VOLUME 05 LIKE FREE NASTY FARTS
FRESH
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ED’s note Should I be totally ashamed of myself for just putting out two issues in a year, when I tell people that we are a quarterly publication? Obviously I have those moments, but you just got to carry on or quit. First of all, I knew that running a magazine solely was something that did not existed, yet still I made it happen. Sometimes I wonder if there is a demand for what I produce, yet another ‘but’ comes to mind, where at least it is safe to say that it looks legit. I finally took the initiative to infuse male content into the pages of FRESH, and what easier than to interview fashion designers. East Londoner William Richard Green, and Zurich based label Marc Stone are definitely a one to watch. There is immense potential for each brand to grow by leaps and bounds, but it really depends whether the mass favours individuality over trends. I have exciting new projects in the coming year which I would like to share with everyone, including a proposed t-shirt line, a special issue to celebrate our 2nd year anniversary, and will most likely branch out into having an official Youtube channel. Issue 06 is expected out by late January … give or take. Peace, M.
Creative Director / Founder Michael Cheung info.freshmag@yahoo.com Contributors Cheuk Hei Chan Ekin Saclioglu Elizabeth Allen Emily Wordsworth Joe Nigel Coleman Kin Wai Cheung Marc Stone William Richard Green Cover Art Lukasz Weirzbowski lukaszwierzbowski.com
Reproduction in whole or part without written permission from the Publisher is strictly prohibited. While ever reasonable care is taken for editorial contributions, no responsibility will be assumed for return of materials. Opinions expressed or implied in FRESH are solely those of writers, and are not necessarily well thought out, or endorsed by the Editor or Publisher. © 2012 Fresh Magazine.
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Fashionable Optics The big hype for Google’s augmented reality glasses made its way onto fashion weeks Diane Von Furstenberg catwalk...very geek meets chic. Apart from the shows footage being much like a badly filmed horror movie, the backstage tidbits from Diane herself showed the electrifying atmosphere just before it all hits the runway. Perhaps this is what our future will be, and ditch documenting your sex life on Twitter. dvf.com
Back To Basics Just like the name suggests, Building Block should be the staples in any girls closet, going back to a simpler time with simpler designs, the bags are in an industrial black apart from their seasonal collection, which remains a classic camel colour. With some much of life being one loud mess, why not take out the excess in your wardrobe building--block.com
Lips And Leather What looks like Georgia May Jagger’s lips is now the highlight of Markus Lupfer’s AW 2012 collection, the range of knit jumpers are taking on pop culture kisses and proverbs in the form of sewn on sequins. The collection is a lesson in breathing edge into an everyday ensemble. markuslupfer.com
Sky High Sky Ferreira can now been seen strewn across Vigoss FW 2012 campaign, her face has got that certain edge, not to mention that it was snapped up by photographer Mario Sorrenti. If you haven’t heard of Vigoss, they are the latest in the skinny jeans market, with a cool and crisp range of high caliber denim vigoss.com
Herschel Field Collection The bold bright stripes are easily reminiscent of the shirts on rugby players backs, the field collection is an assembly of the brands classic line and Cordura Brand Fabric, made for the wear and tear of the field. A range of Canvas backpacks and sports bags complete the collection; the colours are perfect for Fall season wear. herschelsupply.com
Shades Of Grey by Mica Cohen It’s no relation to the recent “mummy” porn on the current book market, Micah Cohen’s love for LA isn’t amiss in his SS13 collection, all a heady cocktail of bold prints and more formal wear, sort of like Ace Ventura in a dinner jacket. The relaxed styles take form in gym shorts, short-sleeved button down shirts, varsity jackets and anoraks. It all embodies the new-age of men’s street style.
Son of a Sailor Always playful, the duo of Son of a Sailor makes some sophisticated yet cute jewellery, mainly from leather and brass. Their hand-painted pendants have been making a few appearances in the fashion world as of late. Definitely the frontiers of hand made goodies right now! It might just be the kick for a DIY revolution. sonofasailorjewelry.com
Dama Table Lamp Re-cycling is old news, say hello (and embrace) the new wave of up cycling, eco-designer Tom Allen has done just that with the Dama Table Lamp. It’s an almost obvious idea when you see it, an old wine vessel with other sustainable electrics to make the delightful light! We’re all for it! tomallendesign.com
Huh
The TREK Its all about choice and freedom, even the freedom to move your ceiling light there you please. For us who are cramped in small apartments, we can now feel liberated with our lights, Cape Town born designer Leanie van der Vyer has created a system of button screws that allow the light to be manipulated and moved however you see fit, taking atmospheric lighting in a whole different direction! Not to mention how much this could save on lights in every room ‌
cargocollective.com/leanie
Nut Bird Houses For those who have a place in their heart for natures feathered friends, J Shatz presents a series of minimal little birdhouses hand made in New York. There’s even a little guide to how you can attract specific species to your feeder. Made from ceramic the feeders are carved, polished, glazed and then fired to perfection. jschatz.com
FOCUs LABEL
earrings, and ring by House of Harlow necklace by Giles & Brothers
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earrings by House of Harlow Monki knows how to bring the joy back into dressing up, the brand brings a funky Swedish style without burning a hole in your wallet, amen! Their latest collection boasts bold prints for the breezy weather as well as your staple Denims and button down shirts.
