MAHALO MARGARITA is a give-back cocktail program where on premise accounts donate a portion of sales from their MAHALO MARGARITA, made with Tradicional 100% agave tequila, to AccesSurf. Jose Cuervo® will match the proceeds up to $25k. Together, this joint donation of $50k would go to support surf experiences and more for a full year.
BIG ISLAND
Huggo's
Lava Lava
Kai Eats
MAUI
Sergio's Cantina
Sheraton Maui
KAUA'I HOTELS
Friendly Waves
Lava Lava Beach Club
OAHU
Kuhio Avenue Food Hall / Waikiki
Kelly O’Neil's / Waikiki
Jorge's / Haleiwa
El Ranchero / Kapolei
El Ranchero / Wahiawa
Mekiko Cantina / Ko’olina
Restaurant 604 / Arizona Memorial
The Beachouse by 604 / Waianae
60 Fore Bar & Grill / Barber’s Point
604 Clubhouse / Leilehua
604 Ale House / Schofield
Mangiamo’s / Navy Marine Golf
OAHU HOTELS
Sheraton Waikiki Hotel
Royal Hawaiian Hotel
Moana Surfrider Hotel
Princess Kaiulani Hotel
Marriott Waikiki Hotel
FREE PARKING
Jamie O'Brien, Waimea Bay
Photo Brian Bielmann
EDITORIAL
Editor / Publisher Mike Latronic
Photo Director
Brian Bielmann
Art Director
John Weaver
Business Administration
Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219
Sales Associate
Keola Latronic
West Coast Distribution & Sales
Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128
Distribution & Advertising Inquiries ml@freesurfmagazine.com
Staff Shooters
Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver
Contributing Writers
Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Nicole Nason, Amanda Blackwell, Kaea Latronic
Contributing Photographers
Christa Funk, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Eric Aeder, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen
FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i and Southern California. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com
Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.
One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2024
Kahealani Papke Photo Brent Bielmann
conner coffin
EDITOR'S NOTE
By Mike Latronic
After attending Surf Expo last month, I was inspired by the mix of new brands, gadgets, and innovations, as well as the exciting offerings from legacy brands. What stood out the most was how seamlessly these old and new companies coexist. (Perhaps all us humans could take that note.)
The Expo also coincided with the grand finale of the WSL Championship Tour, which added to the excitement as the world’s best surfers battled it out at Trestles. Any selfrespecting surfer was glued to one of the many widescreen TVs streaming the WSL webcast. Congrats to John John Florence and Caity Simmers!
Along with these big WSL events and the crowning of new world champions, this issue highlights a man who’s become an icon in modern surfing—Jamie O’Brien. While Jamie found success in professional surfing, the contest circuit was never his true calling. Known for his fearless approach to some of the world’s most dangerous waves, Jamie blends a new-school style with a deep respect for surfing’s roots. I’ve followed his journey for nearly three decades, and what fascinates me most is not just his surfing, but how he’s expanded his influence beyond the ocean. From YouTube to social media, Jamie is doing for this generation what the legacy brands have done for past ones—showing that surfing is more than just a sport; it’s a way of life.
Jamie shares what keeps him psyched and how, even after all these years, he’s still finding new ways to have fun. What makes Jamie even more special is his tribe—his friends, all “cave dwellers,” who have shaped his journey. Their playground is Pipeline, and their camaraderie embodies the essence of surfing: freedom, fun, and a sense of belonging. Jamie has always marched to the beat of his own drum, and now, newly married, he’s as busy as ever with new projects that keep him both in the ocean and center stage at Pipeone of
world’s most iconic
Caity Simmers and John John Florence Win 2024 World Titles at Lexus WSL Finals
Caity Simmers (USA) and John John Florence (HAW) claimed historic wins at the Lexus WSL Finals, the final event of the season for the World Surf League (WSL) 2024 Championship Tour (CT), and were crowned the 2024 World Champions. Both Simmers and Florence entered the Lexus WSL Finals as the No. 1 seeds and became the first duo to hold their place since the inaugural WSL Finals in 2021, won by Carissa Moore (HAW) and Gabriel Medina (BRA).
Caity Simmers Claims Maiden World Title, Becomes Surfing's Youngest World Champion on the CT
After a sport-changing season, 18-year-old Caity Simmers (USA) capped off 2024 with her first World Title today as she continues to lead surfing’s progression to another level. The pride of Oceanside, California, Simmers’ incredible showing in the Title Match against reigning WSL Champion Caroline Marks (USA) pushed her performance to historic feats, accruing the highest heat total of the WSL Finals so far, an 18.37 (out of a possible 20). Marking the first women’s World Title for California in 40 years, Simmers was hoisted up by some of her closest friends and surrounded by her family and Oceanside community.
