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The Eddie Aikau opening ceremony offers a beautiful glimpse into how Native Hawaiian traditions are honored and celebrated. While surfing is a major part of our culture, so too are the language, dance, instruments, and music — and this event weaves them all together in one powerful ceremony. Opening ceremony, circa 2010, photo Tony Heff
EDITORIAL
Editor / Publisher
Mike Latronic
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Brian Bielmann
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John Weaver
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Photo Brian Bielmann
EDITOR'S NOTE
By Mike Latronic
“Eddie would go” that’s what my good friend and former TV cohost, business partner and surf buddy Mark Foo was quoted as saying after coming in from a particularly big morning session at Waimea Bay. Foo lived for Waimea Bay and chasing big waves, so if anybody knew intimately and authentically about that statement or making that call it was Foo. Rest in peace, buddy.
The phrase didn’t just stick. It became the siren slogan and statement for and about the man, the legend, the lifeguard and Hawaiian icon who gave his life in an attempt to find help for his shipmates on the troubled voyage of the Hokulea. Eddie Aikau will undoubtedly have his name and reputation forged into the history books forever. He is not only an inspiration to his Hawaiian ancestry, but also to all watermen and women and civil servants everywhere. He gave his life to try to save others, and there is perhaps no more greater honor.
As I interacted with Clyde Aikau, Eddie’s brother and the first winner of this prestigious event at Waimea Bay, I was overwhelmed with honor but also felt a huge weight of responsibility. "Bruddah Mike, let's do this." And so it shall be done.
Having witnessed every event since day one and in fact, blessed to surf in the first event at Sunset Beach- an honor I will always treasure, I will also never forget that they called my name as an alternate for the first event at Waimea Bay.
Tragically a good friend of mine who shall remain unnamed convinced me it was too small to hold the contest and we ended up surfing on the eastside. The swell jacked and I missed my opportunity of a lifetime to paddle out to Waimea Bay in honor of Eddie.
Coming full circle to this year as a publisher, I am truly honored to present the culmination of nearly 30 years of attending the opening ceremonies and witnessing the brave athletes and water safety personnel who have all been part of this colorful, dramatic and storied history. Enjoy.
Photo Don King
THERE IS GOOD TO BE DONE.
The Eddie Aikau Foundation is a charitable organization created to share Eddie Aikau's life, contributions and accomplishments while promoting education and the advancement of Hawaiian culture. Founded by the Aikau family, the Foundation pays tribute to Edward Ryon Makuahanai Aikau in honor of his love for his family and others, his courage and compassion in saving lives, and his dedication to Hawaiian people and culture. Eddie's legacy is a pure symbol of the Aloha Spirit.
The Foundation's ambitious goals are realized through advocacy, education and philanthropy. These goals include: advancing education and community service; supporting ocean-related activities and events; assisting in the preservation and perpetuation of Hawaiian history and culture; and encouraging Hawaiians and visitors alike to respect and contribute to the growth and development of Hawaiian culture. The Foundation strives to inspire people to develop a strong sense of pride in themselves, their heritage and their community through Eddie's remarkable spirit and character.
The Aikau Family created the Eddie Aikau Foundation in May of 2000 to share the spirit of Aloha and the Hawaiian traditions and culture as symbolized by their late brother Eddie Aikau.
The legendary Eddie Aikau had a keen knowledge of the ocean and was a true Hawaiian waterman. Aikau was a master of diving and surfing traditions of the Islands. With great care for the life of others, Aikau became the first lifeguard on Oahu's North Shore and saved countless swimmers from
the rough waters and big surf. He was a big-wave pioneer and won the prestigious Duke Surfing Contest at Sunset Beach in 1977. He became involved in the renaissance of Hawaiian culture and became a crew member of the traditional Polynesian sailing canoe the Hokulea as part of his commitment to keep his heritage alive. In 1978, he gave his life trying to save his crew at the time of the Hokulea being swamped in a bad storm off the Islands.
All Foundation activities are funded by donations including The EDDIE Big Wave Invitational Surf Contest and the annual Opening Ceremony. All donations & contributions are tax deductible and are greatly appreciated. eddieaikaufoundation.com
ABOUT THE ESSAY CONTEST
The EDDIE WOULD GO Essay Contest has been conducted since 2006. We are the only essay competition in the State of Hawaiʻi that has both English and Hawaiian language categories. Students may decide which language to use for their essays.
All students in grades 7th, 8th, 9th & 10th from all public, private, and charter schools in the State of Hawaiʻi, are eligible to enter the essay contest. This includes students that are homeschooled or participating in Distance Learning on a remote basis.
In the annals of all recorded surfing history, Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaiʻi, has been one of the most iconic spots in the world for big wave surfing. This beach is legendary for its massive winter swells, which can produce waves as high as small mountains. It is during these times when the waves are most enormous that “Eddie Would Go,” and the iconic event in his memory would be called on.
While Waimea Bay has long been seen as the ultimate proving ground for surfers, in recent years, big wave surfing has evolved dramatically, with new locations around the world pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. Waves at places like Teahupo’o in Tahiti, Jaws in Maui, and Nazaré in Portugal have challenged Waimea's reputation as the undisputed king of big wave spots. Last year, however, in January 2023, Waimea Bay reminded the world why it still holds a special place in surfing history. During the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, the surf reached an awe-inspiring 40 to 50 feet (12-16 meters), re-establishing Waimea Bay as one of the most formidable and respected locations in big wave surfing.
Who Was Eddie Aikau?
Photo Brian Bielmann
Presented By
The event is named after Eddie Aikau, a legendary Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard who became a symbol of courage and selflessness. Eddie and his brother Clyde were well storied professional surfers challenging and mastering large surf and ocean conditions on Oahu’s North Shore. Eddie was the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay, where he saved hundreds of lives in the treacherous surf. His bravery extended well beyond the beach. In 1978, while on a traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe, the Hokule’a, Eddie attempted to paddle for help after the canoe capsized in rough seas. It was an ominous and treacherous effort, selfless to the core but Eddie paddled a board in search of land and rescue. He was never seen again and his story became a symbol of heroic sacrifice.
In Eddie’s honor, the Invitational is held only when conditions at Waimea Bay are extreme enough to warrant the contest—a phrase often repeated in the surfing
world is, “The Bay Calls the Day.” This means the contest only happens when waves are truly massive, sometimes with years between events.
The 2023 Event
On January 22, 2023, after a seven-year gap, the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational was held again. The forecast predicted waves of 25 to 30 feet (7-9 meters), which in Hawaiʻi’s unique surf scale translates to actual wave faces of up to 60 feet. The conditions exceeded expectations, with sets of enormous waves pounding the shore throughout the day.
Forty of the world’s top big wave surfers were invited to compete, including some of the sport’s biggest names as well as a handful of female surfers. This event is as much about the prestige of being invited as it is about winning. Each competitor knows they are riding waves in honor of Eddie’s legacy.
Thousands of fans crowded the cliffs and beaches surrounding Waimea Bay, with estimates of over 50,000 spectators trying to catch a glimpse of the action.
