FEATURES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
52 Creating COVID-Safe Spaces Cafés Adapted Overnight in Response to International Pandemic By Janae Easlon
60 “The Mountains Are Calling...” The Fresh Cup Guide to Brewing On-The-Go By Caitlin Carter
ON THE COVER: 8 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Photo courtesy of Vesta Coffee Roasters, Las Vegas.
JULY/AUGUST 2020 NUMBER 5
16
News & Events The Filter By Fresh Cup Staff
42
DEPARTMENTS
VOLUME 29
30
38
How We Weather the Storm
The Rise of the Digital Roaster
In House
The Whole Bean
By Michael Ryan
By Levi Rogers
46
Jennifer “Vern” Long, World Coffee Research
Ghost Town Coffee Roasters
Do You Know?
By Maria Anderson
Café Crossroads
By Caitlin Carter
78
How to Start Decreasing Waste in Your Business Sustainable Matters By Janae Easlon
10 | COVID-19 STATEMENT
13 | CONTRIBUTORS
68 | COUNTER INTELLIGENCE
12 | EDITOR’S LETTER
14 | RESOURCES
82 | ADVERTISER INDEX F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 9
COVID-19 STATEMENT
F
or nearly three decades, it’s been our mission to serve as a voice for the coffee and tea industry. We recognize how tough these times are, and after a brief hiatus, we are back more dedicated than ever to support you,
our readers, as best as possible. Last month, we launched a survey asking our community to share their experiences of how the pandemic has affected them, and the results are in. Visit FreshCup.com for the exclusive report on what challenges we’re continuing to face, how we’re supporting our employees during this time, what solutions we’re coming up with, and more. In response to the coronavirus, and moving forward, we will be publishing the magazine bimonthly and working from home. Feel free to get in touch with us at info@freshcup.com with any press releases, story ideas, or just to say “hello.” We look forward to hearing from you, and to continuing to deliver thorough coverage on topics important to our industry. Stay safe and be well, The Fresh Cup Team
10 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
EDITOR’S LETTER
Fr esh Cup M agaz ine
“We can’t continue business as usual.”
T
—JENNIFER “ VERN” LONG
hese words come from an interview with Vern Long back in February, then pertaining to one of the defining issues of our time: climate change. Little did we know just how prophetic they’d prove to be four months later. Fresh Cup is back from a hiatus, during which we’ve reflected, recouped, and reevaluated the part we want to play in helping to guide and support our industry toward a better future. But what does that look like these days? What does coffee’s future hold amid climate change, the cost crisis, and the racial inequities that have played a major part in its history, and continue to this day? We don’t pretend to have all the answers. But what we can give you is advice on how to face the challenges of today (p. 30), inspiration from other cafés on how they’ve adapted to the pandemic (p. 52), and resources to help guide your business decisions (p. 14). We can continue talking to industry professionals as they work to find solutions (p. 42) and highlighting products that enhance our daily lives (p. 60). And as Fresh Cup moves forward in its mission to support and empower our industry, I turn to those who also seek truth, justice, and a better future. During Royal Coffee’s recent “Race & Specialty Coffee” webinar, BD Imports’ Phyllis Johnson and Royal’s Candice Madison discussed what they think this catalytic year will bring. “The pandemic, the economic downturn, race riots, the protests, the brutality from policemen—everything’s playing out like we’re not living in the real world. But it’s also given us a time to reflect,” said Johnson. “I knew I would not come out...in the same way that I went in. I knew that it would be for the better. I just had no idea there were so many lessons for all of us to learn, and for all of us to get on the same page.” My last letter to you ended with, “We are all in this together.” We can’t know what these next months will hold as states maneuver reopening, as business owners make decisions that greatly impact their staff and customers, and as November 3 creeps ever closer. But we do know, from here on out, it’s not business as usual. Because if we try to go back to “normal”—before the pandemic turned the world on its head; before the tragic murders of Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and George Floyd set off the most explosive movement many of us had yet to witness in our lifetime; before more and more individuals stepped forward to share their experiences of marginalization in the industry—we undo all the progress that we’ve been making these last few months. “If we at this time don’t galvanize as an industry...if we don’t use this momentum, we’re gonna be left behind, because the world is changing,” said Candice Madison. “Together is how we progress—not apart.”
FR ESH CUP PUBLISHING Publisher and President J AN WEI GEL jan@freshcup.com EDITOR IAL Editor CAI TL I N CAR TER editor@freshcup.com Associate Editor J ANAE EA SLON janae@freshcup.com ART Art Director CY NTHI A M EADOR S cynthia@freshcup.com ADVERTISING Sales J AN WEI GEL jan@freshcup.com Ad Coordinator DI ANE HOWAR D adtraffic@freshcup.com ACCOUNTING Account ing M anager DI ANE HOWAR D diane@freshcup.com FR ESH CUP FOUNDER WAR D BAR BEE 1938-2006
E D I TO R I A L A DV I S O R Y B OA R D ALFONSO CARMONA Sustainable Harvest Coffee Importers
JEN HURD Genuine Origin
CHUCK JONES Jones Coffee Roasters
BRUCE MILLETTO Bellissimo Coffee Advisors
BRAD PRICE Phillips Syrups & Sauces
MICHAEL RYAN Threadbare Coffee Co.
MANISH SHAH Maya Tea Co.
LARRY WINKLER Torani
S U BS CR I P T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N Fresh Cup Magazine is distributed worldwide bi-monthly by post. Available by subscription: price—one year US $48, two years US $68, one year Canada $55, all other countries $85 per year. Single issues—$5-$10 each, plus shipping. (Checks must be drawn on a US-affiliated bank.) PLEASE ALLOW 6–8 WEEKS FOR DELIVERY OF FIRST ISSUE.
Copyright ©2020 by Fresh Cup Publishing Company Inc. Contents may not be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. ISSN: 1094-8228 S U BS CR I P T I O N Q U E ST I O N S ? EMAIL: freshcup@pfsmag.com CALL: 888-881-5861 PO Box 92735, Long Beach, CA 90809-9639 F R E S H CU P M A I L I N G A D D R E SS PO BOX 14827, Portland, OR 97293 PHONE: 503/236-2587 | FAX: 503/236-3165 F R E S H CU P P R O U D LY S P O N S O R S N O N P R O F I TS
CAITLIN CARTER, EDITOR
editor@freshcup.com
12 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
F R E S H C U P. CO M
CONTRIBUTORS
MARIA ANDERSON’s writing
JANAE EASLON is the
LEVI ROGERS is a writer and
MICHAEL RYAN is a veteran
has recently appeared or is
associate editor at Fresh
coffee roaster based out of
of the coffee industry with
forthcoming in McSweeney’s
Cup Magazine. Her writing
Portland, Oregon. He is the
over 10 years of experi-
Quarterly, Sewanee Review,
focuses on community,
cofounder of La Barba Cof-
ence serving, roasting,
Distinctly Montana, Western
sustainability, and business,
fee in Salt Lake City, Utah,
and buying coffee. He is
Confluence, Edible Bozeman,
as seen on p. 52 and 78. She
and currently a certified Q
the cofounder of Thread-
and Alpinist. She lives in
lives in Portland, Oregon,
grader at Sustainable Harvest
bare Coffee, a consulting
Bozeman, Montana, home
with her dog Herb.
Coffee Importers. Read his
company that strives to
to Ghost Town Coffee
Fresh Cup debut, “The Rise
unite timeless principles
Roasters—turn to p. 46 for
of the Digital Roaster,” on
with modern methods in
Anderson’s profile of the café.
p. 38.
the coffee industry. Ryan is passionate about writing, speaking, teaching, and helping small businesses thrive, as demonstrated by his article on p. 30, “How We Weather the Storm.”
CALL FOR WRITERS
S
ince 1992, Fresh Cup Magazine has thoroughly documented the rising, rapidly modernizing beverage and foodservice trade, and where it’s headed. Our articles provide insightful, in-depth information on the most important business topics for enterprising café owners, bringing readers into successful and unique cafés around the globe, highlighting news and innovations, discussing best business practices, analyzing trends in coffee and tea, and introducing key industry players.
Fresh Cup is actively seeking contributors for both our print and digital platforms. Whether you’re a longtime barista trainer, new café manager, full-time freelance writer, or simply have a story to tell, please reach out to our editor, Caitlin Carter, at editor@freshcup.com. We look forward to hearing from you. For further pitching guidelines, visit freshcup.com/resources/ contributor-guidelines.
EVENTS CALENDAR
W
ith the ever-changing updates, postponements, and cancellations of industry events in light of the COVID-19 pandemic, Fresh Cup is no longer printing an Events Calendar. Please head to freshcup.com/events-calendar/ for the most up-to-date information.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 13
RESOURCES
A
s we begin to navigate this new era, it’s crucial to seek out tools necessary to helping our businesses and employees succeed. From connecting baristas with
each other and supporting mental health during these stressful times, to providing reopening guidelines and promoting racial justice, here is a comprehensive (though not exhaustive) list of resources to inform and empower your business decisions.
AFL-CIO aflcio.org
OSHA osha.gov
V ir t ual Tip Jar s virtualtipjars.org
American Federation of Labor & Congress of Industrial Organizations.
Occupational Safety & Health Administration.
Search by city to give tips directly to your favorite service industry worker.
EMPLOYEE RIGHTS & SUPPORT
COFFEE & TEA Barista Behind the Bar instagram.com/ baristabehindthebar
Coff ee Fest coffeefest.com/ resources
@ getchusomegear instagram.com/ getchusomegear
The Kor e Dir ect iv e instagram.com/ thekoredirective
Camila Coddou’s project centering baristas’ stories and engaging in dialogue to foster a more intersectional and diverse specialty coffee world.
Resources including webinars, podcasts, articles, and more to help the specialty coffee and tea industry.
Donate coffee gear for marginalized baristas.
London-based coffee initiative by womxn, for womxn, with all welcome to join their weekly “Coffee Chats” via Zoom.
Fostering collective education, encouraging open discussion, and nurturing and inspiring new generations of trans people and gender nonconforming people.
Slow Pour Supply slowpoursupply.co
We the Or igin wetheorigin.com
A socially driven coffee tools company supporting coffee people.
A worldwide collective of coffee and tech folks with a shared vision for a sustainable and transparent coffee industry.
The Chocolate Barista thechocolatebarista.com Promoting racial diversity and inclusivity in the specialty coffee industry, created by coffee professional Michelle Johnson. Coff ee at Lar ge instagram.com/ coffeeatlarge Seattle-based baristas dedicated to empowering coffee workers everywhere.
14 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Coff ee Technicians Guild coffeetechniciansguild. org/covid19-communityresources A database of resources submitted by the global specialty coffee community. Coff eeisOpen coffeeisopen.com Connecting customers with what shops are open nearby and what precautions they’re taking amid COVID-19.
Global Coff ee Plat f or m globalcoffeeplatform.org Supporting sustainability and connecting coffee producers and professionals around the globe through virtual platforms. GoFundBean gofundbean.com/cafes Supporting baristas around the world by sharing virtual tip jars. Jenn Chen jennchen.com Freelance coffee marketer providing consultation, digital marketing coaching, social media training, and more.
Specialt y Coff ee Associat ion sca.coffee Nonprofit connecting, supporting, and educating coffee professionals around the world through webinars, trainings, virtual events, and more.
Trans & Caff einated transandcaffeinated.com
#BLM ACLU aclu.org
Black Liv es Matter blacklivesmatter.com
Equal Just ice Init iat iv e eji.org
Fighting for civil liberties across the U.S.
Campaigning against violence and systemic racism towards Black people.
Committed to ending mass incarceration and excessive punishment in the U.S.
Adv ancement Pr oject advancementproject.org Multi-racial civil rights organization dedicated to strengthening social movements and achieving high-impact policy change. Ant i-Racism Resour ces bit.ly/ ANTIRACISMRESOURCES A document providing essential reading materials, podcasts, films, and more to engage in antiracism work.
Crisis Tex t Line crisistextline.org 24/7 Text Line: Text HOME to 741741
The Black upStar t theblackupstart.com Training aspiring Black entrepreneurs how to start a successful and profitable business. Campaign Zer o joincampaignzero.org Committed to ending police violence in America. Color of Change colorofchange.org
The Mar shall Pr oject themarshallproject.org Nonprofit journalism about criminal justice. Minorit y Business Dev elopment Agency mbda.gov Promoting growth and competitiveness of the U.S.’s minority-owned businesses.
NAACP Legal Def ense & Educat ional Fund naacpldf.org Fighting for racial justice through litigation, advocacy, and public education. Nat ional Bail Fund Net w ork bit.ly/localbailfunds A directory of community bail funds by state. Nat ional Black Just ice Coalit ion nbjc.org Civil rights organization serving the Black LGBTQ+ community.
The nation’s largest online racial justice organization.
Headspace headspace.com/ unemployed The meditation app is offering a free oneyear subscription to unemployed workers in the U.S.
The Ok ra Pr oject theokraproject.com Supporting the Black trans community by providing free home-cooked meals. Philanthr opic Init iat iv e f or Racial Equit y racialequity.org Providing resources aimed at combating institutional and structural racism in communities. U. S. Black Chamber s usblackchambers.org The national voice of Black business providing leadership and advocacy in the realization of economic empowerment.
Nat ional Suicide Pr ev ent ion Lif eline suicideprevention lifeline.org 1-800-273-TALK (8255) 1-888-628-9454 (Spanish) 1-800-799-4889 (Deaf & Hard of Hearing)
MENTAL HEALTH
RESTAURANTS Fisher Phillips fisherphillips.com/fisherphillips-comprehensivecovid-19-resource-center Providing resources including timely legal insights, practical guidance, and more tools for employers.
Fr ontline Foods frontlinefoods.org Support local restaurants that have been impacted by shelter-in-place measures, while feeding healthcare workers on the frontlines of the pandemic.
