year approach is unlikely to address our ever-evolving skin concerns. Instead, to keep our complexions luminous and well-hydrated and healthy, we need a tailored approach to our skin’s diverse needs. La Mer’s luxurious collection of moisturisers has been created with this in mind. At the heart of the five formulas is Miracle Broth — La Mer’s legendary rejuvenating elixir — yet each moisturiser addresses specific concerns. With a formula for every day, season, and skin type, think of La Mer’s moisturisers as your dream ‘wardrobe’ for your skin.

the years for good reason. Cherished for its

weightless formula immediately melts into skin, releasing Miracle Broth and Lime Tea Concentrate, quickly infusing skin with hydration for right-around-theclock radiance.

THE LA MER LINE-UP THE MOISTURIZING SOFT CREAM Touted as the softest texture La Mer has ever formulated, The Moisturizing Soft Cream (from $150 for 15ml) harnesses the power of super-sumptuous moisturising spheres that penetrate the skin almost instantly to soothe and provide it with rejuvenating moisture. Don’t be deceived by its lightweight formula: The Moisturizing Soft Cream not only deeply moisturises skin, but a host of nourishing ingredients also help to minimise the signs of ageing while boosting your complexion’s radiance.

luxurious, rich texture, Crème de la Mer is renowned for its soothing, moisturising, and healing properties derived from Miracle Broth. When to wear it: A number of reasons can leave skin feeling more parched than normal. Some of the frequent culprits include chilly weather, a change in diet, or skimping on your skincare routine. Whatever the reason, La Mer’s iconic Crème de la Mer makes dehydrated skin a thing of the past. Those who suffer from dry skin will want to ensure that

When to wear it: Neither too rich nor too light, The Moisturizing Soft Lotion is ideal for when your skin feels well balanced. Think of this formula as the one in your La Mer moisturiser wardrobe that you reach for when skin is neither dehydrated nor oily, but still in need of a radiance-enhancing moisturiser.

Crème de la Mer has a prime position in their moisturiser wardrobe all-year-round.

THE MOISTURIZING MATTE LOTION

THE MOISTURIZING COOL GEL CREAM Revolutionary Micro Oil Gel Cream Capsule technology is at the heart of The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream (from $150 for 15ml). Created for combination and oily skin, the capsules in this La Mer formula provide nourishing moisture while leaving skin cooled, calmed, and revitalised. Lime Tea’s addition strengthens the skin’s barrier, protecting it from stress and pollution, so skin stays radiant and hydrated all day long.

When to wear it: Whether it’s a drop in humidity — hello, autumn — or a change

When to wear it: Humidity, hormones, diet, and over-cleansing can leave skin feeling oily. The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream is

in lifestyle that’s left your combination skin feeling a little drier than normal, The Moisturizing Soft Cream enriches skin

the formula you need in your moisturising wardrobe to soothe and hydrate combinationto-oily skin quickly.

If you’re considering skimping on moisturiser because your skin has a day when it’s a little oilier than normal, think again. The Moisturizing Matte Lotion by La Mer ($455 for 50ml) has been created to hydrate skin while leaving it with a refined matte finish that minimises unwanted shine. Miracle Broth delivers the same transformative skin-healing properties while reducing the appearance of pores and balancing your complexion, leaving skin looking healthy and vibrant. When to wear it: Thanks to diet, hormones, and other lifestyle factors, we can all have days — or longer stretches of time — when our skin is oilier than we would like it to be. La Mer is available at Smith & Caughey’s, David Jones, selected Mecca boutiques and online at meccabeauty.co.nz.

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ST YLE Karen Walker ‘Lea’ blouse, $245. Penny Sage ‘Noomi’ cords, $375. Brixton ‘Jo Rancher’ hat, $99. Zoe & Morgan ‘Alor’ hoops, $315, ‘Komodo’ signet ring (left), $340, ‘Seaweed’ ring (top right), $370 (launching late April), and ‘Natalya’ ring (bottom right), $310. Belt stylist’s own. Opposite: Viktoria & Woods ‘Taurus’ cardi, $329 from Superette. Maggie Marilyn ‘Cold Shoulder’ dress, $695. Mi Piaci ‘Daphne’ boot, $400. Simon De Winter socks, $9.99 from Farmers. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Sparkle’ earrings, $539, and ‘Samara’ ring, $379.

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Camilla and Marc ‘Tarantino’ trench, $900. Karen Walker ‘Captain’s Shawl’ collar sweater, $245. Salasai ‘Love & Thorns’ skirt, $360. Karen Walker ‘NYX Chelsea’ boots, $495. Simon De Winter socks, $9.99 from Farmers. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ earrings, $450 (launching late April). Opposite: Kate Sylvester ‘Charlotte’ dress, $549. Brixton ‘Jo Rancher’ hat, $99. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ earrings, $450 (launching late April). Jasmin Sparrow ‘Samara’ ring, $379.


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B E AUT Y

Anna Ross MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP

On her return to New Zealand, the clean beauty pioneer and founder

of Kester Black shares her vision for a cleaner, greener future of beauty. MOVING HOME IN AUGUST LAST YEAR WAS A PRETTY EASY DECISION TO MAKE. With Covid having a huge impact in Australia, New Zealand became more and more of a lure for us. It’s such a safe haven, and we felt lucky to be able to choose Wanaka as our new home and business base. Wanaka is a dream. It has given me time and space to think, and a whole new

Kester Black’s new products and names has purely come from being home and being immersed in new surroundings. It’s a never-ending kaleidoscope of colour and light that makes you see things differently every single day, and I am excited about what that means for Kester Black. New Zealand is a bit synonymous with the colour green, and once I’d settled back in, I was reminded of just how many shades of green there are, which made me start thinking about when I was little. Like scratch-and-sniff stickers were prized possessions — hence ‘Another Pickle’ — and summers were spent running around with these oversized water pistols — Super Soakers — camping in the backyard, and drenching the holidays away.

MY LOVE FOR AND BELIEF IN ETHICAL BEAUTY GOES WAY BEYOND KESTER BLACK. I am single-minded when it comes to it being time for all beauty brands to focus on becoming ethical. Kester Black is initiating a new code of ethics for cosmetics that other brands can follow. For beauty brands wanting to become ethical, creating a brand positioning statement is the first step. It’s easy to Kester Black Self Love Oil, $32

I’M ALREADY FUELLED WITH NEW IDEAS, UNENCUMBERED BY THE DISTRACTIONS OF THE RAT RACE. The inspiration for

Kester Black First Date Lipstick, $45

tapestry to fuel my creativity. Wanaka is a great muse, and we’re super happy to be home.

in being ethical, sustainable, and delivering social justice. These shouldn’t be the merely glib marketing buzzwords. I believe in beauty with a higher purpose. I call Kester Black a good-weird kind of beauty company, and I think that has helped to define how I feel about the beauty category. I’m uncompromising about being certified carbon neutral, donating two per cent of all revenue to social causes, [and] making vegan and sustainable products that are classy with a conscience. That’s what fires and fuels me.

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Kester Black Another Pickle Nail Polish, $26

Kester Black Clean Gene Nail Polish, $26

BEAUTY TO ME MEANS HEALTH AND HAPPINESS. For me, modern beauty is rooted

know exactly how to formulate products and choose to package once you know what you stand for. Are you vegan? Or natural? Those two values can be very opposing, which is why you don’t see many ethical colour cosmetics brands on the market.

WHEN IT COMES TO NAILS, PREPARATION IS KEY. A clean, dry base will make your manicure last three to four days longer. And never, ever skip the base and topcoat! They’re just as important as the colour of your manicure. It’s like eating a sandwich without the bread.

DON’T SKIP THE SPF! For the past four years, I have been working closely with a dermatologist to formulate functional skincare products. Before I met her, I had never really understood the benefits of wearing sunscreen (but that’s the beauty when you are under 30, I guess). She taught me to take care of my skin — preventative care is so much better and longer-lasting than trying to repair it after the fact.


ST YLE Maggie Marilyn ‘Nothing Hurts Like a Broken Heart’ shirt, $650. COS pants, $165. Selke leather hat, $149 from Hattitude. Sebago ‘Seneca’ boat shoes, $389.99. Simon De Winter socks, $9.99 from Farmers. Hallensteins ‘Lost Monarchy’ braces, $19.99. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ earrings, $450 (launching late April). Jasmin Sparrow ‘Samara’ ring, $379. Backpack stylist’s own.


FQ X AVÈN E

THE SECRET TO CARING FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

For hundreds of years, people from around the world have sought out the healing properties Avène’s thermal water. Here’s how to work the French skincare brand into your daily routine.

N

estled in the heart of southern France in the lush

star ingredient. The water, drawn directly from the healing spring, is cherished for

Haut-Languedoc Regional Nature Park is the quaint

its unique composition, which soothes, softens, and renews skin. In fact, with over

STAR OF THE SHOW

village of Avène. For two centuries now,

150 clinical studies and publications in

people have flocked from around the globe to discover Avène’s natural spring:

scientific journals, Avène Thermal Spring Water has been approved and recommended

Sainte Odile — and, given its remarkable

by dermatologists worldwide for sensitive,

healing properties, but the Thermal

skin-healing properties, it’s no surprise. Over the last 250 years, the thermal spring water and Avène’s hydrotherapy centre have become internationally renowned for their ability to treat a wide range of hardto-treat dermatological conditions. While Avène’s hydrotherapy centre has expanded significantly and continues to attract guests from all over the world, today, you no longer have to travel to the French village to experience the benefits of Sainte Odile. Thanks to Avène skincare, the prized, rejuvenating water from the healing spring is available in a wide array of skincare offerings:

hypersensitive, and allergy-prone skin.

Spring Water Spray has also become known for its myriad uses. There’s really not a lot that the multitasking beauty essential can’t do. Avène Thermal Spring Water Spray can be used for everything from removing make-up to calming skin redness after exercise, soothing shaving rash, and relieving sunburn.

from the iconic Avène Thermale Spring Water spray to youth-restoring moisturisers and serums.

THE AVÈNE DIFFERENCE Thanks to various factors — our busy lifestyles, modern diets, the environment, and pollution, to name a few — sensitive and reactive skin have become common problems. Anyone with sensitive skin will understand that it can be difficult to find skincare products that agree with sensitive skin and also soothe and strengthen the skin’s barrier. Fortunately, an in-depth understanding and thorough approach to sensitive skin are at the heart of Avène’s skincare philosophy. Each Avène product — whether it be for acne-prone skin, redness, hydration, or fighting the signs of ageing — has the rejuvenating Avène Thermal Spring Water as a

Discover the extensive Avène range in-store in pharmacies and explore Avène’s recommended skincare routines for all skin types online at eau-thermaleavene.co.nz

Not only does Avène Thermal Spring Water possess unique skin-

SENSITIVE SKIN 101 We all have unique skin concerns, and sensitive skin is no exception. Sensitive skin can present in various ways, and while some might suffer from chronic sensitive skin, sensitive skin can also be something others suffer from periodically. According to Avène, naturally sensitive skin tends to be thin, is often dry, and can appear scaly and be prone to redness. In contrast, reactionary sensitive skin — which most of us have probably experienced at one point or another — might rear its head after too much time in the sun or wind or when you use products that irritate your complexion. Other skin conditions, for example, dermatitis, rosacea, and acne, can also increase skin sensitivity. If you’re unsure whether your skin is sensitive or you’re just suffering from reactionary sensitivity, it always pays to check in with a dermatologist.

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Florence & Fortitude ‘Bartlett’ dress, $1090. Marle ‘Remi’ turtleneck, $280. Claudia Li giant shearling pillow bag, $1295. Kate Sylvester beret, $99. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Mermaid’ earrings, $949, and ‘Samara’ ring (bottom), $379. Zoe & Morgan ‘Seaweed’ ring (top), $370 (launching late April). Opposite: Mahsa ‘Joan’ dress, $1050. Brooke Barrett organza relaxed bow tie blouse, $650. Zara boots, $119. Zoe & Morgan ‘Mutiara’ earrings, $520, and ‘Komodo’ signet ring (left), $340 (launching late April). Jasmin Sparrow ‘Serge’ ring (right), $349.

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Maggie Marilyn ‘Gather Your Thoughts’ dress, $950. Penny Sage ‘Charlton’ trench, $860, and hat, $180. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Sparkle’ earrings, $539, ‘Serge’ ring (left), $349, and ‘Samara’ ring (middle), $379. Zoe & Morgan ‘Komodo’ signet ring (right), $340 (launching late April).

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WHITEWASHED, ELITIST, AND DRENCHED IN QANON

IS WELLNESS AS WE KNOW IT OVER? Just like Covid has made influencers and celebrities seem tone-deaf, so too has it impacted the wellness industry. Isabelle Truman investigates whether the products promising to make us well are actually doing the opposite. WORDS ISABELLE TRUMAN


O livia ‘Ariel ’ ch eck dress , $

2 29

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Deadly Ponies ‘Twister’ bag, $999

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Karen Walker Jewellery mini ‘Horseshoe’ studs, $379

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Get the Look Look to the crisp autumn leaves for inspiration — they may fall, but you’ll rise to great heights in this spectrum of earthy tones.

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Gucci ‘Horsebit 1955’ small bucket bag, $2640

Calvin Klein ‘Logo Jacquard Crossbody’ bag, $229

RM Williams ‘Marla’ shirt, $145

o l o r ‘ I vo r y R a n c h e r ’ h a t , $

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Dior belt, $1750

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$4

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by n o s ea s s i es. ts th l h p g a i st he m w i e n de to n c i n s a s cla ue je r l u b o old —y r g a n ipli 7 - ye r t 4 1 t no the f i e k — Ta PHO ling b TO G u RAP do H Y AP

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Florence & Fortitude ‘Florence’ jacket, $1400, and ‘Iain’ jeans, $650. Kathryn Wilson ‘Louise’ loafers, $329. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229. Olivia ‘Hexagon’ earrings, $49. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Cherry’ ring, $269.


Levi’s ‘Essential Western’ shirt, $109.90. Zara jeans, $75.90, and bag, $99. Isabella Anselmi ‘Neville’ boots, $349. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429, ‘Cherry’ ring (left), $265, and ‘Blue’ ring (right), $269. Opposite: Wynn Hamlyn ‘Key Hole’ blouse, $320. Workshop high-waist slim-fit jeans, $298. Deadly Ponies ‘Midi’ belt, $199. Kathryn Wilson ‘Wendy’ brogues, $329. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Scarf, stylist’s own.


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Florence & Fortitude ‘Louise’ shirt, $440. Kowtow ‘Tokyo’ jumpsuit, $399. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429, ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499, ‘Cherry’ ring (top left), $265, and ‘Blue’ ring (bottom left), $269. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (right), $319. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Chair by Dan Gosling and Ryan Buxeda. Opposite: Wynn Hamlyn ‘Panel’ denim shirt, $395. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229, and ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $429, ‘Cherry’ ring (top left), $269, and ‘Blue’ ring (top right), $265. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (bottom left), $319, and ‘Proteger’ ring (bottom right), $395.


Mina ‘Day’ shirt, $345. Penny Sage ‘Lyrical’ dress, $320. Kathryn Wilson ‘Wendy’ brogues, $329. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229, and ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (top), $319, and ‘Proteger’ ring (bottom), $359. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Opposite: Paloma Wool ‘Avril’ jacket, $329. Ksubi ‘Graduate’ midi skirt, $264.95. Deadly Ponies ‘Midi Python’ belt, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499.


