SPRING – SUMMER 2011
Magazine Trendsetter for bakers and pastry chefs
HIGH TEA
A European trend!
Dominique Persoone King of chocolate
Debic summer collection The patisserie trends of this summer
TOUR DE PARIS Patisseries of Paris
Left: Tom van Meulebrouck, Culinary advisor, Debic Right: Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Pastry chef and confectioner, Debic
Even more inspiration! As a hallmark in the world of pastry chefs and confectioners, Debic's aim is to continually inspire you. We go one step further in this respect: with the Debic Magazine. Our enthusiastic advisors Tom van Meulebrouck and Bruno Van Vaerenbergh – with their passion for haute pastry – introduce you to new products, authoritative reports and inspiring applications and techniques. Not only on the creative level, but also from the business perspective. Debic provides you with the tools to optimise your performance. You opt for quality. You therefore also prefer brands that share your passion for cooking. And with culinary advisors such as Tom van Meulebrouck and Bruno Van Vaerenbergh – advisors with daily experience in the kitchen – you have the guarantee of a brand that understands what inspires you!
We wish you many hours' happy reading with the Debic Magazine.
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In this number
High Tea
■ High Tea is a great success. Furthermore, the possibilities are infinite. How can you successfully cater to that trend and delight your customers with delicacies? ■
Chocolate is rock & rolll
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Dominique Persoone demonstrates his contemporary approach to chocolate in the Palace on the Meir in Antwerp. ■
Debic Collection
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Debic presents a number of inspiring creations that you can immediately make use of this summer: Catwalk Vive la Fête Fraisette Arabesque Morango Florida
30 Colophon
The success story of Jacques van Bragt ■
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“Every day is a challenge. Striving for quality and service, day after day.”
■
Tour de Paris
The French capital is also the patisserie capital of Europe. Debic takes you on a tour of the patisseries of Paris.
Publication of FrieslandCampina Professional Grote Baan 34, 3560 Lummen, Belgium Tel.: +32 (0)13 310 310 info.lummen@frieslandcampina.com www.debic.com Editorial board Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Tom van Meulebrouck, Bart-Jeroen Van Overveld, Arianne le Duc
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Recipes Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Bart-Jeroen Van Overveld, Jean-Philippe Darcis Photography Kasper van ’t Hoff, The Chocolate Line, Peter Staes Design and production Force451 Copyright© 2011 Nothing may be copied from this publication without the prior permission of the publisher.
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High Tea
High Tea Originally an evening meal, now a European trend! In the mid-afternoon, we enjoy delicious sweet treats with a nice cup of tea. That, nowadays, is the definition of High Tea. The history of the High Tea is different, however. It was originally intended, in fact, as the evening meal of labourers who, after a long working day, needed to be served food quickly to regain their energy. It was not so much a question of drinking tea but of relieving hunger.
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High Tea
What mainland European hotels and restaurants serve today as High Tea is, in fact, based on the traditional Afternoon Tea. In Great Britain, asking for a High Tea could be problematic. British hotels refer to ‘Tea’ or ‘Cream Tea’ when talking about something that on the continent is now called High Tea. Missed opportunity Sometimes you meet resistance in our sector when you refer to High Tea. Today, people are said to be increasingly doing their own baking at home. This means that the pastry cook does not have to provide a High Tea. But are we referring here to the cause or to the effect? The fact is and remains that customers regularly go to a cafe or restaurant for an afternoon treat. The need therefore clearly exists. A lost opportunity if you don’t take advantage of it! It is very important that you, as a specialist, respect the wishes of your customers and adapt and present your products to meet their need. Place a table in your shop, put an attractive modern tea set on it and have your customers see and taste what constitutes High Tea in your book. Publicising your range to restaurants, domestic and other caterers will most certainly improve the chances of a good turnover on this range. Variation The possibilities for the treats to be served with High Tea are infinite. Mirror present trends in your shopfront display by catering to new consumer demands. Such as the demand for light and airy products. You could, for example, cater to this trend by providing a Light Tea with low-calorie products. Similarly, the current trend for cupcakes could easily be converted into a High Tea concept, by introducing minor variations. The bright colours will give the shelves a cheerful, eye-catching aspect.
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“Latch on to the success of High Tea and cupcakes.”
High Tea Be bold, and present a varied offering in flavour, shape, structure and colour. On this page you can find a summer High Tea which displays this passion: well-known traditional cakes, such as brownies, trendy cupcakes and surprising mini-tarts.