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necklace, and (left) bangle by Giles & Brothers ring, and (right) bangle by House of Harlow
FOCUs LABEL
4 necklace, and (top) bangle by House of Harlow ring, and (bottom) bangle by Giles & Brothers
/all clothing
/photographer michael cheung /makeup peggy tsui /model jacq frank styling
earrings, and bangle by House of Harlow ring by H&M
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earrings and (long) necklace by House of Harlow necklace by Giles & Brothers
illustrator
Our feet cooing to be slipped inside a pair of Havaianas, the modern day staple to any wardrobe of anyone in the know! The simple Japanese inspired design; with a single strapped and textured pattern on the foot bed makes these soles unmistakable. They’ve also revamped the classic with a new criss-cross ankle strap style; another must have for the closet!
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collaboration with:
Joe nigel Coleman
oioioi ! An image should always stay as an open dialogue, oppose to strangling the viewer. It should be inviting, yet has a spark to it that is intangible. Joe Nigel Coleman shoots at ease, where we believe that his intentions is not to take a great photograph, but to simply document what he perceive in an unobtrusive manner. There is spontaneity to his style of capturing that leaves a soft spot to whoever appreciates a mellow conversation.
I read somewhere that you only shoot in film, is the statement still valid? Yes, it is. Does shooting exclusively in film limit your clientele range and opportunities in general? If I have to be honest, I would say it does. Although saying so, the film aesthetic has become a major element of which certain clients are specifically looking for. What sort of film do you normally use when shooting portraits? Do you happen to be a fan of collection expired cans of film? At the moment, I’m really into using Kodak Portra 800, which in my opinion is great in low light, and gets some really nice grains and tones. If we are talking specifically about black and white photography, then it would be the Fuji Neopan 1600, which unfortunately has just been discontinued. As for using expired cans of film, that was something I have experimented with a year or so ago. You can get some great results with them, but it can get very unpredictable. What made you decide to settle in London, for the time being? I guess it’s an amazing city where it has a lot going on at the moment. I have also got good friends residing in London, which is great. Which subject matter do you enjoy taking pictures more of … friends or strangers? Definitely familiar faces and friends, people who I’m just comfortable with, and vice versa. Do you get homesick, as Australia has got to be one of the most spectacular places to live in, nature-wise? Yes, I do occasionally have moments where I miss home. I know there are plenty more outdoor adventures waiting for me down the line though. Are you a fan of using a tripod? I rarely see myself using a tripod. I would only use it on occasions where I’m using slow shutter speed, where I require something steady for the camera to rest on. What sort of camera do you bring along, when you travel with a backpack? I like to bring a few, which normally consists of an SLR, a point and shoot, and probably something cheap I am not afraid of breaking.
joenigelcoleman.com
Has there been an incident where equipment of yours has been stolen, or damaged during an escapade? Surprisingly none of my gear has ever been stolen from a shoot before. I have had moments where I’ve dropped a few cameras, and a couple might have been broken, but that’s something to be expected of when using second-hand gear. In your own opinion, is being technically strong crucial in becoming a successful photographer? Not at all, it’s all about ones vision. How many cameras do you currently own? I’ve got five at the moment here in London and a box back home in Australia with a lot more. Does shooting in film let you visually present something more realistic, or do you think that it can still all be illustrated in the same level when shooting in digital? Sometimes digital just seems too squeaky clean and perfect, which is not necessarily the way an image should be portrayed. I think the imperfections of film can represent a more accurate view of reality.
william richard green
Do you reckon that the sportswear trend that has been evolving through the past couple of years will grow further in seasons to come? I guess it would. For once, it feels good to see people showcasing clothes that are wearable and comfortable to wear on a daily basis. Which sportswear focused label have you always found yourself wearing, and what makes them (if any) better than the others? To be honest, I don’t really buy clothes, but I do come to appreciate and love what Christopher Shannon is doing. Umbro is also a label that I personally think is doing great things.
