SPRING – SUMMER 2011
Magazine Tasty tips for chefs
I LOVE TECHNICS preserving in modern cuisine
MAGNUS NILSSON Swedish Viking on The Flemish Primitives
BISTRONOME
Top-class gastronomy in Luxembourg; the resurgence of the bistro culture
FLANDERS' FINEST
Culinary enjoyment during a prestigious sports event
Left: Tom van Meulebrouck, Culinary advisor, Debic Right: Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Pastry chef and confectioner, Debic
Our culinary advisors are... your culinary advisors! As a hallmark in the world of Hotel, Restaurant and Catering Industry, Debic's aim is to continually inspire you. We go one step further in this respect: with the Debic Magazine. Our enthusiastic advisors Tom van Meulebrouck and Bruno Van Vaerenbergh – with their passion for haute cuisine – introduce you to new products, authoritative reports and inspiring applications and techniques. Not only on the creative level, but certainly also from the business perspective. Debic provides you with the tools to optimise your performance. As chef, you opt for quality. As chef, you therefore also prefer brands that share your passion. And with culinary advisors such as Tom van Meulebrouck and Bruno van Vaerenbergh, who have daily practice in the kitchen, you have the guarantee of a brand that understands what inspires you!
We wish you many hours' happy reading with the Debic Magazine
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In this number
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Magnus Nilsson Viking in the kitchen ■
The looks of a Viking and the talent to engage creatively with nature. At the Flemish Primitives, Magnus Nilsson shows us what ‘Real Food’ is all about.
■
Preserving also in 2011!
Preserving is a classic technique in the kitchen. What advantages does this technique offer in the professional modern kitchen?
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Culinary enjoyment on the Wall of Geraardsbergen 18 ■
A peep behind the scenes of a top culinary event held during a major European road cycling classic.
The Debic Collection
■ Debic presents some promising recipes for the summer months. Based on the descriptions, you can get to work straight away.
Variations with tiramisù
■ Discover the countless possibilities of tiramisù.
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Colophon Publication of FrieslandCampina Professional Grote Baan 34, 3560 Lummen, Belgium Tel.: +32 (0)13 310 310 info.lummen@frieslandcampina.com debic@debic.dk info.creteil@frieslandcampina.com elcastillodebic@elcastillodebic.com info.koeln@frieslandcampina.com fernando.ribeiro@unifineiberia.com info.milano@frieslandcampina.com fredrik.salevik@debic.se info.nuenen@frieslandcampina.com info.warszawa@frieslandcampina.com www.debic.com Editorial board André van Dongen, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Kurt Boodts, Maurice Janssen, Tom van Meulebrouck
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Recipes André van Dongen, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Gerd Billemon, Jean-Charles Hospital, Magnus Nilsson, Tom van Meulebrouck Photography Fäviken Magasinet, Kasper van ’t Hoff, The Flemish Primitives Design and production Force451
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Copyright© 2011 No copying is permitted of any articles in this magazine without the prior permission of the publisher.
Event
Meet, exchange and build on innovation
The Flemish Primitives
On Monday 14 March 2011, the third edition of 'The Flemish Primitives' was held in the Kursaal at Oostende. This is a culinary event that has, in a short time, achieved the level of the renowned congresses in Madrid and San Sebastian. Whereas, in previous editions, the emphasis was on technological innovations, this time the focus was on the product, the vision and respect for the ingredients. The guiding inspiration was to make use of many different plants, flowers, shoots, forgotten vegetables and wild herbs.
Master classes This time the event was split over two days that began with a series of master classes. Magnus Nilsson had the opportunity to display his enthusiasm for 'Real Food'. Together with Sang Hoon Degeimbre (L'Air du Temps), he presented an inspiring, two-and-a-half hour session devoted to ‘fermentation and pickling’.
3 Influential chefs on 1 stage On the second day of the event, it was clear that ‘Real Food’ also provided sufficient inspiration to get three celebrity chefs together in front of the stove: René Redzepi of the restaurant Noma that, once again this year, was voted the world's best restaurant, Sergio Herman of the three-star restaurant Oud Sluis and Michel Bras of the three-star Bras restaurant. René Redzepi clearly let nature rule him, creating a dish of moss and mushrooms. Sergio Herman demonstrated a combination of nature and design: a mock garland neckless of Jerusalem artichoke with scallop, hazelnuts, Bhudda’s hand and herbs such as blackcurrant leaves, goose grass and cardamom. With a remarkable combination of bread, candied orange and caramelized banana peel, Michel Bras showed that he was far from being conservative as the godfather of the group. The message was in any case clear: you can do very gastronomical with ‘ordinary’ products. Real Food is here to stay!
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Reports
“I live off the land and do not follow any trends. I serve whatever I wish whenever I wish.�
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Swedish Viking Magnus Nilsson presents...
Real Food philosophy Magnus Nilsson is a talented young chef with a singular philosophy. Just with his looks of a genuine Viking, he's a remarkable personality. His ideas do not detract from this image: during his demonstration at The Flemish Primitives, he transformed the hi-tech Ben Martin stove into a barbecue made of brick and using charcoal.
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Reports
Magnus Nilsson, born in the north of Sweden, was, for many years, the sous-chef of Pascal Barbot in the three-star restaurant L’Astrance in Paris. When he returned to Sweden, to the position of chef in a famous restaurant, he became dissatisfied. “I continued with the same style of cooking I had been used to in Paris but I found myself reassessing my direction.” He decided to quit cooking for good and began a sommelier's course. Once he had completed the course, he helped out for several months as a sommelier at the Fäviken restaurant in the north of Sweden. Today, he is once again full-time in the kitchen there as chef. He has developed a highly individual style of cooking. A style that is very close to his roots and which he feels ‘happy’ with.
