SPRING – SUMMER 2012
MAGAZINE TASTY TIPS FOR BAKERS AND PASTRY CHEFS
The success story of the Oonk Bakery The balance between passion for baking and commercial insight
Bavarois and mousse The technique behind a perfect end result
Julien Alvarez Top creations by the patisserie world champion
In this issue
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16 ■
The success story of Oonk
4
He sees too many of his collegues think and act from the heart. Marc Oonk says that cost efficiency is above all a question of the right choices 26 ■
Debic Collection
8
A summer collection full of flavours, colours, textures and shapes. A piece of cake with the taste of the Italian spring! ■
I Love Technics
16
Tips for binding bavarois and mousse, giving sufficient stability for the freezer. ■
Top creations of Julien Alvarez
22
Sigip Rimini
Published by Friesland Campina Professional Grote Baan 34, 3560 Lummen, Belgium Tel.: +32 (0)13 310 310 info.lummen@frieslandcampina.com debic@debic.dk info.creteil@frieslandcampina.com elcastillodebic@elcastillodebic.com info.koeln@frieslandcampina.com fernando.ribeiro@unifineiberia.com info.milano@frieslandcampina.com fredrik.salevik@debic.se info.nuenen@frieslandcampina.com info.warszawa@frieslandcampina.com www.debic.com Editorial team Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Tom van Meulebrouck, Kurt Boodts, Bart-Jeroen Van Overveld, Alessia Brambilla.
The patisserie world champion talks about the secrets of the trade. “A tasty product also has to look good!” ■
Colophon
Recipes Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Bart-Jeroen Van Overveld, Marc Oonk, Dennis Stans, Julien Alvarez
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The key trends of the 2012 patisserie and ice cream fair. The coffee corner in the baker’s shop is ever more popular.
Photography Kasper van ’t Hoff Design and production Force451 Copyright© 2012 Contents from this publication may not be copied without the prior permission of the publisher.
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Left: Tom van Meulebrouck, Culinary Advisor, Debic Right: Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Pastry Chef, Debic
Creative craftsmanship and commercial creativity, two pillars that complement each other More than ever, the consumer is on the lookout for authentic tastes and smells. He wants to go back to the essence and purity of products. To use real chocolate, cream, vanilla, nuts, butter,….in the tastiest cakes, pastries and confections. For a long time, consciously or not, pastry chefs have been ambassadors of authentic tastes and ingredients. Influenced by a profusion of TV programmes, cookbooks and magazines, the consumer has come to understand that the tasty pastries and cakes that he enjoys are the result of passionate and creative craftsmanship. A creativity that is enhanced by professional organisations, trade fairs, dedicated workshops and colleagues. Debic wants to make its own creative contribution and inspire you through its Debic collection (pages 8-15). Commercial creativity complements creative craftsmanship and can reinforce the success of your business. That is why we present you with two remarkable reports: the success story of a patisserie in the Netherlands and the Apéritivo moment in Milan. As an extra, we give you an exclusive recipe of the patisserie world champion, Julien Alvarez. We wish you a summer full of success stories! The Debic team
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Visit & Create
“ Each morning, take a look at the shop through the eyes of your customers.”
The Oonk success story: a perfect balance between passion for patisserie, the commercial insight of an entrepreneur and focusing on the customer.
Marc Oonk’s business card says Patisserie-Chocolaterie-Bakery-Lunch Room. It quickly becomes clear that these are not empty words. Each arm of the business is firmly underpinned and operates independently in the internal Oonk circuit. Marc Oonk is an entrepreneur with a sharp and clear vision: try to make everything yourself, provided that the total production is more profitable than buying a quality product. We jotted this down – together with many other striking remarks - during our visit to the bakery-lunch room.
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Location “By constantly having your feelers out, you know what’s going on around you, when premises become available and whether the local authority is planning reorganisations. By thinking and acting in this way, we have been able to open a subsidiary in this location. It is seen as modern by currentl standards, but I consciously extend our style and line into everything we communicate. Over time a logo has to become a brand name. This means you must devote time to it. It is used on cake boxes, chocolate packaging, workwear, sponsorship and TV adverts.”
Identikit
Make choices and you will stay in profit
Marc Oonk: Born: 1967, Enschede, the Netherlands De Wetstraat 27 7551 GA Hengelo www.oonk.nl Manager and owner of: 5 branches Bakery training: MTS Wageningen Business course Internship: Huize Van Wely, Piet Booij
“Productivity is probably the most important link in our entire process. Only by objectively tracking the product from A to Z can we guarantee the quality. I would advise all neo pastry chefs to start with a limited but high-quality basic range and to make a thorough costbenefit analysis before they go further. I still see many colleagues who think and act too much from the heart. That’s not always the right way in business. Do what you’re good at, make choices, and you will stay in profit! Bought cake bases are fine if you can’t produce them cheaper yourself. If they are top quality and if you can personally give an added value.”