Scones
Brownies
Recipe for 34 scones
Recipe for 1 tray (40 x 60 cm)
Scones 40 g Debic Butter Cake Gold 250 g Quark 230 g flour 20 g mixed baking powder 2 g salt
510 g Debic Butter Cake Gold 300 g dark chocolate 300 g egg yolks 345 g brown sugar 345 g sugar 270 g egg white 285 g flour 15 g mixed baking powder 225 g almond flakes 150 g dark chocolate 30 g cocoa powder
Method Knead a soft dough from all the ingredients. Leave for 30 minutes and then roll into a thickness of 1 cm. Use a Ø4 cm cutter to cut out the scones. Brush with egg. Bake for 10 minutes at 170 °C. Tip: as a variation on the standard scones, after brushing the tops with egg you could press on hazelnut chips, almond powder or coloured grated coconut.
Ganache 600 ml Debic Cream 40% 600 g Debic Butter Crème 40 g dark chocolate Method Melt the Debic Butter Cake Gold on a low heat and dissolve the 300 g dark chocolate into it. Beat the egg yolks with the brown sugar. Beat the egg white with the sugar. Sift the flour together with the mixed baking powder and the cocoa powder. Add the toasted almond flakes. Mix and fold everything and place the mixture in a baking dish of 40 x 60 cm. Bake for 25 minutes at 170 °C. Allow to cool. Weigh out the ingredients for the ganache. Heat the Debic Cream 40%. Mix all the ingredients into a homogeneous mass. Cool. Assembly Cut into blocks of 3 x 3 cm. Squeeze the ganache on top (Saint-Honoré nozzle no.5) and decorate with the almond flakes.
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High Tea
Cupcakes Natural almond cake 1000 g Debic Dairy Butter Constant 900 g sugar 16 eggs 600 g flour 250 g almond powder 50 g baking powder
Passion fruit cream 10 g gelatine powder 50 ml cold water 350 g French pastry cream 200 g passion fruit purée 2 g yellow food colourant 650 ml Debic Cream 35%
Chocolate cake 1000 g Debic Dairy Butter Constant 1000 g dark chocolate 66% 1000 g sugar 1000 g eggs 500 g flour 50 g baking powder
Raspberry cream 10 g gelatine powder 50 ml cold water 350 g French pastry cream 200 g raspberry purée 2 g red food colourant 750 ml Debic Cream 35%
Pistachio cream 10 g gelatine powder 350 g French pastry cream 100 g pistachio paste 2 g green food colourant 650 ml Debic Cream 35% 50 g sugar
Chocolate cream 150 g egg yolk 150 g sugar 50 ml water 300 g dark chocolate 54% 600 ml Debic Cream 35%
Method Natural almond cake Whisk the Debic Dairy Butter Constant until soft. Beat the eggs with the sugar until frothy. Mix the baking powder with the almond powder and flour and then, using a spatula, gently fold it over on itself. Spoon into paper baking cups and bake in a moderate oven: 175 °C. Chocolate cake Whisk the Debic Dairy Butter Constant until soft. Beat the eggs and sugar until frothy. Add tempered chocolate and mix carefully. Sift together the baking powder and the flour and, using a spatula, gently fold it over on itself. Spoon the mixture into paper baking cups and bake in a moderate oven: 175 °C. Pistachio cream Stir the French pastry cream with the pistachio paste and green food colourant until it is a smooth mixture. Add the soaked gelatine and stir well to dissolve. Beat the Debic Cream 35% lightly with the sugar and, using the spatula, fold it into the mixture. Passion fruit cream Stir the French pastry cream with the passion fruit purée and yellow food colourant to form a smooth mixture. Dissolve the gelatine and mix with the other ingre-dients. Use the spatula to fold it into the semi-beaten Debic Cream 35%. Raspberry cream Mix the gelatine powder with the water. Mix the French pastry cream with the raspberry purée and red food colourant into a smooth mixture. Dissolve the gelatine and mix with the other ingredients. Using the spatula, fold it into the semi-beaten Debic Cream 35%. Chocolate cream Heat the sugar and water to 121 °C and then add the beaten egg yolk. Continue to beat lightly until the mixture has cooled. Add the melted chocolate and the lightly beaten Debic Cream 35%. Assembly Cool the cupcakes and pipe the mousses on as soon as these begin to solidify. Finish according to your wishes with flowers, a logo and splitters.
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Report
Chocolate is rock & roll Dominique Persoone – king of chocolate
Report
Identikit Dominique Persoone Born: in 1968, at Bruges Training: bakery training Ter Groene Poorte, Bruges Career: Pierre Hermé & Pascal Brunstein
Belgium has a long tradition of chocolate, bonbons and pralines. With his rebellious nature, Dominique Persoone has succeeded, where others failed, to push back this traditional frontier. Today he is viewed as a pioneer in the field of chocolate. He is the brains behind bonbons filled with oysters, chillies or rainwater. His creativity and love for his profession know no bounds. “I live for chocolate. It is my passion and it is in my blood. Chocolate is rock and roll.” A chocolate shop in a luxury palace which, in times past, housed Napoleon and the Princes of Orange: that's something Dominique Persoone never envisaged, not even in his wildest dreams. After much deliberation, Antwerp city council selected his business plan for the building, in preference to many other plans. The sober style of his business on the Meir (the main shopping street) forms an attractive contrast with the high ceilings and murals that betray the royal history of the premises. The workshop is housed in what was once Napoleon's kitchen. Both the kitchen and the original cooking-range have been restored to their former glory. The absolute eyecatcher in this section is the C-structure that is inlaid with millions of Swarovski crystals. Various colours are projected onto the walls. This visual display, in combination with smells and sounds, stimulates the senses to create a perfect taste sensation.