Real Food Respect, control, selection, concentration and presentation: this is how Magnus sums up his ‘Real Food’ philosophy. He lives off the products of the surrounding land, respects the ingredients for what
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“I continued with the same style of cooking I had been used to in Paris but I found myself reassessing my direction.” they are, what they look like and where they come from. He accepts nature's own choices as a primary factor. The restaurant is located in an enormous, privately-owned nature estate in the region of Jämtland. More than 70% of the ingredients used in the kitchen are gathered in the area around the restaurant. The other ingredients, such as fish, come from Norway. No wholesalers, only pure nature!
Three seasons The current ‘pickling trend’ is not viewed by Magnus as a trend but as an absolute necessity. He explains that a year, in his point of view, is, in fact, only composed of three seasons. “The summer that lasts from early August to early October is extremely important.
This is when the land is in full bloom, there are countless ingredients available that can be used in the kitchen. After that, winter arrives and the land is covered with a thick layer of snow. We are therefore dependent on the summer harvest and everything must be preserved and stored in the correct way.” By using preserving techniques, including pickling, the chef gets through the winter, until the end of April. That is when, for him, the third season starts. “In the spring, that lasts approximately two months, there are many wild vegetables and herbs to be found in this area. These give me the inspiration for my menus. When one ingredient is finished, I exchange it for another, without altering the entire dish.”
I skalet ur elden F채viken unseasoned Scallops Ingredients Recipe for 10 people 4
scallops, sand free and hand devided birch charcoal juniper twigs dried hay mixed with fresh wild herbs
His signature dish is simple yet highly demanding as it's a question of the quality and precision of the preparation process. In order to achieve the best possible result, it is wise to have two people working in the kitchen. The scallops must be absolutely perfect quality and the timing of the process must be precise. Because of the good quality, perfect timing and accurate technique, the use of salt and other herbs is unnecessary. The salty, iodine-like taste of the poaching juice and the scallop is drunk and eaten directly from the shell. With this dish, that takes on the taste of birch charcoal, bread and butter are served.
Finish
F채viken Magasinet F채viken 216 830 05 J채rpen, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)647 4017 www.favikenmagasinet.se
Set fire to the birch charcoal. Never use oil or any other chemical: these are not beneficial to the taste. Lightly dampen the hay with water. Place the juniper twigs on the charcoal when this starts to burn. Lay the shells on the charcoal and cook them until their edges make a crackling sound. Open the shells and transfer the contents to a preheated ceramic bowl. Separate the scallop from the spat and the beard and immediately replace it in the shell. Sieve the juice and pour it back into the shell. Replace the top half of the shell. Serve the shells in a small basket with hay, herbs and a little birch charcoal. The shells must be served within 90 seconds of being removed from the barbecue.
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Visit & Create
Bistronome
Top-class cuisine in a bistro atmosphere Before we took over, it was a virtually rundown restaurant on the side of a boring main road. The Route d’Arlon still exists but all sorts of trendy businesses are now popping up, from here to the centre of Luxembourg. Design shops and catering establishments are doing well once again. Two colleagues decided to invest their years of experience in the restaurant world in a profitable concept: top-class cuisine in a casual bistro atmosphere.
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Identikit Philippe L’Hôpital: Head Waiter Born in: 1970 at Morlait, Brittany, France CV: Le Wengé, Luxembourg; Clairfontaine, Luxembourg; Roellinger, Brittany; Can Fabes, Barcelona
Identikit Jean-Charles Hospital: Chef Born in: 1969, at Saint Dizier, Champagne, France CV: Le Wengé, Luxembourg; Scholteshof, Hasselt; De Barrier, Houthalen; French Embassy, Washington
What is the strength of your concept? Philippe: “The accessibility of a French bistro and the taste of a gastronomic restaurant. A trend that has been going for a while now in major cities across the world, and is proving successful. No-one would have dared to predict that Michelin would include certain brasseries in their red bible. Less protocol, fewer waiters, the absence of dining room preparation, but an excellent cuisine with fresh and honest ingredients.”
“We started this restaurant a year ago. After a multi-star track record and experience in Restaurant Wengé in Luxembourg, where we were given a free hand by the owner, Pascal Brasseur, the time was ripe to move on to this project. The negotiations concerning the premises, the fittings, the finishing work and the kitchen took a whole year. We wished to undertake only a clearly defined project, given the high cost structure.” Bistronome Cuisine Bistronomique Route d’Arlon 373 L-8011 STRASSEN Grand Duchy of Luxembourg +352 26313190 contact@bistronome.lu www.bistronome.lu
How do you manage the cost structure? Jean-Charles: “In order to provide 2 x 46 covers a day, we use inexpensive products and follow the seasons closely. It sounds very modern, to boast about local and seasonal products but it makes (economic) sense. No lobster outside the season, instead we offer ray, skate or fresh mackerel. No meat from New Zealand or Argentina, instead braised pork cheeks. There is sufficient quality available in Europe. The fact that it sounds less grand doesn’t mean that it is tasteless or that you can’t make an original dish with it.”
