Debic Horeca Magazine Spring-Summer 2012

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SPRING – SUMMER 2012

MAGAZINE TASTY TIPS FOR CHEFS

Restaurant de Molen Innovative table preparations by restaurant De Molen

The technique explained: culinary foams Enhancing the taste experience with classic and modern foams

Aperitivo in Milan The secret behind the success of the Aperitivo


In this issue

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Restaurant de Molen

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A modern restaurant presents the latest trends in the culinary field. ■

The technique explained: culinary foams

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The technique and knowledge behind the making of culinary foams and espumas a veritable delight for the taste buds! ■

Marije Vogelzang

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About the passion of a designer, who looks at food from a different perspective. ■

Debic Collection

Colophon

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Perception as a source of inspiration for the Debic recipe collection. ■

Restaurant Le Hangar

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A modern and daring concept for a restaurant in France. ■

Get more out of Debic

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Apéritivo in Milaan Every day between 6pm and 8pm, it is Aperitivo time for the Milanese. Is this an opportunity for you?

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Published by FrieslandCampina Professional Grote Baan 34, 3560 Lummen, Belgium Tel.: +32 (0)13 310 310 info.lummen@frieslandcampina.com debic@debic.dk info.creteil@frieslandcampina.com elcastillodebic@elcastillodebic.com info.koeln@frieslandcampina.com fernando.ribeiro@unifineiberia.com info.milano@frieslandcampina.com fredrik.salevik@debic.se info.nuenen@frieslandcampina.com info.warszawa@frieslandcampina.com www.debic.com Editorial board Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Kurt Boodts, Tom van Meulebrouck Recipes Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Tom van Meulebrouck

New applications based on the Debic products. ■

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Photography Kasper van ’t Hoff Design and production Force451 Copyright© 2011 Contents from this publication may not be copied without the prior permission of the publisher.


Left: Tom van Meulebrouck, Culinary Advisor, Debic Right: Bruno Van Vaerenbergh, Pastry Chef, Debic

Dare to go beyond the limits of the plate What is served only counts for 50%!* These days, restaurant clients assess your restaurant based on their entire experience, and “going out for dinner” goes further than simply what is served on the plate. Make your restaurant into a successful concept by thinking off the plate. Open your eyes to new possibilities and put all those gastronomic dogmas on the back burner. In this issue, you will also find a report on a modern kitchen staff who bring the kitchen experience into the restaurant in an unusual but spectacular way. Also, she is not a chef, but an ‘eating designer’, who looks at our profession from a different perspective. She gives tips and shares her surprising ideas, such as tattooed sweet peppers. We also travelled to Milan and found out about the success of the Aperitivo. And, as always, you will find a technique and 4 recipes from our collection which focus on the taste experience. In brief, get more out of your business by looking further than just what is on the plate. Often, it does not require a major investment but it can have a significant impact on the way your guests assess your restaurant as an integral concept. We wish you an enjoyable read,

The Debic team

* Source: Food Service congress, November 2011 in Belgium

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Report

Innovative table preparations As classic as the name suggests, that is how modern the restaurant presents itself to the world. Nothing is left to chance at restaurant De Molen.

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During the service, the restaurant is quickly transformed into a theatre, where chefs are constantly presenting spectacular table preparations. According to the owners, social media and a cookbook are just as much part of the interior of a modern restaurant as the laid tables and the kitchen stove. The story of a restaurant that is successful and not only dares to be different but also gains in success by being an early adapter to new trends in the gastronomic world.

Active communication The creative force behind the restaurant is chef, Wouter van Laarhoven. “At times when the catering world is under pressure, we have to offer our guests something extra in order to remain successful.” Even though restaurant De Molen is hidden away in a small village in the middle of the Netherlands, the restaurant knows how to reach its guests easily through various communication channels. “For example, we have made a beautiful cookbook. On the restaurant’s Facebook page, guests can find the current menu with photographs of the dishes. Via Twitter, we inform our fans when tables are still available in the restaurant, or that we are launching a new menu. We have over a thousand fans who read these messages every day and a thousand clients can fi ll the restaurant several times over. Thanks to the World Wide Web, it has also become easier to absorb knowledge and to see what colleagues are doing on the other side of the world.”

Experience

“In times when the catering world is under pressure, we will have to offer the guests something extra in order to remain successful.”