Like any talented person who works in the creative industry, you’ve got to have more than one trick up your sleeve. William Richard Green is a man who owns a menswear label, while producing dance music on the side. For someone who is living in the city, he understands innately what London hipsters are looking for. FRESH totally digs what he does, and we had to get down.
In your most recent interview with Dazed, you mentioned that prior moving to London you have played a great a range of sports. Do you think being active in sports at a social level pushed your understanding of the human body? It might have, although I think perhaps I think more about what is wearable, and what works for guys that need clothing to move around in a lot.
special thanks to Andrew Scott at Material PR
What was the overall inspiration of your Autumn/Winter 12 collection? I have got to say that the vibe of the collection is slightly different from your previous season. It seems to be a bit tougher, with the model giving us thug face. The inspiration was the terrace culture from Millwall football ground. In general, I have consistently sought influences for my collections that leant towards masculine figures such as fishermen and Vikings. As seasons past and as I get older by day, the clothes I make might come of looking tougher.
Do you often work/collaborate with celebrities and private clients on commissioned pieces? I actually do quite a few. It’s always nice to get commissioned to do something, as you get the luxury to take time and interact with someone that appreciates your vision. I am sure at some point you have thought about potentially branching into women’s wear. Do you think it is necessary, especially for sports attire, as it could be worn by both genders easily without looking off? Not necessarily but certainly interesting. Menswear has gotten a lot of attention through press in the UK right now, and what is general seen on the streets. For some reason I do get quite a lot of comments on whether I would eventually branch out into covering women’s wear, but personally it does not seem to be a priority at the moment. How did becoming a DJ come into place? Has not being a fashion designer alone busy enough. Or was mixing at clubs a way of hitting a balance in life? Dj-ing and music came before fashion. Everyone who is young and in fashion knows the feeling, and surely has experience in times, where one needs some sort of day job in order to support their craft. Mine happens to be dj-ing.
williamrichardgreen.com
Do you have any interesting projects you are busy working on at the moment? A bag collaboration which I will be able to talk about very soon, but right now with the London Collections: Men happening, I’ve been so busy on getting the next collection ready before I can shift my focus on other projects. Are the parents, and family a personal fan of your clothing? They love coming to see the presentations, so yes! Does living in East London in some way become a direct inspiration to your designs? If so, do explain what part of the area intrigues you the most. I don’t think that the area particularly plays an influence to my design aesthetic. I seem to be more inspired by cultures outside of London. Although that has been said, London is definitely an amazing art hub with people passionate in their crafts … so it does give everyone a kick, and I definitely feel motivated to be better. Would you say that there is a sense of humour incorporated into your clothes? Definitely, the guys that wear my clothes have to feel confidence … and having a sense of humour is a part of the DNA. Are you a fan of fashion trends? Don’t you think that the concept of a trend corrupts one’s mind, and it loses the fun factor of what clothing expresses? Although it does not play a role within my design process, I think that trends are important as it is how people find out about new things. Trends a lot of time are created through a youth subculture group, where it eventually expands into something massive, so really they are very interesting.
The Marc Stone guy is all about being at ease, travelling around the world in his comfiest clothes. His laid back sensibility shows through his wardrobe, as he favours cold dyed cottons and delicate wools. He doesn’t take a risk in his colour preferences, where he rather tends his attention on details. Would this be you? special thanks to Maria Herrero from Marc Stone
marc stone
What sort of men does your clothing dedicate to? Every designer has an ideal or imaginary figure in mind. Every season we re-evaluate that ideal figure of which we would like to dedicate the collection to. We always integrate an artist concept, where we create a mix between being practical, and sense of individuality. The Marc Stone strives for being an individual, and is seeking clothing that are wearable with style. It’s a man that appreciates design, and thinks beyond. What should outsiders who have never been to Zurich expect from its current fashion? It takes time to discover the treasures within the Zurich design scene. There are plenty of small, yet interesting shops around to discover, where you could find different styles of clothing. But it is suggested to bring along a guide, as the places aren’t in the main shopping districts where the usual luxury brands place their stores in. What style of dressing do you prefer more, rugged or sleek looking? As I prefer design with a story behind, I will tend more towards rugged silhouettes. This has been said, there are occasions where it’s appropriate to pull off a sleek look. If a person only had a day to see Switzerland, what should he/she do, or go to? I would probably take them to my hometown Lucerne, where you could find the lake and mountains to be very close. It’s one of the world’s prettiest cities with the world famous Chapel Bridge and Water Tower, the KKL culture and convention centre located just on the lake of Lucerne. Another suggestion would be the steepest cogwheel train in the world to experience the panorama on the nearby Pilatus peaks. What makes you deeply want to be a fashion designer? Would you say it is your calling in life? I think it is my constant drive and need to stay creative. The only way to truly work things out is to cherish, and love what you do, and I certainly try to push my limits. I guess you just know when you found that one thing that becomes more important than the rest.