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Visit & Create
“I am well aware that certain dishes are not very profitable but I prefer a full dining room with a smaller margin per cover. Many famous restaurants are visited by gastronomes once or twice and then these people go in search of a new hype, trend or hip place. Here, I see the guests return regularly. That motivates us and is, at the same time, our objective. The customer of today no longer wants to pay €150 to spend an evening in a restaurant.” Philippe: “We try to earn a greater margin on the drinks and a lower one on the meals. People return for delicious meals for a reasonable price and are then only too willing to take a good wine. I select the wines myself at the vineyard from the winegrower. This results in surprising wines with a sophisticated taste and enables us to earn a good margin. Naturally I have some little gems and various chateaux wines in my wine cellar. Fortunately, I have to pay our regular supplier for these only after they have been sold. That makes a great difference as far as investing in wine is concerned.” Ranking wines per type and character, rather than per region, has become more popular. House wine has an image that is too negative. A major saving has been achieved by fitting out the restaurant in a plain, sober yet appropriate style. Comfortable chairs rather than bistro stools. No expensive table linen, curtains or carpets. Above all, a spotless, luminous dining room in which everybody feels welcome. From business people to families and commercial travellers.” And the kitchen? Jean-Charles: “Here, I have let myself be inspired as far as style and content are concerned, by the brasserie of the restaurant Les Crayères in Reims. Absolutely fresh ingredients, professional service, an attractive interior and all this at a price for which many restaurants won’t even open their doors. Our supplier is very reliable, providing us with high-quality fresh products, Debic cream, vegetables from the region and fish from the North Sea. Molecular and technical novelties don’t interest me, they hardly ever contribute to the taste and are, in fact, more of a decorative element. Siphons and low temperature cooking are the only elements that have been added in the kitchen.”
“The rabbit dish on our menu symbolizes our philosophy. Tasty, honest and affordable.” Is this also reflected in the dining room? Philippe: “It is a question of two different professions that go together. In the kitchen you don’t see what is going on in the dining room and vice versa. Both aspects require the same amount of attention, effort and enthusiasm. This mini-region has considerable spending potential. Not too many offices, so that in the evening – thanks to the many residents – there is plenty of life in the streets. Life in Luxembourg runs parallel to the school terms. Holiday periods are rather quiet. Autumn and the month of May are the peak periods. The countless positive compliments of regular customers who appreciate this approach are very encouraging. They admit that the former restaurant at this location dozed off somewhat, gastronomically speaking.” What golden advice would you give to chefs? Jean-Charles: “Calculate, do your sums and count! It is of vital necessity to make very accurate calculations of what the restaurant costs you per month without the meals! Rent, taxes, gas and electricity, insurance, environmental costs… Only then do you know the minimum that you need to earn back in order to cover those costs. Only then do you begin to work on the menu, not the other way round!”
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Ingredients Recipe for 8 people
Filling 200 g spicy chorizo 300 g white bread 400 ml Debic Cream 35% 500 g spinach 200 g Parmesan cheese 10 g garlic 1 g nutmeg 1 g Espelette pepper 10 g lemon zest
Potato mousseline; Charlotte 750 g Charlotte potatoes 200 ml Debic Cream 35% 200 ml milk 250 g butter 80 g black Taggia olives
Saddle of rabbit 4 saddle of rabbit 8 rabbit kidneys 32 slices of pork belly 100 g rabbit broth 40 g olive oil 8 slices of Charlotte potato 8 thin layers of smoked bacon 5 g granulated sugar 3 g salt 5 g hazelnut oil
Saddle of rabbit filled with chorizo. Spinach and potato mousseline with olives Method Cut the white bread into very small dice (brunoise) and soak these pieces in the cream. Cut the chorizo into very small dice (brunoise) and heat them until the fat seeps out. Pour onto kitchen paper and braise the spinach leaves in the chorizo fat. Add the crushed garlic, the grated lemon zest and the nutmeg. After cooling, mix everything and season to taste with the rest of the ingredients. Cook the potatoes in their skins. Peel them and pass through a sieve. Stir till dry on the stove. Remove from the heat, add the butter, salted milk and the cream. Strip the saddles from the fillets. SautÊ the rabbit kidneys in olive oil and fill the rabbit fillet with chorizo stuffing and the kidneys. Roll in a sheet of aluminium foil on which layers of smoked bacon have been placed. Roll tightly. Bake in the oven at 160 °C for 16 minutes.
Finish Spread a spoonful of potato mousseline on an oblong plate. Shape the spinach using atube and arrange on the plate. Cut the rabbit rolls into three pieces and arrange on the plate. Reduce the rabbit broth and mix with fresh butter. Finish the dish with the potato slices and black olives.
Spinach roll 1 kg young spinach 10 g garlic 10 g lemon zest 2 g nutmeg 5 g salt
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I Love Technics
Preserving... still has a place in the 2011 kitchen The art of preserving was passed on from mother to daughter. In times when food was scarce and eating habits were determined by the seasons, storing preserved products in the larder was a way to survive the dark winter months. Heated greenhouses were still to be invented and products were not yet imported by air. This old technique, combined with the knowledge and ingredients that we have at our disposal today, gives new ideas and many advantages to the professional kitchen. In this issue of 'Illustrated Techniques', we will not be presenting new kitchen techniques but, instead, some traditional methods which, over the years, have been forgotten. Preserving was one of the most popular methods of conserving food in times past. Storing food in (preserving) jars was introduced more than a hundred years ago.
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The technique behind the preserving jar or the 'weck' jar. The 'weck' jar is named after the German firm, Weck. This company invented the procedure around 1900 and obtained a patent for it. When heated, an overpressure is created in the weck jar with the result that warm air, steam, and sometimes a little moisture, are pushed between the preserving ring and the top edge of preserving jar. The lid and the preserving ring are fixed to the glass rim by the force of the clamp fasteners and, in this way, act as a pressure relief valve. Air, steam and any liquid from the inside of the jar can escape, but it is impossible for air or steam to enter the jar from the outside. With the cooling that occurs after the preserving process, an underpressure (a vacuum) is created in the weck jar. This causes the normal pressure of the outside air to press the lid against the rim of the jar and the preserving ring, thereby ensuring a secure and long-term closure.