In her second season on Tour, Simmers claimed CT wins at the Lexus Pipe Pro, Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, and Vivo Rio Pro and made her Olympic debut all in just nine months.
“It means so much,” Simmers said. “I literally was going through every single emotion today, and it just feels crazy.
I can’t believe it. I was feeling so much love today from everyone. You can look at it that it’s all for yourself or you can look at it like it’s for those people who support me.”
The Women’s Title Match went to three heats for just the second time in Finals history after Marks claimed victory in Title Match 1. Despite Simmers getting the advantage in the opening exchange and posting an excellent 8.50 (out of a possible 10), backed up by an 8.33, Marks kept pace, closing the match out with a near-perfect 9.60, the highest single wave score for women in the Finals.
Caitlin Simmers and John John Florence after winning the 2024 World Title at the Lexus WSL Finals. Photo by Thiago Diz/WSL
News & Events / Lexus WSL Finals
Undeterred, Simmers opened Title Match 2 with her powerful, progressive form to post a 9.17 and eclipse Marks’ opening wave. Marks answered right back with an 8.00 before Simmers found herself in the spot for a Lower Trestles dreamer to attack from start to finish with her signature flair and power. Her efforts garnered another near-perfect 9.20 that had the Oceanside fans in attendance erupting on the beach as she posted her historic heat total.
Fireworks ensued in the winner-take-all third match. Simmers opened up with her forehand attack to post a 6.33, while Marks’ backhand daggers earned a solid 7.17. But, Simmers eyed down another gem and blasted an excellent 8.33, courtesy of multiple powerful hammers, to seize control and claim her maiden World Title.
“I wanted to go out there and just dance and surf how I wanted to surf and not surf like there was so much weight on it,” Simmers said. “Everyone’s here because surfing is so great. We’re just out there riding waves.”
John John Florence Returns Atop the World for Historic Third World Title
At a young age, John John Florence (HAW) was labeled a future World Title contender, and he made those dreams a reality in 2016 and 2017. After a laborious seven years of
injury-plagued seasons that saw him become a two-time Olympian, husband, and father, Florence returned to the top of the world for his historic third World Title.
The 31-year-old spoiled Brazil’s initial storm with his maiden World Title in 2016, after Adriano de Souza (BRA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) won back-to-back in 2014 and 2015, respectively. Now, after six years of Brazilian dominance, Florence has ended that streak once more to join the likes of Medina, Andy Irons (HAW), Mick Fanning (AUS), Tom Curren (USA), and more with three World Titles.
Three-time WSL Champion John John Florence Photo Tony Heff/WSL
Caitlin Simmers Photo Pat Nolan/WSL
News & Events / Lexus WSL Finals
“I’m tearing up," Florence said. “I can’t believe it. The last seven years have been so tough. There were so many injuries, and just fighting back to being in this position. My family, my wife, my son, my team, everyone. I couldn’t have done it without them because of the injuries and the down days and just so much going into these last few years to get to this point.”
A battle of WSL Champions unfolded in men’s Title Match 1 between Florence and Italo Ferreira (BRA), the 2019 World Champion. A slow start gave way to a fiery performance from Ferreira, who put Florence in an early combination. Florence answered with a 7.17, before staying extremely patient while Ferreira built his scoreline. Requiring an 8.16 in the fading moments, Florence was gifted a Lower Trestles gem that he unloaded his power and progression on for each critical section to earn an excellent 8.33, turning the heat as the horn sounded.
Taking his confidence from Match 1, Florence opened up the crucial Match 2 with a near-perfect 9.70, the single-highest score in WSL Finals history, to deliver a definitive statement and clinch the victory with his trademark layback. Ferreira posted two excellent rides of his own but was left needing a near-perfect 9.96 when the buzzer sounded, allowing Florence to claim his long-awaited third World Title and even the Title count with his greatest rival, Gabriel Medina (BRA).
“What a day,” Florence said. “It’s been a really hard road getting here. It feels really good to be done and to win again. The list of names that have three World Titles is pretty incredible, and to be part of that now is really fun. I’m stoked to tie it with Gabe [Medina], because he’s such a fierce competitor, and we qualified at the same time.”
For highlights and more information about the 2024 Lexus WSL Finals, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.
2024 Lexus WSL Finals Women's Results:
Women's Title Match 3: Caitlin Simmers (USA) 15.16 DEF.
Caroline Marks (USA) 7.17
Women's Title Match 2: Caitlin Simmers (USA) 18.37 DEF.
Caroline Marks (USA) 14.17
2024 Lexus WSL Finals Men's Results:
Men's Title Match 2: John John Florence (HAW) 18.13 DEF.
Italo Ferreira (BRA) 16.30
Men's Title Match 1: John John Florence (HAW) 15.50 DEF.