Import the know-how “We didn’t start making pralines from day one, either. It wasn’t worth producing them ourselves until we opened our third branch and we had some reliable external customers. The fact that Dennis Stans created the most delicious chocolate praline in the Netherlands in 2009 was a major boost not only for him but also for the firm. He is now in charge of the chocolaterie.”
Specialisation throughout the chain “Alone you are nothing. In a one-man business, you have to be able to do everything. When you grow, your employees have to grow with you. Because we now have several branches and one central production site, it is my job to place the right mix of people in the right workplace and to give them responsibility. 5
Visit & Create
Each unit of the business is autonomous, each one deducts the purchase price from the sale of the goods produced and calculates the corresponding profit margin. This means that the shop buys from the production unit. The ‘Oonk system’ consists of providing the finish for the products delivered by our production unit. Each branch finishes, in house, the pastry or cake. They add the fresh fruit, whipped cream and decorations, and have the tools and appropriate location to do this finishing work.
TIP - Manage the range by removing a product when introducing a new type of cake or pastry. - Concentrate more on effective production and minimise the (expensive) finishing: the right balance is one hour of finishing to every seven hours of production. - Oonk strives to achieve 60 eurocents in production costs per pastry. If necessary, change the production process of the recipe.
Looking at our products from the point of view of the critical consumer “Communication is important.. We communicate in two ways: communication between the firm and the consumer, and internal communication. Internal communication is very important for getting the right interaction between different units. By giving input, you receive additional information in return and you make use that information for the future. For example: five minutes before opening time, each shop manager must take a critical look at the shop from the point of view of the consumer. This tactic has got us to the point where we have created an ‘academy’ for all shop assistants. Our most experienced staff give internal training courses and that can really pay.”
Competitions provide inspiration for product development “Bakery Oonk is known for regularly entering professional competitions and now and then we even manage to win one. We will also communicate this to the regional press, such as newspapers, TV and radio, in order to develop a certain connection and make promote our name. I am justifiably proud of my employees who take part in competitions, and I will always encourage them in this. Entering an (inter)national competition can broaden your knowledge and inspiration more than the two years of professional training. Have you ever calculated how much the product development actually costs? During a competition, all that know-how is there for the taking! Flavour combinations, new techniques, perseverance,...” “I myself am a member of Heerlijk & Heerlijk (“Delicious and Delicious”), a national organisation of professionals. The objective is the transfer of know-how and the joint purchase of seasonal packaging, advertising materials, sharing the production costs for videos, etc. Our regulations require us to visit a colleague six times a year, to evaluate them and even to criticise. Those visits have really helped me to progress. Transfer of knowledge! We regularly choose certain themes such as high tea, cupcakes, bits and bites, and chocolates. For each theme, we not only choose the ‘cakes’, but also do up the shop, make flyers, and send direct mails. Such theme concepts result in great commercial success for all the members.
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Café au Lait Sablé Breton (sweet short crust pastry), coffee-chocolate mousse, Duchesse biscuit Composition Using a neutral oil, attach several slices of rolled Duchesse biscuit to the domes. Fill these twice with the coffee-chocolate mousse, alternating with a layer of Duchesse biscuit. Place in the freezer.
Finish Remove the domes from the moulds, ice them with a neutral glaze and place them on a cake base. Decorate with fresh raspberries.
Breton cake - Bring the ingredients to room temperature. - Using the butterfly mixer, mix the tender Debic Butter Cake Gold with the sugar, the salt and the lemon. - Add the egg and mix it in. Sift the flour with the baking powders, add and knead to a homogeneous dough using a dough hook. - Store in the fridge. Roll out to 3mm thickness. Cut out circles of 18 cm diameter and place the dough on the baking tray with the circle around it. Pipe a thin layer of pastry cream onto the base and bake at 180°C for 15 minutes. Duchesse biscuit: - Whisk the egg whites with the sugar to a firm consistency. Whisk the yolks and fold into the egg whites. Sift the flour and the cornflour and carefully fold into the cake mixture. - Spread onto baking trays and bake at 200°C for 4 to 5 minutes. - Brush with the apricot jam and roll up.
Recipe Yield: 5 domes of 16cm Ø
Breton cake 350 285 5 5 3 43 17 3 540 400
g g g g g g g g g g
Debic butter Cake Gold sugar lemon zest ground lemon salt egg baking powder Bicarbonate of soda flour pastry cream
Duchesse biscuit: 3 trays of 60/40cm 405 455 365 250 26 330
g g g g g g
sugar egg white egg yolk flour cornflour apricot jam
Coffee-chocolate mousse 165 55 163 325 17 350 8 1
g g g g g g g L
sugar water egg yolk milk gelatine milk chocolate instant coffee Debic Cream 35%
Coffee-chocolate mousse - Boil the sugar and the water to 120°C and pour it over the egg yolk whilst stirring. (pâte à Bombe). Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in cold water. Heat the milk to +/- 65°C, add the instant coffee and the squeezed gelatine. - Mix with the milk chocolate to form a smooth ganache. - Add the pâte à bombe at around 30-35°C. Then fold in the lightly whisked Debic Cream. Process immediately.
