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The LPMI team’s been writing...
This month, Aurelia’s story on the stunning region of Tohoku in Japan shows why it should be on your list of places to visit in 2020. Amit, meanwhile, checks out the new and promising attractions around the Statue of Unity (SoU) in Kevadia, Gujarat.
Aurelia takes a break from ha ulin for the photographers in Tog ahofloat to pose ku
rs do near the Statue to si vi t os m t ha w es do Amit e taller! of Unity. He wishes he wer
THIS MONTH’S COVER
editor’s note
PHOTOGRAPH: SUSAN RICHEY/ 123RF
Primrose Monteiro-D’Souza, Editor Follow me on Twitter @PrimroseDSouza & Instagram @primrosedsouza
Witnessing the great migration in Africa is on the bucket lists of travellers across the world. Excitement and danger are givens with this great swarm.
Let travel transform your life… Can it? It can. Because, when you travel right, it changes the way you’ve lived thus far, and changes the perspective with which you will approach your days to come. Our 50+ travel goals this issue are all very different. Some of them gently challenge our physical limits, others tease the boundaries of our comfort zones. A few are sure to make serious demands on our bank balances. As you read through them, you will find goals that are easily achievable, others that will take a bit of planning, some you might be doing already. All of them are meant to invite us to look again at the experiences we would like to add to our lives. Perhaps you’d like to look polar bears in the eye from within a massive buggy in Churchill, Canada. Witness the migration of the wildebeest (with zebra and crocs as co-travellers) in Africa. Choose to visit a little-explored part of Japan – Tohoku is, incidentally, one of Lonely Planet’s Top 10 regions for 2020. Seek out the ancient port of Muziris near Kochi, Kerala. Or, so exciting, actually plan 10 days in Brazil with Kaushal Karkhanis, who has spent much of his recent life immersing himself in South America. It could be simpler aspirations too – to eat unusual foods in India or forage for your supper across the world, find your dancing feet in a different part of the world, look down from great heights, or spend the night in the jungle – or on a luxury train right here in the sub-continent. Whatever your threshold rk off a thirst to add a new dimension to your travel calendar.
VOLUME 10, ISSUE 12 | JANUARY 2020
In this issue... EXPLORE
Your world of new discoveries 08
Weekend planners: Sample mouthwatering treats in Jaipur, Rajasthan, discover an unusual side to Ooty, Tamil Nadu, delve into the colonial past in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, and other ways to make the most of your weekends
14
Quirky competitions: A year of unusual sports
16 Plan now: Rio Carnival 18
The collection: Urban walks
22
More reasons to get out there: To discover Bulgaria, unearth literary riches in Calicut, Kerala, experience concerts and Broadway shows in New York, the USA, and more
JOURNAL
Tales from the road 34
The Photo Story: Face off in mysterious Bhutan
38
Your Photos: A farmer with his produce at a grain market in Chandigarh, and other snapshots from you
41 Instagram photo challenge: Winter
MINI GUIDES
Themed guides to pull out and take with you 118 Enjoy an unusual summer in Cape Town, South Africa 120 Fill up on local delicacies and earn some karma in Madurai, Tamil Nadu 122 Delve into the mythology of magical Krakow, Poland
FOLLOW US ON Lonely Planet Magazine India
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Seek out the largest land predator – safely, pg 62
Introducing our new front sections EXPL ORE 5 FREEBIES
Chennai, India Hav
explore
p19
p08
The Kamakshi Amman emple is impo tant for Shakti worship
BERL
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2
4
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AD EDAB AHM(88km)
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Look beyond the obvious
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Appreciate ancient architecture, sample delec able street food or marvel at fossils he options are many Words SAMAR AN BHOWMIK
@sum err pun
F ll up on delicious local fare in Jaipur Rajasthan The most obvious things to do in Jaipur might be to gawk at the stunning architecture or to shop your heart out but we encourage you to look beyond the usual Try he local cuisine t’s delectable and caters to a wide variety of tastes Rawat Misthan Bhandar might not have space to s t but you won’t mind tanding wh le you wolf down pyaaz kachori (deep-fried pastry stuffed w th onion potato and masala) and piping hot jalebis (00 91 141-236-0608 Station Rd near Polo Victory Cinema 6 30am – 10 30pm pyaaz kachori ` 30 jalebi ` 350/ kg) Fo low up wi h the lassi at Lassiwala (00 91 141 2378692 312 MI Rd 8am – 4pm lassi ` 25) If you thought the local fare would only include vegetarian op ions you couldn t be further from he tru h Dispel your doubts w th he mou hwatering mutton niha i at Islami Kallu Hotel (00 91 9680421320 135/ 136 Ramganj Bazaar 6 30am – 12am biryani ` 80 niha i ` 200) The meat cooked for six to 10 hours simply s ides off the bone If more variety is your hing head on down to Saba Have i (00-91 141 2630521 477 Gangapole 11 30am – 2 30pm 7pm – 11pm eservations p efe red non veg tha i ` 750 veg ha i ` 650) The have i itse f is awe-inspiring and the meal served on silver ha is in a mult tude of katoris is superbly elabo ate Expect the unexpected in Jaipur the food is not just delicious t’s an experience to remember
Go on a temple un across Kanchipuram Tamil Nadu Wh le most people know this busy i tle town for sa is and idlis the temple architecture here is fascina ing Most of he places of worship were constructed during the Pa lava dynasty from 6 h – 8 h century BC so even if you’ e not religious you’ l get a magical g impse into the ich history of he region Sta t your day early befo e ho des of the fa thful overrun he temple complexes Make your first stop Kailasanatha Temple the oldest in town dating back to 8th century BC You wi l spot half-animal de ties characteristic of early Dravidian architecture along wi h he 108 dance poses of Shiva in stone and this is s i l a func ional temple so you can offer praye s here (6 30am – 6 30pm inner sanctum 6 30am – 12pm 4pm – 6 30pm f ee) Head next to the Vaikunta Perimal Temple for a g impse of he historic and my hological scenes carved onto the wa ls (8 30am – 12pm 4pm – 8 30pm photog aphy prohibited in the inner sanctum free) Finish up he day’s run wi h he Varadaraja Perumal Temple famed for ts marriage hal (9am – 12 30pm 3 30pm – 5pm entry ` 1 camera fee ` 5) There are a hundred p llars here all etched wi h extravagant ca vings Three temples might not seem l ke much for an entire day’s i inerary but given he exqui ite deta ls you’ e bound to take your time taking it a l in And he e w ll s i l be more left to see next time
STAY: Arya N was (www a yaniwas com from ` 1 500) Saba Haveli (www sabahaveli com f om ` 5 500)
STAY: Sree Sak hi Res dency (www s eesakthiresidency com from ` 1 700) GRT Regency Hotel (www g thotels com f om ` 3 500)
J O U R N A L
Marvel at the past in Balasinor Gujarat Royalty and dinosaurs might usually only be associated toge her in sarcastic jokes but in Balasinor a two-hour drive from Ahmedabad there’s a far more inte es ing connect Balasinor hosts the 72 acre Dinosaur Foss l Park For m l ions of yea s he fossils here lay ignored unt l they were discove ed as recen ly as in 1981 Even a ter hat t’s been di ficult getting hese the recogni ion they deserve You could explore he park by you se f but t’s difficult for the inexperienced to diffe en iate between a regular rock and a foss l (despite the fences a ound some of the foss ls) The best guide to have is the custodian of the pa k Aa iya Su tana Babi princess from he oyal fam ly of Balasinor Not only does she have in-dep h knowledge of he ancient secrets buried here but she’ l also discuss dino ex inction heories and he research hat went into the foss l s tes here One highlight is the pit in which fossils from the Rajasaurus Narmadensis a predatory species from the late Cretaceous period were found It’s not a l prehisto ic hough the attrac ions here – you can also experience iving w th oyalty at the Garden Palace Her tage Homestay home of Balasinor’s royal fam ly (00 91 73591-46071 Garden Palace Rd Balasinor) A trip to Balasinor is a journey into he past un ike any o her
ENJOY SOME PEACE A QUIET If, instead, you want a bit of ak from the hustle bustle of the city, head on down t the Theosophical ety y Spread across 260 acres, the e enormous property me to the Huddleston Garden s, which, w in turn, is home mals such as jackal, wild cat, mo ongoose, hare and variety of migratory birds Enjo oy a tranquil walk tch up on some reading in the library, and e titles at the bookshop nearb alapuram,
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RIO CARNIVAL FACTS
Join the carnival in Brazil t
,000 20,00number of
Rio’s s reets, bars When the world’s biggest carnival fi ls it’s a celebra ion and the Sambódromo venue in February, rooms or that’s central to Brazilian life Book hotel moves now apartments, and start practising your samba WHAT IS IT? The original carnival
brought over by the Portuguese had its elabo ate costumes but it eally gained ts energy w th he input of Afro-Braz lian music and dance Rio’s samba schools each w th its own colour scheme and theme tunes now compete to drum out he loudest beat put together the flashiest floats and fit he mo t
sequins on the least amount of clo hing WHEN TO SEE IT The main ac ion e takes place over the five days befo the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday In 2020 he dates wi l be February 21 to 25 You’ l also find rehearsals and par ies in the weeks before and there’s a parade of champions on the Saturday a ter (cheaper to
see than the head ine show) WHERE TO SEE IT The showpiece of carnival is the Sambód omo an avenue lined on both sides with permanent grandstands This is where he 14 top samba schools strut their stuff seven on he Sunday night and seven he following evening Carnival isn’t a l
Estimated revellers on each day of Rio’s carnival
about the Sambód omo most ca iocas (locals) and vis tors wi l celeb ate on the streets without the need for tickets Bandas and blocos (st eet pa ties led respec ively by brass bands and drummers) can be
500+
Number of street parties in the city
found all over he city Famous ones include he mas ive blackand white garbed Cordão da Bola Preta and the carnival-
ending Monobloco HOW TO SEE IT The Sambódromo webs te (www liesa globo com) is in Portuguese only and many other online ticket-sellers can be unreliable Booking hrough registered tour operators such as Tucan Travel (www tucantravel com/ rio carniva ) is a safer bet Official prices sta t at around ` 3 700 though t’s common to pay several times that See the Lonely Planet Rio de Janeiro guide for mo e GETT NG THERE While there are no di ect flights to Rio from India several carriers such as Air India Luf hansa and Emirates have connecting flights from a l major airports
90,000
Seating capacity of the Sambódromo
75
Number of minutes (give or take) that each samba school gets to parade in the Sambódromo
p16
STAY: Ga den Palace Heritage Homestay (www palacebalasinor com bookingsbalasinor@gmail com from ` 4 480)
p42
p34
Shiny,
HAPPYFaces
Asia’s happiest country has a lot of stories to tell. And we mean that litera ly. @k ishnap abakar
@oreallyeah
“IS BHUTAN REALLY A HAPPY COUNTRY?” Krishna asked, breaking the brief moment of silence in he car as we drove from Phuentsholing to Thimphu “Are people really happy, or is that just some hing everyone says?” he pressed on, looking expec antly at Bheem, our driver and guide of sorts, who kept his eyes glued to the road, but had a wide grin on his face
#1
TRY IN COUN NET'S LY PLA LONE IN
BEST EL TRAV
2020
Your s Phophoto tos and
Your travel ind them the stories beh
TRUTH GRAIN OF h, Punjab
et he grain mark e was come This pictur h Farmers Chandigar ce in Sector 39 es o se l produ he nearby villag y crop at here from o se l his padd and came sacks man This on the h m si ting told me market I saw h h m He rsation wi (to sell) since started a conve g for his turn ed he was waitin He also point was t red nt for r arrangeme morning and was no prope ers out hat there nearby Farm l or eateries water et for a fu drinking in the mark s often stay and rader times two day some ish h based Man Chandigar enjoys na Kumar Mee y pho graph travel and
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TALES FROM THE ROAD
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1917
Year that Pelo Telefone, \PW]OP\ \W JM \PM ÅZ[\ recorded samba track, was released SECTION MORE ON BRAZ L IN OUR FEATURES
THE PHOTO STORY
Photographs Krishna P abakar T
5
INDULGE IN SOME ART The Focus Art Gallery is one of the finest forums for art in the city Showings include works by both conte porary artists and t
PLAN NOW
A bit of armchair travel is the best way to inspire a future trip. If you can’t get away this month or simply want to drift off on a daydream for an hour or two, let our writers, photographers and travellers take you on a vicarious journey, whether to London or the lively streets of Mumbai.
Words Au elia Fernandes
LOSE YOURSELF AMID SEVEN FLOORS OF LITERA TURE The Anna Centenary Library , built at a cost of `172 crores and named after the former chief minister of Tamil Nadu CN Annadurai, is a state of the art facility the perfect sanctua ry for bibliophiles with a total of 1 2 million books spread across seven floors You'll find a massive collecti on of regional reads and high end university books, too (www annace ntenarylibrary org; Gandhi Mandapam Rd, Surya Nagar, Kotturpuram)
EXPLORE
GL A ON, EN LOND
de and ma ed out Mapp ing trail lov good by and non profit rs voluntee 17 mile the groups, (pictured n Trail in Crosstow urated s inaug right) wa It connects 19. spaces June 20 green d an ays pathw and ed rat leb from both ce wending n ersung, int in Sa estick Po east to ’s south up in the ción ia Visita McLaren nway, and anyon There te Park. riants, : endly va sporadic is posting e tak . rget to il maps tra dable .org wnloa ail ntr sstow www.cro
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HS: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T (MAR NA BEACH), BELYAEV A LIBRARY) VIACHESLAV/ 23RF.COM (THEOSOPHICAL SOC ETY),
1
STROLL BY THE SEA Of course, the most obviou s choice for those looking to get the most out of Chennai without spending a rupee is Marina Beach At 6km, it is the longest beach in the country and attracts thousands of visitors With so many p about and as many vendor hawking their wares, from s snacks to curios, the beach is most suited o those who are looking to be amid the hustle bustle of a big city definitely showcases the flashier side of Chennai and will get you e trademark shots for your Instagram feed
YOUR WORLD OF DISCOVERIES Whatever type of trip you’re planning this month, we’ve got the know-how to help you on your way. Our experts and locals share their recommendations and insider tips, meaning you’ll have a better holiday, whether you fancy a quick city break, an active trip that will really push your boundaries or a lazy weekend in the countryside.
e a good trip in Tamil Nad u's ital with these free experienc es
In this issue... VOLUME 10, ISSUE 12 | JANUARY 2020
FEATURES Goals that make the journey worthy 43
Let Brazil seduce you with its smorgasbord of marvellous experiences
58 Witness beauty on a grand scale with swarms across the planet 60
Challenge your taste buds with unusual foods across India
62
Marvel at how humans live alongside an apex predator in Churchill, Canada
74
Follow in the pioneering footsteps of our ancestors and embrace the joy of discovery
76
Ride in majestic luxury across the dramatic landscapes of the subcontinent
78 Soak up solitude by travelling when most others don’t 80 Discover sweeping views from up high 82 Unearth the secrets of the Tohuku region in Japan 92 Set off on a journey to rediscover the primal fascination with darkness 94 Get out and gather your own food 96 Set out on your own to discover Mallorca, Spain, like few do 102 Let the raw power of nature teach you vital life lessons 104 Feel an absolute connect with nature in the heart of a jungle 106 Make your moves without a care in the world, and follow your own tune 108 Seek out gorgeous shoot locations across our country 110 Journey into the glorious past at Port Muziris, in Kochi, Kerala
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January 2020
Live out your South American fantasy in Brazil, pg 46 Unearth the bestkept secrets of the Tohuku region, Japan, pg 82
Dance to your own tunes, pg 106
explore THE BEST OF THE MONTH'S TIPS & TRIPS
PHOTOGRAPH: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T
Few Indian cities have as deep a connect with our colonial past as Lucknow does. Explore architecture and legends from an era that saw the first uprising against the British Empire sweep the entire nation (see our Weekend Planner: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, in this section)
The Kamakshi Amman temple is important for Shakti worship
Look beyond the obvious
I NNA E H C m) (72k
Appreciate ancient architecture, sample delectable street food or marvel at fossils... the options are many Words SAMARPAN BHOWMIK
@sum.err.pun
of
Go on a temple run across Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu While most people know this busy little town for saris and idlis, the temple architecture here is fascinating. Most of the places of worship were constructed during the Pallava dynasty, from 6th – 8th century BC, so, even if you’re not religious, you’ll get a magical glimpse into the rich history of the region. Start your day early, before hordes of the faithful overrun the temple complexes. Make your first stop Kailasanatha Temple, the oldest in town, dating back to 8th century BC. You will spot half-animal deities, characteristic of early Dravidian architecture, along with the 108 dance poses of Shiva in stone, and this is still a functional temple, so you can offer prayers here (6.30am – 6.30pm, inner sanctum; 6.30am – 12pm, 4pm – 6.30pm; free). Head next to the Vaikunta Perimal Temple for a glimpse of the historic and mythological scenes carved onto the walls (8.30am – 12pm, 4pm – 8.30pm; photography prohibited in the inner sanctum; free). Finish up the day’s run with the Varadaraja Perumal Temple, famed for its marriage hall (9am – 12.30pm, 3.30pm – 5pm; entry: ` 1, camera fee: ` 5). There are a hundred pillars here, all etched with extravagant carvings. Three temples might not seem like much for an entire day’s itinerary but, given the exquisite details, you’re bound to take your time taking it all in. And there will still be more left to see next time. STAY: Sree Sakthi Residency (www.sreesakthiresidency.com; from ` 1,700); GRT Regency Hotel (www.grthotels.com; from ` 3,500)
8
January 2020
PHOTOGRAPHS: VINOBHA NATHAN (KANCHIPURAM), HIMANSHU PANDYA (BALASINOR AND JAIPUR)
Out
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1 & 2. The thick, rich and creamy lassi from Lassiwala qualifies as a meal in itself 3 & 4. The fossils at Balasinor were only discovered as recently as in 1981
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Fill up on delicious local fare in Jaipur, Rajasthan The most obvious things to do in Jaipur might be to gawk at the stunning architecture or to shop your heart out, but we encourage you to look beyond the usual. Try the local cuisine; it’s delectable and caters to a wide variety of tastes. Rawat Misthan Bhandar might not have space to sit, but you won’t mind standing while you wolf down pyaaz kachori (deep-fried pastry stuffed with onion, potato and masala) and piping-hot jalebis (00-91-141-236-0608; Station Rd, near Polo Victory Cinema; 6.30am – 10.30pm; pyaaz kachori: ` 30, jalebi: ` 350/ kg). Follow up with the lassi at Lassiwala (00-91-141-2378692; 312, MI Rd; 8am – 4pm; lassi: ` 25). If you thought the local fare would only include vegetarian options, you couldn’t be further from the truth. Dispel your doubts with the mouthwatering mutton nihari at Islami Kallu Hotel (00-91-9680421320; 135/ 136, Ramganj Bazaar; 6.30am – 12am; biryani: ` 80, nihari: ` 200). The meat, cooked for six to 10 hours, simply slides off the bone. If more variety is your thing, head on down to Saba Haveli (00-91-141-2630521; 477, Gangapole; 11.30am – 2.30pm, 7pm – 11pm, reservations preferred; non-veg thali: ` 750, veg thali: ` 650). The haveli itself is awe-inspiring, and the meal, served on silver thalis in a multitude of katoris, is superbly elaborate. Expect the unexpected in Jaipur; the food is not just delicious, it’s an experience to remember. STAY: Arya Niwas (www.aryaniwas.com; from ` 1,500); Saba Haveli (www. sabahaveli.com; from ` 5,500)
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Marvel at the past in Balasinor, Gujarat Royalty and dinosaurs might usually only be associated together in sarcastic jokes, but, in Balasinor, a two-hour drive from Ahmedabad, there’s a far more interesting connect. Balasinor hosts the 72-acre Dinosaur Fossil Park. For millions of years, the fossils here lay ignored until they were discovered as recently as in 1981. Even after that, it’s been difficult getting these the recognition they deserve. You could explore the park by yourself, but it’s difficult for the inexperienced to differentiate between a regular rock and a fossil (despite the fences around some of the fossils). The best guide to have is the custodian of the park, Aaliya Sultana Babi, princess from the royal family of Balasinor. Not only does she have in-depth knowledge of the ancient secrets buried here but she’ll also discuss dino extinction theories and the research that went into the fossil sites here. One highlight is the pit in which fossils from the Rajasaurus Narmadensis, a predatory species from the late Cretaceous period, were found. It’s not all prehistoric though, the attractions here – you can also experience living with royalty at the Garden Palace Heritage Homestay, home of Balasinor’s royal family (00-91-73591-46071; Garden Palace Rd, Balasinor). A trip to Balasinor is a journey into the past unlike any other. STAY: Garden Palace Heritage Homestay (www.palacebalasinor.com, bookingsbalasinor@gmail.com; from ` 4,480)
EXPLORE
ORE L A G ) BAN 270km
Shrouded in clouds, the Nilgiris present a magical scene
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Go local in Ooty, Tamil Nadu Words AISHWARYA MENON
@_aishwaryamenon
January 2020
In the winter months, as you approach the popular hill station Ooty, a thick blanket of mist shrouds the entire mountainside, making it seem as if you’re on an island in the middle of a sea of clouds. The scene might seem straight out of a dream, but, happily, this is just a taste of things to come. The Western Ghats presents some amazing vistas in the region. Stay at Sterling Ooty – Fern Hill, set in the Nilgiris, surrounded by terraced tea estates; it makes for the perfect base from which to explore the queen of hill stations. Known for rolling tea plantations and delectable chocolates, this honeymooner’s paradise was once the lofty domain of wild beasts and ancient tribes such as the Todas, Kotas and Badagas. Sterling Ooty – Fern Hill not only offers a premium stay option, but also a peek into the lives of these local tribes by incorporating their food, culture and traditions into every nook and corner of the resort. Whether you’re travelling with your friends or family, there’s always something to do here. The property boasts a garden with more than 40 kinds of herbs and over a hundred varieties of flowering plants. Even if you’re no botanist, a walk through the garden will pique your interest, and soothe your senses. It
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY READER ARJUN KRISHNA
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makes for the perfect place to acclimatise, especially for those who are taking a much-needed break from their hectic professional routines. Choose from experiences such as high rope adventures, land zorbing or video gaming within the property itself. And, if you would like to venture out, the ever-helpful staff has suggestions that range from visits to plantations and tribal villages to treks. You could even chance upon a live dance performance by the friendly Toda and Badaga tribes around a bonfire. If you’d like some more help with unwinding and rejuvenating, there’s also a splendid range of spa treatments available onsite to choose from. The clean, crisp mountain air is sure to whet the appetite – the all-day dining restaurant, The Fern, offers a variety of delectable dishes; do ask the chef for the Vettaikaran (hunter tribes) cuisine. Once you’ve spent enough time relaxing, head out to explore the town a bit. The famous Ooty Lake draws a lot of visitors, so make sure you’re there early enough, especially if you’d like to paddle around on the calm waters of the picturesque waterbody (9am – 6pm; boating: ` 10/ person). For an insight into one of the prominent indigenous communities of the region, head to the tribal village of the Todas. Their uniquely-shaped dwellings used
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1. Once in a while, the Toda community puts up a dance show for guests 2. If you’re shopping, do not skip on buying loads of handmade chocolates 3. For a relaxed and hassle free holiday, Sterling Ooty - Fern Hill is the perfect choice 4. The Toda hut installed inside the property is an exact replica of the authentic ones found in the Toda village
to be made out of stones, bamboo and dried grass but are today made with concrete. If Lady Luck smiles upon you, one of the Todas might even invite you in for a cup of tea. If the flame-of-the-forest on your way in made you happy, you’ll definitely want to visit the Government Botanical Garden, to witness the riot of colours here (7am – 7pm; free). And, if you’re feeling adventurous, try the two-hour trek up to the Doddabetta Peak, known to be the highest mountain in the Nilgiris, which promises sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. In the evening, when the town comes alive, head to the Charring Cross to shop for tea, essential oils (from ` 100), chocolates (from ` 60/ 100g) and even saris or sandalwood at the Mysore Silks and Handicrafts Emporium (#300, 1st Floor, Lower, Kodappmund, Kotagiri Rd). Make your next weekend trip to Ooty an unusual one. One with a unique glimpse at the local tribes and a better understanding of what it means to connect with nature. STAY: Sterling Ooty- Fern Hill (www.sterlingholidays.com/ resorts-hotels/ooty-fern-hill; from ` 3,000 / person).
