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DECEMBER 2019 / JANUARY 2020 BEAUTY REPORTER 20 Celestial eye makeup 22 How does J.Lo’s 25th fragrance stack up against her first? • Latina-owned beauty lines 24 The oud supremacy • Festival-inspired candles 28 Flowers of London 30 Q & A with Rachel Brosnahan • A sneak peek at January’s Allure Beauty Box 32 Editors’ Favorites 34 BareMinerals’ latest foundation • A new dry shampoo NEWS & TRENDS 40 Sphere of Influence. La Vie de Jeanne. The big business of French beauty. 49 Modern Wellness. Office Space. What are the self-care benefits of working from home? Two Allure editors share their experiences. 55 Phenomenon. Uncommon Goods. Royalapproved beauty. 66 Gift Guide. Objects of Desire. Your go-to resource for holiday shopping. 78 Background Beauty. Drawing Lines. How Azra Khamissa modernizes a 5,000-year-old art form.

JE NE SAIS QUOI

Meet Jeanne Damas, the influencer who turned her French It girl status into a lucrative business.

2 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

CRISTA LEONARD

82 Dream Kit. Makeup artist Daniel Martin spills his bag of tricks.

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California beauty reimagined by makeup artist Violette and her partner, photographer Steven Pan Off-White blazer and top. Makeup colors: Art Library: It’s Designer palette, Eye Brow Styler in Stud, and Clear Lip Glass by MAC. Details, see allure.com/credits.

FEATURES 84 The Sky’s the Limit. Zendaya has been in front of the camera for a good part of her life. The actor gets candid about privacy, tattoos, and not wanting to be boxed in. By Jessica Chia 92 All Points East. Could injectables be the next K-beauty export? By Devon Abelman 96 The Best Spas in the World. The six beauty destinations that will change you inside and out. 104 City of Angels. Makeup artist Violette creates five different makeup looks inspired by Los Angeles. 110 Taking the Short Cut. The power of short hair. By Liana Schaffner REGULARS 8 Michelle’s Most Wanted 16 Editor’s Letter 18 Cover Look 61 Beauty by Numbers 114 One More Thing

4 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

ON THE COVER Tommy x Zendaya jacket, turtleneck, and earrings. Makeup colors: Hypnôse 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Bleu Hypnôtique, Le Monochromatique in S’il Vous Plait, and L’Absolu Rouge Ruby Lipstick in Vintage Ruby by Lancôme. Photographed by Miguel Reveriego. Fashion stylist: Law Roach. Hair: Larry Sims. Makeup: Sheika Daley. Manicure: Nettie Davis. Production: JN Production.

Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of ALLURE, published monthly (11 issues), for October 1, 2019. Publication No. 006-904. Annual subscription price $16.00. 1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 3. The names and addresses of the Chief Business Officer, Editor and Managing Editor are: Chief Business Officer, Susan Plagemann, One World Trade Center, NY, New York 10007. Editor in Chief, Michelle Lee, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Director of Editorial Operations, Amanda Meigher, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers, Inc., published through its Condé Nast division, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, NY 10305. 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. 6. Extent and nature of circulation Average No. Copies each issue during preceding 12 months Single Issue nearest to filing date a. Total No. Copies 1,227,430 1,241,074 b. Paid Circulation (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid 857,015 875,123 Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) Mailed In-County Paid 0 0 Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the 15,268 11,835 Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® (4) Paid Distribution by Other 0 0 Classes of Mail Through the USPS c. Total Paid Distribution 872,283 886,959 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate 297,912 310,925 Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541 (2) Free or Nominal Rate 0 0 In-County Copies included on PS Form 3541 (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies 0 0 Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS (4) Free or Nominal Rate 7,713 7,541 Distribution Outside the Mail e. Total Free or Nominal Rate 305,625 318,466 Distribution f. Total Distribution 1,177,908 1,205,425 g. Copies Not Distributed 49,522 35,649 h. Total 1,227,430 1,241,074 i. Percent Paid 74.05% 73.58% j. Paid Electronic Copies 17,004 18,520 k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) 889,287 905,479 + Paid Electronic Copies l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) 1,194,912 1,223,945 + Paid Electronic Copies m. Percent Paid (Both Print & 74.42% 73.94% Electronic Copies) 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) David Geithner, Vice President and Treasurer ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2019 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 29, NO. 11. December 2019/January 2020 issue. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7711) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-678-1825, or email subscriptions@allure.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com or call 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email permissions@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. 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STEVEN PAN

104

DULL, TIRED SKIN? FLIP THE SWITCH. MEET NEW BRIGHT BOOST.

*Surface Cells, In Laboratory Studies Â©J&JCI 2019

MICHELLE LEE

SUSAN D. PLAGEMANN

EDITOR IN CHIEF

CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER

NATHALIE KIRSHEH EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AMANDA MEIGHER

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ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITORS

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EDITOR AT L ARGE DANIELLE PERGAMENT

6 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

OF OPERATIONS KATHRYN

FRIEDRICH

Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content with a footprint of more than 1 billion consumers in 31 markets. condenast.com Published at 1 World Trade Center, New York NY 10007.

WORLDWIDE EDITIONS France: AD, AD Collector, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Collections, Vogue Hommes Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experienceis, Glamour, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired Mexico and Latin America: AD Mexico, Glamour Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Belleza, Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias Taiwan: GQ, Interculture, Vogue United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design, Vogue Business; Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, LOVE, Tatler, The World of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book, GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living Bulgaria: Glamour China: AD, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue, Vogue Film, Vogue Me Czech Republic and Slovakia: La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Germany: GQ Bar Berlin Greece: Vogue Hong Kong: Vogue Hungary: Glamour Iceland: Glamour Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired Poland: Glamour, Vogue Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto Romania: Glamour Russia: Tatler Club, Vogue Café Moscow Serbia: La Cucina Italiana South Africa: Glamour, Glamour Hair, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, House & Garden Gourmet Thailand: GQ, Vogue The Netherlands: Glamour, Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man, Vogue The Book Turkey: GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev

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AIR TRAVEL CAN DO A NUMBER ON YOUR ROUTINE. HERE ARE SOME OF THE IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS THAT KEEP ME GLOWY AND PREPARED FOR LANDING.

1 2

3 acid and vitamin C save valuable space. Pro tip: You can also presoak your own cotton pads in your favorite serums. $32 to $38 for 10.

4. CLARE V. MAKEUP BAG. Keep it all contained in something cuter than a plastic baggie. $165. 5. BITE BEAUTY MULTISTICK IN GELATO. A pretty wash of color for eyes, lips, and cheeks in one handy bullet. $24.

1. KITSCH EYE MASK. I’m a terrible airplane sleeper, but a chic satin mask (and headphones) can help drown out the commotion. $16. 2. GROWN ALCHEMIST HAND CREAM VANILLA & ORANGE PEEL. On germy planes I wash my hands often, so this antioxidant-rich hand cream gets plenty of use. $24 for 65 ml. 3. M-61 HYDRABOOST HA AND VITABLAST C SERUM PADS. Instead of lugging whole bottles of serums, these pads presoaked in hyaluronic

8 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

6. BEAUTYCOUNTER LIP CONDITIONER. Lips can feel particularly parched on planes, so I love this balm, formulated with shea butter and avocado oil. $22. 7. JURLIQUE SWEET VIOLET & GRAPEFRUIT HYDRATING MIST. A refreshing, citrusscented spritz that comes in a TSA-friendly 50-ml size. $32.

8. SLIP SCRUNCHIES. These luxurious silk hair ties won’t tug on or crease hair, so you can avoid bed head while exiting the aircraft. $39 for three.

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

BEYOND ROMANCE RALPH LAUREN

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CREATED BY ALLURE FOR L’ORÉAL PARIS

YOUR

Skin-Care

SUPERHERO

It’s been recommended by dermatologists for decades to treat lines, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. So why isn’t everyone and their mother (and sister, and niece) using it daily? We get it—there’s a lot of skin-care info out there, and about a bazillion products on the shelves. We’re here to break it down for you: Glycolic acid is a necessary ingredient to have in your regimen if you’re looking to reduce wrinkles and dark spots and even skin tone. Read on to ﬁnd out what it is, why derms (and Allure editors!) love it, and how you can get it in your life for a fraction of the cost of the more expensive serums out there.

CREATED BY ALLURE FOR L’ORÉAL PARIS

TIP: Apply the serum at night, and be sure to use sunscreen, such as L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power SPF 30 Lotion, in the morning— your skin will be more sun-sensitive the next day.

ALLURE’S GUIDE TO

GLYCOLIC ACID

(AND THE ONE MUST-HAVE PRODUCT YOU CAN USE DAILY!) WHAT IT IS: A kind of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), like lactic acid, with the smallest molecules of any of its brethren. That’s a great quality to have in a skin-care ingredient, because it means the formula can go into your skin to do its powerful smoothing, resurfacing work. WHAT IT DOES: Glycolic acid is ﬁrst and foremost an exfoliator, which means it resurfaces your skin by removing dead and hyperpigmented cells from the surface of skin, leaving fresh, radiant skin behind. And you won’t have to use it for months on end before seeing results: With L’Oréal Paris’s new formula, dark spots can be visibly reduced starting in as little as two weeks, and ﬁne lines and wrinkles in four (talk about multitasking!). And the longer you use the serum, the better results you’ll see. HOW TO GET IT: Next time you’re in the skin-care aisle at your local supermarket or drugstore, look for L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure

Glycolic Acid Serum. Don’t be scared about the word “acid”—go ahead and add this potent new serum to your routine. It has the highest concentration of glycolic acid you can get at home. It’s safe for all skin types, even sensitive, thanks to skin-soothing aloe. And for only $23.99 a bottle, it’s one of the most cost-effective things you can do for your skin. WHY YOU SHOULD TRUST IT: Glycolic acid is one of the top skin-care ingredients recommended by dermatologists. In fact, before adding any product to the Derm Intensives line, L’Oréal Paris meets with ﬁve top derms to validate the ingredients, formula, and product efﬁcacy. After evaluating L’Oréal Paris’s third-party testing protocols and results, the derms unanimously have to give the thumbs up in order to grant L’Oréal their seal of approval. And if that sounds good to you, check out the other products in the Derm Intensives line, like the best-selling 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

E D I T O R T H E F R O M

When I first started at Condé Nast more than 20 years ago, I was an intern at Glamour at 350 Madison Avenue. Four years ago, when I walked back into the company’s offices for my first day at Allure—this time at 1 World Trade Center—I was struck by a familiar scent. In an entirely different building in an entirely different decade, I was immediately drawn back to memories of those early days. I don’t think it’s one particular fragrance per se, but rather a sweet blend of hundreds of perfumes in the beauty closets of different magazines wafting through the hallways. It’s no secret that scent has a powerful connection to memory. Unlike sound and touch, smell is processed in an area of the brain that has a direct connection to the amygdala, which plays a role in emotional memories. Today, when I travel, I try to take advantage of this. If I’m staying at a hotel that has a signature candle, I’ll buy one for home. Pro tip: The Edition hotels have some of the best candles, which were created in partnership with Le Labo. Whenever I light mine, it instantly transports me to the time and place of my stay. The effect doesn’t have to arise from a resort’s signature scent. When I was in Spain this summer, we sun-dried our own sea salt in Majorca, then went to a little shop near where we ate dinner to buy flor de sal harvested from the same Ses Salines salt flats. When I popped open the canister back at home, my kids shouted, “It smells like Majorca!” Every morning I sprinkle a few of the chunky crystals on my eggs and have a little Spanish vacation. In Tokyo last summer, my daughter and I treated ourselves one afternoon to tea at the Peninsula hotel. Now, the scent of not only jasmine tea but also jasmine fragrances brings me half a world away to that fancy dining room, nibbling on tiny sandwiches and cakes. Our out-of-office issue celebrates global beauty in all its rich diversity. If the essence of travel is discovery, the thrill of new experiences, then collecting those memories is one of its lasting rewards. Sometimes the best way to go is to follow your nose.

EMILY LIPSON

L E T T E R

scents memory

16 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

L O O K

Makeup artist Sheika Daley applies finishing touches as Zendaya’s assistant protects her from the sun.

ready for About an hour and a half east of Venice Beach, beneath the imposing gaze of Mount

down the day for us.

BAGGAGE CHECK

being around family.”

18 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

Two of our favorite accessories from Zendaya’s capsule collection with Tommy Hilfiger. (The look she wears on the cover is a limited-run sample, but these are available now.) Details, see allure.com/credits.

had put together a moodboard—a skeleton of what they wanted us to accomplish—but they allowed us to apply our own interpretation. Zendaya, Law [Roach, the fashion stylist], Sheika, and I looked at different shapes. Zendaya has a great eye. She’d say, ‘Okay, let’s do it this way, let’s add this.’” Daley: “They wanted us to home in on the ’70s, so we pulled up some references from that era, and we all liked these color-washed eyes. I custom-made this color that fit her skin tone and the clothes. I’m all about customization—I never use anything right from the pan—so we blended a few shadows together for the eye. Then the blush—it was major. We wanted it to be more of Madonna, pop era, Cyndi Lauper, where they wore their blush in the contour of their cheeks rather than the apple. I mixed a few—a fuchsia base, adding pink and peach as a gradient up toward the eyes.” Sims: “I think the edginess and OTT of the hair lends itself to that super blue lid. Sheika and I sometimes push each other’s buttons, but I’ll always ask her what she thinks. For the look before this one, we had a big, kind of deconstructed Mohawk. And then, using spray and pins, we just flattened it. That was actually Zendaya’s idea. So I pulled it out on the sides, almost into a triangle. I got the wig custom-made just for this, but her natural hair texture has this sheen to it. I used a hair oil and Osis+ hair spray.” Daley: “We really have grown with Zendaya. When I met her, she was 15 years old and had a baby face. She’s really coming into her own now. Her face has changed; her body has changed.” Sims: “She’s such a chameleon and a risk-taker. Fearless. And she’s not afraid of looking awkward, either. [Laughs.]”

FROM TOP LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; MIGUEL REVEREIGO; COURTESY OF BRAND; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)

C O V E R

THE ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY Lancôme’s Hypnôse 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Bleu Hynôtique (left) and the brand’s L’Absolu Rouge Ruby Cream Lipstick in Vintage Ruby and Le Monochromatique cheek (or eye, or even lip!) color in S’il Vous Plait (below).

3 SECONDS TO FLAWLESS ROOTS Eva Longoria

MAGIC ROOT COVER UP ■ QUICK AND EASY GRAY COVERAGE ■ LIGHTWEIGHT, QUICK-DRY FORMULA NO RESIDUE OR STICKINESS ■ LASTS UNTIL YOUR NEXT SHAMPOO ■ IN 8 SHADES AFTER

* SIMULATION *L’Oréal calculation based in part on data reported by Nielsen through its Retail Index Service for the Root Cover Up (Client-deﬁned) for the 52-week period ending December 2018, for consolidation of 40 countries. Nielsen has no responsibility for third-party data relating to Australia, France, Italy, Japan and the Netherlands. © 2018 The Nielsen Company. © 2019 L’Oréal USA, Inc.

BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™

The sky’s the limit with vivid shadows like ColourPop Pressed Powder Shadow in Take Flight (top right) and Bobbi Brown Luxe Eye Shadow Rich

R E P O R T E R

THIS SEASON’S FORECAST We’re all in favor of dressing for the weather you want, not the weather you have—or at least matching your makeup to it. These surreal, dreamy looks at Mansur Gavriel’s fall 2019 presentation were created by makeup artist Romy Soleimani, who thinks the looks work because of “the juxtaposition of painterly eyes with fresh, glowing skin.” Once you decide on the weather you want to wear, use a tiny brush with a tiny amount of product on it, says Soleimani. Here, she layered powder shadows and MAC Acrylic Paint. Don’t overthink it, though: It’s fun, inspired, and right as rain (or shine). —PAIGE STABLES

20 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; ADAM KATZ SINDING/COURTESY OF BOBBI BROWN; COURTESY OF BOBBI BROWN

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BRILLIANT THINKING Like many Latinxs, I love beauty—bright, bold, fragrant beauty—as much as I love dancing. (In other words: a lot.) So while I’m not surprised to see more and more vibrant Latinx-owned beauty brands come across my desk, I’m definitely thrilled. Here are stars from four of my favorites: 1. ALAMAR COSMETICS COLORETE BLUSH TRIO IN DARK/ RICH. These silky powders have major color payoff—and we love them on our lids as much as our cheeks. 2. MOMIJI EYE SHINE BRIGHTENING EYE PATCHES. Scoop out one of these serum-soaked patches to depuff (with caffeine) and moisturize (with ceramides) that delicate undereye area for an at-home spa day. 3. VERVAN ALMOND & LAVENDER HAND CREAM. An unlikely pairing, lavender and almond essential oils combine to create a soothing scent that won’t overwhelm. And the formula itself is rich but sinks in quickly. 4. REINA REBELDE REBEL EYE DEFINER LIQUID IN BONITA BANDERA. Ditch the black eyeliner and grab this indigo one. The fine-tip applicator lets you create a whisper of a line or a powerful cat eye. —GABRIELA THORNE

2 3

lo and behold Jennifer Lopez has had a stellar year. There was her global tour, the starring role in Hustlers, that little runway moment in a very familiar green dress. And then she released a new fragrance—her 25th. So we thought we’d see how this new scent, Promise, compares to the Glow that started it all.

Glow by JLo NAMESAKE Lopez was hoping to capture the “scent of bare, glowing skin warmed by the heat of the body.”

Inspiration struck at a dinner with billionaire investor Warren Buffett. “He said, ‘A brand is a promise,’ and that resonated with me,” Lopez told us.

BOTTLE SERVICE With the bottle’s long, thin neck and full base, not to mention dangling charm akin to a belly chain, the nod to the curves of a body cannot be missed.

The multifaceted cut glass and rose-gold cap have a weightiness that brings to mind the ultimate promise—a diamond ring.

TAKING NOTES Pear, jasmine, sandalwood, and amber

and vanilla

WORD ON THE STREET “I picture someone sexy in

test at a Manhattan bar for our Smell This column.

22 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

“It’s sweet and a bit thick. Like a bouclé jacket—not Chanel, but still one you’d wear to dress up.” —Elise Keeney, digital strategy director, whom we spritzed on the wrist.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (5); DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES; MARK MAINZ/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF BRAND

B E A U T Y

R E P O R T E R

oud la la

Clockwise from top: Amouage Library Collection Opus XI, Merhis Éclat, Amouage Epic, Widian Delma, and Amouage Beloved.

2. D.S. & DURGA RAMA WON’T YOU PLEASE COME HOME. Lord Rama, an incarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu, was forced into exile from his kingdom. His people welcomed him back with lamps, hence this creation, which smells like the flowers indigenous to India. 1

24 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

3. L’OR DE SERAPHINE VARANASI. The idea of this Diwali-inspired candle came from a trip to Varanasi, India. “The notes—musk, florals, and incense—are symbolic of [one of] India’s most important holidays,” says cofounder Dara Weiss. —BRENNAN KILBANE

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

B E A U T Y

Close your eyes and think of the Middle East. Think of the mosques and the deserts, the mezze, hammams, and markets. Inhale (your eyes are still closed, by the way). That scent? That warm, heady scent you’re imagining? It’s oud. Known colloquially as “liquid gold” (it can sell for $1,000 an ounce), the fragrant resin of oud is what happens when the Southeast Asian aquilaria tree is infected with a certain fungus. For centuries fragrance has played a fundamental role in dressing in the Middle East, and oud has remained at the very core, traditionally applied behind the ears and at pulse points and often layered with other scents. “You can say that everyone has their own scent here because everyone is layering,” says Julien Rasquinet, a perfumer at International Fragrances & Flavors’ Fine Fragrance Creative Center in Paris. Now fragrance houses out of the Arabian Peninsula are using the scent in their own ways. Amouage Epic combines oud with amber musk, and Widian Delma mixes oud with jasmine and geranium. Merhis Éclat is a blend of rose, orange blossom, and amber, assuming you’ll layer on oud yourself. “Perfume in the Middle East is adopting a French structure, which is less animalic, but they still want it strong,” says Rasquinet. And understandably so: This is your best accessory—you want it to last. —COTTON CODINHA

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We visited the intersection of environmental consciousness and gorgeous fragrances. Turns out, it’s in London.

28 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

barb. Or London Poppy, which combines the cheery bloom of sunflowers with black amber and tops them off with salt spray. But the real draw might be that you can actually smell these fragrances on the skin for more than 15 minutes. They endure. That’s because each bottle contains 20 percent perfume oil, which is on the very high end (eau de parfums typically range between 15 and 20). The Chelsea Flower Show only lasts a few days and then the flowers find new homes. But Floral Street’s storefront, in the cobblestone district Covent Garden, stays in full bloom all year. —JESSICA CHIA

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: GETTY IMAGES (5); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)

ton, all fairy tale’d out with wild strawberries and a tree house. I’ve been in London for about five hours, four of which I’ve spent here at the Chelsea Flower Show. And so far, I’ve learned this much: The Brits love their gardens. And Floral Street, a new-to-theU.S. British fragrance company, loves gardens too. Enough that its perfumes aren’t just botanically inspired. Each glass bottle is sold in a pulp box that can be recycled or composted. And the body washes and creams (for now, only the perfumes are available in the U.S.) come in candy-colored tubes made from a recyclable by-product of sugar cane production. For better or worse, this level of sustainability in packaging is so novel to the perfume industry that Floral Street won an innovation award from the Fragrance Foundation this year. Inside, the goods are equally impressive. The nine scents were created by perfumer Jerome Epinette

Above: the annual Chelsea Flower Show. Below, clockwise from top left, in their rubber-band-bound compostable boxes: Floral Street’s Chypre Sublime, Ylang Ylang Espresso, London Poppy, and Wild Vanilla Orchid. Far left: a bottle of Iris Goddess.

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Rachel Brosnahan has taken the couch-sitting public by storm and has the hardware to prove it—she’s won an Emmy and two Golden Globes for her performance in The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. We talked to her about drugstore beauty, the fight for equality in Hollywood, and, of course, high school wrestling. On gaining confidence: “In high school, I convinced my parents to let me try wrestling. I loved how strong I felt and how difficult the workouts were. It was the hardest thing I’ve ever done. And it was one of the earliest examples I have of men and women being capable of the same kinds of things, no matter what anyone says.”

On drugstore buys: “I’ve been using Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser [below right] since I was 16. [Brosnahan is now a spokesperson for the brand.] When I travel my skin gets dry, so I use it without water and take it off with a cotton pad. It leaves my skin really

soft. And I’m obsessed with Maybelline New York Mega Plush Volum’ Express Mascara. It has a fat, caterpillar-looking brush, and it does everything. It’s like wearing false lashes.” On keeping up appearances: “While I’m working on Maisel, we have a manicurist who comes once a week, so my nails are in the best shape they’ve ever been in. On my own, I would never have time to get a manicure once a week. I’ll paint my own nails with Essie Chinchilly [below left].” On experimenting: “I used to be very intimidated by beauty. But recently I’ve enjoyed playing with lipstick. In the morning, throwing on a bold lip can make you look more awake and also feel more awake.” On doing the work: “We’re having a resurgence of the conversation surrounding women’s rights. And it’s important for me to choose projects that include that as a theme. TV is doing a great job showing intimate and fulfilling female friendships, but I think that film and theater have some catching up to do.” —COTTON CODINHA

30 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

spoiler alert

FAST FACIAL

I love a mask, but I don’t always have time for one. That’s why the Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment fits perfectly into my world. I massage the slime-green formula on my face in the shower—the steam helps it work—and the mix of physical (silica) and chemical (AHAs and fruit enzymes) exfoliators gently sloughs away dead skin. It also has honey and aloe to soothe, so my sensitive skin doesn’t get irritated. After letting it sit for two minutes, I rinse it off and my complexion is noticeably brighter. —KATHLEEN SUICO The January Allure Beauty Box includes Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment along with six other products. ($10 for the first month, then $15; allure.com/beautyreporter)

NICE AND EASY: “I like to keep my skin-care routine really, really simple. I love Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum. I like that you can use it with or without a moisturizer.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: VICTORIA STEVENS/AUGUST IMAGES; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF BRANDS (3)

R E P O R T E R B E A U T Y

the rise of rachel Q + A

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in the light of the next full moon.

5. Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask.

Designed to plump lips overnight (but damn pretty for daytime too), this pink-tinged jelly keeps lips pillowsoft. It hydrates with camellia oil and Japanese peach extract. (Available December 26.)

6. Dove 0%

2. Tower 28 Beauty ShineOn Lip Jelly. Imagine

3. L’Oréal Paris Elvive 8 Second Wonder Water.

All the benefits of a hydrating hair mask with none of the weight—or wait. This light, post-shampoo rinse instantly seals moisture into hair for a silky shine.

32 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

Eau de Parfum.

The bottle is just everything—that is, until you open it. That’s the scent of lavender, orange blossom, amber, and sex. JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

the perfect glossy Popsicle-stained lip color. Now imagine it without the stickiness. Here you go (shown in Fear Less, Fire, and XOXO).

R E P O R T E R

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30 shades (your match remains safe), the Original Liquid Mineral Foundation—set to launch in 2020—brings the same iron oxide pigment and buildable luminous finish but with more skin-refining extras (squalane, peptides, and prickly pear extract) to hydrate and smooth skin over time. And like the original Original, it meets the Allure Clean Standard. Some things never change. —KATHLEEN SUICO

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NO SW E AT You know who drives me nuts? Those girls who show up to a morning barre class with a fresh blowout and somehow leave with their hair still looking good. That is, until I became one of them. It was all thanks to five words: Dove’s GoActive Dry Shampoo Wipes. These single-use, biodegradable wipes are perfect for that postworkout moment when roots are too damp for dry shampoo but not dirty enough to wash. I blot the wipes on small sections—along my hairline and around the nape of my neck—to absorb oil and reduce odor. All that’s left is a light floral scent...and a very intact blowout. —K. S. 34 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF BRAND

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The “Rachel,” Vamp nail polish, the Wonderbra—all very on trend in the mid-’90s. Not so much: anything sold on QVC. That is, until BareMinerals founder Leslie Blodgett decided she was going to make “mineral makeup” a thing and she was going to do it on your TV at 2 a.m. Her five-ingredient powder foundation sold out immediately—and you are all obsessed with it (this is a fact: Between 2007 and 2018, it won 12 Allure Readers’ Choice Awards). Twenty-five years later, liquid diehards will soon have their own Original. Formulated in the same

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MEET THE INFLUENCER WHO HAS TURNED A NARROW FRENCH BEAUTY IDEAL INTO A LUCRATIVE BUSINESS, EXPORTING A SPECIFIC EUROPEAN LIFESTYLE TO THE REST OF THE WORLD. IF THAT SOUNDS PROBLEMATIC TO YOU, YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK AT THE WORLD THROUGH JEANNE-COLORED GLASSES. BY BRENNAN KILBANE

Ever the brand advocate, Damas wears Rouje’s Le Velours lip color in Hélène, Le Vernis nail polish in Effrontée, and the Rosalie dress.

40 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

photographed by crista leonard

GROOMING: ELISE DUCROT. SITTINGS EDITOR: MARINE BRAUNSCHVIG.

I N F L U E N C E O F S P H E R E

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I N F L U E N C E O F S P H E R E

rench girls! They ride their bikes to le marché and buy le pain and maybe a little vin rouge for dinner avec leurs copines, and then they go on long walks, maybe smoke a cigarette (for that is how they maintain the silhouette of la baguette), and gyms are so américaine, non? French girls simply wake up looking like they are about to roll into an Agnès B. campaign: lips red but not too red, bangs hanging over eyebrows, which are never plucked, are you kidding? Ze French girls simply do not care! And as a result, we, the non-French girls, care very much, and French girls are reaping our investment to the tune of tripling profits year over year. C’est vrai! “You ask about financials?” Jeanne Damas asks. Her lips, honest to God, form a perfect heart shape around the filter of a hand-rolled cigarette. She takes the duration of an inhale to consider divulging specific numbers about her business, and her answer finally arrives in a plume of smoke she exhales into the brisk Parisian afternoon: “It’s really great. And fast.” How great and how fast? The specifics of Damas’s business are not disclosed. But in 2016, the model and influencer launched her own fashion brand, Rouje, as in rouge, as in red, as in the shade of lipstick (the j is for Jeanne). And last year, Rouje launched beauty, with a best-selling lip product that retails for more than twice the price of a tube of MAC Ruby Woo, and three days prior to our meeting, Rouje opened its first store—with an adjoining restaurant— not far from the cartographic center of Paris. Business has, according to Damas, nearly tripled every year since the brand’s conception—without one euro of outside investment. So yes, business is really great. And fast! In her native country, Damas is what is known as an It girl, a term applied to a gorgeous young person who is gorgeous and young, and whom magazines love to interview about their personal routines, and whom fashion designers love to dress up in their clothes, and whom non-Its find pleasure in observing. In America, Damas is a French It girl, patron saint of a particular beauty ideal: that of the French girl. And it’s a quantifiable export. Alongside France, America and the U.K. comprise Rouje’s largest markets, with Japan trailing just behind. If there are obvious arguments to problematize the whole French-girl obsession—particularly that it upholds a Eurocentric standard of beauty—it’s either lost on or ignored by Rouje’s ravenous public. It is true that in 2019, there are more consumer options than ever for people who do not fit the mold of a young woman whose every physical attribute is young, thin, and straight. But that part earlier about Rouje’s profits tripling every year for the last three years? Also true.