Independent Restaurant Coalit ion saverestaurants.com
Nat ional Restaurant Associat ion restaurant.org/covid19
Souther n Smoke Foundat ion southernsmoke.org
A group formed by chefs and independent restaurant owners across the country fighting for the nation’s independent restaurants and restaurant workers impacted by the coronavirus pandemic.
Resources for restaurant operators to navigate the new challenges COVID-19 has presented the foodservice industry, from critical advocacy work to best practices to reopen.
Houston-based nonprofit created to raise funds for charitable purposes, principally for support and assistance for those in the food and beverage community and their suppliers.
Restaurant Workers’ Community Foundation restaurantworkerscf.org
Spill the Dish spillthedish.com
An advocacy and action nonprofit created by and for restaurant workers.
Helping restaurant workers and owners find assistance during this challenging time.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 15
THE FILTER MiiR Reaches “Climate Neutral” Status
I
n April, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of Earth Day, Seattle’s MiiR announced it reached Climate Neutral Status by “measuring its 2019 greenhouse gas emissions footprint, purchasing carbon credits to offset that footprint, and implementing plans to reduce emissions this year and beyond.” On top of its B Corp certification, MiiR now joins more than 100 brands that are Climate Neutral Certified. To become Climate Neutral Certified, companies begin by first esti-
Steeped Coffee Launches “You Give, We Give” Campaign
S
teeped, the California-based Certified B Corporation specializing in eco-friendly single-serve coffee bags, has launched a new campaign to help fuel and lift the spirits of frontline workers as they battle the COVID-19 crisis. “You Give, We Give” invites customers to gift Steeped Coffee Packs to doctors, nurses, firefighters, police, and other healthcare workers and first responders, with Steeped matching all gifts, pack for pack, and providing free weekly deliveries directly to the hospitals, stations, and clinics where they’re needed most. The campaign has kickstarted in the Bay Area, with the hopes to expand giving efforts quickly with the help of its national network. “We are always looking for ways Steeped can serve as a positive force for good,” says Josh Wilbur, founder and CEO. “People don’t want to use shared coffee pots right now, and those on the frontlines don’t have time to make coffee runs during crazy long shifts. “Sometimes a simple cup of great coffee can make a difference.” Visit steepedcoff ee.com/yougivewegive to learn more and support those on the frontlines.
16 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTOS, LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY OF STEEPED COFFEE, INSTAGRAM @MIIR
mating all of the carbon emissions from making and delivering their products or services. Companies must then follow a set of standards for buying verified carbon credits to offset their entire footprint. All Climate Neutral Certified companies also commit to a reduction action plan to cut future emissions. MiiR is also a certified B corporation and is now one of about 100 brands that are Climate Neutral Certified. In the past year, MiiR implemented a reduction strategy by using more recycled and biodegradable materials and created a program that works to eliminate returned product adding to the waste stream. “It’s our belief that we must celebrate bright spots while continuing to work hard on initiatives that support the health of communities around the world,” says Charlie Clark, MiiR Director of Impact. “To us, helping empower people for a better future means a commitment to the wellbeing of our global community, both now and for the long term.”
Square x SCA Coffee Report
S
quare, the software company known for payment and financial services for small businesses, teamed up with the Specialty Coffee Association to create a report that surveys the status of the industry amid COVID-19. The data was collected by coffee shops that use Square products. According to the report, three in four coffee shops that use Square continued to operate during shelter-in-place orders around the country. Other key findings included a 109% increase in coffee subscription sales at active coffee shops, and an over 5,000% percent increase in curbside and pickup orders. “These trends seem to represent more than a moment in time—they likely indicate a greater transformation of the specialty coffee industry, and a new way that coffee shops work within the communities they serve,” says SCA Chief Research Officer Peter Giuliano. To read the full report, visit squareup.com/us/en/payments/coff ee.
PHOTOS, LEFT TO RIGHT: INSTAGRAM @MIIR, SQUAREUP.COM
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 17
The Filter
Perfect Daily Grind Launches PDG Brasil
I
n April, Perfect Daily Grind launched PDG Brasil, its first Portuguese-language website, to accompany its English- and Spanish-language websites, with a full-time team based in both Brazil and Portugal.
Updates to Clarion Events
C
larion Events Food & Beverage Group announced in May that four upcoming restaurant, foodservice, and specialty coffee events are canceled: the Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo/Healthy Food Expo West and Coffee Fest Anaheim, originally scheduled for August 9–11 in Anaheim, California; Coffee Fest Chicago, August 28–30, Chicago, Illinois; and the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show/Healthy Food Expo Florida, scheduled September 22–23 in Orlando, Florida. “We have seen the impact COVID-19 has had on the food and beverage industry and our hearts are with our friends and colleagues,” says Tom Loughran, vice president of Clarion. “We are saddened and disappointed we have to cancel our industry events, however, in light of both government direction and general public health advisories we believe it is not possible at this time for a safe public gathering.”
As of press time, the remaining 2020 event, Coffee Fest PNW, is still slated for October 24–25 at the Greater Tacoma Convention Center in Tacoma, Washington. Clarion also plans to resume with events in 2021 including the NGA Show, the International Restaurant & Foodservice Show of New York/Coffee Fest New York/Healthy Food Expo New York, Coffee Fest San Antonio, the Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo/Coffee Fest Anaheim/Healthy Food Expo West, and the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show/Healthy Food Expo Florida. “We continue to be committed to providing operators and the overall restaurant, foodservice, catering, and coffee/tea industry with tools to connect and rebuild their business,” adds Loughran. “We look forward to bringing to operators and manufacturers both virtual and potentially more intimate face-to-face gatherings when the timing is right.”
“In the international press, much is said about coffee as a commodity and the marketing of green coffee,” says Giuliana Bastos, Brazilian coffee professional. “Little is said about research on new varieties, processing and agricultural management techniques…the consumption of specialty coffees, the market for coffee shops, and preparation methods.” Brazil’s 300,000 coffee farmers produce nearly 40% of the world’s coffee, on top of being one of the top consuming countries. With the launch of PDG Brasil, the media company is angling itself to address specific needs of Brazilian coffee culture, including knowledge on specialty coffee production and consumption from local experts, alongside educational content relevant to international readers throughout the supply chain.
For more information on Clarion events, as well as access to its COVID-19 Resource Center, visit foodandbevshows.com.
Follow along at perfectdailygrind.com/pt/.
18 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTOS, LEFT TO RIGHT: INSTAGRAM @COFFEEFESTSHOW, INSTAGRAM @PDGBRASIL
Vahdam Teas Announces Initiative to Protect Tea Workers
I
ndian tea purveyor Vahdam Teas has announced a new initiative supporting its tea plantation suppliers: an interest-free loan program offering $100,000 to tea estates to ease cash flow and pay their workers with oneweek distribution. As the second-largest employer in India, the tea industry, made up of more than 1 million farmers and owners, is facing hardships due to the failing crop and low revenue. With a passion for saving India’s tea heritage, 30-year-old Vahdam founder and fourth-generation tea entrepreneur Bala Sarda aims to make tea farmers a priority. He has also implemented charitable contributions during the pandemic, inducing: donating $300,000 worth of tea to frontline medical workers; partnering with Child Rights & You (CRY) to distribute dry ration packs; and distributing 600 hygiene kits for families containing essentials and board games. Visit vahdamteas.com to learn more about the company.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF VAHDAM TEAS
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 19
The Filter
Portland Coffee Roasters Achieves SQF Food Safety Certification
O
regon’s Portland Coffee Roasters announced in May that it achieved certification under the Safe Quality Food (SQF) Food Safety Code for Manufacturing, making it among the first independent specialty roasters in the United States certified to this level. Launched in 1994, the SQF Program is recognized by retailers, brand owners, and food service providers worldwide. Benchmarked by the Global Food Safety Initiative (GFSI), the SQF family of food safety and quality codes are designed to meet industry, customer, and regulatory requirements for all sectors of the food supply chain––from farms all the way to retail stores. Widely considered one of the most rigorous and comprehensive food safety and quality standards in the world, SQF certifica-
20 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
tion provides independent verification that a facility’s food safety and risk mitigation strategies are effective and scientifically sound.
Achieving SQF certification requires tight control at every step of the supply chain and manufacturing process to ensure that products are produced, packaged and distributed in a manner that prioritizes consumer safety and minimizes the likelihood of product recalls. Although Portland Coffee Roasters has undergone annual third-party food safety audits for over
15 years, it took several months to design, implement, and continuously verify programs to meet the exacting requirements of the SQF code and receive the certificate. “This is an incredible accomplishment for Portland Coffee Roasters, and we are honored to be among the nation’s first independent specialty roasters certified,” says Nathaniel Lamers, SQF practitioner and safety coordinator at Portland Coffee Roasters. “Our company is committed to providing coffee that meets the highest food safety and quality standards, and we’re excited to earn this distinction at a time when the importance of public health and safety is so readily apparent.” For more information, visit portlandcoff eeroasters.com.
PHOTO COURTESY OF PORTLAND COFFEE ROASTERS
Yunnan Province Launches Blockchain Platform
C
hina’s Yunnan province recently unveiled a blockchain-powered platform to track its $2.5 billion worth of pu’er tea production across supply chains. According to a report by Chinanews.com, Pu’er City developed an interest in origin tracing and blockchain technology in 2019, leading to the creation of the pilot “Quality blockchain traceability platform” in March. Following the successful completion of the pilot, the traceability platform was announced on June 3, at the 2020 Phoenix Nest Ancient Tree Spring Tea New Product Launch Conference in Kunming, Yunnan. By scanning a QR code, users can find out the product’s raw material base, production process, warehousing, quality testing, financing, and more data; the blockchain platform also enables verification of the tea’s authenticity and even facilitates sales. The technology will be used to conduct quality control, sales, and loan financing, allowing data to be easily and securely shared between all terminals in the supply chain. At this time, 25 products from 25 companies have been launched through the platform.
PHOTO BY MACAU PHOTO AGENCY
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 21
The Filter
Bissy Energy Wins Orgain’s “Grants for Greater Good” Competition
B
issy Energy, an alternative energy drink made from the Western African kola fruit, was recently named a winner of Orgain’s “Grants for Greater Good” competition. The grant program was first announced in February, with the goal of enabling small health-oriented businesses to thrive, and received hundreds of applicants. Winners would be determined based on three criteria: mission (Does the company’s product or service help people live vibrants lives through nutrition, an active lifestyle, or mindfulness?), innovation (Does the company take an innovative approach to fulfilling a marketplace need, and can it maintain a unique advantage vs. competition?), and scalability (Does the company have significant and clearly identified growth potential?).
KOLA NUT FARMERS with Bissy Energy co-owner Zach En’Wezoh (third from right) in Nigeria.
In June, Bissy Energy, along with two other companies, were named the winners of a $50,000 grant each to help take their businesses to the next level. Naturally derived from the kola fruit, native to western Africa, Bissy is an on-the-go shot containing 160mg of caffeine and packed with antioxidants from ginger, cinnamon, clove, and vanilla. Bissy is a registered B Corp and ethically sources their kola fruit from smallholder farmers in Nigeria. Bissy cofounders Zach En’Wezoh and James Swinyard will direct their grant toward a new product line of single-origin kolanut powders and accelerate economic development for Bissy’s smallholder farmers through Fair Trade certifications. For more information about the company, visit bissyenergy.com.
22 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
BISSY CO-OWNERS Zach En’Wezoh (left) and James Swinyard.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BISSY ENERGY
Global Tea Initiative Presents 6th Annual Colloquium
T
he Global Tea Initiative at the University of California-Davis will present its sixth annual colloquium on January 21, 2021, with the theme “The Stories We Tell: Myths, Legends, and Anecdotes about Tea.” (If COVID-19 shelter-in-place directives are still in place, the event will be held online.)
The colloquium typically draws audiences up to 600 people, with scholars, students, industry experts, farmers, and aficionados from all over the world in attendance. The event includes networking opportunities between the scientific, academic, industry, and community members, and promises to provide a vibrant atmosphere for collaboration and learning across the disciplines.
GTI is seeking proposals for 30-minute presentations during the colloquium. Proposals can take any approach from the humanities and social sciences, as long as they address the theme, “The Stories We Tell: Myths, Legends, and Anecdotes about Tea.” The deadline to submit a proposal is Saturday, August 1, 2020. To submit a proposal and to learn more about the colloquium, visit globaltea.ucdavis.edu.
PHOTO BY LIZ99, GRAPHIC: GLOBALTEA.UCDAVIS.EDU
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 23
The Filter
Bean Voyage Launches Response to COVID-19
A
s COVID-19 continues to impact the coffee industry throughout the supply chain, many organizations have announced efforts to address the effects of the pandemic. Bean Voyage, an initiative devoted to empowering smallholder women coffee producers in Costa Rica, recently launched a new program, COVIR-20, in response to the challenges created by the virus. Short for “colaboración virtual,” COVIR-20 uses easy-access technology to connect with and train producers, beginning with more than 60 smallholder women in Costa Rica for the eightweek pilot program, which consisted of two four-week modules, Post-harvest Practices and Financial Literacy & Planning.
Diedrich Roasters Announces Expanded Headquarters in Idaho
L
eading coffee equipment manufacturer Diedrich Roasters recently unveiled its new facilities in Ponderay, Idaho. The 80,000-square-foot space significantly expands its manufacturing capabilities, facilities concept and design, and consulting services, consolidating operations and headquarters under one roof. The new plant also adds a Professional Educational Center and Roasting Lab, reaffirming Diedrich’s commitment to coffee education and training. “Expanding our footprint into our state-of-the-art facility represents not only Diedrich Roasters’ growth, but also our commitment to the coffee roasting community,” says CEO Karl Schmidt. “We’re proud to be in a position to invest back into the business to secure our leadership position and help ensure future growth as the leading manufacturer of U.S.-built roasting machines.”