The Chocolate Line, Antwerp Paleis op de Meir 50, Antwerp, Belgium Tel.: +32 (0)3 206 20 30 www.thechocolateline.be
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Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory In our view, the contemporary collection of pralines is just as majestic and imposing as the shop in which they are displayed. Dominique Persoone: “I work exclusively with the best ingredients and sourced chocolate. I do not consider myself an entrepreneur, but rather as the person who is responsible for the bonbon department in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory in Roald Dahl's book. Chocolate is so much more than the Jamaica rum bean that my grandmother used to give me. I feel personally responsible for ensuring that the art of chocolate-making does not become a humdrum affair.” He is well on the way to keeping his promise. In 2004, his shop ‘The Chocolate Line’ earned a mention in the Michelin guide. In 2009 his book ‘Cacoa, the chocolate route’ won the prestigious 'Gourmand Cookbook Award' for the best chocolate book in the world.
Gastronomic know-how with guts Dominique dares to deviate from the traditional path, just like a rebel. He searches for the limits and couples traditional expertise with his limitless creativity. His rebellious nature and unconventional approach to chocolate is the result of the gastronomic knowledge that Dominique has acquired in the past. He earned his pocket money in the Michelin star restaurant of the casino in Middelkerke, that was managed by his father. A solid basis was thus laid for his studies at the hotel school 'Ter Groene Poorte' in Bruges. As a cook, Dominique had his first culinary experiences in various star establishments in France. “The fact that the techniques and products in the kitchen are more diverse than in the world of chocolate has helped me enormously on the creative level. The precision and the techniques behind making chocolate intrigued me and I decided to broaden my knowledge by working with famous patissiers such as Pascal Brunstein and Pierre Hermé.” In 1992, Dominique and his wife Fabienne started a traditional, handmade confectionery shop in the centre of Bruges. Recently, he opened a second establishment in the Palace on the Meir.
“I would even go so far as to propose that the training for bakers, butchers and cooks be included in a single course.” Trends of the future The fruits of the ‘Theobroma cacao’ – the food of the gods – are in good hands with him. He likes a joke but is full of passion when he talks about chocolate. Dominique: “A lot still has to be improved in the culinary world but it all starts with a sound basis. I would even go so far as to propose that the training for bakers, butchers and cooks be included in a single course. In this way, students would acquire far more basic knowledge of the different disciplines, and after that they would be able to specialise.” Besides the requisite know-how, everything stands or falls with the quality of the raw materials. “When I was writing my book, I went on an expedition in Mexico. What I saw there was truly incredible. Chocolate confectioners think that there are only three different cacoa beans in the world, i.e. Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario. In the jungle we came to the conclusion that many more varieties and their descendents exist. That naturally affords unprecedented possibilities for me, as a chocolate confectioner, but present-day production is still based on methods from the prehistoric period.
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Report
“We need to give our guests many sensations, otherwise we can no longer explain why our products are so expensive.” We need to support the farmers with scientific knowledge and technical assistance. This can only improve the quality of the chocolate.” This problem not only occurs deep in the jungle, he goes on. “What about the wonderful products found in our own region? There is still so much to be discovered in our own backyard. Here, we need to be more conscious and aware of how we treat natural produce.”
*Bernard Lahousse; the brain behind www.foodpairing.be; project manager of the Flemish Primitives and scientific director of Sense for Taste
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Experiment with theobromine In the field of taste perception, Dominique believes that smell and colour can give important insights. “We need to give our guests many sensations, otherwise we can no longer explain why our products are so expensive.” A good if extreme example is the praline that he developed for St. Valentine’s Day with an overdose of theobromine. It is the active ingredient of chocolate that conduces to the sensation of happiness. “In the case of large quantities of this substance, the body, as it were, erects a barricade. Thanks to the scientific knowledge of Bernard Lahousse* we were able to lift the barricade. What happened then: my legs started to shake like crazy!” Unfortunately, the experiment did not get the approval of the public health assessment committee, and was not repeated. On the next page are some characteristic pralines from the 'The Chocolate Line' range.
Apero Apero is Dominique’s favourite choc-tail, with a good dash of vodka, completely in balance with the dark ganache, on a base of Costa Rica chocolate and the fruity acids of passion fruit and lemon. The praline is covered with a layer of 'blanc intense' white chocolate.