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Georgia Fielding ‘Izzy’ jacket, $210. Ksubi ‘Relaxo’ shirt, $239.95. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229, and ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (top left), $319, ‘Claude’ ring (top right), $219, and ‘Proteger’ ring (bottom), $395. Opposite: Levi’s x Ganni ‘Trucker’ jacket, $690. Glassons ‘Warped Wash’ mini skirt, $39.99. Isabella Anselmi ‘Neville’ boots, $349. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429, and ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499.


Penny Sage ‘Sophy’ jumpsuit, $490. Isabella Anselmi ‘Neville’ boots, $349. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, ‘Cherry’ ring (left), $265, and ‘Blue’ ring (right), $269. Olivia ‘Chain Linked’ earrings, $45. Opposite: Levi’s ‘Romantic Biker’ jacket, $239.90. Ksubi ‘Kicker’ jeans, $284.94. Deadly Ponies wide belt, $199. Silk & Steel ‘Serpent of Strength’ earrings, $229, and ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $429. Meadowlark ‘Claude’ ring (top), $219, ‘Miro’ signet ring (bottom left), $319, and ‘Proteger’ ring (bottom right), $395.


PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

LIFE & CULTURE

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Totême ‘Army Denim’ jacket, $889, and ‘Original Denim’ jeans, $399 from Fabric. Sebago ‘Classic Dan’ loafers, $299.99 from Workshop. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429 and ‘Blue’ ring (top), $269. Meadowlark ‘Claude’ ring (middle), $219, and ‘Miro’ signet ring (bottom), $319. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers. Chair by Dan Gosling and Ryan Buxeda. Opposite: Mitchell & Ness ‘Lakers’ sweater, $109.90. Florence & Fortitude ‘Georgie’ skirt, $540. Kathryn Wilson ‘Shandre’ loafers, $259. Silk & Steel ‘Swallow of Hope’ earrings, $229. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499. Meadowlark ‘Claude’ ring (left), $219, and ‘Miro’ signet ring (right), $319. Lyric socks, $12.99 from Farmers.


Frame ‘Moto Zip Snap Front’ dress, $679 from Superette. Mi Piaci ‘Niki’ boots, $560. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Violet’ earrings, $429, ‘Blue’ ring (top), $269, and ‘Cherry’ ring (bottom), $265. Opposite: Levi’s ‘Essential Western’ shirt, $109.90. Zara jumpsuit, $99. Olivia ‘Chain Linked’ earrings, $45. Meadowlark ‘Miro’ signet ring (top), $319. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Moon’ bracelet, $499, ‘Blue’ ring (bottom left), $269, and ‘Cherry’ ring (bottom right), $265. Chair by Dan Gosling and Ryan Buxeda. Model: Brooklyn from Unique Model Management. Hair and make-up: Rae Sacha. Photography assistant: Jaycee Mentoor. Special thanks to Public Library Showroom.


ST YLE

C a lv

s, $720

Chloé ‘C’ mini bag, $2079 from Workshop

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Get the Look

Who says you can’t pair denim with denim? Layer up in the most indestructible of pure blue hues.

Cult Gaia ‘Tao Pearl’ denim mules, $933 from Farfetch

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Calvin Klein ‘Regular ’90s’ denim jacket, $229 Deadly Ponies ‘Midi Python’ belt, $229

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Harris Tapper ‘Etta’ coat, $1099. Loclaire ‘Sundae’ waistcoat, $329, and pant, $289. Mi Piaci ‘Ulla’ heel, $260. Auór ‘Sea Blue’ headscarf, $30. Paloma Wool ‘McGuire’ earrings, $129.


ST YLE

ON THE ROAD Buckle up! We’re hitting the road and taking a trip down memory lane — glitz and glamour included. PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN TILLEY STYLING TORI AMBLER

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ST YLE Kate Sylvester ‘Virginia’ dress, $499. Bess ‘Spotted Roar’ scarf, $240. Jasmin Sparrow ‘No.1’ ring (left), $299, and ‘Blue’ ring (right), $329. Opposite: Kate Sylvester ‘Frankie’ jacket, $899, and ‘Billy’ skirt, $699. Mi Piaci ‘Mariella’ boots, $380. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Valentina’ earrings, $399.

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ST YLE Aje ‘Efflorescent’ blouse, $375, and ‘Efflorescent’ skirt, $455. Common People ‘Saddle’ bag, $490. Auór ‘Valentina’ sunglasses, $355. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Cherry’ earrings, $349, ‘Blue’ ring (top), $329, and ‘No.1’ ring (bottom), $299. Opposite: Harris Tapper ‘Willem’ jacket, $679, ‘Sofie’ top, $319, and skirt, $379. Marle ‘June’ tank, $220. Mi Piaci ‘Ulla’ heel, $260. Walmsley & Cole ‘Legs Eleven’ scarf, $250. Paloma Wool ‘McGuire’ earrings, $129.

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Aje ‘Salutation’ blazer, $525, and pants, $340. Walmsley & Cole ‘Chintzy’ scarf, $200. Paloma Wool ‘Scott’ belt, $141. Opposite: Juliette Hogan ‘Carly’ tunic, $379. Mi Piaci ‘Ulla’ heel, $260. Paloma Wool ‘Hannah’ earrings, $119. Barrette and scarf stylist’s own.

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LI F E & C ULT U RE

Off the

Beaten Track To conjure up their dream wedding at a rugged west coast beach town, digital content creator Rosalie and her husband Myles Taylor needed the help of their village. WORDS SARAH MURRAY

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hen digital content creator Rosalie and husband Myles Taylor revisited a bushwalk track in Piha, they knew it was the place for their wedding. “When we saw that clearing, we just instantly knew it was perfect,” says Rosalie. It was an unconventional choice. A clearing, about 1km into the walking track, nestled among the lush greenery of the

W

Caterers: Côte Catering Photographer: Sapphire Studios Groom’s wedding band: Campbell Taylor Bride’s wedding band: Naveya & Sloane

Piha bush. The secluded sanctuary, under a canopy of nikau palms, provided a space for their ceremony and became the starting point of their wedding day — a day where every aspect was handpicked to showcase their signature style. And like what was to follow, it was a vibe that was all their own. Think wooden signs with David Bowie quotes hanging from the trees (made by the groom’s dad), single white flowers temporarily planted in the soil alongside the aisle, and an intertwining driftwood arch where they exchanged vows. Wearing a timeless and chic low-back gown from Hera Couture and KHYA x Alias Mae heels (which were just the right height and width for the uneven terrain), Rosalie had a lengthy walk to the makeshift altar. “It was so beautiful but it did mean that the

Flowers: Ruth Fiona Floral Dress: Hera Couture

was so nervous that she whispered, “Am I allowed to hold your hand?” “He was like, ‘Of course you can’,” she says, smiling as she retells the story. “And in that moment, I thought, I’m getting married. That moment right there for me, it was such a high.” Piha was the obvious choice for the nuptials. The west coast beach with its black sand and rugged topography has always held a special place in their hearts — Myles’s family have a bach there that has been in the family for generations, and the pair got

while. Rosalie immediately started looking at certain concepts for the wedding, but she soon realised that wasn’t the best idea. “We started really hot. I feel like that might have been a mistake. Two years is a long time and you’re all over Instagram and looking at new trends,” she says. “So we stopped for at least eight months. We decided to start planning our wedding a year in advance. I’m really happy we did that, because my vision changed.” The end result? A festival chic wedding with a relaxed retro vibe. After the ceremony, 160

aisle was very long — it was about a 15-minute walk — so it was pretty crazy,” she says. When she eventually made it to Myles, she

engaged on the iconic landmark Lion Rock. The couple decided on a long engagement, as they liked the idea of having ‘a fiancé’ for a

guests were invited back to the family bach where two white marquees were erected. There was a larger one in the front yard filled

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with lounge suites, bar leaners, and DJs, and a smaller one at the back of the property that served as a quiet zone for people who wanted a coffee or a rest. What made the marquees so unique were the handmade chandeliers crafted out of dried hydrangeas that hung from the ceilings. Although the couple used a local florist, it was both of their mothers who took it upon themselves to dry the hydrangeas, which, along with lanterns, also adorned trees. “Our mums wanted to do the hydrangeas so we were like, ‘Go for it’. They did so many — it was really cool. We asked if we could take some from people’s houses, and we bought some too, but quite a few were wild from the roadside.” The reception playfully mixed traditional wedding formalities, such as speeches and a cake, with other aspects the couple wanted. There were several DJs playing loud music throughout the evening, vodka shots, and a food truck serving poke bowls. With no seating plan or traditional sit-down dinner, Rosalie had put together crates filled with a picnic blanket and a candle, so, when dinner was served, everyone gathered into groups, laid down their blanket, flipped their crate upside down to use as a table, and put their candle on it. “I wanted people to be doing shots at the bar and walking around in bare feet, but I also wanted the formalities of a normal wedding,” says Rosalie. “I guess that gave it more of that festival vibe, which was exactly what we wanted.” The set up came naturally to Myles, who is not only the brand manager for Phoenix Organics but also a DJ and party

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Maggie Marilyn ‘Coco’s Cantina’ shirt, $595. Kate Sylvester ‘Billy’ skirt, $699. Auór ‘Paloma’ sunglasses, $350. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Treasure’ earrings, $649, and ‘No.1’ bangle, $349.

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Kate Sylvester ‘Jo’ dress, $469. Jasmin Sparrow beaded cap, POA. Mi Piaci ‘Ulla’ heel, $260. Auór ‘Paloma’ sunglasses, $350. Opposite: Maggie Marilyn ‘Coco’s Cantina’ shirt, $595. Kate Sylvester beret, $99. Jasmin Sparrow ‘Cherry’ earrings, $349, and ‘Wave’ necklace, $489. Model: Ashika from 62 Management. Hair and make-up: Natalie Dent. Photography assistant: James Black. Special thanks to Mount Albert Motor Lodge and Tom Mason.

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ST YLE

lyn ‘Loop’ la

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Deadly Ponies ‘Ripple’ mini bag, $399

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Zoe & Morgan ‘Three Graces’ studs, $700 (sold as single studs)

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Get the Look

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Zimmermann ‘Rhythm’ jewelled silk-blend mini dress, $2442 from Moda Operandi

COS heavy-knit puff-sleeve cardigan, $145

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LAYER UP

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

Your wardrobe isn’t the only thing that you should be layering up to keep autumn at bay. As the season changes, bringing with it a drop in temperature and humidity, autumn can begin to show on our skin. Once well-hydrated complexions can quickly become lacklustre and dehydrated. Fortunately, there’s plenty that you can do to remedy parched, unhappy skin. All it takes is a little skincare know-how. Consider switching out go-to lightweight moisturisers for richer formulas with a little more grunt. Turn to page 152 to find out how to create the ultimate wardrobe of moisturisers that will keep skin hydrated, nourished, and radiant 365 days a year, no matter the season.

BEAUTY FQ.CO.NZ

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Untamed Beauty Let the change of season be your beauty muse. A luminous complexion is the canvas for a hint of gloss, glitter, and an understated pop of lip and cheek colour in autumnal hues. Team with wind-swept tresses and the boldest of brows and you’re all set to turn heads. PHOTOGRAPHY JENNA SMITH HAIR & MAKE-UP LEISA WELCH FOR BEAUTY CITIZEN CREATIVE DIRECTION OLIVIA O’DRISCOLL FOR BEAUTY CITIZEN STYLING VICTORIA HARVEY

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B EAU T Y

GLOW ALL OUT When your skin looks this luminous, all you need is the subtlest hint of lip colour. Try: Chanel Rouge Coco Bloom in Sunlight, $64. Laing ‘Maggie’ mohair funnel-neck jumper, $479.

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LASH OUT Short on time? Lashings of L’Oréal Paris Paradise Lash Mascara, $28, creates a statement look without the fuss.

Laing ‘Mara’ cashmere funnelneck jumper, $365. Zambesi ‘Arctic’ hat, $295, and ‘Buffalo’ jacket, $875.

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B EAU T Y

SKIN IN THE GAME Forget about fancy foundation formulas. If you really want skin that glows, start with super-charged skincare. Try Murad Vita-C Triple Exfoliating Facial, $139. Elle + Riley ‘Lauren’ cashmere cable turtleneck, $1,095.

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SMOKE & MIRRORS Always on trend and guaranteed to turn heads, a smoky eye just looks better when created with Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Modern Glamour, $124. Sylvester ‘Fair Isle’ jumper, $399. Elle + Riley ‘Lauren’ cashmere cable turtleneck, $1,095, worn underneath.

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B EAU T Y

GLOSS OVER Can’t decide whether you want a lipstick or a gloss? Opt for the best of both worlds, when in doubt try Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint in Bare Nude, $65. Elle + Riley ‘Michaela’ short sleeve cashmere tee, $689, high waisted cashmere brief, $198, and bed socks, $99 Hat stylist’s own.

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SHIMMER & SHINE Glitter-dappled lids steal the show with a hint of Stila Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow, $41 from Mecca. Ruby ‘Rooney’ coat, $549, and ‘Matilda’ sweater, $249. Zambesi ‘Dolly’ vest, $595.

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B EAU T Y

GOLDEN HOUR If you thought bronzers were for summer only, think again. Get sun-kissed skin all autumn long with Nars Sunkissed Bronzing Cream, $64 from Mecca. Ruby ‘Otto’ turtleneck sweater, $299, worn over Laing cashmere funnel-neck sweater, $479.

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B E AUT Y

Dior Forever Skin Veil, $92

BE AU TY

L’Oréal Paris Paradise Lash Mascara, $28

Milk Makeup Mini Lip + Cheek in Quirk, $32 from Sephora

YSL Touche Éclat Le Teint, $102

Dior Rouge Contour Lip Pencil in Nude Look, $50

Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Modern Glamour, $124

Get the Look Sun-kissed checks, almost-nude lips, and voluminous lashes are all you need to

Chanel Rouge Coco Bloom in Opportunity, $64

complement a luminous complexion.

a

rs

$6

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4

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette — Volume II, $109 from Mecca

Bobbi Brown Perfectly Defined Long Wear Brow Pencil, $72

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Clinique Even Better All-Over Concealer + Eraser, $55

Tom Ford Lip Colour in Scarlet Rouge, $90


Smooths Texture Supports healthier-looking skin and a brighter, more even tone.

NEW

Available at: murad.co.nz, your local Caci Clinic or caci.co.nz


B E AUT Y

S U P E R F O U N D AT I O N If you want luminous skin, but the thought of a 15-step beauty routine makes you feel exhausted, you can relax: your dream foundation has just landed. Rather than mask and hide skin concerns without solving them, Clinique Even Better Clinical Serum Foundation SPF20, $75, is powered by a clever formula that enhances skin tone, radiance, and hydration. A game-changing combo of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C means that your skin glows even when it’s a foundation-free day.