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Debic Collection
Debic detected the heady scent of spring in Italy and crystallised this into productive, original and - above all - tasty cakes. Introduce your customers to the Mediterranean range, full of creamy tones. And get to work on this summer collection, full of wonderful tastes, colours, textures and shapes!
Semifreddo Americano Composition Recipe For: one baking tray of 60/40cm
Bake a layer of butter dough in a baking tray of 60/40cm. Leave to cool and pour the grapefruit cream onto this base. Cover with a layer of Almond biscuit and smooth over with lightly whisked cream. Place in the freezer.
Butter dough 275 260 50 300 6 3
g g g g g g
Debic Butter Cake Gold sugar egg flour baking powder salt
Almond biscuit 500 100 1200 100
g g g g
egg white sugar almond powder (50% sugar) flour
Semifreddo of grapefruit 500 500 50 75
g g g g
Debic Parfait Debic Butter Cake Gold sugar grapefruit purée
Finger food Cakes made in baking trays of 60/40 or 60/80 cm form an ideal and low cost base for slicing into tarts, pastries, little bites and finger food. Finger food refers to pastries and appetisers with slightly more elegant dimensions, so that they can be eaten with the hand. A base for a classic cake or pastry is cut into pieces of 9 x 4 cm; finger food is more commonly 12 x 3 cm.
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Finish Glaze with a green neutral jelly. Decorate with white chocolate shavings.
Butter dough - Mix the Debic Butter Cake Gold with the sugar and the egg. - Sift the flour, baking powder and salt and then knead in. Leave to set in the fridge. - Roll out at 3mm and spread evenly over a tray of 60/40cm. - Bake in the oven at 170°C for ±12 minutes. Almond biscuit - Beat the egg white with the sugar. Sift the flour and mix with the almond powder. - Carefully fold into the beaten egg whites. - Spread out on a baking tray and bake. 170°C/ 35 minutes. Semifreddo of grapefruit - Beat the tempered Debic Butter Cake Gold with the sugar to a light cream. - Add the Debic Parfait and the purée and lightly mix.
Panna Cotta al Lampone Composition Use a baking tray 60/40cm x 5cm deep to make this cake. Place a baked layer of butter dough at the bottom and spread half of the panna cotta with low-fat cheese on top. Add the frozen layer of crémeux + biscuit and press firmly. Spread the remaining panna cotta with low-fat cheese on top and smooth out. Place in the freezer.
Finish Cut into pastries of 3x12.5 cm. Decorate with fresh raspberries and pieces of pistachio biscuit.
Recipe For one baking tray of 60/40cm
Raspberry biscuit 500 500 500 400 100 200
g g g g g g
egg white sugar egg yolk flour potato starch (frozen) raspberry pieces
Raspberry crémeux 400 100 120 150 10 150
g g g g g g
raspberry purée sugar egg yolk egg gelatine Debic Butter Cake Gold
Raspberry biscuit - Beat the egg white with the sugar. - Add the egg yolk gradually. - Sift the starch with the flour and fold into the whipped mix. - Spread onto 2 baking trays of 60/40cm. - Sprinkle the frozen raspberries over the biscuit. - Bake in the oven at 220°C for 6-8 minutes.
Butter dough
Raspberry crémeux - Bring the raspberry purée and sugar to the boil. Add the egg and the yolks and stir like a custard (83°C). - Add the soaked gelatine and mix well. Add the Debic Butter Cake Gold as from 40°C and emulsify with a hand mixer. - Pour onto a layer of biscuit in a baking tray and cover with a second layer of biscuit. Store in the freezer.
Panna Cotta with low-fat cheese
275 260 50 300 6 3
1 700 10 1.45
g g g g g g
L g g L
Debic Butter Cake Gold sugar egg flour baking powder salt
Debic Panna Cotta quark cheese gelatine Debic Cream 35%
Butter dough - Mix the Debic Butter Cake Gold with the sugar and the egg. - Sift the flour, baking powder and salt and knead them in. Leave to set in the fridge. - Roll out at 3mm and spread over a baking tray of 60/40cm. - Bake at 170°C / for ± 12 minutes. Panna cotta mouse with low-fat cheese - Heat the Debic Panna Cotta to 60°C and add the soaked gelatine. Mix with the quark cheeze. - Work the lightly whisked Debic Cream into this mixture using a spatula (from ± 35°C).