Cabernet Sauvignon The Cabernet Sauvignon bonbon was created for the Oud Sluis restaurant (3 Michelin stars) of Sergio Herman. This praline comprises a caramel of Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar and a praline base of pine nut seeds. In the meantime, Dominique has developed a new innovative bonbon for his colleague and friend. The new creation is composed of a golden ball filled with yuzu cream and a base filled with a caramel of rice vinegar, panache from Ecuador with soya and a praline base of sesame seeds and sansho peppers.
Italian Javanais A classic javanais is composed of an almond biscuit enriched with marzipan, a chocolate ganache and a butter cream with coffee. Dominique gives his own twist to this and mixes the marzipan with black olives. He enriches the dark ganache with sun-dried tomatoes. Using the butter cream, he makes a white chocolate ganache enriched with fresh basil. By cooking the basil in the cream and mixing it with the chocolate and butter, the basil will not oxidise and will retain its fresh green colour. A sublime flavour is the result of this careful creation.
Saké A praline developed with the flavour of saké proved easier said than done. Dominique looked for a long time for the right saké for the bonbon. He was not satisfied with the flavour. Finally, he hit upon a residue of the production process, the sakekasu. It is comparable to the grape must that is a residue of winemaking and imparts a very rich flavour to the bitter ganache with which the praline is filled.
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Debic Collection
Fashion as an ingredient for the summer collection! This year the summer collection has a very special ingredient. Just like the world of fashion, Debic too has let itself be inspired by the cheerful colours, whimsical shapes and peculiar lines of the summer season. Just take a look at Catwalk and Arabesque. Fruit is the key component, used to good effect to decorate tarts as well as glasses. Vive la Fête is the answer to the all-too-traditional, rectangular, flat tarts with a predictable fruit decoration. A solution that is composed of classic round biscuits with a delicious layer of crème brulée and decorated around the sides. Consequently, the tarts not only look festive, they also look authentic. They are easy to stack on a buffet, even for modest parties of twenty to thirty people. Good luck!
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Catwalk
A brief glance at a garden party: flowers, hats and moss Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry with sesame seeds
Ingredients
Stir the egg yolk and the sugar until frothy, do not beat. Knead the butter until soft. Sift together the flour and the baking powder and mix with the sesame seeds. Add and knead to form a smooth dough. Store in a cool place, in plastic foil. Roll out to 4 mm in thickness and bake in circles, 20 cm in diameter (185 °C for ± 15 minutes).
6 tarts Ø20 cm
Lemon jam Wash the Buddha fingers and grate the required amount into the jelly. Stir until smooth.
Coconut crèmeux Cut the lemon grass and add to the tepid coconut purée. Infuse for 2 hours. Mix the gelatine powder with water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Stir the egg yolk with the sugar until it foams, then heat with the sieved coconut purée and stir at 85 °C. Add the soaked gelatine solution and mix thoroughly. Pour onto the white chocolate and emulsify with the mixer. After sufficient cooling, fold in the beaten Debic Cream 35% with a spatula.
Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry with sesame seeds 300 540 650 840 50 100
g egg yolk g sugar g Debic Butter Cake Gold g flour g baking powder g sesame seeds
Lemon jam 400 g finishing jelly 100 g grated Buddha fingers
Mango mousse
Coconut crèmeux
Mix the gelatine powder with water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Heat a small portion of the purée with the gelatine and mix with the remaining mango purée. Fold in the beaten Debic Cream 35% with a spatula.
Fill the half spheres (Ø16 cm) with coconut crèmeux, cover with a layer of biscuits and then place in the freezer. Once solid, remove from the mould and store. Next, line these half spheres with the mango mousse then press into the hard coconut interiors. Freeze them.
750 g coconut purèe 2 lemon grass stalks 200 g egg yolk 150 g sugar 500 g white chocolate 15 g gelatine powder 80 ml water 500 ml Debic Cream 35%
Finish
Mango mousse
Remove the balls and glaze these with green tinted, neutral jelly. Spread a thin layer of lemon jam on a base of Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry and place the glazed balls on top. Decorate with marzipan flowers.
750 20 100 1
Assembly
g mango purée g gelatine powder ml water L Debic Cream 35%
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Debic Collection
Ingredients
Genoise biscuit
8 tarts for 6 people
Beat the egg and sugar, hot and cold, into a ribbon (± 15 minutes). Sift together the almond powder and the flour and then fold them into the mixture with a spatula. Pour into rings and bake (185 °C for 20 minutes).