Beauty Notebook

CLEAN SLATE

Luminous, healthy skin starts with a great cleanser. These three newcomers are guaranteed to get you on your way to the skin of your dreams, no matter what your skin concerns may be. If you’re tired of your go-to cleanser underperforming where make-up removal is concerned, shake up your routine with Sisley Triple-Oil Balm Make-Up Remover and Cleanser, $170. The balm-to-oil formula whisks away stubborn make-up while leaving skin nourished and radiant. Powered with magnesium, zinc, copper, and revitalising algae extract, Elemis Pro-Collagen Energising Marine Cleanser, $105 from Mecca, does much more than cleanse skin. The energy-boosting formula rejuvenates skin while fending off the first signs of ageing. If it’s a simple, fast, and efficacious cleanser you’re after, Clarins Cleansing Micellar Water, $60, ticks all of the boxes. The gentle micellar water is enriched with a skin microbiome-boosting complex and efficiently cleanses skin, leaving it glowing and hydrated.

From super-powered serums to new favourite

foundations, the latest beauty launches will get skin glowing this autumn.

PRIME TIME

HYDRATION BOOST All skin types need a serious hit of hydration as the seasons change and humidity levels drop, but dry, sensitive skin needs an extra helping hand. Avène’s famous Thermal Spring Water is at the heart of the deeply nourishing and regenerative Revitalizing Nourishing Cream. The rich yet quickly absorbed moisturiser also features an antioxidant-rich berry extract, which strengthens the skin’s barrier, helping it lock in moisture.

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Bobbi Brown’s cult moisturiser Vitamin Enriched Face Base, $110, gets a new partner in prime this season. The multitasking Vitamin Enriched Eye Base, $95, doubles as both a primer and a nourishing eye cream to restore radiance and hydration to the delicate eye area with its youthrestoring combo of line-fighting vitamins. Plus, the velvety, easily absorbed formula glides onto the skin to quickly perk up tiredlooking eyes almost instantly.


B EAU T Y

THE SKIN SAVIOUR

You’re not the only one having trouble saying goodbye to summer — your skin could be suffering too. Whether it’s the changing seasons, lifestyle, or the environment taking a toll on your complexion, Murad Intense Recovery Cream, $149, has been formulated to soothe and nourish stressed visages. A fast-acting combo of shea butter, macadamia oil, and microalgae extract work together to calm unhappy skin. After use, skin is deeply hydrated, irritation and redness are reduced, and visible signs of stress, such as lines and dullness, are diminished.

LOVES

GET LIPPY If your handbag is constantly bursting at the seams thanks to an endless array of lipsticks, lip tints, and balms, Chanel’s game-changing new Rouge Coco Bloom is the lip-colour trifecta you need in your life. One swipe of Rouge Coco Bloom delivers rich, longlasting colour, serious shine, and moisturising oils that keep lips hydrated

BLUSHING BEAUTIES

and kissable all day.

If it’s a speedy, pared-back approach to make-up that you’re after this autumn, add a serious, next-generation blush to your arsenal, stat. Gone are the days of hard-to-blend, cake-like blushes — today’s formulas glide onto skin to perk up your complexion without looking overdone. Try: Too Faced Color Blossoming Lip & Cheek Tint in Peach, $44 from Mecca. Sisley Le Phyto-Blush in Rosewood, $100. Jane Iredale Glow Time Blush & Highlighter Stick in Aura, $85.

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B E AUT Y

G LOW YO U GOOD THING Lacklustre skin is a common occurrence come autumn, but it doesn’t have to be the way. Combat seasonal changes to your skin by reaching for formulas created to whisk away dull skin cells, and voila, your complexion will be glowing in no time. Try: Kate Somerville Kateceuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel, $149 from Mecca. YSL Pure Shots Soft Polish Double Essence, $121. Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Brightening Treatment Ferment 3 + Vitamin C, $158.

IN THE NUDE Fed up with foundation formulas that weigh down skin and dry it out? Comprised of 96 per cent natural-origin ingredients, the latest addition to Dior’s foundation family, Dior Forever Natural Nude ($109), boosts skin health while providing flawless, natural-looking coverage. Powerful botanical ingredients optimise skin hydration, enhance radiance, and refine skin texture, so skin is stronger and more beautiful than before.

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Whether it’s high-shine, matte, glossy, or velvet, there’s nothing quite like the transformative power of a serious red lipstick to bolster your confidence and put a little pep in your step. These three newcomers get the Fashion Quarterly seal of approval this autumn. Estée Lauder Pure Color Illuminating Shine Lipstick in Unpredictable, $64. YSL Rouge Volupté Shine in Rouge Studio, $65. Dior Rouge Dior in 999, $66.

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

REDDY, SET, GO


FQ X L’O R ÉAL PAR IS

The Winning Formula

L’Oréal Paris True Match Foundation carries 36 true-to-skin shades in various undertones. Each shade name includes a ‘C’ for cool, ‘W’ for warm’ or ‘N’ for neutral.

With 36 beautiful shades, it’s easy to find your perfect

foundation match with L’Oréal Paris True Match Foundation.

PUT IT TO THE TEST By this point, you should have a good idea of your perfect shade of L’Oréal Paris True Match

inding your dream foundation in

to the natural colour of your complexion

Foundation. Trying out foundation shades on bare, clean skin is the key to selecting your final

the perfect shade isn’t always easy. Whether it’s lack of shade range or

when you’re not wearing make-up. You will have either fair, light, medium, or deep skin

shade. While it’s tempting to quickly swatch foundation shades on your inner arm, the skin

formulations that are too light or too heavy, it takes time to find the foundation

tone. To find the most flattering shade of foundation, you need to choose a shade that

tone on your face and arms varies significantly. Instead, start with three shades that look like

that’s right for your complexion. But with

matches your skin tone.

a good match and apply them in parallel lines

36 true-to-skin shades, it’s easy to find your perfect match with L’Oréal Paris True Match

UNDERSTAND UNDERTONE

on your jawline, extending the product from your cheek and onto your neck slightly. You’ll

Foundation. The super-blendable formula not

Now you know your skin tone, you need to

know you have found the perfect shade when it

only matches skin colour, tone, and texture, but also minimises imperfections without weighing down skin. Here’s how to find your perfect L’Oréal Paris True Match shade for a flawless, radiant, and natural complexion.

figure out your undertone. Your undertone is the colour underneath your skin’s surface and will be warm, cool, or neutral. There are a few tricks you can use to work out which you are. Wearing a white T-shirt can help you figure out your undertone — or you can hold a piece of white paper up to your face. You have a cool undertone if your skin looks rosy or pink; warm if it looks golden or yellow; and if you look good in both white and cream hues, you’re probably a neutral colour. Looking at the colour of your veins on your inner arm can also help. Cool undertones tend to have blue or purple veins; green veins indicate warm

blends seamlessly into your skin. Once you’ve selected your shade, you’ll want to look at it in the right lighting. Checking your foundation in natural light will ensure that you’ve found your perfect L’Oréal Paris True Match Foundation shade.

F

SORT YOUR SKIN TONE While it can be tempting to opt for a slightly darker shade, the perfect foundation should be almost invisible. Think of it like a second skin: it should blend seamlessly into your skin tone. To find your perfect L'Oréal Paris True Match Foundation shade, you need to understand your skin tone. ‘Skin tone’ refers

skin tone; and if you’re unsure, you’re quite possibly neutral.

PRO TIP!

Skin tone changes with the seasons. It’s unlikely that your winter foundation shade will still work with your skin tone come summer, so consider investing in a wardrobe of L’Oréal Paris True Match Foundation shades to keep skin flawless no matter the season.

Fashion Quarterly and L’Oréal Paris are looking for 20 Kiwis to be the faces of the next True Match campaign. If you’re selected as one of the new faces of the L’Oréal Paris True Match Foundation campaign, you’ll be invited to an exclusive shoot day with Fashion Quarterly and L’Oréal Paris. You’ll also receive a L’Oréal Paris True Match gift bag (valued at $250), the opportunity to be featured in Fashion Quarterly, and flights to Auckland for the day. Visit fq.co.nz/true-match to enter now.

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THE LEGENDARY MIRACLE BROTH It’s La Mer’s luxurious, innovative ingredients that sets its moisturisers apart from the rest. Legendary Miracle Broth is at the heart of every La Mer moisturiser, which means that no matter which formula you reach for on any given day, you can expect transformative results. Miracle Broth’s precious oceanderived ingredients, including natural sea kelp and vitamins, undergo an intensive three-to-four-month bio-fermentation process that unlocks their skinrejuvenating properties. The result is a deeply nourishing star ingredient that enhances skin hydration, plumps and refines skin texture, improves luminosity, and reduces the signs of ageing.

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FQ X FQLA X M XX ER X

A Moisturiser for Every Moment Here’s how to curate the ultimate moisturiser wardrobe for all your skin’s needs with La Mer’s luxurious, hydrating formulas.

I

f you’ve ever reached for your go-to

with serious hydration without weighing it

moisturiser and wondered why it’s not working as well as it used to, it’s probably

down. It’s the perfect La Mer moisturising formula for those days when skin feels

THE MOISTURIZING SOFT LOTION La Mer takes an innovative approach to

because your skin is constantly changing. Very few of us are blessed with ‘normal’ skin

dehydrated and needs a little extra hydration.

skin hydration with Soft Lotion Capsules in The Moisturizing Soft Lotion ($455 for

365 years a day. In fact, it’s common for skin

CRÈME DE LA MER

50ml). La Mer has successfully suspended

to change from summer to winter, day to day, or even from morning to evening. Because

Crème de la Mer (from $150 for 15ml), the original moisturiser in La Mer’s moisturiser

its transformative Miracle Broth in capsule form to keep the star ingredient

our skin changes as our hormones, lifestyle,

collection, has remained a bestseller over

as active as possible until it is applied. The

and seasons change, a one-moisturiser-fitsevery-day-of-the-year approach is unlikely to address our ever-evolving skin concerns. Instead, to keep our complexions luminous and well-hydrated and healthy, we need a tailored approach to our skin’s diverse needs. La Mer’s luxurious collection of moisturisers has been created with this in mind. At the heart of the five formulas is Miracle Broth — La Mer’s legendary rejuvenating elixir — yet each moisturiser addresses specific concerns. With a formula for every day, season, and skin type, think of La Mer’s moisturisers as your dream ‘wardrobe’ for your skin.

the years for good reason. Cherished for its

weightless formula immediately melts into skin, releasing Miracle Broth and Lime Tea Concentrate, quickly infusing skin with hydration for right-around-theclock radiance.

THE LA MER LINE-UP THE MOISTURIZING SOFT CREAM Touted as the softest texture La Mer has ever formulated, The Moisturizing Soft Cream (from $150 for 15ml) harnesses the power of super-sumptuous moisturising spheres that penetrate the skin almost instantly to soothe and provide it with rejuvenating moisture. Don’t be deceived by its lightweight formula: The Moisturizing Soft Cream not only deeply moisturises skin, but a host of nourishing ingredients also help to minimise the signs of ageing while boosting your complexion’s radiance.

luxurious, rich texture, Crème de la Mer is renowned for its soothing, moisturising, and healing properties derived from Miracle Broth. When to wear it: A number of reasons can leave skin feeling more parched than normal. Some of the frequent culprits include chilly weather, a change in diet, or skimping on your skincare routine. Whatever the reason, La Mer’s iconic Crème de la Mer makes dehydrated skin a thing of the past. Those who suffer from dry skin will want to ensure that

When to wear it: Neither too rich nor too light, The Moisturizing Soft Lotion is ideal for when your skin feels well balanced. Think of this formula as the one in your La Mer moisturiser wardrobe that you reach for when skin is neither dehydrated nor oily, but still in need of a radiance-enhancing moisturiser.

Crème de la Mer has a prime position in their moisturiser wardrobe all-year-round.

THE MOISTURIZING MATTE LOTION

THE MOISTURIZING COOL GEL CREAM Revolutionary Micro Oil Gel Cream Capsule technology is at the heart of The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream (from $150 for 15ml). Created for combination and oily skin, the capsules in this La Mer formula provide nourishing moisture while leaving skin cooled, calmed, and revitalised. Lime Tea’s addition strengthens the skin’s barrier, protecting it from stress and pollution, so skin stays radiant and hydrated all day long.

When to wear it: Whether it’s a drop in humidity — hello, autumn — or a change

When to wear it: Humidity, hormones, diet, and over-cleansing can leave skin feeling oily. The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream is

in lifestyle that’s left your combination skin feeling a little drier than normal, The Moisturizing Soft Cream enriches skin

the formula you need in your moisturising wardrobe to soothe and hydrate combinationto-oily skin quickly.

If you’re considering skimping on moisturiser because your skin has a day when it’s a little oilier than normal, think again. The Moisturizing Matte Lotion by La Mer ($455 for 50ml) has been created to hydrate skin while leaving it with a refined matte finish that minimises unwanted shine. Miracle Broth delivers the same transformative skin-healing properties while reducing the appearance of pores and balancing your complexion, leaving skin looking healthy and vibrant. When to wear it: Thanks to diet, hormones, and other lifestyle factors, we can all have days — or longer stretches of time — when our skin is oilier than we would like it to be. La Mer is available at Smith & Caughey’s, David Jones, selected Mecca boutiques and online at meccabeauty.co.nz.

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B E AUT Y

Whether it’s the

GOO

Eternal City, the

D

N E T C S S

G

sun-drenched coast of Oman, or a blooming tuberose garden that takes your fancy, these new fragrances will transport you there in just one spritz.

lobetrotting is still off the cards, but don’t fret. Take your senses on a journey with a spritz of an enchanting new-season scent. Clockwise from top left: Luxury fragrance house Amouage unveils four new scents as part of The Renaissance collection this month.

turmeric-leaf oil, jasmine sambac absolute, and sandalwood. The tumultuous times we find ourselves in serve as the muse for the latest Byredo olfactive sensation, Mixed Emotions, $264, 50ml from Mecca. Familiar notes of Ceylon black tea and blackcurrant sit atop a woody base of birch wood and papyrus.

Yellow Dream, $187, 50ml EDP. Spritz on Tom Ford Tubéreuse Nue, $530, 50ml EDP, and stroll through a blooming garden of tuberose and jasmine. Dreamy notes of musk and spice round off this bewitching fragrance. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele reimagines Gucci Guilty Eau de Toilette pour

Ashore, $499, 100ml EDP, captures the radiance of Oman’s coastal town of Ras al-Jinz with zingy pink pepper, cardamom and

Sparkling notes of lemon and Damascan rose will let your senses wander through the Eternal City with Valentino Born in Roma

Femme, $143, 50ml EDT. Luminous citrus, fresh pink pepper, lilac, peach, and raspberry make this an uplifting choice for autumn.

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*

TAKE YOUR LASHES TO PARADISE.

WITH CARING OILS

LASH PARADISE MASCARA INSTANT BREATHTAKING VOLUME. ULTRA-SOFT APPLICATION. SUITABLE FOR SENSITIVE EYES. *As of 3rd March 2021. Independently reviewed on BeautyReview.co.nz. Rating subject to change.


B E AUT Y

Anna Ross MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP

On her return to New Zealand, the clean beauty pioneer and founder

of Kester Black shares her vision for a cleaner, greener future of beauty. MOVING HOME IN AUGUST LAST YEAR WAS A PRETTY EASY DECISION TO MAKE. With Covid having a huge impact in Australia, New Zealand became more and more of a lure for us. It’s such a safe haven, and we felt lucky to be able to choose Wanaka as our new home and business base. Wanaka is a dream. It has given me time and space to think, and a whole new

Kester Black’s new products and names has purely come from being home and being immersed in new surroundings. It’s a never-ending kaleidoscope of colour and light that makes you see things differently every single day, and I am excited about what that means for Kester Black. New Zealand is a bit synonymous with the colour green, and once I’d settled back in, I was reminded of just how many shades of green there are, which made me start thinking about when I was little. Like scratch-and-sniff stickers were prized possessions — hence ‘Another Pickle’ — and summers were spent running around with these oversized water pistols — Super Soakers — camping in the backyard, and drenching the holidays away.