After completing the pilot in June, the Bean Voyage team is revising their curriculum based on feedback and developing a more extensive curriculum for WhatsApp, covering topics that weren’t covered in the pilot phase, including gender, farming practices, production, and climate change. They will then start working with 10 youths to be facilitators of virtual trainings for communities of smallholder women producers, before launching the training to an additional 400 producers. Bean Voyage cofounder Sunghee Tark says they have received positive and helpful feedback from producers. “In the early stage of COVID-19, we had to seek a way to pivot quite quickly from in-person training to a virtual space, as we had planned to start our in-person training for 2020 in March,” she says. “Upon consideration of many other platforms designed for online courses, we learned that the barrier to access such platforms was too high for our partner producers who are mostly located in remote rural areas with spotty internet connection and pretty simple phones. WhatsApp has served us as a key communication tool for the past few years with our community partners, so we thought to give it a try as a platform to host our virtual trainings.” They adapted their learning materials planned for March through June to fit the WhatsApp platform. In order to minimize the participants’ phone storage capacity and make the course as interactive and engaging as possible, Tark says they have utilized voice notes, infographics, and even games to be played virtually. “It has been quite fascinating to learn how producers learn and interact with these materials,” she says. “Participants have shared that as they are given more time to digest the materials, and have a safe space online to ask questions, it’s been really beneficial for them.” Head to beanvoyage.com to learn more about the initiative.
24 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
BEAN VOYAGE PHOTOS BY ALEXA ROMANO
The Kore Directive Launches Instagram Campaign Addressing Racism in the Coffee Industry
L
ondon-based organization The Kore Directive has announced a new Instagram campaign, #coffeecantbecolourblind, to address racism in the United Kingdom’s coffee community. The campaign invites coffee professionals to share their stories using the hashtag in order to bring about more conversation and change within the industry. “Our aims in starting this hashtag are: to start a movement of accountability and change in
provide mutual aid and concern,” The Kore Directive states on their Instagram page. After putting a call out for stories, the organization shared its first installment of #coffeecantbecolourblind on June 15. Visit @TheKoreDirective on Instagram to keep up with the campaign and learn more about their mission.
the U.K., by empowering individuals to share their lived experiences of racism and discrimination; to support community members in calling companies and individuals out respectfully, and engaging in positive dialogue and change; to demonstrate the widespread nature of systemic racism in our industry; providing an online community supporting victims behind-the-scenes, filled with resources to effect change on the employee level, and connecting likeminded individuals who
GRAPHICS: INSTAGRAM @KOREDIRECTIVE
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 25
The Filter
Getchusomegear Raises Funds to Become Nonprofit
F LANISA WILLIAMS
Barista Life LA’s #BlackinBrew Campaign
L
ast month, Barista Life LA creator LaNisa Williams launched the #BlackinBrew Instagram campaign. Initially created to highlight Los Angeles-area baristas, Williams pivoted to take it “a step further” to feature Black people in the coffee industry as a whole. Since launching the campaign, Williams has interviewed Black baristas, café owners, communications managers, and more from California, Texas, South Carolina, and even the United Kingdom. With each Instagram post, followers gain a unique insight into the challenges these professionals are facing, their coffee career history, how they are adapting to the COVID-19 pandemic, fighting racial injustice, and what progress they hope to see within the industry. “People have been really receptive,” says Williams of #BlackinBrew. “I’ve definitely connected with some pretty awesome roasters, green sourcers, people around the world that I wouldn’t have ever known, but through this [they’re given] a platform and can share how they feel.”
or more than a year, North Carolina-based Getchusomegear has been providing free coffee gear and educational materials to help marginalized coffee professionals explore their craft. Since launching June 2019, the organization has redistributed over $5,000 worth of donated gear, shipping more than 70 boxes to baristas and other coffee professionals. In February, founder Chris McAuley created a GoFundMe to raise money to help Getchusomegear become a nonprofit, and in June—just in time to celebrate its one-year anniversary—the campaign raised more than its $3,500 goal. The funds will go towards: paying a lawyer to help guide the 501(c)(3) application process and advise on how to best set up and operate the organization; paying fees connected to filing for 501(c)(3) status; hiring an accountant to help set up finances and prepare for growth; finding a space for donated gear storage; and paying for staff, a website, events, merch, training, and more. Getchusomegear also recently unveiled an education department, fulfilling its long-term goal of offering its own resources to complement and enhance the boxes of gear. Coffee professionals Cydni Patterson and Erica Jackson have joined the team as educators. “We have always been committed to helping marginalized coffee professionals get where they want to be in coffee,” McAuley wrote on their Instagram page. “Thanks to our homies, we’ll be able to keep it up and go bigger.” Follow @getchusomegear on Instagram to stay connected.
Follow the #BlackinBrew campaign on the Barista Life LA Instagram page, and head to freshcup. com to read more of our interview with Williams.
26 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTO OF WILLIAMS: INSTAGRAM @ BARISTALIFELA, STICKERS: INSTAGRAM @GETCHUSOMEGEAR
European Tea Society Unveils New Name & Strategy
S
tarting July 1, the European Tea Society will be known as the European Speciality Tea Association, following a vote by the association’s members in May. The organization announced several reasonings behind the name change: “The word ‘association’ is an inclusive and contemporary word, one that aligns with the values of the organisation, which are totally inclusive; the word ‘association’ describes much more accurately what the organisation is, which is a members association; ‘Speciality Tea’ is very much at the heart of what the organisation does and believes in. It is enshrined in the association’s Charter and mission and is now appropriately reflected in the name.” While the logo and overall branding will remain unchanged, the association will move forward with significant changes coinciding with its new name. Its new three-year strategic plan aims to foster growth in memberships, build relationships with other tea associations, and lead the industry as “a modern, efficient, inclusive, ethical, professional, member facing, committee-driven and volunteer led membership association.” In order to facilitate membership growth, the association will hold a drive to reach new members throughout Europe, as well as introduce new membership categories, including one for producers in tea-growing countries and one for “tea baristas.” Once a country sees a significant number of members, the association will open a chapter to help members in that country network and organize events. European Speciality Tea Association will also launch a Tea Certification Programme, which will cover topics including Camellia sinensis, brewing skills, sensory skills, botanicals, tea barista skills, health, and agronomy. A standalone “Introduction to Tea” will be available soon, and the main program is anticipated to launch by early 2021. Visit ESTA’s new website at specialityteaeurope.com to learn more.
LOGO: EUROPEANTEASOCIETY.ORG
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 27
The Filter
Panama’s Finca Lérida Announces Strategic Partnership
F
inca Lérida, a specialty coffee-producing company in Boquete, Panama, recently announced a strategic partnership with Coastal Coffee Traders and Boot Coffee to distribute and promote its award-winning coffees available to global buyers. “Finca Lérida coffee means family, heritage, and the ongoing search for excellence that inspire this traditional farm on the outskirts of the Barú volcano in the exotic country of Panama,” says owner María Antonella Amoruso. “Blessed with the wind from both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, the flavor of a rich volcanic soil and the mist of a particular velvet-like rain called ‘bajareque,’ Finca Lérida coffee has been awarded numerous recognitions and prizes from world class experts throughout its 107-year history. We are delighted to announce that we have joined efforts with Coastal Coffee Traders and Boot Coffee to bring to you these outstandingly delicious and unique coffees.” Longtime industry professional Alan Nietlisbach started Coastal Coffee Traders LLC in 2020 as a brokerage and trading company focused on representing some of the finest estate coffees and cooperative farmer groups in the world. “Finca Lérida and María Amoruso have proven their commitment to the quality and the legacy of this farm and I am so excited to help promote this coffee again on the international stage as we continue our focus on supporting the production of quality coffees and the social infrastructures built around them,” says Nietlisbach.
28 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Food 4 Farmers Releases Annual Report
C
offee-farming families are facing an unprecedented triumvirate of challenges: the ongoing effects of climate change, stubbornly low prices for coffee, and now the effects of the novel coronavirus. In this difficult period, Food 4 Farmers has released its 2019 Annual Report highlighting how food security and diversification strategies are helping families weather the pandemic. “The future of coffee hinges on coffee-farming families being able to use their land as a critical resource to diversify into food production as well as coffee,” says Janice Nadworny, co-director of Food 4 Farmers. “When a crisis hits, families can better adapt to challenges if they’re able to rely on their farms as thriving local food and economic hubs while continuing to produce coffee.” Food 4 Farmers takes a long-term approach to help Latin American coffeeproducing communities diagnose their challenges, identify opportunities, develop strategies, and implement them. The organization currently works with six coffee cooperatives and associations representing 8,000 small-scale coffee-farming families in Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, and Colombia. This year, those farmers made tangible advances in building food security: in Nicaragua, families at SOPPEXCCA reduced the gap between net income earned from coffee and annual food costs by 40%, while producing healthy, organic food for their community; young people in Guatemala are finding new job opportunities through beekeeping where they now represent 39% of beekeepers at the Maya Ixil Cooperative; the beekeeping coffee farmers of CESMACH in Mexico saw their income increase by 41% from sales of honey and other bee products; 17 young promoters at COMEPCAFE in Colombia are helping 288 families improve health and nutrition, grow traditional crops, and revitalize lost food traditions; also in Colombia, Nuevo Futuro has successfully integrated food security into its mission and planning, with member-families and a local school now managing thriving food gardens. Food 4 Farmers’ 2019 report is a call to action. “If we are truly interested in a future that includes coffee,” says the organization, “we need to ensure that farming families earn or grow enough from their farms to put healthy food on the table every day.” Find the full report and more information at food4farmers.org.
FINCA LÉRIDA
PHOTO OF FINCA LÉRIDA: INSTAGRAM @FINCALERIDA, LOGO: FOOD4FARMERS.ORG
Update to U.S. Coffee Championships 2020–2021 Seasons
T
he United States Coffee Competitions have announced that all remaining events will be canceled until 2021. Although the 2020 season’s Barista and Brewers Cup finals were held in February, the Coffee in Good Spirits, Roasters, and Cup Tasters finals were meant to be held in April at the Specialty Coffee Expo in Portland, Oregon, which was canceled due to COVID-19. USCC is canceling the 2021 Preliminaries and Qualifiers; instead, the competitors who have already qualified for Coffee in Good Spirits, Roasters, and Cup Tasters will automatically qualify for the 2021 championships at the Specialty Coffee Expo in New Orleans. Additionally, the Barista and Brewers Cup champions can choose to defer their candidacy from the 2020 World Coffee Championships to 2021. “In considering our options for moving forward—both completing the 2020 season and starting the 2021 season—we took into primary account the health and safety of the coffee workers in our community,” says Nathanael May, U.S. competitions coordinator. “Convening competitors and judges for a large competition comes with significant risk. We want to also be sensitive to the employment situations and finances of the people we serve. “Returning to US competitions in 2021,” he adds, “we also want to recommit to a competition structure that is ever more diverse and inclusive—we reject racism, prejudice, and the marginalization of our Black colleagues. Our Competition Committees have committed to making competitions fair and equitable. We will spend time listening to and working with our community to actively evolve our coffee competitions in the diverse image of the industry they represent.” USCC plans to have actionable changes and steps outlined by October, with the commitment to implement those changes by April. The committee also aims to hold forum or virtual town halls, inviting dialogue between committee members and the industry at large. FC Visit uscoff eechampionships.org for further updates and information.
GRAPHIC: USCOFFEECHAMPIONSHIPS.ORG
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 29
IN HOUSE
How We
Weather the Storm By Michael Ryan
30 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
I
n so many ways, the pandemic and the succeeding panic caused by COVID-19 are unprecedented. We have seen the rise of social distancing and the closing of businesses—some for good. Furthermore, as always, crisis does not rest on all shoulders equally; those who were already disenfranchised and marginalized have been hit hardest. Whether we find ourselves one of the lucky few or part of the aching masses, the coronavirus has affected all our daily lives, potentially forever. The current reality notwithstanding, there is hope amid the suffering. Not to diminish the hardship being experienced by so many, crisis is nothing new to the human race. As Audre Lorde said, “We are powerful because we have survived.� Whether we think back to the Spanish flu pandemic or to the more recent 2008 recession, we have weathered more than a few storms. Time and again we hear tales of people who have leveraged crisis to learn and grow, of inspiring individuals who realized that how they handled hard times would define them forever. From those stories, five patterns emerge for how to survive, and even thrive, amid rough seas that are as timeless as they are timely. These patterns are general in nature, the hope being to help and encourage as many people as possible regardless of specific situation or social standing. We desperately need voices of hope in this season and hope, said Harvey Milk, will never be silent.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 31
In House: How We Weather the Storm
1. Manage Your Mindset Easier said than done, many people consider the thoughts that pass through their head and the emotions they experience to be completely outside their control. This idea of managing your mindset can seem unrealistic, impossible, and even inauthentic. Here is the rub: decades of research have proven what philosophy has been teaching for thousands of years—we have a choice in the matter. According to eminent traumainformed therapist and author Dr. Faith G. Harper, on a neurobiological level, emotions only last for 90 seconds. That is how long it takes for the cortisol and adrenaline to dissipate from our system so we can move on with our lives.
32 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
ing or, more affectionately, “sticky brain.” We replay the incident, remind ourselves of the anxiety-inducing news reel, and meditate on the madness around us without ever pausing to realize we have a choice in the matter. When we follow this path, wave after wave of chemicals secreted by our brains cascade through our bodies until we are completely exhausted, physically, mentally, and emotionally.