The night before the event, the area looked like a festival, with people camping out and setting up along the coast to get a good view.
The Importance of Waimea Bay
In recent years, advances in technology—particularly the use of jet skis to tow surfers into massive waves—have allowed big wave riders to challenge waves that were once thought impossible to surf. This has opened up spots like Nazaré in Portugal and Jaws in Maui, where waves can reach up to 100 feet (30 meters). But Waimea Bay is different. It’s a paddlein wave, meaning surfers have to use their own strength to catch the wave rather than being towed in by a jet ski. This adds an extra level of difficulty and danger to the contest.
Kelly Slater, an 11-time world champion, former event champion, and one of surfing’s biggest names, has said, “Waimea isn’t just about size. There’s a history and connection to Eddie that makes it special. When you’re out there, you’re not just riding waves—you’re carrying on his legacy.”
Luke Shepardson’s Victory
Last year, it was local lifeguard Luke Shepardson who took the top prize, beating out former champion John Florence. Shepardson’s win was particularly special because, like Eddie, he is a lifeguard at Waimea Bay. Shepardson said, “Being able to surf Waimea in the Eddie and win—it’s a dream come true. Eddie Aikau has always been a hero of mine, and to surf in his honor is something I’ll carry with me for the rest of my life.”
The Legacy of Eddie Aikau
The Eddie Aikau Invitational is more than just a surfing contest. It’s a tribute to a man who embodied the spirit of aloha—respect for the ocean, the land, and the people of Hawaiʻi. Eddie’s legacy continues to inspire generations of surfers and ocean lovers, and the motto, “Eddie would go,” has become a rallying cry in the big wave surfing community, symbolizing his fearless attitude and commitment to helping others.
As Clyde Aikau, Eddie’s brother and contest organizer, once said, “Waimea Bay has always been sacred. You don’t conquer Waimea; you respect it, and Eddie taught us that.”
In the end, Waimea Bay, once again, proved it is still one of the most important places in the world for big wave surfing. The waves, the surfers, and the crowd all come together to honor a Hawaiian hero and the tradition of courage and respect that he left behind.
Historical Context
Waimea Bay: Known as the birthplace of big wave surfing, it became iconic in the 1950s and '60s when surfers like Greg Noll first dared to challenge its massive winter swells. The Eddie Aikau Invitational was created to honor Eddie's legacy, highlighting Waimea Bay’s significance in surfing lore.
Eddie Aikau: Born in 1946, Eddie was one of Hawaiʻi’s most respected watermen and lifeguards. Known for his fearless rescues and prowess in massive surf, he became a hero after disappearing in 1978 while attempting to save his crewmates during the ill-fated voyage of the Polynesian Hokule’a canoe.
Jet Ski Revolution: In the 1990s, jet ski-assisted tow-in surfing transformed big wave riding, allowing surfers to tackle waves that were once deemed unrideable. Kelly Slater remarked on how the introduction of jet skis “opened up a whole new era of surfing, where the impossible suddenly became possible.”
Clyde Aikau
Eddie's brother, past winner, and contest organizer
"Eddie was fearless, but it wasn’t just about riding waves. He was about helping others, about taking care of the land and the ocean. That’s why this event means so much to the Hawaiian people. It’s more than a contest—it’s a way to remember a true Hawaiian hero. Waimea Bay has always been sacred. You don’t conquer Waimea; you respect it, and Eddie taught us that.”
Photo Brian Bielmann
Greg Long
It's amazing to have so much support for the sport of bigwave surfing. I think (the event) really encapsulates everything that big-wave surfing is about. It's about that respect and camaraderie and that friendship we have in the lineups, which I know Eddie really represented out there.
Photo Mike Latronic
John Florence
“Winning at Waimea was the highlight of my career. You’re riding in memory of Eddie, and that weight makes it so much more meaningful. You feel like you’re carrying on his legacy. Every wave at Waimea is heavy, but the crowd, the bay itself—there’s a magic about it that no other wave has.”
Photo Brian Bielmann
Eddie Would Go
The motto of the event, "Eddie Would Go," represents Eddie Aikau’s fearless attitude in both surfing and life-saving, setting the tone for the respect the competition commands.
Wave Size: The Eddie only runs under extreme conditions, contributing to its legendary status. The decision to hold or cancel is often debated until the last minute.
Global Attention: The Eddie has gained worldwide attention, as even the possibility of the event happening attracts thousands of spectators and media.
Kelly Slater
"Waimea has always had that mythical status. It’s not just about the size, but the history and connection to Eddie Aikau. When you paddle out there, you’re part of something much bigger."
"What we’re seeing now in big wave surfing, with spots like Jaws and Nazaré, is mind-blowing. But Waimea is like the spiritual home for big wave riders. It's where you prove your heart."
Photo Brian Bielmann
Bruce Irons
"When the event was gonna go down, I called Kala,(Alexander) 'cause like, that's my guy, like, we're going, it's on. I'm pissed and I'm so boom I'm already set with Kala. Me and Kala went out there (to Waimea before the event) and I got some of the best, biggest waves of my life. At that moment before the event I broke my board and I'm like damn. What am I going to do? The traffic's nuts and Eddie Rothman comes flying through the traffic on a moped from his house (at Sunset) with this huge yellow Dick Brewer. If it wasn't for that board I definitely wouldn't have been able to catch these waves. When I jumped on that board for the first time I remember hitting the water and just gliding so far without even touching the water. I'm like, oh, yeah I got this thing. I was like this (board) could get the biggest waves possible out there. "
Photo Mike Latronic
Luke Shepardson
“Being able to surf Waimea in the Eddie and win—it’s a dream come true. Eddie Aikau has always been a hero of mine, and to surf in his honor is something I'll carry with me for the rest of my life.”
“The waves were huge that day, but as a lifeguard, my main thought was safety, making sure no one got hurt. It's surreal to compete and then go back to work, but that’s what Eddie would have done.”
Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig
2024-2025 INVITEES
KĀNE
Aaron Gold (HI)
Billy Kemper (HI)
Bruce Irons (HI)
Chad Keaulana (HI)
Eli Olson (HI)
Ezekiel Lau (HI)
Francisco Porcella (ITALY)
Greg Long (CA)
Ian Walsh (HI)
Jake Maki (HI)
Jamie Mitchell (HI)
Jamie O’Brien (HI)
John John Florence (HI)
Jojo Roper (CA)
Kai Lenny (HI)
Kauli Vaast (TAHITI)
Keali‘I Mamala (HI)
Kelly Slater (CA)
Koa Rothman (HI)
Kohl Christensen (HI)
Landon McNamara (HI)
Lucas Chianca (BRAZIL)
Luke Shepardson (HI – 2023 WINNER)
Makuakai Rothman (HI)
Mark Healey (HI)
Mason Ho (HI)
Matt Bromley (SA)
Nathan Florence (HI)
Nic Lamb (CA)
Peter Mel (CA)
Ross Clarke-Jones (AUS)
Russell Bierke (AUS)
Taio Shipman (HI)
Torrey Meister (HI)
Tyler Larronde (HI)
KĀNE ALTERNATES
Ha‘a Aikau (HI)
Joey Cadiz (HI)
Eala Stewart (HI)
Ben Wilkinson (AUS)
Grant Twiggy Baker (SA)
Koa Smith (HI)
Tiger Doerner (HI)
Michael Sanborn (HI)
Ivan Florence (HI)
Mikey O’Shaughnessy (HI)
Kala Grace (HI)
Barron Mamiya (HI)
Tom Robert Lowe (UK)
Alonso Correa (PERU)
Othmane Choufani (MOR)
Natxo Gonzalez (SPAIN)
Isamu Sumi (JAPAN)
Cristian Merello (CHILE)
Manny Resano (NIC)
Conor Maguire (IRELAND)
WAHINE
Annie Starr Reichert (HI)
Bianca Valenti (CA)
Emily Erickson (HI)
Felicity Palmateer (AUS)
Justine Duponte (FRANCE)
Keala Kennelly (HI)
Laura Enever (AUS)
Makani Adric (HI)
Moana Jones Wong (HI)
Paige Alms (HI)
WAHINE ALTERNATES
Izzy Gomez (HI)
Skylar Lickle (HI)
Tiare Lawrence (HI)
Andrea Moller (HI)
Anne Dos Santos (BRAZIL)
Brock Little
One of the most famous big wave surfers, had a deep connection to Waimea Bay. He competed in the 1987 Eddie Aikau Invitational as a teenager and became one of the youngest surfers to make an impact at the event. Brock once stated about Waimea, "Once it gets over 20 foot...you wanna write that wave off, call it easy? You wait till it's over 20, then let's see you paddle out and look over the ledge...easy my ass"
Photo Brian Bielmann
Darryl "Flea" Virostko
"Out of all the years I've shot The Eddie, this wipeout by Darryl "Flea" Virostko was by far the heaviest Ive ever seen. What in the world is going thru his mind at this very moment I can’t even pretend to know."
- Brian Bielmann
Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig
Zeke Lau
"I've done a lot of surf contests in my life, all around the world and nothing matches this event. It has a different energy and I think just the meaning behind it is a lot different. They don't run it unless it's 30 feet. I still can't believe some of the waves I got, probably some of the best waves of my life.
It’s 100 % commitment out there. So you take the good with the bad, you know, I had a lot of good rides in my first heat and took a couple of bad wipeouts in the second, but that's big wave surfing."
Photo Mike Latronic
Photo Mike Latronic
Zane Aikau, 2004
Sunny Garcia, 2018 2004
2004
2013
Jodi Wilmott and Clyde Aikau, 2012
Andy Irons, 2004
Mark Foo, Eddie Rothman, Lance Hookano and Tony Moniz, 2004
Past Eddie Aikau Champions
Clyde Aikau (1986-87)
Bio: Eddie's younger brother and a respected surfer in his own right. He became the first winner of the Eddie, symbolizing the legacy of the Aikau family in Hawaiian surfing.
Ross Clarke-Jones (2001-02)
Bio: An Australian surfer known for his versatility and willingness to charge in any conditions. Clarke-Jones was one of the few non-Hawaiians to win the Eddie.
Greg Long (2009-10)
Bio: A professional big wave surfer from California, Long has a reputation for surfing some of the largest waves globally. His win in the Eddie cemented his legacy.
Keone Downing (1989-90)
Bio: Son of George Downing, a pioneer of big wave surfing. Keone followed in his father’s footsteps and made his mark with this victory.
Kelly Slater (2004-05)
Bio: An 11-time World Champion, Slater’s victory in the Eddie solidified his reputation as not only a competitive champion but also one of the most versatile surfers of all time.
John John Florence (2015-16)
Bio: Born and raised on the North Shore, Florence has become one of the most dominant surfers of his generation. His Eddie win helped propel him to World Championship status.
Noah Johnson (1998-99)
Bio: An Oahu local, Johnson was relatively unknown internationally, but his fearless approach and intimate knowledge of Waimea earned him this prestigious title.
Bruce Irons (2009-10)
Bio: The younger brother of 3-time world champion Andy Irons, Bruce became famous for his stylish surfing and commitment to big waves. His win at the Eddie is one of his career highlights.
Luke Shepardson (2022-23)
Bio: A North Shore lifeguard who won the event while on duty. Shepardson’s win was seen as a victory for the local community, as he balanced professional responsibilities with competitive surfing.
Regenerative
“As
Dr.
Andy Irons
Being in the Eddie is pretty much like a World Title and Triple Crown. I think I'd put the Eddie Aikau up there, almost more prestigious than a Triple Crown. It's just a really special event, they don't have it often, and it takes really special conditions and just to be on the list, on the year that it runs, it's pretty lucky and special.
Terry Ahue
Hawaiian Water Patrol et skis made the rescue techniques, especially out here on the North Shore, a lot easier and a lot safer for especially the victims and the rescues. With rescues that used to take us half an hour to 45 minutes, now it only takes us five.
Photo Mike Latronic
Photo Mike Latronic
Makua Rothman
The Eddie Aikau, to me, is probably the biggest contest that I could ever win. The biggest thing that I could ever do. And my dad (Eddie Rothman) is one of the founders of this contest. You can ask anybody here about how prestigious this event is and to put your name on the plaque with the winners of this thing, you can definitely say that you ‘did it’ in surfing.
Billy Kemper
“I mean, this is the most special day in surfing history. There's no event that's this prestigious that holds this much emotion and power.”
Photo Brian Bielmann
Photo Mike Latronic
Big Wave is a lighter-bodied golden ale with a tropical hop aroma and flavor—smooth, easy drinking, and refreshing. The use of caramel malt contributes to the golden hue of this beer, and our special blend of hops provides a bright, quenching finish that makes it a struggle to not grab another one.
I've been surfing here since I was a little kid, and I just have a lot of amazing memories here at Waimea Bay. When I first started coming to the North Shore, I started surfing out here, and I had a lot of amazing days out here with a lot of the guys in the event and just a cool thing to be invited to.
Dave Wassel
I can never get used to this. It is a highlight of my life to be in the circle with all my childhood heroes, before and now. It's a dream come true. I can't believe I'm part of this. It's awesome.
Photo Brian Bielmann
Photo Batel Shimi
Women & the Eddie
By Amanda Blackwell
“Eddie would go.” A common vernacular often said to pay homage to the Herculean legend, one of the most revered watermen in Hawaiian history-Eddie Aikau. The most culturally significant contest in the history of surfing was dedicated in his name, as we know. Yet back when the contest took shape in 1984, it was likely no one had any idea that a woman, maybe donning a ponytail, would be among the elite to be invited. That changed in 2019-2020 when the first females were invited among the industry and Hawaiʻi’s elite, yet like most years, a decent Eddie-worthy swell didn’t materialize. With COVID and the hurdles of the pandemic in 2020, the women had to patiently wait on the sidelines for their opportunity. Then came 2023—and on January 23rd the Eddie was on. Out of the 40 surfers, 6 of them were women.