The basis: fresh products This technique stands or falls with the quality and freshness of the ingredients purchased. So always buy vegetables and fruit in season. In that period, the quality is high and the price low. When preserving fruit, to make jam for example, you need to use the best fruit. In addition to using top-quality products in season, hygiene too is an important aspect when preserving fruit. You must wash the fruit carefully to ensure that micro-organisms cannot survive the preserving process and thus spoil the product.
Different methods of preserving Preserving products can be done in different ways and is not only limited to jams and pickles. The five different preserving methods that can be used all lengthen the life of the product. Preserving products creates an environment in which micro-organisms, such as mould and bacteria, cannot survive. The two most well-known and most popular methods are pickling ingredients in vinegar and conserving with the use of sugar. Another method of preserving is the use of salt. With this method, the jars are not heated. The large quantity of salt preserves the product sufficiently by absorbing the moisture. It is also possible to preserve products in fats, such as butter or olive oil. In addition to extending the storage life, taste too plays a key role, as can be seen in the step-by-step instructions for preserving asparagus. A famous traditional Dutch method of preserving fruit in alcohol is known as 'boerenjongens' en 'boerenmeisjes' ('country lads' and 'country girls'). Alcohol of at least 40% proof – such as brandy, rum and liqueur – is often combined with sugar.
Advantages for the chef Preserving offers a number of major advantages for the chef. Preserving your own products is healthy in the sense that the product is free of artificial preservatives and E-numbers. The preserved products can be kept for a long period. This makes it possible to serve products out of season, in a responsible and unique manner, without charging a correspondingly high price. Following the rules of preserving, it is possible to store fruit and vegetables for up to twelve months. This technique also saves money, as it allows canners to profit from the abundant supply of fruit and vegetables in season. You can set up a small sideline venture with consistent quality and save considerably on the kitchen budget!
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I Love Technics
Preserving asparagus in butter fat.
Traditionally, the cut-offs and peel of asparagus have been used as a basis for asparagus soup. This is because the taste molecules in asparagus dissolve easily in water. By cooking asparagus in butter, the taste molecules that dissolve in water are preserved and the full taste of the asparagus is maintained.
1 Prepare
2 Prepare
3 Heat
4 Store
Boil the weck jars, rings and lids for 5 minutes in a large pan together with several tablespoonfuls of soda. Place the weck rings in the bowl with clean water and rinse and clean the components thoroughly. Place the jars upside down on a clean tea towel and, in the meantime, place the sealing rings ready for use.
Fill the jars with peeled asparagus. The asparagus tips should be vertical and packed tightly together in the jar. Mix 200 g clarified butter with 5 g salt and pour this on the asparagus until it is completely covered. Seal the jars with the rings and close the lids with the clamps.
Place the jars in the combi-steamer and heat to the correct temperature with 100% steam. The advantage of heating in a combi-steamer is that a large quantity can be prepared at the same time and the correct temperatures can be maintained. (For the exact temperatures, please refer to the temperature table.)
After heating, remove the weck jars from the combi-steamer and allow them to cool for 15 minutes on roomtemperature and then place them in a tub of cold water to accelerate the cooling process. Leave the clamps on the jars until the cooling process is complete. Remove the clamps and place a label on the jars with the name of the product and the date. The preserved product can be stored in the storeroom.
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It is not possible to preserve all products directly and some need a heat treatment in a combi-steamer. This is because certain products can be preserved only be adding preservatives or because products would then be overcooked and no longer suitable for consumption. The table below gives a detailed indication of the various possibilities and the corresponding temperature/time combinations required for achieving a tasty product with a long shelf life.
Preserving times and temperature table Product
Preserve at...
Temperature
Time
Asparagus
butter fat
90 ° C
25–30 min.
Lobster butter
butter fat
90 ° C
90 min.
Rhubarb compote
sweet
90 ° C
20–25 min.
Strawberries
alcohol
65 ° C
30–35 min.
Mushrooms
sweet/sour
90 ° C
20 min.
Raisins
sweet/sour
65 ° C
120 min.
Mackerel
sour
n/a
n/a
Tomato
sweet/sour n/a
n/a
Cocktail onions
sour
n/a
Lemon
salt n/a n/a
Green herbs
salt
n/a n/a
n/a
Salted lemon
Method
Recipe for 5 weck jars (1 litre each)
Scrub the lemon clean in running hot water. Slice the lemon into pieces and remove any pips. Mix the sea salt and coriander seed. Place a layer of lemon slices, in an overlapping manner, in the weck jars and then sprinkle with the mixture of sea salt and coriander seed. Repeat until the jars are full. Place the lids and preserving rings on the jars and then put them in the fridge/cold store for at least a week before use. The white, bitter part of the lemon is easily removed. The peel can be used in many other applications.
18 organic lemons 2 kg coarse sea salt 250 g coriander seed
Lobster butter
Method
Recipe for 5 weck jars (1 litre each)
Slice the lobster carcasses into equal parts. Heat a little of the Debic Baking & Frying in a frying pan and place the carcasses in this until they are well browned. Add the crushed pepper corns and the coriander seed. Divide the carcasses and place an equal amount in each weck jar. Fill the pots with the remaining butter, lemon peel, garlic and herbs. Place the lids and preserving rings on the jars and heat in the combi-steamer for 90 minutes at 90 °C with 100% steam. Leave to cool. Store for at least one week in the fridge/cold store before use.