Tactic #1: Change Your State
Why, then, is our daily experience so far out of alignment with our brain physiology? Because we continue to fuel our emotions with our thoughts. Neuroscientists call this perseverat-
Changing your state is a simple practice that will help in learning to choose your mindset at any given time. If you are inside, go out. If you are standing, have a seat. If you have been sitting, go for a walk. Take a deep breath (or five) and feel the reset. Exploring a meditation practice can also pay significant dividends. Over 30 years of extensive research has
shown the effectiveness of mindfulness and meditation in improving overall health. For a primer, check out Dan Harris’ book 10% Happier and the Headspace app for your phone. [Take advantage of Headspace’s free subscription for unemployed workers during COVID-19 at headspace.com/ unemployed.]
ability to concentrate long enough to think critically about the information to which we are being exposed. To make matters worse, checking your phone or turning on the news first thing in the morning, when your brain waves are still in alpha state and therefore at their most sensitive and malleable, allows whatever we see or hear to mold our brain patterns for the rest of the day. During a time of crisis, the ability to selectively intake media becomes even more crucial. With media pundits promulgating half-baked theories, we need to preserve our ability to think critically and connect the dots for ourselves.
2. Manage Your Media Nearly 100 years ago, British author Patricia Wentworth wrote, “Too much information can be as disconcerting as too little.” We live in a day where so much content is being created, it fries our brain circuitry when we try to plug into it indiscriminately. Former CEO of Google Eric Schmidt observed that we create as much content every two days
as we did from the dawn of civilization up to 2003. This “always connected” culture leads to what researcher Linda Stone famously called “continuous partial attention”—we are losing the
Tactic #2: Find Balance Complete ignorance of what is happening in the world is not helpful or healthy. However, our world is so interconnected that putting our
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 33
In House: How We Weather the Storm proverbial head in the sand is not even possible anymore. Researchers suggest limiting media intake to specific times and from intentionally chosen sources. These sources should be chosen for their balance and content quality, not because they match your personal bias. People who have instituted intentional practices consistently report that they feel like they have more mental space to process the information they hear and read.
3. Focus Your Energy Every event, action, and crisis falls into one of two categories: things we can influence and things we cannot control. We can decide to turn off the news once we have gleaned the pertinent information, but we cannot control what the media produces. We can control our response, but not the reaction of others. We can influence our attitude while shopping at the store, but we cannot magically make toilet paper appear at our local market. It is natural to be concerned about things that affect us but have no direct influence over. This paradigm is powerful because it gives us a choice when it comes to where we spend our time and energy. Will we burn our reserves worrying about things over which we have no control? Or will we choose to direct our focus at things that are within our circle of influence?
Tactic #3: Differentiate & Act The simple process of placing each event into either the “can control” or “cannot control” category activates our prefrontal cortex, the part of the brain associated with executive function, emotional regulation, and creative problem-solving. When we challenge ourselves to only spend our time and energy on what we can
34 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
In House: How We Weather the Storm actually influence, we may just find we do not have the time or energy to worry about things we cannot control.
4. Plan Proactively Although many of us are familiar with the timeless adages about planning, not everyone thinks through what they might do in the case of a crisis beforehand. When the COVID-19 curve started to trend upward at an alarming rate, it became clear that many governments, businesses, and individuals had no plan for how they would weather a storm. It goes without saying that none could have predicted the coronavirus outbreak. However, if history has taught us anything,
it is that hard times will come, and we should be prepared for them. Thousands of businesses had no plan for any interruption in their cash flow; an economic downturn of any type would put them out of business. Unfortunately, the same is true for individuals. Research also shows that millions of people in the United States do not have an emergency plan in any form and do not have enough money saved to survive a crisis of any kind. Being able to save money and have a dedicated fund set aside is a privilege not available to all people. However, thinking through potential options for a future emergency that is certain to materialize is free to all.
Tactic #4: Create a Crisis Plan Few things are certain in life; that there will be hardship is one of them. Taking time to create a crisis plan, even if it is imperfect, is time well spent. Just having
36 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 Âť f r esh cup. com
a plan, any plan, is better than nothing. No amount of hustle or hard work can ever make up for the time that planning saves you. Additionally, it is much easier to manage your mindset when the next crisis comes—and it will—if you have a plan in place for your business.
5. Help One Another In times of upheaval, especially when the culprit is a global pandemic, it is easier than ever to experience a sense of helplessness. But it is important to channel that helplessness into helping other people. There will always be someone hit harder than us.
Since the pandemic hit, stories have abounded of people helping one another. From organizing and raising money to help feed the hungry to creating virtual tip jars to support hospitality industry workers during unemployment, creative solutions continue to inspire us. Remember that many people may be experiencing an even deeper level of pain and uncertainty than you. If you find yourself in a position of influence, use that to effect positive change and help people who may have been hit harder by this pandemic. For example, if you’re a coffee buyer, try to look for ways to create stability for producers you purchase from, such as cash advances and pre-shipment contracts. If you feel powerless, remember you are not. Tumultuous times will always find us; how we meet them will always define us. Once we have weathered this particular storm, and we will, we will be stronger. In times like these, it is important to manage your mindset and media, focus your energy, plan proactively, and help each other in order to change the world for the better. FC
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 37
THE WHOLE BEAN
The
Rise ofthe
Digital
Roaster By Levi Rogers
I KAWA’s Pro V3 Sample Roaster (top right), along with the newly-released IKAWA Pro app, allows you to roast your own profiles exactly the same way ever y time. The app also lets you share and receive profiles from other roasters.
38 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTO COURTESY OF IKAWA
I
n the last five years, we’ve seen a giant leap in one aspect of roasting technology: the rise of smaller, more compact digital roasters. The amount of digital roasters available—from small home machines for coffee enthusiasts, to professional sample roasters like the IKAWA, ROEST, and Stronghold, to larger electric drum roasters like Bellwether’s zero-emission 20-lb. digital drum roaster—shows just what a need these digital roasters have filled in the professional coffee roasting industry. Earlier this year, the giant multinational conglomerate Nestlé unveiled the “Roastelier,” a counter-top roaster designed for cafes and baristas. Nestlé calls it “a compact coffee-roasting solution that will allow baristas to unlock and simplify the art of roasting in the shop.” While home roasters like the Sonofresco, Behmor, Hottop, Fresh Roast, and other brands have been around for many years, the success of the IKAWA as the first digital micro-sample roaster, containing the ability to control graphs and profiles from your phone, seems to have opened the floodgates for this latest round of digitization. Bellwether recently raised $40 million in its Series B round of financing. Most of these roasters are designed for sample roasting, but they can also be used by home roasters and baristas simply looking to roast some coffee on their own.
How Digital Roasters Can Help Efficiency & Accessibility Like most technology, digitizing sample roasters was based on a need: creating consistent, hands-free roasting of multiple samples or batches. Whereas before a coffee roaster might have to stand over a manual drum and watch every step of development in the coffee, now, literally anyone can select a profile, push a button, and walk away. It really comes down to efficiency—the ability to sample roast and roast for production, at the same time.
PHOTO BY DAVID BOWDEN
Geoff Woodley, head of marketing for IKAWA, also brings up the topic of accessibility in sample roasting. “It was a major gap in the sample roasting world for people to know what a good sample roast was and how to achieve it,” he says. “We encountered a lot of producers who thought they couldn’t roast. The IKAWA makes it really concise and really simple.” Of course, other larger commercial roasters, such as the Loring, have been automated and digital for a few years, but not in any way that was accessible to non-professional roasters. These new roasters are not just for “professional” roasters anymore; both producers and consumers can now roast with ease.
COM PACT DI GI TAL R OASTER S like IKAWA’s model make it easier for producers to roast and drink their own coffee.
It’s all about time and manual labor, after all. You can roast just as fast with traditional roasters, but roasting multiple samples manually requires a lot of monotonous hands-on time—time that could be better spent in more productive and engaging ways. But that’s not the only reason for the creation of these machines. The founder of IKAWA, Andrew Stordy, an engineer and industrial designer, was living in coffee-producing countries, including Burundi (IKAWA is from the word for “coffee” in Kirundi,
the official language of Burundi), when he noticed a huge discrepancy between producers and consumers—many producers were not able to drink their own coffee. These simple, compact digital roasters make it easier for producers to roast and drink their own coffee.
Not Just Air Roasters Most, but not all, of these new digital roasters are “air” or “fluid bed” roasters, unlike the more traditional “drum” roasters. Some companies, however, like Aillio and ROEST, are applying the digital automated technology to both types of roasters. Rob Hoos, Portland, Oregon-based author, roaster, and director of coffee at Nossa Familia, says they roast on a combination of sample roasting machines: two IKAWAs (digital fluid bed), an Ambex 1 Kilo (manual drum), and a U.S. Roaster Corp (manual drum). He also teaches a whole SCA sample roast course using a home roaster, the Aillio Bullet R2 1 kilo (digital drum). Of the rise in digital roasting, he believes that it could be due to, in part, a dislike in the process of sample roasting. Norway-based ROEST is a digital sample roaster that combines the best of both roasting worlds: small digital roaster and a conventional drum. “When we started, drum roasters were the baseline. It was durable and manual,” says CEO and cofounder Trond Simonsen. “Consistency was, however, a problem. After IKAWA managed to open up the market for digitalization, everything has changed. Now we are first asked if we are digital, then if you can roast manual. A lot of our customers want the best from both worlds—and that’s been a key principle in our development. But strictly sample roasting is, for most people we talk to, all about getting the task done.” “We’re teaching our roaster to listen for the sound of first crack to take consistency and automation to the next level,” adds Trond’s brother, Sverre Simonsen, the engineer and cofounder of ROEST.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 39
The Whole Bean: The Rise of the Digital Roaster
R OEST: Tim Wendelboe (pictured) has been using ROEST for quality control routines, sample roasting for buying, and roasting classes for the past year. He has helped with product feedback since ROEST’s inception in 2013.
40 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROEST
The Simonsen brothers say their machine is extremely flexible, able to operate with full autonomy, half, or manual, and that different companies employ its use differently. “ROEST is designed not only to complement a traditional drum roaster, but to replace it,” says Trond Simonsen.
The Future of Traditional Roasters The question lingers: Will air roasting replace drum roasting as the method of choice for sample roasting? “I think it can,” says Marcus Young of Boot Coffee. “With more and more roasters using IKAWA sample roasters or Stronghold roasters, and even production roasting with Loring Roasters with their highly convective heat, fluid bed may be the way to go.” He also notes how these roasters have improved control over heat and airflow compared to traditional sample roasters.
MARCUS YOUNG is campus director and senior consultant of business development at Boot Coffee.
“With the IKAWA, I can send a profile to the roaster and have a lab assistant roasting samples with about ten minutes of training,” says Young. “I’ve also found the ability to develop and share profiles on fluid bed machines to be appreciated by my clients who operate roasting companies.”
BELLWETHER ROASTERS produce zero emissions thanks to a reliance on electricity (no gas) and a unique built-in air cleaning system.
YIMARA MARTINEZ AGUDELO is the quality control specialist at Sustainable Harvest and roasts on IKAWA and Probat roasters.
But Phil Beattie of Dillanos disagrees somewhat. “I do not think that air roasting will replace drum sample roasters,” he says. “Air roasting imparts a very specific development of flavor in a way that favors certain core profiles. My experience is that air roasting requires additional roast variance to bring out the flavors of natural and honey processed coffees. This required variance for air roasting introduces new variables that are not necessarily present in drum roasting, and the goal of sample roasting is to limit variables and create uniformity of sample assessment worldwide.” Yimara Martinez Agudelo, the quality control specialist at Sustainable Harvest, says that, in her opinion, it is possible to achieve a great fragrance development with air roasters—perhaps there just needs to be a small variation on how the profile is used. At Sustainable Harvest, where Agudelo roasts on two IKAWAs and a Probat, she has developed a profile similar to that of a drum roaster by cupping two roasts (one from the drum roaster and one from the IKAWA) side by side, in order to achieve the
same expression of flavor and smell for quality control purposes. Even if drum roasters remain the choice of importers and large companies who need to crank through a lot of samples at once (or transfer their profiles from sample to production), smaller digital roasters seem to be perfect for small- to medium-sized roasting companies for both the price and quality. That doesn’t mean there aren’t benefits of learning how to manually roast: what better way to get a feel for roasting coffee than the full hands-on approach? “There are certain things I appreciate about manual roasting that are not easy to replace,” says Rob Hoos. “Like if you’re the same person doing the sample roasting and the production roasting you get a better feel for the coffee.” With that in mind, it’s still too early to tell whether these digital machines will one day take over coffee roasting completely, but the future of coffee roasting in general is headed in this technical direction—a digital, autonomous frontier. As Trond Simonsen of ROEST says, “It’s about time.” The machines are here to stay. FC
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT): COURTESY OF MARCUS YOUNG/BOOT COFFEE, INSTAGRAM @BELLWETHERCOFFEE, PHOTO COURTESY OF SUSTAINABLE HARVEST
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 41
DO YOU KNOW?
Jennifer
“Vern”
WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH
By Caitlin Carter
Long
42 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTO COURTESY OF WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH
T
his June celebrated the one-year anniversary of Jennifer “Vern” Long stepping into the role of CEO of World Coffee Research. In that time, she has led the team to build a refreshed five-year research strategy, which places new emphasis on bolstering origin diversity, while continuing to build upon the pro-
grams, networks, and trials WCR has undertaken in its first eight years. A plant breeder by training, Long came to WCR with more than two decades of experience in international agricultural research with a focus on smallholders, including serving as director of the Office of Agricultural Research & Policy at the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID).