It hasn’t always been easy for women in the water, especially the niche of big wave surfing. In Hawaiian history, female Hawaiian royalty was known for surfing alongside the men, one of the only places where a semblance of equality existed. But as surfing began to rise in popularity in the 1950’s and 1960’s, women were viewed as an accessory on the shore instead of an equal, capable of surfing like the men. Even in the iconic 1966 documentary, The Endless Summer, the god-like men from California traveled around the world on an epic wave hunt, while the women were minimized to a commodity in a bikini on the beach. Women have come a long way in the world of surfing, but most of the progress has been made in only the last decade.
Keala Kennelly
"You know when you're a little kid, I would dream I could be in The Eddie one day, but as a little girl there were no women in The Eddie, I didn't think it'd be a possibility for me - when I got that call that I was going to be the first female invitee, I didn't think I'd see that in my lifetime, and the fact I was that woman, it's one of the biggest honors of my career."
Photo Brian Bielmann
Women and the Eddie
In 2016, Keala Kennelly co-founded the Committee for Equity in Women’s Surfing with other big wave goddesses where they challenged local governments for equity in the water. Their efforts were worthwhile when they lobbied California officials to put pressure on the inclusion of women in the contest at Mavericks by threatening permits for the event. Many veteran Mavericks’ surfers on the board were men who had surfed Mav’s since the 90’s, claiming that women weren’t at the same level, and the spots should be for the men who deserved it. They eventually caved, however, due to permit issues, where a board member made a statement that it was “quite simply the right time.” The right time, because the women fought to be included.
The contest at Mavericks set the precedent, where women and big wave surfing were continuing to evolve, and these chargers were beginning to be taken seriously. Fast forward to 2018, just 2 years after the female Mavericks’ debut. Keala Kennely herself was the first female to be invited to the Eddie out of 28 invitees. The following year, 20192020, a record-breaking nine females were included on the
elite invite list. The evolution was gaining momentum, but the contest hadn’t been held since 2016.
In all 34 years of The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational history, the event has only been held 10 times, making it the most elusive and coveted contest in the world of surfing. When the Eddie gets called on, the world of surfing seemingly stops. When the announcement hit in 2023 that the contest was on, it was time for 6 women —Paige Alms, Andrea Moller, Keala Kennelly, Justine Dupont and Makani Adric-- to make history.
Each woman expressed immense gratitude to be included in the event, knowing its trailblazing significance. Keala Kennelly said, “…they haven’t had the event in the last 7 years and to actually be here on this day, put on a jersey and paddle out there, and now it’s not just me, and I’m going to be out there with 5 of my other sisters—you’re watching history in the making.” Paige Alms mirrored this sentiment, “To be here, I hope we are putting on a good show to inspire the younger generations. Not in my wildest dreams as a kid would I think that women would be included in such an iconic event.”
Makani Adric Photo Christa Funk
photo: Mike Latronic BEnji
Women and the Eddie
Makani Adric, a North Shore native, who has surfed Waimea since she was 16, knew what a big deal it was for women and surfing. “I didn’t think it was possible for a woman to now be surfing in the Eddie and to be invited to such an iconic event. I was in disbelief. As a female I would never think that 6 women were able to have a position and surf amongst the 40 invites.”
Like many women pushing the barriers, Makani Adric surfs for the sheer love of the sport and appreciation of the ocean. She spoke to this sentiment of being out in the lineup at Waimea the day of the contest. “I can’t explain the actual feeling sitting out there. It was so big and exciting,” Makani had a beautiful wave that looked seemless, hanging on for the reform, donning a pink jersey, nonetheless. A woman may not have won the event, but they claimed some noteworthy waves. Andrea Moller caught the first wave as a woman for the event, making it look easy. Keala Kennelly had an insane airdrop and one of the craziest wipeouts of the day, where everyone watching had to pick their jaws up off the floor. Yet she paddled right back out like nothing happened. If you want respect, that’s exactly how you earn it.
In 2023, the 6 women who paddled out on that January day made history, and now the world can see what females are capable of. These women were trailblazers in their own right, inspiring generations of young female chargers to come. Even just 10 years ago, the idea of surfing the Eddie for a young girl was not possible. But thanks to these 6 women, the Eddie is a dream that can be manifested. With the 2024-2025 invitee list being released, the number of women participating is increasing. This year, 10 women were invited, including 5 additional alternates.
When the Aikau family started this contest in Eddie’s name, they wanted to celebrate Eddie because he was not only a coveted waterman, but his love of surfing was contagious and he wanted to spread the joy of the sport. We can’t help but wonder what Eddie would think about these women, and he has to be proud of how far the sport has come. When someone asks, “would Eddie go?” A little girl somewhere can mutter the words, “Yes, Eddie would go. But girls would too.”
Paige Alms and Ramon Navarro
Photo Christa Funk
Bruce Irons
The Eddie Aikau champion reflects on his win and his brother, Andy
By Mike Latronic
After a heated fist fight with his older brother, Bruce Irons turned his burning desire to best Andy into what he describes as one of the greatest moments of his life. The sibling rivalry was real but so was the love for surfing and each other.
“When I first got invited I was probably about 20. I was invited before my brother, so I was like, yeah! It's a real honor. I was stoked to tell you the truth. I didn't ever consider myself a big wave surfer but to be invited was the honor but I was like damn I don't want to make a fool of myself.
I had that Brock Little poster in our room our whole childhood and looked at that thing every single day. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I was going to be invited, let alone to win the thing.
I remember at the opening ceremony looking at that surfboard trophy and I was just like, wow, that thing's amazing. I didn't think I would ever have that trophy.
Waimea Bay is very powerful and having Eddie be the lifeguard there and the Aikau family, it holds this energy there that's crazy. Being a part of that circle and the
ceremony and paddling out there and looking in at the valley, you just feel this powerful warrior energy. It's like, I get chicken skin just talking about and thinking about it.
I want to say the biggest reason I won that thing is because my brother and I got in a real heavy duty fist fight the day before. If you look back I have a black eye, and so does my brother. And that was what fueled me into that event - rage and anger.
When the event was gonna go down, I called Kala,(Alexander) 'cause like, that's my guy, like, we're going, it's on. I'm pissed and I'm so boom I'm already set with Kala. Me and Kala went out there (to Waimea before the event) and I got some of the best, biggest waves of my life. At that moment before the event I broke my board and I'm like damn. What am I going to do? The traffic's nuts and Eddie Rothman comes flying through the traffic on a moped from his house (at Sunset) with this huge yellow Dick Brewer. If it wasn't for that board I definitely wouldn't have been able to catch these waves. When I jumped on that board for the first time I remember hitting the water and just gliding so far without even touching the water. I'm like, oh, yeah I got this thing. I was like this (board) could get the biggest waves possible out there.