MY LOVE FOR AND BELIEF IN ETHICAL BEAUTY GOES WAY BEYOND KESTER BLACK. I am single-minded when it comes to it being time for all beauty brands to focus on becoming ethical. Kester Black is initiating a new code of ethics for cosmetics that other brands can follow. For beauty brands wanting to become ethical, creating a brand positioning statement is the first step. It’s easy to Kester Black Self Love Oil, $32

I’M ALREADY FUELLED WITH NEW IDEAS, UNENCUMBERED BY THE DISTRACTIONS OF THE RAT RACE. The inspiration for

Kester Black First Date Lipstick, $45

tapestry to fuel my creativity. Wanaka is a great muse, and we’re super happy to be home.

in being ethical, sustainable, and delivering social justice. These shouldn’t be the merely glib marketing buzzwords. I believe in beauty with a higher purpose. I call Kester Black a good-weird kind of beauty company, and I think that has helped to define how I feel about the beauty category. I’m uncompromising about being certified carbon neutral, donating two per cent of all revenue to social causes, [and] making vegan and sustainable products that are classy with a conscience. That’s what fires and fuels me.

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Kester Black Another Pickle Nail Polish, $26

Kester Black Clean Gene Nail Polish, $26

BEAUTY TO ME MEANS HEALTH AND HAPPINESS. For me, modern beauty is rooted

know exactly how to formulate products and choose to package once you know what you stand for. Are you vegan? Or natural? Those two values can be very opposing, which is why you don’t see many ethical colour cosmetics brands on the market.

WHEN IT COMES TO NAILS, PREPARATION IS KEY. A clean, dry base will make your manicure last three to four days longer. And never, ever skip the base and topcoat! They’re just as important as the colour of your manicure. It’s like eating a sandwich without the bread.

DON’T SKIP THE SPF! For the past four years, I have been working closely with a dermatologist to formulate functional skincare products. Before I met her, I had never really understood the benefits of wearing sunscreen (but that’s the beauty when you are under 30, I guess). She taught me to take care of my skin — preventative care is so much better and longer-lasting than trying to repair it after the fact.


FQ X AVÈN E

THE SECRET TO CARING FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

For hundreds of years, people from around the world have sought out the healing properties Avène’s thermal water. Here’s how to work the French skincare brand into your daily routine.

N

estled in the heart of southern France in the lush

star ingredient. The water, drawn directly from the healing spring, is cherished for

Haut-Languedoc Regional Nature Park is the quaint

its unique composition, which soothes, softens, and renews skin. In fact, with over

STAR OF THE SHOW

village of Avène. For two centuries now,

150 clinical studies and publications in

people have flocked from around the globe to discover Avène’s natural spring:

scientific journals, Avène Thermal Spring Water has been approved and recommended

Sainte Odile — and, given its remarkable

by dermatologists worldwide for sensitive,

healing properties, but the Thermal

skin-healing properties, it’s no surprise. Over the last 250 years, the thermal spring water and Avène’s hydrotherapy centre have become internationally renowned for their ability to treat a wide range of hardto-treat dermatological conditions. While Avène’s hydrotherapy centre has expanded significantly and continues to attract guests from all over the world, today, you no longer have to travel to the French village to experience the benefits of Sainte Odile. Thanks to Avène skincare, the prized, rejuvenating water from the healing spring is available in a wide array of skincare offerings:

hypersensitive, and allergy-prone skin.

Spring Water Spray has also become known for its myriad uses. There’s really not a lot that the multitasking beauty essential can’t do. Avène Thermal Spring Water Spray can be used for everything from removing make-up to calming skin redness after exercise, soothing shaving rash, and relieving sunburn.

from the iconic Avène Thermale Spring Water spray to youth-restoring moisturisers and serums.

THE AVÈNE DIFFERENCE Thanks to various factors — our busy lifestyles, modern diets, the environment, and pollution, to name a few — sensitive and reactive skin have become common problems. Anyone with sensitive skin will understand that it can be difficult to find skincare products that agree with sensitive skin and also soothe and strengthen the skin’s barrier. Fortunately, an in-depth understanding and thorough approach to sensitive skin are at the heart of Avène’s skincare philosophy. Each Avène product — whether it be for acne-prone skin, redness, hydration, or fighting the signs of ageing — has the rejuvenating Avène Thermal Spring Water as a

Discover the extensive Avène range in-store in pharmacies and explore Avène’s recommended skincare routines for all skin types online at eau-thermaleavene.co.nz

Not only does Avène Thermal Spring Water possess unique skin-

SENSITIVE SKIN 101 We all have unique skin concerns, and sensitive skin is no exception. Sensitive skin can present in various ways, and while some might suffer from chronic sensitive skin, sensitive skin can also be something others suffer from periodically. According to Avène, naturally sensitive skin tends to be thin, is often dry, and can appear scaly and be prone to redness. In contrast, reactionary sensitive skin — which most of us have probably experienced at one point or another — might rear its head after too much time in the sun or wind or when you use products that irritate your complexion. Other skin conditions, for example, dermatitis, rosacea, and acne, can also increase skin sensitivity. If you’re unsure whether your skin is sensitive or you’re just suffering from reactionary sensitivity, it always pays to check in with a dermatologist.

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B E AUT Y

S AV E OUR TRESSES Plagued with a dry scalp, damaged tresses, or hair that just won’t grow? You’re not alone and certainly shouldn’t be embarrassed to talk with your hairdresser about these common hair woes. Here’s how to get the most out of your time in the salon seat.

e all know exactly what it’s like to step out of the salon with a fresh new cut and colour and feel completely indestructible. After all, in the beauty world, there’s nothing quite like a new hairdo to boost confidence and uplift the spirits. But, if you’ve ever looked back on a recent hair appointment and wondered why your dull,

W

stress — that play a factor in scalp health. But the scalp is where it all comes from.” Despite us all understanding just how uplifting great hair can make us feel, many common hair problems — dandruff, dry scalp, hair fall, and breakage — remain taboo topics, even when we find ourselves in the salon seat. Since we rarely hear these issues being discussed openly, it can be nerve-

It might help to know that you’re not the only one who might feel a little awkward about unspoken yet incredibly common hair dilemmas. Beel admits that it’s not just the client who finds these topics tricky to navigate — hairdressers also struggle. “A lot of hairdressers don’t know how to approach these issues confidently without making a client feel self-conscious,” Beel explains.

brittle, and damaged tresses have returned to haunt you, it might be time to give your approach to hair health a serious overhaul. “There’s definitely this belief a good shampoo, cut, and treatment will fix everything,” says four-time New Zealand hairdresser of the year and Dyson New Zealand ambassador Michael Beel. But, unfortunately, if you’re plagued with any number of common hair issues, a remedy isn’t as simple as a trip to the salon for just a trim, wash, and colour. As Beel explains, hair has a lifespan of up to seven years — that means, by the time hair reaches your shoulders, it has had seven years’ worth of damage, exposure to pollution and the harsh New Zealand sun, heat styling, and colouring. And then there’s the oftenforgotten scalp — the place where healthy hair begins. “If the scalp is really dry or oily or is

racking to pipe up and ask your hairdresser for some expert advice.

“Some hairdressers don’t find it easy to say, ‘Oh hey, you’ve got a little bit of dry scalp or

clogged up with dandruff, new healthy hair will struggle to grow,” explains Beel. “There is a whole number of things — [from] diet to

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patch of thinning hair. Here’s what we can do about that.’” After all, hairdressers are well aware of just how great that time spent at the salon can make us feel. “Our job as a hairdresser is to make people feel beautiful and more confident when they walk out of the salon with a great cut and a great colour. No one wants to say, ‘Oh, you’ve got a really dry scalp’,” Beel says. If these hair woes are as prevalent as Beel says they are — every day he sees around two or three clients out of 12 with a hair or scalp concern — why are we, and hairdressers, embarrassed to talk about them? Blame it on ridiculous and unattainable beauty standards, says Beel. “Society has this expectation that we should look amazing 100 per cent of the time,” he says. The reality is, a dry scalp and hair breakage can happen to anyone. “It’s really no different to having dry skin,” says Beel.

HAIRCARE FOR THOUGHT If having a dry scalp — or various other hair concerns — is no different from having a dehydrated complexion — which, let’s face it, we all suffer occasionally — then perhaps it’s time to start approaching our hair with the same care and thought as our skincare routine. If our skin is giving us grief, most of us know to enlist the help of a great skin therapist. If our scalp or hair is unhappy, your hairdresser is the best place to start. “It might be a little bit awkward to have these conversations at first, but, at the end of the day, it starts a really important conversation,” says Beel. Breaking down some of the stigma attached to certain hair problems and understanding their causes is helpful too. A dry scalp and dandruff are two very unique conditions, explains Beel, and neither is caused by poor hair hygiene. Dandruff — which is often more common in teenagers — is usually oily in appearance and is caused by a chemical imbalance that occurs when the scalp overproduces skin cells. A dry scalp has various causes and is more common than dandruff and is usually easier to solve. Whereas dandruff might require a medicated shampoo, dry scalp — which Beel frequently sees in the salon — can benefit from a serious treatment routine. While an at-the-basin treatment or take-home salonquality product might feel like a hairdresser is merely trying to upsell, using the right products makes all the difference where hair and scalp health is concerned. Although it’s very tempting to reach for whatever is in the haircare aisle at the supermarket, not all shampoos and

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DAMAGED TRESSES

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Moroccanoil All-In-One Leave-In Conditioner, $58.95.

Joico Heat Hero Glossing Thermal Protector, $38.

Sol de Janeiro Triple Brazilian Butter Hair Repair Treatment, $61 from Mecca.

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor Deep-Penetrating Treatment, $40.


B EAU T Y

conditioners are created equal. “Using supermarket-stocked shampoos and conditioners with lots of sulphates can strip the hair of moisture and dry out the scalp,” explains Beel. And while he says that we really shouldn’t need to wash our hair every day, those of us who insist on doing so need to consider the products they’re using daily carefully. “If you’re a shampoo every day person, you need to invest in a very gentle, moisturising shampoo, so you’re not drying the scalp out and stripping moisture away,” he says. And although our haircare routine may not require quite as many steps as our visage routine, Beel says we shouldn’t ever underestimate a good treatment. “Kiwi women don’t tend to do treatments at home, but it’s a good habit to get into. Your hair will thank you for it.” Hair fall is another common problem that Beel sees in the salon, and although it can be rather frightening, it is temporary. “It can be caused by stress, diet, a medication, or pregnancy,” explains Beel. In fact, ‘Why is my hair falling out?’ was one of the most

protein it needs.” If it’s over-colouring that’s contributing to the problem, Beel says that it doesn’t mean you have to give up your regular colour: it just might mean taking a slightly less intensive approach, such as balayage or ombre. “You don’t have to get it touched

Olaplex No. 0 Intensive Bond

GOING GREY GRACEFULLY

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While grey hair certainly used to be a bit of a taboo hair topic that many just sought to resolve with a full head of colour or a serious chop, Beel thinks that our attitudes towards grey hair have slowly but surely started to change. “Coming out of lockdown last year, when salons were closed for 10 weeks, a lot of clients got used to their grey hair and were OK with it coming through and have stuck with it,” he says. Even though there has been a definite shift in thinking, there is still one mindset regarding grey hair that Beel would like to see challenged. “It’s such a Kiwi and an Aussie thing that when

Kevin Murphy Thick Again, $74.

women reach a certain age or go grey … [they]

struggled to grow your hair past a certain

is possible to have gorgeous grey hair.”

“IT’S SUCH A KIWI AND AN AUSSIE THING THAT WHEN WOMEN REACH A CERTAIN AGE OR GO GREY … [THEY] FEEL THAT THEY HAVE TO HAVE A SHORT HAIRCUT”

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

essentials.

and get the effect you want while caring for your hair.”

Breakage-induced hair fall is another commonplace hair dilemma that doesn’t always get enough attention. If you’ve ever

PREVENTION IS KEY

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up every six weeks; you can let it soften out

feel that they have to have a short haircut,” he says. “If you want longer hair and you’re older, it’s definitely possible.” All you need to do, says Beel, is have those open conversations with your hairdresser about how you look after it. “If you want long hair, have long hair,” he says. “It’s just a bit more maintenance.” Unfortunately, ageing isn’t always kind to tresses, and grey hair does need more TLC. Beel explains that our hair’s texture changes as it goes grey, plus once-hydrated hair tends to become dehydrated and dry. “You just need to style it, so it looks fresh and groomed, and it needs a lot more moisture, but it definitely

searched beauty-related queries last year during the peak of the pandemic. Fortunately, as worrying as stress-related hair fall can be, Beel says that it takes a while, but hair does grow back. It’s hair loss and some types of alopecia that are permanent. “Unfortunately, there’s no amount of shampoo or treatments that will fix that, so that’s when a hairdresser should recommend you see a trichologist.”

HAIR FALL

length, breakage could be to blame. “Quite often, super fine hair will only grow to a certain length and then it just breaks, and it feels like it’s impossible to grow your hair,” Beel explains. While genetics can play a role, often colouring and heat damage are to blame. In short, this means that heat protection, leave-in treatments, and putting the heated styling tools down now and again really should be non-negotiable. “Prevention is better than the cure,” says Beel. “If you

While there’s plenty we can do ourselves to help get the hair of our dreams — there’s no time like the present to start weekly at-home hair treatments — your hairdresser should be your port of call for anything hair related that you’re unsure of. A great hairdresser, says Beel, should be asking much more than simply, ‘What do you want to do with your hair today?’ “They should be invested in asking more questions while really assessing the hair and the scalp,” he says. And, as great as that cut and colour can make us feel, at the

can do regular treatments at home, you will save your hair. You’ll strengthen it and give it the nourishment, the moisture, the

end of the day, Beel says putting your head in the sand and just hoping your hair and scalp problems will go away isn’t going to fix

Kérastase Serum AntiChute Fortifiant Anti Hair-Fall Fortifying Serum, $70.

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Pro Longer Ends Filling Treatment, $15.

anything. “Start having an open conversation with your hairdresser now.” As he points out, if you’ve been going to them for a while, then they probably know a fair bit about you already. “Use that time to sit down and talk about what you want to achieve and what your concerns are. Make 2021 the year you achieve your hair goals.”

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THE GOOD OILS 1. A powerful cocktail of natural oils in Kemon Actyva Bellessere Oil ($43.50) works quickly to regenerate and protect hair. 2. Multitasking KMS Moist Repair Hydrating Oil ($32.95) tames, smooths, protects, and refreshes hair for lustrous, healthy locks. 3. Luxuriously lightweight Oribe Gold Lust Nourishing Hair Oil ($91) restores shine, strength, and smoothness to hair in need.

TOP SPEED

Styling thick, rebellious tresses is generally a tricky, time-consuming affair. But thanks to the new ghd Max styler ($360), it doesn’t have to be. With plates that are 70 per cent bigger than regular styling plates, the ghd Max makes styling difficult hair a breeze. Not only do the plates halve styling time, but hair is also shinier, frizz-free, and less prone to unwanted breakage. “One pass leaves the hair with the most incredible glass-like shine, and the frizz control is second to none,” explains Jordan Thomas, education executive for ghd Australia and New Zealand.