“She is deeply knowledgeable and passionate about international agricultural research, is a natural leader and entrepreneurial thinker, and is an experienced organization builder,” said WCR founder and outgoing CEO Tim Schilling upon announcing her hiring. “The coffee world doesn’t know her yet, but it will.” Read on to get to know Vern Long. This interview has been edited for length and clarity. Fresh Cup: Let’s first star t w ith your “ origin stor y ” —I’ v e read that your plant geneticist career star ted on a road trip as a teenager, reading an issue of National Geographic… Ver n Long: My affection for genetic diversity in agriculture definitely started with that road trip….I spent a tremendous amount of time reading on that very, very long and winding path from the East Coast to the West Coast. The article was about the heroic acts of gene bank curators around the world, conserving unique plants under harrowing conditions all for the future of food security—it was both intellectually fascinating and deeply meaningful. I knew then I wanted to be a part of this. The thing that is really striking… is that the work they were reporting in that magazine had been initiated in the ‘70s and ‘80s, the period when the average citizen really started to understand the importance of genetic diversity. As a global community, we are so thankful they did that, because now those materials are preserved for many crops. That’s what’s tremendously important in coffee right now, is that we haven’t done enough of what’s required to conserve the genetic diversity that underpins the future of coffee agriculture. What we need to do as a community is make sure that we take steps to conserve and preserve that material, and then in 20 years, when some kid is reading a new edition of National Geographic about heroic gene banks curators and how genetic diversity is
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 43
Do You Know? Jennifer “ Vern” Long supported, while coffee faces down the challenges of climate change, that that’s done. Personally, I was really clueless as a teenager about all these things, but it really captured my attention, the amazing diversity in crops and what you can do with it. And so that led to a lot of decisions around pursuing first botany then research in tropical agriculture. FC: What can w e ex pect to see from WCR mov ing for w ard under your leadership? What goals do you hav e as CEO? VL: To date, we have eight years of programs that are finally yielding the first fruits, as it were, that we are collecting data on the yield of new varieties, F1 hybrids. And those programs will continue to generate outputs and information and knowledge that will be important to the coffee sector at large. Right now, we are in deep ‘strategy mode.’ We are developing an organizational strategy that will carry us forward for the next five years, and will be launching that in July of 2020. We just completed a wide-ranging global consultation of stakeholders, including everyone from farmers to national governments, to roasters, retailers, and suppliers, to really listen to what the community feels are the key constraints to coffee production and their priorities. And specifically, what is the R&D agenda that will contribute to coffee sustainability in the 21st century. We’ve listened very carefully to the perspectives of the broader community, and are tailoring our strategy to that. What is crystal clear is the importance to the coffee industry of origin diversity. It contributes to the availability of unique flavors that roasters rely on and consumers want, it helps mitigate supply chain risk in the face of climate change or—as we are experiencing now—a global pandemic, and when you have many countries with flourishing coffee sectors, you are also distributing the economic benefits of coffee more widely among farmers globally. Key objectives
44 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
are to improve the profitability of climate-resilient coffee production, to increase quality, and to mitigate supply chain risk, all of which a smart R&D agenda can achieve. FC: What are the ov erarching challenges that agriculture faces in general, v ersus what distinctly aff ects the coff ee industr y ? VL: Coffee is a tremendously valuable business globally, and yet it rests on the back of innovation that is predominantly generated by national programs or national researchers in low- and middle-income countries. You have a significant asymmetry between those who want to buy coffee and consume
Exacerbating this challenge is climate change. All of the knowledge that farmers have accumulated to help them make decisions about their farms— through experience and through social networks and sources of information in their local communities—is assuming certain things stay predictable. And the challenge of climate change is that we are entering a time of tremendous unpredictability. Farmers depend on innovations, like how many inches between your plants are optimal given the rain we expect to get.…[But] because rainfall patterns are changing dramatically, you might do a different kind of management approach, or you might use a different variety that does well in this new
WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH CREW
it in upper middle-income and highincome countries, and the fact that innovations for farmers are underfunded. But those farm-level innovations are the backbone for the success of every coffee business in the world—if farmers can’t succeed, no one can. All of agriculture is essentially running to stand still—there’s always a new pest, a new disease, emerging constraints to production that make it more challenging….Farmers are constantly responding to the dynamic environment in which they operate and trying to make decisions with what information they have. If they are starved of innovations to meet these challenges as they arise, they will fall further and further behind.
highly variable environment. But you’re depending on your national government to generate those research outputs—the varieties, the technologies, the information on how to plant or manage your coffee differently now. The resources available to those national programs is really thin, and yet this entire global industry [is] relying on this very starved resource environment for those innovations. This asymmetry is the real challenge we face in coffee. In other crops, they have the same challenge: there are under-resourced researchers focused on food security crops in those countries. The distinction is that national governments have a high incentive to spend more money
PHOTOS COURTESY OF WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH
on research for food crops because if they don’t, people go hungry and there are riots in the streets. The exciting thing is that you can build from the same methods and tools that researchers have developed for better-funded crops, like corn and soybeans, on coffee—we don’t have to invent our own tools. So if a government—for example, Ethiopia or Uganda—is spending money to upgrade its research capacity in some other crops because of their significance to food security, there’s no reason that we can’t work to amplify those investments to advance coffee research in key countries. And going a step further, as farmers seek to reduce their risk from production of a single crop, there is opportunity to partner with researchers in other crops to optimize production systems with farmers to increase the diversity of crops in the field—food crops, spices, and coffee—that can help generate more consistent revenue for farmers while also ensuring complementarity of innovations that work for farmers in the field. FC: Why is it impor tant f or today ’s caf é ow ner s and cof f ee consumer s to pay attent ion to the w ork and r esear ch being done at the pr oducing lev el? VL: People care about where their coffee comes from. There’s a tremendous interest among consumers to understand where their food comes from, where their coffee comes from, what were the conditions of its production, were people exploited in its production. There’s a real commitment and concern about the welfare of the families and communities that produce the coffee that we drink. The coffee we have today, and the conditions under which it is produced, are a result of the research of the past. The coffee we drink tomorrow—and the conditions of its production—will be a result of the research we do today. What farmers do and how they do it is
ADDIS ABABA, ETHIOPIA
a function of what’s available to them. If a farmer has innovations that enable them to be more efficient with their use of water or efficient with their use of fertilizer or enable them to avoid using pesticides, they will. That’s what science does, it gives farmers choice. Agricultural R&D makes it possible for farmers to do things because the innovations are there for them. The signals that consumers send about their priorities matter, too. We make choices as consumers about the world we want to live in, and we communicate that through the products that we buy and consume. That helps orient the research and development agenda to respond to those priorities. The technology is there; how we use it and when we use it is a question of what the demand is in the market. [Additionally,] connectivity with origin countries is increasing. Coffee drinkers are seeing the stories of the farmer who’s produced that coffee, and that the coffee didn’t just come from a wild tree in the forest—somebody planted that tree intentionally and took care of it. And the more consumers can understand where their food comes from, the more we can be educated about informing how our food is going to come to us in the future.
FC: What has been your fav orite thing about coff ee since you’ v e stepped into this role? VL: I think what’s been most exciting about joining WCR is our global footprint of people. At any moment, on WhatsApp, on my phone, I can ping Nuzul in Indonesia or Donnell in the Philippines, Jesslin in Nicaragua or Maureen in Uganda, and get an instant answer to my question about coffee in their country. We are such a tight team and yet we’re all over the world and it’s really exciting to be part of an organization that has such a strong and warm community. Our team is tremendously passionate about coffee, and it’s infectious enthusiasm. In agriculture generally, people are deeply committed to the work— folks are feeding the world after all. But in coffee, it goes a step further— people are so personally invested and enthusiastic about it because coffee is truly a part of people’s life socially and culturally, beyond the field. It’s a social drink, it brings communities together. I mean, you drink it with friends, it creates a warmth around it— that’s been really, really wonderful. FC: Any final thoughts for our readers? VL: Climate change is the defining issue of our time—especially for agriculture. We do need to change the innovations and tools that farmers have—we can’t continue business as usual. There needs to be a commitment to research, to develop innovations that help farmers thrive despite this challenging environment. R&D is a part of the solution, but it’s not the total solution. It’s critical that we work together to figure out other interventions and other ways of tackling some of these big challenges based in coffee. But R&D has a place in that, and we really want to make sure that we’re being held accountable to the community to do the right thing. FC Learn more about the work World Coffee Research is doing at worldcoffeeresearch.org.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 45
CAFÉ CROSSROADS
GHOST TOWN
Coffee Roasters
COMMUNITY-DRIVEN COFFEE
, n a m B o z e t an a Mo n
By Maria Anderson
46 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTO COURTESY OF GHOST TOWN COFFEE ROASTERS
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 47
Café Crossroads: Ghost Town Coffee Roasters
I
f you’re driving through northeast Bozeman, Montana, and into the Bridger Range for a hike, bike, or trail run, you can often smell Ghost Town Coffee Roasters as you drive past. In the summer months, this specialty coffee and roasting company raises their garage-style door, giving the high-ceilinged building even more of an open-air feel. It’s a popular place for hikers and mountain bikers to stop on their way to the mountains in the summer to talk trail conditions or bear sightings. Others come by Ghost Town before work for coffee and a bite with friends, or to tap away at laptops on the long communal table, or to read in the corner nook. Owner Chad Kimm loves the social aspect of coffee. “More people gather over coffee than any other beverage,” he says. “I love coffee shops where the barista gets to know customers by name and can chat while making their drink.”
An Open Experience Ghost Town roasts high-quality, sustainable coffee from around the world,
48 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
which they serve at their locations and distribute wholesale, primarily in Montana. Selling to roughly 100 accounts and coffee shops, office buildings, and retail clients, they also deal heavily in equipment sales, service, and consultations, as well as certified barista training. And their lab doubles as a kitchen, where they make their own baked goods, breakfast burritos, sandwiches, and salads. The new head roaster, Julianna Jack, is a Minnesota native who says she went down the rabbit hole with craft
beverages: she cut her teeth in a craft beer taproom just outside of Sacramento, roasting coffee on the side; after, she worked in a winery. “But out of the three, my brain kept returning to coffee,” she says. Jack was drawn to Ghost Town for how its flagship building’s design (Ghost Town has one other location in Bozeman) invites clients into the roasting experience: the island-style café allows customers to see the coffee preparation from every angle, while a quarter wall separates the roasting
PHOTOS COURTESY OF GHOST TOWN COFFEE ROASTERS
GHOST TOWN Staff Picks CONGO BOZA , from the Rebuild Women’s Hope cooperative along the shores of the coff ee-producing region of Lake Kivu, Congo. The majority of producers in this region are women, and the cooperative believes that “ building the hope of women is building the hope of an entire nation.”
area, where customers can see, hear, and smell Jack at work. “Right when you walk in, it’s a very open environment,” she says. “So many people never see a roaster roasting. Here, people are a part of the experience.”
Craft Coffee in the Paradise Valley Kimm grew up camping and exploring ghost towns near his hometown of Churchill, Montana, and throughout the state—memories which inspired the name of his business. After working at Costco, REI, and various bike shops in Seattle and Bozeman, Kimm decided to go into the coffee business. At that point, roasters hadn’t caught up to specialty coffee in Montana. “I’m certainly not here to take credit for bringing third-wave coffee to Montana,” he says, “but we were one of the first roasters in the Bozeman area to embrace craft coffee. Nobody in Bozeman really did that at that point.” He set out with the goal to appeal to a wide demographic of Bozemanarea coffee drinkers, while maintaining Ghost Town’s integrity and quality. The café is now in its 14th year in business. An avid biker, Kimm sometimes dreams about having a collaborative bike and coffee shop at some point, but that specific opportunity hasn’t come up just yet.
Elevation: 6,562 ft Process: Washed Varietal: Bourbon Tasting Notes: Macadamia nuts, pipe tobacco, plantain, cedar
EL SALVADOR EL DURAZNO , from their friends at Cuatro M in El Salvador. El Durazno, which means “ the peach,” comes from an outstanding micro lot. Sweet, nutty, and delicious. Variety: Red Bourbon Process: fully washed, sun dried Elevation: 3,770 ft Tasting Notes: Cocoa Pebbles, ginger, toff ee
BOURBON BARREL , made in collaboration with Willie’s Distillery in nearby Ennis, Montana. This coff ee imparts the distinct flavors in white oak barrels that were previously used to age bourbon, while maintaining the characteristics of the coff ee. A pleasant coff ee drinking experience with added complexity. “ The extra bourbon note on top of a good medium-to-dark roast coff ee is delicious. This is one of my favorites,” says Julianna Jack.
Ghost Town has a virtual tip jar on their website to help baristas during this time. Donate at ghosttow ncoff ee.com/collections/specialty drink-menu if you’re so inclined, or to your local baristas.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 49
Café Crossroads: Ghost Town Coffee Roasters
“Imagine,” he says, “an excellent mechanic tuning your bike while you sip on the best cappuccino of your life.”
Sustainability For Kimm, who grew up immersed in agriculture and farming, sustainability is key. “I love seeing how coffee farming is done, compared to grain and potatoes,” he says. “We have similar struggles and concerns.” Now, when he buys coffee, he researches the farm as much as possible to make sure that the owners are modeling responsible stewardship. Ghost Town, like most roasters, works through an importer, who hosts trips to the farms and keeps people invested in working directly with these places. Kimm’s last trip was to Honduras. “We continue to work with farmers directly whom we visited at this co-op there,” he says. “We can tell the story behind the farm, which is useful for marketing—‘I know Emilio in El Salvador and I get this great coffee, and also we know we’re doing our best to support these coffee farmers as well.’”
50 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
“Ghost Town is really aware of the global impact of coffee,” adds Jack. “It’s neat to see that level of involvement— they’re very aware and intentional with their coffee sourcing.” Kimm buys 160,000–170,000 pounds of beans annually for Ghost Town.
“We have to be diligent in watching our bottom line, same as any roaster,” he says. “With COVID-19, we’re having to scramble to find certain varieties we’ve been comfortably buying for years from different co-ops.” Big companies are buying them up, providing
Kimm with an extra challenge as he prepares for the coming year.
Community Service Ghost Town also strives to give back to the Bozeman area, through community roasts. These benefit places like the Gallatin Valley Land Trust, the Montana chapter of the Alzheimer’s Association (Ghost Town was the first company in Montana to become an official business partner with the Alzheimer’s Association) and local schools, including raising around $30,000 for a middle school’s music department. Coffee is one of the most-traded commodities in the world. Jack believes that if you can help bring awareness to sustainable coffee production processes, you can change the world. “Coffee is a daily ritual so many of us take part in, whether alone or at a café,” she says. “It’s this beautiful relationship that still has so much mystery around it.” Jack is looking forward to helping more people to learn and understand the magnitude of this industry, and to be more cognizant consumers. FC
PHOTOS COURTESY OF GHOST TOWN COFFEE ROASTERS
FOUNDRY PROVISIONS in Indianapolis serves up coffee, breakfast, and lunch offerings with an outdoor patio welcoming guests who practice social distancing.