What should men in general try to avoid wearing? There is nothing you can’t wear these days. But do try to make an effort to go for things with quality, which also enhances your personality. That to me is the key in dressing, than you’ll never go wrong. Have you ever had that moment of doubt, to the point where you have thought of discontinuing the label? Well, this happens again and again. But when I had a chance to look back on what the brand has achieved within the past few seasons, I seem more determined than ever to continue this pathway. It seems to be the way I need to go. Could you explain the process behind working on designing costumes for a stage play? Do you in some extent compensate your design aesthetics for functionality of clothing, as these performers had to move freely? For the costume design, I have a different approach, where I start with reading the script. It is my responsibility to have a map of the story plot, where I clearly draw out the individual characters, and the scenes each of them appear in, so that I get a clearer view of what everyone is wearing, and their overall movement throughout the play. With the identification of each role, it helps massively in tracking the specific costume appropriate for every character. With designing the clothing, I must also take into consideration the potential challenges, such as a very quick change between scenes. The process takes on a great influence on the whole concept of the design. The movement and the ease of each character is what should become the priority, and then comes the design.
marc-stone.ch
ekin saclioglu
a
nasty affair
Even if you took all day in attempt to dissect her work, you would not have known that they were actually inspired by daily happenings, and from moments of awareness. We find Ekin Saclioglu to be very articulate, especially for someone who constantly dabble with metaphors and analogies. A person’s artwork should speak for themselves, yet it is necessary for the artist to interact with his audience. Everyone likes to hear a good story. right?.
What is your fascination with hair? Actually, I don’t have a particular obsession with hair, though I do reckon that hair is an important element that makes latex sculptures come alive. Without embellishing these sculptures with hair, they do look naked. I have noticed that I do have a great curiosity with animal fur, where I find it impossible not to touch them. Don’t you just want to pet it constantly? I do have to emphasise that I am strongly against with humans’ killing animals solely for their fur. Do you think that facial hair intensifies someone’s physical beauty, or rather the other way around? I am not very good at remembering the length of people’s hair, their eyeglasses, or the pimples they have. For instance, it is possible for me to remember someone, who is said to have short hair and acne scars, as having long hair and smooth skin. And later I realize that the person is just like how they described her or him. This has happened to me many times. So, hair is not my first priority in case of first impressions. But that does not necessarily mean that there is no hair type that really attracts you, makes you look at (more), or turns someone into a more attractive person, aesthetically. Being a long, red-haired myself, in fact, I have always received compliments about my hair all the time. People always ask whether the colour of my hair is something I was born with or not. Maybe that’s why I am comfortable with hair to the extent that I do not even think about it. Between, my last name in English means “son of a hairy man”. Most of your three-dimensional works do resemble of the human male sexual organ. Were you expecting the general audience to see it as I see it, at first glance? I completed the first samples of these sculptures for a group exhibition titled “Friendship for 450 Million Years.” While designing a space plant, I intended to demonstrate how limited our imagination would be. To give someone two words such as “automobiles” and “flying”, all we could imagine was a flying automobile. Through developing further on my sculptural work, I have noticed that it did resemble the male human genital. Obviously, this is not entirely what I wanted to provoke, but what audience pick up from a work is out of your control, and they’re free to see what they want to see.