Italo Ferreira (BRA) 15.33
Griffin Colapinto
Photo Tony Heff / WSL
SALLY COHEN MUSIC VIBES
Are you Experienced - Jimi Hendrix
One of the best rock albums of all timeAnyone that knows me knows that I’m a daddy’s girl. And my dad loved Jimi Hendrix so I grew up listening to it and playing my dad’s old vinyls on my record player. Not only is the album cover itself bitchin’, every song in this album is undeniably good.
When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go? by Billie Eilish
This might surprise some people who wouldn't expect me to enjoy this kind of modern, "girly" music. Despite its pop appeal, the album is pretty dark, with eerie melodies and haunting lyrics that show Billie's unique edge. I think Billie is a total badass—she’s unapologetically herself and doesn’t care what anyone thinks, which is something I really respect. And you’re lying if you say we don’t all have a dark side…
Green River - Creedence Clearwater
The Thief in Marrakesh Got Caught in Amsterdam Trying to Escape by Arc De Soleil
This is the quintessential surfer vibe album, capturing laid-back style and surfy melodies, this album is perfect for anyone looking to get into a flow state, whether riding waves or just vibing at the beach. Listening to it makes you feel like you're chasing the perfect wave, wherever that might be.
Rumours- Fleetwood Mac
Rumours by Fleetwood Mac is an album I absolutely love—it's a classic that never gets old. Fleetwood Mac is one of my alltime favorite bands, and seeing them live would be a dream come true. While I love all their albums, Rumours stands out for me, especially with songs like "Second Hand News." That track brings a bit of humor, especially if you know the surf world and "coconut wireless" gossip—it’s funny and a little icky at the same time! Plus, it's got that perfect surf vibe, and not to mention, "Dreams", my brother-in-law Jamie's favorite song.
I love Creedence Clearwater Revival (CCR) so much—their music always gets me pumped to grab a shortboard and rip. When I was at WACO earlier this year, my good friend Tyler asked what we should play on the loudspeakers, and I immediately requested CCR. It was the best session ever, with that classic rock vibe adding to the stoke in the water.
Photo Brian Bielmann
The Maverick of Surfing and Digital Influence
JAMIE O'BRIEN
By Mike Latronic
In the world of surfing, there are those who ride waves, then there are those who redefine what it means to be a surfer. Jamie O’Brien is the latter. One such maverick—a professional surfer whose name has become synonymous with fearlessness, innovation, and the relentless pursuit of fun and passion. The business of JOB is just as impressive.
Born and raised on the North Shore of ‘Oahu, JOB didn't hatch as an uber-talented surfing phenom, but he certainly had help from his supportive parents, surroundings, and influence. His parents are Australian and father Mick just so happened to be a North Shore lifeguard so young James was introduced to the ocean, and in particular Pipeline, at a very early age. In his formative years Jamie was taller and more lanky than most of
his schoolmates and oftentimes, although pulling all the moves, appeared a bit slower and -even clumsy. Blessed with more than a few double jointed bones and a fiercely competitive nature, JOB’s awkward phase was all but gone in his early teens and by his late teens, he’d already carved a name for himself in the fiercely competitive Hawaiian surfing scene. Most notably, O’Brien won the Pipeline Masters at just 21—a feat that firmly positioned him among the elite.
But what set Jamie apart is not just his extraordinary tube riding skill and antics on the board, it was his willingness to challenge the status quo. While most surfers his age were focused solely on competitions and sponsorship deals, Jamie took a different path. Understanding the
changing dynamics of media and the growing influence of digital platforms, he ventured into the world of content creation. I know this first-hand, as I had supplied some of the clips that went into his first movie. After doing DVDs and movies JOB made a smart and timely move to get on Youtube. His YouTube channel, “Who is JOB,” became an instant hit, blending jawdropping surf footage with humor, adventure, and a behind-the-scenes look at the life of a professional surfer.
Photo Brent Bielmann
Today, with millions of followers across various social media platforms, Jamie O’Brien is not just a surfer—he’s a brand, an entertainer, an innovator and one of the most successful entrepreneurs in the surfing spectrum today.
In this interview, we dive deep into the life of Jamie O’Brien—his early years, his unconventional career choices, and his views on the future of surfing and digital media. Whether you’re a die-hard surfing fan or someone curious about the intersection of sports and digital influence, Jamie’s story is one of resilience, creativity, and unyielding passion.
FSM Where did it all start for you?
different forms of lava, but that one is nasty.
FSM You've been raised at Pipeline most of your life haven't you? That's quite a commute to work!