52 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PHOTO COURTESY OF FOUNDRY PROVISIONS
Cafés adapted overnight in response to international pandemic
T
his piece was originally intended to provide inspiration for sprucing up your shop’s outdoor space for when the days get warmer and longer. What we didn’t anticipate was an international pandemic that would turn the industry on its head in a matter of days. Some cafés have stayed closed since the beginning. Some adapted to the variety of health guidelines quickly. Some applied for the Payment Protection Program before reopening their doors with limited hours. While states are beginning to reopen and restrictions are easing up, many metropolitan areas are slowly doing the same, despite the growing number of cases continuing to be reported throughout the United States. And as COVID-19 does not have a vaccine or cure as of this publication, café owners are addressing a possible second wave of cases even after the wave the countr y is currently in. One thing is for certain: these cafés, along with many others, demonstrate one of our industr y’s greatest strengths—that we can adapt even when it seems like there are no solid answers.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 53
Creating COVID-Safe Spaces
THE PATIO at Foundry Provisions.
Adapting Quickly Cafés found ways to acclimate to closures and restrictions by reshaping their services almost overnight. Foundry Provisions in Indianapolis, Indiana, wasn’t an exception. Located a block away from an art center and not far from a high school, this café, with its locally sourced coffee and food menu, was the spot to grab a cup of coffee and chat with friends. As mid-March rolled around, Indiana initiated a stay-at-home order along with other states. Foundry closed about a week after nearby schools shut down. “We paid attention to what [Governor Eric Holcomb] was asking us to do,” says manager Kimmie Burton. “He said unless you are an essential business, you need to cease operations. I perceived that we weren’t essential, but then I saw other shops were making a go of it....We found out we got a PPP loan early April and reopened with online ordering only and curbside pickup to where we would bring the drink to you.”
54 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Burton says she loves the way the space is operating now after establishing an online ordering system with Square.
Ye s ! WE ARE
OPEN What Coffee Shops are Open in Your Area? Check out htt ps: //cof f eeisopen. com/
“Having to pivot due to COVID, and we didn’t have an online ordering system at the time before this all started, spurred us to get online ordering going,” she says. “Square made it easy to start one through them.” In May, Square released a report in partnership with the Specialty Coffee
Association analyzing payment trends during COVID-19. One finding showed combined sales for curbside and/or pickup orders increased 5,380% for surveyed businesses. For Vesta Coffee Roasters in Las Vegas, online sales became its concentration after closing temporarily at the start of shutdowns. Not only does it sell its own coffee, but its full menu takeout is available on Postmates and Vesta Coffee Roasters’ app. Located in the city’s popular Arts District, Vesta began by sectioning off a third of the store to use less space, and custom printing vinyl for the floor to encourage social distancing. “With Nevada, there really weren’t any concrete guidelines for us, we really had to go about it on our own,” says founder Jerad Jay. “Being at home for a bit, we thought about processes for our staff to create a plan to reopen that would work for us. I thought it would take a week to reopen for to-go and pickup, but it actually took about three days.”
PHOTO COURTESY OF FOUNDRY PROVISIONS
K ER S at FL O O R M AR La s Vega s. Roaste rs in ee ff Co a Ve st
Due to the desert’s climate, Vesta was already envisioning and prepping how to allow people to sit indoors to keep cool, says Jay. “Right now, it feels like a ‘choose your own adventure’ service,” he says. Vesta also created a QR code for people outside the store to scan and order a coffee if they are passing by. “Not having interaction with the public is the hardest part,” says Jay. “I don’t think we will be where we were before this, but we know we can adapt and take
PHOTO COURTESY OF VESTA COFFEE ROASTERS
this slow. We want to get people back in there, but how can we do that safely?”
Safety First Even though prolonged person-toperson interactions and group meetups are down to a minimum, the breadth of customers that usually attend each shop are growing. Fairlane in Portland, Oregon’s Sellwood neighborhood is currently open for to-go, delivery, and pickup.
Its owners, husband-and-wife team Alexander and Alex Assaf, designed a strategy that considered the security and health needs of their employees and customers simultaneously as they saw an increase of customers and sales. Alex Assaf is a registered nurse by trade; her time in the medical field inspired and informed her to implement a plan to limit ways customers and employees can interact. “It was really easy to see where there are potential transmission points, like at our register or handling cash back and forth and staff touching their face,” she says. “With my RN background, I was able to reinforce with folks before guidelines came out. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is a great resource, but it is also about taking a step back and thinking like a health professional, ‘Where is someone touching something that can have contact with someone else’s face, eyes, and mouth?’” Fairlane held three emergency meetings with its staff addressing COVID-19 measures as Portland went into shutdown, and came out with several action items to create a safe space, says Alexander. “We immediately sealed off entry and exit to our facility,” he says. Fairlane’s entrance is now a walk-up window, so only staff can be inside the space and customers order on the other side of plexiglass. “As folks queue up for coffee, we are fortunate to have patio space with our layout, but our number one concern was rolling our cart up to the front door so people could see us if they were walking up and down the sidewalks. We have been able to pick up new customers and our staff can engage with them in a friendly, polite way.” The Assafs set up a guide for Fairlane employees to refer to regarding sanitization guidelines and social distancing. “Every time someone touches anything, we wipe it down,” says Alexander. “We were concerned about not being able to provide dining service, but ultimately the Fairlane experience is one of being safe. One of feeling that
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 55
Creating COVID-Safe Spaces you can come and have a regular routine with us and not have your health at risk as a result. “We found that, at the peak, we had about a fifty percent-increase in our customer base, and that may be because we were one of few shops open, but now we still have an increase of people coming here,” he adds. “We see that in Portland, there will be some easing and reopening, but we still do not feel comfortable inviting people back in the shop. It is too much of a safety risk for our staff.”
FAIRLANE is able to serve guests thanks to a plexiglass barrier.
Limiting Contact Tips • Pr efill condiment s and add st raw s ahead of t ime f or customer s • Pr ov ide hand sanit izer • Allow r est r oom use by r equest • Ask employ ee to fill out cr edit car d inf or mat ion during pay ment s to limit use of cr edit car d machine • Install plex iglass bet w een employ ees and customer s • Encourage mask s and disposable glov e use
6 FT.
Starting out with a bar cart converted into a pay station, Fairlane made a more permanent solution with plywood and plexiglass, so everything from pastries to retail is showcased at the front. A place for customers to sit outside in the near future is possible, but Fairlane wants to ease into changing its set-up. “We have been able to adapt quickly, and we are really fortunate,” says Alexander. “At the end of the day, it is about keeping people safe and our baristas employed.”
56 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Designing for a Second Wave Jane Kim is a registered architect and LEED Accredited Professional. She owns a small practice, Jane Kim Design, in New York City with two other employees. They have renovated about 10 coffee shops, mainly in Manhattan and Brooklyn. Kim recently released online and on social media “Reopening Specialty Coffee: New Practices after COVID-19,” a guide she created to spark a conversation on how coffee shops, both in New York and nationally, can reshape their
spaces with what is called a “minimal contact strategy.” “I was trying to find a way to give back to the community,” says Kim. “I reached out to former clients of mine... just to see if they wanted help and think about how they would reopen their shops. From my research, I realized there wasn’t much information from the government. It didn’t seem like there were a lot of shop owners talking about how they were handling protecting their employees and making safe spaces for their customers.”
PHOTO COURTESY OF FAIRLANE
Kim read about how the owners of Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters in San Francisco, Nick Cho and Trish Rothgeb, modified Wrecking Ball as COVID-19 shut down the city. Cho went on to share his limited opening plan in an article he wrote for Medium, an online publishing platform, stating that almost overnight, Wrecking Ball turned into a walkup window café. Cho and Rothgeb’s cafés limited contact between server and customer by customizing drinks ahead of time, with the server prefilling drinks with sugar, milk, and/or a straw upon customers’ request. Customers were encouraged to pay with cards instead of cash, with Wrecking Ball supplying Post-it Notesized wax paper for customers to pick up and use to cover the POS system. Kim’s design shows a graphic on how it can look like at a business’s door opening, similar to Wrecking Ball. “We thought, ‘How could we help add to this conversation?’ and that was to create a graphic way of understanding the different techniques of protecting people,” says Kim. “I wanted to get all this information in one place that people could find.” The design is available to view for free online, and depicts two strategies: “door service” and “limited service.” Door service expresses minimal contact between the server and customer, including reducing air flow with a plexiglass barrier and limited opportunities for customers to touch items in the shop. “We talk about [plexiglass] because you can have the clearest communication between people and it is the easiest to keep clean,” says Kim. “You can block the whole door opening so there is no air passing through except a gap down below for pass thru. It also creates visual connection and space. “I think in New York, people are being extra careful just because of how bad the infections have been here,” she adds. “So it seems like most shops want to keep customers outside of the summer, and use a plexiglass barrier at the door, with employees inside and customers outside. Nothing crosses
ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF JANE KIM DESIGN
Jane Kim’s Guide to Door Service Design 1. Spat ial Separat ion: Use plex ig lass bar rier s, r educe contact point s by pr epping ahead 2. Sanit izing: Regularly clean ar eas that interact w ith customer s 3. Signage: Cr eate clear, lar ge messages f or customer ease 4. Sidew alk Traf fic: Look into cit y ’s policies on sidew alk space, consider social distancing seat ing opt ions
Find Jane Kim’s design plan at janek imdesign. com/#/r eopening-specialt y -cof f ee.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 57
Creating COVID-Safe Spaces
TO-GO ORDERS in eco-friendly containers at Fairlane.
that but the drink. We try to follow what people understand are the best practices and separate the air from people to prevent infection from spreading.”
Disinfecting tips: htt ps: //w w w. cdc. gov /cor onav ir us/ 2019-ncov /communit y /or ganizat ions/ cleaning-disinf ect ion. ht ml
The second strategy, limited service, outlines how cafés can return to operate within their spaces. In the design, customers would be able to be inside the store three at a time, but there would be a clear separation between the “employee zone” and the “customer zone.” The employee zone would be modified for six feet of distancing between servers, or encouraging on server on per shift.
58 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
“We’re trying to work with coffee shop owners to think about a phase two,” says Kim. “Here, people could still come into shops and still be safe with social distancing and thinking about spacing out workers. This also would prevent overlaps of circulation paths. With the colder weather, there needs to be a second step of bringing people into the shops more...This [design] is going to continue to evolve.”
Stay—For A While While increased to-go orders are taking off for many shops, semipermanent outdoor spaces promoting safe social distancing are also popping up as the alternative to allowing guests indoors. Foundry’s patio setup includes tables spaced six feet apart and limits the amount of people that can sit at each one. Indianapolis made special arrangements for restaurants that didn’t originally have patios to bump out their spaces into sidewalks, says Burton. But as everchanging guidelines say to limit the number of customers, Burton says one concern is how businesses can
sustain operating at a percentage of their usual capacities. “We are asking, ‘Is this feasible?’ she says. “We’ve been doing enough online and with carry out, that the patio and outdoor space is just kind of offering a place to sit down. For other places, they’re having to decide if it is worth it.” Wiping down tables in between guests’ visits, placing umbrellas on the table, and giving access to hand sanitizer outside is helping Foundry stay safe while offering more, says Burton. While being in the restaurant industry helps her think in terms of safety and sanitization, says Burton, shebelieves COVID-19 is the time to revisit guidelines and protocols around greater public health. “I think people are feeling similarly [in the business community],” she says. “There is a lot of information being thrown at us as business owners, and it can feel daunting to feel like you can screw up. You are putting someone’s life potentially at risk if you don’t do something right. But it is also a kick in the pants to think safer and smarter, and encourage that behavior in your customers.” FC
PHOTO COURTESY OF FAIRLANE
AEROPRESS GO heard the call.
60 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
I
t’s been almost a month since all 50 states have begun to reopen, in some way. While protocols remain inconsistent across the board, what has been consistent is research showing that going outside is not only good for our physical and mental wellbeing, but the risk of transmission is decreased outdoors.
of coffee similar to what they might find in any third-wave specialty café. “They’re so much more knowledgeable on quality coffee and available brewing techniques,” says Jess Nepstad, CEO and founder of Montana-based Planetary Design, which manufactures French presses and drinkware specifically geared for travel and the outdoors. “Today’s consumers versus
eight products, including its latest release, the OVRLNDR. “The OVRLNDR is a combination of everything we’ve learned over 15 years of making French presses,” says Nepstad. “Easy to brew, easy to clean, portable, pourable.” The OVRLNDR’s biggest feature is the patented removable base, which allows for easy cleaning while on the road
THE OVRLNDR is a double-walled and stainless steel French press.
Across the country, people are packing up their gear and heading to parks, trails, and campgrounds to take advantage of the warmer weather (and more space to practice social distancing). But how can today’s outdoor enthusiasts enjoy a high-quality cup of coffee while hiking or camping in some of the most remote parts of the country?