Genoise biscuit 500 250 100 300 5
g g g g g
egg sugar almond broyage 50% flour baking powder
Vanilla suprême 250 ml milk 250 ml Debic Prima Blanca 1 Tahitian vanilla pod 120 g egg yolk 125 g sugar 14 g gelatine powder 75 ml water 500 ml Debic Prima Blanca
Vanilla syrup 1 L 850 g 1 3
water sugar vanilla pod lemon grass stalks
Red jelly balls 350 50 50 2
g raspberry purée ml lemon juice g neutral jelly (mirroir) g gold powder
Jelly 300 g sugar syrup 300 ml water 8 g Kappa (Texturas)
Finish 2.5 L Debic Prima Blanca 250 g sugar
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Vanilla suprême Mix the gelatine powder with the water. Beat the egg yolk with the sugar and 1/3 of the liquid into a frothy mass. In the meantime, heat the rest of the liquid with the split vanilla pod until near boiling point, add to the rest and stir at 85 °C. Mix and pass through a sieve. Add the gelatine mixture and cool to 20 °C. Add 500 ml cream, mix thoroughly and pour it onto a Silpat©. Freeze.
Vanilla syrup Scrape the vanilla pith onto the sugar. Add water and bring slowly to the boil. Cool and store.
Red jelly balls Stir in tepid water, mix, pour into silicon moulds and then put them in the freezer. When completely solid, pass the half balls through the jelly using a safety pin and place them on the tart.
Jelly Stir in tepid water and mix. Incorporate at 50 °C.
Assembly Slice the genoise biscuit in half and saturate with vanilla syrup. Cover the bottommost layer with beaten Debic Prima Blanca (+ 10% sugar). Place on top of this a frozen layer of vanilla suprême. Spread on a second layer of Debic Prima Blanca and then cover with the second half of the genoise biscuit. Mask.
Finish Squirt thick, smooth balls along the side of the tart and, using a palette knife, smooth these downwards. Accentuate the side with a layer of white decoration marzipan. Decorate with red fruits.
Vive la FĂŞte Festive spring cake, fresh whipped cream, red fruits and vanilla suprĂŞme
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Debic Collection
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Fraisette
A French classic behind glass
Pistachio mousseline
Ingredients
Stir the French pastry cream until smooth and then mix with the pistachio paste. Mix in the soft Debic Butter Crème. Add enough Kirsch to get the right flavour.
for 12 glasses
Kirsch syrup Mix and store in a cool place.
Almond biscuit Beat the egg yolk and the 115 g sugar to a ribbon. Beat the egg white and the 90 g sugar until stiff. Mix the two. With a spatula, fold in the sifted flour and almond powder and stir in the melted Debic Butter Crème. Spread evenly on a 60 x 40 baking dish. Bake at 190 °C for ± 8 minutes.
Pistachio mousseline 1000 g French pastry cream 15 g pistachio paste 500 g Debic Butter Crème 20 ml Kirsch 48%
Kirsch syrup 250 ml syrup 50 g strawberry purée 20 ml Kirsch 48%
Assembly Saturate a layer of almond biscuit with the Kirsch syrup and place at the bottom of a glass. Cover the sides of the glass with the half strawberries. Squirt a ball of pistachio mousseline in the middle. Press on a layer of almond biscuit. Saturate with the Kirsch syrup.
Finish Squirt on a generous amount of sugared Debic Cream 40%. Decorate with pieces of strawberry and pistachio. Suggestion: a pipette with Kirsch syrup adds a playful touch to the dessert glass.
Almond biscuit 220 115 175 90 145 90 90
g egg yolk g sugar g egg white g sugar g almond powder g flour g Debic Butter Crème
Tip: In general, the use of alcohol in pastries and cakes has declined slightly in recent years. For some recipes, such as this mousseline crème, the indicated quantity of Kirsch is necessary in order to give an optimal taste to the recipe.
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Debic Collection
Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry with sesame seeds, almond mousse, and cream of Buddha fingers
Buddha’s hand
Ingredients
Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry with sesame seeds
1 mould 60 x 40 cm
Stir the egg yolk and the sugar until frothy, do not beat. Knead with the soft butter. Sift together the flour and the baking powder and mix with the sesame seeds. Add and knead to form a smooth dough. Store in a cool place, in plastic foil. Roll out to 4 mm thickness and then bake on a tray. 185 °C for ± 15 minutes.
Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry with sesame seeds 300 540 650 840 50 100
g egg yolk g sugar g Debic Butter Cake Gold g flour g baking powder g sesame seeds
Buddha cream Grate the Buddha fingers into the warm Debic Natop with the glucose. Infuse for 2 hours. Heat through again and then pour the mixture through a pointed sieve onto the white chocolate. Immediately add the freshly grated lime and the soaked gelatine. Emulsify to a smooth cream. Divide immediately into two equal halves and allow to cool.
Buddha cream
Buddha mousse
600 ml Debic Natop 150 g grated Buddha fingers 23 g gelatine 2 limes 35 g glucose 1000 g white chocolate
Stir the Buddha cream until smooth and stir in the beaten Debic Natop.