PHOTOGRAPH: STERLING HOLIDAYS (1, 3, 4) & KRISHNA PRABAKAR (2)
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Hark back to colonial times in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh Words SAMARPAN BHOWMIK @sum.err.pun Photographs KRISHNA PRABAKAR T @krishnaprabakar
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The vivid shade of the Church of Epiphany makes for super popular Instagram shots
Reputed the world over for its mouthwatering Awadhi cuisine, the ancient city of Lucknow is also a treasure trove of architecture. As much as the nawabs held sway over the city, the British, who came later, had quite an influence on it too, and it’s evident in the many structures built by and for them that stand to this day. The revolt in 1857 by the Indian sepoys of the East India Company’s forces left its mark on the city. The damp and dark cellars of The Residency were used as a refuge by around 3,000 Britons in those war-torn times (Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Deep Manak Nagar, Qaisar Bagh; 7am – 6pm; Sat – Thur; entry: ` 15). Months were spent in despair there, as the attacks continued (holes left by cannonballs are visible) and almost 2,000 of them ended up dead. It’s not easy to picture these grim events today, in the serene green gardens amid the ruins. To get more insight into the siege of Lucknow, make a stop at the 1857 Memorial Museum (The Residency complex; 10am – 5pm; Tues – Sun; entry: ` 5). It’s not all grave here though; there’s Begum’s Kothi, the residence of Begum of Nasir-ud-Din Haidar, and a mosque and imambara (shrine) as well. The revolt had quite the effect on the city, and you’ll hear of the siege at other spots in the city too. There is La Martiniere
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College; students of this institution famously helped defend the Residency (00-91-94544-69226; www.lamartinierelucknow. org; La Martiniere Rd, Martin Purva). The institution’s campus is built around Constantia, a structure built as the residence of Major-General Claude Martin. There are several legends surrounding Martin, who is known to have been eccentric. Although he didn’t live to see the building finished, he had two conditions for it. First, he wanted his home to be converted into a school for young men, and, second, he wanted to be buried underneath it, which is where he lies to this day. Even the story about his death is a rather odd one. Rumour has it he fancied himself a surgeon, and decided to operate on himself to remove kidney stones. Of course, the attempt was a failure and resulted in his demise. The college campus itself resembles something out of a film set, with green lawns, a stable full of horses, and some monuments and crypts. One particular tomb and memorial, known as “Gori Bibi ka Maqbara”, was constructed in honour of Martin’s close friend Boulone Lise. Do bear in mind that you’ll need to get prior permission to visit the school. Tornos organises a specialised tour (00-91-99355-38105; www.tornosindia.com; Tornos House, C-2016, Indira Nagar; La Martinière Decoded
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1 & 3. If all schools looked like this and had such fine horses on the grounds, no student would ever be caught skipping class 2. The Residency suffered quite a bit of damage in 1857. Yet, it survives to this day
tour: ` 5,500/ person, with pick-up and drop, tea and refreshments at the school canteen and access to special areas). Head next to Christ Church, the third church built by the British in India, and one that functions as a college today (Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Hazratganj). This was yet another building that was attacked during the revolution, and there are memorials within to the fallen. We’d also recommend gems such as the All Saints Garrison church (210, Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Neil Lines, Cantonment), where the pews have space to hold guns and Church of the Epiphany (Capper Rd, near Novelty Cinema, Kaiserbagh Officers’ Colony, Lalbagh) with its striking red brick facade, but there are also other churches in the city worth a visit. Lucknow, with its colourful past, presents a wonderful blend of the nawabi and British cultures. It’s a true representation of the melting pot of cultures that is India. STAY: La Place Sarovar Portico (00-91-522-405-5000; www.sarovarhotels.com; from ` 5,550); Radisson Lucknow City Center (www.radissonhotels.com; from ` 4,250)
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EXPLORE QUIRKY COMPETITIONS
A year of unusual sports
Plot a journey of discoveries in sporting arenas across the world, including a season of our very own kabaddi March: Sheep shearing, New Zealand Ewe better believe the annual Golden Shears International Championships are a big deal in New Zealand. The four-day lanolin-scented jamboree, touted as ‘the Wimbledon of sheep shearing’, is held in the town of Masterton every March to crown the world’s fastest sheep shearer. Live bands bring a party vibe, and there’s much food and drink to be enjoyed. Can’t make it? Competitions are also held in Europe, Australia and the USA. www.goldenshears.co.nz May to October: Lawnmower racing, the UK In 1973, a group of wannabe racers from West Sussex dreamed of accessible motorsport. Over a few pints, they came up with lawnmower racing. Now the British Lawn Mower Racing Association (BLRA) holds a 30-race championship from May to October. Most races are part of larger rural events, such as the Cranleigh Show in Surrey, where spectators can experience other eccentric pursuits such as ferret racing. The BLRA remains uncommercial, donating all profits to charity. It also advises bringing packed lunches. www.blmra.co.uk July: Wife carrying, Finland Legend has this sport deriving from wife stealing. Now, consenting ladies cling to men as they navigate large wooden obstacles and cold-water pools. The quickest pair wins the wife’s weight in beer. Much lager is consumed on the sidelines, particularly in Sonkajärvi, which hosts the original Wife Carrying
Championships in July. Competitions also take place in Australia, Estonia, Hong Kong, the USA and the UK. And no, the couples don’t have to be married. www.trionium.com/wife July to October: Kabaddi, India Two teams of seven face off on a rectangular court, and one player from the offensive team, the raider, crosses the centre line and tries to tag as many opposition players as possible. If the raider makes it back to their own half, that team scores a point for every player tagged. If the other team can stop the raider making it back, the raider’s team scores nothing. An extra point is given if the raider steps over the bonus line – all on a single breath. It’s a national sport in Bangladesh, but India has the biggest league – Pro Kabaddi – where games are cheered by huge crowds. www.prokabaddi.com August: Call of Duty Championship, the USA Watching others play computer games was once what you did while waiting your turn, but now it’s a bona fide spectator sport with events all over the world and streaming to huge audiences. It’s particularly popular in the USA, where fans pay upwards of $50 to watch pro players battle it out at Call of Duty, which has its own World League Championship. The tournament’s winning team nets $2 million. Expect a largely male, millennial crowd clutching beers, watching the drama on huge screens. www.callofduty.com 1
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Golden Shears International Open Sheep Shearing, Masterton, New Zealand Facing page: 1. Red Bull Cut It lawnmower racing event 2. India vs Iran, Women’s Kabaddi finals, Asian Games, Jakarta 3. Call of Duty World League Championship , Columbus, Ohio
WORDS: GAVIN HAINES. PHOTOGRAPHS: CHAIDEER MAHYUDDIN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES, BEN BIRCHALL/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES, ERIC ANANMALAY/ ESPAT MEDIA/GETTY IMAGES, BARRY BLAND/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, TIMO HARTIKAINEN/AFP/GETTYIMAGES
4. Wife Carrying World Championship Sonkajärvi, Finland
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Join the carnival in Brazil When the world’s biggest carnival fills Rio’s streets, bars and the Sambódromo venue in February, it’s a celebration that’s central to Brazilian life. Book hotel rooms or apartments, and start practising your samba moves now WHAT IS IT? The original carnival
brought over by the Portuguese had its elaborate costumes, but it really gained its energy with the input of Afro-Brazilian music and dance. Rio’s samba schools, each with its own colour scheme and theme tunes, now compete to drum out the loudest beat, put together the flashiest floats, and fit the most sequins on the least amount of clothing. WHEN TO SEE IT The main action takes place over the five days before the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday. In 2020, the dates will be February 21 to 25. You’ll also find rehearsals and parties in the weeks before, and there’s a parade of champions on the Saturday after (cheaper to see than the headline show). WHERE TO SEE IT The showpiece of carnival is the Sambódromo: an avenue lined on both sides with permanent grandstands. This is where the 14 top samba schools strut their stuff, seven on the Sunday night, and seven the following evening. Carnival isn’t all
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about the Sambódromo; most cariocas (locals) and visitors will celebrate on the streets without the need for tickets. Bandas and blocos (street parties led respectively by brass bands and drummers) can be found all over the city. Famous ones include the massive, blackand-white-garbed Cordão da Bola Preta and the carnivalending Monobloco. HOW TO SEE IT The Sambódromo website (www.liesa.globo.com) is in Portuguese only, and many other online ticket-sellers can be unreliable. Booking through registered tour operators such as Tucan Travel (www.tucantravel.com/ rio-carnival) is a safer bet. Official prices start at around ` 3,700, though it’s common to pay several times that. See the Lonely Planet Rio de Janeiro guide for more. GETTING THERE While there are no direct flights to Rio from India, several carriers such as Air India, Lufthansa and Emirates have connecting flights from all major airports.
RIO CARNIVAL FACTS
20,00,000 Estimated number of revellers on each day of Rio’s carnival
500+
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90,000
Seating capacity of the Sambódromo
75
Number of minutes (give or take) that each samba school gets to parade in the Sambódromo
Usual time signature for samba, for example heard in a batucada drum rhythm
1917
Year that Pelo Telefone, thought to be the first recorded samba track, was released MORE ON BRAZIL IN OUR FEATURES SECTION January 2020
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PHOTOGRAPH: GIORDANO CIPRIANI/GETTY IMAGES
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THE ULTIMATE COLLECTION
Urban walks BERLIN, GERMANY
SAN FRANCISCO, THE USA Mapped out and made good by trail-loving volunteers and non-profit groups, the 17-mile Crosstown Trail (pictured right) was inaugurated in June 2019. It connects pathways and green spaces both celebrated and undersung, wending from Candlestick Point in San Francisco’s southeast to Land’s End up in the northwest, via Visitación Valley Greenway, McLaren Park, Glen Canyon and Golden Gate Park. There are bike-friendly variants, too. Signposting is sporadic: don’t forget to take downloadable trail maps. www.crosstowntrail.org
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T he Ber lin Wa l l T r a i l, 10 0 m i le s of c y c l a ble h i s t or y
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA Australia’s biggest city has one of the world’s most spectacular urban coastlines, and you can walk the entire thing – some 60 miles – if you have a week to spare. The trail (pictured left) begins at Barrenjoey, at the tip of Sydney’s northern beaches, and plots a sandy course to Manly before heading inland to the Harbour Bridge and the southern shores of Sydney Harbour. www.sydney.com
LONDON, ENGLAND The Capital Ring Walk (pictured left) circles London and is divided into 15 chunks, allowing you to cover the 78 miles over multiple outings. The route shows the city in all its glorious (and gritty) diversity, from the art-splashed streets of Hackney Wick to the wide open spaces of Richmond Park, and heritage properties such as Eltham Palace. www.tfl.gov.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARIO TARANTINO/LONELY PLANET, AMY KAESER, JOHN WARBURTON-LEE PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY, DAN KITWOOD/GETTY IMAGES
Best known to cyclists, the Berlin Wall Trail (pictured right) follows the course of the wall that divided West Berlin from East Germany from 1961 until it was famously breached in 1989. It was transformed into a walking and cycling path, and opened in 2006. The trail is signposted and has information boards detailing the 28-year lifespan of the wall, and memorials to those who tried to escape. www.berlin.de
EXPLORE 5 FREEBIES
Chennai, India Have a good trip in Tamil Nadu's capital with these free experiences
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ENJOY SOME PEACE AND QUIET If, instead, you want a bit of a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, head on down to the Theosophical Society. Spread across 260 acres, the enormous property is home to the Huddleston Gardens, which, in turn, is home to animals such as jackal, wild cat, mongoose, hare and a wide variety of migratory birds. Enjoy a tranquil walk here, catch up on some reading in the library, and
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TAKE IN THE PERFECT SUNSET Built in 1967 to ease local fishermen’s passage from Adyar to Srinivasapuram across the mouth of the Adyar River, the Broken Bridge collapsed 10 years after its construction. Although not repaired since then, it’s a major attraction for both visitors to the city and locals owing to the lovely panoramic views it offers. Relish the perfect sunset at the Broken Bridge in complete solitude (Theosophical Society, Adyar).
LOSE YOURSELF AMID SEVEN FLOORS OF LITERATURE The Anna Centenary Library, built at a cost of `172 crores and named after the former chief minister of Tamil Nadu CN Annadurai, is a state-of-the-art facility – the perfect sanctuary for bibliophiles with a total of 1.2 million books spread across seven floors. You'll find a massive collection of regional reads and high-end university books, too (www.annacentenarylibrary. org; Gandhi Mandapam Rd, Surya Nagar, Kotturpuram).
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INDULGE IN SOME ART The Focus Art Gallery is one of the finest forums for art in the city. Showings include works by both contemporary artists and established names from across the country and world. The art isn’t just limited to one medium and the gallery is inclusive with exhibits by the differently-abled. With intriguing and captivating paintings from a variety of artists, lovers of art could easily spend hours here (www.focusartgallery.co.in; 19, Rukmani Lakshmipathi Rd, Balaji Nagar, Egmore). January 2020
WORDS: SAMARPAN BHOWMIK PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T (MARINA BEACH), BELYAEV VIACHESLAV/123RF.COM (THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY), WWW.ANNACENTENARYLIBRARY.ORG (ANNA LIBRARY)
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STROLL BY THE SEA Of course, the most obvious choice for those looking to get the most out of Chennai without spending a rupee is Marina Beach. At 6km, it is the longest beach in the country and attracts thousands of visitors. With so many people milling about and as many vendors hawking their wares, from snacks to curios, the beach is most suited to those who are looking to be amid the hustle-bustle of a big city. It definitely showcases the flashier side of Chennai and will get you the trademark shots for your Instagram feed.
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Pack your bags It’s worth staying out all night (and a few days) at these new properties
HOTEL CHADSTONE MELBOURNE Melbourne, Australia Said to be the only five-star hotel outside Melbourne’s centre, the 12-storey hotel by Sofitel hosts 250 rooms and suites, two penthouses, rooftop bar and dining options, a wellness retreat and day spa complete with LED lounge and yoga studio, all connected to the world-class shopping, dining, lifestyle and entertainment destination of Chadstone – The Fashion Capital, just 17km from Melbourne’s CBD. The sumptuous rooms come with custom lighting, individually-crafted bespoke seating, and a wash of teal or a splash of blush. On the rooftop, Altus has an outdoor conservatory bar with an open skylight and terrazzo bar taking in views of Port Phillip Bay. Renowned chef and restaurateur Scott Pickett’s latest restaurant, Pastore, an Italian-inspired all-day dining venue offering woodfire-fuelled cooking and handmade pasta, is also on the menu. www.hotelchadstone.com.au; from ` 20,000
Gaafu Alifu Atoll, the Maldives Promoted as an idyllic beach retreat with a wonderful overwater world, Raffles’s first resort in the Maldives is set on a private island and offers just 21 villas and residences, beachside dining options like The Firepit barbecue restaurant and the Long Bar where guests can try the signature Maldives Sling, a spa, and a dive centre complete with a marine biologist. Just a minute away by boat, the Overland Island Experience completes the resort – on its menu are the Nikkei restaurant Yuzu and the Yapa pool bar, which is an excellent made-for-the-sunset venue. A marine butler is available to each guest, who will lead snorkelling tours of the resort’s two remarkable and endlessly fascinating house reefs. Keep an eye out for Apollo, one of the 20 resident hawksbill and green turtles that regularly swim by to say hello. www.raffles.com/maldives; from ` 1,27,000/ night with breakfast and speedboat transfers from Kaadedhdhoo Airport
SRINIVAS FROM NIRAAMAYA RETREATS Jaipur, Rajasthan Srinivas, the private residence of Maharaja Karanvijay Singh Ji in Jaipur, now operates under the Niraamaya brand. It reflects the Maharaja’s outdoor lifestyle, fondness of Africa, and passion for polo. A blend of heritage architecture, royal traditions and timeless serenity, the interiors showcase antique furniture, old family photographs, and Persian carpets while the seven spacious bedrooms are flooded with natural light. Also expect a spa, a pool, polo ponies in backyard stables, yoga sessions, horse-riding, city walks, palace trails and hot-air balloon rides. www.niraamaya.in/srinivas-by-niraamaya-privateresidences-jaipur; from ` 2,000
DISCLAIMER: ALL CONTENT ON THESE PAGES FOR INFORMATION ONLY; LPMI CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY MISHAP ARISING THEREOF
RAFFLES MALDIVES MERADHOO AND OVERLAND ISLAND EXPERIENCE
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India has always enjoyed great relations with the mountain country of Bhutan and, consequently, visitors from our country have never had to pay the US$ 250 daily tourism fee. Now, however, the government of Bhutan is considering levying a tax on travellers from India, the Maldives and Bangladesh, owing to the high influx of visitors from these countries. Under the new policy, Indians would be required to pay a sustainable development fee and a permit processing fee, although the total amount to be levied per day has not been fixed as we go to press. Remember, the cost is all part of the sustainability effort, which not only makes it feasible for locals but also for visitors to enjoy this beautiful country.
TO FIND SUSTAINABLE FOOD ANYWHERE
TO FLY TO NEW DESTINATIONS A brand-new partnership is reason for travellers to rejoice. Lufthansa and Vistara have joined hands to offer customers codeshare flights. Which means a total of 126 new weekly flights will be added to 10 Indian destinations. On top of this, frequent fliers will also be able to avail miles on both the airlines. So, start planning your next getaway now (www.airvistara.com/ trip/interline-partners/ deutsche-lufthansa).
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Many people across the world are moving to a vegetarian or vegan diet, and, increasingly, places across the world are becoming more accommodating towards these food habits. For discerning eaters, it is especially crucial to find suitable fare when travelling to various destinations. Now, Lonely Planet's latest offering, The Vegan Travel Handbook, can help you find vegan food options wherever in the world you might be visiting. Apart from vegan restaurants and hotels, the book also lists vegan cooking classes, food tours and festivals across the globe. Priced at ` 1,351, the book is available in India at most stores and online shops.
TO HAVE A SPECIAL CONNECT WITH VIETNAM Travellers rejoice! Vietjet introduces two new routes from the national capital to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. While visitors can avail of four direct flights to Ho Chi Minh City every week on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, those travelling to Hanoi can take one of three direct flights from Delhi every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Return flights are available on the same days for both destinations (www.vietjetair.com).
e r o M s n o s a e r t e g to re e h t out TO TRAVEL MORE EASILY TO BULGARIA
VFS Global has launched Bulgaria visa application centres in Mumbai and Delhi. Over the coming months, centres will be launched in 14 more Indian cities including Bangalore, Chandigarh, Ahmedabad, Chennai, Hyderabad, Jaipur and Kolkata. The visa application process will be similar to existing models, whereby applicants would be kept updated about their application status over SMS, have the option of getting their passports delivered to their doorstep, and would also be able to opt for premium services that offer end-to-end personalised services (www.vfsglobal.com/Bulgaria).
INPUTS FROM: AMIT GAIKWAD & SAMARPAN BHOWMIK PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T (BHUTAN); ZHASMINA IVANOVA/ 123RF.COM (BULGARIA); BOULE13/ 123RF.COM (ABU DHABI); PATRICK TAPPE/ 123RF.COM (CONEY ISLAND); BUZZFUSS/ 123RF.COM (BILLIE EILISH); ZIXIA/ 123RF.COM (ELTON JOHN) PHOTOGRAPHS USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY. CONTENT ON THESE PAGES IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY. LONELY PLANET MAGAZINE INDIA DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY MISHAPS ARISING FROM THE SAME.
TO EXPLORE THE LAND OF HAPPINESS, RESPONSIBLY
TO PLAN A TRIP TO THE
BIG APPLE If you need more reasons to head to New York, the USA, here’s a list of some amazing events in the city. Plan a trip around any of these exciting experiences and you’ll see much more than the usual. • Broadway shows featuring stars such as Erika Jayne of the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills (Chicago; Jan 6 – March 29) and musicals based on famous figures (Diana; premieres in March). Also catch Hugh Jackman and Broadway veteran Sutton Foster in The Music Man from September 9.
TO DELVE INTO RICH LITERARY CULTURE IN KERALA This month, add a unique dose of culture to your travel itinerary. From January 16 to 19, Calicut will play host to the fifth edition of the Kerala Literature Festival 2020 (KLF 2020). The festival will see participation from artists, writers and journalists from countries such as Spain, Britain, Slovenia, Egypt, Ireland, China, and South Africa. Among the personalities attending, you might know Rajdep Sardesai, Karan Thapar, Shashi Tharoor, William Darlymple, and Anita Nair. Aside from debates and discussions, expect events ranging from Carnatic concerts to progressive rock acts, dance shows for forms such as Kijote, Kathakali, Larissa and Flamenco, and puppet shows and theatre. And all this on the tranquil shores of the Arabian Sea; it promises to be a wonderful cultural experience (www.keralaliteraturefestival.com).
• Elton John’s final tour will see him perform at Barclays Centre and Madison Square Garden in spring (April 6 – 18); Hall and Oates, along with Squeeze, at Madison Square Garden (Feb 28), reunited Motion City Soundtrack at Webster Hall (Jan 8); Pomplamoose at Bowery Ballroom (Jan 17); Snoop Dogg at the Gramercy Theatre (Jan 22); Spin Doctors at Brooklyn Bowl (Jan 30); Chance the Rapper at MSG (Feb 8); Eagles at MSG (Feb 14, 15 and 18); Lauryn Hill at the United Palace Theatre (Feb 22); Wire at Music Hall of Williamsburg (Mar 11–12); Billie Eilish at MSG (Mar 15); Harry Styles at MSG (Jul 6–8); and Green Day with Fall Out Boy and Weezer at Citi Field (Aug 22). There will also be residencies from They Might Be Giants (playing Flood on select dates several months in a row at Bowery Ballroom) and Billy Joel (continuing to play Madison Square Garden once a month indefinitely). That’s a lot of music to catch up on. • Japanese contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama’s show Kusama: Cosmic Nature will be hosted across the 250 acres of the New York Botanical Garden. The show will open on May 9 and run through to November 1. Expect polka-dot sculptures, neon colours and mirrored installations among bright spring blooms. • The famed Coney Island will get two new rides – a log flume and a roller coaster, along with a waterfront ropes course and an interactive water ride. It opens in April, so you can give the kids an amazing surprise for their summer vacation.
TO DANCE THE WEEKEND AWAY IN ABU DHABI, THE UAE
Founded in 1999 in Miami, the USA, the Ultra Music Festival, one of the foremost celebrations of electronic music the world over, has been hosted in countries such as South Africa, Japan, Brazil, Croatia, Singapore and Australia. It’s now coming to the Middle East for the first time – the Du Arena at Yas Marina in Abu Dhabi will host this musical extravaganza on March 5 and 6, 2020. And that’s not all: Abu Dhabi will also host Club Social, a beach and music festival (March 12 – 14, 2020) and the DJ Mag Conference, a music industry event, during the same time (www.visitabudhabi.ae/admusicweek).
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EXPLORE: REASONS TO TR AVEL
Statue of Unity Inaugurated in October last year, the Statue of Unity (SoU) continues to be one of the most popular visitor attractions in the country. Built on the isle of Sadhu-Bet in the River Narmada, the tallest statue in the world has the majestic Vindhyachal and Satpura mountain ranges as its backdrop. With an average footfall of 15,000 people each day, the SoU now has something new to offer its visitors (www.statueofunity.in). We pick the five best attractions that should be on your priority list.
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AROGYA VAN Home to a wide range of medicinal plants, Arogya Van is spread across a human-shaped landscape – the Arogya Manush. The various health benefits of each plant on the human body are detailed. Take a guided tour of the 15 acres of land with any of the wellinformed staff to understand the magical wonders of ayurveda.
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CHILDREN’S NUTRITION PARK: Located near Swagat Sthal (the Tourist Information Centre), the Childrens’ Nutrition Park is designed to create awareness about the various aspects of nutrition among children. Take a ride in a mini train and learn the importance of food and a healthy diet through audio-visual sessions and interactive games installed at five different stations. Kids will particularly love this park.
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VALLEY OF FLOWERS: Built on a former dumping site, the Valley of Flowers is spread across 600 acres of land, and encompasses five uniquely themed park-gardens – the Garden of Senses and Panchatatva Garden, the Green Energy and Upcycling Park, the Sardar Park, the Butterfly Garden, and the Adventure Park. With over 24,00,000 varieties of plants, the Valley of Flowers also has photo booths and selfie points as added attractions.
VISHWA VAN Spread across two hectares of land, Vishwa Van (Global Forest) was conceptualised with the intention of planting and maintaining seedlings from the different continents of the world. Here, one can experience a wide range of herbs, shrubs and trees all arranged in a beautiful way to resemble a forest of that zone.
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EKTA NURSERY Developed with the objective of encouraging the planting of more trees, Ekta Nursery is where you can find a seedling – the Plant of Unity – to take home. Join a guided tour of the nursery and discover various species of indoor and outdoor plants. Learn about the production of eco-friendly products such as organic pots and plates carved out of areca leaves, and enjoy the opportunity to sample and buy a wide range of tribal teas.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SoU
5 More Reasons to visit the
TREAT yourselftoadifferent
ITALY Explore Bella Italia with travel and lifestyle influencer Shifa Merchant WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS
@SASSYSHIFSAYS
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
Of all the trips that I have taken to Italy, this one tops the charts. It winningly combines air travel with road trips from the southern to the northern end of this picturesque country. Apart from being one of the most popular destinations for travellers from across the globe, Italy offers you delicious cuisine that changes with every city, boasts rich cultural heritage, and is blessed with world-renowned architecture and art. Also, not to be missed are the impressive crumbling ruins that still stand tall in their own majestic way, places that re-unite the old with the new, cave hotels, Europe’s most active volcanic mountains and the scenic coastlines. This, indeed, is a different Italy altogether, and one that I love and would love to return to.
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closer to the island’s spirit. The next morning, I hike up world-famous Mt Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe and one of the most frequently erupting ones. Mt Etna also holds the record for longest continuous lava eruptions. I start hiking from the northern end of the mountain and, after 30 minutes, find myself at the top, from where I can see the craters and the magical transformation of the rocks and soil around, where lava eruptions have occurred in the past. As you go higher, you’ll see the rocks turning charcoal black; they also acquire a more crumbly, sandy texture from the original hard rocks that they once were. Trust your guides to take you through the best-charted routes for you, since they know how to best avoid the active volcanic regions. The locals fondly call Mt Etna “Mongibello” – beautiful mountain. They also grow olives, grapes and many other fruits in this soil enriched by the fallen ash. During
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
I land at Catania Airport and head straight towards Taormina, a dreamy and scenic hilltop town situated on the east coast of Sicily. The stunning natural beauty, inviting Ionian seascapes and medieval streets seem to be straight out of a Hollywood film set. I’m staying at the famous Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, which sits right in the heart of Taormina; the city’s main square is just outside the property gates. The first-ever hotel to be built here, it offers views of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea on one side and the iconic Greek Theatre on the other. So no surprise that this property is a hot favourite among many Hollywood/ Bollywood celebrities. The most prominent artists and writers of the 20th century sought the Literary Terrace of Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo on their creative Italian escapes. Every time I pull my curtains open, the rolling hill views with Mt Etna as a backdrop take me one step
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Locals fondly call Mt Etna “Mongibello” – beautiful mountain
winter, Mt Etna transforms into a wonderland, becoming a favoured destination for different winter sports. Another notable landmark in Taormina is the Greek Theatre, right next to my hotel. The construction of the amphitheatre started around third century BC, at the time of Hiero II, and the Romans were responsible for installing statues and columns and for renovating the place. These days, it is a performance venue, and I can’t even begin to imagine the thrill of catching a live performance from your favourite artiste in this arena in which gladiator games were held back in the Roman era. I love the strategic viewpoints that allow visitors to enjoy uninterrupted views of the blue waters of the Ionian coast and the Calabrian coast. Note to self: come back here one day for a concert! Another not-to-be-missed experience is a winery tour at Pietradolce (about a five-minute drive from Mt Etna), in Solicchiata, which is within the district of the northern slopes of Etna. Established in 2005, it is perfect to enjoy local wines and traditional cuisine. After the tour, we are treated to a local Sicilian luncheon, showcasing fresh veggies like eggplant and red bell peppers. What’s really unique about Pietradolce wines is the added “mineral elements” that lend a unique taste. The wines have special characteristics due to the light, stony and sandy composition of the volcanic soils. Here, concrete wine tanks are used because they combine the benefits of stainless steel and oak containers without the drawbacks.
Shopping for souvenirs such as hand-painted antiques and Sicilian ceramics is a must in Taormina; these are known to be among the best in Italy. You will easily find exceptional artisanal pieces at affordable prices in local shops. Make sure to also get your hands on the local spices and Sicilian sea salt, pistacchio di bronte (Sicilian green pistachios), cheese, Sicilian wines, Sicilian honey, extra virgin olive oil and organic jams, all readily available in local markets.
GOOD TO KNOW BELMOND GRAND HOTEL TIMEO, TAORMINA: 00-39-0942-627-0200; www.belmond.com/hotels/ europe/italy/taormina/belmond-grand-hotel-timeo Via Teatro Greco 59; from ` 28,700 MOUNT ETNA TOURS: www.mountetna.net, www.mountetnatours.com; Piazza Andromaco; tours from ` 6,200/ person GREEK THEATRE: www.traveltaormina.com/en/ monuments/greek-theatre-taormina.html; Via Teatro Greco, 40; entry from ` 800, audio guide: ` 400 PIETRADOLCE WINERY: 00-39-344-0640-839; www.pietradolce.it/eng/home.html; Pietradolce, Contrada Rampante, Solicchiata
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The Italian government has done a tremendous job transforming Matera into a preserved historical hub
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
After three blissful days in Taormina, we’re on our way to Matera. We’re doing this by road, and the quickest way to cross over to Calabria is in a ferry. I’m blown away by the grandeur of the ferry; it’s almost a cruise liner. From Calabria, it takes us three hours to reach Matera. The official European Capital of Culture for 2019, Matera City is situated in southern Italy in the Basilicata region. UNESCO recognised the Citaà dei Sassi, which translates to the “city of stones”, as a World Heritage site in 1993. Some also refer to this city as la città sotterranea (“the underground city”). We step into comfortable walking shoes and allow this city – made for wanderers and explorers – to reveal itself.
Every step of the way, Matera comes across as an architectural marvel of the Palaeolithic era. Sassi Di Matera is an ancient town with prehistoric settlements. These calcareous rock formations are now hotels, with rooms in these very caves that maintain and work with the authentic structure of the rocks. The Italian government has done a tremendous job of transforming this region into a preserved historical hub of Italy. I am thrilled to be staying at the Matera Sassi UNESCO site Corte San Pietro, a hotel housed in a renovated historic building carved out of stone. Equipped with every modern facility, Corte San Pietro is welcoming. My ‘room’ comprises two floors, with the living room on the ground floor and the bedroom on the first. It is such an experience lying in the cave room and thinking about all the history it has witnessed. Every room is designed differently and has an elegant, old-world charm. I’m stunned by the underground system of cisterns that were interconnected during World War II. The shopping scene in Matera is at another level. You’ll find leading international brands here, alongside artisanal local products such as the famous “cuckoo” whistles, locally-brewed beers and hand-painted ceramics. The Piazza Vittorio Veneto is the place to find some of the best brand stores, local shops, eateries, cafes, museums and stone churches. One of the main squares of Matera, it is also where all the locals seem to hang out. Check out the amazing views of Matera while you go shopping around this piazza. And by night, you will see a different side to it: mysterious and magical. Cava Del Sole is literally the belly from which Matera was born, since stones from this very area were used to build the city during the 1600s, transforming natural resources into design elements. Matera locals consider it to be one of the most unique outdoor cathedrals in the
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE world. Cava Del Sole has seen many Italian geniuses create an artistic landscape that, in turn, has created history. The same quarry has proven itself to be an extraordinary location for global events and artistic performances. It’s divided into three parts – the hall, the arena and the village. The hall is an air-conditioned space of around 1,200sqm that is being set up for a musical performance even as I wander around. The arena is an open-air space of up to 5,000sqm, ideal for concerts, live performances, TV shows and conventions, while the village hosts a permanent exhibition, “From the quarry to the stones” . On offer are guided tours and handmade artisanal gifts. I love the different local exhibits here. I’m also fascinated with the impressive I-DEA Project, known as the archive of archives, a Matera European Capital of Culture 2019 initiative. The I-DEA Project breaks down the stratified complexities of a particular region’s culture, history and collections through various experiments. It has curated five consecutive exhibitions with five artists and designers, each reflecting different readings and perspectives by delving into the archives and collections in the region. The I-DEA Project is also available to hold workshops, exhibitions, performances and more. II Paese di Cuccagna is an exhibition curated by Navine G Khan-Dossos and James Bridle. I marvel at how seamlessly they have combined stories from all over Basilicata with culture, technology, human and nonhuman elements in an artwork of re-imagination of better futures. It is such an insightful exhibition, and so well presented that my mind can effortlessly absorb every detail – green screens of movie sets with a twist of presenting different realities, harvest songs playing in the background, old-school musical instruments made using animal skin and trees, and all the different artefacts. After all this learning, we enjoy a traditional dinner at the Masseria Fortificata San Francesco in Matera. It is here that I learn the proper way to tear open traditional Matera bread. The locals point out that its rough, conical shape resembles the nearby mountains of Murgia. This property, set against the Matera skyline, is a surreal destination wedding location. The infinity pool is transformed into a see-through glass walkway on which the bride walks into her dreamy wedding set-up. Apart from the cave rooms, this hotel also has an underground wine cellar and a den ideal for a gathering to celebrate your special occasion. I admire the dinner set-up, which adds an elegant modern touch to the cave spaces.