Quality & Convenience Gone are the days of chugging cheap instant coffee out of plastic thermoses— today’s on-the-go consumers want products that allow them to brew a cup
even just ten years ago want to enjoy the experience of making coffee and are taking steps to be more involved in how the final cup turns out at all points of the process—from coffee origin to roast, water temperature, and brewing technique.” Planetary Design’s BruTrek line features double-wall insulated, stainless steel drinkware and French press coffee makers with the patent-pending BruStop technology, which stops the brewing process once the plunger is pressed to avoid over-brewing. Starting out 15 years ago with its Big Sky Bistro, the line has since expanded to include
AEROPRESS GO PHOTO BY NIKKI BIGGER AND BEN WAUGH, OVRLNDR PHOTO COURTESY OF PLANETARY DESIGN
or in the campground. The 28-fl.-oz. French press also features a handle-less design to keep it compact and easy to store; a no-leak, drinkable lid so users can throw it in the back seat or a backpack without worrying about coffee stains; and the BruStop plunger to keep coffee grounds from over-extracting and causing bitter coffee, even after a three-hour hike or long commute. “Many of the needs for camping and commuting are the same,” says Nepstad. “You want a great cup of hassle-free coffee, with gear that doesn’t take up too much space, and is portable and easy to clean.”
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 61
The Fresh Cup Guide to Brewing On-the-Go
An Exceptional Cup Understanding those needs for the on-the-go coffee lover, Seattle-based company MiiR recently brought to market its Pourigami, a compact, flat-pack pour-over dripper ideal for travelers and minimalists alike. With three interlocking stainless steel panels, the Pourigami can be disassembled to easily fit in your back pocket, while its carrying case can also stash filters for the road. MiiR founder and CEO Bryan Papé, an avid traveler, wanted to create an option that allowed consumers to enjoy high-quality coffee without bulky, fragile, or wasteful equipment. Inspired by the idea that coffee lovers do not need to sacrifice quality over convenience, the Pourigami was born. “Exceptional coffee should not be an exception,” says Cecilia Vollert, marketing specialist for MiiR. “The Pourigami allows you to maintain your coffee routine and preferences, even when brewing on-the-go.” Although it may not collapse for easy storage like the Pourigami, Hario’s Double Mesh Metal Dripper is another great choice for adventurers, as it’s lightweight, durable, and uses the same brewing method as the brand’s popular V60. Other perks? “You do not need a paper filter,” says Hario representative Kaho Tanimura, and “it has scale marks for coffee grounds,” meaning you don’t need to carry a measuring scoop. The stainless steel dripper’s two overlapping finely etched mesh filters allows users to brew coffee with rich flavor and deep aroma, so “you can enjoy delicious coffee,” says Tanimura, “even outside.”
MIIR’ S POURIGAMI
HARIO’ S DOUBLE MESH METAL DRIPPER
Pressing Matters The ability to maintain one’s coffee routine no matter where they are in the world has been at the heart of AeroPress since its inception in 2005. One of the most recognized brewing devices today, the AeroPress has been a popular travel
62 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
MIIR DRIPPER PHOTO: MIIR.COM, HARIO PHOTO COURTESY OF HARIO
companion for coffee lovers, particularly since it is big enough to stash a hand grinder inside. In 2007, the company began selling the AeroPress with a zippered nylon tote bag big enough to hold both the equipment and a mug—an offering that eventually grew to 15% of total sales. “We started getting consumer feedback from those using the AeroPress on the go that a more compact portable version that included a durable, lightweight mug would be enthusiastically received,” says Constance Romero, marketing coordinator. “We also quickly learned that a more targeted portable version was needed to break into the outdoor and travel retailer market.” AEROPRESS GO
And so, last year, the company launched its AeroPress Go, a more compact version that comes with its own 15-oz. mug and fits all of the accessories (scoop, filter holder, and collapsible stirrer) inside. However, due to its smaller size, the Go does not fit most hand grinders, compared to its original counterpart. Another tradeoff was that the mug is made of plastic—though food-grade and safe, some users may still prefer their own ceramic mug. Whether customers use the original or the Go, Romero says that both products offer a lot of positive qualities, all of which appeal to outdoor enthusiasts and office workers alike.
Don’t Forget These Essentials “ [It’s important to] have equipment handy that still helps you meet your coff ee standard and needs,” says MiiR’s Cecilia Vollert.
HOT WATER
GRINDER
It’s assumed you’ll have access to hot water, whether from your home, at your office, or boiled over a campfire. When he goes camping, Steeped Coffee’s Nate Appel turns to his Jetboil Zip cooking system to heat his water; another great option is the BioLite CampStove. For shorter journeys, Vollert suggests boiling water at home and taking it with you in a travel tumbler. “Our vacuum-insulated drinkware allows you to prep hot water and keep it toasty for hours on end, allowing you flexibility in your coffee prep,” she says.
While Hario’s manual grinders are especially popular, their Smart G Electric Handy coffee grinder is also a great choice. With a handle for hand grinding, it can also turn into an electric grinder with the Mobile Mill stick: just remove the coffee mill handle and lid, put coffee beans into the hopper, attach the Smart G grinder, and push the switch to start grinding. “ You can grind coffee beans easily anywhere,” says Hario’s Kaho Tanimura. “ The compact size and lithium storage battery make it perfectly portable.”
COFFEE BEANS & TEA LEAVES
DRINKWARE
What good is your brewing equipment if you don’t have coffee to brew? Be sure to choose storage that is lightweight and keeps your beans or grounds dry and fresh. Planetary Design’s top-selling category is its Airscape line, designed to store coffee, tea leaves, and other dry goods; its patented lid removes and locks out air to preserve freshness and flavor. MiiR’s Coffee Canister can hold a standard 12-oz. bag of whole or ground beans, while its interior accordion-style seal compresses to remove oxygen and protect flavor.
With so many options on the market today, it can be overwhelming to figure out what’s the best mug to travel with, let alone what will stand up to a long weekend in the woods. Some of Fresh Cup’s favorites include Fellow Products’ Carter Everywhere Mug and MiiR’s Camp Cup; both can hold up to the pressure from hand-pressing devices or fit a pour-over dripper. Visit freshcup. com/a-new-wave-of-thermal-products-isheating-up-the-market/ for more options.
AEROPRESS GO PHOTO BY NIKKI BIGGER AND BEN WAUGH; PHOTOS AT RIGHT CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JETBOIL.COM, COURTESY OF HARIO, COURTESY OF FELLOW, PLANETARYDESIGN.COM
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 63
The Fresh Cup Guide to Brewing On-the-Go “They are both easy to use, quick to clean, and offer lots of brew recipe flexibility,” she says. “But at the end of the day, the reason that they are so popular is taste. You can make an absolutely delicious cup of coffee with the AeroPress or the AeroPress Go, and that’s the key to their success.”
In the Palm of Your Hand Years ago, Jessica Do Tully was an everyday coffee lover who enjoyed using manual brewers. However, she struggled to find one that had all the qualities she was looking for: no plastic or disposables, completely reusable, simple to clean, nice aesthetic—and still made delicious coffee. That quest inspired her to start researching and prototyping, which eventually led to the Palmpress. A sleek, all-in-one, collapsible press that requires no filters, the Palmpress allows users to hand-brew coffee that doesn’t come into contact with plastic: just add coffee to the marked line, pour in water, stir, and wait, before inverting over a mug and pressing to extract. To clean, simply open it up, dispose of the grounds, and rinse with warm water and soap. Besides its eco-friendliness (no disposables of any kind), the Palmpress is also popular for its aesthetic design and versatility. “We’ve learned it addresses a variety of different needs for different people,” says Tully. “I think versatile tools are super useful, as we have different needs at different times, and one thing that contributes to versatility is portability.” The Palmpress demonstrates that your primary way of brewing highquality coffee at home can also be the way you brew coffee at the office, hotel, Airbnb, or while camping. “While in some cases portability or ease of use can mean a sacrifice to quality,” says Tully, “it’s neat that in other cases it can enable you to enjoy quality coffee more often.”
64 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PALMPRESS
#Recreate Responsibly The U.S. National Park Service encourages you to #RecreateResponsibly this summer: be sure to Leave No Trace when you visit parks and follow CDC guidelines to reduce the spread of COVID-19. This includes: - Visit NPS.gov/findapark for current park conditions and availability of restrooms and other facilities. - Make a plan, bring the essentials, and stay home if you are sick. - Follow the state and county orders governing the open status of the area you’re visiting. - Stay six feet away from others whether you are on a trail, at a boat launch, or in a parking lot. - Cover your nose and mouth if you’re near others. - Postpone challenging hikes or trying new activities while first responders, parks, and communities continue to concentrate on responding to the pandemic. - Pack it in, pack it out: Trash pickup and restroom facilities will continue to be limited in many park areas.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF PALMPRESS
COPPER COW COFFEE
Mission-Powered Further propelling the belief that today’s consumers don’t have to sacrifice quality over convenience when it comes to on-the-go brewing, Copper Cow Coffee prides itself on making a perfect pour-over as easy as possible. Formerly in the banking industry, Debbie Wei Mullin, whose family is from Vietnam, started Copper Cow Coffee in 2016 as a way to pursue her dream of creating a business based on her two biggest passions: Vietnamese cuisine and sustainable development. Copper Cow creates all-natural specialty portable pour-over Vietnamese coffee sweetened with California condensed milk and sugar. Customers can choose from almost 10 flavors, including bestsellers Classic Latte, Lavender Latte, Churro Latte, and the dairy-free Coconut Latte, as well as “Just Black” and decaf options, that can be enjoyed either hot or iced.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF COPPER COW COFFEE
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 65
The Fresh Cup Guide to Brewing On-the-Go “Americans love convenience—even the most discerning customer always would like to save time,” says Mullin. “As our preferences for specialty coffee have grown, so have the ways of making it as easy as possible.” Sustainability and empowering communities are at the core of this missionoriented company, which employs a women-owned supply chain. “We have an active relationship with not only our coffee farmers in Vietnam, but with every step of our supply chain,” says Mullin. “Our farmers are paid two times the market rate, and our farms only use organic agricultural and processing methods—that means no chemicals or pesticides.”
STEEPED COFFEE
COPPER COW COFFEE FARMERS
Accessible & Sustainable
As for the physical product, used coffee filters and grounds can be composted, while the outer foil of each packet is recyclable. “Each portion of our product is made to be better for the Earth,” says Mullin.
66 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
Another company fully embracing sustainability while making portable brewing accessible is Steeped Coffee. Founder and CEO Josh Wilbur wanted to combine the convenience of singleserve brewing, with the premium quality of ethically sourced coffee and with packaging made using fully compostable and renewable materials.
“Sustainability was one of the main goals of developing the Steeped Brewing Method,” says Nate Appel, director of marketing. “We felt people shouldn’t have to compromise on sustainability, taste, or convenience to make an outstanding single cup of coffee.” Today, Steeped delivers 100% handroasted specialty coffee in nitro-sealed bags; just add hot water, steep, and enjoy. Its high-quality taste, ease, and
COPPER COW COFFEE FARMER PHOTO: INSTAGRAM @COPPERCOWCOFFEE, STEEPED PHOTOS COURTESY OF STEEPED COFFEE
learn about Steeped Coffee’s “You Give, We Give” campaign.] As the needs of specialty coffee drinkers continue to evolve, companies are quickly learning to adapt to provide the tools necessary for a high-quality cup of coffee—no matter where you are. As Jess Nepstad says, “The inherent expectation for brewing equipment is to deliver on the quest for great coffee anywhere.” FC
STEEPED COFFEE
Learn more about the companies and products in this story: AeroPress aeropress.com Copper Cow Coff ee coppercowcoffee.com
versatility make it an ideal brewing method for anyone on the go. “For the adventurer, Steeped brings the richness of French press coffee into the backcountry without the extra weight of...heavy coffee gadgets,” says Appel. “For the commuter, you can pour hot water over a Steeped bag, dip and dunk, throw the lid on your mug, and be on your way out the door…. For the specialty coffee connoisseur,
Steeped lets you easily explore new blends without the commitment of purchasing a whole bag of coffee.” And in the last few months, another demographic has emerged: frontline workers in need of a quick caffeine boost. “Steeped bypasses any risks of using a communal coffee pot, which has been an extremely welcome option for healthcare workers, especially in hospitals,” notes Appel. [Turn to p. 16 to
Hario hario.jp MiiR miir.com Palmpress palmpress.coffee Planetar y Design planetarydesign.com Steeped Coff ee steepedcoffee.com
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 67
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE HOME-BREW YOUR CHAI Chai Me At Home Blend One Stripe Chai www.onestripechai.com Try One Stripe’s Chai Me At Home for a new tea experience—all you need is hot water and a splash of milk! Sporting ginger, cardamom, and black pepper, this masala chai blend’s black tea is sourced directly from an organic, biodynamic farm in Assam, India. This Portland, Oregon-based company, which packs and blends locally, also offers unsweetened and sweetened chai concentrate in a bottle.
TAIKA AWAY RTD Coff ee in a Can Taika www.taika.co Take Taika’s ready-to-drink coffee on the go this summer! Named after the word “ magic” in Finnish, its adaptogenic blend features L-theanine for focus, ashwagandha for stress relief, and mushrooms including Lion’s Mane, reishi, and Cordyceps militaris. Find it in three different flavors: Black Coffee, Macadamia Latte, and Oat Milk Latte, each in 9.5-fl. oz. cans that can fit anywhere in your routine.
68 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
DOUBLE TROUBLE Tea & Hair Rinse Treatments Forev er Wild Organics www.foreverwildorganics.com Why not drink some tea and treat your hair too? This line of tea is made for both! Developed by an herbalist and licensed beauty professional, Forever Wild Organics chooses ingredients that are sourced from zero-waste certified organic farms and are chemical free. This three-pack includes all of the tea blends: Forever Energizing, Forever Calming, and Forever Nourishing. No growth agents, no pesticides, no herbicides, all the antioxidants. 50 servings per 4-oz. pouch.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 69
Counter Intelligence
BREAK IT DOWN Customized, Compostable Packaging No Issue www.noissue.co Package your products without worrying about the waste with No Issue’s compostable mailers. Available in a range of sizes, No Issue’s envelopes are a simple, fun way to get started in sustainability, made from plantbased material that is easy to break down at home or in commercial spaces. Low minimum order quantities available.