Hair Notebook Don’t let wild autumn weather get the better of

your hair. Pamper tresses with these essentials.

HOT STUFF Suffering from unwanted hair fall is a common problem, and sometimes it can be tempting to forgo heat styling in an attempt to remedy the situation. New Kérastase Défense Thermique, $48, has been formulated with breakage-prone tresses in mind. The deeply nourishing formula strengthens, hydrates, and protects hair so that you can reach for your favourite styling tools each morning without worrying about hair fall and breakage.

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No longer are voluminous beautiful locks out of reach to those with fine hair. Joico Rise Up Powder Spray, $38, amplifies hair in need in no time at all. All it takes is a few puffs of the innovative spray to give immediate volume at the roots and texture throughout — plus, the formula protects locks from pollutants too. “No need to tease,” explains Joico brand ambassador Larisa Love. “Just spray a couple puffs into the root of the hair and move your fingers on the scalp in a circular motion [and] you’ll get volume for days.”

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

NEED A LIFT?



WHITEWASHED, ELITIST, AND DRENCHED IN QANON

IS WELLNESS AS WE KNOW IT OVER? Just like Covid has made influencers and celebrities seem tone-deaf, so too has it impacted the wellness industry. Isabelle Truman investigates whether the products promising to make us well are actually doing the opposite. WORDS ISABELLE TRUMAN


B EAU T Y

T

his morning, I opened Instagram to see a beauty influencer waving sage around her

towards body positivity — or, better yet, body neutrality — took hold in 2012 and 2015, respectively, women

living room. Over top of the video, which showcased her pristine home as it was cleansed from negative energy, she wrote, “Only good

started to shy away from publicly dieting. That’s when cleanses, detoxes and organic food came in — all in the name of wellness, of course. Not only did this increased

vibes this week”. A minute later, an email popped up on my phone with the subject line, “Why This Nasa-Backed

focus on healthy food give rise to a new generation of chefs, ready to help us distinguish between ‘good’ and

Skin-Care Tool Is Our New Wellness Obsession”.

‘bad’ food one bulgar wheat salad at a time, but it led

Curious, I searched my inbox for the term ‘wellness.’ Hundreds of unopened emails popped up in reply. “Feel

to a surge in ‘orthorexia’, an eating disorder defined as an unhealthy obsession with healthy food. Through

the Power of Sexual Wellness” read one. “Kick Start 2021 With Our Veganuary Wellness Zoom Event” was

gluten-free labels to juice cleanses and intermittent fasting, wellness made restrictive eating something

another. “The 5 Best Wellness Products To Combat Stress” alleged a third, which almost had me purchasing

to be proud of. A prime example of this diet industry rebranding is the company Weight Watchers, which in

a rose quartz drink bottle, promising to infuse my water with positive energy, by minute five.

2018 changed its name to simply ‘WW’, repackaging as a holistic lifestyle change rather than a weight-loss

The notion of wellness to optimise health and

programme. However, rather than any real change to its

happiness without relying on modern medicine was introduced in Halbert L Dunn’s book

core calorie-limiting philosophy, WW’s commitment to this new concept seems to be limited to how users

High Level Wellness in 1961. The idea was radical at the time and took off in the ’60s in California,

can earn “wellness wins” for logging their weight and daily food intake. When it comes to a pandemic, this

where early pioneers were exploring the fringes of alternative medicine to prevent, not cure, illness. This included diets based on Zen Buddhism (now known

focus on clean everything also fuels the anti-vaxxer rhetoric. Recently, much to the dismay of those who take their classes, many at the forefront of the industry,

as ‘macrobiotic’) and mindful workshops where breathing was given as much credence as anti-anxiety

have begun spreading QAnon theories too. In late 2020, Buti Yoga founder Bizzie Gold stated in an

medication. Those who participated were eyed with interview that we “should stop being poisoned through suspicion by the medical world and thought of as vaccines”, while yoga influencer Stephanie Birch uses hippies who’d either lost all faith in science or simply QAnon-related hashtags, such as #greatawakening, lost the plot completely. Nearly 50 years later, in 2008, interspersed with book recommendations and posts a wellness brand named ‘Goop’ was launched with about motherhood. a simple e-newsletter actress by Gwyneth Paltrow. Food hasn’t been the only thing rebranded to profit At first, the company was laughed at as its wellness from society’s quest for wellness. So too has exercise. forefathers had been. Thirteen years on, Paltrow is the To be a proper, healthy, functioning human being, it is owner of a business that spans four-annual wellness now essential to do a mixture of HIIT (high intensity retreats, a podcast, a print magazine and a docuseries interval training), weights, yoga, and Pilates each week. for Netflix. In 2017, Goop was reported to be worth As Jia Tolentino notes in one of her essays in her 2019 over US$250M. Paltrow’s success mirrors that of the book Trick Mirror, if you have the money ($40 plus per wellness industry, today worth an estimated US$4.5 class) and time to incorporate barre into this regime, trillion. Wellness is no longer something on the fringes you are likely near perfect at self-optimising. After all of society; it is an ideology that is everywhere and in that exercise and calorie counting, one is bound to need almost everything we do. Wellness is the YouTube to relax. But these days, a hot bath won’t do it. Instead, Yoga with Adriene workouts that 9.3 million subscribers you must meditate, practise mindfulness, and fill in loyally partake in. It’s in crystals, reiki, and mindfulness. a gratitude journal. In recent years, people have been It’s oat milk, kombucha, açaí bowls, and the organic questioning whether these pursuits that are promising section at the supermarket. It’s being gluten-free. to make us well are actually doing the opposite, resulting It’s also expensive retreats; organic serums that the in burnout, stress, and exhaustion. And just when you aforementioned beauty influencer tells me I urgently thought we’d hit peak wellness, a pandemic hit. need; and, according to the Goop website, 68 products As levels of stress and anxiety rose in early ranging from $15 for a bamboo toothbrush to $322 for a 2020, businesses jumped in to profit off that fear. Large Standard Singing Bowl Set — the latter essentially Downloads of mindfulness apps, such as Calm and some incense and vegan soap that’s supposed to help Headspace, surged as people looked for something you meditate better. to alleviate the panic they felt when reading the news. The success of today’s wellness industry rests The New York Times reports that last April, as the world on the idea that it’s not simply good enough to moved into a global lockdown, more than two million look beautiful; you have to feel it too. As journalist people paid US$69.99 (NZ$98.14) for an annual Taffy Brodesser-Akner observed in The New York Times subscription to Calm, an app that includes guided in 2018, “The minute the phrase ‘having it all’ lost favor among women, AFTER ALL THAT EXERCISE AND CALORIE wellness came in to pick up the pieces.” COUNTING, ONE IS BOUND TO NEED TO RELAX. Brodesser-Akner’s observation can also be said about diet culture. As movements

BUT THESE DAYS, A HOT BATH WON’T DO IT. FQ.CO.NZ

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B E AUT Y

it saw a “100 percent growth in the last year”, with 10 million new subscribers. To date, one of Calm’s most popular pieces of content is a 39-minute bedtime story

from the easy target wellness-bashing, and remember the core pillars of wellness: exercise, healthy food, sleep, stress-reduction, and human connection,” McGroarty explains. “These are not only free, or near free, but there is no more medical evidence for anything on earth than

called Dream With Me, read in a slow, sensual voice by British musician Harry Styles. Released in early July,

these preventative wellness approaches.” Wellness, at its core, is a positive thing. Take

it immediately crashed the app because Styles’s fans —

The Body: A Home for Love, a community in New York that uses wellness to empower Black sexual-assault

this writer included — were so eager to listen to it. At the same time as the pandemic plunged people further into wellness pursuits in the name of good health, Covid had a similar effect on the optics of wellness as it

survivors or, closer to home, Le Va, a communityled organisation that focuses on supporting Pasifika families and individuals through learning initiatives,

did on that of the influencer industry. Just as influencers and celebrities began to look tone-deaf in the pandemic,

scholarships and workshops. Governments also have a role to play in making wellness accessible for

so too did spruiking expensive products, treatments, and detoxes in the name of ‘self-care’. With a long-overdue

all, and, currently, this charge is largely being led by women leaders. Prime Minister Jacinda Adern was

wake-up call from the Black Lives Matter movement,

the pioneer, announcing in 2019 that her government would roll out the world’s very first ‘well-being

it became impossible to ignore not just the privilege associated with wellness but how whitewashed the industry is. Appropriation of cultures aside — incense, acupuncture, reiki, crystals, the list goes on — it’s hard to ignore the overwhelmingly white faces at the forefront of the industry. As Amira Rasool wrote for Glamour in 2019, “If you’re a young Black woman, there are far fewer opportunities to find artfully curated content on Instagram related to our hair type, skin type, or overall well-being. There are far fewer opportunities to feel seen in the wellness world.” Black lesbian feminist poet Audrey Lorde’s famous words, “Caring for myself is not self-indulgence. It is self-preservation, and that is an act of political warfare” were originally written as a radical feminist statement for Black women in 1988. But today, Lorde’s words have been turned into a catch-all phrase used by wealthy white wellness influencers, emblazoned over the likes of canvas tote bags and T-shirts (available to buy online for $42 plus shipping). Covid made elitist white wellness seem unhearing and at odds with what we need as a society. Wellness as we know — just like influencers — seems ready for an overhaul. When you go back to basics, wellness as an idea shouldn’t be elitist, whitewashed, and driven by capitalism. In traditional Māori culture, te whare tapa

budget’ in New Zealand. Iceland’s prime minister, Katrín Jakobsdóttir, and Scotland’s first minister, Nicola Sturgeon, followed suit soon after. On a recent Instagram Live, journalist Laura Pitcher, philosopher Bobo Matjila, and musician Donovan spoke about the notion of community slipping away as society becomes increasingly individualistic. Now, people turn to therapy as a way to have someone listen to them, without the person bringing themselves or their own experiences into the situation. “Instead of having a community to help with problems, the free therapy you used to get from friends, family, and those in your community is behind a paywall,” Donavon noted. You now have to pay $200 an hour to speak to someone about your problems. New York–based chef and activist Sophia Roe is a huge advocate of stripping back wellness to its core principles. On an Instagram Live in 2020, Roe told her 282K followers, “A $20,000 yoga retreat won’t make you well if you don’t focus on the community around you.” Later, on a Zoom, she elaborated: “Wellness is simple: food, air, water,

sunlight, movement, purpose, community. Without community, you don’t have wellness.” Before speaking to Roe, I was planning on spending part of this article pushing people away from the wellness industry as it’s now marketed and more WELLNESS AS AN IDEA SHOULDN’T BE ELITIST, towards self-care: a long bath in the WHITEWASHED, AND DRIVEN BY CAPITALISM evening when you’d usually stay on your laptop working, going for a walk on a whā, the four cornerstones of Māori well-being, show sunny day, sleeping in, and reading in bed instead of that a focus on the mind, spirit, and community is as partaking that intense HIIT workout. Though focused important as physical manifestations of illness. Made less on expensive treatments, these are again, all up of taha tinana (physical health), taha wairua (spiritual luxuries. Moreover, they’re all focused on the self. Selfhealth), taha whānau (family health), and taha hinengaro care, like wellness, is still an idea rooted in a neoliberal (mental health), these four pillars are often illustrated in tradition of looking out for ourselves, rather than seeing the shape of a Māori meeting house. When all the sides ourselves, our health, and our fates as inextricably aren’t prioritised equally, the house falls down. Nowhere linked to our fellow human beings. “If all you’re worried does a $300 jade roller fit into the equation. about is exercise routine and diets and meditation, it’s “The way the term ‘wellness’ is increasingly marketed about you,” Roe explains. “You can have all the vegan — and the ways the media increasingly covers it — is food, do all the yoga, all the meditation, but what is very wrong and limited,” says Beth McGroarty, vice keeping people alive is purpose, is connection. If your president research at Global Wellness Institute. “The wellness protocol does not involve community and does equation of wellness with the narrow luxury wellness not include purpose, it is absolutely not wellness, and it market has profound human costs. We need to step back is absolutely not setting you up for success.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

meditations, “sleep stories” read by celebrities and a series of “daily calms”. The app told the publication



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WITH FLYING COLOURS Workwear gets a bold makeover this season with pops of almost-neon knitwear. Inject vibrancy into timeless silhouettes in classic hues of black with a splash of colour that offers just the right amount of fun.

ON TOP

PHOTOGRAPHY KOWTOW

Kowtow ‘Harry’ jacket, $349, ‘Alpine’ pant, $289, ‘Henri’ crew, $259, and oversized shirt, $249. Launching in-store and online from mid April.

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171


Second Calling

What do you do when the career you’ve work so hard for isn’t what you want any more? Fashion Quarterly speaks with three women

who have made drastic career changes and are all the happier for it. WORDS SARAH MURRAY

W

hen Stacey O’Gorman decided to leave her successful baking business, she was at the top of her game professionally.

manifested itself in her body and overall well-being. “The final few years, year five and six [of the business], my health started to deteriorate. I

“I started doing a lot of yoga and various therapies. I started looking into women’s work, and it was around that time I realised something needed to shift — in my work

Her business Meringue Girls (which she started as a 22-year-old) made eye-catching delectable sweet treats from her popular store in London’s Hackney. Premium department stores such as Harrods, Selfridges, and Fortnum & Mason stocked Meringue Girls’ creations and the business was taking orders from big-name fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Jimmy Choo. O’Gorman was meeting celebrity chefs like Jamie Oliver and Rick Stein, and she’d already ticked off one of her lifelong ambitions — to write a cookbook. “It was so magical,” she says of the time. “It was my dream come true. And it was really fun for the first few years.” But the dizzying heights and bright lights of success gradually dimmed as her role moved away from physically using her hands and

was sick all the time. My hormonal health was debilitating,” she says. “I was exhausted. I was anxious. I was burnt out. I had hormonal acne all over my face. My body was screaming at me that something had to shift. So it wasn’t like, ‘Oh, I want to change careers now’; it was like my body was telling me, ‘I need to change because this is no longer in alignment’.” Speaking from her home in west Auckland’s Titirangi, which is surrounded by lush green bush and views of the ocean, she sounds worlds away from that place in her life. O’Gorman tells me about how she took her time untangling herself from her business to ensure the best possible exit, while she looked at ways to help heal herself naturally.

life and in my relationship life, in all areas of my life,” she says. “That was a natural progression. It wasn’t until I started cultivating a bit more self-awareness by looking a little deeper at all of those areas of my life that I realised I needed to make a shift.” Now 31, O’Gorman has completely changed course and has her own business as a sought-after women’s well-being mentor and educator, working to reconnect women with their female alignment. In simpler terms, that means she helps move women from burnout and overwhelm into alignment and freedom. It wasn’t a planned career shift; rather, it all happened organically. In 2017, she packed

baking until the wee hours of the morning, to managing sales and staff. And the unhappier she became, the more her discontentment

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“I WAS EXHAUSTED. I WAS ANXIOUS. I WAS BURNT OUT. I HAD HORMONAL ACNE ALL OVER MY FACE. MY BODY WAS SCREAMING AT ME THAT SOMETHING HAD TO SHIFT.”