42 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

“It was not the plan,” says Damas, wearing a blazer that is both too large and fits perfectly, smoking a cigarette (again) at a café beneath the woolly sky of Paris. “I did not study fashion. But my…parcours?” The English word escapes her, so she turns to her agent to clarify. “Your career path?” he offers. “Yeah. My way? It’s because...of people I meet?” She’s looking for an English word that escapes her. Then she pouts. “I want to speak French!” Damas confides many times that she is sensitive about her English, which is in fact spoken so beautifully that one is tempted to prevent her from learning the rest of the language. Her vowels are bright, round pearls strung together into sentences. Big ideas are described in simple terms— “great” and “fast”—and simple ideas are conveyed meaningfully, like when she describes a designer’s taste as his “envy,” her speech as ornate and precise as lace. The found poetry of non-English speakers speaking English. Damas was born in Paris to two restaurateurs—the family lived above their brasserie, using its sprawling kitchen to cook their meals. Petite Jeanne spent a lot of time in the restaurant, which was a favorite of people in the Parisian fashion world. “I was talking really a lot,” Damas says, her English held together by syrup-coated syllables. “They were calling me a”—she looks to her agent—“poissonnière?” A fishmonger! “Because you know, in the market. Ah, my fish!” She waves toward the street, mimicking somebody drawing a crowd’s attention, dazzling them into a transaction. “And I was also so—I’m really a girl’s girl, like a...sorority is really important. I was never jealous of girls, but more admirative of girls. I think it’s really important to help [the h in help completely disappears] each other [“eech uzzer”]. It was really important to...rencontre. How do you say rencontre?” She means to meet, but maybe more like to bond? About 10 years ago, pre-Instagram, Damas began doing her bonding with fellow fashion folk on Tumblr. At the time, she was documenting her life in Paris, and most of the photos archived online depict intimate, gossamer scenes with friends and without context—snapshots that we would liken to “moods” or “vibes” had we possessed that vernacular in 2009. By the time she began Instagramming in 2012, Damas was a Paris fashion-scene fixture. And then America found her.

is difficult to pinpoint exactly when the fascination with French-girl everything became a raison d’être. French fashion arrived on the global stage toward the middle of the 20th century, dovetailing with the French New Wave movement, whose stars (Brigitte Bardot, Anouk Aimée, Anna Karina) still comprise the pantheon of French-girl-ness. Besides their thinness and their whiteness and their alpine cheekbones and their clearly delineated lower lashes, the physical characteristics of each vary (slightly!), which creates the illusion of embracing individual beauty that has underscored the myth of the French girl ever since. It’s aspirational but accessible, like everything else we are buying in 2019. Damas entered the American influencer market as its French ambassador. Harper’s Bazaar, 2015: Damas issues her first American proclamation on French-girl beauty. W, 2017: “Model Jeanne Damas embodies the effortlessly chic French girl look.” (This was published around the time that “French beauty” hit its search peak, according to Google Trends.) Refinery29, the same year: “She doesn’t fix her hair because she doesn’t have to.... She smokes, she drinks, she swears.” In 2019, Damas was interviewed for Vogue about Los Angeles, a city in which she does not live. “My favorite

yslbeauty.com

Lift here to experience MON PARIS

I N F L U E N C E O F S P H E R E Damas in (of course) lip-tosweaterdress Rouje

landmark to visit is the Hollywood sign,” she discloses. “Is there anything more iconic?” Of course, Damas is well aware that she is a walking American consumer fetish in the same way that a CEO has a financial obligation to examine their success in a foreign market. “It’s a cliché,” Damas says, shrugging. “But we play with this cliché. It’s because of it that I have success.” In the same breath, she warns that all Parisians are not the same, let alone all French people. Indeed, Paris has one of the largest concentrations of immigrants in Europe today—about 20 percent of the population (double that is second-generation). In the country as a whole, that number is closer to 10 percent, or 6 million people. But diversity is not the French-girl construct that sells. The girl that sells has roots in the Marais, not Morocco. Just over 40 percent of France today is overweight, but the

French girl’s silhouette? Always sylphlike. Her hair never Done, but always done. Damas’s hair is the color of 1.2 million Instagram followers, with bangs that lounge across her forehead like babes on holiday. Her lips are painted with 2.2 million YouTube views, and her cheeks are flushed with 60,000plus likes. She is dressed head to toe in Rouje: a thick red sweater tucked into high-waisted jeans and underlined with brown croc-embossed boots. Everything Rouje is Jeanne, and vice versa: Shoppers are not buying a pair of jeans or a lipstick—they are buying jeans cut to the precise geometry of her hips, they are buying the ideal balance of red and blue tones to complement her complexion, down to the freckles dusted across her nose like cinnamon on a café au lait. “The idea is to do my perfect closet every year,” she says.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 45

I N F L U E N C E O F S P H E R E

1912, the Galeries Lafayette was established in Paris’s 9th arrondissement, its broad windows designed to bathe the merchandise in sunlight, a magnificent Art Nouveau cathedral to trap the awe of incoming customers, and thousands of items to peruse under one roof. More than a century later and less than a mile away, Rouje is a sparse, whitewashed shrine to Damas—her tastes and whims packaged for sale and merchandised in situ, her lifestyle captured down to her favorite meals, which shoppers can inhale in exchange for a moderate price at the shop’s restaurant. Rouje’s beauty line, of course, is designed exclusively as a wardrobe for Damas—a gradient of reds (but only those she would wear) that exist both in bullet form and distilled into quadrisected palettes so you have to use your finger to apply them, which is very much by design. The effect of blotting lipstick on with a finger gives it a matte quality, so the finishes of each product do not buckle under the brightest of lights. Innovations in makeup have tended toward the luminescent, but according to Hélène Aubier, who heads up Rouje’s beauty team, the brand will only adopt new technology where it intersects with Damas’s interests. An ink-style lip product with a velvet finish, then, happily launched this fall. “[Manufacturers] won’t show me glitter or sparkling products,” Aubier gravely assures me. “They know Rouje.” Their best-selling products are Damas’s red lipstick and Damas’s palette of red lipsticks. The products are also dressed in gold, vintage-looking, Deco packaging designed to look like heirlooms, accessing yet another valence of

“It’s a cliché. But we play with this cliché. It’s because of it that I have success.”

ADVE RTISE ME NT

effortlessness, as if they were simply inherited from an impossibly chic aunt, as opposed to being vulgarly purchased in pursuit of vanity. In February, Rouje will launch its first mascara, a product that I am not allowed to observe but that appears on the lashes of Aubier, which shoot toward me from across a large wooden table.

Damas’s office, the scene is remarkably similar to that of an American startup— young people staring into MacBooks at shared tables, speaking quietly. At one point, Damas walks over to snap a photo of an upcoming collection before disappearing into an adjacent room to help out the styling team by standing in as their fit model. One decade ago, when Damas was 17, fashion lines were designed by people who had years of technical experience, and lifestyle brands were founded by Academy Award winners. Damas’s qualifications are fewer: She is radiant, and charming, and stylish, and extremely successful by any metric. Damas hypothesizes that her success comes from her honesty. “I’m living in Paris, and I didn’t fake it. I think also I’m really authentic. I’m really me. And I never change my style, I never follow trends, so people like that, I think. Also I think I have—I don’t know if it’s a talent, but I know I have a talent for communication. I also do photos, and I think I have an eye. I don’t know how I get it, maybe with the restaurant, with my life, with the people I met.” Late afternoon reaches across Paris as Damas and I say goodbye. I ask her a banal reporter’s question, the kind you throw out and don’t expect much in return: “What are you reading?” She tells me she’s just finished Stefan Zweig’s Marie Antoinette: The Portrait of an Average Woman, which served as the basis for the 1938 film. As the title suggests, the book argues that Antoinette was not inherently good or evil, but an ordinary person thrust into extraordinary political significance. Her crown was handed to her like a gift, Zweig writes, and she accepted it without question and without gravity: “She wanted to combine two things which are, in actual human experience, incompatible. She wanted to reign and at the same time to enjoy.” Et voilà.

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M O D E R N

W E L L N E S S

office

space SARAH OLIN

ASK ANYONE WHO COMMUTES TO AN OFFICE OR SITS IN A CUBICLE ALL DAY IF THEY’D RATHER WORK FROM HOME AND YOU’LL GET A RESOUNDING “HELL, YEAH.” BUT IS IT REALLY THE HOLY GRAIL OF EMPLOYMENT? TWO OF OUR COLLEAGUES TELL ALL. Traditional office plans of the last century—a mishmash of private offices and cubicles—are actively being deconstructed and retrofitted with open-plan workspaces. The setup, which may include those grab-any-one-you-want “hot desks” and designated meeting rooms, is meant to encourage collaboration and discourage hierarchy. And, let’s not forget, save employers lots of money by squeezing more employees into a tighter space. It’s why in many cities you’ll find a trendy coworking space on just about every corner. In fact, a recent survey estimated that by 2020, almost 2.2 million people worldwide are expected to work from coworking

spaces. But what if working smarter and better meant you never had to change out of your pajamas? According to the U.S. Census Bureau, 8 million people worked from home in 2017—and some studies show a dramatic rise in productivity. For our out-of-office issue, we decided to test the theory. Do those lucky work-from-home folks have an advantage? Or do they eat pie all day and forget how to interact with fellow humans? We asked two of Allure’s own to discuss the psychological and physical pros and cons of never coming to the office, and of course they did so via their preferred mode of communication, our instant messaging system.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 49

David DeNicolo 10:23 a.m. HOW DARE YOU!!! But that’s fair. Danielle Pergament 10:25 a.m. So what do you wear on a typical workday? David DeNicolo 10:26 a.m. I would call it ’90s athleisure: running pants, black T-shirt, gray hoodie. Danielle Pergament 10:28 a.m. Sometimes I forget I’m not invisible. Yesterday the dog walker walked in and I was in my underpants. David DeNicolo 10:29 a.m. That has happened to me. Boxers going out to check the mail.

Message Thread Danielle Pergament 10:18 a.m. So, David, who was president the last time you worked in an office? David DeNicolo 10:19 a.m. Full-time? Bill Clinton. Part-time: Obama. Are you going to ask what I’m wearing? Danielle Pergament 10:19 a.m. Yes! But first: Set a scene. Where are you sitting? David DeNicolo 10:22 AM I’m in my garden room, which is also a TV room and a spare bedroom, but I call it a garden room because I’m fancy. And because I have a couple of French garden prints on the walls. It’s a soft green. Natural light. Danielle Pergament 10:22 a.m. You sound like a middle-aged man in rural Connecticut.

50 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

According to a 2013 study published in PLOS One, hearing just one side of a conversation can be more distracting than hearing the whole thing. Loneliness can have profound consequences on human health. Julianne Holt-Lunstadt, a professor of psychology and neuroscience at Brigham Young University, has found deprivation of social interaction to have a mortality risk comparable to smoking up to 15 cigarettes a day.

I LOVE the physical freedom. One time, I called into a meeting and decided to do some squats. All of a sudden the meeting stopped cold and someone said, “David, can you please mute your phone? We can all hear you breathing.” Danielle Pergament 10:31 a.m. I clip my nails in our weekly meeting. David DeNicolo 10:31 a.m. You can’t overestimate the benefits of making your own time choices and environment choices. I’m a pacer, and I also find that I need distraction in order to be productive. I usually have CNN on low when I’m working. Danielle Pergament 10:32 AM Oh, funny. Me, never. I can’t handle TV sounds and noises. Danielle Pergament 10:32 a.m. What’s the longest you’ve gone without seeing another person? David DeNicolo 10:33 a.m. I see people every day, in one way or another. Danielle Pergament 10:35 a.m. Something that’s now occurring to me: I don’t know a lot of the people I’m emailing and messaging every day. So when they drive me nuts, I don’t have a visual.

Color studies equate certain shades with psychological responses. Sunlight can boost serotonin, red may improve concentration, and blues may inspire creativity.

SARAH OLIN

M O D E R N

W E L L N E S S

have been shown to help creativity, according to a 2012 study published in the Journal of Consumer Research.

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David DeNicolo 10:36 a.m. That’s funny. I don’t need a picture to focus my displeasure. The challenge for me is that I find I have to be more careful with the way I communicate with people since I’m not in person. I can get rather sarcastic and sometimes people find me abrasive, so I do try with people I don’t know to be a little more careful on emails or messages. Danielle Pergament 10:38 a.m. How long can you go without snacking? I procrastinate by staring at the refrigerator. David DeNicolo 10:38 a.m. I try to eat a proper lunch. I don’t have sweets in the house. So many offices run on sugar and caffeine.

work it

Danielle Pergament 10:41 a.m. I also shop. I bought my 119th sports bra today. Then I’m full of remorse. But I’m kind of working the whole time. I think I’m 35 percent more productive from home. I pulled over while I was driving to write a list of interview questions. Last night I filed all my copy for Allure Beauty Box at 1:00 a.m. That was a plus in my book. David DeNicolo 10:44 a.m. We all know the adage that work expands to fill the time allotted for its completion. I think that dynamic is magnified in an office and is less so at home. Danielle Pergament 10:45 a.m. My favorite thing about working from home is I’m so much more productive. I’m not fucking around talking to people or in meetings I don’t need to be in. Honest question: What do you miss about the office? David DeNicolo 10:47 a.m. I live alone, so I miss the camaraderie. Not gossip or snark or intrigue (yuck), but making people laugh. Everyone knows that laughter is therapeutic, but it also is bonding and makes people work better as a team. Danielle Pergament 10:48 a.m. Creative people are more creative when they’re around other creative people. It’s like playing with a better tennis player. I miss having smart people around. And high-speed internet.

52 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

Research shows an increase in self-reported productivity among WFH’ers. In a 2015 study, employees in Shanghai who worked from home for two years reported a 13 percent increase in effective performance.

Noise-canceling headphones are crucial. Even WeWork, the most gung-ho proponent of shared coworking spaces, promotes them on their website. The ones that use active noise-canceling technology eliminate ambient noise, rather than soundproofing. Which means you can still engage in the hum of the shared space when you want to, but tune out when necessary. They sort of do what an office door used to: tell your coworkers now is not the time. It’d be no surprise to anyone who’s had to endure an open-plan workspace that a Global Info Research study found that the prevalence of these headphones worldwide will increase almost 6 percent in the next five years. An essential-oil desk diffuser is also more than a useful tool for combating the aroma of your coworker’s reheated salmon. “Lemon is really mind-clearing, but if you need to focus, try mixing lemon, rosemary, and cypress oils,” says Amy Galper, cofounder of the New York Institute of Aromatic Studies. To channel some calm, Galper suggests a blend of lavender, frankincense, and red mandarin. Should a desk diffuser be on the office’s banned-objects list, try dabbing a little on pulse points or on a napkin and inhaling deeply. Finally, wherever you work, bring in plants—they’ve been shown to boost moods and reduce stress and anxiety—and opt for a stand-up desk. Alternating between sitting and standing can help lower blood pressure and increase heart rate and even help with posture-related aches and pains. If installing a desk that can do both isn’t an option, put your laptop on a shelf or a sturdy stack of books to cut back on long stretches of sitting.

SARAH OLIN

No matter where you spend your 9 to 5—a kitchen table, an ever-changing hot desk, an old-school cubicle—there are ways to make your space, well, work better for you.

ECZEMA: UNDER CONTROL. SO ROLL UP THOSE SLEEVES. moderate-to-severe eczema (atopic dermatitis) for people 12 and up.

RHONDA, REAL PATIENT. Individual results may vary.

DUPIXENT is not a cream or steroid. It’s a biologic that continuously treats eczema over time—even between flare-ups when skin looks clear. See and feel the difference with:

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• In clinical trials at 16 weeks, 37% of adults and 24% of teens (ages 12-17) saw clear or almost clear skin vs 9% and 2% not on DUPIXENT. • And 38% of adults and 37% of teens (ages 12-17) had significantly less itch vs 11% and 5% not on DUPIXENT.