THE SWEET LIFE Reduced-Sugar Syrups 1883 1883.com 1883 takes a unique look at reducing sugar with their new 30%less sugar syrups, made with real cane sugar—just less of it. Its blend of natural flavors matches the sweetness of a regular syrup, ideal for consumers who want a lower sugar content in their beverage without sacrificing flavor. Currently available in Vanilla and Caramel, with more flavors to come.
70 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
THE TIDE IS HIGH Elevate Creamer Rising Tide www.rising-tide.co The future is plant-based with Rising Tide’s Elevate Creamer. Made to be vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free, this is a fun addition to any coffee or tea drink. With five ingredients—MCT Oil, coconut milk, Lion’s Mane mushrooms, acacia fiber, and coconut nectar—the blend can be added to any hot or cold drink, from smoothies to matcha. 38 servings per 8-oz. bag.
ALL ABOUT SOUL Masala Chai Powder Soul Chai www.soulchai.com One teaspoon away to brighten your day, Soul Chai’s Masala Chai Powder is spicy and sweet, highlighting organic spices like black pepper, cloves, and cinnamon—add honey or any sweetener to taste. Try its rooibos masala chai powder for a caffeine-free option! Each 3.5-oz. can makes about 50 servings.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 71
Counter Intelligence
THE RIPPLE EFFECT Barista Style Plant-based Milk Ripple www.ripplefoods.com Plant-based milk that froths and foams when you need it to is here. Ripple’s Barista Style Milk uses pea protein and sunflower oil, delivers six grams of protein per serving, and is vegan, soy-free, nut-free, and gluten free. Available in 25.4- or 32-fl.oz. bottles made of 100% post-consumer recycled PET plastic that is truly recyclable and using less water to produce than dairy, Ripple provides a worryfree experience.
72 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 Âť f r esh cup. com
THINK ZERO-WASTE Dissolving Coff ee Pouches STIRZ www.stirzbrands.com Living zero-waste doesn’t have to stop at your coffee routine with STIRZ Brands’ Dissolving Coffee Pouches. Made with FDA GRAS-certified food-grade film, the single-serve pouch dissolves after adding hot water, creating custom Arabica microground coffee. Packaged in biodegradable, compostable packaging, leave no trace on your next outdoor adventure. Available in a pack of 12 pouches.
BLEND IT UP 100% Fruit Smoothie 1883 1883.com On its all-natural journey towards innovation, 1883 is launching its Smoothie Mix line, available in five flavors: Peach, Mango, Strawberry, Strawberry Banana, and Wildberry. Naturally sweetened with fruit juice, with no added sugars, just pour over ice, and blend! Available in 22-lb. cases.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 73
Counter Intelligence
LIKE GELATO ON A HOT DAY Death By Aff ogato Porter Oskar Blues Brew er y www.oskarblues.com Espresso beans, vanilla, and cacao team up for Oskar Blues Brewery’s newest addition to its “ Death By” series, the Death By Affogato Porter—just like gelato topped with coffee best enjoyed on a hot day to energize your summer. Made with Ugandan and Madagascar vanilla beans and espresso beans from Colorado’s Traction Coffee Roasters, with notes of caramel and marshmallows. Available in a four-pack of 12-oz. cans. 6.5% alc.
TEA UP, ANYWHERE Gongfu Travel Tea Set Aera Tea www.aeratea.com Brew and savor tea anywhere with Aera Tea Co.’s sleek ceramic tea set. The ready-to-go kit includes a protective carrying case, a teapot, two cups, and a stainless steel infuser. Aera Tea was founded in Yunnan, China, and focuses on environmental stewardship, community, and tea excellence. Turn heads at the airport, on the train, at the park, or take time for yourself at home—experience your tea, wherever you are.
74 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
GO PLANT-BASED Barista Series Elmhurst 1925 www.elmhurst1925.com Plant-based milks that double as creamers and steamers, Elmhurst’s award-winning milk alternatives are vegan and shelf-stable. Available in Hemp, Almond, Oat, and Cashew as a variety pack or seperately. Created with six ingredients and no additives, this creamy addition to the milk lineup is sure to become a crowd favorite.
4 THE CAUSE Roasted Rick’s Small Batch Coff ee for a Better World Food 4 Far mers www.food4farmers.org Food 4 Farmers introduces Roasted Rick’s Small Batch Coffee for a Better World in honor of its cofounder Rick Peyser. This small-batch, medium body coffee features tasting notes of grapefruit, plums, and dark chocolate, and is a fully washed Arabica from Inzá Cauca in Colombia, produced by a group of 52 smallholders in the “ Macizo Colombiano.” $25 a bag, shipping is free and only within the United States. 100% of the proceeds from coffee bag sales will go toward Food 4 Farmers’ work on food security in Latin America.
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 75
Counter Intelligence
BREW WITH PRECISION GemX Commercial Coff ee Maker Cur tis www.wilburcurtis.com Need a no-frills brewing system? Curtis’ GemX Commercial Coffee Maker provides seamless operation with flexible programming that prioritizes time and temperature. Its icon-focused interface makes it easy to learn, and the LED light lets you know across the room that it is ready to enjoy, without distracting sounds. Join the 75-year family business legacy in coffee equipment and have security knowing its parts can be swapped out and sourced directly from Curtis. Includes a USB port and fast flow hot water faucet. Available in single (2.2 gallons) and double (5.2 gallons) sizes.
TIME FOR A COOLDOWN Smith Tea’s Iced Tea Blends Barista Pro Shop www.baristaproshop.com Steven Smith knew that in order to continue the tradition of great tea blends, his company would have to work tirelessly to craft iced teas that set them apart—and that’s exactly what they did! Using the same mouth-watering blends as their hot teas, Smith Tea now offers an iced variation that is sure to refresh your customers and keep them coming back for more. Available in 1-gallon sachets and 3-gallon loose tea pouches for restaurants, cafés, and the world’s coolest iced tea stands.
76 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
FC
SUSTAINABLE MATTERS
How to Start Decreasing Waste in Your Business By Janae Easlon
W
e hear phrases like “zero-waste” and “low impact” more and more everyday—whether it’s from NoPac Foods: Zero Waste Grocery announcing it will open in Portland, Oregon, or from Lauren Singer, the owner and founder of Package Free Shop in New York City, who also posted a YouTube video about how all her trash over four years fits in a mason jar. Consumers around the world are becoming increasingly more aware of the waste they create in their day-today lives. They’re not only depending more on recycling and composting, but are thinking more critically about waste prevention and making decisions on which businesses to support based on sustainability efforts. It is important to note that in Indigenous and Native communities around the world, zero-waste practices were a part of everyday life way before contemporary ideas of zero waste came about. For example, the County of Hawai‘i cites in its Zero Waste Implementation Plan that Native Hawai‘ians have lived sustainably in their daily activities for centuries.
78 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
As the coffee and tea industry looks to the future, one question on many business owners’ minds is how to implement and sustain a low environmental impact. By 2050, scientists estimate that there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish. But not only plastic is an issue. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, more food waste reaches landfills than other single materials, with less than 10% of food waste making it to compost; in fact, most of it could have been on shelves longer. The specialty coffee and tea industry, from cafés to manufacturers, are highly visible in contributing to the problem due to single-use cups, coffee and tea grounds, to-go containers, and other plastics. Now more than ever, social media is driving awareness, and both consumers and producers are continuously looking for ways to limit their output. In the words of Canadian scientist and climate activist David Suzuki, “If we want to move toward a low-polluting, sustainable society, we need to get consumers to think about their purchases.” Fresh Cup shares some ideas to help get you started.
The Four R’s REDUCE Find innovative ways to use less
R EUSE Use again or more than once
RECYCLE Transfer waste to receptacles to be taken to recycle centers
ROT Compost appropriate waste, like coffee grounds, to benefit gardeners, etc.
PHOTO BY ANNIE SPRATT
Accessibility Matters Taking away straws or insulation for cups can cause barriers with customers with physical disabilities, so keep in mind that having items available upon request can limit the use while giving options to customers. Also, zero-waste and sustainable products do cost more. Think about if raising your prices because of these materials will be a cost barrier for customers. Plastic is made to be more affordable, and many people opt for it to keep costs low. If your business creates products, think about using business models that encourage reuse and resale. It’s also important to note that people of color are disproportionately affected by environmental risks and health risks caused by them. Read literature and research about environmental racism, which is “racial discrimination in environmental policy making, the enforcement of regulations and laws, the deliberate targeting of communities of color for toxic waste facilities, the official sanctioning of the life-threatening presence of poisons and pollutants in our communities, and the history of excluding people of color from leadership of the ecology movements.” This definition came from Black civil rights leader Dr. Benjamin Chavis, who coined the term in the 1980s by correlating toxic waste locations to BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, People of Color) communities.
PHOTO BY POLINA TANKILEVITCH
F R ESH CUP M AGAZI NE [ 79
Sustainable Matters Some beginning strategies that can help launch the conversation with other business owners, employees, and customers include: - Eye your business’ trash. Implement see-through bags and guess-timate what and how much has been thrown away. Being aware of what you are throwing away is key to understanding how to adjust your habits in the future. Visit www.freshcup.com/canyour-cafe-go-zero-waste to learn how to conduct a thorough trash audit and download an auditing worksheet. - Think about what you can’t throw away or recycle and how to direct it in the appropriate place. Research local composting and waste management facilities, and how to dispose of what cannot be thrown away in traditional recycling. Consider repairing before throwing out rundown items. Donate extra food at the end of the day to local shelters. - Establish an internal team that keeps track of waste and encourages waste reduction practices within your staff. - Build accountability by creating language in your business around waste. Posting signs and policies about how you approach waste can help serve as reminders for both customers and staff. For example, asking customers to only take what they need or providing materials upon request can help regulate the amount of products used. - Develop strategies that work for you and your employees with zero-waste in mind. Some businesses opt for having the customer dispose of waste in appropriate bins or their employees sort waste from catch-all bins. Try out a cup lending program, where customers can get a discount on their coffee if they bring the cup they used prior back into the business (making sure to thoroughly sanitize it!). - Keep track of how much you’ve kept from getting used and monitor your cost savings. Research and choose suppliers that are also on the zerowaste or reusable track.
80 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
The United States and Canada have been cited by the World Bank to be among the top countries that produce the most solid waste per person. By introducing zero-waste practices to your business, you are not only getting ahead of the legislative curve due to many municipalities changing the way it handles waste, but you are also getting ahead of policies being put into place all over the world. To illustrate, consider Ontario, Canada’s Strategy for a Waste-Free Ontario, established in 2016. This legislation aspires to work toward less waste through increasing the useful life of materials by improving design, products, and business models. By educating ourselves on low impact practices and sharing with others how to become more responsible consumers and business owners, it is possible to become an agent of change. Why not strike up a conversation with your staff, attend a city council meeting, or share your journey on your social media platforms? In the words of Zero-Waste Chef creator Anne-Marie Bonneau, “We don’t need a handful of people doing zero waste perfectly. We need millions of people doing it imperfectly.” You and your business can start today. FC
More Resources • Find a compost pickup near you: compostnow.org • Contact a food waste reduction specialist in your city to learn more about options on minimizing food waste • Check out Eco Cycle’s A to Z Recycling Guide at ecocycle.org • Bookmark environmental justice organizations to learn more : ◌ We Act For Environmental Justice, weact.org ◌ Climate Justice Alliance, climatejusticealliance.org ◌ Indigenous Environmental Network, ienearth.org ◌ Leah Thomas’s Intersectional Environmentalist, intersectional environmentalist.com
PHOTO BY COTTONBRO
ADVERTISER INDEX
To view our advertiser list and visit the websites listed below, go to freshcup.com/resources/fresh-cup-adv er tisers
ADVERTISER
CONTACT
ONLINE
1883 Maison Routin
800.367.1883
1883.com
Baratza
425.641.1245
baratza.com
37
Barista Pro Shop
866.776.5288
baristaproshop.com/ad/fresh
21
Cafe Creations
800.242.2423
cafecreations@hphood.com
84
Café Femenino Foundation
360.901.8322
cffoundation.org
59
Canadian Barista & Coffee Academy
canadianbaristaacademy.com
66
Coffee Fest
425.295.3300
coffeefest.com
Custom Cup Sleeves
888-672-4096
customcupsleeves.com
67
Ditting
810.367.7125
ditting.com
27
Fresh Cup Magazine
503.236.2587
freshcup.com
Ghirardelli Chocolate
800.877.9338
ghirardelli.com/professional
83
Golden Bean
503.706.1330
goldenbean.com
81
Gosh That’s Good! Brand
888.848.GOSH (4674)
goshthatsgood.com
11
Haelssen & Lyon
212.480.5721
haelssen-lyon.com
29
Hershey Foodservice
800.468.1714
hersheyfoodservice.com
35
Java Jacket
800.208.4128
javajacket.com
33
Malabar Gold Espresso
650.366.5453
malabargoldespresso.com
25
Milkadamia
630.861.2102
milkadamia.com
Mountain Cider Co.
800.483.2416
mountaincider.com
23
Oregon Chai
844.537.7937
oregonchai.com
51
Pacific Foods of Oregon
503.692.9666
pacificfoods.com/foodservice
2
Say When Beverages
604.940.9887
justsaywhen.com
5
SelbySoft
800.454.4434
selbysoft.com
21
Service Ideas
800.328.4493
serviceideas.com
23
Tea Trade Show
973.551.9161
teatradeshow.com
66
TeaSource
855.320.4832
teasource.com
19
Theta Ridge Coffee
800.745.8738
thetaridgecoffee.com
67
Toddy
970.493.0788
toddycafe.com
37
World Tea Conference + Expo
212.895.8285
worldteaexpo.com
32
Your Brand Cafe
866.566.0390
yourbrandcafe.com
4
Zojirushi America
800.264.6270
zojirushi.com
82 ] J ULY/AUGUST 2 0 2 0 » f r esh cup. com
PAGE 3
6
36, 77
7
36