2.5 kg lobster carcasses 4 L Debic Baking & Frying 10 g garlic 10 g lemon thyme 15 g black peppercorns 15 g coriander seed 10 pieces of salted lemon peel
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Catering
Flanders' finest
Enjoy culinary delicacies on the 'Wall of Geraardsbergen' Geraardsbergen is Flanders at its best. The Wall: sacred ground of Flanders, where cycling history has been written in the Grand Cru of the Flemish classics. A high point in the sporting calendar: for Flanders, Belgian sport and cycling enthusiasts. But the Tour of Flanders is much more than this. Cycling enthusiasts with a culinary leaning have gathered for the last seven years in the VIP village of Kasteel Oudeberg, on the top of the Wall (the steep hill leading to the chapel). Here they are greeted by high-class gastronomy from the managers Alain Corneille and Marieke Van Ghyseghem, served in a sporting environment.
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“I dare to assert that it is simply due to the quality we offer that we have grown so rapidly.” Marieke Van Ghyseghem
Alain Corneille
There are no Breughel-like scenes at Kasteel Oudeberg. What you do find is a top-level sporting and culinary spectacle. Marieke Van Ghyseghem and Alain Corneille can be justly proud of their approach which, after barely seven years, has yielded a winning formula. Alain Corneille: “I was born in Geraardsbergen and I have been able to live my dream at a prime location along the route of the Tour of Flanders. The experience I gained during the indoor cycling event 'The Six Days of Ghent' gave me an idea. Till then, there was no sports event with a high culinary level – a fact affirmed to us by many visitors and sponsors. Our aim is to incorporate high VIP content at a prime location.”
“In 2005 we opened our doors, full of enthusiasm with just a handful of clients: Dexia, Omega Pharma, Lotto and KBC. Thanks to the profits from the culinary village we have been able to restore the buildings and the grounds and return them to their former glory, including the adjacent garden and ponds. This makes the small castle more attractive as a venue for potential visitors.”
Domain Kasteel Oudeberg 9500 Geraardsbergen, Belgium www.kasteeloudeberg.be
Marieke Van Ghyseghem: “We are delighted by the positive reactions from all the visitors, invited guests, VIPs and sponsors. As in the past, this year too they could count on speedy service and delicious cuisine. Furthermore, this year's edition of the Tour was very exciting and the weather was kind.”
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Catering
What does quality mean to you? Alain Corneille: “From beginning to end, being looked after and pampered in a culinary sense. It also means that, nearby, there is ample free parking where the guests can be picked up by coach or a shuttle bus, and don’t have to leave their cars on a meadow as at other sporting events. Everyone is offered a glass of champagne in an attractive setting with decorations, flowers and candles. The garden is cared for down to the smallest detail and there are professional waiters and butlers. We could easily manage without hostesses, candles, flowers and linen napkins, but the partners, who are less sports-inclined, appreciate these little extras. For half the guests, the race is an attractive extra or decor. What really interests them is the actual event. It is an occasion to meet with friends, business partners and client networks in a relaxed atmosphere.” Can the 'village' grow even more? Marieke Van Ghyseghem: “We could expand the restaurant section, but not the number of people. Today, as far as surface area and safety are concerned, we are virtually at maximum capacity. We now have nearly 2,000 people who must be served a meal at the same time. So, this year, we have invested heavily in larger (double-decker) marquees. Last year we started collaborating with an external caterer, Silverspoon. Our cooks are highly trained and have worked in reputable kitchens, so that they are able to cope with the expectations, the stress, and the hustle and bustle of this one-day event.” What are the challenges that you face on such a day? Alain Corneille: “It all stands or falls with the planning. Who and what comes first, the setting-up or dismantling? Our location on top of the 'Wall' (the steep hill leading to the Chapel) is not so easy to reach! Also, the amount of electricity required must be accurately estimated. There are in fact a dozen steamers, ovens and bain-maries needed and these consume large quantities of energy. Then there's the question of safety, inspections, permits and fire prevention measures. Security and control of name badges must be discussed thoroughly, for visitors are always trying to get an upgrade of their own ticket. TV and video screens must be correctly installed, The sound must come from the ceiling, the lighting must be sufficiently atmospheric yet people have to be able to see what is on their plate. Following a TV report in a noisy tent is not the same as sitting in front of the TV at home with a couple of friends. You must be stern with yourself and your staff, and each year set a higher goal. Customers have been so indulged in recent years that they have become very demanding. Coffee must be served on time, champagne glasses must be refilled... customers are always expecting more.” Top-class sport thus, also at the culinary level Marieke Van Ghyseghem: “More than half our time is devoted to the catering of the whole event. In order to spread the risks, we subcontract a considerable part of this to an external party caterer. The main thing is that the customers get value for their money. We are therefore very careful when composing the different menus and dishes. Our own chef, Gerd Billemon, tries out, tastes, criticizes and adjusts every item on the menu, several times.”” What is your programme for 2012? Alain Corneille: “To continue along the same lines, improve even more the external briefings, and perhaps organize a breakfast or an after-party. A lifestyle or fashion event linked to the weekend would enable us to spread the high costs. The infrastructure is already in place. Our main revenue comes from The Orangery, the party menus, weddings and brunches on Sunday. We have the same approach, whether we are catering for a party or for an event. It is and remains our business card, and this can work both ways. And, as far as next year is concerned, may the best one win!”
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“The comments and compliments of the customers continue to motivate both me and my team.” Gerd Billemon: Chef Tim Van Wesemael: Head Waiter Peggy De Mil: Sous-chef
Where do you begin with such a big event? Gerd Billemon: “First we go through the master script of the day's events with all the critical points of the preceding edition. Together with Marieke, Alain and Tim Van Wesemael, the head waiter, we check the most delicious recipes for their feasibility. We then combine these to form a gastronomic menu.”