GOOD TO KNOW CORTE SAN PIETRO HOTEL: 00-39-0835-310-813; www.cortesanpietro.it; Via B Buozzi 97 B; from ` 16,500 CAVA DEL SOLE: www.cavadelsole.it; Ss7 via Appia 32 I-DEA PROJECT: www.ideamatera.eu; hangar at Cava Parasido, Contrada La Palomba ss7; see website for timings MASSERIA FORTIFICATA SAN FRANCESCO: 00-390835-312-538; www.masseriasanfrancesco.com; Contrada San Francesco; from ` 8,800
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GOOD TO KNOW BELMOND VILLA SAN MICHELE HOTEL: 00-39-055-5678200; www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/florence/ belmond-villa-san-michele; Via Doccia 4, Fiesole; from ` 45,000
Visitors love Verona in Northern Italy, and it’s easy to see why. This city of love, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its medieval architecture and urban structure, has my heart in more ways than one. It comes as no surprise that Shakespeare would choose this city as the setting for not one but two of his plays – Romeo & Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. I literally have goose bumps when I walk up to Juliet’s house and see the famous balcony that has gone down in history as one of the most romantic meeting points for lovers. This is, indeed, a place of pilgrimage across all age groups; a golden chance to re-enact the iconic balcony scene at the exact spot where it all began. You’ll see so many lovers and romantics at heart from all over the world leaving their messages, letters or engraved locks on the walls right opposite her balcony and on her gate. Or you could touch the brass breast of the Juliet statue and wish for anything you want; you’ll just be following an age-old tradition. Verona is a place of love, the site of a tragic love story, a poet’s dream and a medieval architectural marvel; it fills my heart with hope, and makes me want to stay forever. One of the highlights of Verona, the Arena di Verona is another UNESCO-listed, preserved, ancient Roman
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PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
We arrive in Florence for a quick stopover and check into the Belmond Villa San Michele, tucked away in the Fiesole hills. It’s such a romantic property, this hotel that used to be a medieval monastery. Its ambience is imbued with 14th-century charm; its terraced gardens, rich history, contemporary artworks and a beautiful facade attributed to Michelangelo, bring out its pioneering spirit. Fun fact: the Belmond Villa San Michele shares a unique connection with Leonardo da Vinci; he once tested his flying machine at Montececeri Park, just above the hotel. It crashed, but that just made the spot an iconic trekking path during the late 15th century. You can trek to this very spot from the hotel. Among all da Vinci’s many accomplishments, little is known about his special connections with food and cooking. Who knew that he once worked in Milan for the ruling Sforza family as a Maestro dei Convivii, which required him to handpick the food for the family? His food choices were heavy on fish, vegetables, spices, salads and healthy bites. As a tribute, the hotel has a special shared table for guests at which they can experience a Leonardo-influenced menu. I love the Renaissance beauty of this hotel and how beautifully history is retained and showcased. The decommissioned chapel, for example, can be used to host cocktail parties, weddings or just be your tranquil oasis on days you need some alone-time. My garden suite room has its own classic charm, with views over gorgeous Italian gardens. This has to be the best type of luxury in Tuscany.
amphitheatre that was built around 1 AD. Seating over 22,000 spectators, it is well known even today for its larger-than-life opera performances and other international performances. Visiting will give you a sneak peek into the venue for the closing ceremony for the 2026 Winter Olympics. Museo Nicolis sits proudly as a prized gem on Verona’s precious crown. This museum combines culture, entertainment, and world-class experiences, taking you through the best and most-talked-about designs and technological advancements of the 20th century. It comes as no surprise that it has also bagged the most coveted Museum Of The Year 2018 distinction at the Motoring Awards. This is every car lover or biker’s paradise as brands like Ferrari, Lancia, Bugatti, Alfa Romeo, Maseratti, Rolls Royce, Darracq and many more are on display, some of them from the time when motoring began. Muse Nicolis is born from the enormous passion of entrepreneur and collector Luciano Nicolis, who set out to showcase his most cherished collections. Some of the greatest human inventions are here on display – over 200 classic vintage cars, 110 bicycles, 100 motorcycles, 500 cameras and movie cameras, 100 typewriters, 100 musical instruments, aeroplanes along with a rare collection of driving accessories (over a hundred steering wheels from different one-seater Formula-1 racing cars). I meet with his daughter Silvia Nicolis, who is the president at Museo Nicolis and the second generation to manage this unconventional automotive museum. Her eyes light up as she speaks of her father’s great vision to bring together so many masterpieces under one roof. She also tells me of Verona as a historic city that still works as a modern communication hub, making it a hot favourite not just with visitors, but also with business travellers and couples
looking for a unique destination wedding. I make a quick pit stop for lunch in a quaint village called Valleggio. I’m looking forward to the food at Alla Borsa restaurant, which is a family-run business known for creating food experiences. Here, diners get to experience some of the best local dishes personally prepared by Mrs Albina, and served with so much love. The owners Alceste and Albina and their daughter Nadia speak passionately about their region and the fresh produce that they showcase in their cooking, like the pumpkins we will be eating. The village centre in which the restaurant is located was initially a common ground for merchants to meet at. Due to this, it was also called “ borsa” (stock market), which gives the old taverna its name. The markets and shopping areas in Verona offer an effortless glimpse into the life of an Italian. Piazza delle Erbe hosts one of the city’s main and biggest markets, at which you can experience local cuisine and fast food, buy souvenirs at artisanal and antique boutiques, or shop till you drop at the many leading international clothing stores and multiple brand outlets. Verona is also home to Gioielleria Porta Borsari, a jewellery shop that is believed to be the smallest in all of Europe. Travelling to Verona is convenient, thanks to its great connectivity from Italian cities such as Milan, Venice and Rome.
GOOD TO KNOW JULIET HOUSE: 00-39-45-803-4303; www.casadigiulietta. comune.verona.it; Casa di Giulietta via Cappello 23; see website for timings and ticket prices THE VERONA ARENA: www.arena.it/arena/en; ticket office: Via dietro Anfiteatro 6/b MUSEO NICOLIS: 00-39-045-630-3289; www.museonicolis.com; Viale Postumia Villafranca di Verona (VR); 10am – 6pm Tues – Sun; see website for ticket prices RESTAURANT ALLA BORSA: 00-39- 045-795-0093; www.ristoranteborsa.it; Via Goito 2, 37067 Valeggio sul Mincio (VR); see website for timings
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My last stop in northern Italy is my favourite city, Milan, and wrapping up my Italian getaway with a stay at the Armani Hotel Milano is the perfect cherry on top of the cake. The hotel’s grand architecture, understated elegance and spacious rooms with luxurious Armani hospitality guarantee that I will remember this stay for a long time to come. The walk-in closet, spacious bathroom and supersized bed, all added to the wow factor. And, of course, the international menus for lunch and dinner, are predictably brilliant. Since Armani Hotel Milano is located right in the heart of Milan at Brera, the historic centre, travelling to almost any major location is super convenient. This is also the city’s prestigious and most famous fashion district. The famous Milan Cathedral, all the major shopping hubs, the Armani megastore, and Via della Spiga are all within walking distance, and the tram stop in front lets you easily access the rest of the city. Do keep in mind that shopping in Milan can get pretty overwhelming, so hire a guide who can take you to the best shopping spots. Be it the high-end luxury boutiques or the cosy family-owned businesses, Milan’s shopping caters to so many budgets and tailor-made interests. Shopping options include the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Quadrilatero d’Oro, or the Brera district. Shopping for clothes is a must in Italy’s fashion capital, but I also hit the grocery store for some local delicacies and fresh produce that I’m head over heels in love with. Of course, Milan Cathedral is also a must-do. The Duomo di Milano took nearly six centuries to complete, and remains one of the most iconic places to visit in Italy, being the largest church in the country, the third largest in Europe, and fifth largest in the world. Each time I visit, I can spend hours here, marvelling at the architecture. Fun fact: A statue of Napoleon is placed atop one of the spires; he was crowned King of Italy at the Duomo. These are my tips to help you make the most of your time in Milan Cathedral: Book your tickets online in advance; the special fast-track tickets are for three days and make sense if you want to visit more than once. There is a lot to see: the cathedral itself, the rooftops of the cathedral, the archaeological area, the Duomo Museum, and, most importantly, the Crypt of Saint Charles. Apart from the main archaeological area and the Crypt of St Charles, every different site has its own entrance. If you want to worship at the cathedral, entry is free, but you cannot take photos. As I bid goodbye to Bella Italia, I know I will be back. After all, in Italy, an adventure awaits me – and you – at every corner. SHIFA MERCHANT’S
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
trip was supported by the Italian National Tourist Board (ENIT).
GOOD TO KNOW
• ARMANI HOTEL MILANO: 00-39-02-8883-8381; www.armanihotelmilano.com; Via Alessandro Manzoni, 31; from ` 40,000. • MILAN CATHEDRAL: 00-39-02-7202-3375; www.duomomilano.it/en; see website for timings and ticket prices
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00-91-22-6728-9495; mumbai@enit.it; 20 Floor, Tower A, Urmi Estate, 95, Ganpathrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel (w), Mumbai
Armed with a Gross National Happiness Index, Bhutan is Asia’s happiest country. If you’re curious to find out if this holds true, check out The Photo Story, which chronicles the many faces of the Land of the Thunder Dragon
J O U R N A L
PHOTOGRAPH: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T
TALES FROM THE ROAD
JOURNAL
Shiny, THE PHOTO STORY
HAPPYFaces
Asia’s happiest country has a lot of stories to tell. And we mean that literally. Photographs: Krishna Prabakar T
Words: Aurelia Fernandes
@krishnaprabakar
@oreallyeah
“IS BHUTAN REALLY A HAPPY COUNTRY?” Krishna asked, breaking the brief moment of silence in the car as we drove from Phuentsholing to Thimphu. “Are people really happy, or is that just something everyone says?” he pressed on, looking expectantly at Bheem, our driver and guide of sorts, who kept his eyes glued to the road, but had a wide grin on his face.
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#1
TRY IN COUN LANET'S LY P LONE IN
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2020
JOURNAL: THE PHOTO STORY
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A mere spectator to their budding friendship, I continued to stare out of the window while eavesdropping. “Sir, it’s simple,” Bheem said. “What are the main things people worry about in life? Jobs, education, health – things that cost money. The government here helps you with everything. Medical bills are taken care of, education is also free. If you want to study further or go abroad for further education, it helps you with that too. I don’t know about happiness and all, but there is definitely less reason to worry.” Krishna seemed content with this answer (for then) and, the more I thought about it, the more it seemed to make sense. “Sir, tension lene ka nahi, dene ka!” Bheem quipped out of nowhere, cackling at his own joke and what proved to be his go-to catch phrase throughout the trip. Although we couldn’t guarantee the happiness quotient, we soon learned that the Bhutanese were definitely a lively and chatty lot. From orchard owners who urged us to take apples, provided we scaled a high fence, to locals leading us down a straight path that Krishna managed to get lost on, and store owners who trusted us to babysit during rush-hour (my official introduction to Baby shark...doo doo doo), our 10-day trip was a rather eventful one, and I’d like to think a lot of the credit goes to Bhutan’s shiny, happy people.
DISCLAIMER: ALL CONTENT IS FROM READERS. LPMI CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY MISHAPS ARISING THEREOF.
JOURNAL
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Your Photos
Your travel photos and the stories behind them GRAIN OF TRUTH Chandigarh, Punjab This picture was taken at the grain market in Sector 39, Chandigarh. Farmers come here from nearby villages to sell produce. This man came to sell his paddy crop at the market. I saw him sitting on the sacks and started a conversation with him. He told me he was waiting for his turn (to sell) since morning and was tired. He also pointed out that there was no proper arrangement for drinking water or eateries nearby. Farmers and traders often stay in the market for a full day, sometimes two. Chandigarh-based Manish Kumar Meena enjoys travel and photgraphy.
JOURNAL: YOUR PHOTOS
SUN AND SAND Giza, Egypt I was fortunate to capture this lovely image, just as the sun was rising on a clear morning in Giza. While one has seen umpteen images of pyramids, nothing really prepares you for the sheer scale of these architectural behemoths. Each stone piece weighs 2.5 tonnes and there are over 2.3 million of them in the great pyramid alone, pieced together with unbelievable precision. Standing there, looking at this 480ft structure, one can only imagine how over 6,000 workers and engineers assembled this enormous jigsaw puzzle. Seeing the pyramids left me convinced that the human race can achieve anything, we are limited by the power of our imagination alone. Kunal Gupta is a marketing professional based in Malaysia.
FIRE AND FAITH Kannur, Kerala Legend has it that Kandanar Kelan, an ancient warrior, was out hunting in a forest, when suddenly, the forest caught fire. With no means to escape, Kandanar Kelan climbed a tree, but soon, the fire consumed him. When a warrior god found Kandanar Kelan’s ashes, he traced his form with a bow, bringing him back to life. Theyyam celebrates both, Kandanar Kelan’s revival and his rage towards the fire which burned him. Chennai-based Udayan Sankar Pal is an entrepreneur & a travel photographer.
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JOURNAL: INSTAGR AM
Hide and peak, Panchachuli Base Camp, Uttarakhand, India @swearingpirate
Taking on the Rohtang Pass, Himachal Pradesh, India @bhatiapunit
A great tit braves the cold in Yerevan, Armenia @photon_monk
PHOTO CHALLENGE
Winter
Each month, we set a new challenge for our Instagram followers – to submit photos on a specific travel theme. Here we reveal the winning images for ‘winter’ @lonelyplanetmagazineindia
A frozen waterfall near Nerak, Ladakh, India @roni_manash
Morning rituals, Amritsar, Punjab, India @rand.aperture
The road to Tsomgo Lake, Sikkim, India @the_philocalist_tale
Beyond the wall, Himachal Pradesh, India @sambitdc
Barren branches in Kutch, Gujarat, India @rujvie
JOURNAL
IN YOUR WORDS
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RESOLUTIONS
2020, the year that was always “the future”, is here. The year we thought there would be flying cars. Instead, we have been given a deadline of 10 years to undo the destruction of our planet and get our act together. The luxury of making decisions without thinking of the consequences it has on our world's climate has been revoked.Travelling is not a pipe dream anymore. With 1.4 billion people on the move every year, the footprints we are leaving behind are made of carbon and no longer a romantic memory in the sand. Does this mean I will stop travelling? I am faced with a morally perplexing decision. So, in a world that travels for Instagram, my resolution in 2020 is to travel for myself. I’ve decided that I am not going to be that person whose bio reads “45+ countries, 100 cities and counting”.
I DO NOT WANT TO CHASE “INSTAGRAMMABLE” LOCATIONS AND FILL MY FEED WITH SELFIES.
If “the mountains are calling”, I will pay closer attention to see if that call is actually from the mountains or if it is the call of the thinly-veiled social construct that says, “You have to go because your friends did”. I want to travel because I want to, not because I can. My resolution for 2020 is to be conscious of my travel. To get rid of itineraries and keep myself open to the possibilities that come my way. To slow down and take it all in instead of rushing from point A to point B. To walk or use public transport instead of cars or cruises. To pick up the trash that is strewn on my path and plant trees when I can. To learn to cook local dishes and eat with locals. To stay with families that welcome me into their homes instead of pampering myself at fancy hotels. To remind myself that travel doesn’t mean checking things off a bucket list, but being mindful of places and people along the way. To respect the ecosystem and cultures imbibed and give back as much as possible. “Move, as far as you can, as much as you can,” said the late Anthony Bourdain. If he were here today, I believe he would have added, “But, do it responsibly.”
A new beginning by Jhansi Sneha 42
January 2020
2019 HAS BEEN A GREAT YEAR FOR ME IN TERMS OF TRAVEL, AND I HAVE LONELY PLANET MAGAZINE INDIA TO THANK FOR THAT. THE MAGAZINE HAS PROVIDED ME WITH A RANGE OF OPTIONS OVER THE YEARS. I LOVE THAT I CAN CONNECT WITH FELLOW TRAVELLERS AND LIVE VICARIOUSLY THROUGH PEOPLE’S EXPERIENCES IN THE MAGAZINE, EVEN WHEN I’M STUCK IN FRONT OF MY COMPUTER FOR 14 HOURS A DAY. THIS YEAR, I WANT TO BE MORE FLEXIBLE AND SPONTANEOUS. I'VE ALWAYS BEEN A GREAT PLANNER, WITH ITINERARIES ORGANISED TO THE T. WHILE HAVING A CLEAR TRAVEL AGENDA IS VERY REASSURING, I FEEL LIKE I’VE MISSED OUT ON SOME OF THE MAGIC OF DISCOVERING A NEW CITY. A COUPLE OF MY FAVOURITE EXPERIENCES THIS YEAR HAVE BEEN ABANDONING A CAREFULLY-LAID-OUT PLAN, TURNING LEFT INSTEAD OF RIGHT, AND BEING INVITED BY STRANGERS WHO HAVE NOW BECOME FAMILY. A SENSE OF (VERY DIFFERENT) ACCOMPLISHMENT HAS BEGUN TO TAKE OVER, AND, IN 2020, I WISH TO HOLD ON TO IT.
Living in the moment by Supriyo Nath
My travel goal for 2020, believe it or not, is to not travel. I just got back from a five-month backpacking trip, and, as I type this, I feel like I need to approach travel in a new way, because it isn’t as fulfilling as it once was. I’ve just moved to Australia, so I might travel around the continent to meet cousins, but, other than that, I plan on staying put. Having said that, I do want to explore the Kiwi ranges in the future, now that they’re right next door to me. I just need to figure out a way to do it that makes me happy.
Slow and steady by Rahil Vishwakarma
JOURNAL: IN YOUR WORDS
I like new places, meeting new people, trying new food, listening to new stories. What I don’t care for is the packing and unpacking phases. I like to move at a slow, leisurely pace, soaking in the morning sun, walking down narrow alleys, talking to older folks, eating local delicacies, all while staying away from the politics of it all. I also prefer long-drawn vacations, rather than a weekend getaway. That’s what I plan to do in 2020, with a bit of a twist. Instead of short holidays, I want to stay at places and volunteer to make a difference. Fortunately, my job allows me to work remotely and, therefore, I want to travel the length and breadth of a destination, seeing many sunrises and sunsets. As of now, my 2020 bucket list looks something like this * See more of my own city. * Try out more local food.
* VISIT A NEW PLACE EVERY THREE MONTHS AND STAY THERE FOR AT LEAST THREE WEEKS, DURING WHICH I PLAN TO HELP LOCAL FAMILIES OR TEACH KIDS. * Opt for homestays wherever I go.
* Experience Spiti in the winter and hopefully spot a snow leopard. * Watch rhododendrons bloom in Shimla. I would also like to spend more time in this lovely city and explore its many cafes. * I’d like to visit a new country, too. * I’d love to check out a Christmas market, even though it sounds cliched. And, finally, plan a vacation with my parents. I would have loved to see Portugal with them, but the trip might be too hectic for them, so we’re planning to go to Bali instead. Complete with blue skies and lush green rice fields, I think it will be the perfect detoxification trip. The most important thing about all the trips is responsible travelling, which includes taking care of the environment when I travel and keeping in mind how I travel. I plan to indulge in the richness of local cuisine and stories, while leaving nothing but a piece of my heart behind. Ready, set, go! by Prapti Chowdhury
Travellers are seldom alike. And so are the stories they measure out in miles. My travel lore is one of going with the flow. Trips planned by others. Always others. I went along passively for I knew not any other way. My memory straddles different phases of travel; the very first being the pages of books on whose inky paths I blissfully meandered into faraway lands. I was then taken on school and family trips that brought destinations into more realistic focus but left me at the mercy of the wishes and whims of others. Just like the confined life I led, my travels were pre-ordered. My world changed as I began a journey of my own trials and tribulations in my 20s. Life challenged me to break out of my protective cocoon. Two decades later, when I finally found my wings after being flung into a tornado of misery, I realised I was in a space filled with infinite possibilities. I was free in the true sense of the word. And I travelled. I travelled to escape loneliness and routine. I latched on to any known group, setting off in any direction. Bali or London, Uttarakhand or Meghalaya, Sri Lanka or Bhutan – I jumped onto the bandwagon. I travelled with groups of varying sizes, personas and plans. But I always travelled in a group. My travels were circumscribed by my prejudices and presumptions, consequently curbing my spirits to conform to what I perceived as safety. Born a Sagittarian with proverbial wheels on my feet, my restless spirit has been on a quest unquenchable. And my travels so far have only spiked my restlessness. AS I TEETER ON
THE EDGE OF 2020, LOOKING AT AGE 60 FAIR AND SQUARE IN THE EYE, I DISCOVER THE REASON FOR MY RESTLESSNESS. I HAVE NEVER GIVEN MYSELF A CHANCE. Never seen
the world as me. Never travelled the way I wished. Gradually, a resolution has dawned. I resolve to travel solo. To drink in alone the wonders of a place different from my own. Allow the sunshine in my heart to light up my path. Breathe in excitement in just the doses I need. I will let me be me. Vietnam, here I come, for a start. Alone.
The first step by Sabitha Shetty Having just quit my full-time job in advertising, I’ve decided to take a year’s gap in order to evaluate my life and what I want out of it. This year’s travel resolution is to revisit my favourite countries and stay in each for a much longer time, during a totally different season compared to my last visit. I WANT TO REVISIT SOUTH KOREA. ATTEND A COUPLE OF K-POP CONCERTS, SHOP FOR SKINCARE GOODIES, EAT AND REPEAT. I’d also like to revisit Scotland in the summer – I know it will be hauntingly beautiful. I hope to see a few new places too - maybe Rome, Jerusalem or Cairo. Places with rich history fascinate me and, right now, my travel possibilities are endless.
In the nick of time by Rukmini Bhattacharya
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PHOTOGRAPH: THEP THANANCHAI/123RF
From looking down from the heights to spending a night in i a jungle, j l get ready r to achieve some of o your most promising travel als this year!
F E A T U R E S
If you’ve always wanted to go to Brazil, allow Kaushal Karkhanis to lay out an itinerary that will thrill you without breaking the bank!
PHOTOGRAPH: MIKOLAJ64 / 123RF
WORDS KAUSHAL KARKHANIS
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@ExoticGringo
One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro welcomes the world to Brazil with open arms
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EXPLORING BRAZIL IN 10 DAYS
RIO DE JANEIRO (2 DAYS) Access everything you imagined Brazil to be!
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ESSENTIALS CHILL: Cabanna: XXX fb.com/cabannalounge; Av Atlântica, 1702, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro; caipirinhas from ` 420 EAT: Gaia Art & CafÊ: Rua Gustavo Sampaio, 323, Loja A, Leme, Rio de Janeiro; 9am – 10pm; mains from ` 700 EAT: Restaurante Marius Degustare: www.marius.com. br; Av Atlântica, 290, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro; set degustation menu from ` 3,400/ person with meat, seafood, hot and cold dishes and desserts STAY: Windsor Copa Hotel: www.windsorhoteis.com; Av Nossa Sra de Copacabana, 335, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro; from ` 6,000
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DAY Visit Christ the Redeemer and take a tram to boho hood Santa Teresa Fittingly counted among the New Seven Wonders of the World, the magniďŹ cent and iconic Christ the Redeemer statue welcomes the world to Brazil with arms wide open! You can visit the monument in many ways – via a trek, a shuttle bus from Copacabana Beach, by car or by using an app taxi service like Uber. All these take you up to Paineiras, from where you take a designated ofďŹ cial vehicle. Or simply take the ofďŹ cial toy train from the Cosme Velho station. DeďŹ nitely the most fun experience, Trem Do Corcovado – the ofďŹ cial toy train – is perfect, especially when you’re travelling with family or in a group. Visit as early as possible in the morning to ensure you have the rest of the day free to explore the bohemian chic neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. While it’s best to wander about on foot in this relaxed neighbourhood, this is also the only region in Rio De Janeiro where the tramway – Bondes de Santa Teresa – still operates, which is yet another fun experience, while you enjoy the sights and sounds it has to offer. Don’t leave Santa Teresa without trying açaĂ, my favourite food in the whole world, at my new favourite place in the city,the vegetarian and vegan-friendly Cultivar Cafe.AçaĂ berry pulp is traditionally served in a bowl topped with granola, making this super healthy snack the unofďŹ cial food of Rio. Besides being a superfood, it’s delightfully delicious and makes for a great any-time snack! If you’re looking for typically Brazilian cuisine, AprazĂvel is your best bet. Try the tropical ďŹ sh ( 1,800) or the Galinhada Caipira – free-range chicken ( 1,200).
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ESSENTIALS SEE: Christ the Redeemer Monument: www.visit.rio/en/ que_fazer/christtheredeemer; 8am – 6pm; adult: ` 786 (high season) and ` 530 (low season), child between 5 and 11: ` 275, free for under-fives TAKE: Trem Do Corcovado: www.tremdocorcovado.rio/ general-information.html; 8am – 7pm [trains depart every 30 minutes]; ` 1,140/ person weekdays, ` 1,400/ person weekends (includes entry to the Christ The Redeemer Monument) TAKE: Bondes de Santa Teresa (tram): www.bondesde santateresa.rj.gov.br; 8am – 5.40pm Mon – Fri, 10am – 5.40pm Sat, 11am – 4.40pm Sun & holidays; ticket: ` 340 EAT: Cultivar Cafe: Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno, 124, Santa Teresa; açai from ` 150 EAT: AprazĂvel: Rua AprazĂvel, 62, Santa Teresa, mains from ` 1,000
PHOTOGRAPH: MARCHELLO74, RAFAEL DIAS TRAFANIUC, SVITLANA TERESHCHENKO, MIKOLAJ64 / 123RF
Arrive, chill, soak in the Rio vibe... After one of the longest journeys you could do from India (20+ hours of travelling, with layovers!), it would be wise to spend your ďŹ rst day simply relaxing on the world-famous Copacabana Beach in Rio – in celebration of being here as well as to set the tone for your trip. Don’t carry any valuables with you – just sunscreen, some money and a beach towel will do. Deck chairs and umbrellas can be rented; or hang out at one of the beach kiosks that provide you with free ones if you patronise them. Alternatively, use your own beach towel and buy local snacks from the beach vendors. Soak it all in, and then make your way to the Copacabana beach promenade. It’s time for a caipirinha (a typical Brazilian cocktail made using cachaça )! Cabanna is best around sunset, so get here by 5pm and chill! Dinner on your mind? Meat and seafood lovers will enjoy dining at Restaurante Marius Degustare, while Gaia Art & CafĂŠ will be your haven if you’re vegetarian or vegan. The Windsor Copa Hotel is conveniently located in the heart of Copacabana and reasonably priced. DAY
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1. Santa Teresa is the only region in Rio that still has trams 2. Aerial views of the Copacabana and Ipenama Beaches in Rio 3. Made with cachaça, the caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail Facing page: A bowl of açaí comes topped with fruit and granola
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FOZ DO IGUACU (2 DAYS) Revel in nature’s unabashed splendour! Foz Do Iguaçu: Fly in and explore majestic waterfalls! Beaches, nature and the Carnaval are perhaps the three things that come to mind when you think of Brazil – and rightly so! Moving on from the beaches and charm of Rio De Janeiro, walk into nature’s wholesomeness in Foz Do Iguaçu. This is where you understand that Brazil is about embracing it all – which is already hinted at by the open arms of Christ The Redeemer. Unlike the Niagara Falls, Foz Do Iguaçu consists of a series of seemingly-neverending waterfalls, which can be experienced as a misty walking trail where you won’t be able to stop ooh-ing and aah-ing as you walk along! Visit the Iguaçu National Park and enjoy nature in all its glory; factor in at least three to four hours to walk the trail, taking along some on-the-go food or planning to eat at the park restaurant at the end of the trail. Carry a light jacket or poncho to protect yourself from the waterfall mist – or just have fun and soak it all in, if you prefer! Post sundown, experience a stellar show of various dance forms from across South America at the Iporã Show, which also offers buffet spreads and table service so you can enjoy the performances and dine at the same time. Admittedly, vegetarian options are very limited here, but the focus is the show – and it doesn’t disappoint. In fact, it is perhaps the closest you could get to witnessing the gaiety of the Carnaval if you’re not visiting Brazil in February. Stay the night at the value-for-money Iguassu Express Hotel; you’ll find it to be in a good central location. DAY
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A toucan at Parque das Aves in Foz Do Iguaçu Facing page: At its most basic, arroz com feijao is rice and beans; you can add chicken (frango), fish (peixe) or veggies (legumes) as options
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PHOTOGRAPH: DAN BACIU TUCANO, KLEBER CORDEIRO COSTA / 123RF
ESSENTIALS VISIT: Iguaçu National Park: www.visitbrasil.com/ attractions/parque-nacional-de-iguacu-iguacunational-park.html; 9am – 5 pm; entry from ` 1,000 SEE: Iporã Show: www.iporashow.com.br; tickets from ` 1,375 STAY: Iguassu Express Hotel: www.iguassuexpresshotel. com.br; Av das Cataratas, 2500, Vila Yolanda, Foz do Iguaçu; from ` 3,100
EXPLORING BRAZIL IN 10 DAYS Foz Do Iguaçu : Visit the Bird Park or the Itaipu hydel project; fly back to Rio. Foz Do Iguaçu is also home to the fabulous Parque Das Aves, a bird park right next to the Iguaçu National Park, which is the entry point for the waterfalls on the Brazilian side. It certainly deserves a visit – even if just a short one. Another great attraction in the neighbourhood is the Itaipu Power Project – a hydel energy project that powers 90 per cent of Paraguay’s and a big part of Brazil’s electricity needs. Interestingly, Paraguay generates so much power from it that it sells unutilised energy to Brazil! Depending on how much time you have on Day 2 based on your return flight to Rio De Janeiro, you could do either one or both these options. Back in Rio De Janeiro... stay in the Botafogo area this time, to explore a new part of the city that’s not too touristy and yet very centrally located. DAY
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ESSENTIALS VISIT: Parque Das Aves: www.parquedasaves. com.br/en; Av das Cataratas, 12450, Vila Yolanda, Foz do Iguaçu; 8.30am – 5pm; from ` 1,000/person VISIT: Turismo Itaipu (Binational Dam & Hydel Project): https://ingressos. turismoitaipu.com.br (in Portuguese); tours: ` 720/1.5 hours, ` 2,200/ 2.5 hours STAY: Ibis Styles Rio De Janeiro: www.accorHotels.com; Rua São Clemente, 30, Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro; from ` 4,000 EAT: Fogo de Chão is an all-youcan-eat steakhouse (www.fogodechao. com.br; Av Reporter Nestor Moreira, Botafogo [across the main street from Ibis Styles Rio De Janeiro]; mains from ` 950).