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Debic Collection
La Scala Composition Place a layer of sponge cake in the bottom of the baking tray and brush on a layer of mango purée. Cover with a layer of crispy feuilletine. Pour the mango-lavender ganache on top and sprinkle with 100g chocolate crisps. Fill the baking tray with the nutty mousse, smooth out and freeze.
Finish Cover with a neutral, transparent glaze. Cut into individual portions and place on a baked base of chocolate dough. Decorate with pecan nuts and ganache.
Crispy feuilletine - Melt the beurre noisette, the white chocolate and the hazelnut praline and carefully mix with the feuilletine. Mango-lavender ganache - Heat the mango purée with the inverted sugar and the cream (80°C) and pour onto the melted chocolate. Drip the lavender extract onto the mixture and emulsify to a smooth ganache using a mixer. Chocolate sweet short crust pastry - Bring the ingredients to room temperature and mix them as instructed for classic sweet short crust pastry. Store in a cool place. - Roll out at 2mm thickness, cut, and bake at 170°C for 10 minutes.
Recipe For: one baking tray of 60/40cm
Crispy feuilletine 300 65 160 80
g g g g
hazelnut praline white chocolate feuilletine beurre noisette*
Mango-lavender ganache 300 75 900 6 250 100
g g g g g
mango purée inverted sugar white chocolate drops of lavender extract Debic cream 35% chocolate crisps
Chocolate sweet short crust pastry 200 110 25 70 345
g g g g g
Debic Butter Cake Gold soft light brown sugar almond powder egg flour
Nut paste 300 100 300 75
g ml g g
sugar water pecan nuts, chopped beurre noisette*
Nutty mousse Nut paste - Boil the sugar with the water to make caramel and throw in the chopped pecan nuts. Keep stirring until it becomes sandy or sugary. Pour onto a Silpat and then ground to a thick paste together with the beurre noisette in a Robot-Coupe. Nutty mousse - Soak the gelatine. In the meantime, whip the Debic Cream 35%. - Mix the melted gelatine with the hazelnut paste. Fold into the whipped cream.
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1.2 L 250 g 8 g
Debic Cream 35% nut paste gelatine
* For 80 g of beurre noisette, use 110 g Debic Butter Cake Gold and heat this on the hob until it is a hazelnut colour. Drain carefully.
Griotto
Composition In the bottom of the longeur baking trays, place a layer of sweet short crust pastry. Prick and spray with pistachio frangipane. Cover liberally with 350g of (frozen) cherries and then cover with crumble. Bake: at 180°C for 20 minutes.
Recipe For: 3 longeurs of 40x8 cm
Sweet short crust pastry
Finish Caster sugar and glazing.
Sweet short crust pastry - Bring all the ingredients to room temperature and mix them in the stated sequence without kneading the dough elastic. - Wrap in cling ďŹ lm and store in the fridge. Pistachio frangipane - Mix the frangipane with the pistachio paste and the chopped pistachio nuts.
600 g 8 g 400 g 200 g 100 g 1000 g
Debic Butter Cake Gold salt caster sugar egg almond powder flour
Pistachio frangipane 1.3 90 10
kg frangipane g pistachio paste g chopped pistachio nuts
Crumble Crumble - Bring all the ingredients to room temperature and mix them. - Store in the freezer.
75 75 75
g g g
brown sugar Debic Butter Cake Gold flour
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Debic Collection
Pi単a Colada
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Composition Roll out sweet short crust pastry at 3 mm thickness and cut out circles of 18 cm diameter. Place the bases in wooden baking rings, covered in baking paper. Pipe a layer of coconut frangipane on top. Add the pieces of baked pineapple, distributing them evenly. Oven: 180°C for ± 25 minutes. (tip: Store the baked tarts in the freezer. Decoration and finishing per day)
Finish Brunoise a fresh pineapple (+/- 600g) and spread decoratively over the tarts. Decorate with just red berries and half a vanilla pod.
Recipe For: 6 cakes of 18cm Ø
Sweet short crust pastry - Bring all the ingredients to room temperature and mix them in the instructed order kneading the dough without it becoming elastic. - Wrap in cling fi lm and store in the fridge. Coconut frangipane - Soak the ground coconut in the liqueur and the coconut milk. - In the meantime, loosen up the frangipane and add the coconut mix. Mix well. Frangipane - Loosen the Debic Butter Cake Gold and fold in the sugar. - Systematically knead the eggs into the dough. Fold in the flour with the almond powder. Baked pineapple - Heat the Debic Butter Cake Gold and add the fresh pineapple pieces and the split vanilla pod. Brown well and store.