TALK TO YOUR ECZEMA SPECIALIST AND VISIT DUPIXENT.COM OR CALL 1-844-DUPIXENT (1-844-387-4936) INDICATION DUPIXENT is a prescription medicine used to treat people 12 years of age and older with moderate-to-severe atopic dermatitis (eczema) that is not well controlled with prescription therapies used on the skin (topical), or who cannot use topical therapies. DUPIXENT can be used with or without topical corticosteroids. It is not known if DUPIXENT is safe and effective in children with atopic dermatitis under 12 years of age. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION Do not use if you are allergic to dupilumab or to any of the ingredients in DUPIXENT. Before using DUPIXENT, tell your healthcare provider about all your medical conditions, including if you: have eye problems; have a parasitic (helminth) infection; are taking oral, topical, or inhaled corticosteroid medicines. Do not stop taking your corticosteroid medicines unless

instructed by your healthcare provider. and tell your healthcare provider or This may cause other symptoms that get emergency help right away if you were controlled by the corticosteroid get any of the following symptoms: medicine to come back; are scheduled breathing problems, fever, general to receive any vaccinations. You should ill feeling, swollen lymph nodes, not receive a “live vaccine” if you are swelling of the face, mouth and treated with DUPIXENT; are pregnant tongue, hives, itching, fainting, or plan to become pregnant. It is not dizziness, feeling lightheaded known whether DUPIXENT will harm (low blood pressure), joint pain, your unborn baby; are breastfeeding or skin rash. or plan to breastfeed. It is not known • Eye problems. Tell your healthcare whether DUPIXENT passes into your provider if you have any new or breast milk. worsening eye problems, including Tell your healthcare provider about eye pain or changes in vision. all the medicines you take, including The most common side effects in prescription and over-the-counter patients with atopic dermatitis medicines, vitamins and herbal include injection site reactions, eye supplements. If you are taking asthma and eyelid inflammation, including medicines, do not change or stop your redness, swelling and itching, and cold asthma medicine without talking to sores in your mouth or on your lips. your healthcare provider. Tell your healthcare provider if you DUPIXENT can cause serious side have any side effect that bothers you or effects, including: that does not go away. These are not all • Allergic reactions (hypersensitivity), the possible side effects of DUPIXENT. including a severe reaction known Call your doctor for medical advice as anaphylaxis. Stop using DUPIXENT about side effects. You are encouraged

YOU MAY BE ELIGIBLE FOR AS LITTLE AS A $0 COPAY*

to report negative side effects of prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch, or call 1-800-FDA-1088. Use DUPIXENT exactly as prescribed. DUPIXENT is an injection given under the skin (subcutaneous injection). If your healthcare provider decides that you or a caregiver can give DUPIXENT injections, you or your caregiver should receive training on the right way to prepare and inject DUPIXENT. Do not try to inject DUPIXENT until you have been shown the right way by your healthcare provider. In children 12 years of age and older, it is recommended that DUPIXENT be administered by or under supervision of an adult. Please see Brief Summary on next page.

*Limitations apply. Visit DUPIXENT.com for full program terms.

Brief Summary of Important Patient Information about DUPIXENT® (dupilumab) Rx Only (DU-pix’-ent) injection, for subcutaneous use What is DUPIXENT? • DUPIXENT is a prescription medicine used: – to treat people aged 12 years and older with moderate-to-severe atopic dermatitis (eczema) that is not well controlled with prescription therapies used on the skin (topical), or who cannot use topical therapies. DUPIXENT can be used with or without topical corticosteroids. • DUPIXENT works by blocking two proteins that contribute to a type of inflammation that plays a major role in atopic dermatitis. • It is not known if DUPIXENT is safe and effective in children with atopic dermatitis under 12 years of age. Who should not use DUPIXENT? Do not use DUPIXENT if you are allergic to dupilumab or to any of the ingredients in DUPIXENT. See the end of this summary of information for a complete list of ingredients in DUPIXENT. What should I tell my healthcare provider before using DUPIXENT? Before using DUPIXENT, tell your healthcare provider about all your medical conditions, including if you: • have eye problems • have a parasitic (helminth) infection • are taking oral, topical, or inhaled corticosteroid medicines. Do not stop taking your corticosteroid medicines unless instructed by your healthcare provider. This may cause other symptoms that were controlled by the corticosteroid medicine to come back. • are scheduled to receive any vaccinations. You should not receive a “live vaccine” if you are treated with DUPIXENT. • are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. It is not known whether DUPIXENT will harm your unborn baby. Pregnancy Registry. There is a pregnancy registry for women who take DUPIXENT during pregnancy. The purpose of this registry is to collect information about your health and your baby’s health. You can talk to your healthcare provider or contact 1-877-311-8972 or go to https://mothertobaby.org/ongoing-study/ dupixent/ to enroll in this registry or get more information. • are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known whether DUPIXENT passes into your breast milk. Tell your healthcare provider about all of the medicines you take including prescription and over-the-counter medicines, vitamins, and herbal supplements. If you have asthma and are taking asthma medicines, do not change or stop your asthma medicine without talking to your healthcare provider. How should I use DUPIXENT? • See the detailed “Instructions for Use” that comes with DUPIXENT for information on how to prepare and inject DUPIXENT and how to properly store and throw away (dispose of) used DUPIXENT pre-filled syringes. • Use DUPIXENT exactly as prescribed by your healthcare provider. • DUPIXENT comes as a single-dose pre-filled syringe with needle shield. • DUPIXENT is given as an injection under the skin (subcutaneous injection). • If your healthcare provider decides that you or a caregiver can give the injections of DUPIXENT, you or your caregiver should receive training on the right way to prepare and inject DUPIXENT. Do not try to inject DUPIXENT until you have been shown the right way by your healthcare provider. In children 12 years of age and older, it is recommended that DUPIXENT be administered by or under supervision of an adult. • If you miss a dose of DUPIXENT, give the injection within 7 days from the missed dose, then continue with the original schedule. If the missed dose is not given within 7 days, wait until the next scheduled dose to give your DUPIXENT injection. • If you inject more DUPIXENT than prescribed, call your healthcare provider right away. • Your healthcare provider may prescribe other medicines to use with DUPIXENT. Use the other prescribed medicines exactly as your healthcare provider tells you to.

What are the possible side effects of DUPIXENT? DUPIXENT can cause serious side effects, including: • Allergic reactions (hypersensitivity), including a severe reaction known as anaphylaxis. Stop using DUPIXENT and tell your healthcare provider or get emergency help right away if you get any of the following symptoms: breathing problems, fever, general ill feeling, swollen lymph nodes, swelling of the face, mouth and tongue, hives, itching, fainting, dizziness, feeling lightheaded (low blood pressure), joint pain, or skin rash. • Eye problems. Tell your healthcare provider if you have any new or worsening eye problems, including eye pain or changes in vision. The most common side effects of DUPIXENT include: injection site reactions, eye and eyelid inflammation, including redness, swelling and itching, and cold sores in your mouth or on your lips. Eye and eyelid inflammation, including redness, swelling and itching have been seen in patients who have atopic dermatitis. Tell your healthcare provider if you have any side effect that bothers you or that does not go away. These are not all of the possible side effects of DUPIXENT. Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects. You may report side effects to FDA. Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch, or call 1-800-FDA-1088. General information about the safe and effective use of DUPIXENT. Medicines are sometimes prescribed for purposes other than those listed in a Patient Information leaflet. Do not use DUPIXENT for a condition for which it was not prescribed. Do not give DUPIXENT to other people, even if they have the same symptoms that you have. It may harm them. This is a summary of the most important information about DUPIXENT for this use. If you would like more information, talk with your healthcare provider. You can ask your pharmacist or healthcare provider for more information about DUPIXENT that is written for healthcare professionals. For more information about DUPIXENT, go to www.DUPIXENT.com or call 1-844-DUPIXENT (1-844-387-4936) What are the ingredients in DUPIXENT? Active ingredient: dupilumab Inactive ingredients: L-arginine hydrochloride, L-histidine, polysorbate 80, sodium acetate, sucrose, and water for injection Manufactured by: Regeneron Pharmaceuticals, Inc., Tarrytown, NY 10591 U.S. License # 1760; Marketed by sanofi-aventis U.S. LLC, (Bridgewater, NJ 08807) and Regeneron Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Tarrytown, NY 10591) DUPIXENT is a registered trademark of Sanofi Biotechnology / ©2019 Regeneron Pharmaceuticals, Inc. / sanofi-aventis U.S. LLC. All rights reserved. Issue Date: June 2019

DUP.19.08.0101

P H E N O M E N O N

uncommon goods

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

A few things Queen Elizabeth II can’t live without

THE BEAUTY LANDSCAPE CAN BE DOG-EAT-DOG. BUT IN GREAT BRITAIN, THERE’S ONE SURE WAY TO STAND OUT: GET THE QUEEN ON YOUR SIDE. WELCOME TO THE INCREDIBLY EXCLUSIVE WORLD OF THE ROYAL WARRANT. BY RACHEL MARLOWE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 55

P H E N O M E N O N

If you were a woman of means in Elizabethan England, your makeup routine probably involved a lot of white lead and vinegar. Pretty poisonous, sure. But if it’s good enough for the queen! The British royals have long driven the beauty scene in their island nation—and more recently, far beyond it. In 1949, while 19-year-old Princess Margaret was on holiday in Capri, an Italian journalist broke into her hotel room to discover, among other things, what nail polish she used (it was a French brand, Peggy Sage). Princess Diana helped put blue eyeliner on the map in the ’80s, and when it was reported that her son’s wife, Kate Middleton, was a fan of Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil? The organic formula from New Zealand sold out on boots.com in a single weekend. And if you want to understand the power of Meghan Markle’s beauty choices, just ask British facialist Sarah Chapman. “[Our brand] awareness in the States has really grown because of our connection with her,” says Chapman, who’s looked after Markle’s skin care since she moved to the U.K. A royal nod is a royally big deal. Even bigger, though: the Royal Warrant, an official recognition of companies that have supplied goods or services to the Royal Households—today, that means Queen Elizabeth II, the Duke of Edinburgh (aka Prince Philip), and the Prince of Wales (their son Charles). Score a warrant and that product’s packaging can display the royal coat of arms. “It’s immediately recognizable [to anyone in the U.K.] and seen as a mark of a product or service fit for a king or queen,” explains a spokesperson for hairbrush maker Kent, holder of a warrant from nine consecutive monarchs. The idea dates back to medieval times, when the notion of currying royal favor was something brands would joust for. No, not really. But it got heated. So the Lord Chamberlain, as head of the king’s household, formally appointed the country’s best tradespeople with the honor. Today companies can apply for a Royal Warrant after one of the Royal Households has used its wares for at least five years. The approval process could take up to a year, and brands need to reapply every five years. If the grantor dies, the company must drop the royal arms within 24 months. Currently, out of about 800 total warrant holders, there are only 21 health and beauty companies. There’s Jermyn Street perfumer Floris, which has warrants dating

back to George IV, and 230-year-old pharmacy D.R. Harris & Co., which is just a quick walk from Buckingham Palace should the queen run out of triple-milled soap. Newer additions include Molton Brown (spoiler alert if you’re a guest at Balmoral: Apparently there’s a set of Orange & Bergamot hand wash and lotion in every bathroom) and Elizabeth Arden (the queen is a fan of the brand’s Eight Hour Cream, and Diana wore its now-discontinued Beautiful Color Lash Enhancing Mascara in Ocean Blue). Clarins was the last beauty company to score a warrant; it was granted by Elizabeth II in 2007. For her coronation in 1953, she commissioned the Paris-based company to create a shade of lipstick to match her robes; she’s now said to use its Hand and Nail Treatment Cream and Ever Matte Radiant Matifying Powder. Even the French can earn this royal honor—if they’re lucky enough to create a royal treatment.

While the Duchess of Sussex may never officially be a warrant grantor, she’s definitely a potential warrant influencer. And since becoming pregnant with Archie last year, Meghan

has been leaning toward clean beauty products, like Ren Clean Skincare Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic (1), RMS Beauty Living Luminizer (2), and Beuti Skincare Beauty Sleep Elixir (3),

56 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

also a favorite of sisterin-law Kate. “Apparently [Kate] has three bottles on her vanity,” says founder Leila Aalam. Camilla Parker Bowles is a fan of facialist Deborah Mitchell’s Heaven Black Bee Venom Mask, a

$243 marshmallow herb extract and shea butter formula, and recommended that line to Kate. We wonder if, after Meghan tapped hairstylist Serge Normant

for her wedding, she recommended his Meta Luxe Hair Spray (4) to Kate and Camilla? Maybe along with one of her go-to drugstore picks, like Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Luscious Mascara (5).

FROM TOP: SARAH OLIN; COURTESY OF BRAND (5)

The Next Gen of Royal Warrants?

L I M I T E D

E D I T I O N

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B Y

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BILLIONS OF STARS. ZILLIONS OF PLANETS. BUT THE QUESTION IS, WHAT WOULD EXTRATERRESTRIALS REALLY LOOK LIKE? TURNS OUT THERE ARE SOME NUMBERS FOR THAT TOO. AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THEY LOOK A LOT LIKE US. —AMBER ANGELLE

2: Number of wigs sewn together to create Martian Girl’s oversize ’60s hairstyle in Mars Attacks! In an interview years later, actor Lisa Marie (right) said the hairpiece was so heavy it left her with a scar.

1965: Year the original

pilot for Star Trek was rejected, partly because a scantily dressed green alien—a female actor covered almost entirely in layers of Max Factor greasepaint—was deemed too erotic for television.

10: Height in inches of designer Alexander McQueen’s “Alien” shoes. Made of 3D-printed resin, the heels were shaped to look like human spines, but from another world. Reportedly, several models were too terrified to wear them on the runway. 13: Length in minutes

of the 1902 film A Trip to the Moon, likely the first onscreen depiction of extraterrestrials, played by a cast of very limber French acrobats wearing insect-like masks.

7,500,000+: Copies

sold of David Bowie’s album The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders From Mars. As an extraterrestrial rock star sent with a message for Earth, Bowie wears Japanese Kabuki-style makeup, a scarlet mullet, and Lycra jumpsuits.

3: Faces that helped inspire the look of Steven Spielberg’s E.T. His muses? Albert Einstein, Ernest Hemingway, and Carl Sandburg.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 61

paint

the

town

For the person who has everything under the rainbow (minus the actual rainbow).

1. Gucci bag. With its geometric shape, color-blocked leather, and perky top handles, this day bag is artwork for your arm. $3,000. 2. Mugler Alien Extraordinary Colors Collector Eau de Parfum. The bottle’s random splashes of color give a different effect from

66 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

every angle. Meanwhile, the jasmine scent inside is consistently classic and chic. $120. 3. SK-II Facial Treatment Essence Limited Edition Fantasista Utamaro. A painterly motif on the outside; a refreshing, skinplumping essence on the inside. $235.

4. St. Ives Lip Scrubs in Juicy Watermelon, Sweet Passion Fruit, and Fresh Peach. Laced with sugar crystals, these buttery salves restore flaky lips, giving them a smooth, just-bitten flush. $4.99 each. 5. Beautyblender The Crown Jewels. The gift box includes four

foam Beautyblenders, plus a quartet of gem-shaped, latherproducing cleansers for each one—so now you can give your favorite makeup tools the royal treatment. $65. 6. Nintendo Switch Lite. This handheld gaming device—now only .61 pounds—makes us want to miss our subway stop (and show off our manicure). $199.99.

photographed by joyce lee

THESE PAGES: PROP STYLIST, BEATRICE CHASTKA. THIS PAGE: SHOT AT MISS LILY’S 7A, NEW YORK CITY.

objects desire

This season, we plucked gift inspiration from the colors, architecture, and eclectic vibe of our own backyard: New York City. With twinkling palettes, skyscraper heels, and bags with the structure of a suspension bridge, the getting (and giving) sure is good—in every neighborhood. By Liana Schaffner

DILLARDÕS MACYÕS

SHOP AT DSQUARED2.COM

Lift here to experience WOOD POUR FEMME

Lift here to experience WOOD POUR HOMME

Soft pastels and watercolor motifs for the one who loves to escape the holiday bustle.

G I F T

G U I D E

all calm is

1. Prada bag. This cheeky bag strikes all the right notes: playful, flirty, and sturdy. $1,750. 2. Apple iPhone 11. For the stylish techie in your life: This dualcamera phone shoots the sharpest videos (and post-salon selfies) while sheathed in the coolest lavender. $699. 3. Tiffany & Love Fragrance for Her Eau de Parfum. Who doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t love a little Tiffany on the neck and wrists? Basil, grapefruit, and neroli positively sparkle on the pulse points. $105 for 1.7 oz.

4. Glow Recipe Glow Baby Glow Holiday Set. The beauty equivalent of an apple a day: Potent fruit extracts help to boost moisture, refine pores, and chase away dullness. $29.