Wouter follows the trends in the culinary world like no other chef. He is always looking for new ideas to make the restaurant a better experience. For example, the bread is made from flour that is freshly ground by the miller each morning. And, since recently, guests can even enjoy the delicacies of the restaurant kitchen in their own home. From tartlets to salad dressings and from cocktail garnishes to spice mixes. All products are displayed in a strategic place in the restaurant or can be ordered from the Webshop. Guests can take home a bottle of salad dressing and be reminded of their visit to the restaurant every time they make a salad. “In addition to the fact that these products make our business more well-known, they also add to our turnover. So I keep my kitchen percentage very low.”

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Report

Own signature There are several restaurants that offer products in a similar way. Wouter finds that it is very important to crystallize these ideas, so that they become applicable to the restaurant and get their own signature. When carrying out these projects, he can count on the full support of the kitchen team. “We have been working with the same team for three years. Right now, the kitchen team is a well-oiled machine working at full power. The chefs feel a certain responsibility and are involved in the business,” says Wouter. Those brave enough to share their knowledge are, on the other hand, rewarded. “The entire kitchen team contributes and still find the inspiration, time and energy to think up new dishes or preparations together. The comments of our guests are the best reward we can get as a team. That still motivates us to go one step further. These days, we think beyond what is on the plate.” Specially for Debic, the kitchen team demonstrated a few innovative table preparations designed to bring the kitchen experience into the restaurant.

Table preparations at a higher level 1) Arranging directly on the table

2) Adding nitrogen to the chocolate balloon

The interaction with the guests whilst preparing a table gives a restaurant visit a lot of added value. At restaurant De Molen, the chefs take over the table preparation from the waiters in some cases. A table preparation makes a restaurant into a theatre where the guest can enjoy the experience at their table. Classic table preparations, such as boning poultry or preparing a Crêpe Suzette, are evergreens that will always remain on the menu. Restaurant De Molen raises the concept of table preparation to an entirely new level. For example, the amuse consists of a fondue, where the gently cooked ingredients such as octopus, scallops and dumplings are cooked by the guests in a fragrant stock and are then dipped in capers or carrot powder. For the starter, langoustines are cooked at the table by placing them on a hot stone. In the case of other creations, the senses are stimulated by an aroma or by light. As a spectacular finale, restaurant De Molen pulls out all the stops by preparing a dessert at your table.

“The entire kitchen team makes a contribution, always finding the inspiration, the time and the energy to jointly create new dishes or preparations together.” The very latest in table preparations As a spectacular closure, a dessert is served directly at the table. Before the table preparation starts, the table linen is removed. Below, is another tablecloth, which has been treated with a special coating, thus transforming it into a piece of tableware. The dessert is prepared in separate dishes. Two chefs appear at the table to arrange the dessert as in a painting on the tablecloth. Sabayon and yuzu dressing are served with hibiscus ravioli and drops of yoghurt with honey. Finally, a chocolate balloon is placed on the table. This has been pre-fi lled with all sorts of candy, such as home-made candyfloss, fruit gummies and chocolate crunch. The balloon is fi lled with nitrogen and then smashed onto the table, revealing the contents. The guests can share the dessert and eat it straight off the table.

3) The chocolate balloon is smashed

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Unagi kabayaki This dish stimulates the senses with its aroma. The Unagi kabayaki is a signature dish with a combination of two traditional Dutch ingredients: eel and beetroot. Unagi is the Japanese name for eel, grilled on a barbecue in the Japanese way and glazed with a reduction of soy and mirin. The mirin is replaced by beetroot juice, which is also rich in sugar. This gives a Dutch touch and an earthly flavour to the Japanese preparation of the eel. This is combined with a mousse of typically Dutch smoked eel and a fresh, sour garnish of beetroot, radish and lime. In order to incorporate the barbecue flavour into the dish, the plate is placed on a cushion filled with a barbecue aroma of the dried skin of eel and smoke chips. A hole is made in the cushion to release the aroma whilst the guest is eating the dish.

1) Filling the cushion/bag with a barbecue aroma

2) Place the fragrance diffuser inside the cushion cover

3) Place the dish on the filled cushion. With a piercing tool, prick a hole so that the aroma is released gradually.

4) Empty cushion with a dish

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Technique explained

Taste experience enhanced by classic and modern foams

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A frothy substance mainly consists of air bubbles in a liquid that is stabilized by egg whites. The success of a culinary foam is not just in the visual beauty. Thanks to its airy and fleeting nature, it is also a veritable boost for the taste buds! In this ‘Technique explained’, you can see all that is involved in making frothy structures and textures. We explain the technique and knowledge behind the making of foams and espumas and afford a deeper insight into the different preparations of modern foams. Thanks to the revolutionary techniques from the kitchen of El Bulli, all sorts of frothy substances have been successfully integrated into the modern kitchen in recent years. As a tribute to this memorable restaurant that closed its doors in 2011, we will review various techniques based on foam. From classic to modern, for the ultimate taste experience.