ILHA GRANDE (2 DAYS) Slow down and soak in the island life Ilha Grande: Arrive and explore nearby walking trails When you return to pulsating Rio De Janeiro from the lap of nature, you might temporarily detest human development. This is when you’ll be happy to discover Ilha Grande – an island off the coast of Angra Dos Reis in the state of Rio De Janeiro where no cars are allowed, the stars seem to shine brighter, and life runs at a slower and happier pace. From Rio De Janeiro, you could either book a tour or take a bus to Angra Dos Reis or Managaratiba and then hop on to a ferry to Abraão beach on Ilha Grande. With 16 well-marked walking trails, Ilha Grande is a delight for trekkers – or for anyone wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of city life. The closest spots from Abraão are about 1.5 to 2km away – relics of an aqueduct and the Colônia Penal Cândido Mendes Jail as part of Trail 1 (Trilha 1 – see Essentials). Apparently, this is where Brazil’s most dangerous criminals used to be held, but, today, it is a simple museum that houses historical exhibits and photos. Think of it as Brazil’s Kaala Paani. Strangely, there’s the aptly-named Praia Preta (black sand beach) right next to it; stop here on your way back to Abraão. Unless your fitness level is ace, save your energy for the next day and hop on an escunas (local boat) that can take you from point to point around the gigantic island to cover the various points of interest. Short trips cost just ` 250, while multi-beach hopping tours go all the way up to ` 6,000. Most pousadas (guesthouses) in Abraão would have the latest offers. Take a break at the Biergarten Pub. Besides serving great beers and other spirits, this is one of the few places on the island that is also a qilo restaurant – where you pay for food by weight, buffet style. Or try the Brazilian staple, arroz com feijão (expect a version of rajma chawal) at Amarelinho Do Canto. Or grab some açaí from a street vendor while walking around Abraão. Make Recreio da Praia your base; located at the beachfront, just a short walk from the pier, this stay option is very convenient if you have bags, since there is no vehicular transportation anywhere on the island! DAY
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ESSENTIALS: VISIT: Colônia Penal Cândido Mendes Jail: Follow the T1 Trail (Abraão Circuit), which is a well-marked walking trail from Abraão. This is the easiest trail, just 2km long. EAT / DRINK: Biergarten Pub: 23968-000, Rua Getúlio Vargas, 118, Vila do Abraão, Ilha Grande EAT: Amarelinho Do Canto serves simple Brazilian food on the beach. Try the arroz com feijao – rice and beans; add chicken (frango), fish (peixe) or veggies (legumes) as soup. The traditional dish is feijoada = pork+feijao (Ruada Praia,Vila do Abraão, Angra dos Reis [towards Che Lagarto]; mains from ` 430). STAY: Recreio da Praia: www.recreiodapraia.com.br; Ruada Praia, Vila do Abraão, Angra dos Reis; from ` 6,800
EXPLORING BRAZIL IN 10 DAYS
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ESSENTIALS EAT: Las Sorrentinas: www.pousadapaloma.com/restaurante; Rua Getúlio Vargas, 638, Vila do Abraão; mains from ` 700
PARATY (2 DAYS) Check out a Colonial, cobblestoned, laid-back coastal town Paraty: Drive down and stroll down cobblestoned streets. Continuing further South, head to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Paraty,which feels like a place lost in time (in a good way!) with cobblestoned streets, heritage Portuguese architecture and a relaxed vibe that continues from Ilha Grande.To get there, take a ferry from Ilha Grande to Angra Dos Reis and drive down or take a bus from there – or take a direct ferry – though Angra has more options and more frequent departures. Once in the heart of the historical city centre,walking is the best way to get around and also the best ‘thing to do’ – every lane becomes a discovery; serendipity greets you around every corner. If you want to add some meaning to your wanderings, and don’t want to be flaneur-ing about on your own, join one of Paraty Explorer’s walking tours in the morning or evening. Keep in mind that taxis can be very expensive (over R$ 20 / 340 for short distances) and are best avoided here. In Paraty,Pousada Arte Colonial makes a great place at which to stay; expect rustic decor,a cosy pool, a hearty breakfast and a laid-back vibe,all while being centrally located. Do stop by the Casa da Cultura (Culture House), an erstwhile jail that now works to preserve culture, and showcases the music and visual arts of Paraty. By evening,dine at Restaurante Caminho do Ouro, close to Culture House, which is known for its seafood. DAY
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ESSENTIALS VISIT: Casa da Cultura: Rua Dona Geralda, 194, C t Histórico, Centro Hi tó i Paraty; P t entry t free f SEE: Paraty Explorer: www.paratyexplore er. com; tours at 10am and 6pm; ` 2,20 00/person STAY: Pousada Arte Colonial: www. pousadaartecolonial.com.br; Rua da Matriz, 59, Centro Histórico, Paraty; from ` 3 3,800 EAT: Restaurante Caminho do Ouro: Rua Dr Samuel Costa, 236, Centro Histórico, Paraty; 7pm onwards; closed Sun; mains from ` 680 EAT: Banana Da Terra, right next doorr, is another great option and also more vvegetarian friendly (www.restaurantebananadatterra.com. br/?lang=en; set menus from ` 2,000 0).
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PHOTOGRAPH: THIAGO FIGUEREDO LOPES, SERGII MOSTOVYI, LEONARDO ZANETI DE CARVALHO /123RF
Ilha Grande: Take the walking trail to Pico De Papagaio and enjoy Lopes Mendes Beach After getting familiar with the island and soaking in its vibe, the second day on Ilha Grande would be best spent taking the trail up to Pico De Papagaio – the second highest peak on the island at an elevation of 925m above sea level. Offering expansive views of the island and the Angra Dos Reis archipelago, this trail will be worth the effort if you’re up for it! Alternatively,if you’d rather spend the day lazing around or continuing your island exploration by boat, visit the beautiful Lopes Mendes Beach – once voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and a surfer paradise.You could either do it as a walking trail or hop aboard an escuna from Abraão to Praia Pouso and back – boats don’t actually dock at Lopes Mendes due to stronger ocean currents and waves. Once you’ve had your fill of surf and sunshine,head back to Abraão for an early dinner. Island life is slow and relaxed, but dinner is usually had early – so try to reach Las Sorrentinas just after catching the sunset or just in time to catch it back in Abraão.This excellent Argentinian restaurant is famous for its delectable pastas. DAY
Paraty is one of Brazil’s biggest makers and exporters of cachaça, a distilled spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice Facing page: llha Grande has the most marvellous beaches and interesting doors
Paraty: Taste cachaça; visit the Toboga waterfall; and witness a crazy ‘sport’. Post breakfast, head to the Toboggan (Tobogã) Waterfall and Tarzan Pit, a natural waterslide just a 20-minute drive from the city centre, where you’ll also discover a crazy local ‘sport’. The nature of the rock formation here attracts ‘rock surfers’ who slide down into the pool – it’s an exhilarating sight to witness! Caution: Do not try the ‘rock surfing’ stunts yourself – there are no safety precautions or facilities around. Paraty is one of Brazil’s biggest makers and exporters of cachaça – so much so that Brazil’s signature white rum was once known as parati. Just a 20-minute drive from the city centre will bring you to the Engenho D’Ouro Cachaça Distillery where you can discover how cachaça is made and sample some flavours. The distillery also offers an optional jungle jeep tour along with the cachaça tasting, and you’ll find a bar and gift DAY
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shop in the same premises. Grab a bite at Refúgio Restaurante Paraty, a Brazilian and Mediterranean restaurant offering al fresco dining in a lovely, lively setting. Then it’s time to head back to Rio De Janeiro; don’t drive ifyou’re drinking! ESSENTIALS Toboggan (Tobogã) waterfall and Tarzan Pit: near Igreja Nossa Senhora da Penha RJ-165, Paraty Engenho D’Ouro: www.engenhodouro.com.br; Rodovia Parati-Cunha, 7833, Km 8, Penha, Paraty (on the way to Toboggan waterfall); jeep tours leaving from Paraty, covering the waterfall and including tastings at Engenho D’Ouro, start from `2,200/ person Refúgio Restaurante Paraty: www.instagram.com/refugioparaty; Praça da Bandeira, 4, Centro Histórico; mains from ` 600
Part of the Etnias street art installation by artist Kobra Facing page: The Selaron Steps (inset) and the reflection of the Metropolitan Cathedral
RIO DE JANEIRO (2 DAYS) Live the Carioca life! Rio: Explore Downtown Back in the city of samba and sunshine… Rio will start to feel a bit more familiar now, so try moving base from the beachfront to the centre – a hub of commerce by day and merriment by night, and the heart of Rio’s parties on weekends. Both Hotel Ibis Rio De Janeiro Centro and Selina Lapa are good stay options, the latter being a ‘poshtel’ (posh hostel) with a social vibe and even its own radio station, set in a gorgeous heritage building. Start exploring with the Selaron Steps. Though Chilean artist Jorge Selarón was a painter, this is certainly regarded as the pinnacle of his life’s work. He started decorating the steps outside his house as a beautification project in 1990. Over the years, people started appreciating his work and kept gifting him tiles from all around the world to add to his project. His work lives on as one of the most vibrant attractions of Rio De Janeiro. Visit early to avoid the crowds. Moving on, stop by the aqueduct that makes for the quintessential backdrop to downtown Rio De Janeiro. The Santa Teresa tram runs over it today, and it serves as the landmark for the most fun street parties in the city on weekends. Next, visit the unique cone-shaped Metropolitan Cathedral just 500m away, and marvel at the beautiful architecture while saying a prayer. Continue further along Republica do Paraguai Road to spot another impressive place of worship – the Presbyterian Rio Cathedral in all its Gothic glory. Pass the Ibis Hotel, cross the Rua Da Carioca, and keep walking until you reach Luís de Camões Road where you’ll find the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura (Royal Portuguese Reading Room), which houses one of the largest collections of Portuguese books in the world. Reminiscent of Hogwarts, it is also one of the most enchanting libraries in the whole world, the kind that would turn anyone into a book lover! For a movie-like time warp, take a break from the walking and hop into a taxi for a short 1km ride to the Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow) along Olympic Boulevard. This entire stretch, along with the new VLT Carioca light rail system, was commissioned for the Rio 2016 Olympics and showcases a completely modern and futuristic vision of the city, as well as of the DAY
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PHOTOGRAPH: MIHAI ANDRITOIU, MATYAS REHAK, RUI BAIAO / 123RF
country.Spend some time at the museum to introspect, explore and imagine the possibilities of what the future might bring. If you’re short on time, it’s worth visiting even just to admire the façade.And,of course, buy tickets online to avoid the long queues; it’s free if you visit on Tuesdays. As you walk along the futuristic promenade, you will be greeted with gigantic murals titled ‘Etnias’ by ace artist Kobra, the Brazilian street artist who had also worked on the giant mural at Churchgate Station in Mumbai.The promenade would also be a good place to grab a bite – it’s lined with stalls, restaurants and kiosks selling food and beverages. The Museum OfArt and the brand-new AquaRio are other attractions on this stretch that you might want to stop at, if time allows. Finally,when it’s time to let your hair down and party,head back to Lapa by taxi or even by foot if you still have the energy (about 2.6km and 30 minutes of walking); it would be wiser to save that energy for some dancing! Arrive early at Rio Scenarium to get hold of the best tables at which to wine and dine, and prepare to shake a leg.This is one of the city’s most respected cultural heritage, culinary and social dancing hubs.On weekends, the party scene spills onto the streets of Lapa; just go with the flow and enjoy the best of Rio’s nightlife! ESSENTIALS STAY: Hotel Ibis Rio De Janeiro Centro: Torre I, Rua Silva Jardim, 32, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; from ` 2,500 STAY: Selina Lapa: www.selina.com; Largo da Lapa, 9, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; private rooms from ` 4,100 SEE: Selaron Steps: Rua Joaquim Silva, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; open 24 hours SEE: Metropolitan Cathedral: Av Chile, 245, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; 7am – 5pm SEE: Presbyterian Rio Cathedral: Rua Silva Jardim, 23, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; 9.30am – 6pm Mon – Fri, 8am – 1pm, 5pm – 10pm Sun VISIT: Real Gabinete Português de Leitura: www.realgabinete.com.br; Rua Luís de Camões, 30, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; 9am – 6pm Mon – Fri FREE! VISIT: Museu do Amanhã: https://ingressos. museudoamanha.org.br; Praça Mauá, 1, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; 10am – 6pm Tues – Sun; entry: ` 340; buy tickets online to avoid the long queues FREE ON TUES VISIT: Museum Of Art: www.museudeartedorio.org.br/ en/home; Praça Mauá, 5, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; 10am – 5pm Tues – Sun; entry: ` 340 FREE ON TUES VISIT: AquaRio: www.aquariomarinhodorio.com.br/; Praça Muhammad Ali, Via Binário do Porto, Gamboa, Rio de Janeiro; 10am – 6pm; entry: ` 340 EAT/ PARTY: Rio Scenarium: www.rioscenarium.art.br; Rua do Lavradio, 20, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; from 7pm Wed – Sun; cover charge from ` 650
Rio: Grab caipirinhas, eat dollops of açaí, shop for flip-flops, laze on the beach Make the most of your last day in Rio: live this day like a carioca (Rio native) spends every weekend.This means starting the day with some beach running or other sport,going shopping, spending the evening at the beach, and tanking up on açaí, cerveza (beer) and caipirinhas. Savour the sunset at Ipanema Beach and join in as everyone applauds the setting of the sun in gratitude – as simple and strange as this might seem,you’ll be smiling wide with goosebumps as you experience this phenomenon in person. Before you head back to depart for your flight,stop by Praça Mahatma Gandhi for yet another pleasant surprise – Brazil’s homage to India’s non-violent freedom struggle makes for a perfect transition to switch back to one’s identity and roots. Still, as you board your flight, you might feel a sudden urge to return to Brazil even before you’ve left.This feeling you might have never experienced before, this sweet itch to want to go back to the Brazilian life is called saudades. Enjoy it! DAY
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ESSENTIALS VISIT: Praça Mahatma Gandhi: Praça Mahatma Gandhi, Centro, Rio de Janeiro MORE ON THE RIO CARNIVAL IN OUR EXPLORE SECTION
MAKE IT HAPPEN: BRAZIL Essentials
GETTING THERE The India – Dubai – Brazil route is perhaps the best in terms of convenience and cost. Other options include flying via the USA, South Africa, Ethiopia or Europe (Amsterdam and Italy), but you might need an extra visa depending on stopovers. Airlines plying these routes include Emirates, Ethiopian Airlines, KLM, Alitalia, Avianca and United. The average return fare is about ` 1 lakh; if you find anything better, you’re good! GETTING AROUND Try Despegar (www.despegar.com) for domestic flights within Brazil, Busca Onibus (www.buscaOnibus.com) for local buses, and BlaBlaCar for intercity ride shares. Uber might not be available in smaller towns like Paraty and the no-car Ilha Grande. VISA Even though the Brazilian visa waiver has been announced for Indian passport holders, it hasn’t been implemented officially as we go to press – which means you’ll still need to apply for one. Apply in Mumbai or New Delhi, and account for 10 days for the application to be processed (www.mumbai.itamaraty.gov.br/en-us, www.novadelhi.itamaraty.gov.br/en-us; from ` 6,000). If you’re already travelling abroad and have at least 10 days in a city with a Brazilian consulate, you could also apply there. CURRENCY 1 Brazilian Real = ` 17 EMBASSY ALERT Embassy of India, Brasilia, Brazil: www.eoibrasilia.gov.in
GOOD TO KNOW
FANCY A CURRY/ VEG OUT
Costs: Besides flights and your choice of stay options, budget for about ` 1,700/ day for eating out and getting around. The good news is that the Brazilian Real is currently at its lowest in the past decade.
In Rio de Janeiro, Taj Mahal Restaurant near the Rodrigo De Freitas Lake (also simply called ‘Lagoa’) has some good reviews for desi food, and the chef is Indian – so you can trust them to do justice to the food (www.tajmahalrio.com; Rua José Joaquim Seabra, 19, Lagoa; mains from ` 1,000). Take a Brazilian friend along if you must eat at an Indian restaurant, to give it a cultural twist!
Vaccination: Although Brazil doesn’t need you to get it, ensure you get the yellow fever vaccine for your own safety, and that you’re carrying the yellow fever vaccination certificate with you when you return home to India. You might be asked for it; failure to produce might result in a 14-day medical quarantine (www.ihrpoe.co.in/yf-vacc-centres.php). Safety: Brazil has one of the most diverse ethnicity mixes – and Indian skin tone is almost a camouflage; many locals might mistake you to be Brazilian! Use this to your advantage and blend in – act like the locals do, avoid walking into dark alleys in Rio De Janeiro alone, and, if possible, learn some basic Portuguese phrases with some help from YouTube: it will go a long way in eliciting smiles, respect and, most certainly... new Brazilian friends! Shopping: Things to bring back from Brazil include flip-flops, cachaça (distilled sugarcane spirit), swimwear and fashion, coffee and souvenirs. Walking along the Nossa Senhora De Copacabana Street in Copa or Visconde de Piraja Street in Ipanema are great window-shopping and people-watching experiences, even if you buy nothing. If you’re a mall rat, try BarraShopping or Botafogo Praia Shopping.
SELF DRIVING
Unless you’re experienced with self driving in foreign countries, this might not be the best idea given the language barrier. So consider ride-sharing apps like BlaBlaCar, book a tour, or take intercity buses – these are more comfortable than those back home, with some even offering the option of attached toilets.
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Another new addition in Rio is Hoje Tem Curry by Indian origin founder Bob Nadkarni, famous for his stunning jazz club The Maze that recently closed down (www.fb.com/HojeTemCurry; Rua das Laranjeiras, 125, Laranjeiras; mains from ` 616). Dona Vegana in Centro serves great vegan fare – perfect for both vegetarians and vegans (www.donavegana.com.br; Av Mal Floriano, 13, Centro, Rio de Janeiro; mains from ` 340).
PHOTOGRAPHS: WILLIAM RODRIGUES DOS SANTOS, DIEGO GRANDI, NATIKA / 123RF
BEST TIME TO VISIT December to March (Christmas to Carnaval) is the peak season in Brazil. The possibility of rains and floods post June is as common and unpredictable as it is in India, so always carry a poncho with you, if not an umbrella or raincoat. Brazil can actually be an all-year round destination if you’re not picky about weather. Still, the peak season between December and March is also the best weather across the country, so consider shoulder season to be before or after this period.
Watching a single animal can be amazing enough, but to see thousands – or even millions – together? That’s worth crossing the globe for IT’S A LATE-OCTOBER MORNING IN THE HIGHLANDS OF MEXICO’S MICHOACÁN STATE.
The air is chilly, with a tinge of wood-smoke from the houses in the valley. You’re lying in the dry grass, looking up at the rangy oyamel firs. The trunks of the trees, usually brown, are instead a rusty orange. The same is true of the needles, usually a deep piney green. Suddenly, the trees begin to ripple, as if covered in flames. A blanket of orange rises, undulating, into the sky. Then, it settles towards the ground and you’re surrounded by millions upon millions of monarch butterflies. Warmed by the morning sun, they descend to the ground to stay cool during the day. A single butterfly is stunning, a work of art in miniature. But so many at once is awe-inspiring in an entirely different way. Such is the power of the swarm. Swarms, flocks or massive herds of animals – from crab to wildebeest – make for some of the Earth’s best travel sights. Watching creatures move in sync with each other and with invisible natural forces can be anything from an endorphin rush, to a great photo opportunity, to a full-on spiritual experience. Bring your camera and your willingness to be wonderstruck. BAT EXODUS, MALAYSIAN BORNEO Each dusk in Gunung Mulu National Park, millions of bats make their exodus from Deer Cave, swirling into the darkening sky like an unholy tornado. Visit the yawning limestone cave itself first, which is home not only to the 12 bat species, but also to imposing stalactites. F The nearest airport is in Miri. Tours of the cave run twice daily; book via the website; www.mulunationalpark.com.
WILDEBEEST MIGRATION, KENYA & TANZANIA Feel the thunder as two million wildebeest and zebra stampede across the Serengeti and the Masai Mara National Reserve (pictured right) from July to October in search of grazing land. Watch them from your 4WD, experiencing the thrill when they escape the clutches of a lion or a Nile crocodile. F Longstanding Arusha-based Roy Safaris offers tailor-made safaris (www.roysafaris.com; from ` 3,23,700 for six days). CRAB MIGRATION, CHRISTMAS ISLAND In November or December every year, 100 million flaming red crabs (pictured left) march from their forest homes to their beach breeding grounds, turning the entire island scarlet. Traffic and human activity are brought to a halt as the crabs scurry across roads; there are even specially built crab bridges and tunnels to aid their movement. It is both freaky and awesome. F Fly here from Perth, Australia, or Jakarta, Indonesia. For predicted migrations and viewings, see www.christmas.net.au.
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PHOTOGRAPHS: INGO ARNDT/NATURE PICTURE, SUSAN RICHEY SCHMITZ
CAPELIN ROLL, NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR, CANADA Sometime in June or July, millions of tiny silver fish called capelin arrive en masse at the pebbled beaches outside St John’s. Locals gather to watch them turn the seas to glitter, then scoop them into buckets to eat fresh. Humpback whales often follow, so bring binoculars. F Middle Cove Beach in St John’s is usually a hot spot. Visit www. ecapelin.ca for information about the capelins’ arrival.
The Seven Sisters in the Indian North East are where some of the most unusual foods are to be found. It’s time to tantalise your tastebuds IT’S HARD TO FIND BAD LOCAL DISHES IN INDIA. Each state has it own unique culinary identity,
one that has been perfected over the years. While this leaves you with a smorgasbord to pick from, it does have a drawback – crowd favourites often become synonymous with the best a state has to offer. It’s time to look a little further and dig a little deeper (literally) to tantalise your taste buds.
HORNETS IN KOHIMA, NAGALAND When it comes to food, Nagaland marches to the beat of its own drum. With an ingredient-focussed
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cuisine, this North Eastern state has a lot of fantastic dishes to offer the intrepid gourmand. Nagaland is inhabited by 16 major tribes, each with their own distinctive culinary style, and the best place to sample their dishes is at the local markets in Kohima. Keep your eyes peeled for a local favourite, hornets, often featured in stews, or steamed larvae. These dishes are commonplace here — Kohima is best experienced with an open mind and a voracious appetite. SILKWORMS IN SHILLONG, MEGHALAYA Nothing warms you up during the cold months like a quick snack. Like locals in every other city, the residents of Meghalaya enjoy munching on something crisp and crunchy while on the go. And the state has its own speciality — silkworms (pictured below left). A great source of protein, silkworms can be found in and around local
markets, often fried or steamed and subtly seasoned. They’re also served at local liquor joints, replacing peanuts, which, we agree, compared with silkworms, pale in comparison!
L RA NT N CE STERE EASTAT
RED ANT CHUTNEY IN BASTAR DISTRICT, CHHATTISGARH Although it sounds daunting, red ant chutney (pictured below) is a rather easy dish to make — red chilli, salt and ginger are ground up with the star ingredient: red ants and their eggs. The tribes in Bastar source the ants from forested areas to make this fresh, spicy dish, rich in formic acid, and known for its health benefits. And the taste? Well, Gordon Ramsay swore off mango chutney after trying red ant chutney, so you know the people of Bastar are definitely on to something.
WORDS: AURELIA FERANDES PHOTOGRAPH: VINOBHA NATAHN (ANT CHUTNEY); MARTINFREDY/123RF (BHUT
BHUT JOLOKIA PEPPERS IN ARUNACHAL PRADESH, ASSAM & MANIPUR This notorious pepper isn’t much of a secret, yet there aren’t many who can claim to have devoured it and lived to tell the tale. At a whopping 1 million on the scoville scale, the bhut jolokia (pictured right), also known as the ghost pepper, is among the top 10 spiciest peppers in the world. However, if you find yourself in North East India, prepare to be inflamed: this infamous pepper is treated like any other chilli, often pickled, ground up as chutney, or used as a key ingredient in marinades. Its pickled variation is a crowd favourite, so be sure to stock up. PS – They make great souvenirs.
On the banks of Hudson Bay, residents in the isolated Canadian town of Churchill live in perpetual fear of polar bear attacks, yet depend on the mighty carnivores for their livelihoods Words MARCEL THEROUX @therouvian Photographs JONATHAN GREGSON @gregsonjonathan
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Churchill steps up its polar bear alert programme on Halloween night Facing page: 1. Churchill is an isolated town – the nearest city, Winnipeg, is a 90-minute flight away 2. Bob Windsor keeps watch for trespassing bears
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SEEKING POLAR BEARS IN CHURCHILL, CANADA
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SOMEWHERE OUT THERE LIES SOMETHING GENUINELY WORTHY OF OUR FEAR VERY Halloween, Bob Windsor drives his truck out to the rocks that edge the steely waters of Hudson Bay and scans the shoreline for polar bears. A bandolier of shotgun cartridges is slung over the headrest of his seat. Bob carries three guns and a range of ammunition: cracker shells to frighten bears off with noise, paint-ball rounds that deliver a painful sting and, for the most desperate circumstances, lead slugs the size of an AA battery. These are only accurate at short range, but one of them can stop a rampaging half-tonne animal bent on taking a human life. Bob’s been in charge of Churchill’s polar bear alert programme for almost 10 years; he’s had to use them twice. “What’s incredible about the bears is their speed and stealth,” he says. “They lay down somewhere and you just don’t see them.” Compact and whiskered, Bob projects the alertness and physical confidence of a natural hunter, but he’s looking at something that bothers him. A man in an orange hat is hunkered down between two rocks on the beach, about 50 yards beyond the signs warning anyone from walking in the area. Bob has chased two bears out of town in the past 24 hours, both close to this point, where a traditional inukshuk, an Inuit marker, stands as a navigation aid for kayakers and hunters. I look at the man through my binoculars. He notices me watching him and slithers out of sight into the rocks. I tell Bob that the man seems determined to become bear food. “That’s what I was thinking too,” Bob says. “If he ends up being taken, at least we’ll find his orange toque.”