JOB The first wave I remember ever riding wasn't technically my first wave, but the first time I had a significant memory. We were at Hale’iwa and I was on the front of the lifeguard board. My dad was a lifeguard at Hale’iwa and he was like, “Oh, I'm gonna go get a wave with Jamie.” And I think we were just kind of right in front of the tower and I was in front of the board and we just kept moving closer and closer to the lava rocks. I was like, “oh my God”. I just started crying. I got super scared. I went from being really excited to super scared and it kind of just, it shocked me. My dad couldn't figure out why I was crying and I couldn't tell him why I was crying 'cause we were coming towards the rock so fast. And he just kicked out and I was like, wait, whoa, we were not gonna hit those rocks. So it was pretty trippy. But that was my first memory.
JOB Yeah, yeah. It's not really much of a commute. Basically my dad tried to set us up and also himself, you know, to make life easier. My dad loved surfing. He loved every aspect of it and he was a surfing fan. My dad's favorite surfers were my favorite surfers. He loved Gary Elkerton. I was like, I love Gary Elkerton. And I liked getting all the same sprays as Elko. From age one to three, we lived at Sunset Beach with Derek Doerner, a really good friend of my fathers. Then,my dad got us a house on the beach at Ehukai, like right next to the lifeguard tower. For my dad, this is a dream case scenario, right? We were lucky to be raised on the beach at Ehukai. Without that big move, I don't think I would be where I'm at today.
FSM That was a colorful time for surfing and in general.
JOB It was like such a cool, surreal thing for me to be a part of the late eighties, early nineties boom. And that's really kind of where I feel like I got my personality from. I am an eighties baby, I'm colorful and I feel electric. And that's kind of the vibe that's, that's just me. You know, we're psyched.
FSM And those are not the smooth kind of lava rocks were they?
JOB Yeah. in Hawai’i they call 'em a’a’. 'cause when you walk on 'em, you're like, ah, ah, ah. I'm not too sure why there's
FSM What was it like going through adolescence here in Hawai’i? I recall you being really lanky and tall for your age. Was there ever an awkward stage? How did you stack up against your peers in those formative years?
JOB I felt like I was always really good. I would win some
Seamlessly remove wetsuits with ease.
The Wetsuit Wrench is an adjustable, durable tool for fast. safe, and fabricfriendly wetsuit removal without tears, rips, or strains. It's cost-effective, reusable, hygienic, and perfect for all abilities, ensuring easy transitions and prolonged gear life.
FSM The North Shore. What was that like?
JOB Yeah, I mean, the eighties…, it was colorful, it was fun. The beach was my playground. The ocean was soon to be my biggest playground ever. It was super cool. My dad would work as a lifeguard and every time I was done with school, I would go to the beach. It was like this mandatory thing but it was perfect 'cause I could come out after school and hang
contests and I would lose some. And then there was a point that like, yeah, I felt like I was lanky and awkward and I was growing at a rapid pace but I feel like I was always kind of right there at the forefront. I was kind of double jointed too. Like I could do the splits and some other weird stuff. I was just trying to find my path and what I wanted to do. My dad was pushing me to longboard, boogie board, shortboard, kneeboard, paddleboard. Like, bro, he had me just spread across the board. I was like, come on dad, let me focus on shortboarding. We were chasing down every single contest trying to get as many trophies as we possibly could. It was just like this hustle when my dad didn't work on the weekends, I was “working.” I remember guys like Joel (Centeio), Fred (Patacchia), Sean Moody were always the guys to battle it out. Everyone gave each other a good run for their money.
Photo Brent Bielmann
out under the lifeguard tower and then that would lead me to surfing and making friends on the beach and that became my life.
FSM Living in front of Pipeline is like working in a gladiator pit. On any given day you are dealing with real beasts to tame. How’s the wear and tear and wipeout factor after all these years?
JOB I’m luckily pretty flexible and it helps you and prevents you from getting hurt, but that's only so far. You'll like to get to a certain point where you did something and oh, that really really hurts. I broke two legs at Pipeline. I got knocked unconscious multiple times. It's, it's surfing, it's inevitable. I did something to my MCL. It's like, sometimes you get hurt in the weirdest times, you know, times the waves are small and next thing you know, you're like getting carried up the beach. I'm like, how the heck did that happen?
FSM Do the wipeouts and challenges ever get easier? Does that fear ever fade?
JOB Yeah, the fear factor started early but I think it's just like anything in life. Things are thrown at you. You get scared, you
Photo Brian Bielmann
A solid sponger also, 2011.
Photo Brent Bielmann
“As
keep coming back for more because you just want to defeat the fear at the end of the day. That's what life's all about, is going up against all your fears and conquering 'em. Like I knew things were scary, but I knew I could kind of fight through it. Every time I wipe out at Pipe or backdoor anywhere, really, I'm like so scared. I'm like such a wuss. I'm gonna do all I can to not wipe out. I hate wiping out. It's such a weird thing. The last couple years at Pipeline have been the most scared I've been. I took this weird wipe out a couple years ago that kind of got in my head. The mind's a powerful thing.