Photo Mike Latronic
My brother's heat is before me. This is his first time doing the Eddie and my first time. He's already a World Champion. He's won everything - Triple Crowns and I was so mad at him because of this fight. Now in the heat before mine, I'm watching him catch the biggest wave of his life which is putting him right up there in the lead and I'm just screaming at the top of my lungs like he's not gonna win this event you know! He's won everything! Not this one! No he's not doing this, giving me a black eye and winning this on top of it! No way! I'm not letting this happen! I'm gonna go hard no matter what. I don't care whatever happens. He caught that huge wave and I was already raged up, fired up and so the swell was peaking and my heat is up next and those big waves came. That hundred point ride was my last ride. I just remember when the sets were coming in. I remember it would stand up and it was easy to paddle out a little bit too far. It would back off at the last second and so I just held my ground and Kelly guys kept paddling. I'm going to make sure I'm not missing this wave. It lined up perfectly for me. Kelly was right on the outside of me, up and high. I was head down going I was like ‘motherfucker oh yeah’ I'm going and yeah it ended up being that hundred point ride and it was one of the greatest feelings I've ever had. It still means the world to me-such an honor.
Regarding Andy. We always used to scuffle. All my success in surfing is because of my brother. That's how we pushed each other, like balls to the walls all the way, like you know what I mean? We fought, that's what brother's do. We just always pushed each other that hard in that way. It was intense but it's all love.
I just got the invite this year and you know by Ha’ a and Clyde and I'm so stoked for them for putting me back at this event. Sponsors or not, I would still be a part of it you know, for the rest of my life.
Honolulu City and County lifeguards in Hawai’i are among the most elite ocean safety professionals in the world. Their daily job is unpredictable, with life-or-death situations occurring frequently, even on ordinary days. Beyond these lifeguards, the Hawaiian Water Patrol (HWP) is a specialized team of ocean experts trained in jet ski-assisted rescues. While the lifeguards are public employees, the HWP operates like the Navy SEALs of water rescue, especially during massive surf events like the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational at Waimea Bay. This event presents extraordinary challenges, particularly during winter swells when the ocean becomes treacherous.
Pomai Hoapili on the Eddie
THE HAWAIIAN WATER PATROL AT WAIMEA BAY
Pomai Hoapili, an expert HWP driver, explains the intensity of working the Eddie event.
“Before dawn on the day of the event (2023), the team was already assessing the ocean conditions, which included a fierce rip current pulling from Haleʻiwa toward Sunset Beach. This current smashed against the rocks near the shoreline, creating a dangerous zone for rescues. In addition to the notorious big waves of Waimea, the shorebreak that day was terrifying, with 12-foot waves breaking just three feet from the sand. Jet skis, essential for rescues, struggled to operate effectively in the foamy, sand-filled water, which caused cavitation and reduced engine power.
Navigating Constant Challenges
With the constantly shifting conditions, the HWP team had to reassess their approach after each set. They dealt with broken equipment and injured team members but continued to provide safety for the surfers. As Pomai puts it, they had to act like "risk technicians," constantly weighing the potential risks against the rewards. Sometimes, things didn’t go as planned, but they had to adapt quickly to avoid further problems. Decisions were made on the spot, balancing safety with the urgency of the moment.
Despite all the preparation, there are always unknown factors and there’s always an element of unpredictability in these big wave events.
Photo Mike Latronic
Boosting Surfer Confidence
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Pomai believes that the presence of the HWP gives surfers the confidence to push their limits. Knowing that there’s a safety team ready to rescue them if things go wrong allows surfers to charge the waves harder. The Eddie Aikau event is one of the most spectacular in the world, and it’s made possible in part by the extraordinary work of the lifeguards and the HWP. In the end, the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational is not only a showcase of the world’s best surfers but also a testament to the incredible skill and dedication of the lifeguards and the Hawaiian Water Patrol. Their ability to navigate one of the world’s most dangerous waves and ensure the safety of everyone involved is nothing short of heroic.
Lifeguarding at Waimea Bay- Luke Shepardson
We asked Northshore Lifeguard and 2024 Eddie Aikau winner Luke Shepardson, what should any surfer know about Waimea Bay and here’s his sage response. “Know your limits. If you are not the best surfer, just because it looks like a drop and people are going straight doesn't mean it's, ‘Oh, I can do that. I can stand up and go straight.’ The crowd when it's 10 to 15 foot size range is very dangerous. People are out there not really knowing where their lineups are and not knowing what to do, and they get caught. It’s really really scary. And then when it does get bigger in the 15 to 20 foot size, the ledge is really gnarly. If you're out there on a “big” day and you're trying to get a ‘small’ one, you are probably best to not be out there at all and try to stay out of people's way and not be a hazard.”
Photo Mike Latronic
ALWAYS SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LEFT... RAINBOW
Red Water
By Kaea Latronic
Waimea Bay is a place of immense natural and spiritual power, or "mana" as the Hawaiians call it. Mana, which has many meanings in the Hawaiian language, can be simplified here as the life force that flows from the mountains to the ocean. This energy is carried through Waimea's ahupua’a, a traditional Hawaiian land division that connects the land and sea, and is deeply tied to the area’s sacred geography.
The water at Waimea is fed by the Kamananui and Kawiko‘ele streams, which come together to form the Waimea River, nourishing the land with fresh water. This river runs through a watershed of nearly 14 square miles and helps sustain ancient taro patches. The energy from the water passes by powerful historical sites, including the Mo'okini Luakini Heiau and Hale Iwi, or "house of bones." These areas hold great cultural significance and spiritual energy, with ties to ancient Hawaiian gods, such as Lono, the god of harvest.
Waimea’s ahupua’a was gifted by King Kamehameha I to his high priest, Kahuna Nui Hewahewa. The Aikau family, including legendary waterman Eddie Aikau, are direct descendants of this priest, linking them to the spiritual history of the land. Other high priests also ruled over Waimea, constructing chilling sacrificial temples, including Pu‘u o Makahua, a lookout for battles. The mana of Waimea flows from the mountains to the sea, symbolizing the interconnectedness of land, water, and people. It is at this sacred spot, where fresh water meets the ocean, that ancient Hawaiians once surfed the river sandbars. The Aikau brothers, descendants of powerful ancestors, embody this mana. Their presence at Waimea, especially during major events, continues to honor and amplify the energy that flows through this revered place.
Former event winner Greg Long rode more than one Waimea monster to clinch his victory in 2009. One of those waves (shown here) was an amazing 100 point ride. At that time he was just 26 years old, Greg is now 41 and is chasing a new wave.
Greg Long’s journey from chasing big waves to becoming a leading environmental advocate is one of transformation and purpose. While Long has won every prestigious big wave award—including the Eddie Aikau Invitational and the Big Wave World Tour—his commitment now lies in protecting the ocean. Partnering with organizations like the Surfrider Foundation, Long channels his passion for the environment into action.
change” and emphasizes the importance of protecting natural spaces for future generations
Now, through his role as a Surfrider ambassador, Long is not just riding waves, but working on what he calls “waves of change.” He advocates for defending the planet’s ecosystems, urging others to ask themselves, “What do you stand for, and how do you stand up for it?” His message to fellow ocean lovers is clear: small, consistent actions can drive long-term environmental sustainability
By using his platform, Long continues to inspire others to become environmental stewards, making the fight to protect the oceans as thrilling as conquering a big wave.