Keeping the human population of Churchill safe from bears is a year-round endeavour, but it peaks in bear season. In October and November every year, polar bears that have been forced off their seal-hunting grounds by the melting of the ice in Hudson Bay arrive in the area to await the winter freeze. As soon as the ice is strong enough to carry them, they vanish onto the bay. But, during those weeks while the ice is forming, 800 to 900 bears are at large in the area around the town. The critical date in Bob’s diary is October 31, when the 200 or so children of Churchill take to the streets in Halloween costumes. “The big focus is the trick-or-treating – that’s what we man-up for,” Bob says. He has 15 units on patrol: five of his own and 10 drawn from the police, emergency services and utility companies. Their task is to prevent an encounter between children hungry for candy and polar bears hungry for pretty much anything. Just after 3.30pm, a helicopter makes a circuit of the town and pronounces it bear-free. About an hour later, the first groups of children appear on the snowy streets in small groups, some with their parents, some without. The light turns gold and fades, the temperature drops. Four-year-old Emily Robertson is a pirate, her sister Natalie is Winnie the Pooh; there is a boy dressed as Ron Weasley; a scary clown; a girl in a pumpkin costume; assorted vampires and ghouls. As darkness falls, there is a frisson in knowing that somewhere out there lurks something genuinely worthy of our fear. Churchill has a complicated relationship with its bears. They are both an economic opportunity and an existential
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SEEKING POLAR BEARS IN CHURCHILL, CANADA
TOWNSFOLK ARE WELL-SCHOOLED IN THE DANGERS OF LIVING WITH THESE HUNGRY PREDATORS danger. The tiny town – population 900 – was established in the 18th century and has been variously a fur-trading post, a military base and a port. Today, its economy depends on nature tours. Churchill is the self-described ‘polar bear capital of the world’. It hosts 10 times its population in tourists, who come to see its bears. Nowhere on Earth can you see polar bears so close, so reliably and in such great numbers. Until 2005, a large open-air dump drew bears to the town, and tourists could have a cheap – and dangerous – polar bear safari by renting a vehicle and driving to it (“They were fat, garbage-fed bears,” is Bob’s assessment). The dump has now closed and the only way to see the bears officially is to join a tour out to the Churchill Wildlife Management Area, or to Wapusk National Park. The animals can be viewed from the air by helicopter, or on specially-built tundra buggies that trundle 15-odd miles out from the city into the elemental landscape of snow, rocks, stunted Arctic willow and frozen water. During the three days I spent in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area, I counted 48 separate encounters with polar bears: scratching themselves on willow bushes, sprawling comically on kelp beds, play-fighting, poking under the snow with their long black tongues, standing up on their hind legs to peer curiously inside the buggy. I saw sibling bears, mother
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bears travelling with grown cubs, and huge lone male bears with faces scarred from the vicious competition for mates. The strange enchantment of watching them never palled. The animals have an incredible allure – I found them huge, charismatic, otherworldly. Cuddly and menacing, comic and melancholy, they are the Tony Soprano of mammals. Watching them for hours, as they cavorted, relaxed, munched kelp, and sparred gently with one another, I could never quite rid myself of the thought that I was looking at people wearing bear suits. There is something deeply uncanny about them: their size, idiosyncratic stiff-legged gait, huge paws, and oddly human five-toed footprints. The Inuit traditionally credited the nanuq, as they call them, with supernatural powers and, even today, Inuit hunters will avoid speaking about the polar bear, fearing its ability to overhear and understand distant human conversations. An entire industry has grown up around Churchill’s bears. The tundra buggies in which visitors view the animals are enormous and heated, built up high on huge axles, with viewing platforms at the rear. In October and November, mobile luxury hotels are stationed out in the tundra, like a strange combination of safari lodge and lunar base. In the luxurious isolation of the lodges, guests rub shoulders with scientists conducting research, make trips out on to the
Climate change is thought to be forcing polar bears inland for longer periods of the year – the result is lower body weights and a declining population Facing page: Churchill’s Halloween celebrations coincide with peak polar bear season, as this part of Hudson Bay is one of the first to ice over
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SEEKING POLAR BEARS IN CHURCHILL, CANADA In Inuit folklore, polar bears (nanuq) were humans when inside their own homes, only wearing bear hides when outside Facing page: 1. Churchill port is used to export Canadian grain to Europe 2. Churchill’s economy depends largely on the bears and visitors wishing to see them 3. A bear-proof dustbin 4. Polar bears had great cultural significance to Vonda McPherson’s Cree ancestors 5. Tundra buggies are kitted out with all mod cons, allowing close-up, safe views of the bears 6. An inukshuk – an Inuit navigational marker 7. Helicopters patrol the town and take visitors on bear-spotting safaris 8. Parks Canada warden Duane Collins
BOB’S TEAM RESPONDS TO THE CALL-OUTS AND SCARES THE ANIMALS OUT OF TOWN tundra, and return to dine on braised venison and Arctic char. I personally found the experience of living aboard for several days thrilling, but mildly claustrophobic. Watching the bears lope past the window of my bunk at night and in the early morning, I wondered if I were a participant on a bear safari, or the inmate of a human zoo.A massive logistical effort makes it possible for visitors to see polar bears in safety and comfort outside Churchill. Equal ingenuity is expended preventing them encountering polar bears while they’re in it. It’s broadly true to say that the polar bear is the largest predator on Earth – but the statement demands some qualification. Orcas, of course, are bigger, but aquatic. And some scientists suggest that it would be more accurate to think of polar bears as marine mammals. At the northern end of their range, polar bears are conceived, born and live their entire lives on the ice. The polar bears in the western Hudson Bay area are one of only two populations that spend their summers on land. As they are adapted to hunt from the ice, they pass the summer months in a state of ‘walking hibernation’, conserving energy, burning their stored fat, and waiting for the bay to freeze. Some might be lucky enough to find a beached seal. They can be resourceful, too: helicopter pilot Erik Polzin described to me how he’d watched a bear waiting for hours on a gradually submerging rock until it managed to entice a baby beluga whale into its paws.
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“He ripped its face off and ate it like a Slim Jim,” says Erik. But the polar bear is not simply an object of fear. On the streets of Churchill, I bump into Vonda McPherson who was walking her dog, Chocolate – a skittish half-husky, half-wolf. Vonda tells me she had First Nations Cree ancestry on both sides of her family, and her native forebears regarded the bear with awe and respect. “I know that in my culture the polar bear is seen as a guardian,” she explains. Churchill’s townsfolk are well-schooled in the dangers of living within range of these hungry predators. They don’t walk around alone at night. They avoid the cut-throughs between the low-slung prefabricated houses that make up the town. They stay well away from the beach, where the rocks and snow can easily conceal a lurking bear. The man with the orange hat was, almost certainly, a foolish – and lucky – visitor. The town has regular polar bear patrols, polar bear traps (long raised metal tubes baited with seal meat) and a polar bear hotline that residents are instructed to call at the first sign of a bear. Bob’s teams respond to the call-outs and scare the animals out of town, chasing them on foot and firing cracker shells or paint-ball ammunition to keep them on the move. Some bears require stronger deterrence. Stubborn recidivist bears get darted and taken off to polar bear jail – a gloomy, windowless hangar on the outskirts of the town. Here they’re
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kept in separate cells and given only water for 30 days. Once the time is up, or when the ice has formed, they’re carted out on to the bay by truck, or flown north by helicopter. On the day I met Bob, the jail – or polar bear holding centre, as it’s officially known – had 12 furry inmates. He categorically refused to let me go inside. “We don’t want the animals to get used to human beings, and it’s a question of liability. We had our last fatality in 1983, and that’s a record we want to stand for a long time.” Later that Halloween night, it is the adults’ turn to party. A bar called the Dark Side is full of locals in costume. People are marking the occasion with the enthusiasm you’d expect in a tiny town where not much happens. Half a dozen party-goers are dressed as Lego bricks, a very tall man has come as Death, there are several penguins, Wolverine, Indiana Jones, Storm Troopers, pirates, Waldo, the Cat in the Hat, but, interestingly, no polar bears. Erin Greene has come as the ballerina Nina Sayers from Black Swan. In 2013, she had come as Cyndi Lauper. On the way home from the party, she was attacked by a polar bear. “As he was running towards me, the first thought I had was, ‘Ah, he’s so cute!’,” Erin tells me. Petite and elfin, she displays no apparent injuries and retells the events with a smile, but it was a long convalescence. “The bear towered over me. I knew I was screwed. This was a bear that wanted to kill. I’ve done a lot of reading about it just to understand things and it says that when a bear is trying to kill someone they’re not interested in mauling, they just want to take your head off. That’s what he was trying to do to me.” The animal lifted Erin five feet off the ground by her head, while she swung punches at its face. Hearing her screams, a neighbour ran out of his house and fought the bear off with a shovel, sustaining serious injuries himself in the process. The bear didn’t flee until another neighbour got into his truck and charged it. Later that morning, Bob Windsor shot the animal dead. Both Erin and Bill Ayotte, the man who saved her life, still live in Churchill. “I think it’s good for people to see us,” says Erin.
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“If you love this town, and if you enjoy this town, you just have to keep going,” she tells me. “The first one that I saw afterward was by the bay. I still love them, I think they’re just a kind of magical creature, you know. They’re powerful, they’re beautiful. It’s hard to put into words, but, being that connected to that animal, I feel like I understand more about animals in general and what they have to go through, because I felt what it was like to be their prey and to fight for my life.” The 2013 Halloween attack was the town’s most serious for decades. Many people in Churchill work hard to make sure that Erin’s terrifying experience is never repeated. Standing in their way are the human tendencies to be cavalier or complacent – the orange hat phenomenon – the natural instincts of the polar bear, and, increasingly, climate change. A week after my conversation with Erin, winter is palpably closer. By November 5, the wind is howling. In the tundra beyond the town, the shallow ponds have iced over and bears are testing the thickness with their huge, tray-sized paws. Along the shoreline, grease ice is forming – the slush that precedes the proper freeze – but nothing that would support the weight of a bear. It is cold, but not yet cold enough. Out at the tundra buggy lodge, I meet the chief scientist of Polar Bears International, a man called Steven Amstrup. He’s studied in the Arctic all his life and tells me that, thanks to global warming, the bears are spending on average 30 days longer on land than they were 20 years ago. For Churchill, that might yet extend bear season beyond mid-November. It will also make Bob Windsor’s job appreciably harder. For Bob and the other residents of Churchill, the price of prosperity is constant vigilance.
is a writer, broadcaster and regular contributor to Lonely Planet Traveller.
marcel theroux
Polar bears must test the thickness of the ice with their huge, tray-sized paws before leaving Churchill Facing page: 1. A warning sign near the banks of Hudson Bay 2. Erin Greene survived a polar bear attack in 2013
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MAKE IT HAPPEN: CHURCHILL, CANADA Essentials
BEST TIME TO VISIT October and November are the best months to spot polar bears in Churchill.
GETTING THERE Air India, Cathay Pacific, United and Lufthansa fly frequently from all major Indian cities to Winnipeg, Canada, with a couple of layovers (return fares from ` 1,21,000). From Winnipeg, take the train (a two-day journey) via Rail Canada (www.viarail.ca/en/ explore-our-destinations/trains/ regional-trains/winnipegchurchill; one-way fare for economy coach seat from ` 21,000).
EMBASSY ALERT High Commission of India, Ottawa (Canada) www.hciottawa.gov.in CURRENCY 1 Canadian Dollar (CAD) = ` 53 ACCOMMODATION Churchill’s limited number of hotel rooms book up early in polar bear season, often a year in advance. Polar Inn & Suites (www.polarinn.com; standard guest rooms from ` 11,800) and Tundra Inn (www. tundrainn. com; from ` 11,100). FURTHER INFO: Lonely Planet’s Canada covers Churchill and Winnipeg in its Manitoba chapter (` 1,575) or simply download these PDFs online on www.lonely planet.com.
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TOUR OPERATORS
Most polar bear enthusiasts in Churchill come as part of an organised tour. Frontiers North Adventures (www. frontiersnorth.com) offers a range of trips to the area in polar bear season, from a one-day charter flight excursion from Winnipeg (from ` 68,500) to an 11-night tour that goes far out of town to Cape Churchill (from ` 5,22,500). Guests head out on a tundra buggy (pictured) to see the bears, and some tours include accommodation on the buggies, as well as in Churchill and Winnipeg.
POLAR BEAR SAFETY Polar bears are naturally curious, and agile considering their size. If travelling in polar bear country, you should read detailed advice on what to do if you encounter a bear unexpectedly. Your strategy should be different depending on whether the bear is unaware of your presence, curious, or actually aggressive, but you should keep movements slow except in the extreme event of an attack, and never try to run. For more information, do an online search for ‘you are in polar bear country’ to see the Parks Canada information leaflet (www.pc.gc.ca).
PHOTOGRAPHS: 4FR/GETTY, WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY, WERNER BOLLMAN/GETTY, GERRY ELLIS/MINDEN PICTURES/FLPA, IMAGEBROKER/FLPA, MLORENZ PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY, NATURE PL/SUPERSTOCK, STAN OSOLINSKI/GETTY, TIER UND NATURFOTOGRAFIE J UND C SOHNS/GETTY
VISA Indian travellers can apply for a visitors visa (also known as temporary resident visa) online (www.canada.ca/en/). The process generally take 12 to 15 days to process and costs around ` 5,300.
BEARS OF THE WORLD
Polar bears are the most northerly of the planet’s eight bear species. Discover more about its seven cousins, plus a couple of interlopers
SUN BEAR The smallest of the bears, these shy creatures live in the forests of Malaysia and other parts of Southeast Asia.
SLOTH BEAR India’s shaggy sloth bears use their long claws to dig termites out of mounds. Mothers carry cubs on their back more than other bears do.
ASIATIC BLACK BEAR Living in an arc between Iran and Japan, this species is distinguished from its American cousin by the paler crescent on its chest.
SPECTACLED BEAR The only bear species native to South America is best known as the inspiration for the Peruvianborn Paddington Bear.
GIANT PANDA The bear species at greatest risk of extinction, China’s pandas can eat meat but prefer nutrient-poor bamboo.
AMERICAN BLACK BEAR The most populous bear species (at 6,00,000 or more) lives in Canada, the USA and Mexico, and also comes in brown, blond or cinnamon hues.
BROWN BEAR Found in countries including Sweden, Italy, Turkey, Russia and China, this diverse species includes grizzly bears.
NOT A BEAR
Koalas (left) are marsupials, part of the same grouping as kangaroos. Any bear-like ccharacteristics present in this eucalyptus-munching Australian icon evolved separately. Zoologists once debated whether to group the red panda of the Himalayas (right) with bears or raccoons, but it’s now usually assigned to its own family, the Ailuridae.
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Stretch your legs on a fascinating heritage trail, and you’ll find yourself exploring an interactive museum on the move WHO SAYS YOU CAN’T TRAVEL BACK IN TIME? THERE IS A WAY, and all it takes is a pair of boots
EL MIRADOR HIKE, GUATEMALA Egyptians were not the only ancient people with a penchant for building in triangles: more than 7,000 miles away in Mesoamerica, pyramids dot the very opposite of a desert setting. Enough of the Guatemalan jungle has been cleared to reveal the temples of Tikal (pictured). Sunrise hikes in the forest here are a good way to test whether you’re ready for a greater challenge. The Maya centre of El Mirador, in remote northern Guatemala, is among the largest ever found by archaeologists. To reach it, you’ll need to trek for five or six days (return) in the dense jungle. A guide is essential, while most hikers also use a mule to transport supplies. Expect to trek more than 20 miles in a day and sleep in basic campgrounds. The view from La Danta, the largest of the pyramids at El Mirador, makes it worth all the sweat – it’s pure green as far as the eye can see. F Trek with an authorised guide at the Comisión de Turismo Cooperativa Carmelita Agency in Flores (www.turismocooperativa carmelita.com). February to June is the best period to attempt it.
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CHILKOOT TRAIL, USA & CANADA When three prospectors struck it lucky near the Klondike River in 1896, they sparked one of the greatest gold rushes ever. More than 1,00,000 others followed, hoping to make their own fortunes. But it was a tough journey, not least the final overland trudge from the Alaskan coast to the gold fields near Yukon’s Dawson City, crossing the USA-Canada border en route. Today, you can follow in those hardy stampeders’ boot-steps on the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail. From the trailhead at Dyea, the route winds through bear-inhabited forest, over creeks and via rusting gold-rush ruins. These are especially evident as the trail hits 1,067m Chilkoot Pass. Many prospectors gave up here, but it’s worth the effort. The trail finishes at quiet Lake Bennett. Once a teeming settlement, it’s now home to scraps of metal and the ghosts of prospectors past. F The Dyea trailhead is 10 miles from Skagway; private shuttles run the route. The walk should take between three and five days. Access Lake Bennett by train or floatplane (www.pc.gc.ca/en/ lhn-nhs/yt/chilkoot).
BERLIN WALL TRAIL, GERMANY The Berliner Mauerweg – or Berlin Wall Trail – is a chilling trek back to the Cold War. It follows the infamous barricade that, from 1961 to 1989, surrounded the democratic enclave of West Berlin, splitting a city, a nation and, essentially, a whole continent. The wall measured around 90 miles, slicing streets and squares, bisecting lakes and turning peaceful parks into ‘death zones‘. It’s sobering but fascinating to walk the line now. Easy-to-follow sections run via Potsdamer Platz, rejuvenated after it was flattened during WWII; the notorious Checkpoint Charlie border crossing; the graffiti-covered East Side Gallery, the longest remaining chunk of wall; the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer memorial; and via innumerable plaques that tell stories at the spots where escapes were attempted and, often, horribly thwarted. F The trail is divided into 14 sections of between about four miles and 13 miles. Walking the whole 90-mile route will take 10–14 days. Each section is served by public transport (www.berlin. de/mauer/en).
PHOTOGRAPH: JUSTIN FOULKES
and an open mind. Walking is as ancient as the earliest hominids, and by opting for person-power over planes, trains and automobiles, we can view the world at a soak-it-all-in pace. Granted, in some places, the surroundings may have changed, but the kernel of connection remains: you’re shadowing soldiers, pioneers and pilgrims of the past. Wherever you walk, there’s history to be found. Noting the strata of crumpled cliffs, the remains of once-mighty castles or the shadows of overgrown trenches can take us back to the beginning of geological time or the horrors of past wars; it makes us question the world around us and our own tiny place in it. Next time you set off, look closely at the furrows and hummocks, the seemingly out-of-place boulders and the crumbling ruins, and question who might have stood where you stand, centuries or millennia before.
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Experience India like you’ve never done before from the comfort of a luxurious cabin on wheels. All aboard! ARRIVING IN STYLE. That’s what luxury trains promise. Certainly, this has got to be one of the most
exciting ways to travel and experience India. These high-end hotels on the rails have just the right blend of charm from a bygone era with extravagant touches of luxury and everything modern to match your taste and style. 3,000km, Deluxe cabin from ` 3,63,300/ single occupancy. MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESS Considered by many to be the best among the luxury trains in India, the Maharajas’ Express was introduced by the Indian Railways Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC). The train only offers services between the busy months of October to April. You can pick from four routes, which include experiences such as a visit to the Taj Mahal, an exciting safari drive through Ranthambore National Park, and a boat ride on Lake Pichola followed by a visit to the City Palace and Crystal Gallery in Udaipur.
) www.the-maharajas.com; The Indian Splendour Tour (6 nights/ 7 days), covering around 2,724km, Deluxe cabin from ` 3,21,210/ single occupancy. DECCAN ODYSSEY Inspired by The Palace on Wheels model, the Deccan Odyssey (pictured below and right) was launched to boost tourism in Maharashtra. From World Heritage sites and forts and palaces to an array of cultural experiences, you can select one of six great rail journeys crafted for you. ) www.deccan-odyssey-india. com; 7 nights/ 8 days tour: Deluxe cabin from from ` 4,71,380/ single occupancy THE GOLDEN CHARIOT Launched way back in 2008, The Golden Chariot still remains a favourite when it comes to experiencing offbeat locales in South India. The two unique itineraries (Pride of South and Southern Splendour offer a glimpse into the culture of the southern states Karnataka, Goa, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Your itinerary takes you past beautiful temples and palaces, little-known beaches, teeming wildlife sanctuaries and the calming backwaters of South India. ) www.goldenchariot.com; 7 nights/ 8 days tour: Deluxe cabin from ` 2,45,000/ single occupancy.
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WORDS: AMIT GAIKWAD PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISHNA PRABAKAR T
THE PALACE ON WHEELS Back with a bang, The Palace on Wheels was recently voted the fourth most luxurious train in the world. True to its name, its coaches come with everything you would expect in a palace – great service, spacious cabins, grand interiors dressed up in elegant wallpaper, and a well-stocked bar. The train sets off for Rajasthan from New Delhi and takes you on a scenic route through Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bharatpur, and Agra before finishing its journey back in New Delhi. ) www.palaceonwheels.com; The Palace on Wheels Train Tour (7 nights/ 8 days), covering over
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Dodge peak times and you’ll see a wholly different side to popular destinations ANYONE WHO HAS TRAVELLED DURING PEAK HOLIDAY TIMES KNOWS THE PITFALLS only too well:
GO ON SAFARI It’s a myth that peak-season safaris are best for wildlife spotting. Take South Africa as an example. Low season runs from May to September, the country’s winter, which means prices dip. But this is also the dry season in national parks such as Kruger, when the thinned-out bush makes it much easier to spot the resident elephants, hippos, lions, rhinos, zebra and leopards. ) Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (KMI) is the gateway. For more information on the park, see www.sanparks. org/parks/kruger. TRAVEL IN THE MONSOON Sudden rains lend an abundant beauty to much of South and Southeast Asia during the monsoon season, which lasts roughly from June to September. Monsoon doesn’t mean solid rain all day long – showers tend to come and go, and temperatures are often still warm. The benefits of travelling at this time include lower room rates (sometimes discounted by half) and fewer crowds at major sites.
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Just be sure to pack waterproofs. ) You can snag excellent deals to countries such as the Maldives during monsoon times (www.skyscanner.net). BEACH IT IN EUROPE Many of us have been on a beach with barely an inch of towel space in summer, from Mallorca to the Greek Islands. Italian beaches heave in August, when the whole country flocks en masse to the spiaggia. Go in spring or autumn, when it’s just about warm enough to flop on the sand, and you get the added bonuses of seasonal colour, as well as ideal conditions for coastal hiking and biking, and lower rates. ) Winter blues? The ere are European islands where the weather remains fine long into the darker months – and not jusst the Canaries. Try Malta, M Madeira or Sicily. EXPERIENCE PO OLAR NIGHT It’s dark, for sure, b but the
Arctic North is a magical and otherworldly place to visit during midwinter polar night, when the sun never rises above the horizon and the sky never brightens beyond a deep ‘midnight’ blue. Come for wizard-wand Northern Lights action, husky-sledding and spectacular icescapes. ) A pre-winter season break to Iceland in November will beat the crowds. Aurora activity is frequent in Reykjavík, a great jumping-off point. Arctic Adventures runs a four-hour Northern Lights Explorer from September to April (www.adventures.is; from ` 10,150/ person).
PHOTOGRAPHS: DHAVAL DHAIRYAWAN; UTOPIA88/123RF (ELEPHANT)
overcrowded airports and stop-start motorways, sky-high flight prices and exorbitant room rates, packed beaches and rammed cities, colossal queues for museums and landmarks. It’s also no secret that some of the world’s most amazing destinations are feeling the tourism squeeze. But that’s no reason to stay put; you just need to get strategic about where to go and when. Embracing the off-season is one such game plan. Beyond the obvious perks of cheaper accommodation and flights, many destinations come into their own in the low and shoulder seasons, without the nerve-fraying hordes detracting from their charms and authenticity. If you do your research, you can apply this approach to pretty much anywhere. Paris is indeed lovable in April. The Taj Mahal sees crowds thin in September, at the tail end of the monsoon and just before the high-season rush. Italy’s cultural mother-lode cities — Rome, Venice and Florence, heave and swelter in summer, but they can be glorious on a crisp November day. Then, there are the honeymoon favourites – the Caribbean islands, the Maldives and Mauritius, where the risk of the odd shower in the low season is a small price to pay for comparatively great deals and blissfully empty beaches.
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A fear of heights needn’t hold you back on your travels. Choose the right challenge and start small to enjoy thrills and views IF STANDING ON THE EDGE OF A SHEER PRECIPICE AND PEERING DOWN INTO THE VOID CHILLS
your blood, or makes you break out in a cold sweat, you are not alone. That razor-sharp edge and gaping space below might give us an adrenaline rush, just not an enjoyable one. The trembling knees, the dizziness, the skip-a-beat heart, the relentless gut-churning, the sweaty palms – it’s all very, very real, and it’s not going away until you make it back down alive, in one piece. But it’s possible to get the ‘height buzz’ that others rave about without risking life and limb. You might never make it to the top of Everest, but, with a rope and well-secured carabiner or an experienced guide, you could perhaps flirt with mountaineering on a via ferrata, or canyon down a waterfall. If that sounds too intrepid, there are other challenges to haul you that bit higher: from treetop walkways and suspension bridges spanning gorges to city skyscraper lookouts, cable-car rides in the Alps, great glass elevators and high-level hikes that stick well away from the edge. Scenic flights are another way to get the views without all the brow-wiping phews. Challenge yourself on your travels by beginning at the right level, build up confidence gradually, and you’ll soon look down, but never back.
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN GREGSON
VIA FERRATA, MÜRREN, SWITZERLAND Before ruling rock climbing out entirely, consider a via ferrata (fixed rope route) – giving you the intrepid buzz and sensational views without the risk, thanks to a clipped-on carabiner. Head to the via ferrata in Mürren, in central Switzerland’s lovely Jungfrau region. From June to October, the 1.4-mile trail offers head-spinning highs on cables, ladders and a suspension bridge with arresting views of the glacier- streaked Eiger’s north face. F Klettersteig Mürren can arrange the activity (www.klettersteigmuerren.ch; ` 10,150/ person as part of a group of four to eight). BURJ KHALIFA, DUBAI, THE UAE Manmade structures (with solid ground beneath your feet) can be a non-nail-biting way to get high up enough to confront your fear. High-rise observation decks poke out above some of the world’s metropolises and afford
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dizzying views of the cityscape through glass walls or, in some cases, floors. Why not go straight up the world’s tallest building? Dubai’s needle-thin Burj Khalifa pierces the sky at 828m. F Rise to Burj Khalifa’s levels 124 and 125 on a self-guided visit. Book in advance online (www. burjkhalifa.ae; from ` 3,050).
natural event, with calving season taking place in the Serengeti between January and mid-March. The wildebeest migration starts to head towards the western Serengeti in May or June. F It’s not cheap but, hey, you are floating over the Serengeti (www.balloonsafaris.com; from ` 33,175/ person).
HOT-AIR BALLOONING, SERENGETI, TANZANIA A pilot guides the hot-air balloon ever upward, and the height barely registers as you focus on the landscape unfolding (pictured). Throw in a little wildlife on a ride over the Serengeti and you’ll be so absorbed by the view below, you’ll have forgotten any fear. Hop on at dawn for a glimpse of zebra, elephants, giraffes, lions and cheetahs. Flights are year-round, but are most spectacular during the wildebeest migration. The precise timing of the annual wildebeest migration depends on the rains. It is a very unpredictable and spontaneous
SKYWALK, GRAND CANYON, THE USA With something to cling to firmly, an above-the-treetops suspension bridge, a glass walkway or a hanging bridge can all be fun ways to confront nervousness about heights without any danger. For a true sense of the monstrous scale of the Grand Canyon’s West Rim, you can walk on glass 1,200m above it on the Skywalk at Eagle Point. And do rest assured: this glass-floored, horseshoe-shaped walkway can withstand the weight of 70 Boeing 747 passenger jets. F www.grandcanyonwest.com; tickets from ` 4,800. wwwwgrandcanyonwest.com.