Sweet short crust pastry: basic recipe 600 g 8 g 400 g 200 g 100 g 1000 g
Debic Butter Cake Gold salt caster sugar egg almond powder flour
Coconut frangipane 1.2 200 40 100
kg g g g
frangipane* coconut milk (canned) shredded coconut coconut liqueur
*Frangipane 1000 g 350 g 1000 g 1000 g 500 g
Debic Butter Cake Gold egg almond powder sugar flour
Baked pineapple 1 1 50
g
large Victoria pineapple (600g) vanilla pod Debic Butter Cake Gold
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Debic Collection
Velvet Recipe For: one baking tray of 60/40cm
Chocolate sponge cake 570 480 550 110 185 270 285
g g g g g g g
egg yolk sugar egg white sugar cocoa powder flour Debic Butter Cake Gold
Crispy feuilletine 300 65 160 80
g g g g
hazelnut praline white chocolate feuilletine beurre noisette*
Velvet cream 400 g 180 g 6 g
white chocolate Debic Cream 35% gelatine
Light cherry ganache 500 g 75 g 600 g 1300 g 9 g
cherry purée concentrated Griottines juice Debic Cream 35% white chocolate gelatine
Champagne cream 1 L 120 g 40 g
Debic Cream 35% sugar champagne compound or Marc de Champagne
* For 80 g of beurre noisette, use 110 g Debic Butter Cake Gold and heat this on the hob until it is a hazelnut colour. Drain carefully.
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Chocolate sponge cake - Whisk the egg yolk with the sugar. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until they are snowy. In the meantime, sift the flour with the cocoa powder. Melt the butter and use a spatula to mix the ingredients together in this sequence, then spread onto 2 baking trays (60/40). - Oven: 200°C / 10 minutes. Crispy feuilletine - Melt the beurre noisette, the white chocolate and the hazelnut praline and carefully mix with the feuilletine. Velvet cream - Melt the chocolate and pour into a stainless steel bowl. Place in the oven for 2 hours at 135°C. Stir regularly until the mixture has a soft brown colour. - Melt the soaked gelatine in the warm Debic Cream 35% and mix with the chocolate as if you were making a ganache. Light cherry ganache - Heat the Debic Cream 35%, the cherry purée and the Griottines juice and pour onto the melted chocolate. Fold in the soaked gelatine and quickly mix to create a homogeneous ganache. - Allow the mixture to rest for 24 hours in the fridge. Whip. Champagne cream - Mix the ingredients, using the first speed on the mixer, and then whip the cream until it forms stiff peaks.
Composition Place the chocolate sponge cake in the bottom of the tin. Carefully smooth out the crispy feuilletine. Add the velvet cream and cover with a second layer of chocolate sponge cake. Spread ž of the whipped cherry ganache into the baking tray and smooth it out. Place in the freezer.
Finish Use the remaining Âź of the whipped cherry ganache to create puffs on the surface, and alternate these with puffs of whipped champagne cream. Pipe on a mix of white chocolate and cocoa butter (50/50). Decorate with fresh raspberries, blackberries, Griottines and 50 g of raspberry jelly.
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I Love Technics
RECIPE 1
1 L 350 g 20 g
16
Debic Cream 35% raspberry purĂŠe gelatine
RECIPE 2
0,8 250 16 45
L g g g
Debic Cream 35% Italian meringue gelatine raspberry compound
RECIPE 3
1 200 200 45
L g g g
Debic Cream 35% bavarois mix powder water raspberry compound
Taste - Compatibility
Cheaper if you use egg white meringue
Simple preparation
Defrosting fruit purĂŠe Stock management of the freezer.
Reduced fruity taste. Shrinks after freezing due to the large amount of air.
Reduced fruity taste.
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Gelatine or bavarois mix powder I Love Technics is a section where we answer the FAQs of customers and elaborate on the answers with clear and practical examples. These are not creations. They are merely ideas on the theory of ingredients, recipes and techniques. In this edition of ‘I Love Technics’, we compare various binding agents and methods of making bavarois or mousse. This product category is still an important source of creation and craftsmanship in every patisserie. If you use the right ingredients and process, you will always obtain a perfect end-result. What is the difference between the methods, recipes and the end-result when preparing bavarois and mousse with different binding agents? Besides the classic method, with fruit purée and gelatine, bavarois mix powders and fruit compounds are used and incorporated. In order to get a correct comparison, we used Debic Cream 35% throughout.
RECIPE 4
RECIPE 5 TIP Do not whisk the Debic Cream for too long. Debic would advise not to whisk the cream too stiffly in order to make it easier to fold in the other ingredients such as chocolate, fruit purée and ganache.
1 L 250 g 350 g
Debic Cream 35% bavarois mix powder raspberry purée
1 L 250 g 250 g
Debic Cream 35% bavarois mix powder with raspberries water
Fruit compound alternative
Quick and safe preparation
Powder and purée become sticky and are difficult to mix.