What is the role of creativity and passion in your approach? Gerd Billemon: “The party room ‘The Orangery’ is the main link throughout the year; I can make the most of my creativity there. The comments and compliments of our customers continue to motivate both me and my team. These give us, as it were, wings just at those high-stress moments when you are full of adrenalin and working away.” What does cooking demand of you in a special environment? Gerd Billemon: “Despite the limits of the castle kitchen, we cannot allow ourselves to serve dishes that are less sophisticated. Everything has to be thoroughly tested: the speed of serving, the number of components on a plate, the temperatures, the technical availability… In the castle alone, 90 covers have to be served. That is not easy, especially since I am not working with a fixed team.”
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Catering
Roasted turbot potato-parsley purée and cauliflower crème “Each component of the menu is tried out a number of times, tasted, criticized and adjusted.”
Ingredients Recipe for 50 people 6 kg 100 g 2 2 L 250 g 500 g 150 g 5 kg 500 g 3 5
turbot filet fresh butter cauliflowers Debic Cream 40% sea grapes smoked eel parsley potatoes shallot small trays of Afillia cress sliced violette potatoes
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Method Prepare a classic purée with the potatoes, parsley, the lightly simmered shallot and fresh butter. Cook the cauliflower until ready in the cream and mix to a smooth paste. Season the turbot filets and fry them in butter. Finish off in the oven. For the violette potato slices, fry splinter-thin slices of potato at 150 °C and store. Dice (brunoise) the smoked eel and fry until crisp.
Finish Arrange the cauliflower cream on the plate and place the warm turbot filet on this sauce. Pipe a small tower of potato-parsley purée on the plate and decorate with the violette-potato slices and Afillia cress. Finish the turbot with the crispy eel.
Ingredients Recipe for 50 people
Chocolate mousse 4 kg 500 g 4 L 200 g 10 g 500 g 500 g
fondant chocolate milk chocolate Debic Cream 40% Baileys gelatine leaves sugar egg yolk
Cuberdon ice cream 400 g cuberdons (Belgian confectionary) 500 g egg yolk 500 g sugar 2 L milk
Decoration 50 100 50 50 150 500 g l L
wild strawberries pineapple strawberries strawberries rambutan mint leaves pear syrup Debic Cream 40%
Chocolate mousse and three types of strawberries Method Melt both kinds of chocolate in a bain-marie. Heat the Baileys and melt the soaked gelatine leaves in this. Mix with the melted chocolates. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture has a ribbon-like texture. In the meantime, beat the Debic Cream, then mix everything carefully with a spatula. Store in a piping bag. Beat the egg yolk and sugar to a stiff ribbon. Dissolve the cuberdons in the boiling milk and cream. Mix at 83 째C. Cover and leave for one night in the fridge/cold store. Place in a turbine.
Finish Pipe fifty towers of chocolate mousse on a dish and decorate with fresh fruit. Serve 1 quenelle (oval shape) of cuberdon ice cream on the dish. Serve immediately.
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Debic Collection
Pure summer inspiration Whether you prefer a classic base or a more contemporary cooking style, the basis for high-quality creations is always the same: respect for the produce and cooking with pure products that are in season. Debic is dedicated to this philosophy with its range of top-quality dairy products. Our professional products link to any style of cooking, from classic to modern. With Debic in the kitchen you have, as chef, the ingredients at your disposal to raise your quality standards to new culinary heights. In this magazine, you can find inspiring examples, geared to the season. Pure inspiration for the summer months!
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Carpaccio salad with roasted hazelnuts, salad of young lettuce leaves and blue-cheese dressing
Ingredients Recipe for 10 people
Blue-cheese dressing 5 100 40 50 l
dl g g g g
Debic Culinaire Vegetal blue cheese, Roquefort white vinegar crème fraîche black pepper, ground
Carpaccio
Method Heat the Debic Culinaire Vegétal, melt the blue cheese in it and leave to cool. For the dressing, mix all the ingredients, except the cream. Stir in the cream until a homogeneous emulsion is created. It is also possible to prepare the dressing in a blender or with a handheld blender. Keep the dressing in a cool place. Wash the different kinds of salad leaves carefully and tear the salad into fine pieces. Slice the radish into thin pieces using a mandolin. Cook the green asparagus in water with salt until al dente and rinse immediately with cold water. Mix the hazelnuts with salt, sugar and oil. Roast the hazelnuts in the oven, frying pan or on the salamander (a cylindrical stove for heating).
Finish Thinly slice the tenderloin or carpaccio roll and arrange in overlapping layers on the plate. Marinate the meat with hazelnut oil, lemon juice and salt. Mix the salad with the fresh herbs, then cover with the dressing. Finish off the dish with the asparagus, radish, blue cheese, hazelnuts and freshly ground black pepper.