Buddha mousse
Caramelised pine nuts
800 g Buddha cream 650 ml beaten Debic Natop
Boil the water with the sugar to 121 °C. Add the pine nuts and continue to stir until the nuts crystallise. Pour onto a Silpat© and dry in the oven at 150 °C for ± 15 minutes.
Almond mousse
Assembly
300 200 500 15 650
Rub a very thin layer of soft butter onto a decorative sheet. Allow briefly to solidify and then place a mould (or tray) on top. Pour in the almond mousse and freeze. Pour half of the Buddha cream onto the frozen almond mousse and then cover with a layer of biscuit. Add drops of lemon syrup/liqueur, if desired. Pour the Buddha mousse in the mould and smooth it out. Spread the pine nuts evenly and cover with the Breton-style crumbly sweet pastry.
g marzipan 50/50 ml milk ml Debic Natop g gelatine ml Debic Natop
Caramelised pine nuts 60 ml water 175 g sugar 375 g pine nuts
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Almond mousse Mix the marzipan with the warm milk and the Debic Natop. Add the soaked gelatine and stir well to dissolve. Beat the Debic Natop and fold in the cooled almond mixture with a spatula.
Finish Remove from the mould and cover with a neutral jelly. Slice as wished and decorate according to the house style.
Arabesque
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Debic Collection
Morango Crumbly sweet pastry, pistachio frangipane, mint-basil cream and fresh strawberries
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Crumbly sweet pastry
Ingredients
Mix the soft Debic Croissant Butter with the castor sugar and hazelnut powder, to form a homogeneous mass. Gradually knead in the eggs and egg yolk. Add the flour to the salt and knead into a consistent dough.
6 tarts Ă˜18 cm
Pistachio frangipane Stir the Debic Dairy Butter Constant until smooth and then add the pistachio paste and the sugar. Mix in the almond powder and grated coconut. Add the eggs (at room temperature) systematically. Finally, add the flour and the starch and mix together.
Crumbly sweet pastry 1000 g Debic Croissant Butter 600 g castor sugar 250 g hazelnut powder 165 g egg 32 g egg yolk 1650 g flour 10 g salt
Mint-basil cream Mix some of the French pastry cream with fresh herbs. Add the soaked gelatine and stir well to dissolve. Stir in the rest of the French pastry cream and then, with a spatula, fold the lightly beaten Debic Duo into the cream mixture.
Assembly Place a layer of pistachio frangipane into the crumbly sweet pastry moulds. Bake in an oven at 190 °C for 15 minutes. Cool and place a layer of mint-basil cream on top. Accentuate the sides with grated coconut.
Pistachio frangipane 500 75 400 400 100 500 50 50
g Debic Dairy Butter Constant g pistachio paste g sugar g almond powder g ground coconut g egg g flour g maize starch
Finish Decorate liberally with fresh strawberries, powder with castor sugar and some tufts of egg white.
Mint-basil cream 1000 g French pastry cream 8 g gelatine 10 g fresh mint 10 g fresh basil 350 ml Debic Duo
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Debic Collection
Florida Refreshing, contemporary and accessible
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Ingredients
Crumbly sweet pastry
6 tarts Ă˜16 cm
Mix together the butter, castor sugar and hazelnut powder until soft. Systematically knead in the eggs and egg yolk. Knead with the flour briefly. Roll out and cover the baking rings. Bake at 180 °C.
Crumbly sweet pastry 900 g Debic Croissant Butter 540 g castor sugar 240 g hazelnut powder 210 g egg yolk 150 g egg 1500 g flour
Coconut frangipane Mix the butter with the sugar and grated coconut until soft. Gradually introduce the eggs. Knead in the flour with the grated coconut and maize starch. Stir in the liquid cream.
Coconut cream Bring to the boil in the same way as for French pastry cream.
Coconut frangipane 500 360 150 200 500 50 50 100
g Debic Dairy Butter Constant g castor sugar g grated coconut g almond powder g egg g flour g maize starch ml Debic Cream 40%
Assembly Pierce the crumbly sweet pastry bases then cover them with a layer of coconut frangipane. Bake in a moderate oven at 180 °C. When cool, spread a layer of coconut cream on top. Decorate liberally with citrus fruit (grapefruit, oranges and pineapples).
Finish Cover the fresh fruit with the finishing jelly.
Coconut cream 750 250 100 220 200
ml milk ml coconut milk (tin) g custard powder g sugar g egg
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The success story of...
The success story of‌
Jacques van Bragt
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At the bakery magazine, we have been looking for pastry cooks and confectioners ready to place their cards on the table and allow us to take a look. Why choose this concept, this style or location? We are not necessarily looking for big names from the cities, but pure, enthusiastic professionals whose unique concept and style could be successful anywhere in Europe. Today the focus is on Geldrop in the Netherlands. A classically built provincial town in the south of the Netherlands with just under 30,000 inhabitants. Here, people buy bread at the supermarket, vegetables at the weekly market, but top-quality tarts and cakes from the 'patissier'. Why?