ON TOP

up her London life and travelled with her then-husband (they’ve since divorced) around Europe and then further afield to places like India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, and Thailand. During her travels, she sold her shares in her business and started getting deeper into working on herself. “I was diving into lots of women’s work and work around sexuality and sensuality. I was doing it for myself, and it was a pretty natural progression to start to offer my learnings out.” Of her new career, she says it’s been an everunfolding road. “It was never like, ‘OK, I’m going to change careers now and go from being a meringue girl to a feminine coach’,” she explains. “It was a very natural transition that happened over a few years. I had the luxury of time after selling my business, and I needed that time to stop working, focus on my health, and rejuvenate my creativity in order for something to come through.” O’Gorman is not alone in feeling discontentment in a career and looking for change. And the number could be growing. A survey conducted last year by financial comparison site Finder found that, out of 2001 Kiwis surveyed, 14 per cent wanted to change careers — that’s about one in seven people. While that may not seem like a huge number, it shows that jobseekers are rethinking their careers since the Covid-19 pandemic. For many, changing careers might be an exciting prospect, but career change and development specialist Frances Harré advises looking before you leap. “If you’re unhappy in your job, one of most fundamental things is learning about what others are doing. Look at how they changed their careers. Quite often, people say, ‘I don’t know what’s out there’; but we say, ‘Well, everything is out there. Start with getting clear about what you want’.” She also recommends finding out what you’re deeply interested in and talking to people who are currently in the industry that you’re thinking of moving to. Mostly, though, when it comes to changing your career, her biggest tip is to listen to yourself. “You need to find your own way. One of the key things is learning to listen to yourself, and trust yourself, and not let things like status or what will other people think of you get in the way,” she says. “I’ve had women who won’t leave certain professions because of the status, even though they are no longer engaged or inspired. Status and money can get in the way of you listening to yourself. Sometimes, looking for status is about not really valuing our own worth or looking for credibility outside of yourself rather than being true to yourself.”

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FINDING YOUR WAY Getting a career coach was one of the most pivotal steps that marketing manager for Dose & Co. India Leishman took for herself when she was unhappy in her former job. The 26-year-old had been working in television for over four years, most recently as a presenter and reporter for Breakfast on TV1, and, although she initially loved its fast-paced nature, things were getting a little repetitive. “Creatively, I felt a bit starved,” she admits. “Even if the news stories were different, it started to feel like I was churning out the same thing over and over again — just replacing words and different names.” For Leishman, television wasn’t just a profession; it was in the blood. She’d wanted to work in the industry since she was a young girl and would do pretend interviews with her dad — well-known sports reporter and golf commentator Phillip Leishman. After her dad died in 2013, it seemed like a natural progression to follow in his footsteps. But it was more than that — she really wanted to work in broadcasting as a way to connect with her late father. “I remember going in the first day and thinking Dad would be so proud,” she says. But, like Stacey, the demanding hours and early mornings (think 3.30am starts) began to take their toll. Even so, she didn’t rush out and change jobs quickly. “It was a long process,” she says. “I sat in that space of being very unhappy for about a year. I felt like I didn’t have a future at TVNZ that I wanted for myself or any real purpose from the work I was doing. It really impacted my life. “I felt negative all the time, I wasn’t motivated or inspired, and I was always tired. And, to top it all off, the money wasn’t good either. I was in a really low, and possibly even verging on depressed, state, crying all the

“IT WAS THE FIRST TIME IN SUCH A LONG TIME THAT I FELT LIKE MYSELF AGAIN. HOPE HAD RETURNED. I WAS EXCITED AND HAPPY, CAPABLE AND CAREER-DRIVEN AGAIN.”

Nick Mowbray a message on LinkedIn asking if he had any marketing roles available. It was a confident move that paid off, and, last year, she landed herself a job with Zuru’s

time. I was having conversations with Mum and my partner telling them how trapped I felt. I was exhausted and depleted and I knew it wasn’t right … but I didn’t know where the next step was.” Enter her career coach, Bob Walker, who she calls her “saving grace”. “Bob pulled me out of it all and played a very key role in my transition to a new career. In coaching sessions with him, I was asked what I loved and what I hated. What I

what was important to me with my career in the long-term,” Leishman says. “He helped me get my CV looking really sharp. We worked out that, based on my long-term goals, I needed to get into a role that was either sales or marketing focused, to get that commercial experience I was after. Once we had my CV and LinkedIn looking its best, Bob encouraged me to explore all my connections.” Leishman did just that, sending the owner

brand Dose & Co. — the collagen powder that now has Khloe Kardashian as its brand ambassador and co-owner. As soon as she started at Zuru Edge, she felt a shift in herself. “I felt like it was a return to the old me,” she says. “It was the first time in such a long time that I felt like myself again. Hope had returned. I was excited and happy, capable and career-driven again. When I didn’t have that at TVNZ during the last chapter, I felt like I wasn’t myself. Walking through the doors to Zuru Edge on that first day, I thought, My god,

wanted to do if there were no boundaries and

of Zuru Edge (Zuru’s consumer business)

here I am again. Hello, Indi, it’s been a while.”

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ON TOP

HEALING HANDS Former producer for ZM’s Fletch, Vaughan

“When I was looking for something more fulfilling, all the jobs I wanted you had to be

& Megan show, Caitlin Marett had initially loved her job, but, as the years went on, she also started to feel unfulfilled. She adored her

a qualified nurse. I was 29, about to turn 30. I didn’t have a partner or kids, and nothing was holding me back. So, I thought, If I’m ever

team and felt “pretty bloody lucky” in her dayto-day role. But, in 2020, she decided to give

going to do it, I have to do it now.” From that point, things happened quickly.

it all up and become a nurse.

She ended up telling her team and her

“I went to my volunteer jobs at Ronald McDonald House, Make a Wish, and

boss about her plans even before she got accepted into the Masters of Health Science

Camp Quality, and that was my highlight of the week,” she says. “I felt like I was giving

Professional Practice (Nursing) course at Ara and the University of Canterbury.

back. I just started to think, I have these two hands, and I’d love to be able to physically do

“It was the hardest decision I ever had to make, leaving ZM,” she says. “I’m so grateful

something with them to help people.”

that I’m still in touch with them and talk

“I HAVE THESE TWO HANDS, AND I’D LOVE TO BE ABLE TO PHYSICALLY DO SOMETHING WITH THEM TO HELP PEOPLE.”

to them most days. I didn’t want to lose that friendship.” Now, Marett (who is also one-third of the popular podcast The Girls Uninterrupted and a marriage celebrant) has swapped the perceived glamour of the studio for the hospital, where she says that she recently spent three hours helping a man get phlegm out of his throat. “I thought, I can do faeces, vomit, and blood, but phlegm is that one thing I find tough,” she says laughing. “I went on my break and saw Fletch, Vaughn, and Megan had just jumped out of a plane, and I thought, Wow, what a change of career. But I went back to that man, and he said, ‘Thank you so much’, and I knew he felt better because I was there. I know it sounds cliché[d], but nursing really fills up my cup!” Not everyone understood Marett’s change of career. When she first told her mum, who is also a nurse, she was shocked. But once she saw her daughter’s passion for the profession, she understood. “She was like, ‘This is your calling — I can finally see it’,” says Marett. “I have so many great conversations with my mum now. Sometimes I even teach her new things as well. I call her Senior Nurse Marett, and I’m Junior Nurse Marett!” Not everyone was so supportive. What made Marett’s change of career difficult was the fact that she was in the public eye. And while the majority of people said, “Good on you”, others weren’t so positive. “I had some people being a bit negative towards my decision, because they see it from the outside. They see me going from an amazing successful job that was all sparkles to cleaning up poo and vomit for a living,” she says. “It was mostly people I didn’t know — some were nurses that have been in the profession for a long time and are jaded. I was never under the impression that it wasn’t going to be a stressful and challenging job, but recently I had a patient who was really unwell, and she asked for me. I went and held her hand and we sat there. There’s nothing that compares to that. There are times when I wonder if I’m doing the right thing and then something like that happens and I think, Absolutely!”

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AL G R O R U UT

TAKE NOTE

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FQ X ST CUT HB ERT’ S

Photography: Nikola Janusic

The World’s Her Stage When Kiwi dancer Ling Zhang isn’t busy performing with J. Lo at the Super Bowl, she’s owning the academic space by completing her degree at The University of Auckland. The former St Cuthbert’s College student shares the secret to her global success.

D

ance has always been a part of Ling’s life; she studied ballet

for a decade and jazz and contemporary for five years, but it was hip hop that really ignited a spark. “People talk about the moment it clicks for you. I’d never felt that way before, but as soon as I finished that class, I knew this was what I wanted to do. I felt alive and a fire within had been lit,” she explains. Ling was a school student at Auckland’s St Cuthbert’s College at the time and took the International Baccalaureate programme. She says balance in life is vital and credits her time at the school with developing the art of balancing her studies with a variety of extracurricular pursuits. “At St Cuthbert’s, we learnt how to thrive, even in challenging times. St Cuthbert’s is so great at cultivating good habits and instilling in girls that they can do anything they set their minds to if they work hard for it.” On graduating St Cuthbert’s, Ling was accepted into biomedicine at The University of Melbourne. However, in a courageous move, she followed her heart and successfully auditioned for Parris Goebel’s The Royal Family dance crew. “I am so incredibly grateful to have experienced what I have and owe it all to my mentors. A special mention to St Cuthbert’s Head of Dance, Laura-Beth Warne, for being one of the first people to believe in me and remind me to follow my heart,” Ling says. This led her to dance for the likes of

“Super Bowl with J. Lo was amazing,” says Ling. “We actually spent two months with her to prepare. She came in every day to practise and be a part of the creative process. Seeing two powerhouses like J. Lo and Parris work together was so inspiring. They’re both always striving to be better, even at their level, and their energy made you want to be the best

“It’s fine if your passion changes or if you don’t know what it is yet. Follow your curiosities, no matter how small, and try them all! “ she says. “Be open to every opportunity that comes your way and you never know when something will click for you.”

Rihanna, J. Lo, Justin Bieber, and Ciara, as well as travel the world and perform with The Royal Family on their show tours.

version of you.” Ling recommends that girls give everything a go and follow their curiosity.

help you or your children achieve their dreams by visiting stcuthberts.school.nz for more information.

Find out how St Cuthbert’s College could

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BREE & CLINT WEEKDAYS 3PM–7PM

PLAY ZM


PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

LIFE & CULTURE

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Cancelling

Cancel Culture Increasingly, this online phenomenon has become

a class issue, dividing society one angry tweet at a time. Here’s why we need to pivot to calling in, instead of calling out. WORDS ISABELLE TRUMAN 180

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LI F E & C ULT U RE

CATALYST FOR CHANGE When done right, cancel culture can be

on one person’s individual need to showcase their knowledge, no matter how recently

instrumental in effecting positive change, especially when concerning companies or people in power who would be near

that knowledge was learned or how much more constructive it would be to instead facilitate a conversation that allows for

impossible to hold accountable otherwise. In 2020, staff members of The Wing,

growth and learning. Situations then become inflamed because one person feels the other is

the US women’s only co-working space,

attacking who they are as a person. The result

which marketed itself as being a feminist utopia, set up an Instagram account named

is that instead of opening our minds to the other’s point of view, we focus on defending

flewthecoup where current and former staff members shared experiences of workplace

ourselves; on talking instead of listening. Because of this combative way we’re

discrimination, racism, and allegations of sexual assault. The stories shocked

interacting online, people are increasingly retreating to separate corners of the

The Wing’s 10,000 plus members — myself included — who were putting money into the

internet. A prime example is the division in the US surrounding former president

business because of the values it projected

Donald Trump. Liberals and the left often

externally, which it was severely lacking internally. Condé Nast title Bon Appétit

take the stance that anyone who voted for Trump is an idiot who deserves no airtime —

was another workplace to have a public reckoning during the Black Lives Matter

there is no point even trying to find common ground. But, when half of the country —

protests with the magazine’s editor of a decade, Adam Rapoport, outed for his racist

74 million people — believe in someone or something, surely it’s worth trying to understand why. The effect of this disconnect,

WHEN DONE RIGHT, CANCEL CULTURE CAN BE INSTRUMENTAL IN EFFECTING POSITIVE CHANGE

T

hough it feels like ‘cancel culture’ is a relatively new concept — one which has become so popular recently it’s now almost memeified — the term can be traced back to a 2014 episode of US reality TV show Love and Hip Hop: New York. Not long after, the term was picked up by Black Twitter. In 2013, the late British author and cultural theorist Mark Fisher wrote one of the first in-depth criticisms of the new online phenomenon, citing digital call-out culture as a reason for increased division between both political and socioeconomic classes. Nowadays, cancel culture is at the root of discourses surrounding digital and socialmedia activism, and the term has been used by everyone from actress Jameela Jamil to author JK Rowling. Cancel culture has been effective at combating sexism, racism, and various other kinds of harmful abuse or wrongdoing to others; it has held people and businesses accountable for their actions in ways that weren’t possible in the past, and has helped minority groups to reach the masses. But as the world has turned increasingly digital — and events have resulted in rising levels of stress, anxiety, and uncertainty — this culture around cancellation, public shaming, and humiliation has become increasingly toxic. As a result, many are calling for a new system that brings people together, instead of pushing them apart.

behaviour and the company coming under fire for instances where Black and people of colour staff members were severely underpaid compared with their white counterparts. Most recently, the hugely popular Gimlet Media podcast Reply All got two episodes into an investigation about the toxic workplace behaviour at Bon Appétit before the hosts themselves were called out on Twitter for contributing to that very culture at Gimlet Media. “Imagine making a podcast about workplace racism when you, yourself, have been incredibly racist! In the workplace!” a former staff member commented on Twitter. Online discourse is becoming increasingly hostile. Recently, people in Australia were called out for participating in Australia Day — also dubbed ‘Invasion Day’ for being set on the date of British colonisation and the subsequent murders of the country’s Indigenous population — despite some of the most prominent people doing this public shaming being at Australia Day parties exactly one year ago. Everywhere, people are being cancelled for appearing to not comply to Covid-19 guidelines, when very rarely anyone has bothered to ask the circumstances of their situation. This kind of performative activism — using Twitter’s 280-character limit to cancel someone, while simultaneously demonstrating how much you know on the topic — isn’t resolution focused. It’s focused

and of social-media algorithms as a whole, which show us content that aligns with our values in a bid to make profit off them, is people only communicating with those who agree with their rhetoric. In turn, this results in dangerous ideas being spread with no moderation. Anger is then reinforced by the platforms it takes place on. Studies have shown content that outrages is more likely to be shared because people are far more likely to comment on something if it angers them than if they agree with it. Online platforms therefore have an incentive to push forward the most extreme versions of every argument. In fact, a 2018 study found that on Twitter fake news spread six times faster than real news. As we saw on 6 January 2021 in the US with the attack on The Capitol, this digital fury can result in real-world violence.