4 3

5. Herbivore Botanicals Jewel Box Mini Facial Oil + Serum Set. Three mini facial oils, two brightening serums, and a partridge in a pear tree. Actually, this kit delivers glowy results with ingredients like adaptogenic shiitake mushroom and Ayurvedic Babchi plantâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but try singing that. $58.

SHOT AT FELIX ROASTING CO., NEW YORK CITY

6. Saskia Diez earrings. With colorful beads of jade and turquoise, these sinuous earrings are long on style. $253. 5

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 69

G U I D E G I F T

neutral ground

Clean lines and earthy tones for the wellrounded minimalist.

70 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

1. Pantene Pro-V Intense Rescue Shots. Our kind of stocking stuffer: Packed with lipids, glycerin, and vitamins, these little tubes transform dry winter hair, restoring moisture and sleekness in a flash. $1.99 each.

2. Bottega Veneta bag. Rendered in sumptuous cream-colored leather, this puffy, quilted bag weaves together style and function. $2,480. 3. Natasha Denona Metropolis Eye Shadow Palette. A spectrum of 28 new shades, mostly neutrals, lets you slay (sleigh?) any look, from subtle definition to sultry evening eyes. $129.

4. Expressie by Essie Nail Polish in Saffr-on the Move, Crop Top & Roll, and In a Flash Sale. The season’s warmest coats—rich ocher, a pink-beige hybrid, and burnt orange—all loaded with depth. $9 each.

G U I D E G I F T

night vision Black, white, and ready all over—for the friend who always comes alive after dark.

1. Valentino Uomo Born in Roma. The black ombré bottle studded in grommets is a gift to his nightstand—or her vanity. The sexy, invigorating mix of ginger and salt is universally attractive. $95 for 3.4 oz.

2. Shiseido Hanatsubaki Hake Polishing Face Brush. This camelliainspired brush is anything but garden variety. Each densely packed “petal” seamlessly blends powders and liquids. $49.

72 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

3. Altuzarra sandals. Strappy heels in zebra stripes let you stand high above the partygoing herd. $1,595. 4. Edie Parker bag. A boxy little bag in cherry-red acrylic places you squarely in the spotlight. $995.

5. Givenchy Red Lights Face & Eye Palette. Pumped with silicone and weightless oils, the four cushiony shades in this stunning compact glide over lids and play up your bone structure. $63.

6. Guerlain Rouge G Goldenland Lipstick in No. 94 and case in Wonder Gold. This blinged-out case conceals a hidden mirror, turning every touch-up into a clever party trick. $33 for the lipstick; $22 for the case.

SHOT AT THE ALLEY CAT AT THE BEEKMAN HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY

The Merch Store Is Open! shop.bonappetit.com Cart (0)

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do ea t n ’t mer t he c h!

BA products are now available—oh, how convenient, it’s the holiday season!—at shop.bonappetit.com. It’s all the stuﬀ we’d wear ourselves: fancy-schmancy aprons, super subtle hats, tie-dye shirts, plus totes that hold multiple wine bottles.

G U I D E G I F T

1. Burberry pumps. These mock-croc heels are trimmed to perfection with sturdy leather tassels and sparkly crystal studs. $1,550.

2. Jenny Packham earrings. Nothing quite says “Point me to the photo booth” like shimmery fringe earrings feathering your neck. $65. 3. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. For the truly deserving: This limited-edition Swarovski-crystal bottle will last long after the voluptuous floral bouquet inside runs out. $1,800 for 100 ml.

7 6

all glitters For the one who truly understands that the season is always better with extra sparkle.

that

76 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

4. Paintbox Nail Lacquer in Like Spark and Like Future. For the most dazzling manicure (hands down), pair high-wattage copper with glinting silver. $40 for both. 5. Lancôme Les Monochromatiques Palette. Graduating from palest pink to deepest cranberry, each pearly shade deposits the perfect dewy color on our lids and lips. $34. 6. Kitsch bobby pins. With gold-colored metal and a pearl on each end, bobby pins never looked so glam. Ditto for your ponytail. $12 for two. 7. Anastasia Beverly Hills Mini Loose Highlighter Set. Move over, myrrh. We come bearing three twinkly powders in shades of silver and gold. Each gossamer-fine formula catches the light and creates an impact wherever you sweep it (eyes, cheeks, even collarbones). $48.

B E A U T Y B A C K G R O U N D

drawing lines HER CHIROPRACTIC WORK IS ONE THING, BUT WHEN SHEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOT ADJUSTING THE SPINE, AZRA KHAMISSA IS UPDATING THE CENTURIES-OLD BODY ART OF HENNA IN HER HOME CITY OF DUBAI. BY SARAH SOULI 78 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

photographed by tamila kochkarova

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Khamissa’s Instagram (@dr.azra) is less a social media profile and more a gallery of her work, which spans from the simplistic to the wild.

COURTESY OF SUBJECT

B E A U T Y B A C K G R O U N D

Her hands are her canvases and her tools. Every few months, Azra Khamissa, the 30-year-old Canadian South African chiropractor-cum-designer, hosts roving henna-tattoo sessions in Dubai. She usually chooses a café or a communal space, like in the Dubai Design District, the glass-plated miniopolis located next to downtown. But her best work, she says, happens after midnight, in her bedroom, on her own hands, while Netflix plays in the background. Khamissa—dressed in billowing stripes, or clad shoulders to toes in Fendi Fs—is a henna artist, though her path to body art is as zigzag as the designs she makes. While studying in Australia to become a chiropractor, she and her fellow classmates would roll up their sleeves and draw lines on one another to illustrate the muscles and tendons beneath the skin. “I definitely use anatomy in my work. Most of my designs are very balanced and symmetrical, just like the body is,” she says. Khamissa possesses that special curiosity that allows her to easily cross disciplines. She is bubbly and talks in a warm, confiding tone, as though you’ve been girlfriends for years. It’s easy to see why the waiting list is packed with all sorts of global creatives. Henna is nothing new—it’s an over-5,000-year-old art form found across North Africa, the Middle East, and southern Asia. Using a paste made from the henna plant, it’s usually applied to decorate the hands and feet; most “traditional” designs incorporate curlicues and floral arrangements that promote strength and beauty. But Khamissa was drawn to something more linear. “It all started with a minimalist Bedouin design,” she says of the simple circle she drew on her hand almost two years ago. She posted that image on her Instagram (@dr.azra), and more designs followed, static images exploring various forms of movement: moons eclipsing up the forearm, snakes writhing between fingers and tendons, checkered squares and frangipani losing its petals. “These minimalist designs take just as long if not [longer] than these more maximalist designs,” says Khamissa. “But [some] people will still look at this like, ‘It’s not henna!’ ” Her designs simply look too different from most traditional henna work, which favors a specific palette of animal and plant symbols and paisleys (plus regional touches, like the many-petaled Sahasrara, in southern Asian designs). But for many people, Khamissa’s henna designs represent something fresh and contemporary and serve as

a way for women to meet and share. “That’s what I really love about henna—it brings women together,” she says. “Women don’t need an excuse to get together, but it really forces you to stay still for hours to get the design and to let it dry.” Henna has historically served as a way to communicate ideas and status. In some countries, married women stain their feet; you can tell when a woman has been widowed by the paleness of her soles. Last December, Khamissa posted a design of paint-dipped fingertips, with N on her left palm and O on her right (below). It was more of a personal reflection on the frustration she felt from people not listening—at work, in friendships, and in day-to-day interactions—but in the middle of #MeToo, the design took on a life of its own. “‘No means no’ can be translated on so many levels,” she says. “Honestly, just the fact that it was interpreted in so many ways was great.” Khamissa’s designs are immortalized online, but henna is unique because it’s temporary. After drying, it lasts about two weeks, placing it more in the camp of makeup than tattoos. But unlike makeup, it disappears over days and across a spectrum of human emotion. “I love that it’s a way of expressing how I feel and I can embrace that I feel differently over time,” says Khamissa. “I feel like this right now, and I’ll express that, and it’ll fade away.” And yet with such a long history behind it, and a bright future ahead, her work ends up making quite the impression, long after the color dims.

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D R E A M

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daniel martin

He became a household name after he did Meghan Markle’s makeup for the royal wedding, but Martin’s been working with Hollywood royalty like Julianne Moore and Chloë Sevigny for years. Here, he shares a few of his essentials. By Kathleen Suico

“As I’ve gotten older, I’ve gotten more eczema, and I’ve started to get really bad melasma. Tatcha The Water Cream [8] calms my skin down. My derm suggested SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic [2] to help the melasma, and it’s been working.”

“When I feel a cystic breakout coming, I’ll put on a ZitSticka Killa [patch] [1] and it won’t form. A lot of my [skin-care] products are in glass, so I designed the Vanity Case Set with Cuyana [5], which allows them to stand up. Many of my clients like the Air Repair Complexion Quenching Facial Mist [7]. I use it to prep skin, or if I’m doing press with someone and we’re in for a long day, I’ll use it as a refresher.”

I’ll put on a Mediheal N.M.F Intensive Hydrating Mask [9] while I unpack. It grips on to your face so you don’t have to worry about it sliding off.”

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (9); COURTESY OF SUBJECT

“I keep an Honest Beauty Magic Beauty Balm [3] in every bag [Martin is a consultant for the brand]. It’s my lip balm, cuticle cream, and eye cream. I’m not a big fragrance person, but the Maison Christian Dior Spice Blend [6] makes me feel finished [Martin is an ambassador for the brand]. It’s my equivalent of a red lipstick.”

GOOD GIRLS DO GOOD GOOD GIRL SUPPORTS KODE WITH KLOSSY TO MAKE IT POSSIBLE FOR GIRLS AGED 14-18 TO EXPAND THEIR EDUCATION IN TECHNOLOGY.

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HER STYLE IS ON POINT. HER HUMOR IS SUBTLE. AND IN EUPHORIA SHE CAN BREAK YOUR HEART WITH A LOOK. ZENDAYA PUTS THE Z IN GEN Z, AND SHE’S JUST BEGUN TO TAKE FLIGHT. BY JESSICA CHIA PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIGUEL REVERIEGO

Going Places Tommy x Zendaya blazer, turtleneck, trousers, boots, bag, and earrings. Louis Vuitton luggage. Makeup colors: Hypnôse 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Bleu Hypnôtique, Dual Finish Highlighter in Radiant Rose Gold, and L’Absolu Rouge Ruby Lipstick in Vintage Ruby by Lancôme. Details, see allure.com/credits. These pages: Fashion stylist, Law Roach. Hair: Larry Sims. Makeup: Sheika Daley. Manicure: Nettie Davis. Production: JN Production.

Zendaya and I are walking through a scruffy park in North Hollywood. There’s a gravel path, some sunburned patches of grass struggling to be green, and a 7-11 across the street. The neighborhood is neither hip nor exclusive—not Highland Park, not Brentwood. And it’s not exactly where you would expect to find one of the hottest actors in town. The reason we’re here has to do with the leash in her hand, at the end of which is a miniature schnauzer called Noon (who clearly thinks, given the dense squirrel population, that this is the best place to be in Los Angeles, if not the world). The Euphoria star is telling me what it’s like to play a drug addict. She says it’s easy. I’m skeptical. I imagine that certain scenes, like one where she’s screaming obscenities at a drug dealer who is refusing to give her opioids while she is in withdrawal, might have been a little tough. Her take is different. “Somehow Rue [her character in the HBO series] felt very natural to me. She didn’t feel like a huge— watch it, that looks funny.” Zendaya points to a mud puddle directly in my path. My powder-pink shoes and I are eternally grateful. She picks back up where she left off: “Rue just seemed so much like me,” she says. Even though much of the inspiration for Rue comes from Euphoria creator Sam Levinson’s own experiences of getting sober, Zendaya says it’s their matching idiosyncrasies—she calls him her long-lost twin—that enable her to easily adopt the role. “Sam and I are so similar—the way we talk, the foods we like,” she says. “We like Cool Ranch Doritos and lemon-lime Gatorade. We find ourselves sitting the same way.” Zendaya is rapidly scrolling through her camera roll—she wants me to understand, and to understand, I’d have to see this photo. 86

Since our plan was to go for a dog walk on a hot summer afternoon, I dressed casually, but Zendaya has outdone me, in an oversize basic white tee, black joggers, and simple white Reeboks. She hasn’t bothered to wear sunglasses, which wouldn’t be out of place—we’re in a city crawling with paparazzi, and it’s squintingly sunny out. She also hasn’t bothered to put on makeup, which is just as well because she has the poreless, supple skin of a newborn and high cheekbones that are gleaming. This last part is not genetic—it’s lip balm she dabbed onto her face because it felt dry. Her usually dark hair is auburn today, rippling into the kind of imperfect waves that take stylists hours to create. She has found the photo. It’s a picture someone snapped of her and Levinson on the Euphoria set, sitting side by side, leaning back and crossing their legs in exactly the same way. At the center of a show that explores controversial topics (drug abuse, partner abuse, homophobia, transphobia, sexual exploitation, death, grief, and peer humiliation, to name a few), Zendaya manages to be, by turns, funny, vulnerable, flawed, authentic, hardened, and hopeful. It makes sense that she’s most at home in front of a camera. She’s been in the public eye modeling, singing, and acting since she was old enough to flash a smile at a camera. Zendaya was a child model and got her first starring role at 14 on Disney Channel’s Shake it Up series. Along the way to playing Rue in Euphoria and MJ in Marvel’s most recent SpiderMan series, she flirted with pop stardom. “I still love making music, and I still get to do it through acting a lot of times, and being able to work on the finale song for Euphoria was fun.” She pauses. “There’s a layer of personal life that I think actors get that music artists don’t. They have no character to hide behind, so they have to be very open. [As actors] we get a little bit of a separation,” she says. She admits that social media has made this line a little blurry—she does feel pressure to post—but all in all, she can retain a sense of identity beyond her roles. This tension between revealing and concealing is one that Zendaya is partic-

ularly sensitive to. We’ve moved to one of her favorite restaurants, a dark, moody Thai place that’s completely empty. She likes the food (even the appetizers are served in heaping portions), and the non-nosy clientele. The seats are low, roomy benches, and she sits with her legs splayed out, so a now-sleepy Noon can tuck himself snugly between her legs. I’ve asked her whether there is anything her fans would be surprised to know about her, and the answer is at once perplexing and the most honest thing she could say. “I think my fans pretty much understand me. They know I don’t leave my house, they know that I’m lazy, they know that I’m pretty open but also pretty private. I think we have, in a weird way, a pretty close relationship. My fans get me for sure.” Of course, Zendaya is an internationally recognized celebrity who can likely claim more devotees than most NFL teams. The level of privacy she can hope for is limited at best. In fact, our afternoon together has been a master class in hiding in plain sight and/or avoiding crowds: Both the park and restaurant we visited were in a low-key part of Los Angeles, near her mother’s home, and we went to both at off-peak hours. She chalks up her no-makeup, ultracasual look to her laid-back attitude. And she is laid-back. When she finds out I planned to take an Uber from the park to the restaurant, she invites me to “hop in” to the backseat of her Range Rover. But her cool also helps her to blend in—not one person takes notice of her the entire time we are together except our server, who asks to take a picture so she can show her son. “Sure,” Zendaya says, scooting over so the server can sidle up next to her for a photo. Incognito skills notwithstanding, I suspect it’s not merely hiding behind characters that appeals to her; it’s living vicariously through them. “It was written in the script that Rue had this big hoodie. You can tell when she’s having a good day or feels good because her hoodie is not covering her entirely, and then when she’s not feeling it, she’s basically hiding in this giant hoodie.” Zendaya could really use a hoodie like that too. But perhaps

Wing Woman Tommy x Zendaya jacket, sweater, skirt, heels, and earrings. Stylist’s own socks. Makeup colors: Le Monochromatique in Petit Bisou and L’Absolu Rouge Ruby Lipstick in Kiss Me Ruby by Lancôme. Details, see allure.com/credits.