FSM Is there really any way to avoid the wipeout or control it?
JOB There's a lot of different ways and a lot of weird techniques, but really you could make the wipe out even worse. You could do like these weird things with your arms and like, you're doing like these weird egg beaters and you're like, or you're trying to control yourself from not doing front flips and backflips and all these like, crazy things.
FSM You were among the first pro surfers to embark on doing video projects? How did all that evolve? I think I had some clips in your first gig to help get you going!
JOB We did…Freak Side? No! “Freak Show.” It was my first movie and I didn't even know what I was doing. I always went on these (Rip Curl) surf trips with Mick Fanning and Zane Harrison, Nathan Hedge and Darren O’Rafferty. And like, I always felt like when the movie would come out, the Rip Curl movie, I was like, where's all my clips? I felt like they were just sweeping me under the rug or something. So I was like, I wanna make my own movie. And they are like, “No. We're not ready for that.” I was like, I'm gonna do it. I remember actually coming to you guys cause I know you got some sick clips. 'cause your archive just goes forever, and yeah, thanks for helping me out. That was cool.
FSM Stoked to help.
JOB That was a huge thing for me, you know,
"Yeah, the fear factor started early but I think it's just like anything in life. Things are thrown at you. You get scared, you keep coming back for more because you just want to defeat the fear at the end of the day. That's what life's all about, is going up against all your fears and conquering 'em. "
Photo Brian Bielmann
being young and ambitious and I was just trying to be like an Andy Irons to put out a Raw Irons and or the Bruce Movie, you know. I just saw them and I wanted to be like them and put out videos, but I didn't know if anyone really wanted to watch 'em.
FSM Your videos are very popular, time tested and your entertainment platforms are some of the biggest in surfing. Maybe Rip Curl should have backed your video goals? What keeps you stoked about creating this and continuing it?
JOB So ultimately the battle is part of the game. I kind of look at it now and I'm like all right, I won the battle. I'm still going. But like, is that what life's all about? I don't know. I’m keeping my name relevant in the game, you know, being like one of the older guys in the game, I'm super blessed to be where I'm at. I'm super happy to still make a living from surfing and wake up every day and look at the ocean and go, all right, what are we doing in the ocean today? I could jump on a plane anywhere in the world and go and film. It's just cool. I'm just happy, so happy to be here. I'm like freaking 40 years old and like top of my game. Everything's so good. I feel like the reason for living is meeting new people, creating memories, traveling the world, and also, you know, giving something to
2007. Photo Brian Bielmann
Quiver, 2016. Photo Tony Heff
Big Wave is a lighter-bodied golden ale with a tropical hop aroma and flavor—smooth, easy drinking, and refreshing. The use of caramel malt contributes to the golden hue of this beer, and our special blend of hops provides a bright, quenching finish that makes it a struggle to not grab another one.
people, like something fun, something electric, you know, like giving someone hope, getting someone off their couch. I’ve realized that people are so happy and you make them so happy and they watch your show every Monday, 9:00 AM Hawaii Standard time. And you're like, wow. Like, you build such a cool community. I think that's very special about YouTube and, and what we're doing, in that space because we're like letting them into our home and making 'em feel a part of our family, which is really cool.
FSM I think humans are attracted to playtime and you have that vibe going on. Does it ever get challenging to stay in playtime mode?
JOB I think the playtime vibe just comes from honestly stepping away from the industry and not doing what they wanted me to do and just following my own lead. My biggest goal was to build my brand. Then that allowed me to free up to do whatever I want. We could set up a slip and slide. We could go tandem surfing at Pipeline. We could go down the sewer drain, like we could do anything. The world's ours. We weren't locked in like any one place for a surf contest or try to qualify for the
"I think the playtime vibe just comes from honestly stepping away from the industry and not doing what they wanted me to do and just following my own lead. "
Photo Brent Bielmann
championship tour. It was like people wanna watch slip inside storm drains surfing in mud puddles. You know what I mean? I feel like, yeah, I'm 40 now, but you know, it's like most people retire when they're 50 or 60 years old. Like, I've been retired and having a blast my whole life and, and I'm just fortunate enough to film it and document it.
FSM Your moniker is “Stay Psyched!”. Is that your legacy?
JOB The end goal is to get someone off their couch and get in the water. I just wanna put out good videos and make people psyched to go surfing. I am so lucky to have reached these goals and be a part of this really cool community here at Pipeline and the whole surfing world community, but I just don't wanna be that surfer that came and went. Like, where'd he go? Oh, he surfed Pipe for 10 years and now he is gone. Like, what happened to Jamie? Well, he is right here. He has
been surfing here for 40 years and I wanna be forever known here. That's why I bought a house here. You know, making that decision to do my own thing was the best decision I ever made.
FSM Last words of advice?