From somewhere you’ve said that your works come from a collective state of mind, the sum of our dreams. Is there a particular fragment of memory you are personally trying to preserve? I have only just started to break free from the weight of my memories at present. Though my visual memory as a whole is quite poor, my memory about certain events and past dialogues are preserved well. I seem to have carried whatever I have remembered from childhood into my paintings. I am not necessarily happy with documenting my past, as I feel tired and bored of it. Memories are precious fragments of a person’s life, and all I do is getting rid of them, where I should instead preserve them in a delicate manner. Your artworks are not necessarily straight forward, where it leans more towards an abstract approach. Would it be easier for the audience to read the pieces in a specific cultural context? Conveying a message and presenting things directly, reminds me of the language of advertising and we know that this type of language serves for a faster consumption. I reckon that art should be perceived in a relatively slower pace. It should invite the audience to loiter, think upon, and imagine on it sluggishly. Sometimes I do talk about my work too much. You become enthusiastic on what you produced. Willingly or not, I direct the audience. Maybe I should avoid doing so. What’s the significance of using latex to sum up your own ideas? I took latex as a preference, because I could easily combine it with hair. The material has supported me to create something that may look organic. Another thing that I like about manipulating latex through stitching is that, when you look at a distance, with its traditional frame, it does resemble antique ornaments which are made from beeswax. If you do come closer, and engage with my sculptures, you would find that they aren’t what they seem. Although your art majorly consumes of latex, they are not intended to be touched, although you might permit when requested. Would you consider it as a representation of humour? Yes, I like dualisms and contradictory situations. It is an idea of which I try to include into my body of work, which is most apparent in my sculptural works and phosphorescent art. This condition of dualism is prevalent either through content or form. When I was sixteen, I touched Manet’s “The Luncheon on the Grass” at the Musee D’orsay. Of course, the guards went nuts. I seem to still remember vividly how the tiny bulges of paint on the canvas felt. Among all senses, it’s probably the sense of touch that let us build the closest relationship with the other person. I might be totally wrong, but I get a sense that you are pulling a connection between living forms, whether it is a human or an animal and their connection with nature. Would you say that such observation on your work is accurate? I just had my recent exhibition with X-IST gallery in Istanbul, which consisted of new works made out of artificial and organic bones. I made skeletons of imaginary animals using chicken bones. Excluding the natural materials which I have sourced, I also used epoxy and polyester if it was necessary. Our relationship with nature is simply everything. I don’t even think it is appropriate to call it a relationship, because it is obvious that we (humans) are neglecting our responsibility by just saying that. Each person is part of a bigger structure, a part of a whole.
Why do you think our memories are so precious, although what we generally witness takes on a sentimental value that does not play importance to other people’s livelihood? Our experiences are unique, and could not be fully understood by another human being. Our identity is shaped by the things we experience, and by our attitudes towards incidents, where our current state keeps changing. It is apparent that our memories become special and unique, but the emotions that they evoke in us are mutual. Eventually, everyone will have a memory of losing someone, and the sorrow felt would become similar. If our emotions were distinct from one person to another, the interaction we have with the world is limited. By the same token, there would be neither art nor literature, or any kind of field that enables us to share.
Have you ever thought of re-working some of your artworks, where after it becomes exhibited, you would morph them into something else … like an overlapped memory? Often would I look back and say “if I were to make it today, I would do it differently, oppose to that way or this way”. Even the thoughts that I wished to materialise go through a transformation in my mind with time. But yes, an overlapped memory is a brilliant idea.
earrings, jacket and belt H&M dress BLESSED ARE THE MEEK
take a beat
earrings H&M jacket GRAHAM & SPENCER (from TIARE) photographer
stylist
dress VELVET (from TIARE) heels GUISEPPE ZANOTTI
jacket FLEA MADONNA dress VELVET tights H&M
jacket FLEA MADONNA jumpsuit BLESSED ARE THE MEEK watch NOOKA boots GUISEPPE ZANOTTI
jacket FLEA MADONNA tshirt BLESSED ARE THE MEEK watch NOOKA gloves H&M pants GRAHAM & SPENCER
all clothing H&M boots GUISEPPE ZANOTTI
/makeup Peggy Tsui /model Ellen Ryan /assistant Hely So
lost in my mind photographer stylist
sunglasses SUPER coat and top H&M pants BLESSED ARE THE MEEK bag PHILIP LIM 3.1
blazer and dress INJURY belt DKNY bag PHILIP LIM 3.1
sunglasses THIERRY LASRY all clothing DKNY clutch H&M
sunglasses THIERRY LASRY turtle neck sweater DKNY top and skirt H&M
dress DKNY
/makeup Peggy Tsui /model Ernesta K @ Mission Models /assistant Hely So
sunglasses THIERRY LASRY dress DKNY coat, boots and bag H&M
illustrator
LAST LOOK
Bieber, Cyrus and Derulo are just some of the celebs slipping on a pair of futuristic Nooka shades, this is their first eyewear collection and it definitely makes a statement! Not to mention they match perfectly with Nookas’s uber techy watch range. We’re loving the round shapes and minimalist feel!