Hair Apparent Louis Vuitton dress. Tommy x Zendaya belt, boots, and scarf. HermĂ¨s bag. Fallon earrings. Zaxie necklace. Opposite page, makeup colors: Color Design Eyeshadow Palette in Teal Fury and Brow Define Pencil in Caramel by LancĂ´me. Details, see allure .com/credits.

I’m missing the meaning. “When I was 11, my grandfather passed, and we had all his old clothes,” she says. “I thought it would be cool if we made [it clear that] the hoodie was Rue’s [late] dad’s hoodie. [I wanted to capture] that attachment that you have to inanimate objects when somebody passes.” If Zendaya’s grandfather inspired Rue’s hoodie, it was her grandmother who inspired her second collection in collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger, Tommy x Zendaya. The mix of ’70s-esque tailored women’s suiting (high-waisted trousers, sweater vests, sharp blazers) and more bohemian items (flowy skirts, tie-neck blouses, and swing dresses) was an homage to fashions her grandmother wore during that era. She was also motivated by the diversity of body types in her family tree to stipulate that the lines she works on also come in plus sizes, something, she says, Tommy Hilfiger had not previously done for runway collections. “That was my thing—I’m not going

deadpan humor and Rue’s wry delivery are Zendaya, through and through. But just because Zendaya doesn’t have all the answers doesn’t mean she isn’t keenly aware of the sociopolitical forces that have shaped her own reality. In that spirit, she decided her debut Tommy x Zendaya show last spring would be a modern-day interpretation of the Battle of Versailles, a storied 1973 event that was a cultural inflection point, and one of the first major fashion shows to prominently feature a number of African American models, such as Pat Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, and Alva Chinn. “It was a celebration of the women who opened the door for me. Without what these women did in this fashion landscape, without Beverly Johnson, the first black woman to have a [American] Vogue cover, my Vogue cover doesn’t exist,” Zendaya says. “It’s saying thank you, and it’s also putting it in our minds that that’s what we have to continue to do. That’s the only way that the

German roots.) “And then I started thinking about my brothers, and I’m just like, What can I do? How do I stop this? I’m terrified.” I’m sitting on the other side of the table, letting it all sink in. I spent nearly every second watching Euphoria wishing for Rue and Jules (played by Hunter Schafer, a trans model and actor) that their wide-eyed yet world-weary characters didn’t have to live in that dark, sad place, with its predators and hurt feelings and drugs and loss. But here I am, with Zendaya, and the cruel trick is that she and I and everyone around us are living in a world that’s just a sized-up version of the one in Euphoria, whether we choose to see it or not. Zendaya is taking this better than I am. She has done this before. “There’s literally injustice happening every second. It’s intense and it’s overwhelming, and I think a lot of young people are feeling that,” she says. “But what do we do about it? All I can say is try to find a balance between doing the work and still

“I don’t like the idea that you have to box yourself in or stay in one lane.” to make clothes my sister or my niece or any of the women in my family can’t wear,” she says. “A lot of the clothes were for tall people too. For my mom, this is the first time that she can wear pants and not get them altered—she’s six feet four.” More broadly, Zendaya says she wanted to pay homage to “the working woman, especially in the time where women were taking over in different career facets, becoming CEOs, becoming bosses, and taking over in that sense.” I ask her whether she has a take on pay equity as addressed in Michelle Williams’s speech at the Emmy Awards ceremony in September. Zendaya presses her brows. “I don’t have enough information,” she says finally. “I just started reading my own damn contracts not that long ago, so I don’t know. I have to be more aware and know a little bit more to even figure out what [the root issue is] and how to fix it. I think it’s about accountability for sure.” I wonder if Zendaya is much more self-aware than the average 23-year-old, or if this is simply what it’s like to be a standard-issue Gen Z Homo sapiens. As someone squarely in the millennial category, I wonder at her vulnerability where my contemporaries would show hubris—or resort to memetic comedy. Speaking of which, another thing that surprises me about meeting Zendaya in person is how funny she is, how like her onscreen selves, in that specific respect: MJ’s 90

doors are going to continue to be open— if we keep inviting people that look like us, and other people who don’t look like us, to come through the door,” she says. Naturally, Zendaya’s aspirations for inclusion extend beyond fashion and into the entertainment world. Things she thinks we need more of in Hollywood: coming-of-age stories with black leads that “can be funny and can be about their awkward moments, and puberty, and all that stuff,” she says. See also: sci-fi with a black lead. “A little girl who can, I don’t know, control the weather, or can talk to aliens. Just some fun shit.” Media representation is one thing that is in her wheelhouse, but there is much more she wishes she had some answers to: climate change and its deniers. Children in cages at the border. Police brutality. She recalls the time when she was alone in an Atlanta hotel room, in tears and growing panicked after the shooting of Philando Castile. Castile’s was the latest name on the growing list of African American men and boys who have lost their lives in police shootings. “It [felt like they] happened back to back to back. I just started crying. My dad had gone out to get some food, and I was immediately like, ‘Where is he? Is he okay?’ I’m worried about my dad. My dad is a 60-somethingyear-old man, and I’m worried about my dad,” she says. (Zendaya’s father is African American, and her mother has

not letting it destroy you as a person and destroy your hope and faith in humanity,” she says. But I think Zendaya does have the answer—or at least one that works for her: “It’s allowing yourself to be angry enough to want to be motivated to do something, but not to where it breaks you down,” she says. I ask what’s next for Zendaya. In her ideal world, it would involve the LSAT: “[I’d study] law or something, not to practice, just to be able to read my own contracts,” she says. And certainly camera work: “I’ve become obsessed with cinematography because of Euphoria. I definitely want to learn more about that,” she says. And possibly fresh ink: “I love tattoos. But I don’t want any,” Zendaya says. After a beat, she offers one exception. “Hunter and I want to get ‘rules’ tattooed on our [inner] lip. So we might do that.” Then again, it might be all of the above. After all, “You can’t do it all” is one of Zendaya’s least favorite sayings. “It makes me mad. I don’t like the idea that you have to box yourself in or stay in one lane. Why wouldn’t I want to try to make the most of my talents and my gifts while I can?” I hope she’s right. But most of all, I hope she never loses her sense that what is wrong with the world can be righted. “I want to be a part of the change,” she says. “It’s important that creatives of all races, if they have an opportunity or platform, use it to make room for other people.”

Plane Hopping ChloĂŠ jacket, turtleneck, sweater, skirt, and boots. Details, see allure.com/credits.

SARAH OLIN (PHOTO ILLUSTRATION)

a s

The next Korean beauty trends we adopt might pinch a little. Devon Abelman visits Seoulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most crowded waiting rooms to investigate the new frontier of injectables.

UP WITH ME FOR DINNER TO CELEBRATE MY FIRST TIME IN KOREA,

my Seoul-based friend Jessica got off the plane after a business trip in Los Angeles and drove straight to her dermatologist—or “dermie,” as she affectionately calls him—for Botox on her nose and jawline. After our stomachs were filled with dak galbi and soju, I scooted closer to Jessica in our booth and asked her about her latest dermie appointment. She began to list the dozen-plus cosmetic procedures she’s tried since moving to Seoul from New York City eight years ago. Botox was her gateway injectable, starting with her jawline for a narrower, V-shaped silhouette. Since then, Jessica’s gotten fillers in her forehead, chin, nose, and lips. She also mentioned the “Chanel” injection, a cocktail of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that is supposed to tighten and brighten skin (she didn’t notice a difference, though). I listened to all of this slightly slack-jawed. On the other side of Jessica was our friend who grew up in South Korea— he was utterly unfazed. There, the idea of a 33-year-old signing up for regular cosmetic injections is par for the course. An estimated one in three South Korean women between the ages of 19 and 29 has undergone a cosmetic procedure, according to a 2015 Gallup poll. Earlier in the week, I skipped Seoul’s stunning palaces and animal-café tourist traps to go straight to Gangnam. The neighborhood’s streets are lined with high-rises filled with full-service, multilevel plastic surgery and dermatology clinics, many complete with in-house pharmacies, stem cell laboratories, and hotel rooms for out-oftowners. Hundreds of people cycle in and out daily for touch-ups and treatments, with the nonchalance of stopping by a salon for a blowout. Inside these buildings, the future of injectables is being determined by a

discerning audience of South Koreans who prize flawless skin, small faces, and round, youthful features. To maximize efficacy and move patients along, the spaces are divided by treatment (like the “filler room” in one clinic I visited, where chairs are lined up for patients to receive their injections, one next to the other). And unlike in the U.S., where privacy surrounding cosmetic work is prized, waiting rooms are sprinkled with patients wearing a full face of numbing cream as they stand by for their cosmetic procedures. In the U.S., we have 32 FDAapproved dermal fillers. It can take many years of testing (and bureaucracy) for a new one to see the light of a doctor’s office. In South Korea, however, regulation is less stringent, and a person looking for injectables in Seoul has many more options to choose from. Formulas that the FDA has not approved because of a lack of studies on efficacy and safety or potentially serious side effects, like injectable skin-brighteners spiked with glutathione (an antioxidant that can deactivate the body’s melanin-producing enzymes), are used regularly in Korea. And while American doctors certainly use neurotoxins and hyaluronic acid fillers off-label (injecting Botox to lift lips, for example), I met with Korean doctors who spoke very casually of thread-lifting vaginas or injecting Botox into the calves, applications I had never heard of (or even imagined). When it comes to the latest trends and technology in injectables, Seoul is ahead of the curve. “A lot of Korean [patients] are first-time adopters,” says Yongjoon Noh, a plastic surgeon at Banobagi Plastic Surgery & Aesthetic Clinic in Seoul. “New

fillers, new materials, new plastic surgery techniques—they want to try them all.” A big upside to all this: With so many options available, cosmetic injections are vastly cheaper in Korea than they are in the U.S. Alternatives to Botox, like Medytox and Botulax, can be priced as low as $30 for a treatment (compared to about $400 in the U.S.). “It’s common for Koreans to go to the dermatologist weekly, sometimes even daily, for maintenance treatments,” says Y. Claire Chang, a New York City–based dermatologist who frequently travels to Seoul to learn about the latest advancements in cosmetic dermatology. Many of the most popular injectable techniques are specific to Korean beauty standards: plump apples of the cheeks and rounded foreheads, as well as the aforementioned V-shaped jawlines. But other techniques, like using Botox to create the impression of poreless skin, or a thin hyaluronic acid filler to softly upturn the corners of the mouth, are likely to start creeping into practices in the U.S.—in fact, they’ve already arrived in some. Want to know what’s on the horizon? During my week in Korea, these were the procedures I heard about over and over again.

injected into the muscles to prevent and smooth wrinkles, botulinum toxin is placed just below the skin’s surface, at about 40 to 50 sites along the jawline, forehead, and undereye areas. As a result, pores tighten, which makes skin appear smoother and brighter, and excessive acne-causing sebum stops forming. The effects last between three and four months.

OPPOSITE PAGE: SARAH OLIN (PHOTO ILLUSTRATION)

BEFORE MEETING

CHERRY LIPS

The fruity nickname is a reference to the lip shape this filler technique creates. In the past, Angelina Jolie’s lips were the most requested look in Seoul (just as they were in the U.S.), says Kang Jong Bum, a dermatologist at JY Plastic Surgery & Dermatology in Seoul. But as of 2019, Koreans prefer the more targeted plumping that many K-pop stars are known for. Instead of giving lips an allover fullness, dermatologists administer a hyaluronic acid filler (like Juvéderm or Restylane, or domestic options Yvoire or Neuramis) to the middle areas of the upper and lower lip, enhancing the Cupid’s bow. Imagine two double-stemmed cherries on their sides, the stems forming the outline of the edges of your smile. The results last for at least six months and cost about $150 to $250 in Korea.

LIFT EDGE FILLER

After the center of the lips are plumped, the same hyaluronic acid filler is often administered just above the outer corners of the mouth—a technique called lift edge filler. As the name suggests, the treatment raises the edges of the lips into a soft smile. As we age, the area around our mouth loses volume, and the outer corners start falling into an unintentional frown. Lift edge filler counters the droop and balances out

all that fruity volume in the center of the lips, explains Kang. My best friend, CJ, who lives in Gangnam and works in the K-pop industry, knows people who get the procedure for other reasons. “It’s really popular here for people with resting bitch face,” she says. “It helps them look softer.” Like other lip injections, lift edge filler lasts about six months to a year; swelling and small bumps can result, usually for two to three days after the injection, before dissolving. Banobagi offers a cherry lip filler and lift edge filler combination. A permanent smile is also trending in South Korea. One of the coordinators at JY Plastic Surgery & Dermatology mentioned increased requests for surgical smile lifts, where surgeons create incisions in the same areas targeted by lift edge filler, so your face rests naturally with the corners turned up.

NOSE LIFT

My Korean is limited, but I do know the word for thread lift (also, not to brag, egg and grandpa). And that was a good thing because the term came up often in my reporting. At one point, Kang asked if I wanted to try a thread lift myself. I’m 27, with skin that is more plump than saggy, so I was extremely confused by the offer. Thread lifts in Korea, Kang clarified, are not the “facelift lites” that we consider them here. Sure, the mechanics of thread lifts in Korea are the same as they are in the U.S.: Dissolvable, fine-barbed threads are passed underneath the skin with a large needle. Then, as the needle is pulled out, the barbs grab onto skin and pull it upward, stimulating collagen and tightening and lifting the skin. Korean-style thread lifts, though, are less invasive because finer threads are used; they alter the shape of the face, slimming the

“The lips are not volumized at the [outer corners of cherry lips],” says Kang, “but you can see the two areas that are plump on the top and the bottom.”

jawline or changing the contours of the nose. “We use thread lifting to make it look like a patient has had a nose job—without actually doing a nose job,” says Choi Jun Young, the lead plastic surgeon at JY Plastic Surgery & Dermatology, of his most requested thread lift procedure. The thread is injected between the nostrils, and in about 15 minutes patients can walk out with the bridge and tip of their nose angled higher. The results last around a year or two and run about $250 to $420.

BOOSTER SHOTS

“These days, it’s not about fixing a problem but preventing it,” says Lim. He believes the future of cosmetic dermatology in Korea is the “booster shot,” an injection designed to rev up skin’s natural powers of regeneration and moisturize and brighten skin—not to change the contours of your face. The most sought-after booster shot at JY is Jalupro, a solution of amino acids and sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid) manufactured in Switzerland. Kang says it builds up collagen (to best effect when done as a series of injections over several weeks), so skin becomes plumper and acne scars start to fade away. Jalupro can be injected all over your face, but Kang likes to target wrinkle-prone areas like the forehead, around the mouth, and around the eyes. It can also supplement laser treatments for stretch marks. My friend Jessica loved the results so much that she got it once a week for three months. Rejuran—which contains PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide— is the booster shot that many doctors in Korea believe holds the most promise. PDRN is extracted from a segment of salmon DNA that is a 95 percent match to that of humans. This small DNA chain is known for its anti-inflammatory and tissue-repairing properties. When injected into the skin, Rejuran is said to shrink pores, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even skin tone, and balance oil production. Unlike skin Botox, which focuses on instantly smoothing the surface, PDRN could heal sun damage or acne over time at the cellular level, based on early in vitro research. Typically, patients get three monthly injections ($100 to $340 each), for results that last up to a year.