JOB Just surf, have fun, Get out there. No matter how good or bad the waves are, the ocean is a natural healing place, you know, just get wet. Sometimes I get in my own head, I'm like, no, I'm not paddling out there and I'll paddle out anyway and then I'm so glad I paddled out. Have fun and if you wanna get to know people in a lineup, be friendly and give people compliments. I see people out there. I could tell they got a good wave and I just love to give 'em a good compliment 'cause it kind of makes everybody's day when you get a nice compliment.
Photo Brent Bielmann
Jamie O'Brien
Photo BrentBielmann
CAVE DWELLERS
Jamie surfs Pipeline with friends who have become legends in their own right and the grand masters who they grew up admiring. We've curated some of their best moments over the years.
Andy Irons
Photo Brian Bielmann
Makua Rothmann
Photo Brian Bielmann
John John Florence
Photo Brian Bielmann
Photo Brent Bielmann
Kelly Slater
Photo Brent Bielmann
Michael Ho
Photo Brian Bielmann
Nathan
Florence
Photo Brent Bielmann
Johnny Boy Gomes
Photo Brian Bielmann
Kalani Chapman
Photo Brian Bielmann
Sean Briley
Photo Brian Bielmann
Lucas Godfrey
Photo Brent Bielmann
Layback Attack with Dr Mesiwala
With the WSL World Title on the line at Lower Trestles for the Championship, athlete performances were scoped very closely and you can be sure the judges were burning up the replay cams in an attempt to get things right.
Opinions varied on what waves were better or what aerials were cleaner and there were plenty of sideline debates and plenty of room for criticism and controversy. In the end, while Italo performed furiously and determinedly, I believe the result was correct with the championship trophy in the hands of John John Florence. And while the Brazilian claimed sheer dominance in the air, there was one blistering maneuver that undoubtedly clinched the title and ended the debate.
Dr. Mesiwala :
Let’s call it THE “hellbent blistering layback speed hack snap” of the year.
Gleaning the expert knowledge of body mechanics we caught up to Dr. Ali Mesiwala and asked him for insights on the actual bodily torque and pressure that go into maneuvers like that turn. How is the human body capable of doing this and what kind of pressure and challenge is that for the human body?
“If you think about the spine, the bony spine really serves to protect the spinal cord. At the same time, the spine serves a purpose of weight bearing and allowing you to stand erect. So your legs connect to your pelvis. Your pelvis then is attached to your spine. And somehow this all works together in order to achieve a proper balance and alignment. For any individual, especially an elite athlete, we're asking our normal structures to perform to their limit during these periods of exercise. Each part of the spine, the cervical spine, the thoracic spine, and the lumbar spine are built to do different things while at the same time, serving a variety of other functions that are either protective or supportive. What I mean by that is that ultimately your brain is trying to get information through the spinal cord to all the different muscles and organs and limbs that are required to do these things. So your spine serves to protect and house the spinal cord at the same time. It supports the muscles, which are then pulling and pushing against one another in order to achieve the movement that you want. At the same time, your spine is supporting the external structures that are protecting your organs.
John John Florence Photo Brian Bielmann
HAND-CRAFTED
3 WAIKIKI LOCATIONS!
Kai Coffee Hawaii at Alohilani Resort
2490 Kalakaua Ave, Suite #131
Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 926-1131
Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week
Kai Coffee Hawaii Lobby Bar at Alohilani Resort
Hours: 6:00AM-11:00AM HST, 7 days a week
Kai Coffee Hawaii Hyatt Regency Waikiki 2424 Kalakaua Avenue, #130
Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 923-1700
Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week
Layback Attack with Dr Mesiwala
The major issue for here is a tremendous rotational force on the spine. One part of his body's moving one way while he's changing direction in the other. That really shows you the incredible flexibility and stability of the spine because somehow he's able to maintain control, not damage his spinal cords, nerves and his discs and joints and muscles all work in concert to achieve the goal of making this incredible turn while maintaining his upright position.
If you watch video clips and replays or you go to a surfing competition live to see it first hand, you see these incredible turns, like in John John's case where he performs a massive maneuver and clinches the championship. It is the perfect combination of knowing what he wants to accomplish and his brain is sending the appropriate information to his spine, his spinal cord is then delivering information to his muscles, and his muscles are doing what they need to do to achieve the turn - in this case, as you called it a “hellbent blistering layback speed hack snap.” At the same time, his discs, his bones, his ligaments are all working together to accomplish the same thing and so miraculously he doesn't get injured, right? He doesn't tear something in the midst of a really impressive turn and he maintains his balance. It's not a question of luck, it's really a question of everything working perfectly at that moment to make it happen. That's why he is world champion. “
Mike Latronic and Dr. Mesiwala
ALWAYS SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LEFT...