The turning point for Long came when a proposed development threatened Trestles Beach, a surf break close to his heart. His activism began when he worked with Surfrider to protect the coastline, leading to his realization that “our ocean is constantly under threat from a myriad of issues” and that individual actions can make a real difference. He believes that “leading by example is a powerful way to enact positive
FSM: When did you develop your passion for big wave surfing?
Greg Long: Big wave surfing has been my passion since I was 12, inspired by Bruce Brown films showing early pioneers like Greg Noll and Pat Curren at Waimea Bay. My father, a lifeguard, taught me ocean wisdom, which gave
Photo Tony Heff
me confidence in the water. Over time, I pushed myself to surf bigger waves because the greater the challenge, the greater the sense of accomplishment. Big wave surfing also brought adventure, respect, and camaraderie, which I found captivating. At 18, I signed my first professional sponsorship, enabling me to chase big waves year-round for nearly two decades.
FSM: What does Waimea Bay represent to you?
Greg Long: Waimea Bay is the birthplace of big wave surfing and holds a deep cultural history within the Waimea Valley. It’s one of the most beautiful, powerful places in the world.
FSM: How did you feel when you got invited to the Eddie Aikau event, and what was it like to win?
Greg Long: Being invited to the Eddie was a dream come
FSM: How has your role shifted from being a professional athlete to an ambassador for environmental causes?
Greg Long: My role now is to use the platform I built in the surfing community to amplify the work of conservation organizations. Whether it’s fundraising, outreach, or policy lobbying, the work is rewarding, though I surf less now. The joy I get from chasing waves is still there, but now I’m chasing a wave of change.
FSM: You used to chase waves worldwide, but now you’re pursuing change. Can you describe this evolution?
Greg Long: I’ve always enjoyed challenging myself, and while big wave surfing was once my arena, I now find fulfillment in environmental work. The changes we need are simple—
" I vividly remember my four waves, but the rest of the day is a blur, filled with nerves and excitement. The Eddie is unlike any other event in the world."
true, a bucket list goal for any big wave surfer. Winning the competition is my greatest surfing achievement. The energy of the day, with massive and consistent waves, was overwhelming. I vividly remember my four waves, but the rest of the day is a blur, filled with nerves and excitement. The Eddie is unlike any other event in the world.
FSM: How did you get involved with the Surfrider Foundation?
Greg Long: I started working with Surfrider in the early 2000s on the “Save Trestles Campaign” to stop a toll road from being built in my hometown. Surfrider is incredible at implementing change, from grassroots campaigns to federal policy. For years, my focus was still on surfing, but after some near-death experiences and injuries, I reassessed my priorities. I wanted to give back, which led me to work with organizations like Surfrider and Parley for the Oceans.
we must live in harmony with the natural world. This means embracing sustainable practices, reducing waste, and promoting biodiversity. It’s about recognizing our interconnectedness with the planet and acting accordingly.
FSM: What would you say to those feeling overwhelmed about making a difference?
Greg Long: No individual can change the world, but we can all change our own world. Start by making changes on a personal level, without comparing yourself to others. The feeling of sadness about environmental or social issues is a reflection of the love we have for those places or people. Tapping into that love can inspire us to push forward and contribute to a collective effort for change.
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Getting the shot
By Brian Bielmann
Sets were closing out the bay. I counted about ten before the sun even came up. After debating whether it was just too big to run the event, the decision was made for an 8:00 AM start. Quiksilver, who I was photographing for, told me that if I didn’t want to shoot from a ski, I didn’t have to. I seriously considered staying on land but decided that if I didn’t take this opportunity, I’d never forgive myself. So, I suited up and headed to the beach where the skis were taking off. I jumped on one and we headed out. We were pretty lucky and made it through the shore break. The first few sets were big and had that early morning sickness, but within about ten minutes, we got a message from Mel Puu on the radio screaming: "The biggest set of the morning is coming in— get everybody out of there!" All the skis headed for the outside, praying we wouldn’t get caught inside the incoming waves. I had a solid driver, Makaha Craig, and I knew I was in good hands. Craig was experienced, and that makes all the difference.
We made it over the first wave, but the second one was huge. We hit the gas and barely made it over. What I saw after that was the biggest wave I’d ever seen up close. It stretched across the entire bay and was super steep. The surfers were farther out and managed to get over, but we were inside, and it was going to close out on us. We started going sideways, looking for a place to make it over, but there was no way out. Craig had to turn the ski at the top of the wave, and we had to ride this 30 to 40-foot wall of water. We were going so fast, and I could hear and feel the wave breaking right behind us.
At the moment this photo was taken, you can see Craig looking back at me, saying, "You may have to jump." We ended up riding that monster all the way in. At the last moment, Craig turned the ski around, and we had to go back through the
shore break. We made it through the first wave, but I got thrown off. I managed to climb back on the ski in time to get over the second shore break wave. From there, we headed out again, zigzagging to find sections that weren’t breaking. It was pretty crazy, but we finally made it back out. Both of us were screaming and hooting that we made it. I said, "That was the craziest situation I’ve ever been through," and Craig replied, "Me too!" I was like, “Wait, don’t tell me that—you’re water patrol, a lifeguard, and a stuntman for the movies!”
That comment got rid of my butterflies for the rest of the session. After that, I was ready for anything. It was one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life, and I’ll never forget it. Craig got us through it. I’ve always believed you’re only as good as your driver—thanks, buddy, you da man!
Photo Clark Little
U-SURF CUP by Shutaku
By Aukai Ng Photos Brent Bielmann, Linda Kea and Aukai Ng
Over the last few years, there has been a rise of longboarders from Waikiki competing on the Championship World Tour. With more representation from Queens beach, there are more eyes on Hawaiian longboarding. However, many Hawaiians want to see this Hawaiian longboard momentum continue. They see the need for younger longboarders to be equipped with the knowledge of competition. This is where Daniel Uchimura comes in. Daniel Uchimura is a professional longboard hailing from Waikiki beach, where he built his career through Hawaiʻi as well as on the Japanese longboard tour. He worked his way up the ladder but alway felt there was a better way for him to learn competitive skills as a grom. “As I was growing up, going from the amateurs and eventually going up to the pros, we didn't learn a lot. We were kind of thrown into the lion's den. We didn't know what it was to have priority. What is that about? I didn't understand it. The rules, the usage, and the ups and downs about it.” Daniel had the idea to manage a contest where the kids knew the fundamentals of
professional surfing. “Everybody here that has entered the contest here in Waikiki, we've always known it as a six man, paddle battle, dog eat dog contest. And you know, six kids in the water for 15 minutes is always great. But once they want to turn professional, it does turn into a four man with priority. You have to utilize how to use it, when to use it. And there's so many variations of using priority, good and bad. And I want these kids to be able to learn and understand what it is to be a professional surfer in the future.” He made sure he implemented the priority system, and utilized WSL style judging and scoring. With this system part of the contest, it was a way for the kids to take strategizing and scoring seriously. “I always told myself if I ever can hold a contest, I want to make sure the next generation doesn't have to go through what I did. So they know what to do when they're in the same predicament as I was. I don't want kids to be out there with fear and I want them to be out there with confidence representing where they're from and doing what they love to do.”