800 100 30 5
g g g g
tenderloin steak/carpaccio roll hazelnut oil lemon juice sea salt
Salad 30 green asparagus 10 red radishes 100 g frisée salad 100 g rocket salad 10 g parsley 10 g chervil 50 g blue cheese l tray of purple shiso 100 g hazelnuts 5 g granulated sugar 3 g salt 5 g hazelnut oil
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Debic Collection
Ingredients Recipe for 10 people 240 g butter 470 g flour 2 eggs 60 g almond powder 180 g castor sugar 50 g candied lemon peel 4 g salt 600 g frozen peas 200 ml Debic Cream 35% 100 g glucose syrup 200 g yoghurt whey 14 g gelatine leaves 5 g Moroccan mint 125 g flour 125 g butter 125 g granulated sugar 25 g yoghurt powder
Aerated/light sour cream 300 ml Debic Cream 35% 200 ml sour cream 30 g granulated sugar
Imitation strawberry 200 200 1 2 2
g ml g g g
strawberry mint sugared water citric acid gellan gum or agar-agar gelatine leaves
Strawberry sorbet 500 g strawberry purée, Mara des Bois 125 ml water 100 g granulated sugar 25 g glucose syrup 4 g ice-cream stabilizer
Method Mix the dough using butter, castor sugar, salt, eggs and almond powder. Sieve the flour and mix with the remaining ingredients. Allow the dough to rest for 12 hours in the fridge/cold store. Roll out to 2 mm in thickness and cut in the shape desired. Pre-bake the tart crust for 12–15 minutes at 160 °C. Mix all the ingredients for the yoghurt crumble and rub the mixture between your hands until it is crumbly. Leave for 2 hours at kitchen temperature and then bake for 8–10 minutes at 160 °C. Dissolve the gelatine in ice cold water. Heat the whipped cream, glucose syrup and peas to boiling point and add the mint. Blend the mixture, pass through a fine sieve and add the yoghurt whey, salt and drained gelatine. Cool the mixture on iced water until it is pendulous and then spread it on the tart base. Spread the yoghurt crumble evenly over the pea mixture and store in the fridge/cold store. Beat the whipped cream until it is airy, mix with the sour cream and store in the fridge/cold store until use. Tear the strawberry mint leaves and blanch them briefly in boiling water. Bring the sugared water to the boil and add the gellan gum. Boil for 1 minute and add the mint. Blend, pass through a fine sieve and add the gelatine. Fill the silicon moulds and place in the fridge/cold store. For the strawberry sorbet, boil water, granulated sugar, glucose and ice-cream stabilizer. Mix the strawberry purée and leave for one night in the fridge/cold store. Give it 12 minutes in the ice-cream turbine. For the pea gel, heat the sugared water and dissolve the gellan gum in it. Add the peas and salt to the sugared water and make a fine purée. Pass through a fine sieve and cool again on iced water. Purée the jelly until fine. When it is completely cool, work it once again through a fine sieve and store in the fridge/cold store. For the strawberry gel, bring the strawberry purée to the boil and dissolve the gellan gum in this. Cool immediately on iced water, purée the mixture and pass it through a fine sieve. Store in a piping bag.
Pea gel 750 375 4 1
g frozen peas ml sugared water g gellan gum or agar-agar g salt
Strawberry gel 500 ml strawberry purée, Mara des Bois 2 g gellan gum or agar-agar
Garnish 200 g strawberries 10 g Moroccan mint
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Finish Pipe the strawberry gel as drops onto the plate. Cut the tart into ten slices. Arrange a quenelle (oval shape) of aerated sour cream and drizzle a swirl of the pea gel. Make a hollow in the top of the imitation strawberries and fill with the sorbet. Marinate the strawberries and arrange together with the mint leaves on the plate.
Fresh garden pea crumble with Moroccan mint, aerarted sour cream and strawberries
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Debic Collection
Langoustines Ă la Royale Flattened langoustines perfumed with bergamot lemon, caviar, langoustine cream, sea grapes and goose liver
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Method
Ingredients
Grate the peel of the bergamot lemon and pass through a vacuum several times together with the olive oil. Pass through a fine sieve and mix with the juice of the bergamot lemon. Clean the langoustines and save the carcasses for the langoustine cream. Heat the carcasses on a high heat with the oil and pour on some vermouth. Brunoise the vegetables and sweat them in the butter until these are al dente. Add the carcasses, vegetables and wine in a large saucepan and allow the bouillon to simmer for one hour on a low heat. Add the cream and reduce by half. Lastly, add the herbs and allow to infuse for 10 minutes away from the hotplate. Pass through a fine sieve and season to taste with tabasco, lemon juice and salt. Store in the fridge/cold store. Clean the goose liver, break it into large pieces and cook for 20 minutes at 50 째C. Slice into fine pieces with the cutter and cover with the butter. Season to taste and roll the goose liver tightly in 3 layers of foil. Store in the fridge/cold store until use. Brush the brick dough with Debic Baking & Frying and grate the peel of the bergamot lemon on top. Season to taste with the salt. Slice into thick strips. Bake in a hot oven at 160 째C for 20 minutes.
Recipe for 10 people
Finish Flatten the langoustines between 2 layers of foil and arrange in a stainless steel ring. Season the langoustines with the bergamot infusion and coarse sea salt. Cut a thick slice of the goose liver. Place the sea grapes briefly in the tepid water and rinse the seaweed until clean. Arrange the food as shown on the photo or as you wish.