RAINBOW
SHAUN CHANG, MD
Foot & Ankle Surgery
BRANDEE BLACK, MD
Sportsmedicine, Shoulder, Knee and Ankle Surgery, Arthroscopy
ROBERT MEDOFF, MD
Wrist, Hand Surgery
LINDA RASMUSSEN, MD
Robotic Knee & Hip Reconstruction, Adult & Pediatric, Arthroscopy
DEVIN GANESH, MD
Hand, Elbow, Shoulder Surgery, Arthroscopy
Shocking concrete seawall threatens Uluwatu cliffs and waves
Indonesian authorities are building a concrete seawall around Uluwatu's cliffs to prevent the Pura Luhur Temple from collapsing into the ocean. This $5 million project has stirred concerns among the local surf community and NGOs.
The plan includes a coastal road and an 82-foot seawall to save the temple and prevent cliff erosion. Visible cracks, caused by a 1992 earthquake, have worsened over time, threatening the cliff’s stability.
Despite efforts to limit visitors, the cliffs continue to deteriorate. Authorities have begun cutting into the cliffs, replacing their natural beauty with concrete.
The project may alter sand movement, water currents, and wave patterns. Some locals, believing rainwater is the cause, feel left out of the decision-making. Others fear speaking out due to the island's complex cultural and political dynamics.
Save the Waves Coalition highlights Uluwatu’s spiritual, cultural, and economic importance. They warn that without an Environmental Impact Assessment, the potential harm to the area’s ecosystems, including coral reefs and marine life, remains unknown. Uluwatu’s world-class waves, attracting 240,000 surfers annually and contributing $35 million to the local economy, may also be at risk.
While preserving the temple is crucial, the environmental and economic consequences of this project could be irreversible.
Freesurf Magazine and Manulele Media was once again proud to represent at the Surf Expo event held in Orlando Florida from September 5, 6 and 7, 2024. Once again Surf Expo was a vibrant gathering for surfing, watersports, coastal lifestyle, and outdoor enthusiasts.
Hosted at the Orange County Convention Center, the event featured hundreds of brands and attracted thousands of retailers and buyers from around the world. Key surf brands such as Volcom, Salty Crew, Rip Curl, O’Neill and Hurley showcased their latest products for the Spring and Summer 2024 collections and it was noteworthy and promising to see Quiksilver, Billabong, Roxy, and a few other brands that had been absent during restructuring- also there at the event.
The Surf Expo coincided with the finals of the WSL world championship in California so you can imagine more than a few booths featured the live webcast and people were raging, watching the world’s best athletes battle it out for the title.
Surf Expo 2024
Not so surprising: you could feel the delight and energy surrounding the Florence Marine X booth while John Florence went onto win his third World Title and also at the O'Neill booth when Oceanside’s Caity Simmers became the youngest world champion ever!
Surf Expo was not just about commerce, but also camaraderie, with industry professionals from various sectors gathering to network, discover emerging trends, and forge new business relationships. It was nice to connect with several of the Hawai’i accounts like Town & Country, Hawai’ian Island Creations and Hi Tech.It’s always a good time to catch up with friends, new and old brotherhood and sisterhood of our industry! See you at the next Surf Expo in January!
Inthe bathypelagic zone, 13,000 feet under the sea, an international team of researchers has discovered mineral nodules that challenge our assumptions of oxygen production being limited to photo-synthetic organisms like plants and algae. Where no light penetrates, how does aerobic sea life then breathe? This discovery challenges everything science thinks that it knows about the origin of aerobic life on Earth. When Andrew Sweetman of the Scottish Association for Marine Science made the discovery in the Pacific ClarionClipperton Zone, a submarine mountain ridge along the north east quadrant of the Pacific, the entire team assumed faulty equipment, an error to recalibrate. Inaccurate sensors. A decade of sensor calibration and recalibration passed as research continued, but the readings persisted. The research team switched out the equipment for another back-up sensor, measuring with another method entirely. To their shock, the results came back the same. Scientists have only ever seen oxygen be consumed in the deep ocean, not produced. Natural mineral deposits that form on the ocean floor are at the center of this… if you‘ll pardon my pun, electrifying discovery.
In summer last year, Sweetman contacted Electrochemist Geiger of Northwestern University who had previously found that rust, when combined with saltwater can generate electricity. These funny looking dark lumps, comprised of different metals are referred to as “polymetallic” nodules, some the size of grains of sand, all the way to “average potato size” and are found to contain the same minerals that are critical elements in manufactured batteries: nickel, copper, manganese, cobalt and lithium.
A typical AA battery is voltage enough to induce seawater electrolysis. This is a chemical reaction where electrons are pulled out of the O (oxygen atom) in H20, producing free oxygen, in short. On the surface of a single nodule, the team detected up to .95v. When the nodules were clustered together, they acted much like manmade batteries: significant increase in voltage.