U-SURF CUP by Shutaku
Not only is this event a way for the kids to improve their skills, this is a contest that is very family friendly for the whole community. The age divisions range from the push in Kokua in Baby Queens, 10-13 and 14-17 with a priority system. There is also a team division for all the friend groups and families to compete and share the lineup together. Daniel spares no expense to make sure everyone has a good time. The amount of games and prizes is endless. Each day everyone went home with full bellies from the delicious food provided. And many board shapers were excited to donate some great models for the raffle. The amount of fun and excitement filled the whole beach during this three day weekend. Daniel was more than thankful for the amount of support she received from the community. From the groms of Waikiki to the professionals from across Hawaiʻi to even his sponsors from Japan. “I just thank everybody who's come out, supported my contest here in Waikiki Beach and it's just a turnout of people, families, and friends. Words can't describe the feeling that I have for everybody that showed up and supported me.” This was a contest that everyone wanted to be a part of and Daniel hopes to keep his dream contest alive for years to come.
"Great, great contest for the kids here. All the kids are having a great time. Daniel is putting it upon himself to get the kids involved and surfing in the contest, camaraderie and doing the competition. And just overall showing Aloha and, you know, making sure that the kids portray that too when they're surfing in the lineup. " - Dino Miranda
"It's just super special to be down here with the community and that's just very special for Queens. The vibe down here is really good. Amazing food, amazing people and it's special to Queens. " - Bella Eberz
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U-SURF CUP by Shutaku
"You know, this event is so special. Basically we're closing out the summer, so it's a nice last pow wow with everyone involved, all the families, so many prizes, so many games, they're giving out so many cool things. So this is just like all around, perfect way to end the summer. So thank you to you, Yosh for putting this wonderful event on." - Kelia Moniz
"The talent here is the future. They all surf, unreal. I'm impressed, I'm very impressed. The girls, they're great, the guys, they're good. They're just getting better and better. Someday we're gonna have a world champ out of this contest, guaranteed." - Lance
Ho’okano
Rachael Tilly and Taylor Jensen Win Surf City El Salvador Longboard Championships, Claim 2024 World Longboard Titles
Rachael Tilly (USA) and Taylor Jensen (USA) won the World Surf League (WSL) Surf City El Salvador Longboard Championships to claim the 2024 World Longboard Titles. The Southern California duo, Tilly and Jensen, dominated their showings in flawless form to emerge victorious in beautiful, three-to-five-foot conditions at El Sunzal in El Salvador. In their Title Matches, Tilly bested reigning WSL Longboard Champion Soleil Errico (USA) for her second World Longboard Title before Jensen’s commanding win over defending WSL Longboard Champion Kai Sallas (HAW), marking his historic fourth World Longboard Title.
Rachael Tilly Earns Long-Awaited Second World Longboard Championship
Rachael Tilly (USA), 26, claimed her first World Longboard Title in 2015 to become the youngest WSL Longboard Champion and now boasts her second after her success today. Dana Point, California’s own Tilly returned from her brief competition hiatus in 2022 and continues to show her love for the sport each year as a World Longboard Title threat.
The women’s first Title Match witnessed Tilly hold her momentum from a brilliant Match 3 bout with three-time WSL Longboard Champion Honolua Blomfield (HAW) into the Title Match against No. 1 seeded competitor Soleil Errico (USA). Tilly’s opening 6.67 bested that of Errico’s 6.27 (out of a
possible 10) as the two traded off in multiple exchanges. The Southern Californians, Tilly and Errico, continued to battle, with Tilly earning a backup 6.23 and pushing Errico into needing a solid score. But, Tilly held strong and claimed the first Title Match.
Tilly continued her incredible showing with another excellent performance in Title Match 2 against Errico, posting an 8.17 to establish a dominant lead heading into the final minutes. Errico, needing a 9.40, posted a 6.57 to lower her requirement, but Tilly answered right back with a 6.87 in another exchange as time dwindled down. Errico’s response earned her an excellent 8.10, but it wasn’t enough after Tilly’s showcase already raised the requirement once more. Time expired and Tilly emerged the 2024 WSL Longboard Champion, her second World Longboard Title.
Rachael Tilly and Taylor Jensen of the United States after winning the 2024 World Titles at the Surf City El Salvador Longboard Championships. Photo by Tommy Pierucki/WSL
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Taylor Jensen Joins History Books with Fourth World Longboard Title
Oceanside, California’s own Taylor Jensen (USA) joins an elite list of World Longboard Champions after capturing his fourth. With Jensen earning his first World Longboard Title in 2011, he continues to show he’s capable of setting the bar after a stunning Title Match performance today against Kai Sallas (HAW). At age 40, Jensen shows no sign of slowing down after joining his father-in-law Nat Young (USA) as a four-time World Longboard Champion.
Men’s Title Match 1 tested the patience of two of the sport’s icons between No. 1 seed Jensen and defending WSL Longboard Champion Kai Sallas (HAW). Jensen broke the tense start with a solid opportunity, showcasing his variety on the nose and signature powerful rail game. The judges rewarded Jensen’s efforts with an excellent 8.00 and put early pressure on Sallas.
Jensen picked up where he left off in Title Match 1, beginning the second Title Match with a 7.33 to Sallas’ 3.50. But Jensen wasn’t close to done and posted the day’s highest singlewave score of a near-perfect 9.33 to post a decimating heat total over Sallas. When the dust settled and the horn sounded, Jensen earned his fourth World Longboard Title.
2023 World Longboard Champions Soleil Errico and Kai Sallas Nearly Complete Repeat Wins
The reigning WSL Longboard Champions, Soleil Errico (USA) and Kai Sallas (HAW), finished their 2024 campaigns in second place. Errico entered this event as the No. 1 seeded competitor and recently overcame a knee injury that forced her to withdraw from competition in Abu Dhabi. A valiant performance from the three-time WSL Longboard Champion earned her an excellent 8.10 in the dying moments of Title Match 2, but it was too late to mount a comeback against Tilly.
Sallas’ performance throughout 2024 landed him back into the Top 8 to defend his World Longboard Title, entering as the No. 4 seed. After dealing with an in-form Kaniela Stewart (HAW) and fellow Longboard Tour veteran Ben Skinner (GBR) in Match 2, Sallas then went on to face No. 3 seed Rogelio JR Esquievel (PHL). Sallas’ form bested Esquievel to then take on fellow Waikiki standout, World No. 2 John Michael Van Hohenstein (HAW), with the two trading off in brilliant exchanges. In the end, Sallas took control and returned to the Title Match in hopes of defending his Longboard World Title. But Jensen’s impeccable form was unstoppable, and Sallas fell just short, and he ended the season ranked No. 2 in the world.
Rachael Tilly
Photo by Tommy Pierucki/WSL
For years, scientists have known how well taro (Coloasia esculenta), a plant we call kalo in Hawai’i, removes nutrients from water. It’s not just a food source; it’s key to a healthy environment.