Langoustines 500 g 50 g 100 ml 20 g
langoustines bergamot lemon olive oil (Hoijablanca) sea salt
Langoustine cream 500 g langoustine carcasses 50 ml grape seed oil 500 ml white wine, Chardonnay 500 ml dry vermouth 500 ml Debic Culinaire Original 250 g bouquet of vegetables 30 g mixed herbs 10 ml lemon juice 2 ml tabasco
Goose liver 500 g goose liver 40 g colorozo salt 100 g butter 10 g salt
Garnish 40 g sea grapes 20 g purple seaweed 30 g caviar
Crispy brick dough cigar 250 35 50 4
g g g g
brick dough Debic Baking & Frying bergamot lemon sea salt
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Debic Collection
Ingredients Recipe for 10 people
Rhubarb tart 2 400 400 100 10 200 100 20
kg rhubarb ml grenadine syrup ml Tinto Fino ml sugared water g gelatine leaves g cream cheese g Debic Cream 35% g castor sugar
Rhubarb stuffed with strawberries marinated in elderflower and served with a goat's yoghurt and strawberry sorbet
Marinated strawberries 250 g strawberries 100 ml elderflower syrup
Method Sorbet of goat’s yoghurt 500 ml goat’s yoghurt 60 g granulated sugar 65 g glucose 30 g invert sugar 3 g ice-cream stabilizer
Strawberry sorbet 600 150 30 3
ml ml g g
Mara des Bois purée sugared water (1/1) invert sugar ice-cream stabilizer
Strawberry crumble 125 g flour 125 g butter 125 g granulated sugar 10 g yoghurt powder 20 g strawberries, freeze-dried 5 drops of red food colouring
30 | Debic Magazine
Slice the rhubarb in 3 cm pieces. Place the rhubarb together with the grenadine syrup in a vacuum bag and marinate for 6 hours in the fridge. Cook the rhubarb for 15 minutes at 65 °C and cool immediately on iced water. Sieve the juice and place the rhubarb sticks on the inside of a rectangular plug-mould and store in the freezer. Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water. Cook the wine together with the sugared water and add the remaining cooking water from the rhubarb. Dissolve the gelatine in this and spread it over the rhubarb tarts. Mix the cream cheese and castor sugar with the cream and store in a piping bag with a piping spout. Place the strawberries together with the elderflower syrup in a vacuum bag and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour. Mix all the ingredients in a vacuum bag with the goat's yoghurt. Cook for 15 minutes at 65 °C. Then leave to cool. Leave the sorbet mixture for one night in the fridge/cold store. For the strawberry sorbet, boil the sugared water, granulated sugar, glucose and ice-cream stabilizer. Mix the strawberry purée and leave for one night in the fridge/cold store. For the crumble, mix all ingredients in a bowl. Rub the dough carefully with your hands so that crumbs are formed. Leave for 2 hours at kitchen temperature and then bake in the oven at 160 °C. Store in a tightly closed tin.
Finish Turbine both sorbets in the ice-cream machine and mix to form a marble pattern. Arrange the rhubarb tart on the plate and finish with dots of cream cheese crème. Divide the crumble and the strawberries on the plate. Finish with a quenelle (oval shape) of ice cream and sprigs of lemon cress.
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Debic Tiramis첫
Variations with Tiramis첫! Create surprising seasonal variations by altering the base, the filling or the liqueur.
Debic Tiramis첫 is a new addition to the Debic Dessert range. With this base, it is easy to prepare a traditional Italian tiramis첫 with coffee, Marsala or Amaretto. This basic recipe also gives you enough latitude to use your own ideas and your creativity. Here are 2 recipes that are close to the basic one and, at the same time, guarantee a spectacle for your table. This way, each season you can prepare a varied dessert menu.
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Macerated strawberries with creamy pistachio crème on a crunchy base of shortcake biscuits Method
Ingredients
Remove the stalks of the strawberries and vacuum them, together with the strawberry liqueur, in a vacuum bag at half speed. Melt the butter in a small pan. Grind the cookies in the food processer and mix them, with the melted butter and sugar, to form a dough. Roll the mass between two sheets of parchment paper to form a thickness of 0.5 cm. Leave for one hour in the fridge/cold store and shape with a round mould. Cover and store in the fridge/cold store. Whip the tiramisù and mix with the pistachio compound. Place the pistachio crème in a piping bag with a smooth piping nozzle and store in the fridge/cooler. Finely grind the pink peppercorns and mix with the balsamico and the castor sugar.
Recipe for 10 people
Strawberries 500 g 100 ml
strawberries strawberry liqueur
Pistachio crème 1 50
L g
Debic Tiramisù pistachio compound
Finish Place the crunchy base on the plate and arrange the marinated strawberries on top. Pipe the pistachio crème on top, making layers of strawberries and pistachio crème. Finish the dish with ground pistachio nuts and the balsamico dressing.
Base 300 g 65 g 100 g
cookies, sprits (shortcake biscuits) sugar butter
Dressing 100 g 5 g 10 g
aceto balsamico peppercorns, pink castor sugar
Garnish 10
g
pistachio nuts
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Debic Tiramis첫 Xxxxx
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Tiramisù with macaroons, almond liqueur and candied apricots
Ingredients
Method
Recipe for 10 people
Heat the almond liqueur to boiling point. Use a gas burner to flambé the alcohol out of the liqueur. Allow it to cool to room temperature. Crumble the macaroons and drench them in almond liqueur. Serve the soaked macaroons on the bottom of the glasses. Soak the apricots for one night in lemon juice and sugared water. Add the brandy, scraped-out vanilla pith and the vanilla pod to the steeped apricots and cook for half an hour on a low heat until the apricots are soft. Cool and arrange around the glass dishes. Blend the remaining apricots with the juice to form a smooth purée and place it in a piping bag. Whip the tiramisù. Place the mixture in a piping bag, fill the glass dishes and then level off the tops with a kitchen palette knife. Store in the fridge/cold store until use.
Tiramisù 600 ml 100 g
Debic Tiramisù almond liqueur
Amaretti base 100 g 200 ml
amaretti macaroons almond liqueur
Apricots
Finish
100 g 100 ml 200 ml 100 ml 1
Decorate the tiramisù with the cress and the chocolate squares.
dried apricots sugared water lemon juice apricot brandy vanilla stick, Bourbon
Garnish 10 1
chocolate squares tray of Atsina cress
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Chilled is better! W E N
Debic ready-to-use sauces filled with freshness are waiting for you in the chilled area. Debic launches its first ever range of ready-to-use sauces that are filled with freshness. All 5 flavours are prepared using only ingredients of the highest quality and the best part is, you can still give them your own twist. And to preserve the optimal freshness in taste and functionality, Debic sauces are only available in the chilled area. Debic Info – c/o FrieslandCampina Professional – Grote Baan 34 – B-3560 Lummen, Tel.: 013 310 524 – e-mail: info.be@debic.com – www.debic.be