RETHINKING CALLING OUT Cancel culture has also become a way for people to excuse themselves from publicly projecting dangerous beliefs. Notably, in 2020, a seemingly well-meaning Harper’s Magazine open letter signed by 153 prolific people, most of who were scholars and writers, was widely criticised. The letter condemned cancel culture, calling it an assault against free speech, but included figures such as JK Rowling, whose anti-trans rhetoric has resulted in one of the world’s most at risk minority groups facing even more violence and discrimination. This movement by the elite to co-op cancel culture proves that the topic has increasingly become a class issue. Responding to each perceived instance of wrongdoing with the same

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L IF E & C ULTU RE

punishment — social outcasting — ignores important distinctions of privilege when it

interested in exploring the link between this way of thinking and the way it contributes to

that it’s insensitive to celebrate Australia Day before publicly bashing them online.

comes to who suffers lasting consequences. Celebrities, such as chef Alison Roman, who was cancelled during Black Lives Matter,

wider society as a whole — most notably, the way it reinforces capitalism and supremacy. If we are all busy fighting each other online,

Looking back at Mark Fisher’s 2013 article, ‘Exiting the Vampire Castle’, the answer was already there for us all those years ago in

and comedian Louis CK, who was cancelled during #MeToo, have the means and

spending hours crafting the perfect public reply to ensure that we sound smart; concise;

plain sight: when it comes to cancel culture, “we need to learn, or re-learn, how to build

financial security to take six months away

and, most important, aloof, the result is that

from the spotlight before apologising and

we’re too distracted to look at the bigger

comradeship and solidarity instead of doing capital’s work for it by condemning and abusing each other. This doesn’t mean, of course, that we must always agree — on the contrary, we must create conditions where disagreement can take place without fear of exclusion and excommunication.”

returning to their jobs in some capacity. Everyday people often aren’t afforded such

picture or what could be done to change the problem at its core. The Wing may be gone,

luxuries. This division between power and

but the systems in place that allowed it to

class dynamics has prompted academics to point out the crucial difference between

thrive undetected for years are not. adrienne maree brown, the author of We

REQUIRED READING

punching up and punching sideways when it comes to cancel culture. The former a way to

Will Not Cancel Us: and Other Dreams of Transformative Justice agrees. Though she

Criticism of

enact real change in politics and corporations — yes, it’s perfectly fine to call out a powerful billionaire for spreading hate speech — and

encourages a move towards call-in culture, her theory goes a step further: brown hopes that society will eventually pivot to ‘transformative

the latter a way to shame, humiliate, and further divide society.

justice’, a concept which is centred on using community to facilitate healing. “If we want

Academic, activist, and author Loretta J Ross is one of the most prominent figures advocating for a shift to replace callout, or cancel culture, with call-in culture. Though she agrees that it can be beneficial when concerning people in power, she advocates it should otherwise be used as a last resort. The Smith College professor defines ‘calling in’ as being similar to calling out but done privately and with respect through messages, phone calls, or in-person discussion. In one of her online courses on the topic, Ross says, “Calling out assumes the worst. Calling in involves conversation, compassion and context. It doesn’t mean a person should ignore harm, slight or damage, but nor should she, he or they exaggerate it.” Ross says that we have to fight for human rights without violating human rights and follows the philosophy that a group of people thinking the same things and moving in the same direction is a cult, but a group of people thinking different things and moving in the same direction is a movement. Instead of rushing to publicly shame someone, she calls on us to put our egos aside and to go into conversations with the hope of facilitating real change. As actress Jameela Jamil put it while speaking on BBC’s Radio 5 about cancel culture in 2020, “I am a fallible human being. I try not to make mistakes but when I slip up, I refuse to then be cast away forever. Most human beings are capable of change and decency and doing better.” Instead of seeing cancel culture as its own

to transform systems like white supremacy, capitalism, patriarchy and ableism — systems which only work by rooting within us and distorting our view of the world — we must transform how we understand everything, including ourselves,” she says. “Once we liberate ourselves from the impossible idea that we can perform a political perfection, we can actually begin to acknowledge and uproot the systems from our own practices, relationships, and formations.”

separate microcosm, I’ve increasingly become

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STARTING A CONVERSATION What brown advocates for — transformative justice — is the process of society learning to centre relationships and resilience in community, and create processes of accountability that can actually end cycles of harm. Her approach seems radical at first, but it’s also one that thousands were chanting on the streets last year: abolition. An overhaul of the current way society addresses conflict. “We must relinquish the myth that punishment and public shaming ends harm,” she explains. Though it feels beyond comprehension to imagine helping people who’ve caused serious pain and suffering, Ross demonstrated how this can work back in the 1970s. Using her own story of sexual assault, she worked with incarcerated rapists to help facilitate growth and healing. As a result, the group formed Prisoners Against Rape, the US’s first antisexual assault programme led by men. If Ross can do that, surely we can send a direct/ private message asking if someone is aware

call-out culture doesn’t tend to come from those in society who can benefit from it. adrienne maree brown explores whether we can benefit from call-in culture through a Black, queer, and feminist lens in We Will Not Cancel Us.

We might think that our belief systems are well rationalised, but much of what we think and believe in comes down to intuition, says psychologist Jonathan Haidt. In his book The Righteous Mind, Haidt explains why we can all benefit from learning from those who disagree with us.

While delving into the history of public shaming, British journalist Jon Ronson still manages to pepper a good dose of humour throughout his 2015 title, So You’ve Been Publicly Shamed.

PHOTOGRAPHY UNSPLASH & SHUTTERSTOCK

“CALLING OUT ASSUMES THE WORST. CALLING IN INVOLVES CONVERSATION, COMPASSION AND CONTEXT”



Swipe Right Looking for love online? Fashion Quarterly talks with psycho-sexologist Chantelle Otten from Bumble about how to successfully navigate the ever-changing online dating world to find ‘the one’.


LI F E & C ULT U RE

R

swipe-right happy, she explains. And while dating apps do run the whole gamut of relationships — in Bumble Date,

As for finding someone special online or on an app, Otten says the best piece of advice to remember is that if you’re enjoying talking

you can select Relationship, Something

with someone, move it into the real world as

Casual, Don’t Know Yet, or Marriage under Looking For — Covid seems to have

soon as possible. “I really believe in dating anyone that you connect with and going on as

possibly worked in favour of those looking

many dates as possible, because that person

for something more serious. During the pandemic’s peak, Otten says that there was

might be great for you or they might not be great for you, but you need to meet someone

an entirely different dating landscape to the hook-up culture that some apps had become

in person to really know that,” she explains. Otten says there’s not really any such thing as

synonymous with. “We started doing more slow dating, because people weren’t allowed

too soon where dates are concerned: “Don’t waste your time. I don’t believe in lingering on

to go out and meet people,” she says. We had to stay home and, as a result, go back

the app. Apps like Bumble are designed to get you off the app and on a real-life date as soon

to a dating mentality: “We started getting to

as possible.”

“The expectations of millennials these days

know each other on a deeper level rather than searching for the next person and the next

Otten says that embracing the same upfront approach is always best. This goes for both

are so extreme,” says psycho-sexologist and Bumble spokeswoman Chantelle Otten. With

person and the next person.” It’s a shift that Otten believes is here to stay

successful and not-so-successful dates. While ghosting has become somewhat synonymous

a dire local housing crisis, more pressure than ever before to achieve those #careergoals

too. “It really has changed the way the people date, and it did make people slow down quite

with the world of dating apps, Otten advises not beating around the bush — be honest; it

and #fitnessgoals — which alone can feel like

a bit,” she says. “We’ve learnt more about the

might be awkward at first, but it will end up

a second full-time job — it’s no wonder that dating apps have become the norm. “We are

vulnerabilities of who we’ve been talking to because we’ve all been impacted from a

being easier for everyone involved. The same goes for successful dates too. She says forget

trying hard to build a life, build a career, to be

financial point of view, from a mental-health

about any outdated notions that sending a

able to afford a mortgage, and it’s an extreme amount of hard work and pressure.” At the end of the day, Otten says that for many of us this means we’re time and energy limited. “We don’t have as much time to go out and meet people as we once did.” Interestingly enough, a handful of studies in recent years back up Otten’s thought. According to numerous reports, millennials don’t drink, have as much sex, or go out previous generations, and a 2020 Pew analysis of Census Bureau data discovered that the majority of 18- to 34-year-olds in the US live at home with their parents.

point of view. A lot of people really shifted the way they were thinking about their entire lives, not just dating, and have reprioritised what was important to them.”

follow-up message after a date might be seen as needy: if you had a great time, let them know. And, at the end of the day, her numberone piece of advice is simple: “Be open.” After all, you never quite know who you might meet if you take a chance and swipe right.

And then, of course, there’s Covid-19, which has taken its toll on those hoping to meet someone IRL. “Before the pandemic, we were all travelling more; there was more opportunity to meet people,” explains Otten. But she’s quick to add that it certainly hasn’t been all doom and gloom where Covid’s impact is concerned. In fact, Otten believes that the pandemic is to thank for the dramatic shift in dating mentality over the course of the last year.

In their infancy, dating apps, such as Bumble, were launched with the primary purpose of helping people find partners. “But, as time went on, there was a bit of a shift, and some of the apps tend to promote more of a hook-up culture,” Otten says. As we’ve come to realise just how accessible people around

serious about connecting people rather than hook-ups,” she explains. Otten believes that it’s something that has helped instil a lot of confidence in women who use the platform. “You’re allowed to kind of showcase yourself and the way that you want to be perceived in your profile,” she says. And, rather than settle for the nearest eligible partner, Otten says that apps like Bumble empower women to find their perfect match. The dating pool really is at your fingertips. Not only do women make that first move, but, unlike other platforms, pictures can also be verified — so you know that who you’re talking to is exactly who they say they are. And, more recently, Bumble has banned body shaming from the app. The move bans unsolicited and derogatory comments made about appearance, body shape, size, or

photos with heavy filters applied to them and using group photos. “It’s hard for potential matches to know who they’re talking to,” she says. As for red flags to keep an eye out for, Otten says that if you pick up on the fact that someone doesn’t share your values, it’s usually best to just move on. “There are plenty of people out there that will have the same values as you. And, of course, being aware and being savvy is the

us can be and how easy it is to find someone with a simple swipe of the smartphone, it’s only natural that some of us have gone a little

health and extends to language that can be deemed fat-phobic, ableist, racist, colourist, homophobic, or transphobic.

best way to be.”

ewind 20 odd years and the online dating world was certainly

something you didn’t speak openly about. Mention that you met your partner, your husband, or your wife online in 2021, and no one bats an eyelid. And while it’s easy to point to the ubiquity of smartphones and social media for the rise of online dating, ask anyone who’s currently looking for love, and they’ll soon tell you — it’s not always easy to meet someone in real life. For many, the days of meeting someone through friends or family or at work seem to be over. So, apart from the undeniable rise of and reliance on smartphone tech, what’s changed exactly?

REDIFINING DATING

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY STOCK

A NEW ERA

IT’S A MATCH Naturally, dipping your toes into the online dating world can be a little daunting, especially when it’s a serious relationship that you’re after. But, as Otten points out, female-founded Bumble has taken various steps to ensure that it’s a safe space for women. “Women make the first move, and that’s definitely helped the narrative — that it is a platform that is really

APP DATING 101 Otten says don’t overthink it when you’re curating your online dating profile, but there are a few things you should be mindful of. She suggests steering clear of using

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PITCHER PERFECT

The latest drop of handblown cups, carafes and vases have just landed at Monmouth Glass Studio. The pieces that feature a very apt autumnal colour palette hues of red wine, apricot, orange, amber, and lemon yellow are a welcome addition to our home. Shop the collection in the Grey Lynn studio or online at monmouthglassstudio.com now.

MAGICAL MUSHROOMS Mushrooms have long been praised for their remarkable health benefits, and now two Kiwi friends, Jessica Clarke and Emily Blanchett, are harnessing the immunity-boosting properties of mushrooms with Mother Made. “We wanted to create a health and beauty product that made us feel and look better, that’s also uncomplicated and conscious of the planet,” explains Blanchett. Made from various adaptogenrich mushrooms, including reishi and shiitake, Mother Made launches with AM and PM blended powders and three capsules: Relax, Brain, and Energy.

Life & Culture

Notebook

FQ rounds up what’s new in wellness, dining, and can’tmiss-it events, because life is all about balance, after all.

S AV E T H E D A T E After a tumultuous 2020 and an interrupted 2021 season, the Auckland Arts Festival has been extended until 11 April. The celebration of arts and culture has launched once again with a 100-per-cent Aotearoa collection of events and performances dedicated to celebrating the the ever-so-timely theme of aroha.

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WHAT TO WATCH

Nip what-should-we-watch indecisiveness in the bud — Nose: The Most Secret Job in the World is the documentary you don’t want to miss this autumn. Filmed over the course of two-and-half years, Nose takes us behind closed doors and into the world of one of the greatest noses in history, François Demachy, Dior’s perfume creator. The film follows Demachy from his hometown and the birthplace of perfume, Grasse, France, through his career, giving viewers an intimate look at the highly secretive world of perfumery. Stream Nose right now on Amazon Prime Video or Apple TV.


LI F E & C ULT U RE

OPPOSITES ATTRACT

Auckland’s hot healing sanctuary, Hana, has added another sought-after treatment to its wellness menu. Contrast therapy involves spending 20 minutes in a private infrared sauna before immersing yourself in an ice bath for two minutes. Exposure to the two temperature extremes could help boot the immune system and speed up muscle recovery. “The immediate effect of the hot/cold combo is invigorating. It enhances all your senses, and you feel quite incredible,” explains Hana founder Sara Higgins.

WINE & DINE Three years in the making, The Hunting Lodge HomeBlock 2019 has landed. “2019 was an outstanding vintage — warm, dry conditions and low yields produced ripe fruit with great concentration. This is undoubtedly our best vintage released to date,” says chief winemaker Pete Turner. Enjoy it now, or take Turner’s advice and cellar it for five years.

N AT U R A L B E A U T Y Weave is embracing the change of seasons and welcoming in autumn with the lushest of hues and textures in its latest seasonal drop. Our favourite autumnal colour palette — think spicy shades of terracotta, rich merlot hues, burnt umber, and Mother Nature–inspired shades of green — comes to life with must-have cushions, rugs, and woollen throws. Visit weavehome.co.nz to peruse and shop the pieces.

BLOOMING GORGEOUS Collaborative social-impact platform Asili has just released a handful of very special new pieces — including pots, vases and vessels — for your home. Like the above-pictured ‘Soapstone’ flower pot, each piece is made to order by hand by Fairtrade-certified artisans in Uganda and Kenya. Because every collection is small and thoughtfully produced, every design and purchase directly impacts the artisans and the communities who create them. Visit asili.co to find out more. FQ.CO.NZ

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WHAT TO READ

Auckland Writers Festival Waituhi O Tāmaki returns this May with a star-studded literary line-up. Discover some of FQ’s picks from the festival.

EGG-CELLENT

Why not leave the chocolate eggs for the kids and indulge in a little adult-only Easter fun? Created with grown-ups in mind, Black Pineapple’s new bespoke Easter cocktail kit is a twist on a classic 20th-century cocktail with gin, lemon, and a hint of chocolate. But it wouldn’t be a true Easter treat without hot-cross bun flavours added to the mix. PX sherry adds a dash of spice and richness, while an adorable dark chocolate bunny is the icing on one very delicious cocktail. Visit blackpineapple.co.nz to order your kit.

DON’T MISS: FASHION FWD

If Dunedin wasn’t already on your must-visit destination list for 2021, now it will be, as Fashion FWD >> Disruption Through Design opens at the Otago Museum in late March. Bringing together both local talent and designers from around the glove — including selected iD Emerging Designers finalists — the exhibition is a celebration of fabulous frocks, couture, industry disruptors, and the joy that fashion brings us. Fashion FWD >> Disruption Through Design will be on display at Otago Museum until 17 October.