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Six trips, six spots around the globe, and six experiences that do more than relax you: They change you for good. 96

THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH SPA. OPPOSITE PAGE: TORKIL GUDNASON/TRUNK ARCHIVE.

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R o y a l M a n s o u r, M a r r a k e c h

I was lying on a marble altar, naked except for a white cotton thong, deep in the hammam of the Royal Mansour hotel in Marrakech with an attendant named Laila. Laila was vigorously scrubbing my skin with a glove that somehow felt like suede but did the work of sandpaper. I lifted my head to look down at my legs, where she was drawing the glove downward in long strokes. Every pass of the glove left sheaths of skin behind. (Sorry about “sheaths,” but there’s no pretty term for this type of aggressive exfoliation.) I assumed there was some sort of chemical sorcery at play: I’ve often suspected that the exfoliating peels I love just gunk up to make the user think it’s actual skin that’s peeling off. “There’s no product on here,” Laila said when she caught my eye. I was mystified. I’m well practiced in the dark arts of exfoliation (I have a mild Baby Foot addiction), but this was something different. I was molting. “Now,” Laila said cheerfully, “you will have a new skin.” My visit to the Royal Mansour was my first time at a spa, which is a little bit like losing your virginity

to Jason Momoa. Over the course of my three-day stay I was blessed with a variety of luxuries—among them a Bastien Gonzalez mani-pedi, a massage of my innards in which a woman banged a gong on my stomach, and a stay in a private three-floor riad that made me feel like Kristin Scott Thomas in The English Patient. But the hammam treatment was by far the most transformative. Partly because my own skin smelled like roses for five days, and partly because things that are meant to soothe me usually stress me out (meditation, for instance, is a fast track to frustration). But mostly because I arrived at Royal Mansour with skin I had known and loved for many years, and I left with new skin, as soft as a toddler’s. Half an hour before my great molting, Laila had greeted me in the vast, airy lobby of the Royal Mansour’s spa. The lobby looked—and I promise Aladdin is not my only reference for Saharaadjacent locales—like the ornate white birdcage Princess Jasmine keeps her doves in. When we met, Laila had been wearing the Royal Mansour’s beaded, mint-green uniform. When I saw her again, after I’d bathrobed up, she’d changed into a short black dress and put her hair up—the first clue that things were about to get messy. Laila guided me back to “the hot room.” It was the first of three rooms I would pass through during the hammam bathing ritual, and it was as advertised. The marble is heated from within, by a wood-burning stove, and is then covered in warm water from a marble trough. Laila and I were both drenched in sweat, but she wore it better than I did—I am generally a bit red in the face, but in the hot room I reached vivid, concerning new hues. There were two altars in the room, and the one opposite mine was occupied by a woman in a later stage of the ritual. She was lying very still and was being covered in a brown paste. When the attendant reached the woman’s stomach she whispered a maternal remark about elasticity and the woman responded a little too sharply for the vibe: “I’ve had two children. They did that to me.” The attendant laughed and moved the woman into a sitting position. Meanwhile, I got the glove. My body had been tenderized by my own sweat and repeated douses of warm water, and Laila was sloughing off everything that had accumulated on my skin since my birth. And amazingly, when I looked down at my legs, they didn’t look scrubbed raw; they just looked healthy and pink. Once my new flesh had absorbed a range of rose-infused masks, I lay on the hot marble, fragrant and immobilized by the room’s temperature. Laila shepherded me to a shower, then on to the cold room with a plunge pool. The water wasn’t frigid, or even particularly cold, but I was hot. The effect was like pouring tepid water into a frying pan. Laila stood by the pool and counted me in, and I dunked myself on “three” to make her proud. A luxury baptism. I’d expected a plush, gentle spa day. But the hammam ritual, when properly executed, is actually pretty metal. Watching your skin float away—while maybe not for the faint of heart—is a catharsis all its own. —LAUREN LARSON

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CHRISTINE LUTZ/BLAUBLUT EDITION/AUGUST; COURTESY OF ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH SPA (2)

SHED YOUR SKIN IN MOROCCO

LOSE IT IN

Lanserhof Lans rests in the hulking arms of the Alpines, but soon after arrival, I place myself in the capable hands of Caroline Falkensteiner, a slim brunette who recalls a younger, European Mary Steenburgen. I expect her to spread the gospel of the Lans philosophy, grounded in the diet and lifestyle research of the Austrian physician F. X. Mayr. Which makes me slightly uneasy, as Mayr’s vocabulary—detoxify, cure—gives me an acute case of the bullshits. But Falkensteiner provides more of an ear than a sermon. I realize, as I sit with her, that I haven’t spoken out loud about the three pant sizes I’ve gained since becoming a mother. She assures me that everything will be okay: “You are in the right place.” Blood will be drawn, urine will be cupped, and willpower will be challenged. But first, the scale—weight is measured in kilograms here, so I can temporarily fool myself—and

a surprisingly relaxing stomach massage. “Your digestive system is struggling,” she says kindly, explaining that most of us eat too fast (so we don’t register our hunger cues), eat too much and too late (when our guts have to work overtime to metabolize food), and eat too much acidic stuff (meat, eggs, dairy, booze, the tenets of joy). Just as guests are given their own physician for a minimum seven-day stay, they’re also given a number for their eating plan. (The lower the number, the less you eat.) I’m a 2. Two means a breakfast of spelt bread with avocado whip or porridge; a lunch of baked potato and root vegetables, such as carrots with linseed oil; and a “dinner” of tea—sipped with a spoon. There are assigned tables in the dining room, and I’m given a solo window seat. Aside from muffled German, the only conversation is the somber chime of cutlery clanging on porcelain

Lanserhof Lans, Lans

COURTESY OF LANSERHOF LANS

AUSTRIA

plates. “I’m fucking starving,” the clank of a fork says. “Not as hungry as I,” whines the spoon, scraping the last bit of puree off a bowl. Luckily for them, a deafening headache is brewing. Food is to be minced. But everything else must be consumed in its natural state. I learn this when I go to my bioimpedance measurement (basically a body analysis appointment). A striking six-foot-tall expat from Los Angeles has stuck nodules to the bottom of my toes that can measure everything from my BMI to my resting metabolic rate. The bad news? Holy fuck, I’m fat. The funny news? One side (my left) is fatter than the other. The good news? I burn 1,700 calories by simply breathing— most certainly not a low metabolism, and I have more muscle mass than most 40-something women. “It’s likely because of the weight training you did in your 30s,” I’m told. “That’s working in your favor. Add some daily walks to your routine, and you’ll start to burn this off.” I have a deep-tissue massage that releases years of calcified tension in my shoulder blades, but the best treatment is the silent one. At the spa or in the library, I often hear the gentle slap of slippers on marble floors making their way toward me, but no one ever appears. By the sixth day, my hunger pangs and headaches have subsided and my undereye skin is smoother. “Look at how loose your pants are!” Falkensteiner says as she greets me. Indeed, I have lost 4.5 kilos (about 10 pounds). She reviews my blood and urine work, and aside from a vitamin D deficiency, my test results are normal. We agree that the fault line is my wine consumption. The vino must go. My weight loss is rewarded at lunch. There is no sad boiled potato, but an actual meal—a fillet of gilt-head (a firm white fish similar to bass) in a frothy lemon-saffron sauce with a side of avocado and cabbage. The heavens have opened; my stomach is happy. Church bells ring out across the field. “It’s the feast of Corpus Christi,” my waiter tells me. And feast I do. —THERESA O’ROURKE

H o s h i n o y a Ka r u i z a w a

Watching an American in an onsen is like seeing a brown bear twirling pasta. Whereas a Japanese person, who likely grew up with the cultural ritual of the onsen, seems at home soaking in the stone-colored waters, not moving for long stretches of time, periodically getting up and disappearing only to return to hydrostasis, the American usually looks pretty awkward. There is usually a lot of shifting weight, a tendency to move between pools a little too quickly. Onsen etiquette is an art often lost on the American. The cold towel an onsengoer wears on his head to keep cool looks dignified on the Japanese; on the American it looks like a large bird pooped. One particular American spoke to a Japanese fellow who glowed with a kind of post-vacation luminescence—the day before, he had spent seven hours in the onsen, soaking or napping. The Japanese man’s skin beamed, and his eyes beamed harder. Okay, thought the American, let’s do this. Let’s plunge into the stone-colored waters and let our earthly concerns about credit card payments and existential anxieties rise up off our skin and disappear into the hydroether. Let’s move ponderously through the elements—from the sulfur pool to the hot pool to the hotter pool to the sauna and back through the pools—endlessly. But if he can be honest with you, the American was also terrified of entering the onsen, the joyful and celestial and transcendent and supercorporeal onsen, and doing something embarrassing, like compare a cold towel to a fowl dropping. Remember when the American accidentally sat in a Japanese man’s assigned seat on a northbound bullet train? Do you remember what the Japanese man did? Nothing. Just stood there elegantly. The American was not worth his ire; Americans embarrassing themselves is a phenomenon as natural as groundwater swelling into the

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF HOSHINOYA KARUIZAWA (2); THIEMO SANDER/THE LICENSING PROJECT. OPPOSITE PAGE: SILVIA CONDE.

SWEAT IT OUT IN JAPAN

river, only far less subtle. But there are safe spaces for we Americans to explore the reverent qualities of Japanese bathing culture without risk of humiliating ourselves. There are seven, actually: the Hoshinoya constellation of luxury ryokans. The contemporary hotel— and, by some accounts, the very notion of hospitality— owes itself to the Japanese: Monk-run inns that sheltered wandering travelers from the elements (the first ryokans, in 700-ish A.D.) evolved into sprawling campuses where travel-weary rich people can soothe their existential bruises. The upscale ryokan experience unravels the very fabric of comfort, wraps each thread in splendid cultural significance, and weaves it back into a robe for you to relax in while your bath fills by itself after pressing the “Fill Up Bath” button. It is a luxury that supersedes comfort. It is right there next to the light switch of your room at Hoshinoya Karuizawa. Seemingly named for karuishi (volcanic rocks) and sawa (swamp), Karuizawa, a resort town about an hour from Tokyo that I would liken to the Hamptons, lies in the shadow of Mount Asama, one of Japan’s most active volcanoes. What are the odds that Mount Asama will blow when I’m here? I asked one of my nature guides. (“Ha ha!” he non-answers.) Before I arrived, Asama had erupted in 2015—minor, no casualties— although the area has erupted countless times over the last 200 centuries; in some years, multiple blasts occurred over the course of months. There was no eruption. Instead I took my relationship with heaven to the meditation baths at Hoshinoya Karuizawa, which are open from 3 p.m. to 10 a.m. (About six weeks after I left, Asama let forth a burp of ash into the sky.) Interconnected grottoes of hot water wind through rooms of increasing darkness, the humidity growing as the light dims, until the conditions are perfectly womb-like. This is the ideal environment for self-reflection. It feels as though you are descending beneath the mountain, into some primordial space of absolutely nothing. In the opaqueness, you cannot see any other bathers. You cannot see anything. The only sounds are the swishing of the water beneath you, a faraway water feature, and the din of your internal monologue getting quieter, and quieter, and quieter, until it is no longer there. There is another room: A large glass cube that filters in nothing but sunlight, which diffuses through the humidity into what heaven looks like in movies. The American sits on a submerged bench, closes his eyes, and sweats. He sweats out everything that is in him, and then he sweats more. Some unseen part of him, it feels like, is pulled from his pores, congeals at his hairline, and tumbles down his face, and his chest, into the water, where it eventually drains. He could stay there for hours, so he does. —BRENNAN KILBANE

SLEEP BETTER IN

S h a We l l n e s s Clinic, Alicante

SPAIN

If you were to land at Spain’s Alicante airport and head northeast on the black ribbon of highway bounded on both sides by brown, barren landscape, you’d eventually come upon L’Albir, a small, nondescript beach town that could exist anywhere else in Europe, dotted with souvenir shops and a few eateries with plastic tablecloths over thin fabric ones. It is an unlikely locale for Europe’s jet set to unwind, save for the fact that Sha Wellness Clinic, an elite holistic health center and spa, is located on its outskirts. My taxi driver makes a sharp turn away from the beach, winding through stucco-walled residential streets at a steady incline until we come to an abrupt halt. Directly ahead is a waterfall that cascades tastefully over three silver letters: SHA. A striking series of white buildings ascend the cliff like stairs. To my left: the portal to the complex. The silent glass doors

slice open as I enter, feeling like a bumbling earthling who tripped into some pristine world order where pedestrian things like tennis shoes and undereye bags do not exist. Inside, between the glass walls, glossy floors, and dark, quiet hallways, facials, massages, and wellness tuneups are taking place (the menu reveals options like underwater massage, electro-lymphatic drainage, and shiatsu). But this is no “treat yourself” spa. Doctors in starched white coats walk the hallways at a clip, darting to and from consultations and workups with clients. My breakfast outfit is a large piece of fabric and little else— most of Sha’s clientele walk around in the spa’s (of course, white) robe and slippers, only wearing real clothing at dinner, where it’s required. I’m served fresh vegetable juice, miso soup with a slice of lemon, turmeric-and-cardamom oatmeal, a (gluten-free, sugarless) chocolate-and-almond roll, and a slice of tempeh. It’s a far cry from my usual highly processed, highly glutened breakfast, but it’s delicious, and the

panoramic ocean view from Sha’s dining patio could make anything seem palatable. The next few days are a cornucopia of hourly appointments: a private yoga session, a general health exam, a nutritional consultation, a neurocognitive assessment consultation, an acupuncture session, a deep-tissue massage, a “therapeutic recipes” cooking class. It’s Utopia for the wellness set. Every single aspect of your holistic health is measured and considered both quantitatively and qualitatively by medical experts, and then you’re prescribed a proper course of action to optimize that facet of your well-being. Though they offer anti-tobacco, weight control, and stress management programs, I’m here for the Discovery program, which allows neophytes to indulge in a sampler platter of Sha’s offerings over the course of a few days. As one of the few millennials at the spa (likely due to the 1,500- to 7,500-euro price tag of a week at Sha) and a frequent flyer at both my acupuncturist’s office and my local barre studio, I expected to breeze through all my medical workups. I did not. Each doctor grew serious as they asked me a variety of questions. I’m too young, they said, to be reporting the symptoms of fatigue that they were seeing. My massage therapist, a man from the Balkan peninsula with the physique of a bodybuilder, struggled to grapple with my jerky-like shoulders and back. Another doctor warned that if I didn’t sleep more and stress less, I could expect serious health complications down the road. “You must be very strong,” she said, “but you can’t keep doing this to yourself.” There are, of course, more spa-like moments: a microcurrent facial, a mud-mask body treatment administered in a special heated bed. But I was still on the clock writing and editing, waking up early to take advantage of Sha’s sunrise hikes, one of the few opportunities to go off campus. At the end of my stay, I came home feeling slightly better, and a better thing than that: knowing better. —JESSICA CHIA

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many miles an hour. To qualify as a working ranch, an establishment must have at least 50 head of cattle, which the Ranch at Rock Creek does—at least 50 well-fed, loved cattle live out their days roaming the hills—though working is a misnomer. The Ranch is halcyon days of Americana gone by—all the glory of cowboys without dehydration or broken bones. Everyone says “hello” and “good morning,” waving with one hand from their bike. For each activity, there is a self-indulgent reward. Did you spend all day on a horse? There is a saddle soak massage in which you lie in a bathtub filled with essential oils and salts and drink a most delicious apple-ciderand-lemon tincture. Then you get rubbed down in CBD cream. Been fly-fishing all day directly beneath the punishing sun? Impossible—

your guide would have insisted you wear SPF—but there is also a fisherman’s special facial that focuses on exfoliating and soothing, with cream lovingly tapped over your T-zone. The pièce de résistance is a massage in a freestanding wagon styled with wildflowers and parked next to the river. Rain begins to fall. Birds chirp. I spend a full hour staring at rushing water, feet planted in the silt of a riverbed, thinking about nothing more than what the light looks like. The final morning, there was a cowboy breakfast in the foothills, served on picnic tables overlooking the landscape. It’s the most elegant breakfast I can remember. Hours later I traveled back to the East Coast, proudly wearing my cowboy hat. As soon as I sat down on the plane, I fell asleep. —COTTON CODINHA

MONTANA

THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK. OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CAMILLA AKRANS/ AUGUST; COURTESY OF SINGAPORE AIRLINES; THAWORN KIMTONG/EYEEM GETTY IMAGES.