No personal touches or flavour adjustments.
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I Love Technics
How do you stabilise the bavarois or mousse for freezing? To bind bavarois or mousse and give it the necessary (freezer) stability, an additional binding agent is needed. There are several possibilities for this. We have compared these, depending on the personal choice and the method used.
Gelatine (E441): is a natural ingredient, derived from connective tissue from the skin and bones of animals. The gel strength is expressed in Bloom (140-250). For patisserie, a ďŹ gure of 160-200 Bloom is usually used. Words such as silver, gold or bronze only indicate the transparency.
- Before melting, ensure that the gelatine leaves are sufďŹ ciently soaked for an optimum gel strength. - Add a portion of fruit purĂŠe to the soaked gelatine and melt these together. This prevents lumps of gelatine forming when you fold it into the cold cream. - In all Debic recipes, the gelatine is weighed and expressed in grams.
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What is bavarois mix powder?* Bavarois mix powder is not gelatine powder, but a stabiliser and contains gelatine as well as approximately 60% sugar and/or starch. Each manufacturer uses their own terminology for this, but the process is largely comparable. *Follow the dosages and the recommendations of the manufacturer precisely.
What is the difference between leaf gelatine and gelatine powder?
Converting leaves into powder gelatine is easy. Use the following formula:
Gelatine in powder or in leaf form are identical, so the gel strengths are the same. The important thing therefore is to weigh it correctly. When using gelatine leaves, soak them one by one in a sufficient amount of cold water for at least 30 minutes.
2 10
g g
gelatine powder water
Equals: 1 soaked gelatine leaf of 2 grams. Mix and leave for at least 20 minutes
SOME USEFUL TIPS - The use of Italian meringue (a stable meringue that has been made with the addition of a boiling sugar syrup) ensures a lighter mousse but will shrink more after a longer time in the freezer.
- The choice between the use of egg white meringue, pâte à bombe or anglaise as a basis for a mousse or bavarois depends on personal preference, traditions or experience.
- Use a cream air blower or a whipped cream machine to optimise the airiness of the Debic cream.
- A few drops of fresh lemon juice give a taste compound a fresher note.
Fruit compounds and aroma pastes: Add 35 to 50g to 1 L of lightly whisked cream
It is important that you follow the instructions and dosages of the manufacturer in order to achieve the optimum result. Not all recipes can be translated in full.
Fruit purées, are mainly offered frozen. A 25- 40% dosage leads to the best results.
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I Love Technics
Whipped cream: the real white gold Whipped cream, crème chantilly, cream: attractive tasty names for a fresh-tasting emulsion of butterfat, milk and air. Without using this ingredient, no bakery, ice cream parlour, chocolatier or restaurant can express its creativity to the customer whose expectations are constantly rising.
Electric mixer
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Whipped cream machine
Cream air blower
Cream is used in a wide variety of ways: whip it for masking or decorating cakes, heat it for ganache. Besides the typical and irreplaceable taste of cream, professionals expect a reliable product that meets all intrinsic requirements. For a patisserie, it is extremely important that cream remains firm after it is whipped, so that it is perfect for decorating without losing its firmness and that it is smooth for mixing with other ingredients, without any risk of it parting or becoming grainy.
Whipping cream Stable whipped cream can only be made from cream if there is a sufficient amount of butter fat present to encapsulate the air bubbles and stabilise itself within a globule of butter fat. This network gives stability and structure to whipped cream.
How to whip cream The most classic way to whip cream is using a whisk, now often replaced by an electric mixer. Whip the cream at a medium speed until the whisk leaves visible lines, then use the highest setting until you achieve the desired result. There is definitely a difference between the end consistency for decorating and for mixing with chocolate or fruit purée. For piping pointed decorations, the cream needs to be firmer than for mixing with fruit purée or chocolate, for which a smooth consistency is recommended.
Modern equipment As well as electric mixers, a large number of pastry chefs, confectioners, ice cream parlours and tearooms use whipped cream machines and cream air blowers. The push-button machines or whipped cream machines are especially popular and worth the investment due to their constant airy but firm cream. Liquid (sweetened) cream is pressed through a jagged tube (labyrinth) with a pump and can be regulated easily depending on the amount and consistency needed.
TIPS - Debic has a range of cream specialities, developed for specific applications. Our external sales department will be happy to advise you. This makes the use of additional ingredients or stabilisers superfluous. In fact, these have a negative impact on the taste! - Keep an eye on the temperature. Use Debic cream straight from the fridge (preferably at between 2 and 4°C) so that the cream doesn’t have a chance to warm up. Whipped cream that is whipped above 8°C will clearly lose yield and turn yellow. - Work with clean materials, plastic piping bags and cleaned nozzles and always cover any opened whipped cream. Cream and other dairy products easily absorb the scents and smells in immediate environment. - Whipped cream machines must be rinsed and disinfected daily: there is no such thing as ‘too clean’ for a whipped cream machine.