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Between shrines and onsens, there’s a reason Tohoku in Japan has made it to Lonely Planet’s top 10 regions to visit in 2020. Aurelia Fernandes takes on this stunning region to discover just that WORDS: AURELIA FERNANDES
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“Japan gets really hot in the summer…” my guide Umeko san trails off, looking at me sympathetically as I root about in my backpack in search of another wet wipe. “I am very sorry about the weather.” I smile at her, having lost track of how many times she’s apologised for the weather since we met earlier this morning. I assure her that Mumbai is just as hot and humid, so this weather doesn’t faze me at all. If anything, it makes me feel at home. In all honesty, though, the sweltering August heat is probably the only thing that Tokyo and Mumbai have in common, so, right then, the Japanese capital has my undivided attention. And, sadly, I have barely 12 hours here. While the rest of my itinerary looks immensely promising, I’m bummed out over my measly amount of time in Tokyo. Like most people who’ve been to Japan or find themselves planning a trip, Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka (the golden trio) have always taken top spots on my bucket list. Tokyo, to me, is the ultimate metropolitan city, home to all things tech, anime and fashion. Kyoto, on the other hand, is steeped in history and culture, with art running through its veins. And, finally, there’s Osaka, Japan’s gastronomical capital and home to Toyo, the star of the Japan episode of Street Food on Netflix (a show definitely worth checking out if you haven’t yet already). In a country that has these big league players, what does the Tohoku region have to offer? Other than Miyagi and Akita, two cities I am familiar with thanks to their food, the rest of the region is uncharted territory for me.
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TAKING ON
TOKYO “We’ve arrived!” Saori san, one of our hosts, announces. As we make our way off the bus, I find myself in Odaiba, an artificial island in Tokyo Bay. Home to the Tokyo Big Sight, a popular convention centre, the rainbow bridge and a replica of Lady Liberty (it’s Japan, why wouldn’t there be a replica of the Statue of Liberty?), Odaiba has the reputation of being a high-tech entertainment hub of sorts. But imitation statues and Mario kart references aside, we are here to see one of Odaiba’s most-loved attractions – teamLabs Borderless. Opened in 2018 in the MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM, teamLab Borderless is a digital art collective that views itself as a group of digital artists. In this dedicated space in Odaiba, teamLabs Borderless showcases its stunning visual work, creating terrifically complex and interactive digital installations. The envy on the faces of other visitors around us is evident – teamLab Borderless tickets are not easy to come by; it requires booking well in advance if you intend to see this stunning museum and, believe me, you should. Your instagram profile will thank you (00−81−3−63684292; www.borderless.teamlab.art; Odaiba Palette Town, 1−3−8 Aomi, Koto-ku; 10am – 7pm, 10am – 9pm Sat – Sun & holidays). After the visual delight that is teamLab Borderless, we make our way to Gonpachi, a restaurant located in AQUA CiTY , a waterfront mall. The first thing that catches my eye when we enter is a wall lined with celebrity photos. After a few minutes of squinting at the photos, I realise exactly where I am – this is the Gonpachi, where the infamous (and pretty epic) fight scene between Uma Thurman and Lucy Lui was shot in Kill Bill. Although that was shot at the Roppongi branch,
the brand is still the same. And, if it was good enough for O-Ren Ishii and the Crazy 88s, it sure is good enough for me (00−81−3−3599−4807; www.gonpachi.jp/odaiba, www. yoyaku.toreta.in/gonpachi-odaiba/#/; Aqua City, Odaiba 4F, 1−7−1 Daiba, Minato-ku; 11.30am – 3.30am, lunch: 11.30am – 3pm, last order: 3am; mains from ` 500). After a relatively peaceful lunch, marked by the absence of assassins, we make our way to the Railway Museum. Having gotten off an eight-hour flight and then jumping straight into my itinerary, I can feel the tiredness kicking in. While I have a special love for museums and a notorious reputation for ending up with museum fatigue, I’m not quite sure what to expect from a “railway museum”. I figure a museum of this sort would only appeal to people who are really into locomotives, but I decide to keep an open mind, even though I can’t vouch for my sleepy eyes. As we make our way into the museum, I find myself doing a double take – it looks nothing like a museum, let alone one about trains. I expect to see a few dioramas, a couple of train models and a carriage or two at best. What I’m greeted by is full-scale coaches that were once in active service, all pristinely maintained. We walk around admiring these mammoth masterpieces before stepping outside. I notice a group of excited people, a mix of children and adults, all holding on to flags, peering over the fence in anticipation. “We will now see the Shiki-shima pass by!” Umeko san announces. Are we seriously gathered around to see a train while in a train museum? “It’s the most expensive passenger train in Japan,” Umeko san continues, addressing the confusion clearly visible on my face. “It goes on a 10-day journey that takes you to different parts of the country; tickets can cost up to 1 million yen!” One million yen for a train ride? For some wild reason, my mind goes to my “first-class” local train pass, sitting in my wallet. “The train passes by every Thursday at 4.40pm. It’s almost a tradition for people to wave at the train and for the passengers to wave back.” As if on cue, we see the sleek train pass us by, with the passengers inside holding a banner against its large glass windows, which says “Thank you”. We wave our flags back at them excitedly, before heading back inside, to the simulation room, to try our hand at driving a train. Japan has a history of minimum train accidents and I’m not ready to tarnish that, even if it is just a simulation. Sitting in the shinkansen (bullet train) simulator, I don’t do too badly – for someone who has to press a start and stop button.Our simulation session ends with me receiving a certificate of completion and, as far as I’m concerned, “driving a Japanese train” goes onto the list of things I’ve achieved so far – the simulation part makes up the fine print (00−81−4−8651−0088; www.railway-museum.jp; Saitama, Omiya Ward, Onaricho; 10am – 6pm, Tues closed).
EXPLORING TOHOKU, JAPAN
Omikujis can be found at
shrines and temples all over the country, dishing out fortunes
OF LUCK AND LEGENDS IN
PHOTOGRAPH: PIXHOUND, MTAIRA/ 123RF
MATSUSHIMA
Above: The inner sanctom of the Godaido Temple houses the five Buddhas of wisdom Facing page: The Railway Museum is sure to turn you into a train buff by the end of your visit
“When the tsunami struck Japan in 2011, Matsushima really bore the brunt of it,” Umeko san tells us, as we make our way to Matsushima Bay. “But the locals here are very resilient; they’ve built everything back again. You can’t really see the after effects of the destruction, but the people remember.” We board a tiny little cruise-ship of sorts, with an inner cabin styled to imitate traditional Japanese floor seating. I find myself hanging out in the cabin for barely a couple of minutes – the back of the boat seems far more interesting. There’s a tiny open deck with just enough seating for three people. Perching myself on the side of the boat, I brace myself – the last thing I want is to make a splash in Matsushima Bay. That worry is quickly forgotten once I feel the cool breeze (a pleasant change from the otherwise humid weather) whip at my hair. All of this makes the perfect setting for a profound chain of thought – everywhere I look, I am greeted by cliffs rising out of azure waters, with sprays of emerald shrubbery on top. I sit there, with a feeling of unease that has nothing to do with my now-wet shoes. I’m convinced I’ve definitely seen this scene before. I’ve never visited Matsushima before, but here I’m sure I have.
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1. The Godaido Temple dates back to 807, and was reconstructed in 1604 by feudal lord Date Masamune 2. Entsuin and the Zuiganji Temple are located in the same complex, which also houses meditation caves 3. Matsushima Bay is famous for its oysters – don’t be surprised if you find yourself slurping down a plate or two Facing page: Matsushima Bay is best enjoyed on a bright and sunny day
The streets lined with oyster shacks and sellers of meat skewers don’t make it any easier on your senses
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“That cliff is known as Kappa Mountain,” I hear Saori san say from inside the cabin. “If you look carefully, you can see the shape of a kappa, complete with its long nose.” A mythical Japanese creature, a kappa is depicted as a humanoid amphibian of sorts. Although I can’t quite see the shape of the kappa on the cliff, I can see why mythical creatures would be associated with a place like Matsushima Bay – it almost looks like a scene that is painted. It is then that I realise it has been painted, time and again. Tall cliffs shrouded in weeping willows are a favourite among sumi-e (ink wash) artists, and I am beginning to see why. If left alone out here, anyone would be inspired to recreate this scenic view (00-81-225-88-3997; www.okumatsusima.jp/pleasure_boat.html; office: 8.30am – 5pm; boat ride: 8.30am – 3pm [Oct – March], 4pm [April – Sept]; fee: ` 1,300 ). If you aren’t too keen on getting onto the water, don’t worry: there are plenty of ways to enjoy Matsushima Bay. One of the easiest is by visiting the Godaido Temple, founded in 807. As we approach the shrine, I can’t help but think that it looks like every other temple I’ve seen up until now, save for the red bridge. “Please watch your step!” Umeko san calls out, as we trot across this rather odd bridge, which has spaces between the planks, a fairly unusual feature. Turns out the planks are there for a reason – if you trip on the bridge, it’s a sign that you’re not ready to visit the temple. Having made it successfully across, I walk around and spot an omikuji machine. Little fortune-vending machines, omikujis can be found at shrines and temples all over the country, dishing out fortunes that range from “great blessings” to “great curses”. Feeling confident about conquering Godaido’s red bridge, I pop the required yen into the machine and await my fortune. Unravelling the paper, I stare at it blankly – of course, it’s all in Japanese. Fortunately, Saori san comes to my rescue. “It says you have great blessing!” She beams, I frown. There’s a flip side to receiving a good luck fortune in Japan – it implies that your luck can only get bad here on. Saori san laughs when I explain my concern. “Well, you’re not wrong, people often do believe that. It’s why they tie their fortune to the shrines, in the hope that it’ll stay great or get better. But you can also take it home – it’s like taking your luck with you.” I stare at the little piece of paper, particularly at the section that mentions that I will travel more. At least that’s what Saori san says, and, for obvious reasons, I’ve decided to believe her whole-heartedly. It’s hard not to get hungry while walking down the streets of Matsushima. While the walk itself lets you work up quite an appetite, the streets lined with oyster shacks and sellers of meat skewers don’t make it any easier on your senses. In the mood for a bit of surf with a side of turf, I find it remarkably hard to stay on track, invoking divine intervention to keep me focused.
PHOTOGRAPH: LEUNG CHO PAN, SHAWNCCF, KHOMSAN PONGSATHAPORN, NOSONJAI/ 123RF
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Walking up to Entsuin Temple, we’re greeted by a simple path, lined with neatly-trimmed trees. “When the tsunami hit, all of Matsushima was under water,” Umeko san tells us, while marvelling at her surroundings too. “It is said that water came up to the Entsuin Temple too, submerging the path. But, when it came to the main entrance of the temple complex, it stopped. This temple was the only monument that wasn’t affected by the tsunami.” The temple stands tall and defiant, reminding us that it will probably still be here, long after we’ve gone . We walk in and are led to a little seating area, where a few temple guides join us. “The temple lets you make your own prayer bead bracelet,” Umeko san explains, gesturing at a box filled with multicoloured beads as we all sit on the tatami (traditional Japanese mat floors). “Each bead signifies an element you’d like to have in your life. Some beads stand for love, some for health, and so on.” So, a lucky charm bracelet of sorts? I’m convinced that this could probably fix my dwindling luck problem, courtesy the omikuji at Godaido. “Your mind, heart and soul know what you need. So, while making the rosary, you won’t be informed about what each bead signifies; you need to make it intuitively. Once you’re done, the temple guides will tell you your rosary’s significance.” Once all the beads are strung, the temple guide swiftly seals the bracelet. As I fiddle with it, I am interrupted by a bellow; Mr Irokawa Haruo, a member of the temple staff, invites us to join him on a walk around the complex. We make our way to the mausoleum of Date Mitsumune’s (the grandson of Date Masamune), located on the temple grounds. The mausoleum, which houses a statue of the young lord,
is surrounded by the graves of his followers, who committed suicide when he died. “The Date clan was intrigued by Christianity and western motifs. It is why the inner shrine in this mausoleum has imagery of cards, crosses and even the oldest Japanese artwork of a rose.” He points out motifs, inviting us to look inside, even though we aren’t allowed to enter. “This curiosity was not appreciated however, so the shrine was locked up and almost hidden to prevent its destruction.” We walk towards the entrance; I try to match his short but quick steps, while looking around at the temple’s stunning foliage, which is slowly turning a deep shade of red. “Autumn here is really lovely,” he says, as if picking up on my train of thought. I know, looking at the already red maple leaves that line my path, that it must be. Walking past the stone caves of Entsuin on my way out, I’m reminded that there is definitely something mystical about this temple, and the feeling lingers long after we’ve left its grounds (00-22-3543206; www.entuuin.or.jp; 981-0213,67, Matsushima Aza Chonai, Matsushima-machi, Miyagi Pref; 8.30am – 5pm [April – Oct], until 4pm [Nov] ,9am – 4pm [Dec – March]; rosary making from ` 650 onwards, booking required). Tohoku’s claim to fame has always been its hot springs (among other things). Hopping back into our mini bus for the umpteenth time that day, I am more than ready to slip into a hot spring and let it work its magic. Then comes the dreaded question: “Are you okay with a public bath?” The rules at an onsen are as clear as day: you enter in your birthday suit with a small wash cloth. You scrub yourself down well before entering the spring and exit when you’re done. As long as you don’t mind the company, you’re golden. Turns out, like most people, I do mind the company. Iffy about whether I want to give the onsen a go or opt for the private bath, I dither until we reach the Yuzukushi Salon Ichinobo Sakunami Onsen (www.ichinobo.com; Miyagi, Sendai, Aoba Ward; from ` 11,500). A beautiful onsen, with traditionally-styled rooms and a hot spring, I know what I have to do. My game plan is simple: if I go late enough, it’s sure to be empty. My gamble pays off, I have the whole onsen to myself – or so I think until I notice a fellow guest. It’s evident I’m the least of her concerns. Taking a cue, I let myself relax, making the most of the hot spring. I step out knowing that regular baths are now officially ruined for me.
FLOATING THROUGH
SHINJO-CITY Nothing wakes you up quite like a cup of hot coffee. Turns out, whiskey on the rocks is a close second. Heading out of Ichinobo, none of us had quite anticipated our first pit stop for the day would be the Miyagikyo Distillery. Home to Nikka Whiskey, the iconic red brick distillery was built in 1969 and has been a favourite with visitors and locals since. The tour is rather standard: a walk through the brewing area, complete with a quick history lesson. The highlight, however, has to be the tasting at the end, where you can try Nikka’s Apple Wine, Rare Old Super and Single Malt Miyagikyo. After an interesting sweet start to our morning, we are back on the road, ready to tuck into lunch. Which, Umeko san informs us, we have to earn. Walking into Mokuzoshiki No Ie, we aren’t quite sure what to expect, other than a soba noodle workshop (00-81-233-22-2111; 996-0001, Yamagata, Shinjo, Itsukamachi, 5919-3; April – Nov; reservation required, travelling with a translator is reccomended). It isn’t until we meet our sensei (teacher), Satou san, that we learn it is more of a master class. Satou san, who has been making noodles for years now, gives us a quick history lesson before we get our hands dirty. “People often think buckwheat noodles are Japanese, but they are not,” he reveals. “Having made them for so many years, I felt the need to educate myself about this dish, in order to make it right.” He helps us prep our stations, and painstakingly shows us how to handle the rather large knife and how to knead the dough just right. I dive into the action, secretly determined to make mine look like the best of the lot, but my skills fall extremely short, reminding me of my grasshopper status.
The floats at the Shinjo Festival are as elaborate as they can get Facing page: 1. Being a part of the float’s entourage is no easy feat – if anything, it’s a workout 2. The key to making soba noodles is kneading them just right
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Satou san is encouraging nonetheless, assuring me that I have done well. Nodding solemnly, I remind myself that the proof is in the pudding. When my steamed noodles make their way to the table, I convince myself that they aren’t quite shabby to begin with. Until Satou san’s handmade batch arrives. I gawk at the plate, each strand of dough kneaded and cut to perfection. Satou san can’t help but laugh. “Soba should always be made with love, that’s all that counts!” he reminds me, as I bite into my wiggly mess of a noodle. There is some truth to his words though, because, even though my batch look like udon noodles’ chubbier cousin, there isn’t a single strand left behind at the end of the meal. At first glance, Shinjo-City seems like a rather unassuming city, sleepy even. Bereft of high-rise buildings and throngs of people, especially tourists, Shinjo doesn’t exactly live up to its “Japanese city” image. Or so I think. Stepping into the streets, I can’t help but notice the excitement on the faces of our hosts – we are, very obviously, in for something fun. It isn’t long until we’re joined by Yoichiro Inoue san, the chairman of the Shinjo Chamber of Commerce and Industry. “The Shinjo Festival has been celebrated for 263 years now,” he tells us, in an impromptu history lesson. “The farmers back then kept having a run of bad harvests. There was a lot of disease and death too. It was a rather dark period in Shinjo’s history. Then, a lord decided to have this festival, in order to boost the people’s morale. Over the years, it has become a part of the city’s fabric and is recognised by UNESCO as an event of intangible cultural heritage. It is truly one of the greatest festivals of Japan.” The format of the festival is simple enough: 20 floats are created by 20 districts within Shinjo-City, usually depicting famous scenes from Kabuki (classical Japanese dance drama) or off historic scrolls. Then comes a three-day celebration, during which these giant floats are paraded through Shinjo-City and judged. The winning float earns a permanent exhibit spot at the Shinjo-City station for a year. What makes the festival truly exciting, I’m told, is the camaraderie and the competitiveness, and the fact that the city gets a three-day holiday. As we walk down the street, I notice that the once quiet neighbourhood is now abuzz with activity, with stalls set up and prepped. The countdown has begun. “We’ll meet at this spot,” Umeko san signals us. “Do explore the streets, but come back quickly; we have an important job!” She offers no more information to aid us. An important job? Right now, the only important job is grabbing a plate of takoyaki that has my name on it. Doughy stuffed octopus in hand, I wander around, marvelling at the traditional Japanese fair set-up, complete with goldfish scooping and crepes stalls. Making my way back to our
meeting point, I am given a bright red haori, a traditional Japanese jacket. “We’re going to be a part of the festival!” Umeko san announces happily. “We’ll be helping to pull the floats.” I’m a little confused. How exactly am I supposed to help again? Before I can ask any questions, I find a thick rope in my hands, attached to a massive float, complete with dramatic mannequins all dressed up playing out a historic scene. And, just like that, we’re hauling Shin Matsumoto district’s float down the street, along with its residents. My confusion is drowned out by my new colleagues chanting – turns out, each district has its own catchy little jingle of sorts. They seem more than happy to have us around, enthusiastically encouraging us to be part of their selfies while teaching us the chant. The excitement is contagious and, soon, I find myself participating wholeheartedly. We are then ushered to our seats, in order to enjoy the parade (and to let Shin Matsumoto do their thing). Watching these elaborate floats go by, I can’t help but think - Shin Matsumoto deserves to win, hands down. My vote is probably biased – but, as a self-proclaimed honorary citizen, they have my loyalty. The Shinjo Festival ends with just as much energy as it began. The air is electric, filled with people’s laughter. We notice one of the senseis from our soba class earlier. He’s just as excited to see us as we are to see him. Walking back to our minibus, I reflect the Shinjo Festival proves that it still does what it did all those years ago – bring people, even strangers like us, closer together in the most unlikely way (www.shinjo-matsuri.jp; Aug 24 – 26). plans on visiting the Kii Peninsula on her next visit to Japan. Her trip was supported by the Japan National Tourism Organisation (JNTO).
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MAKE IT HAPPEN: TOHOKU, JAPAN Essentials BEST TIME TO VISIT If you want to be a part of the festivities and don’t mind sultry weather, August is the best time to visit Tohoku. This region is also particularly stunning during the autumn and winter months of October to November and December to February, respectively. GETTING THERE All Nippon Airways flies directly to Tokyo’s Narita International Airport from all major Indian cities (return fares from ` 36,000). GETTING AROUND Japan Rail (JR) Passes are easy to use, allowing you to explore the region you’re in. Opt for the JR East Pass, which gives you access to shinkansens, JR trains and JR buses in Tohoku (www. jreast.co.jp/e/eastpass_t; ` 12,380 for 5 days/ adult, ` 6,500/ child).
CURRENCY 1 YEN = ` 0.65 EMBASSY ALERT Embassy of India, Tokyo, Japan www.indembassy-tokyo.gov.in VEG OUT Get your veggie fix at T's TanTan S-Pal Sendai, a vegan restaurant located inside Sendai Station. The restaurant is famous for its tonkotsu and shouyu (soy sauce) ramen (00-81-22-721-6527; www.nre. co.jp/shop/tabid/223/stoid/693/ brnid/12/Default.aspx; S-PAL Sendai Main Building, Miyagi; 10am – 10pm; tonkotsu/ shouyu ramen: ` 520).
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STAY Located in Sendai Station itself, the centrally-located Hotel Metropolitan Sendai JR-East gives you direct access to the station itself, which is practically an ecosystem in itself, with a full-scale shopping arcade and restaurants (00-81-22268-2525; www.sendai-eastmetropolitan.jp/en; 1-1-1 Chuo, Aoba-ku Sendai City, Miyagi; from ` 8,000). For easy access to all of Akita’s great sights and sounds, opt for the Hotel Metropolitan Akita JR-East. The rooms here come with a pamphlet that highlights the area’s best pubs, so brace yourself for a fun night out (00-81-18-831-2222; www.akita.metropolitan.jp; 7, Chome-2-1 Nakadori, Akita; from ` 5,000).
PUPPY LOVE
Akita is loved for many reasons, but, if you had to pick just two, the choice is easy: its fantastic nightlife and its most adorable native, the Akita inu. A slighter daintier version of the Shiba inu (the doggo behind the doge meme), Akitas are a naturally handsome breed. You’d think the city would be more excited about them, but Akita doesn’t let on – until you step into the train station. From shirts to stuffed toys, sweets and a giant plush toy, the city has this adorable breed’s face plastered on everything. And the best part: it’s so cute that you don’t even mind.
SIDE TRIP If you find yourself in Akita, make the most of your day and your JR East pass by hopping aboard a Resort Shirakami, a sightseeing train. Travel down the Gono Line – a 147.2km track that connects the Higashi-Noshiro in the Akita Prefecture to Kawabe Station in the Aomori Prefecture. The Gono Line offers stunning views of the sea and the Shirakami-Sanchi area (00-81-50-2016-1603; www. jreast.co.jp/e/joyful/shirakami.html; www.jreast.co.jp/multi/pass/index. html; reservation required).
PHOTOGRAPH: KMG123 / 123RF (RESORT SHIRAKAMI)
VISA A short-stay visa to Japan takes three working days to process (www.vfsglobal.com; ` 510).
A new year tradition in Akita, the Namahage is supposed to be a frightful creature, one that gets kids for their bad behaviour
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On a planet plagued by light pollution, it takes effort to evade the tangerine glow of urban centres. But, if you can, you’ll reap a rich reward: the full majesty of the night sky THERE IS MAGIC IN STANDING OUTSIDE UNDER A BLANKET OF STARS – but it’s becoming
CHACO CANYON NATIONAL PARK, NEW MEXICO, THE USA Between the 10th and 12th centuries, a remarkable culture, now called the Ancestral Puebloan, built a series of stone forts along lines corresponding to the night sky in what is now remote northwestern New Mexico. They appear to have been abandoned during a 50-year drought, but these structures remained the biggest ever built in what is now the USA until the 19th century. Accessible by dirt roads, Chaco Canyon is a designated dark-sky park with an observatory and stargazing events.
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F Albuquerque airport is 150 miles away; from there, you’ll need your own car. Heritage Inspirations runs glamping tours (www. heritageinspirations.com; from ` 1,00,100/person). AORAKI MACKENZIE DARK SKY RESERVE, NEW ZEALAND Centring on New Zealand’s highest peak, Mt Cook, the world’s largest dark-sky park covers a remote swathe of the South Island. The views of the night skies from here (pictured rigth) are unequalled in New Zealand, and, as it is the only dark-sky reserve in the southern
hemisphere, are unique in the world. There are two observatories, and several tours get you off the beaten track for either naked-eye or observatory stargazing. F Mt John Observatory is a three-hours‘ drive from Christchurch; stay in Lake Tekapo village. Dark Sky Project, formerly known as the Earth and Sky, runs tours that include telescope-based observation (www.earthandsky.co.nz; from ` 3,200/ person). LA PALMA, CANARY ISLANDS, SPAIN The whole island of La Palma is a starlight reserve and is home to the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory (pictured left), which has some of the largest telescopes in the northern hemisphere. With the island off the west coast of Africa and the observatory at 2,400m, visibility is particularly good. There are walks designed for night-hiking, with stargazing viewpoints along the way. F The observatory is open in the day only; hiking trails are open all year round. Stay in nearby Garafía (www.starsislandlapalma.es).
PHOTOGRAPHS: RASDI ABDUL RAHMAN/GETTY IMAGES (NZ), GUILLERMO AVELLO/ 123RF (SPAIN)
more difficult to experience. According to research conducted by the Light Pollution Science and Technology Institute, 80 per cent of the Earth’s landmass is affected by light pollution. Perspective-seekers must put in a bit of work to reach places dark enough to see the cosmos in its glimmering splendour. Several national governments and organisations, such as the International Dark Sky Association, have begun awarding designations to places which are working to preserve the quality of their dark skies. But all the dark sky-friendly that LED lighting in the world can’t fix the lingering horizon-glow from a nearby city. To really get dark, you need to seek out, travel to or even hike your way to the remotest corners of the planet. And, once at your destination, you might need to overcome extreme weather and wild terrain. But stargazing has the side benefits of developing your patience and concentration. A digital detox is also obligatory: for the human eye to take in small amounts of light, the pupil must dilate and adjust, so phones must stay in pockets.
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SNUFFLE FOR TRUFFLES IN ITALY For Italian foragers, the tartufo bianco (white truffle) is the Holy Grail, and nowhere is more synonymous with this richlyaromatic fungus than Alba in northwestern Italy’s fertile
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Piedmont region, long a stronghold of the Slow Food movement. To stand even a slim chance of finding these nuggets of ‘white gold’, you have to enlist the expert services of a trifulau (truffle hunter) and a well-trained dog with a nose for the good stuff (picutred right). The difficulty of cultivating truffles adds to their mystique. Late autumn is the season for finding the prized white truffles, buried underground in misty woods of oak, willow and poplar. A true truffle hunter never reveals secret spots, and you might walk for some time before you dig up a marble-sized treasure. F Alba’s tourist office arranges hunts in season (www.langheroero.it), as do the Consorzio Turistico Langhe (www.tartufoevino.it) and the National Truffle Study Centre (www.tuber.it). PICK HERBS IN THE ALPS Part of the joy of walking in
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Know your herbs
PLUCK BERRIES IN SWEDEN The Swedes take foraging so seriously that it’s written into their law: allemansrätten (every man’s rights) grants permission to hike, camp and pick berries on another’s land, as long as it’s done respectfully. Simply head into the country’s ample empty spaces in July and August – the pick of the crops are wild strawberries, golden cloudberries, blueberries and lingonberries (pictured above). Remember to leave enough berries for the next person to pick.
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IT’S THE ANTITHESIS OF THE READY MEAL , with no premixed gloop, no additives (except maybe some soil), and packaging courtesy Mother Nature. Foraging for food and then magicking it into a meal is the most satisfying way to eat. Foraging helps you tune into nature and the changing seasons to gain a sense that this is how eating used to be. Plus, there’s also a cave-person smugness in knowing that, if all the supermarkets disappeared tomorrow, you could fend for yourself. Autumn is bonanza time for foragers as fruits ripen, berries appear, and mushrooms sprout overnight from the damp ground – you need only keep your eyes open and a basket at the ready. The seas and rivers offer a catch of wild fish such as mackerel and salmon, while the coastline can be combed for shellfish and edible seaweed. Sometimes, a professional guide can help point you in the right direction but, usually, asking locals for tips will be enough to get you harvesting the region’s specialties for a couple of hours. Just make sure you know what you’re picking, and take only what you will eat. There are plenty of other two- and four-legged foragers who will be relying on that same wild bounty.
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the pastures and forests in the foothills of the Alps is that they’re ripe with foraging potential. Come summer, the high pastures in the Alps burst into bloom with herbs and flowers. Apple mint, mallow, cornflower, wormwood, sorrel and yarrow lend interest to restaurant menus, or are dried to make teas that are as prized for their health-giving properties as for their flavour. In late spring, at lower altitudes, everyone seems to go crazy for wild garlic, which is blended into sauces and pestos. Picking by hand is a slow, almost meditative process – silent apart from the drum of a woodpecker or the dusk chorus of birdsong. F If you’re feeling lazy, you can find foraged herbs and teas without hiking; they’re available at farmers’ markets and on menus throughout the Alps.