Identikit Jacques van Bragt Born in: 1962 Training: ROC Eindhoven, baker and pastry cook; PIVA, Antwerp; Guido Jans, Tienen
Jacques van Bragt is among the top patissiers in the Netherlands and was, for many years, a member of the Dutch Patisserie Team as well as laureate at the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie in 1993 and 1995. In the south of Geldrop, Jacques has a 'boutique' where, every day, he motivates and inspires his team of pastry cooks with his knowledge and enthusiasm. Debic convinced him to share his success story with the readers of this magazine. What is the current favourite in the shop? Jacques: “The choco-cerise tart. A simple composition yet with rich and tasty ingredients. A biscuit with Montélimar nougat combines perfectly with a compote of cherries, flavoured with star aniseed, cinnamon and vanilla. The chocolate mousse has a base of pure dark Caribbean chocolate.” How did it all begin? Jacques: “When I was young it was not customary to go and work for the major producers. After my training, I gained my knowledge and experience in my parents' business. My parents built up this business themselves and I gradually took over, with a transfer of shares spread over 5 years.”
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The success story of...
No bread but pastries and cakes... Jacques: “That's mainly down to the system of training institutes in the Netherlands. You select the modules that are closest to what you want to do, in my case that was clearly patisserie. My parents had already made that clear choice for their business. Today, we have added more viennoiseries (croissants, brioches, biscuits…) to our range. We have customers that come from beyond Geldrop; they come here specifically for our selection. After 44 years in the same spot, people come here above all for the pastries and cakes.” How do you determine the cost price? Jacques: “We do not have a detailed price calculation for each end product but we do have quite a clear view on it. Sometimes we feel we have to change the prices because certain articles sell extremely well… there is perhaps something slightly suspicious here, as it is a clear signal from the customer that a certain product is incredibly good, i.e. it offers the consumer great value for money. I can certainly say that a patisserie can be profitable. We never throw together tastes, instead we carefully combine flavours and textures. And ensure that it is recognisable.” Have you noted a change in buying behaviour? Jacques: “People are opting less, these days, for the luxury cakes. There is a clear shift towards the classic cakes. The puff pastry cakes are still an important item, with a good profit margin, that sell well.” How do you see the future? Jacques: “We are trying to gradually change and adapt the range. We try to make products that are different from what the mass producers are offering. They taste different in any case but I also want to offer a different image, more deluxe packaging, customer advice and added value. Often, we stick too long to the same products. But ultimately, the customers buy what they are used to; in restaurants I see more changes to the menu.” And your raw material and purchasing policy? Jacques: “Price is not always a criterion. Perhaps the profit margin could be better but that does not always benefit the product or the company. I place above everything my image or my personal feeling that I'm using the best raw materials which I wholeheartedly believe in.”
“Every day is a challenge, not only in matters of taste but, in particular, providing quality and service for our customers! Striving for the best, day after day.”
You do not say no to frozen products. Jacques: “In the Netherlands, it is customary to have an open freezer with packaged cakes on offer. For our company, that accounts for 25% of the turnover. Customers buy several tarts at the same time so that they don’t have to come here every day or every week. It sounds strange perhaps, but as long as your communication is in order, you come over as credible. For example, entremets (cream sweets) must be frozen because otherwise you cannot pour chocolate on them or take them out of the mould.”
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What errors, in your opinion, do beginners make? Jacques: “You should not make only beautiful or luxury tarts. Certainly when taking over a business, you must not alienate customers by making drastic changes to the range. Be careful with your investments. Baking equipment and ingredients are expensive and can take a big chunk out of your turnover. A few years ago we suffered a loss of income due to several bankruptcies and the restructuring of two large factories in our area, plus roadworks: the dread of every shopkeeper. This easily has a major impact in a small town.” Training company of the year? Jacques: “It's the schools and the trainees who nominate you and put you forward for the title of 'Practical Training Company of the Year' where you compete with furniture makers, painters and other trades. It is a very welcome recognition for the work we are doing. You have to learn to get on with young people. Times change. Each generation is different. You cannot expect trainees to spend hours polishing and cleaning. As far as possible, I allow them to participate in the day-to-day tasks that are within their capacity. You must ensure that they continue to be positive. That is the essence of the matter.”
Jacques van Bragt Langestraat 44, Geldrop, the Netherlands Tel.: +31 (0)40 285 55 36 www.jacquesvanbragt.nl
“It's the schools and the trainees who nominate you and put you forward for the title ' Practical Training Company of the Year'.”
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Paris is not only the leading city of fashion, it still plays a key role in 'haute gastronomie'. Debic has done a little research and now introduces you to a selection of temples to sweetness.