Cream air blowers whip the cream slowly and constantly by blowing cooled air into it, whilst keeping the cream moving with a butterfly whisk. The advantages: the highest output and very suitable for patisseries that make a lot of bavarois and mousse.
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Visit & Create
Top creations by Julien Alvarez, Patisserie world champion
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In January 2011, Spain deservedly won the prestigious Coupe du Monde of Patisserie in Lyon. With Yann Duytsche as captain and Julien Alvarez as patissier-chocolatier, the Spanish presented impressive works of art made from sugar, chocolate and ice cream, and received a high score for their Entremets: Rosa del Viento. Julien Alvarez used to be a patissier at Philippe Conticini and Angelo Musa in Paris and at Patisserie Bubo in Barcelona and is now a professional expert of patisserie, confectionery and chocolate at the Ecole Bellouet Conseil in Paris. He gave a demonstration in Belgium. Debic went to watch and listen to the philosophy of this world champion.
The passion for my job is my motivator
“Since I earned the title, I haven’t changed my way of working or thinking.”
“I work as an all-round professional teacher at école Bellouet Conseil in Paris. I still have a passion for the profession. The exchange of know-how and ideas is enormous these days. The projects keep fascinating me, you can feel that the confectionery world is evolving. There is plenty of demand for knowledge and craftsmanship and that is what we try to convey with the school.” Being a World Champion in patisserie is not a goal in itself but a confirmation and a motivator. “Since I earned the title, I haven’t changed my way of working or thinking. I am aware, however, that the customers and the general public have become more demanding and have extremely high expectations of me due to my title. It does allow me to see more of the world, however, because I am frequently asked to attend demonstrations or be a jury member”
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Visit & Create
Where are the international differences in our profession? “It is noticeable that French patisserie is still considered the quality standard. Of course there are international differences in taste, and sugar and fat content. Tastes and textures are also determined by cultural and geographic influences: think of Yuzu in Japan, nuts southern Europe, dried fruit in North Africa and herbs and tea from the East. But people still stay close to the technical base. The East has an incredible hunger for know-how and recipes that are eagerly taken up during demonstrations, workshops and courses. Their interpretation of certain pastries or recipe combinations stimulates me even more to spend more time on recipes and the mutual exchange of know-how.”
Emotion as an ingredient “Taste is very important in pastries and cakes. Despite have knowledge of the techniques, emotion and taste sensation have become much more important. Just like every other ingredient, we have to find the best possible solution for the end product. I am confident that a tasty product is also attractive. The contrary is not necessarily the case!”
Recipe For: 18 individual pastries
Jelly roll cake with orange flavour 140 100 140 20 170 100 250 120
g g g g g g g g
milk Debic Butter Cake Gold flour zest of an orange egg yolk egg egg white sugar
Candied raspberries 65 85 215 20 8 5 5
g g g g g g g
inverted sugar raspberry pieces raspberry purée sugar pectin NH gelatine lemon juice
White spiced ganache 480 225 1 1 10 35
Rosa del Viento ; winning tart at the Coupe du Monde 2011 Glacage recipe on www.debic.com
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g g
g g
Debic Cream 35% white chocolate vanilla pod tonka bean zest of an orange Cointreau 60%
Frisson with orange flavour Composition - Spread the candied raspberries on the smooth side of the roll cake. - In the meantime, whisk the white ganache and spread 400g over the candied raspberries. Keep the rest for the finishing. Tightly roll the jelly roll cake and store in the fridge.
Finish - Cut the cake into 3cm wide discs. Apply the whipped ganache with a Saint Honoré nozzle. - Decorate with a chocolate garnish and fresh raspberries.
Jelly roll cake with orange flavour - Leave the grated orange zest to infuse in the heated milk with the Debic Butter Cake Gold for 10 minutes. Bring back to the boil and finish off, like a classic choux batter with the eggs, egg yolk and flour. Meanwhile whisk the egg white with the sugar. Carefully fold into the choux batter. - Spread out on a baking tray of 60/40cm. - Oven: 170°C / 10 minutes. Candied raspberries - Dry mix the pectin with the sugar. Heat the inverted sugar with the raspberry pieces, the lemon juice and the raspberry purée to 45°C. - Add the pectin/sugar mix to this liquid and bring to the boil. Add the soaked gelatine and stir gently. Store. White spiced ganache - Heat the Debic Cream to 60°C together with the orange zest, the split vanilla pod and the grated tonka bean. Leave to infuse for 1 hour. - Re-heat and pour the liquid through a pointed sieve onto the white chocolate and Cointreau. Mix to a smooth emulsion. Store in the fridge at 4°C.