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PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT MUNRO, SIMON BAJADA, LIKELIKE/123 (APPLE MINT), ALFIO SCISETTI/123RF (WORMWOOD), ROMAN FERNATI/123RF (SORREL & MALLOW),
Foraging is the ultimate in local, waste-free dining. What better way is there to understand a place than through your stomach?
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Striking out on your own can reap unexpected rewards – as Oliver Smith discovers when he inadvertently embarks on his first solo walking holiday, discovering giddy heights and hidden depths on the island of Mallorca @OliSmithTravel Photographs ANDREW MONTGOMERY
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN GREGSON
Words OLIVER SMITH
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Heroic Mediterranean views from a lonely trail among the peaks of the Serra de Tramuntana above the village of DeiĂ
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In the valleys above Sรณller, villages and orchards cling to the foothills, beneath massive limestone peaks
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HENEVER I go hiking, I go with my friend Big Al. Our adventures have taken us from the rainy peaks of Snowdonia to the rainy peaks of the Highlands. He is an excellent mountain guide, not least because he does it for a living. He has pockets with Tardis-like properties, out of which all forgotten items can be summoned on request. And, when things go wrong on a hike – when you’ve got a faceful of rain, a bootful of cowpat and are weeping inaudibly in a mountaintop gale – Big Al comes to the rescue. He can pick you up like a cat grabbing a kitten in its mouth, and deposit you by the fireside in the nearest pub. Then, after a few pints, you can pretend it never happened and you are the Shackleton of millennials. This is why I’ve never walked alone. Why Al walks with me, I’m not sure. Perhaps it’s practice for guiding school groups. Big Al and I planned a hiking trip to the summits of the Alps. This time, it was serious. We hired specialist equipment – snowshoes, probes, an avalanche transceiver that looked like a Tamagotchi, which would beep sympathetically when all the snow on the Matterhorn tipped on our heads. There would be glaciers and fondue, yodelling and raclette. It would be the biggest adventure of all and… “I can’t come.” Big Al called me the day before to say he was ill, and couldn’t make it. He didn’t say I’d be daft going on my own, but I got a strong hint I should put in a call to the Chamonix mountain rescue team from the Pret A Manger at Luton Airport. Keen not to lose my holiday time, I logged into the airline’s website to change my flights, planning an alternative walk. It offered a phone number when I selected Inverness, but no one picked up. The website crashed when I put in Barcelona. By default, I stumbled onto Mallorca the following day. If you’ve never gone abroad with under 24 hours’ notice, then do it. It is a thrilling experience. Boarding a flight with the exhilaration of a criminal on the run. Opening a bag merrily packed after a trip to the pub, to discover some unrelated socks and a pencil case full of cheese. Finding myself in a place I hadn’t Googled. And inadvertently arriving in one of the most beautiful landscapes I’d never heard of. The Serra de Tramuntana is a mountain range about a 30-minute drive from Palma Airport. At its lower levels are orchards heavy with ripening fruit, and villages whose names whisper of the days when Moors reigned over the island. Rising higher: forests of holm oak and Aleppo pine, silent but for the jingle of goat
WALKING SOLO IN MALLORCA, SPAIN
THIS IS A BIT OF OLD WORLD MEDITERRANEAN, PICKLED FOR ETERNITY
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The trails of the GR-211, aka the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, offer many unofficial variations for freerange wandering
WALKING SOLO IN MALLORCA, SPAIN
bells and the twitter of wintering birds.And at the top: sharp limestone summits, snagging the winds that blow from Iberia to Italy. It is a bit of Old World Med pickled for eternity. But, what’s more, the range sits close to the most infamous resort in Mallorca. Stag dos; crazy golf; bars where you can drink like a fish and vomit like a geyser – all can be found close to the southern slopes of the Serra de Tramuntana. But they could not feel further away. I set out on a trail from the town of Sóller, and saw the landscape emerging from the pre-dawn darkness. A faraway lighthouse silhouetted against a moonlit sea. Rooftops of a sleeping town below. And, eventually, morning sunshine, warming the cliffs above. By breakfast time, I was among the range’s summits. On one side, the land dropped to the sea; the silvery tides of the Med where Odysseus and Aeneas sailed. On the other, the plain of Mallorca, the eastern hills and beyond them, the Love Island villa. In 36 hours, I had done it – transferred from my sofa to the roof of the Mediterranean, borne by my own two feet (at least partly). And so I passed a few happy days wandering in the mountains. Walking alone, I’ve discovered, nurtures wild eccentricity. It is the freedom to set your own agenda, to choose your own route. But also to eat your packed breakfast at 10.33am and your packed lunch at 10.42am, if you so wish. To hold long conversations with yourself. On lonely mountain passes, I practised my phrasebook Spanish on the goats. ¿Tienes una habitación para una noche? (Do you have a room for one night?) repeated until it acquired the gravel of Javier Bardem and the wit of Cervantes. And soon the mountains echoed back: ¿Tienes una habitación para una noche? And solo walking sets your imagination free from its moorings – until every stride feels momentous, every day heroic. At the highest point on the trail, I made a detour to an old snow trap – a strange structure, which Mallorcans in centuries past would use to store packed snow in winter, and export it down the mountain as ice during sweltering summers. I lay down in the hollow from which the ice for a million sorbets had been scooped, and fell asleep. I woke with the stone walls rising around me like my own personal castle: the ramparts framing my own private quadrant of stars. After a few days walking on the trails, I descended into the town of Port de Pollença and found a hotel. I started: ‘Tienes una habitación…’ before mumbling the rest in French, handing over €45 and avoiding eye contact. The magic of the mountains had worn off. Up there, I was a hero; down here I was just a guy with a pencil case full of cheese. Lying on the bed, I traced my route on a map – a meandering line zigzagging through the range. The U-turns spoke of last-minute planning. The detours recalled naps under cloudless skies. I hoped Big Al would be proud. OLIVER SMITH is a contributing writer to Lonely Planet (UK) magazine. In 10 years of trips,he hasn’t mastered successful packing.
IN 36 HOURS, I HAD DONE IT – TRANSFERRED FROM MY SOFA TO THE ROOF OF THE MEDITERRANEAN MAKE IT HAPPEN GETTING THERE Virgin Atlantic, Qatar Airways, Etihad and Turkish Airlines frequently operate between major Indian metro cities to Palma de Mallorca Airport in Spain (return fares from ` 70,000). The town of Sóller is the trailhead for the most popular mountain walks. It’s easily reached from Palma on the wondrous and historic Ferrocarril de Sóller railway (www.trendesoller.com; from `1,400 one-way). THE WALK Mallorca’s most famous hiking route is the Ruta de Pedra en Sec – also known as the GR-221 – which runs the length of the Serra de Tramuntana from Port d’Andratx in the west to Port de Pollença in the north, via Sóller. Stretching just over 100 miles, the route is fairly easy to follow, with many signposts – particularly on the northern stretches – and many potential detours and variations. Most hikers cover it in five to eight days. Macs Adventure is among companies offering a seven-night self-guided itinerary, including transfers and accommodation (www.macs adventure.com; from ` 94,000/ person). WHERE TO STAY Finca Ca’s Sant is a superb place at which to rest trail-weary feet in Sóller, set in shady orange groves with views up to green mountains (www.cas-sant.com; from ` 15,000). In Port de Pollença, the Hotel Sis Pins has old-world charm, and an enviable location on the town’s handsome seafront promenade (www. hotelsispins.com; from `10,500). FURTHER INFORMATION Cicerone’s excellent Trekking in Mallorca has details of the route and official hostels. The GR-221 website has basic info (www.gr221.info). For more on the island, see Lonely Planet’s Mallorca..
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Wander landscapes where the Earth’s energy has gathered and exploded with beautiful ferocity WHEN MONUMENT VALLEY RISES INTO SIGHT FROM THE DESERT FLOOR , you realise you’ve always known it. Its brick-red spindles, sheer-walled mesas and grand buttes – the stars of countless films, TV commercials and magazine ads – are part of the modern consciousness. And Monument Valley’s epic beauty is only heightened by the barren landscape surrounding it: one minute you’re in the middle of sand, rocks and infinite sky, then, suddenly, you’re transported to a fantasyland of crimson sandstone towers, thrusting up to 360 metres skyward. Most of the formations were named for what they (sort of) look like: the Mittens, Eagle Rock, Bear and Rabbit, and Elephant Butte. Scattered along the border between Arizona and Utah, they are tinged red with iron oxide and were formed through a complex combination of volcanic activity, sedimentary deposition in prehistoric oceans, geologic uplift, then erosion over the past 50 million years by both wind and water (pictured right) . The most famous of the formations are conveniently visible from the rough 15-mile dirt road looping through Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. It’s usually possible to drive the loop in your own vehicle, even in standard passenger cars, but expect a dusty, bumpy ride. There are multiple dramatic overlooks where you can get out and snap away, or browse through the trinkets and jewellery offered by Navajo vendors. Allow at least 1½ hours for the drive, which starts from the visitor centre’s car park at the end of a four-mile paved road off Highway 163. To learn more about Monument Valley’s spiritual significance and heritage, take a Navajo-led tour (www.navajospirittours. com; Regular day time tour from ` 10,700/ person (plus taxes) two person minimum).
eerie ice caverns, surreal basalt formations and even wandering herds of reindeer. F The easiest access is from Route 1, Iceland’s Ring Road, as it follows the south coast, with the town of Höfn as a hub (www.inspiredbyiceland.com). JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK, JAPAN In the snowy mountains around Nagano, magma courses beneath the terrain, heating up groundwater,
which bursts to the surface in a series of onsen (hot springs). At Jigokudani Monkey Park, snow monkeys take advantage of this, descending from the mountains to warm up in their very own onsen (pictured below left). Visit when there’s snow on the mountain (December to February). F Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen train from Tokyo to Nagano (www.en.jigokudani-yaenkoen. co.jp). HUANGLONG NATIONAL PARK, CHINA Huanglong National Park in central China’s Sichuan province has intact forests, snowcapped mountains, waterfalls and colourful lakes that are the result of rich calcium deposits swirling in water. Geothermal springs burst through the Earth’s crust all around the park. F Fly into Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport, 27 miles away, from Sichuan’s capital Chengdu (www.huanglong.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES; THEP THANANCHAI/123RF (MONKEY)
VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK, ICELAND Born of ice and fire, Vatnajökull is everything Iceland should be: wild and exposed, ice-crowned and volcano-scarred, but always ruggedly handsome. As you roam this vast reserve – Europe’s largest protected area – you’ll find calving glaciers, geothermal springs, rocky canyons, snowcapped mountains, featureless ice sheets, silent lagoons, buried volcanoes,
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In the darkness, among the inner reaches of a forest swarming with life, humans are very much not top of the tree. This is the wildest sleepover ever EVEN IN BROAD DAYLIGHT, THE JUNGLE CAN FEEL LIKE AN UNFATHOMABLE PLACE . But spending the night in the thick of a forest can awaken our most primal fears. As your surroundings darken, the chorus of cicadas rises to a near-deafening buzz. A dull thud on the roof of your hut could be a tree branch, or a nocturnal animal landing from above. And, in habitats stalked by big cats, a rustling sound outside the door at midnight is better left uninvestigated. A humbling realisation dawns: human rules don’t apply here. In Southeast Asia’s jungles, where sun bears tear at tree bark and tapirs mark their territory, people seem like feeble specimens. Against the Amazon basin’s 400-plus mammal species, we represent a mere speck within teeming, interlaced ecosystems. As the hours pass during a night in the jungle, nature encroaches ever closer: ants march without rest along the window frame, or a pair of beady eyes outside catches the light. When a thunderstorm builds to its ear-splitting crescendo, it becomes clear you’re at the mercy of nature’s powers. Gradually, you grow accustomed to the sounds of the forest. Your eyes adjust to the low light, and senses feel keener. Amid the jungle’s racket of hooting birds, croaking frogs and scuttling lizards, sleep can be elusive – but a feeling of awe endures long after dawn breaks.
just a five-minute walk from the resort; 80 orphaned primates swing freely through Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre (www.sepilokjungleresort.com; rooms from ` 1,680). LAPA RIOS, COSTA RICA Scarlet macaws, sloths (pictured below) and giant anteaters are just a few species among Costa Rica’s impressive jungle fauna (in all, five per cent of the planet’s biodiversity). Ecolodge Lapa
Rios on the Osa Peninsula, which has the government’s maximum ‘five leaf’ rating for sustainability, has bungalows tucked into a 1,000-acre lowland rainforest reserve. F Roads from San José to Lapa Rios are maintained, or the lodge can arrange air transport, if you aren’t keen on the seven-hour drive (www.laparios.com; rooms from ` 49,300). CRADLE MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS VILLAGE, AUSTRALIA Cool-climate travellers can plunge into rainforest wilderness in Tasmania. Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village has private cabins hidden among moss-draped trees, where there’s a good chance of playing hide and seek with pademelons (small, wallaby-like marsupials). If you hear something go bump in the night, it might be a wombat. F There are numerous walks around the resort. To enter Cradle Mountain National Park, shuttle buses run from the visitor centre to Dove Lake (www.cradlevillage. com.au; rooms from ` 10,150).
PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN GREGSON, UNNIKRISHNAN RAVINDRANADAN
SEPILOK JUNGLE RESORT, MALAYSIAN BORNEO Some of the world’s oldest rainforests cloak Borneo, the largest island in Asia. Clouded leopards pad through its jungles, hornbills soar above the canopy, and bats pour out from caves at sunset. In northerly Sabah, Sepilok Jungle Resort has private huts and dorm accommodation allowing travellers to doze to the sound of scampering geckos. F Meet humankind’s near relatives
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Music can mainline a dancer into the experience of a country or culture faster than anything else, be it line-dancing, flamenco, Texas two-step, salsa or techno around in their cowboy boots. F There are up to four shows daily, from mid-afternoon to 2am; check the schedule at www.continentalclub.com. DONDE FIDEL, CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA Off Plaza del Reloj, the blaring sounds of salsa announce Donde Fidel’s incredible dancers.
Squeeze into the bar’s narrow spaces beneath photographs of music legends, but don’t think you can just watch: someone will inevitably drag you onto the floor. F The venue is open from 12.30pm – 12.30am daily. Find it at El Portal de los Dulces 32-09. AMOR DE DIOS, MADRID, SPAIN Flamenco is not a venture to be taken lightly, as watching a performance will show you. Get instructed by the best at Amor de Dios studio in Madrid; just make sure you’re committed to going all-in. F Check out the Spanish class timetable at www.amorde dios.com. CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS, BERLIN, GERMANY Step back in time when you visit this ballroom (pictured right), where the couples waltzing might make you think it’s 1913 again. Regular classes in tango, ballroom, salsa and more get you up and dancing. F Check the class timetable at www.ballhaus.de. DNI TANGO SCHOOL BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA Some people spend a lifetime trying to master the steamy strut, described as making love in the vertical position. Tango is about capturing beauty and passion in movement (pictured left). You can learn it in its homeland at the DNI Tango School. F Newbies can start with the 1.5-hour beginner’s class and work up (www.dni-tango.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARK READ; GORAN BOGICEVIC/123RF (TANGO)
THE CONTINENTAL CLUB, AUSTIN, THE USA The Texan capital is filled with great spots in which to shake a leg, including the legendary Continental Club and its proficient two-steppers. Head down to guitarist Redd Volkaert’s cover-free Saturday show, or any day of the week, when you’re sure to find people whirling
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Celluloid dreams are now within reach. Journey to stunning locations in our backyard EVER SINCE WE WERE KIDS, FILMS HAVE ALWAYS PLAYED AN IMPORTANT PART
in shaping travel goals. Big-budget productions from the various film industries across India introduced us to the glamorous vistas of Europe, the vast expanses of the American grasslands, or the untamed Outback Down Under. While most of us could only dream of, one day, gallivanting around Swiss gardens or leaving a trail of dust in the wake of an SUV across the prairie, as independent filmmaking and low-budget projects became increasingly popular, we also caught glimpses of some breathtaking landscapes in our own country. The sub-continent has an enormous variety of geographies – from the stark, otherworldly setting of Ladakh, and the vast tracts of the Thar desert to the lush, rain-swept countryside of Kerala, and the muddy banks of a mighty river meandering across the flood plains of Central India. And, not just the better-known locations, Indian filmmakers began to troop down to many offbeat, undiscovered places as well – which is how many travellers within the country became aware of such destinations, with affordability and accessibility being prime motivators. In case you haven’t yet had a chance to see for yourself the wonderful options we have within India, here’s a glimpse of some unusual ones. ORCHHA, MADHYA PRADESH While most of us know about Jhansi owing to the legendary Lakshmibai, few are familiar with the ancient town of Orchha. Founded back in the 16th century, the town is sited on the banks of the Betwa River at the point where the river splits into seven channels. There are many temples, monuments and palaces here that still stand tall, and, being relatively undiscovered, can be explored at leisure owing to the absence of crowds. From the 14 chhatris, or memorials (pictured right), to the erstwhile rulers of Orchha to the Jehangir Palace and Raja Mahal, the architecture reflects a breadth of influences. For some added excitement, you could go rafting on the Betwa or take a safari into the Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary. For such a little town, Orchha has
tonnes of experiences to offer. ) You’ve seen Orchha in Badrinath Ki Dulhaniya (2017) KANGER GHATI NATIONAL PARK, CHHATTISGARH The forests of Chhattisgarh are among the few pockets of dense green cover left in the country. The state is rich in biodiversity and is home to some of India’s oldest peoples who are an integral part of the ecosystem here. From dense tree cover to marshlands, grasslands and hilly areas, there’s a wide variety of terrain within Kanger Ghati and, consequently, it supports an enormous range of wildlife – Bastar hill mynahs, mugger crocodiles, leopards, striped hyena, barking deer, monitor lizards and macaque monkeys, among others. Spots such as Tirathgarh Falls, Bhainsadhara, and Kotamsar, and the Kailash and Dandak limestone caves are popular draws. Taking a couple of days to explore the region is recommended for a deeply fulfilling experience. [9am – 6pm; from ` 200/ person] ) You’ve seen Chhattisgarh in Newton (2017)
WORDS: SAMARPAN BHOWMIK PHOTOGRAPHS: PRASHANSA GURUNG /123RF.COM (MAJULI), STEVE ALLENUK/123RF.COM (ORCHHA)
MAJULI, ASSAM Located in the middle of the Brahmaputra River in Assam, Majuli (pictured below), holds the distinction of being the largest river island in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. It can be reached by ferry from the city of Jorhat. Having been the cultural capital of Assam for five centuries, Majuli is a melting pot of people, cultures and faiths. One of the best times to visit is in the month of February, when the harvest festival of Ali Aye Ligang is held. From traditional dances to special foods, the glimpse into the lives of local communities will be an experience that’ll stay with you. ) You’ve seen Majuli in Kothanodi (2015)
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The ancient port of Muziris near Kochi, Kerala, might have been obliterated in a flood, but its spirit lives on in these five sites WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS PRIMROSE MONTEIRO-D’SOUZA @PrimroseDSouza
FINDING ANCIENT MUZIRIS, KERALA
N Kerala, stepping into a boat can transport you to another world. When you step gingerly into a wobbly vallam, the ubiquitous wooden canoe, you will be privy to the lives of the locals who live off the backwaters. If you are welcomed onto a kettuvallam (houseboat), you will be handed into hospitality – welcoming but never obsequious – that the state is famous for. And then, there is the hop-off, hop-on boat that works as a time machine into centuries gone by. Gliding down backwaters, flirting with the Arabian Sea, the boat takes you back to a time when an area close to Kochi was a bustling port city that brought traders from all over the world to this corner of the sub-continent.
My interest is first piqued by a painting at Port Muziris – a Tribute Portfolio Hotel near Cochin International Airport. A Roman and a Keralite gentleman stand in a boat carried by men across a swathe of land. The painting by Vishnu Nair is part of a series commissioned to bring the many moods of Kochi and Kerala to the property. There is modern Kerala, the hustle and bustle of its metro and malls, but there are also these throwbacks on canvas to a time gone by. Like the Kochi-Muziris Biennale that has grown to become one of India’s most significant contemporary art exhibitions, the property takes its name from Muziris, an ancient seaport and city dating back from at least 1 BCE. No one is really sure what the modern-day equivalent would be, but, based on Tamil poetry and classical sources (including the Ramayana), and evidenced by a number of excavations in the area, Pattanam on the Malabar Coast, 37km from Kochi, is probably where that once-flourishing gateway was sited. It was a place to which Arabs, Chinese, Persians, North Africans, Greeks and Romans came to buy spices, precious and semi-precious stones, Chinese silk and tortoise shells, and to sell gold coins, peridots, linens, raw glass and wine to the chiefs of the Chera kingdom. Arguably, it was a place abustle with trade industry. The Tamil poetic work, Purananuru (the name translates to the Four Hundred Songs of War and Wisdom), has a wonderful description of ‘Muciri’: “With its streets, its houses, its covered fishing boats, where they sell fish, where they pile up rice… With the shifting and mingling crowd of a boisterous river-bank where the sacks of pepper are heaped up… With its gold deliveries, carried by the ocean-going ships and brought to the river bank by local boats, the city of the gold-collared Kuttuvan (Chera chief), the city that bestows wealth to its visitors
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1. The modern-day backwaters are always alive with activity 2. The journey to Ancient Muziris is made in a comfortable, air-conditioned boat Facing page: Pepper, a painting by Vishnu Nair at Port Muziris – a Tribute Portfolio Hotel
indiscriminately, and the merchants of the mountains, and the merchants of the sea, the city where liquor abounds, yes, this Muciri, where the rumbling ocean roars, is given to me like a marvel, a treasure.” That marvellous city vanished from the maps of the world in the 14th century. The flood of Periyar in 1341 was cataclysmic – to the extent that it changed forever the geography of the region, opening up the current harbour at Kochi and a network of backwaters, and forming Vypeen Island near Kochi. In time, the mouth of the Periyar River was so silted up that Muziris could no longer function as a port. Since then, it has lingered only in the minds of antiquarians, archaeologists and festival curators. Seven seasons of excavation by the Kerala Council for Historical Research have uncovered artefacts at Pattanam. Roman coins, as well as other ceramics, gold ornaments, semi-precious stone beads, items related to lapidary, architectural ruins and botanical remains reveal contact with countries around the Mediterranean and Red Sea. The Chinese presence is seen in porcelain shards with typical blue-on-white patterns. In 2007, a brick wharf complex with bollards to harbour nine
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boats, and a canoe mummified in mud were found. The heritage site stretches across the municipality of North Paravur in Ernakulam District to the municipality of Kodungallur in Thrissur district. Time, then, to step into a boat and sail into the past.
Initiated by the government of Kerala, the Muziris Heritage Project is an initiative to conserve and showcase an ancient culture that the tourism department avers is as significant as that of the Indus Valley. For visitors like me, it translates to a day spent out on the water, riding the backwaters to explore old temples, churches and forts set amid modern coastal life. As we set off in the very comfortable - and, importantly, air conditioned - boat down the backwaters of the Periyar, Neethu , our guide for the day, points out the Chinese fishing nets that are so much a Kerala signature. The banks are close to us as we motor along, past coconut trees and banana plantations, people walking or cycling on the paths alongside, ducks holding an impromptu conference about whether it’s a good day for swimming. The blue netted fish farms set into the water breed kalanji (Asian sea bass), and vallams carry locals down the river. Overhanging greenery atmospherically obscures the banks at some places, revealing a boat tied up under it here, a set of steps coming down to the water there. We float past a massive river island, and pass a Shri Krishna temple which, Neethu tells us, cocoons a five-foot statue of Shri Krishna in his Narasimha avatar. Echoes of the past seem to mirror the present; Neethu’s own home in this very area was inundated in the 2018 flood; she spent eight days in a camp, she tells me, matter-of-factly. Her guests include locals and visitors from across the world who want to cast themselves back into a time gone by. 1
Jewish visitors come seeking the heritage encapsulated in our first stop on the heritage trail. Sited on Jewish Street, the Paravur Synagogue is among the largest surviving synagogues in Kerala. It dates back to 1615, though many believe that the site sits on the ruins of an older synagogue from 1165. Built by permission of the local king, the synagogue is a testament to the cultural influences that impacted the Jewish settlers and traders in the area. Many of the other synagogues in Kerala suffered damage during the Dutch and Portuguese occupations and the invasions of the Mysore Kingdom; this one is gratifyingly undamaged. All but one of the local families in the area have moved to Israel, Neethu tells me, which means the quorum of 10 adult males to hold services is not met. The stunning structure is now a museum, showcasing Keralite influences in its whitewashed laterite walls, special seating for women worshippers on the upper floor, and the hanging lamps in the prayer room.
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FINDING ANCIENT MUZIRIS, KERALA As is traditional with dwellings in Kerala, we bend our heads in respect as we enter. Well-researched information boards tell of the history of the Jews in this part of the world. Within, we find excellent replicas of the carved Ark of the Torah and the bema (pulpit), now in a museum in Israel; the woodwork is a tribute to the skill of local carpenters. The ceiling and benches are original. We climb upstairs via a separate staircase from the outside to the inner balcony for women, and gaze through carved openings at the upper pulpit used on special days and at the main worship room in which the men prayed.
1. The entrance to the Paliam Palace Museum; photography is not allowed inside 2. Schoolchildren cycle back home along the backwaters Facing page: 1 and 3. The woodwork in the Paravur Synagogue is a tribute to the skill of the local carpenters 2. Neethu, our enthusiastic guide on the Muziris trail
Picture a stormy night long, long ago. The invading Portuguese threatened the royal house of Kochi, and the king sought refuge in the home of the Paliathachan (prime minister) in Chendamangalam. It was a successful evasion of disaster, obviously, because, after the event, the traditional home was elevated to the status of
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a ‘kovilakam’ (palace) in gratitude. More enhancement to the house came when the Dutch renovated it in appreciation of the prime minister’s services (more on that later), which means the Paliam Palace Museum we step into is a carefully-preserved hybrid of local and Dutch styles of architecture. It is also a gateway into a world of domestic and foreign threats to the kingdom of Kochi. As prime ministers and chiefs of the army, the Paliathachans from the noble Paliam family were an intrinsic part of local governance in the 17th and 18th centuries - an importance reflected in the elegance of the house in which the valiyachan (eldest father) lived and in which many important decisions regarding the state were made.The twostoreyed building is stunning, and the no-photography rule means that non-visitors will almost never be privy to its interiors. Within laterite-and-lime walls three feet thick to protect against cannon-ball strikes, the first staircase is made of teak in the Kerala style; Neethu points out the high steps that are difficult to climb this could only be used by the prime minister. Even today. We move on into the erstwhile armoury and weapons storage room, which hosts lamps from 41 temples across Paliam. We climb to the first floor by a Dutch-style staircase (easier to climb, happily) to the PM’s rest room, which takes up most of the space on this level. A cupboard-like space on the periphery could have served variously as a punishment closet to wring out confessions from suspects, as an escape route for the prime minister (and so, no doubt, also the king), or opened out to facilitate much-needed air circulation. From the outer windows, in many different styles across the two storeys, the minister could keep an eye on the temple, his office buildings, the Paliam temple and the tharavadu where the women and minor boys of the family lived (this was a no-female zone). Also on this level was the durbar hall, in which he held court and listened to the plaints of the people, presiding over the proceedings from a small platform. On the second floor, the bedstead in the resting chamber is made from 68 medicinal woods, to ensure that the prime minister was never distracted from his responsibilities by plebeian aches and pains. Bodyguards were stationed on the adjoining balcony, overlooking the durbar. Today, no threat hanging over us, we wander leisurely through the reading room, now a repository of artefacts from temples - conch shells, ornaments of those who get possessed in temples, puja items in copper and bronze, coconut measures for paddy, a temple safe with seven internal locks, a manuscript chest, and ornaments for elephants during festival time, among them. In 1956, in what is called the Paliam Partition, the joint family broke up into smaller units, and this building came under the custodianship of the Paliam Trust. The atmosphere is hushed by request, and it seems fitting in this place seemingly frozen in time.