Nature’s batteries making deep-sea oxygen. It’s speculated by Geiger that the total polymetallic nodules in the Clarion-Clipperton Zone alone are enough to meet the global energy demand for decades. However, the consequences are dire: between 2016-7, marine biologists surveyed deep sea mining sites from the 1980s and found that the impact was devastating enough that even bacteria colonies hadn’t recovered. This would be absolutely calamitous to the rich marine fauna that surround these nodules - areas with more diversity than tropical rainforests! Alarmingly, several large scale mining companies now aim to extract these elements 10-20k feet below surface, by way of deep sea drilling: consequences unknown.
SEA SEED
Coral Reefs are some of the most highly biodiverse marine ecosystems, and as you’re probably aware, many reefs in the world are under pressing threats from many human industries, overfishing, pollution and climate change to name a few. A man in Okinawa has defied odds and expectations, and found a way to transplant farmed coral back into the ocean. The organization is called Sea Seed and it all began with Koji Kinjo, a native to Yomitan, central Okinawa. Crushed to see the 90% reef death (coral bleaching) to his home land during a 1998 heatwave, he sold his business and devoted himself to saving the ocean he grew up with. He has a special permit to collect coral eggs, and they’re grown and cultivated in an aquarium until they reach the right size for transplant. Ignoring doubt, accusations of ulterior motives like money, and of course, expected failures, he was staunchly determined by his own conviction that he was doing something good. Knee-deep in debt and struggling to produce successful tests, he carried on, determined to make a positive impact on his oncecolorful home reefs. Determined to do that which would prove all of his critics wrong. In 2005 it finally happened. A coral of
BOARD STORIES
6 DAYS A WEEK!
Kinjo’s that had survived transplantation two years prior, began to spawn eggs. Kinjo preformed much trial and error, learning that raising the coral in a low-stress environment didn’t survive the ocean transplant. He had to adjust, then raising the coral in a high-light, low-sodium environment. As an experiment based on observations during a 2013 coral bleaching incident, Sea Seed put two corals that had been raised differently side by side. Just as in 2013, the corals they raised under stress surged the incident, while the coral that established naturally had not. As of 2020, Sea Seed estimates over 150,000 successful stress-resistant corals have been transplanted to the ocean floor. Unfortunately, his findings aren’t widely known or implemented, and Kinjo remarks that most modern initiatives are still implementing techniques he performed twenty years ago that he knows don’t succeed. He cautions against overoptimism because of this, and more threats to coral than ever. Agricultural byproducts sully water quality when it rains, and runoff brings pesticides to the sea. However cautious, he is still hopeful. I’ll leave you with a quote from Kinjo.
“I think it’s okay to have man-made nature, it might sound violent, but humans have made so many things on Earth. I think it’s natural for humans to create things that other creatures will live in. We’ve already stolen so many homes; we shouldn’t get nervous about creating them… As soon as we believed in the coral, they overcame the obstacles. Animals aren’t as fragile as we think… If we are optimistic… nature will meet us in the middle.” miraclecoral.org
Mr. Koji Kinjo, CEO of Sangobata
Stuff We Like
SURFBOARD FACTORY OUTLET
The all-new CI Fish is our next-generation fish shape, designed for performance with a thinned-out and tuned-up design. It's versatile enough to liven up a small day and charge down clean, head-high waves the next.
Inspired by the 2005 Retro Fish and its 2007 Skinny Fish successor, this latest version returns to a twin keel set-up while blending modern performance features with a classic fish shape. It's a perfect mix for both fish enthusiasts and high-performance surfers.
CI team riders like Dane Gudauskas and Sage Erickson praise its speed and ability to glide through flat sections. Pair it with our new Channel Islands AMK Futures keel fin for optimal performance. Available in both PU/PE and EPS Spine-Tek constructions.
surfboardfactoryhawaii.com
VOLCOM
The Side Hit Shell Jacket is your ultimate companion for conquering the slopes. With its lightweight and waterproof design, this hooded zip-up shell offers unbeatable protection against the elements. The adjustable hood, cuffs, and hem let you customize the fit, while the reflective details and no-snow Zip Tech® Jacket to Pant Interface add functionality. Designed in collaboration with team rider Arthur Longo, this shell jacket excels in performance and style, providing the perfect outer layer with room for additional layering underneath.
volcom.com
WETSUIT WRENCH
Make water sports more accessible and inclusive with the Wetsuit Wrench – the ultimate tool for effortless wetsuit removal. This simple yet innovative device eliminates the hassle and frustration of peeling off a wet, clingy wetsuit. With an adjustable strap for all body types and abilities, the Wetsuit Wrench helps protect your wetsuit from damage while making it easier for everyone to enjoy the water. Elevate your adventure with a quick, three-step process: hook, step, and stand.