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Italy report
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Sigep Rimini 2012 kicks off the annual trade fair season The European trade fair season starts, by tradition, with the Sigep Trade Fair Rimini in Italy. Having grown from a purely ice cream fair to an internationally renowned pastry, cake and ice cream fair, Sigep sets the tone for trends, tastes and styles. Debic went to soak up the atmosphere and saw some of the interesting directions in which the bakery sector might go. Cupcakes and cake design The trend continues: cupcakes and wedding cakes, with or without fancy decorations, are hot. This can be seen from the number of workshops and demonstrations given on this subject. A new challenge for pastry chefs is the giant wedding cake. Popular perhaps due to the royal wedding in Britain, or are we witnessing a return to traditional romantic values? The trend is there and responding to it may lead to extra turnover.
Coffee, coffee corners, barista, milk bars After ice cream and fashion, coffee is a necessity of life for every Italian: espresso, café lungo, cappuccino… It’s a way of life. An unstoppable trend that has lasted for a number of years is the commercial importance of coffee in our sector. Integrating coffee corners into the bakery continues to gain in importance. It started as an impersonal coffee from a machine but the major coffee brands are now improving their image by offering compact machines. Shop designers have recognised this important fact and are looking for ways to create coffee moments in the shop. Today, manufacturers are providing machines that can be integrated into the shop or ice cream parlour for roasting coffee in-house .
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Italy report
Tiramisù Agrimontana
Debic had a strong presence at the various professional competitions.
Chocolate - Provenance, fair trade, organic The more the chocolate market is dominated by the major world players, the more smaller manufacturers take the step towards presenting their regional cocoa beans and chocolates. Responding to the fair trade and organic trend may encourage some consumers to reflect on the quality and minor pleasures of life. Experience is the keyword, responding to emotions without compromising on authenticity. Chocolate means more than a tablet, a little chocolate or a cheerful figurine. Tasty chocolate drinks, chocolate bars and liquid chocolate à la carte are merely the starting-point for the future perception of this ingredient.
When talents combine Debic, exclusively available as a brand for food service specialists, was conspicuous in the various professional competitions at Rimini. Supporting the Junior World Cup to encourage young people is, in our opinion, an investment in the future of the patisserie. It is remarkable that more and more women are entering this traditionally male profession. As the main sponsor, Debic was proud to announce Sonia Balacchi as the winner of the Pastry Queen Award following the first competition for female pastry chefs. The highlight competition of the Sigep - the Gelato World Cup 2012 - was won once again by Italy.
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Aperitivo in Milan La Dolce Vita and business instinct‌ Generate a higher turnover by creating or encouraging eating occasions! In Italy, the traditional aperitivo is still found in all its glory. Pasticceria Ambroeus and Ristorante Teatro alla Scala il Marchesino set the tone and uphold this tradition.
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Italy report
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Offering the finest appetisers and delicacies is a question of honour In Italy, the traditional Apéritivo still exists in all its glory. Pasticceria Ambroeus and Ristorante Teatro alla Scala il Marchesino set the tone and uphold this tradition. ’In the evening between finishing work at six and dining at eight, you can relax with colleagues, friends or family, whetting your appetite at the local aperitivo bar with a bitter drink, a prosecco or an Americano (Campari, sweet vermouth and soda water). Naturally, this calls for small bites that go beyond the usual bowls of nuts and olives or breadsticks. It has become a matter of honour to serve, without charge, the best and finest appetisers in buffet style with a carefully made, relatively expensive, aperitif or cocktail. It is clear that the importance of this trend is growing: major fashion brands now lend their personal touch of luxury, e.g. Armani Café, Trussardi Aperitivo and Bulgari Hotel. As bakers, we can cater to this trend. Not all cultures and customs can be fully transplanted. But there is the opportunity to promote such a trend in any cosmopolitan city. Today, eating occasions in a bakery or tasting room are, in fact, mainly based on breakfast, lunch and the coffee break. The guaranteed future of a successful business.
Increase your turnover Patisserie shops, with their own tasting room, could use this aperitivo idea to create, and promote, their own aperitivo moment. Appetisers from your own bakery, together with typical Italian delicatessen products, will certainly seduce many a foodie or gastronome. By expanding or adjusting eating and tasting moments, a baker can easily boost his turnover. A successful example is the tapas trend which has come from Spain or the sushi and oyster bars in Paris and London. Do you, as a reader, have experience of this idea or a similar concept? Let us know! We’d love to visit you for an eye-witness account. Mail us using the contact form on our website www.debic.com
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Looking for affordable top quality? Then you will, of course, choose the bakery products of Debic. We go one step further by providing inspiration for you, both as a professional and as an entrepreneur, while supporting you in your day-to-day activities, thus making your business more proďŹ table.
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When talents combine.