Sage Hawaiian farmers knew very well the benefits of growing this food for sustenance but also beneficial land and water management. The good news here is that this wisdom is making a comeback!
In the past, Hawai’i’s farmers stopped growing kalo in wetland areas (lo’i kalo) when sugarcane companies diverted water to their fields. This harmed the wetlands, and the effects are still felt today. These lo’i kalo areas were once a vital part of Hawai’i’s ecosystem, playing a crucial role in cleaning water and supporting cultural traditions.
When it rains in Hawai’i, water runs down from the mountains, picking up pollutants and nutrients. But when this runoff reaches a lo’i, it slows down, allowing the sediment to settle and the plants to absorb excess nutrients. This process filters the water before it flows into rivers and eventually the ocean.
Without these natural filters, harmful substances can make their way into the water, affecting both wildlife and people.
For example, on the shores of O’ahu, monk seals and sea turtles have been found with infections like MRSA, a type of bacteria that is resistant to antibiotics. Once mostly found in hospitals, MRSA has now spread to wildlife and even humans. One source of this contamination is the invasive pig population, which spreads bacteria as runoff carries it down to the shore. In Hawai’i, MRSA-related deaths are twice the national average, showing the importance of proper water management.
The traditional ahupua’a system of land management in Hawai’i once helped balance human needs with environmental care. This system divided the land from the mountains (mauka) to the ocean (makai), ensuring that each community had access to forests, streams, farmland, and fishing areas. By sharing resources and working together, communities could maintain the land sustainably, ensuring future generations would benefit.
Lo’i patches were not only a source of food, but they were also central to Hawai’ian culture and identity. When these systems broke down due to watershed damage, it disrupted both cultural traditions and food independence. The knowledge passed down through generations about sustainable farming practices began to fade, disconnecting people from their ancestral lands and heritage.
Today, there is a growing effort to bring back these traditional ways of managing land. Groups like Kahu ʻĀina (formerly Aloha ʻĀina) from the Council For Native Hawaiian Advancement and The Hanai Collective in Waialua, O’ahu, are working to restore these practices. Their aim is to tackle modern environmental and social issues by looking to the past for sustainable solutions.
Community efforts, alongside policies to protect these ecosystems, are critical. Educating people about the dangers of pollution and the need for clean water is essential for the well-being of future generations.
Learn more at: hawaiiancouncil.org
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Maui’s own Jackson Bunch secured the final spot for the 2025 World Surf League Championship Tour after Marco Mignot’s quarterfinal victory over Levi Slawson at the Corona Saquarema Pro, presented by Banco do Brasil.
On the verge of a breakthrough at the close of his sophomore season in the Challenger Series, Bunch delivered standout performances at the Ballito Pro and Lexus US Open of Surfing, boosting his ranking. In a tight race to the finish, just 330 points—or a few critical waves—separated him from the pack, earning him the 10th and final spot for a chance to compete against the world’s best at Pipeline in 2025.
Rescue: HI-Surf, which premiered on September 22 on FOX, is TV's highest-rated fall drama debut in six years, drawing 4.7 million viewers per Nielsen ratings. Produced by John Wells Productions, Warner Bros. Television, and FOX Entertainment, the show hired a local Hawai‘i producer and crew, including 100% of its water unit hires. It now airs Mondays at 8 p.m. on KHON in Hawai‘i.
The series follows North Shore lifeguards in a high-stakes drama created by Matt Kester, with John Wells directing the first episodes. Brian Keaulana, a renowned lifeguard, is the show's producer and stunt coordinator, using a fully local water unit. Kester, a North Shore native, brings community insight to the series.
A special episode will air after Super Bowl LIX on February 9, 2025, maximizing national exposure.
The 2024 Rip Curl GromSearch National Final, held at the Palm Springs Surf Club, showcased the best young surfers in the country under the blazing 110-degree sun. The state-of-the-art wave pool produced perfect 4-foot A-frame waves, performance waves, and slab waves, setting the stage for an unforgettable competition full of barrels and air. Groms who competed had qualified in the California, Florida, and Hawaiʻi GromSearch events, along with some athlete & sponsor selected wildcards.
This year, champions were crowned across four divisions: Girls Under 14, Boys Under 14, Girls Under 16, and Boys Under 16. Notable performances included Eden Walla from San Clemente, California, who secured the title of Girls Under 16 Champion, and Lucas Cassity from Todos Santos, Mexico, who was named Boys Under 16 Champion.
Specialty awards were also presented, highlighting outstanding performances: Banzai Bowls Best Air went to Beckham McCart, Lost Surfboards Highest Single Wave Score earned by Eden Walla, and the Soft Tech Surfboards Expression Session winner was taken by Brodi Buck.
The event attracted an impressive 25,000+ viewers who tuned in via the @couchsurfingshow to catch all the action.
Surfer Dax McGill has welcomed a new addition to her family, giving birth to a baby boy on October 2, 2024. McGill shared the exciting news on social media, writing, "A moment I’ll never forget, introducing our first to our rainbow baby, Scout Billie Byers."
Team Riders: Kalea and Cruz Craft Photo by Dad
THE 2025 WSL CHAMPIONSHIP TOUR (CT) SCHEDULE
The World Surf League (WSL) released the 2025 Championship Tour (CT) schedule. The combined men’s and women’s calendar will feature 11 regular-season events, including the addition of Abu Dhabi and the return of Snapper Rocks, Lower Trestles, and Jeffreys Bay. A new venue for the 2025 WSL Finals will see next year’s World Titles contested at Cloudbreak, Fiji.
2025 WSL Championship Tour Schedule
Stop 1 – Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii, USA: January 27 – February 8
Stop 2 – Surf Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi, UAE: February 14 – 16
Stop 3 – Peniche, Portugal: March 15 – 25
BOARD STORIES
6 DAYS A WEEK!
Stop 4 – Punta Roca, El Salvador: April 2 – 12
Stop 5 – Bells Beach, Victoria, Australia: April 18 – 28
Stop 7 – Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia: May 17 – 27*
-Mid-Season Cut-
Stop N8 – Lower Trestles, San Clemente, Calif., USA: June 9 – 17
Stop 9 – Saquarema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: June 21 – 29
Stop 10 – Jeffreys Bay, South Africa: July 11 – 20
Stop 11 – Teahupo’o, Tahiti, French Polynesia: August 7 – 16**
Stop 12 – WSL Finals – Cloudbreak, Fiji: August 27 – September 4
*Mid-season Cut reduces fields after Stop No. 7.
**WSL Final 5s determined to battle for the men’s and women’s World Titles.
After beginning on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, at surfing’s spiritual home of Pipeline, the 2025 CT visits locations old and new, taking in nine countries across 11 regular-season events and the WSL Finals. The schedule continues to place the Mid-season Cut after Western Australia. A full seven events will run before the reduced field competes for a spot in the Final 5 during the remaining four events.you at Pipe.”
A serendipitous moment as Luke Shepardson drops into heavy Waimea Bay while Mikey Redd and Makua Rothman. paddles over with a quick glimpse at the champion crowned later that day.