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Tour de Paris
Patisseries of Paris
TOUR
The reputation of Paris as the city of patisserie cannot be underestimated. The French capital has had this excellent reputation for many years now. Famous producers such as Fauchon and Ladurée, that represented the previous generation of bakers and pastry cooks, are still a source of genuine inspiration today. This can be seen in the fresh brigade of international trainees that arrive here each year. It is, in particular, the younger generation of inspired patissiers, including top chefs with a high media presence, that are unleashing an unprecedented sweet wave in Paris.
de
PARIS
Debic took a trip around the City of Light and now offers you a taste of youthful exuberance and classic sweet delicacies. We will present to you the top patisseries of Paris.
Naturally, this list of chart-toppers is far from complete. You can use them as a guiding thread, but don’t be deterred from making your own journey of discovery in the city of sweets.
The classic tour of Place de la Madeleine to the Champs-Elysées continues to be a must for any enthusiastic sweet tooth. Less well known, but at the very least worth a metro journey are our favourites: Laurent Dûchene, Oaki, Marletti and Pain de Sucre.
Enjoy yourself and indulge!
How do I consult this guide? On page 35 you can find the patisseries we visited (along with their identikit) on the street map of Paris. Address, website and closest metro station are mentioned each time.
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Tour de Paris Xxxxx
1 Carl Marletti
51 Rue Censier 5e Arrondissement Metro: Censier Daubenton Philosophy: Jewellery shop of pastries, humour and passion Specialities: Lily Valley, best lemon tart in Paris
30 Place de la Madeleine 8e Arrondissement Metro: Madeleine Philosophy: made in F* Specialities: éclair 'La Joconde' 1st prize food design, luxury 'scintillants' choux pastries
www.carlmarletti.com
www.fauchon.com
3 Laurent Duchêne
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2 Fauchon
4 Philippe Conticini
2 Rue Wurtz 13e Arrondissement Metro: Glaciere Philosophy: local boutique Specialities: leavened bread, pâte de fruits, le Mikado, l’Equinoxe
93 Rue du Bac 7e Arrondissement Metro: Rue Du Bac Specialities: Tarte Tatin
www.laurent-duchene.com
www.lapatisseriedesreves.com
5 Gerard Mulot
6 La Grande Epicerie de Paris
76 Rue de Seine 6e Arrondissement Metro: Odeon
Le Bon Marché 38 Rue de Sèvres 7e Arrondissement Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
www.gerard-mulot.com
www.lagrandeepicerie.fr
7 Sadaharu Aoki
A. Boutique Vaugirard 35 Rue de Vaugirard 6e Arrondissement Metro: Rennes B. 56 Boulevard Port Royal 5e Arrondissement Metro: Les Gobelins www.sadaharuaokiparis.com
8 Pierre Hermé
A. 72 Rue Bonaparte 6e Arrondissement Metro: Saint Sulpice B. 185 Rue de Vaugirard 15e Arrondissement Metro: Pasteur www.pierreherme.com
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Tour de Paris Xxxxx
9 Ladurée
10 Pain De Sucre
75 Avenue des Champs-Elysées 8e Arrondissement Metro: George V Philosophy: A gastronomic temple on the world’s most beautiful avenue Specialities: Le Savarin, Le Kiss, Saint Honoré
14 Rue Rambuteau 3e Arrondissement Metro: Rambuteau
www.laduree.fr www.patisseriepaindesucre.com
11 Des Gateaux & Du Pain
63 Boulevard Pasteur 15e Arrondissement Metro: Pasteur
www.desgateauxetdupain.com
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TOUR
de
PARIS
1
Carl Marletti
2
3
Laurent Duchêne
4
Philippe Conticini
5
Gerard Mulot
6
La Grande Epicerie de Paris
Fauchon
7A Sadaharu
Aoki
7B Sadaharu
Aoki
8A
Pierre Hermé
8B
Pierre Hermé
9
10
11 Des
Ladurée Pain De Sucre Gateaux & Du Pain
Sacre-Coeur 17ème
Gare du Nord
Arc de Triomphe
8ème La Madeleine
George v
M
2
Champs-Elysées
9
9ème 10ème
M Madeleine 2ème
Rambuteau Louvre
M
3ème
10
Rue Du Bac
M
Tour Eiffel 7ème
Pasteur
4 6
M M
M 8A 6ème
5
M
Saint Sulpice SÈvres Babylone
M
Odeon
7A
Pantheon
Rennes
15ème
M
8B
5ème
Pasteur
11
M
1
Tour Montparnasse
14ème
7B
M
Censier Daubenton Les Gobelins
M Glaciere
13ème
3
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As a confectioner or pastry chef who is looking for affordable top quality, it goes without saying that you make use of Debic dairy products. We would like to go one step further, however. We wish to inspire you as a professional and support you as an entrepreneur, so that your business becomes more profitable.
Keep in touch, go to
www.debic.com
When talents are combined.