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a child’s wooden bathtub, a photo wall of family members, a burnished mirror in the valiyamma’s suite, and the corridor of sambandh rooms in which the women of the house could meet privately with their husbands. If the Paliam kovilakam was a male domain, the Paliam Nalukettu (nalu = four in Malayalam) is absolutely about woman power. Four blocks around a central courtyard, this was the ancestral home of the Paliam noble family since 1986, in which several generations of the matrilineal joint family lived together. Minor boys lived in this nalukettu till they left for bachelors’ living quarters near by; when they married, they were allotted houses by the administration. We peep first into this museum’s massive kitchen, in which food for 300 people was cooked, all under the strict supervision of the valiyamma (matriarch), who kept her eye on the kochammas (lesser women in the household). All authority lay with the matriarch; from her beautiful wood-panelled room on the first floor, she kept an eye on the kitchen below (she gave instructions from a window offering direct view into the comings and goings in the house), and she kept the keys to the massive strong room (“ara”) in which all the valuables in the house - including all the jewellery - were stashed. Other portkeys into another time include the tiny wooden windows set at an angle to aid circulation, wooden troughs for curry so big it took two people to carry them,
Below: Cranganoor Fort is still being excavated Facing page: 1. Under-the-trees picnic spots on the way back to the jetty from Cranganoor Fort 2 & 3. A local meal at Portuguese Food Destination on the heritage trail
Another ride on the boat and we come to Cranganoor Fort, also known as Kottappuram or Kodungallur Fort, much in demand over five centuries because its location at the mouth of the River Periyar before it joins the Arabian Sea was perfect for control over the sailing craft that passed into the interior of Malabar. Built by the Portuguese in 1523, it was captured and destroyed by the Dutch in 1663. Time now to recall the Dutch renovation of the paliathachan’s palace. It came to be because the Dutch had tried to take the fort in vain in 1662, and only managed the capture in 1663 with the prime minister’s help. Net result: The Dutch get the fort, the paliathachan gets Dutch-style, easier-toclimb staircases and the like. The Dutch used the site to keep an eye on their trading ships. When the Kingdom of Mysore decided that the Malabar deserved its interest, Haider Ali began negotiations with the Dutch to buy the fort. When Tipu Sultan started taking over the Malabar
FINDING ANCIENT MUZIRIS, KERALA Coast, the Travancore rulers, recognising that they needed to stave off invasion by Mysore, purchased Kottapuram Fort and Pallippuram Fort from the Dutch in 1789. Later, in 1909, the Department of Archaeology of Travancore decided to preserve it as a public property, erecting a memorial pillar within. We wander through the site, parts of it under cover for excavation. Here were found beads, cannon, pottery and the skeleton of a 21-year-old Portuguese man. Everything seems disappointingly abandoned; brokendown structures litter the area, the once-tall flagpole has been whittled down by age, and, no doubt, tourism. Even the centuries-old skeleton can be accessed by simply sweeping off a tarpaulin cover. The most life to be found here is when we come upon families having a picnic on the soft grass by the water on the way back to the jetty.
Then we ride past the shipbuilding yard and St Thomas Church, swerving past the temptation of the open sea entrance to the backwaters. The placidity of the backwaters is soothing, with different districts on the two banks - Thrissur to the left, and Ernakulam to the right. Past the famous Munambam fishing harbour, where fish auctions are held in the early morning. Past the people in the local ferry service going about their regular lives, waving cheerfully at us. And then we come to the Basilica of Our Lady of Snows at Pallipuram near Cherai. Also called the Manjumatha Church, it comes with an intriguing story dating back to the 18th century when Tipu Sultan was marching deeper into the South. The parishioners sought sanctuary in the church, and the Virgin Mary shrouded the church in fog, befuddling the army that soon left. An ancient chapel attributed to the Portuguese and Vasco da Gama also stands nearby. 1
Time runs out on us before we can visit the sixth site on our itinerary - the birthplace of Sahodaran Ayyappan, renowned poet, journalist, thinker, politician and social reformer, now a museum in memory of a man who did much to fight caste discrimination. We head back to the jetty in Paravur and our life in modern-day India, even as the backwaters lull us to stupor, pull us back to a time long ago - not a gentler time, certainly, but a time of war and wisdom. The old Chinese curse goes ‘May you live in interesting times’. With courtly intrigues, stately buildings, and sudden fogs, the people in Muziris certainly did. primrose monteiro-d’souza
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thoroughly enjoyed her journey into the past. She travelled to Ancient Muziris courtesy Port Muziris — a Tribute Portfolio Hotel.
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MAKE IT HAPPEN: MUZIRIS, KERALA Essentials BEST TIME TO VISIT While Kochi is at its most comfortable, weather-wise, from October to March, any time is good to visit. The monsoon months – June to September – are known to be good for Ayurvedic treatments, though do watch the warnings for heavy rains before you leave. GETTING THERE All the Indian airlines fly into Cochin International Airport from major Indian metros (return fares from ` 4,900). GETTING AROUND Auto rickshaws and app-based cabs are easily available in Kochi.
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STAY
PLACES TO EAT
GOOD TO KNOW
Port Muziris – A Tribute Portfolio Hotel is an ideal base for your exploration of ancient Muziris. Although it is 20km away from Pattanam, the artworks on the property are a great visual introduction on your quest. The property will organise this itinerary for you on request (00-91484-719-3333; www.marriott. com/hotels/travel/coktx-port-muziris-a-tribute-portfoliohotel-kochi/; VIP Rd, opposite Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery, Vappalassery; from ` 5,000).
On the Muziris itinerary, lunch is usually at Portuguese Food Destination at Kodungallur; a set meal is part of your day trip, but do break out and order some of the excellent prawns and beef with Kerala parotta (00-9189437-79900; Muziris Lake Shore Park; Portuguese special dishes start at ` 130). In the Port Muziris property (see Stay), grab a meal at Lila’s Kitchen, which prides itself on being a perfect introduction to food across Kerala (see Stay: mains from ` 400). In the city centre, the Grand Pavilion restaurant at the Grand Hotel is a classic, both in terms of the menu and the elegant decor. Try the Alleppey fish curry for sure (00-91-484-238-2061; MG Rd, Ernakulam South; from ` 315). In Fort Kochi, enjoy a light meal at the iconic Kashi Art Cafe – the Watermelon and Feta Salad is particularly good (Burgher St, Fort Kochi; 8.30am – 10pm; from ` 150).
• The Muziris Heritage Project is arguably India’s largest conservation project. Book in advance by calling 00-91-90208-64649, or via the website (www.muzirisheritage. org). Although guides are assigned randomly, check if Neethu is available (tour from ` 5,850/ family; ` 580/ person [minimum 10 people]). You can also take a chance and book on the spot.
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• There are usually four to five stops on the circuits, which entails about 3.5 hours in the boat, and some amount of walking to the sites. Done diligently, this immersion into the past could take up to eight hours. • Ensure you carry plenty of water and an umbrella or big sun hat. These will have to be left outside the sites with the custodians, but you will need them.
JANUARY 2020
Mini Guides Experience culture in Kraków, Poland
Discover the best of Madurai, Tamil Nadu Chill outdoors in Cape Town, South Africa
FROM YOUR MAGAZINE TO YOUR POCKET…
MINI GUIDE JANUARY 2020
CULTURE IN KRAKÓW, POLAND SIGHTS
F YOU BEL EVE THE LEGENDS POLAND S SECOND CITY WAS FOUNDED ON THE DEFEAT OF A DRAGON AND A MYTHICAL ATMOSPHERE DOES INDEED PERMEATE ITS ATTRACT VE STREETS AND SQUARES USE THIS GUIDE TO GET TO GRIPS W TH ITS CULTURE WHY GO? WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
HISTORY
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MINI GUIDE JANUAR
2020
CULTURE I KRAKÓ POLAND
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IF YOU BELIEVE THE LEGENDS, POLAND’S SECOND CITY WAS FOUNDED ON THE DEFEAT OF A DRAGON, AND A MYTHICAL ATMOSPHERE DOES INDEED PERMEATE ITS ATTRACTIVE STREETS AND SQUARES. USE THIS GUIDE TO GET TO GRIPS WITH ITS CULTURE. WHY GO?
To discover Kraków's rich history
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Check the Museum of Pharmacy, accommodated in a beautiful historic townhouse, experince Rynek Underground's spectacular audiovisual wizardry and admire the beauty of the Basilica of St Francis
FOOD
Send us your recommendations!
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MINI GUIDE JANUARY 2020
CULTUR AK
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Tell us which city you would like a Mini Guide for at lpmagazine@wwm.co.in and it could appear in our next issues
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MINI GUIDE JANUARY 2020
OUTDOORS IN CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA
THERE’S NOWHERE QUITE LIKE CAPE TOWN, A SINGULARLY BEAUTIFUL CITY THAT BLENDS CULTURES, CUISINES AND LANDSCAPES, ALL CROWNED BY MAGNIFICENT TABLE MOUNTAIN. SEE IT IN SOUTH AFRICA’S SUMMER SEASON WHY GO?
To explore all that South Africa has to offer
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Take on Table Mountain, explore the city, forge for your own food, and chill out at Cape Camino Left: The suburb of Sea Point under Lion’s Head Hill Right: South Africa has abundant distilleries, so treat yourself to a glass of gin or two
SIGHTS
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CITY SIGHTSEEING CAPE TOWN 1 The city’s hop-on, hop-off buses, running two main routes, are perfect for a quick orientation, and the open-top double-deckers mean you’re outside in the fresh air (00-27-86173-3287; www.citysightseeing. co.za/en; Ticket Office: Dock Rd, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; 8am – 6pm; Classic Hop on Hop Off Tour: ` 1,130). BLOUBERGSTRAND BEACH 2 A visit to this beach in a pleasant coastal suburb offers panoramic views of Table Mountain across Table Bay. This stretch of sand is popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers, and it’s impressive to watch them ride the waves on weekends. You can also see Robben Island clearly from here (2, Marine Dr, Table View). BO-KAAP 3 Meaning ‘Upper Cape’, the Bo-Kaap, with its vividly
HIKES AND TREKS
Work on your tan on Bloubergstrand Beach
painted low-roofed houses, many of them historic monuments, strung along narrow cobbled streets, is one of the most photographed sections of the city. Initially a garrison for soldiers in the mid-18th century, this area of town was where freed slaves started to settle after emancipation in the 1830s. The most picturesque streets are Chiappini, Rose and Wale (00-27-21-481-3939; www.iziko.org.za/museums/ bo-kaap-museum; 71, Wale St, Schotsche Kloof; 9am – 4pm Mon – Sat; entry: ` 100).
CHRISTOPHER SMITH HIKES 4 This National Park-trained freelance guide is a personable, knowledgeable chap who has plenty of experience guiding in Table Mountain National Park and other local domains (00-277-3727-0386; www. tablemountain.my-hiking.com, www.tablemountain.my-hiking .com/christopher-smith-contact). TABLE MOUNTAIN WALKS 5 Choose from a range of guided day hikes in different parts of the park, from ascents of Table Mountain to rambles through Silvermine Nature Reserve (00-27-82-920-4679; www.tablemountainwalks.co.za, mcurran@mweb.co.za; Tafelberg Rd; entry: ` 5,500). KIRSTENBOSCH NATIONAL BOSCH GARDEN 6 Location and unique flora combine to make these 1,300-acre botanical gardens
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Stroll down the Tree Canopy Walk
among the most remarkable in the world. Added for the garden’s centenary in 2013, the popular Tree Canopy Walkway (informally known as the ‘Boomslang’, which means tree snake) is a steel-and-timber bridge that rises through the trees and provides amazing views (00-27-21-799-8783; www.sanbi.org/gardens/ kirstenbosch; Rhodes Dr, Newlands; 8am – 7pm during summer [Sep – Mar], 8am – 6pm during winter [Apr – Aug]; entry: ` 362).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
MINI GUIDE
Outdoors in Cape Town, South Africa GETTING AROUND
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Kenya Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, Etihad and other airlines fly frequently to Cape Town from major Indian cities (return fares from ` 53,000). THE COST LOW
HIGH
DIFFICULTY OF TRAVEL LOW
HIGH
FOOD
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MEERENDAL/ CROWN RESTAURANT 7
This wine estate was established in 1702 and has some of South Africa’s oldest pinotage and shiraz vineyards, but there’s plenty of innovation here, too. The tasting room is adjacent to a contemporary art gallery and distillery, offering vodka, rum and gin tastings (00-27-21975-0383; www.meerendal. co.za/crown-restaurant, www. crownrestaurant.co.za; Vissershok Rd, Durbanville; 7am – 10pm Mon – Sun). VELD AND SEA
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Sign up for foraging courses here around fynbos (local shrubland) and the coast. The experienced guides will teach you sustainable techniques to harvest Mother Nature’s edibles, including seaweed and mussels from nearby rock pools in Scarborough and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Lunch is made from whatever you find (www.veldandsea.com, roushanna@hotmail.com; 7976
Harvesting mussels require a permit, available at the local post office
Plateau Rd, Cape Peninsula). CAPE CAMINO
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Inspired by Spain’s Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, Cape Camino was launched by mother-and-daughter team Gabrielle Andrew and Peggy Coetzee-Andrew in 2015. Local guides and small businesses, such as cafés and guesthouses, are involved, and the Camino passport entitles you to discounts along the route (00-27-83-9977404; www.capecamino.co.za, peggy@capecamino.co.za; 10, Rontree Close, Bakhoven).
Book a stay at Ashanti Gardens 10, one of Cape Town’s slickest hostels. The beautiful old house, decorated with a tasteful collection of contemporary art, holds the dorms and rooms with shared bathrooms (00-27-21-4238721; www.ashanti.co.za; 11 Hof St, Gardens; from ` 600). Expat French couple Maxime and Mélodie ladle on the Gallic charm at La Grenadine 11 with ancient stone walls that are a feature of the rooms (00-27-21424-1358; www.lagrenadine. co.za; 15 Park Rd, Gardens; from ` 10,500). A world apart from the rest of the city, the sugar-pink painted Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel 12 or ‘Nellie,’ is a colonial charmer with elegant rooms and facilities like a pool and several restaurants (00-27-21-483-1000; www.belmond.com; 76, Orange
EMBASSY ALERT
The High Commission of India, South Africa www.hcipretoria.gov.in
The deck at Ashanti Gardens overlooks Table Mountain
FANCY A CURRY
Vintage India is a large, airy restaurant with an extensive menu, along with Indo-Chinese dishes (00-27-21-462-5106; 10, Hiddingh Village, c/o Hiddingh Ave and Mill St, Gardens; 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm).
VISA
Apply for a visitor visa, which takes 5 days to process (www.visa.vfsglobal.com, ` 2,040 service charge). For more details, log on to www.lonelyplanet.com
COMPILED BY CATRIONA GREW, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SIMON RICHMOND, JAMES BAINBRIDGE, JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET, LUCY CORNE AND AISHWARYA MENON PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL JUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK, ILONDE VAN HOOLWERFF/500PX. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. CURRENCY AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT: 1 SOUTH AFRICAN RAND (ZAR) = ` 4.83
WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Cape Town is from March to May and from September to November. These shoulder seasons come with pleasant weather, fewer people and lower prices.
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MINI GUIDE JANUARY 2020
BEST OF MADURAI, TAMIL NADU
ORNATE TEMPLES, PALACES AND SOME OF THE BEST FOOD DOWN SOUTH – MADURAI HAS ALL THIS AND THEN SOME MORE, MAKING IT AN IDEAL WEEKEND GETAWAY WHY GO?
To treat yourself to a quick and fun holiday
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Pay your respects at Madurai’s many religious sites, brush up on your history at the Gandhi Memorial Museum, and pick between savoury and sweet options to satiate your appetite Left: Walk around the Meenakshi Amman Temple complex to check out its vibrant façade and bright colours and indulge in its soothing atmosphere Right: Treat yourself to a cold glass of jigarthanda
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RELIGIOUS SITES
HISTORY
MEENAKSHI AMMAN TEMPLE 1 Synonymous with Madurai, a trip to the city is incomplete without visiting the famed Meenakshi Amman temple, whether you’re religious or not. Dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi, Lord Shiva’s consort, the temple is covered in stunning murals, some of which depict the goddess’s union (0091-452-2344-360; www. maduraimeenakshi.org; 5am – 12.30pm, 4pm – 10pm; no shorts or socks permitted; entry: ` 100, Temple Art Museum: ` 5, camera fee: ` 50).
iconography. The church also has vibrant stained-glass work worth checking out (00-91-9942074695; Sivaganga District, Idaikkattur).
IDAIKATTUR CHURCH 2 Roughly an hour away from Madurai, the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (also known as the Idaikattur Church) is a replica of the Reims Cathedral in France in terms of architectural design, save for the white-and-maroon colour scheme. The 45-foot-high altar is particularly stunning, complete with a Gothic façade and Christian
PAZHAMUDIRCHOLAI TEMPLE 3 Go on a temple run and plan a visit to Pazhamudircholai Temple. Located on a hill, surrounded by dense forest, this relatively small but famous place of worship is where people come to pray for marital happiness and the gift of children (www.murugan.org/ temples/palamuthircolai.html; Alagar Hills RF; 5.30am – 6pm).
Marvel at the beauty of the Idaikattur Church
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GANDHI MEMORIAL MUSEUM 4 Inaugurated by Jawaharlal Nehru in 1959, the Gandhi Memorial Museum is situated in the famed Tamukkan Palace. The exhibits include the bloodstained garment Gandhi wore during his assassination and a letter written by him, addressed to Adolf Hitler (00-91-45-22531060; www.gandhimuseum.org/ site/gandian-institute/national/ gandhi-museum-madhurai/; Collector Office Rd, Tamukkam; 10am–1pm, 2pm – 5.45pm; camera: ` 50).
have resulted in a smaller structure. (Panthadi 1st St, Mahal Area, Madurai Main; 9am – 5pm).
THE THIRUMALAI NAYAK PALACE 5 Dating back to 1635, the Thirumalai Nayak Palace was built by King Thirumalai Nayak to serve as his residence. There are claims that the original palace was four times larger than the current edifice; years of renovations and modifications carried out by the Nayak family and Lord Napier, a former Governor of Madras,
SAMANAR HILLS 6 Make a trip to Keelakuyilkudi village, located 12km from Madurai, to visit Samanar Hills. A religious site dating back to the 1st century AD, the caves are marked with inscriptions that shed light on the Jain community that once flourished in this area. These caves also house 2,000-year-old Tamil-Brahmi inscriptions and Vatteluttu writings.
The Gandhi Memorial Museum chronicles India’s freedom struggle
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
MINI GUIDE
Best of Madurai, Tamil Nadu GETTING AROUND
See
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To Arapala m a Bus Stand (3km ) To Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (135km) ; Kochi (280km)
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WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Madurai is from November to March, when the weather is pleasant.
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4 ToMaria mmanTeppa kkulam Tank & Tempe (1km); Rame swa ram (160km )
SLEEP
FAMOUS JIGARTHANDA
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Make a stop at Famous Jigarthanda (the second word in the name literally translates to “cooling the heart”) to try the city’s most-loved beverage. Essentially a milk cream sharbat with almond pisin (resin) and nannari (sarsaparilla plant extract), the drink is rich, creamy and exceptionally sweet. But what sets Famous Jigarthanda apart is its use of basundi. Whether it’s worth the hype or not, you decide(00-91-98430-54186; www.famousjigarthanda.com; E Avani Moola St, Madurai Main; 10am – 10.30pm; Famous Jigarthanda special: ` 50). SULTHAN RESTAURANT
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GETTING THERE SpiceJet, IndiGo and Air India fly frequently to Madurai from all major metros (return fares from ` 10,000).
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If you’re on the prowl for a meat fix, head over to Sulthan Restaurant. While its first claim to fame is the fact that it stays open rather late (for Madurai), locals vouch for the food, so give the city’s famous layered parotta and biryani
The crab masala at Amma Mess packs real heat
a go here (00-91-452-4377047; 22, N Veli St, Yanaikkal, Nelpettai, Simmakkal, Madurai Main; 7am – 12am) AMMA MESS
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Famous for dishes like crab masala and a few unusual ones like bone-marrow omelette and pigeon meat, Amma Mess is known for its interesting menu. The restaurant itself is unassuming but the food sure does all the talking (00-91-98421-45900; 136, Alagar Kovil Main Rd, Mellur, Chinna Chokkikulam, Tallakulam; 12.30pm – 11pm).
Centrally located, the Royal Court 10 offers clean, budgetfriendly rooms and a rooftop restaurant (00-91-452-4356666; www.royalcourt india.com, booking@ royalcourtindia.com; 4, West Veli St, opp Railway Stn; from ` 4,830). Occupying the former Madurai Club and designed by renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, Heritage Madurai 11 is known for its beautifully-furnished rooms, and old bungalows, complete with plunge pools (00-91-452-2385455; www.heritagemadurai.com, reservations@ heritagemadurai.com; 11, Melakkal Main Rd, Kochadai; plunge pool villas from ` 5,800 with breakfast). The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai 12 is ideal to escape the city while still enjoying a great view of it. A former colonial residence, it comes with a pool and spa (00-91-452-663-3000; www. tajhotels.com/en-in/gateway/ pasumalai-madurai/, gateway. madurai@tajhotels.com; 40, TPK Rd; from ` 6,160).
Take a day out to explore Rameswaram
SIDE TRIP
A four-hour bus ride away from Madurai lies Rameswaram, a temple town worth exploring. Visit the Ramanathaswamy Temple that cocoons a lingam that Sita supposedly fashioned out of sand for Rama to worship Lord Shiva (www.rameswaramtemple.tnhrce. in; check website for puja timings). Walk down to Adam’s Bridge comprising reefs, sandbanks and islets that extend all the way to Sri Lanka. For more details, log on to www.lonelyplanet.com
COMPILED BY AURELIA FERNANDES WITH INPUTS FROM AISHWARYA MENON. PHOTOGRAPH: KRISHNA PRABAKAR, ISABEL POULIN/ 123RF, VINOBHA NATHAN. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
INDIA
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MINI GUIDE JANUARY 2020
CULTURE IN KRAKÓW, POLAND
IF YOU BELIEVE THE LEGENDS, POLAND’S SECOND CITY WAS FOUNDED ON THE DEFEAT OF A DRAGON, AND A MYTHICAL ATMOSPHERE DOES INDEED PERMEATE ITS ATTRACTIVE STREETS AND SQUARES. USE THIS GUIDE TO GET TO GRIPS WITH ITS CULTURE WHY GO?
To discover Kraków s rich history
WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Check the Museum of Pharmacy, accommodated in a beautiful historic townhouse, FYQFSJFODF Rynek Underground s spectacular audiovisual wizardry and admire the beauty of the Basilica of St Francis Left: The Church of St Adalbert by Kraków’s old market square Right: Crakow City Tours offers a range of walking and bus tours, as well as a popular four-hour bike tour (www.cracowcitytours.pl)
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SIGHTS WAWEL ROYAL CASTLE 1 As the political and cultural heart of Poland through the 16th century, Wawel Castle is a symbol of national identity. It’s now a museum containing five separate sections: the Crown Treasury & Armoury, State Rooms, Royal Private Apartments, Lost Wawel and the Exhibition of Oriental Art (00-48-12-4221697; www.wawel.krakow. pl, bot@wawel.org.pl; State Art Collections, Wawel 5; 9.30am – 5pm Tues – Fri, 10am – 5pm Sat – Sun; entry: ` 220). GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM 2 This museum commemorates Jewish victims of the Holocaust and celebrates Jewish culture and the history of the former region of Galicia. It has an impressive photographic exhibition depicting modern-day remnants of southeastern Poland’s once-thriving Jewish community, called Traces of Memory (00-48-12-4216842; www.galiciajewishmuseum.org; Dajwór 18; 10am – 7pm; entry: ` 300).
HISTORY
Galicia Jewish Museum leads guided tours of Jewish sites in Kazimierz
MUSEUM OF PHARMACY 3 While the name doesn’t make it sound that exciting, the Jagiellonian University Medical School’s museum is one of the largest exhibitions of its kind in Europe. It features a 22,000-piece collection, which includes antique laboratory equipment, rare pharmaceutical instruments, heaps of glassware, stoneware, mortars, jars, barrels, medical books and documents (00-48-12421-9279; www.muzeumfarmacji. uj.edu.pl; ul Florianska 25; 12pm – 6.30pm Tues, 9.30am – 3pm Wed – Sun; entry: ` 260).
BASILICA OF ST FRANCIS 4 Duck into the dark basilica on a sunny day to admire the artistry of Stanisław Wyspianski, who designed the fantastic Art Nouveau stained-glass windows. The multicoloured deity in the chancel above the organ loft is a masterpiece. From the transept, you can also enter the Gothic cloister of the Franciscan monastery to admire fragments of 15th-century frescoes (00-48-12-422-5376; www.franciszkanska.pl; Plac Wszystkich Swiétych 5; 10am – 4pm, 1.15pm – 4pm Sun and holidays). KOSCIUSZKO MOUND 5 A huge mound, dedicated to the Polish (and American) military hero Tadeusz Kosciuszko, was erected between 1820 and 1823, soon after the great man’s death. It stands 34m high, and soil from the Polish and American battlefields where Kosciuszko fought was placed here. The memorial is in the suburb of Zwierzyniec, just under two
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The views over the city from Kosciuszko Mound are spectacular
miles west of the Old Town (00-48-12-425-1116; www. kopieckosciuszki.pl/en; al Waszyngtona 1; entry: ` 260). RYNEK UNDERGROUND 6 Beneath the market square, this fascinating attraction consists of an underground route through medieval market stalls. Buy tickets at an office on the western side of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice 21) (00-48-12-426-5060; www. podziemiarynku.com; Rynek Główny 1; 10am – 8pm; entry: ` 390).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
MINI GUIDE
Culture in Kraków, Poland GETTING AROUND
See
Eat & drink
Sleep
ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Lufthansa, SWISS, KLM, Air India and other airlines fly regularly to Kraków from all major Indian metros (return fares from ` 52,000). THE COST LOW
HIGH
DIFFICULTY OF TRAVEL LOW
HIGH
WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Kraków is from March to May and September to November, when the weather is pleasant.
FOOD 7
A perfect combination of excellent Polish and international mains and unfussy, relaxed service. Dine downstairs in an evocative cellar, or in the secluded garden. The quality of the cooking rivals the best in this part of the city. Reservations are recommended (00-48-12-654-8353; www. sasiedzi.oberza.pl; Miodowa 25; 12pm – 10pm Mon – Thur, 1, 2pm – 11pm Fri – Sun; mains from ` 300). ART RESTAURANT
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Easily the most ambitious restaurant in this part of town, the Art is all white linens and swish service, but forget any notion of fusty food. The menu highlights farm-fresh ingredients and local sourcing, with plenty of unusual touches like redpepper jam served with lamb saddle (00-48-12-7337-40690; www.artrestauracja.com/eng; Kanonicza 15; 1pm – 4pm, 6pm –11pm; five course meal from ` 1,500).
Try the goose leg confit at Sasiedzi
MIÓD MALINA
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The charmingly-named Honey Raspberry serves high-quality Polish cooking in colourful surrounds. Grab a window seat and order the wild mushrooms in cream, and any of the duck or veal dishes. There’s a variety of beef steaks on the menu as well. The grilled sheep’s-cheese appetiser, served with cranberry jelly, is a regional speciality. Reservations are essential(00-48-12-430-0411; www.miodmalina.pl; Grodzka 40; 12pm – 11pm; mains from ` 830).
A well-maintained hostel located between the Old Town and Kazimierz, Mundo Hostel 10 offers a friendly welcome. Each room’s decor is based on a different country (00-48-12422-6113; www.mundohostel.eu; Józefa Sarego 10; from ` 1,860). The charming historic Hotel Pugetów 11 stands next to the 19th-century neo-Renaissance palace of the same name. It offers seven rooms, all with distinct identities (00-48-12-432-4950; www.donimirski.com/hotelpugetow/en; Starowislna 15a; from ` 4,500). Located at the foot of Wawel Castle and overlooking the Vistula River, Hotel Pod Wawelem 12 gets high marks for crisp, up-to-date design and an excellent breakfast buffet (00-48-12-426-2626; www. hotelpodwawelem.pl/en-gb; plac Na Groblach 22; from ` 4,600).
EMBASSY ALERT
Embassy of India, Warsaw, Poland www.indianembassywarsaw. gov.in
Mundo Hostel grants you easy access to the Old Town
FANCY A CURRY
Taste of India Restaurant serves up authentic Indian dishes. The service is quick and friendly, adding an all-round pleasant experience (00-48-12-422-1812; www.tasteofindia.com.pl; 12pm – 10pm Sun – Thur, 12pm – 11pm Fri – Sat; lunch thali: ` 250).
VISA
Apply for a Schengen or ‘C’ visa, which takes seven working days to process (www.e-konsulat.gov. pl; ` 4,900). For more details, log on to www.lonelyplanet.com
COMPILED BY CATRIONA GREW, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MARK BAKER AND AISHWARYA MENON. PHOTOGRAPH: MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET. PHOTOS ARE FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. CURRENCY AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT: 1 POLISH ZLOTY (PLN) = ` 18.33
SASIEDZI
SLEEP