The Ranch at Rock Creek , Philipsburg

Just like nirvana, the Ranch at Rock Creek is hard to get to. The ranch stands tucked outside of Philipsburg, Montana, once a mining town, with a current population of 921, largely employed by the ranch, and it feels completely remote. The main lodge and attendant barns and cabins stand sturdy and unassuming, appointed with Western-inspired prints and gingham amenities, and they are spotless. But clean or not (and God, is it clean), the focus here is not on the accommodations; it’s on the main event: the Great American Outdoors. The light starts and ends early, and the sky spans bigger than your imagination, filled with more stars than could possibly exist. The days are stacked with activities outside—just you, yourself, Mother Nature, and an expert guide whose very happiness seems to rest on your own success at being an outdoorsman. Cowgirls with long, ratty hair, sun-worn smiling eyes, and necklaces strung with sapphires they found in the Sapphire Mountains let you gallop horses through the miles of sage brush. (Speaking of the jewels: At least five people told me that a sapphire in one of Queen Elizabeth’s crowns came from right here in Montana.) Kind young men in sun-protective bucket hats direct you on the ideal fly-fishing stance. Yoga corrections happen on open platforms set under the aspen trees. The horse barn is guarded by three charismatic goats named Gummy Worms, S’mores, and Fruit Snacks, who seem to be under the impression that they are dogs—who also have the ability to scale steep walls. And the horses are majestic. They’re good-tempered and patient and just as ready to take a stroll as they are to lope across a field at

RESET ABOVE THE NORTH POLE Singapore Airlines Flight SQ 21

The Longest Flight in the World sounds like it could be an action film starring an early-aughts Brendan Fraser. It’s not. It’s something I took recently from Newark to Singapore, tucked cozily away for 18 and a half hours in a business-class pod on an Airbus A350. (Months after I disembarked, Qantas started flying from New York to Sydney for a total flying time of 19 and a quarter hours. If those 45 minutes matter deeply to you, then know you are about to read about the Second Longest Flight in the World.) Even when you’ve mentally reconciled the amount of time your flight will take, you arrive, and sometimes it’s tomorrow or yesterday. The sun is skipping shifts, basically shooting banana peels at your circadian rhythm. It’s a time warp enough just taking a red-eye across the Atlantic. And here I am, about to travel the furthest from home I’ve ever been, for a duration longer than most folks are normally awake at a stretch. I have to just surrender to the time warp that awaits. All the cozy socks and hydrating masks can’t undo the fact that flying means shooting through the sky in a metal tube—and that does wonky things to the body. Most folks are familiar with the effects of low air pressure causing a buildup of gas in your body, making you swell and bloat, clogging your ears, as well as increasing the effects of alcohol, making you weep at the finale of Zootopia. But that’s not all! The below-desert-level humidity dries up your nasal passages, making your sense of smell and taste significantly duller, your skin much drier, and you body way more dehydrated. Taking into account how the Longest Flight in the World could be cause for some health concern, Singapore Airlines invoked the expertise of Canyon Ranch wellness architects to elevate the flight experience. Canyon Ranch, a land- and seabased spa with outposts in Massachusetts, Arizona, and elsewhere, has taken to the skies, offering a menu of healthy but not sad food as well as the best stretches to do in your seat. It took a bit of swiping and tapping to find the stretches on the TV screen’s programming in my pod, but once I did, I could zone out to the soothing exercise instruction that, honestly, any marathon-flier should know. Here are some of them: Seated upright, cross one ankle over the opposite knee and lean over it. Repeat. Lift both legs out in front of you like a Barbie doll and rotate your ankles. Adding a little toe-wiggling flair, like the feet equivalent of jazz hands. Jazz feet.

The shoulder stretches look a bit like you’re theatrically shrugging and also rotating them in forward and then backward circles (jazz shoulders), and the torso stretch is your basic mattress-commercial “My, what a restful sleep I’ve had” kind of motion, with arms stretched upward, twisting side to side. One of the air hostesses brightly smiled in my direction, thinking I had a request, and I shook my head to deflect, indicating that I was just stretching. All in all, it’s a great lowlevel body prep for meal or nap number six. I managed to clock about four to five hours of actual full sleep, which, as someone who can never quite sleep on flights, I consider a victory. Not that comfortably lounging around in a half-sleep state is the worst, so it’s nice to get some edge on jet lag. There’s a specific strange body sensation on flights that’s a bit like the intersection of slight carsickness and post-nap fuzziness. The body yearns for something nourishing to put it at ease. I don’t know what it is about traveling that makes me ravenous, despite not really doing much but sitting around and waiting, but I often find myself gnawing at all the worst bloat-inducing, salty snacks out of boredom or jet lag. The food was food—not airline food. My wonder at that cannot be overstated. The roasted beet and burrata appetizer introduced me to my first in-flight fennel, and when your taste buds are at a handicap, every herb counts. The seared halibut was just the right balance of light but juicy that left me with a generous serving of flavor rather than the feeling of being too full (the advantage of a fish entree). Topped off with a heavenly lemon angel food cake, that bit of tart sweetness was flavor layering at its 35,000-feet best. After I dozed off once more to ambient airplane white noise (followed by completing another round of jazz feet and shoulders), the pilot announced the initial descent, the cabin lights brightened, and the rest of the passengers began clicking laptops shut and zipping up briefcases and carry-ons, eager to finally be back on land. As for me, I was excited to run around Singapore for the first time, perhaps a little healthier than when I took off. —SABLE YONG

Heaven on Earth A blanket of smog obscures the sunset into a soft gradient. On the eyes, powder blue is blended into cotton candy blush at the crease and dusted with glitter. Makeup colors on Sab Zada: Infallible 24 HR Eye Shadow in Timeless Blue Spark and True Match Blush in Sweet Ginger by Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Paris. Glitter Injections in Amor and Love Letter. These pages: Fashion stylist, Simon Robins. Hair: Teddy Charles. Manicure: Ashlie Johnson. Production: Preiss Creative.

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ON A RECENT TRIP TO LOS ANGELES, THE MAKEUP ARTIST VIOLETTE FOUND INSPIRATION IN THE AMETHYST DUSK, IN THE CONCRETE EXPANSES, IN THE TEETERING, TOWERING PALMS. HER PARTNER AND COLLABORATOR, STEVEN PAN, DOCUMENTED THE JOURNEYâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;FIVE MAKEUP LOOKS, PUNCTUATED BY THE CITY ITSELF.

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Crimson Tide In 1923, a larger-than-life sign was erected to advertise a new housing development called Hollywoodland. Years later, it birthed a mythology of its ownâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;money, fame, glamour, red lips. To get this particular rich and famous effect, Violette topped a red liquid lipstick with a matte pink blush. Makeup colors on Khadijha Red Thunder: Pure Color Envy Paint-On Liquid LipColor in Poppy Sauvage and Pure Color Envy Sculpting Blush in Wild Sunset by EstĂŠe Lauder.

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Starlet Sky Up north in Big Sur, twilight splashes the sky with more stars than seem possible. In L.A., youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have to create your own with nail art stickers you find on Amazon. Makeup colors on Brianna Marquez: Nourishing Brow Pencil in Dark Brown, Hydro Boost Plumping Mascara in Black, and Hydro Boost Hydrating Lip Shine in Soft Blush by Neutrogena.

The Ore the Merrier The Los Angeles River, which bisects the city from Simi Hills to Long Beach, was overrun with gold prospectors as recently as 1938. Most found lead, copper, or brass, which they could sell for as much as $25 a day. The riverbed has since been paved over with concrete. Here, Violette achieved a glinty finish with Glitter Injections in Love Letter, a pressed glitter formula, but you can also strike big (and fine-tune a cat-eye shape) with a coppery gel pencil. Makeup colors: Brow Ultra Slim Defining Eyebrow Pencil in Deep Brown and Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Balm in Quenched by Maybelline New York.

Neon Heat Venice Beach was founded in 1905 by millionaire Abbot Kinney, who sought to replicate Venice, Italy, by digging canals and hiring gondoliers. A century later it became a haven for pinkhaired artists and eccentrics, but the area now faces rampant development and gentrification (the L.A. Times credits/blames a 2012 GQ article). A shimmery seafoam shadow straddles the line between weirdo and gentry quite beautifully. Louis Vuitton blazer. Makeup colors: Easy Breezy Volumizing Brow Gel in Deep, Full Spectrum So Saturated Eyeshadow Palette in Zodiac, and Exhibitionist Mascara in Very Black by CoverGirl. Details, see allure.com/credits.

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T TR HER AN Eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; SP S S OR OM TIN ET G HIN AB OU G UN T T FE HE TT FR ERE EE D, DO LIB BY M O ERA LIA F A TIN NA CL G, M SC OSE AY HA CR BE FF OP NE . R

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Take a hike Preferably on the Henry Head trail in Kamay Botany Bay National Park, Sydney

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thing delicious about letting the wind play havoc with my hair, so that it shapeshifts like a winter cloud. And when my ends curve right under my cheekbones, it reminds me of the way my youngest son cups my face to look into my eyes, and sees all of me. That is the power of short hair. Stripped of the social cues and historical references, it just says: “I’m here. This is me.” That’s all anybody needs to know.

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

Why does short hair always have to mean something? The moment we come across a style that sits somewhere above a woman’s jawline, we squint. Hmm. What’s going on there? We immediately investigate the motivations behind it. It’s as though clipped ends—like the dots and dashes of Morse code—telegraph a hidden message, usually explosive in nature. Is she on the rebound? Did she just lose a job? A boyfriend? An election? Her mind? Considering the prominent place that short hair occupies in our history and imaginations, it’s a fair question. Beloved by activists, aviators, and Jazz Age expatriates, short hair is practically shorthand for impressive displays of freedom and defiance. On a less consequential note, it’s a favorite plot device in pretty much any film starring Audrey Hepburn. How many times have we watched some wide-eyed ingenue bob her hair, only to emerge shorn and reborn as a tower of worldly sophistication? (Hint: a lot.) Before you dismiss this as an outdated mode of thinking, consider this: My nine-year-old son informed me last month that my new chin-length bob makes me look like “a strong businesswoman…or maybe an old-fashioned suffragette.” Although I appreciate the sentiment (I think), I can confidently declare I am neither one of those things. My chances of flying private, overthrowing the patriarchy, or appearing on a silver dollar are slim at best. But it seems my hair suggests otherwise; its razored edges convey a steely inner core. On some level, we’ve convinced ourselves that the only reason a woman would cut her long hair—that lustrous symbol of youth and fertility—is to prove a point. And that idea is so deeply ingrained that even a third grader can pick up on it, including one who just pieced together that chicken nuggets are made of chicken. So maybe it’s time for an honest confession: There’s nothing heroic about my haircut. It doesn’t liberate anything besides my cheekbones—and that’s enough. I’m perfectly willing to remove inches for no other reason than to feel beautiful, because short hair is beautiful. “Once you cut off the safety blanket of length, you reveal everything it was hiding,” says hairstylist Matt Fugate. “Your cheekbones,

FROM LEFT: NICOLE BENTLEY; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (5)

THE ABRIDGED VERSION

Short hair speaks a language all its own. The right products and accessories will help you make a statement—or occasionally, an exclamation. 1. Sincerely Jules x Scünci headband. 2. Goody barrettes. 3. Anita Ko ear cuff. 4. Tory Burch scarf. 5. Oribe AirStyle Flexible Finish Cream and Fiber Groom Elastic Texture Paste. 6. BaubleBar hair clip. 7. Kristin Ess Dry Finish Working Texture Spray. 8. Faris earrings. 9. Kenra Platinum Texturizing Taffy 13. 10. Epona Valley barrette. Details, see allure.com/credits.

T H I N G

Tommy x Zendaya dress, gloves, and earrings. Makeup colors: Color Design 5 Pan Eyeshadow Palette in Teal Fury and Dual Finish Highlighter in Radiant Rose Gold by Lancôme. Details, see allure .com/credits.

CURRENT BEAUTY OBSESSION? My nails. I do my own gel polish: I wasn’t ever satisfied completely when someone else did it, so I [said], “You know what, I’m going to do it myself.” I bought the lamp and all the supplies I needed and never looked back.

O N E

M O R E

tubs of Aquaphor in our house. You just have to have it. If you have a cut, if you have dry lips, if you have anything, it’ll fix it.

CURRENT OBSESSION, PERIOD? I think my current obsession, in general, is interior decor. I feel like I could be an interior designer. It would be my dream to design a hotel. THE MOST-USED ITEM IN YOUR MAKEUP BAG? Probably the mascara. You can do pretty much nothing, maybe a little whatever, but mascara kind of brings everything together. My favorite is Lancôme Monsieur Big. [She is a spokesperson for the brand.]

W I T H Z E N D AYA

WHAT ARE THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR HEADTURNING RED-CARPET LOOKS? The three people on my glam team: You got Law [Roach]; my stylist, Ursula [Stephen], on hair; Sheika [Daley] on makeup. Those three people make it happen. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE THING ABOUT YOUR FACE? I quite like my [right front] tooth. It just lives outside my mouth. I used to hate it when I was younger, and then I decided I was

114 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020

going to get Invisalign or something, [but] I was like, “No, fuck that.” And I kept it, and I’m glad I kept it. YOUR BEST BEAUTY SHORTCUT? Coloring my hair because I use this stuff called Overtone. It’s a color-depositing conditioner, and it’s so easy—boom! That’s what I’ve been using for this red [as seen on her at the 2019 Emmys]. I mix the red and the orange, put it in there, rinse it,

and then it’ll wash out within a month. BESIDES RUE IN EUPHORIA, WHO’S THE BEST CHARACTER YOU’VE PLAYED, BEAUTY-WISE? I would say Anne Wheeler from The Greatest ShowmanÑthat pink wig was fun. And the soft, opalescent kind of makeup was really nice. WHAT IS THE LAST PRODUCT YOU FINISHED? I’m assuming Aquaphor because we always have

WHAT IS A BEAUTY LOOK YOU’RE DYING TO TRY NEXT? I pretty much have tried everything. I think maybe I can have a little bit more fun with eye shadow and playing with the shape of my eyes. CAN YOU SHARE YOUR GREATEST BEAUTY EXTRAVAGANCE? This sounds bad, but I get sent so much stuff that I don’t really have to spend money on anything, which is really backwards, right? It’s like the more you can afford stuff, the more free stuff you get, which doesn’t make a lot of sense.

MIGUEL REVERIEGO

just asking...

AND THE MOST-USED ITEM IN YOUR SHOWER? Probably the shampoo. It’s Philip Kingsley for a dry, flaky scalp. Sometimes I get dandruff, and it is the best thing I’ve found that cuts that out. And this one doesn’t strip your hair.

IT’S RETINOL BUT THAT’S NOT ALL Our proprietary blend of Vitamin B3 plus retinoid complex visibly smooths, brightens, and evens tone with virtually no irritation.

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