DINNER WITH A TWIST Fine dining and art collide as Euro welcomes a new head chef and local artist into the fold for a one-of-kind autumn dining experience. Kiwi-born Samoan chef Uelese Mua will take the reins of Euro’s kitchen, while five works of queer artist Hōhua Ropate Kurene will complement the new menu. Working alongside Nourish Group’s executive chef Gareth Stewart, Mua’s autumnal offering will revolve around seasonal moana (seafood), māra (garden), and whenua (land). Don’t miss the snapper ‘on the bone’ with XO butter and lime, and the fermented heirloom tomatoes with flatbread.

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Kazuo Ishiguro Nobel laureate and author of acclaimed novels The Remains of the Day and Never Let Me Go discusses his body of work and latest book, Klara and the Sun.

Garance Doré French photographer, illustrator, blogger, and author of New York Times bestseller Love X Style X Love, Doré explores her writing and personal growth as a woman and artist.

Monique Fiso Acclaimed chef Monique Fiso has garnered critical acclaim over the years and has most recently added Ockham New Zealand Book Awards–shortlisted book Hiakai to her resume.


FQ X RESEN E

RESENE DEL RIO

RESENE CARDIN GREEN

RESENE IRISH COFFEE

COLOUR P L AY

SPICE OF LIFE Spicy terracotta, ochre, and cinnamon signal the arrival of autumn. But there’s nothing to stop you from embracing these hues all year round. Resene Hot Chile, Resene La Bamba, and Resene Moroccan Spice add a splash of colour to your chosen living space but are versatile enough to be paired with your existing decor.

RESENE HOT CHILE

The runway has all the inspiration you need this season. Let lush greens, alwayson-trend neutral hues, and pops of spicy shades warm up your abode.

RESENE PACIFIKA

RESENE SPITFIRE

RESENE SORRELL BROWN

SECOND NATURE A change of seasons brings a fresh new approach to colour with it. While we often turn to Mother Nature as our muse for our wardrobe’s colour palette, this season we’re inviting the outdoors inside our homes too. Enduring neutral hues — such as Resene Navarone and Resene Del Rio — are great starting points. Partner the delicate neutrals with accents or feature walls in rich chocolatey shades, or introduce a vibrant hint of olive or forest green. Visit your Resene ColorShop for more inspiration.

RESENE LA BAMBA

RESENE NAVARONE

RESENE PRAVDA RESENE MOROCCAN SPICE

Colours are depicted as accurately as the printing process allows. Always trial your favourites using Resene testpots before making your final choice.

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THE PANIC YEARS

When Pandora Sykes and Dolly Alderton recommend a book, you know it’s going to be a good read. With the recently released guide The Panic Years, renowned journalist Nell Frizzell provides a loving embrace for all women currently navigating the answers to the age-old, grown-up question: Should I have a baby? A bible for the in-between years, after adolescence and before menopause, Frizzell provides an honest yet hilarious account of her panic years, while hand-holding you through yours too.

BURNT SUGAR

2020 Booker–shortlisted novel by Avni Doshi tells the story of mother and daughter, and the unconventional role reversal that Antara must now employ with her mother, Tara, who is declining in health and memory. Set in Pune, India, and written over seven years, Doshi explores the themes of identity, co-authorship of memory, resentment, and obsession that binds a maternal relationship.

The FQ Book Club Snuggle up with one of our

recommended reads this autumn.

MILK FED

Melissa Broder’s latest masterpiece, Milk Fed delves into the mind of twenty-something Rachel, who is encouraged to take a 90-day communication detox from her calorie-counting mother. Soon after this detox begins, Rachel becomes entangled with Miriam, a zaftig young Orthodox Jewish woman who takes her on a funny yet frank journey of self-exploration — of vulnerability, physical hunger, sexual desire, and spirituality.

LOVED CLOTHES LAST

If you too are an activist — or aspiring activist — for sustainability in fashion, then this is the read for you. Fashion Revolution founder Orsola de Castro details exactly how you can make a difference to your fashion consumption and explains the environmental challenges that our planet faces as a result. From scrutinising your everyday shopping habits to a deep dive into clothing after-care, de Castro offers the most practical of tips to spark joy in re-wearing and repairing your wardrobe — ensuring that your love for fashion will not cost the earth.

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HOW BEAUTIFUL WE WERE

The New York Times bestselling author Imbolo Mbue is back with her second novel, a powerful yet heartwrenching story set in a fictional African village fraught with fear amid the environmental toxicity of an American oil company. Written from the perspectives of children and the family of a soon-to-be revolutionist, Thula, the novel explores the recklessness of capitalism and the people’s courage and resilience — in the face of colonialism — in keeping a land that is so rightly theirs.


FQ X L E XUS

BE H IND TH E W HE E L

L EXUS IS 2 02 1 Fashion Quarterly hops into the driver’s seat and puts the all-new Lexus IS through its paces.

L

uxury and affordability haven’t

incredibly smooth and a dream to handle.

with the all-new IS 2021 range. While Lexus

always been synonymous with one another as far motoring is

In fact, the remarkably responsive nature of the IS makes it feel like it was created with

has tried to distance itself from its parent company Toyota to carve out its own niche

concerned, but Lexus continues

New Zealand driving conditions in mind. No

in the European-dominated luxury market,

to push the boundaries, combining the best of both worlds with the new 2021 IS range.

corner too sharp or road too unpredictable, the IS reacts seamlessly to its driver’s

it’s worth reminding yourself just who made this car. The IS 2021 has all the bells and

With seven variants available, there is a Lexus 2021 IS that is sure to check all the boxes.

desire. Lighter, stronger, and lower than its predecessors, the agility of the IS means that

whistles you’d expect from a serious player in the luxury sphere but with a resolute

Hybrid purchases make up about 70 per cent of Lexus sales, so it’s likely that the IS 300h

it’s able to combine the best of both worlds — the IS is not only incredibly comfortable to

commitment to customer satisfaction and reliability, which shouldn’t be underestimated

will be the star of the show. And because

drive but full of pep and fun too.

when investing in a new car.

the 300h variants are all powered by the innovative Lexus self-charging hybrid electric

Noteworthy performance aside, this is one good-looking sedan. The head-turning coupé-

system, it means that you never have to worry

like silhouette exudes luxury and elegance,

about plugging in and charging overnight. Unwavering petrolheads are appeased too with the F Sport 2.0-litre petrol turbo sedan and Limited model. Then, for those who desire luxury that packs a little more punch, there’s the racy 3.5-litre V6 F Sport.

and each variant is somewhat customisable with a range of various exterior and interior options available. Plus, as well as keeping you safe with the Lexus Safety System+ — guaranteed to give you peace of mind whenever you’re on the road — the IS range has everything you need at your fingertips for a more connected experience whenever you’re on the go.

THE EXPERIENCE Lexus has taken a human-centred approach with the design of the 2021 IS line-up, and this is apparent from the very moment you get behind the wheel. Designed to create a one-of-a-kind unity between car and driver, the 2021 IS embodies the Lexus Driving Signature, meaning intuition like no other — the IS quick to react to whoever is in the driver’s seat. Unsurprisingly, with this clever tech in mind, on the open road, the IS is

THE VERDICT When you mention ‘luxury’ and ‘motoring’ in the same sentence, European brands tend to spring to mind. But, over the years, Lexus has been working hard to successfully challenge this notion. After all, luxury should be enduring and reliable too, which is something Lexus has achieved once again

NEED TO KNOW

• Pricing starts at $70,900 for the 8AT 2.0-litre petrol turbo sedan and goes up to $101,800 for the 3.5-litre 8AT V6 F Sport. • The F Sport is available in three exclusive colours: Cobalt Blue, Infrared, and White Nova. • Choose from a range of interior options, including Nuluxe on the entry models or leather-accented upholstery on the F Sport and Limited models. • All other models are available in Titanium, Sonic Shade, Sonic Iridium, and Graphite Black. Sonic Quartz, Burgundy, and Celestial Blue. • Entry models have new 18-inch alloy wheels, while the F Sport and Limited grades receive 19-inch alloy wheels. The IS 350 F Sport has unique 19-inch BBS matte black forged alloys.

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Off the

Beaten Track To conjure up their dream wedding at a rugged west coast beach town, digital content creator Rosalie and her husband Myles Taylor needed the help of their village. WORDS SARAH MURRAY

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hen digital content creator Rosalie and husband Myles Taylor revisited a bushwalk track in Piha, they knew it was the place for their wedding. “When we saw that clearing, we just instantly knew it was perfect,” says Rosalie. It was an unconventional choice. A clearing, about 1km into the walking track, nestled among the lush greenery of the

W

Caterers: Côte Catering Photographer: Sapphire Studios Groom’s wedding band: Campbell Taylor Bride’s wedding band: Naveya & Sloane

Piha bush. The secluded sanctuary, under a canopy of nikau palms, provided a space for their ceremony and became the starting point of their wedding day — a day where every aspect was handpicked to showcase their signature style. And like what was to follow, it was a vibe that was all their own. Think wooden signs with David Bowie quotes hanging from the trees (made by the groom’s dad), single white flowers temporarily planted in the soil alongside the aisle, and an intertwining driftwood arch where they exchanged vows. Wearing a timeless and chic low-back gown from Hera Couture and KHYA x Alias Mae heels (which were just the right height and width for the uneven terrain), Rosalie had a lengthy walk to the makeshift altar. “It was so beautiful but it did mean that the

Flowers: Ruth Fiona Floral Dress: Hera Couture

was so nervous that she whispered, “Am I allowed to hold your hand?” “He was like, ‘Of course you can’,” she says, smiling as she retells the story. “And in that moment, I thought, I’m getting married. That moment right there for me, it was such a high.” Piha was the obvious choice for the nuptials. The west coast beach with its black sand and rugged topography has always held a special place in their hearts — Myles’s family have a bach there that has been in the family for generations, and the pair got

while. Rosalie immediately started looking at certain concepts for the wedding, but she soon realised that wasn’t the best idea. “We started really hot. I feel like that might have been a mistake. Two years is a long time and you’re all over Instagram and looking at new trends,” she says. “So we stopped for at least eight months. We decided to start planning our wedding a year in advance. I’m really happy we did that, because my vision changed.” The end result? A festival chic wedding with a relaxed retro vibe. After the ceremony, 160

aisle was very long — it was about a 15-minute walk — so it was pretty crazy,” she says. When she eventually made it to Myles, she

engaged on the iconic landmark Lion Rock. The couple decided on a long engagement, as they liked the idea of having ‘a fiancé’ for a

guests were invited back to the family bach where two white marquees were erected. There was a larger one in the front yard filled

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with lounge suites, bar leaners, and DJs, and a smaller one at the back of the property that served as a quiet zone for people who wanted a coffee or a rest. What made the marquees so unique were the handmade chandeliers crafted out of dried hydrangeas that hung from the ceilings. Although the couple used a local florist, it was both of their mothers who took it upon themselves to dry the hydrangeas, which, along with lanterns, also adorned trees. “Our mums wanted to do the hydrangeas so we were like, ‘Go for it’. They did so many — it was really cool. We asked if we could take some from people’s houses, and we bought some too, but quite a few were wild from the roadside.” The reception playfully mixed traditional wedding formalities, such as speeches and a cake, with other aspects the couple wanted. There were several DJs playing loud music throughout the evening, vodka shots, and a food truck serving poke bowls. With no seating plan or traditional sit-down dinner, Rosalie had put together crates filled with a picnic blanket and a candle, so, when dinner was served, everyone gathered into groups, laid down their blanket, flipped their crate upside down to use as a table, and put their candle on it. “I wanted people to be doing shots at the bar and walking around in bare feet, but I also wanted the formalities of a normal wedding,” says Rosalie. “I guess that gave it more of that festival vibe, which was exactly what we wanted.” The set up came naturally to Myles, who is not only the brand manager for Phoenix Organics but also a DJ and party

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Bride’s shoes: KHYA x Alias Mae

planner. Although Rosalie was involved in all the decisions, she admits that it was actually Myles who executed most of the plans. “In terms of the bride taking control, it was the opposite,” she says, laughing. “I took a step back and let Myles do his thing. He loves it. We have the same taste, so he would put options in front of me, but it was pretty much him. Myles really rolled out 80 to 90 per cent of the wedding, which was pretty unique.” Hosting the reception at the family bach meant that the couple had to bring everything in and largely set it up themselves. That’s where their rather large bridal parties (there were nine bridesmaids and nine groomsmen!) came in to lend a hand alongside family and friends. Everyone had something to do. Even

“The week of the wedding was intense,” says Rosalie. “You can make lists for months, but there is a certain point you’ve actually got to do it. The main challenge was that we didn’t really know if it was going to work or how the flow was going to be. We had to take a bit of a gamble with it all.” The set up started on the Wednesday prior to the wedding, and, on the Friday night before, Rosalie was still walking around in active wear and bare feet doing the finishing touches. “It was really hard work,” she admits. “There was lots of heavy lifting and moving furniture. We put fairy lights in every single tree, which took hours. I was told I didn’t need to be there, but it was in my nature — I wanted to be there and see it all come together.” Every aspect of the day also had a special meaning. From the white Mercedes that they borrowed from a friend (after their vintage car broke down on the way to Piha that week) to the retro-style suits made by groomsman and Stolen Girlfriends Club founder and creative director Marc Moore. The groom’s ring was made by a cousin of Myles, and the caterers, photographer, and DJs were all friends of the couple. “Myles and I really wanted everyone to play a part. The biggest thing we have in common is that we bring people together,” says Rosalie. “It was really special for us [to involve everyone]. It ended up being a reflection

the maid of honour and mother of the bride spent hours gluing shells to wine glasses in the lead up to the big day.

of our wedding. Everything had a special meaning because it was our style, it was what we wanted and what we loved.”

Make-up: Beauty by Alexandra Suits: Stolen Girlfriends Club Bridesmaids’ dresses: Designer Wardrobe Marquees: Raj Tent Club NZ

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COV ET

P L AC E I N THE SUN Louis Vuitton’s latest scent will whisk you away to a dreamy sun-dappled destination.

HAPPY DAYS If you’ve found yourself endlessly daydreaming of sun-drenched summer days, the latest creation by Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud for Louis Vuitton is the fragrance you need in your life. The maison’s master perfumer turns to notes of yuzu, neroli, and aromatic herbs to evoke the exuberant emotion of days spent in the sun, surf, and sand. “It opens with brightness and becomes a caress,” explains Cavallier-Belletrud. “Yuzu creates that brilliance. It’s a cardinal, lively note that sweeps into an explosion of freshness. Then comes calming neroli, the sun-drenched essence of orange blossom. Thyme, rosemary, pink pepper, and cloves are discreet but essential to the landscape because they help create a summer ambience. A veil of cypress signs the scene, like benevolent, woody shade on a cloudless day.” Louis Vuitton On The Beach, EDP 100ml, $490, 200ml, $765.

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The story that stays with you. When a moment becomes a memory. When a tale twists to reveal a surprise.

Fable Hotels & Resorts curate exceptional stays, guest by guest, in remarkable accommodation around New Zealand. Where iconic meets aesthetic, each location presents an unforgettable story of its own, waiting for you to create memories.

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