Whipped cream The most traditional example of a culinary foam is whipped cream. Whipped cream is cream that is lightly whipped using a whisk or a whipped cream dispenser. Like whisked egg whites, cream consists of air and water, which is stabilized by egg whites. The process has to do with the way in which a structure of air bubbles is obtained. Whilst whipping, force is applied by the whisk and the egg whites undergo a change, resulting in the formation of a thin layer around the air bubbles. This subtly firms the foam for a certain amount of time. Cream can be whisked until stiff, whilst in the preparation of milk froth for a cappuccino, the foam quickly collapses again. The firmness of whipped cream can be explained by the percentage of fat bubbles present in the liquid. Whilst whipping, the fat bubbles begin to stick together in order to stabilize the air bubbles. The milk fat basically works as a stabilizer for the foam. Instead of using fat, airy and firm foams can also be obtained by replacing the fat percentage by ingredients which prevent the foam from collapsing once again. In addition to the classic examples of whipped cream, meringues and mousses, these are known as the modern foams or espumas.

Espumas and other modern foams Espuma means ‘foam’ in Spanish; it is the general name that is used, these days, for a foamy substance that comes out of a dispenser. The liquid, that is made airy like whipped cream, has to have a certain viscosity in order to maintain its airiness. Aside from the fact that egg whites or a certain milk fat percentage ensures a foamy and stable substance, there are also other ingredients or combinations of ingredients that can be used for creating a stable foam. For example, espumas can also be made based on a liquid and certain binding agents. Extremely airy foams can be obtained by frothing them with a hand blender. The following pages contain examples of both classic and modern foams with a unique taste.

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Xxxxx The technique explained

Whipped cream

Chocolate mousse

The best temperature for whipping cream is between 2 °C and 4 °C. The highest volume and the best results are obtained by fi lling 1/3 of the bowl with whipping cream and whipping this at an average speed until the whisk leaves lines. Then continue at a high speed until you reach the desired end result.

For a mousse, we always use a portion of whipped cream and a portion of egg whites in order to get the right airy consistency. In this example, white and dark chocolate mousse have been prepared and squirted with a piping bag with a double spout, creating a visually stunning presentation with a mix of 2 kinds of chocolate mousse.

Shrimp espuma

New style meringue

The shrimp espuma recipe has been developed based on whipped cream, shrimp shells and aromatics. In order to get a stable and airy espuma, at least 20% milk fat needs to be present in the recipe. The foam is served with a tomato shrimp salad with the recipe from our collection on page 16, where the creamy shrimp foam creates a delightful contrast to the fresh, sour salad.

Making meringues is a classic preparation, using lightly beaten egg whites mixed with sugar. This is then dried in order to obtain a crispy foam. Recently, it has become possible to extract the moisture from the egg whites. This makes it possible to mix liquid flavourings with the egg white powder and beating this to an airy mix. By then drying the foam, a very fine structure is obtained which resembles polystyrene. Once the foam melts on the tongue, the flavour of the liquid used to whip up the egg white powder is released. See recipe on page 20.

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Foamy Debic Panna Cotta

Fruit espuma

Debic Panna Cotta can also be used to create a stable and airy foam. The advantage of the panna cotta is that it contains both milk fat and a stabilizer/ binding agent in the form of gelatine. Melt the panna cotta, add the fruit purée and add air using a nitrous oxide cartridge. For the ideal consistency of the espuma, maintain a ratio of 3 parts panna cotta to 2 parts fruit purée.

You can also make espuma by working with fruit purée and gelatine. This creates a foam with more bite that feels different in the mouth compared to when you use cream as a base. For an espuma based on gelatine, maintain a ratio of 10-12 grams of gelatine leaves to 1 litre of fruit purée. Heat the fruit purée to 50 °C and add the pre-soaked gelatine. Leave to cool to room temperature and add air using a nitrous oxide pattern.

Foamy clouds

Wakame mousse

As we said earlier, airy structures can be obtained by mixing together the right proportion of water, egg whites and fat, and frothing these. This technique for preparing foamy clouds using a hand blender was also provided by El Bulli. The structure and texture of a bubble bath is obtained with the use of an emulsifier. For the recipe of the foam of shellfish stock, go to page 19, where the foam is used to visualize the foaming coast line.

The seaweed salad mousse is made based on the Hollandia Whipping Cream Original. The whipping cream has a fat content of 20%. That means that the overall recipe comes out at a lower fat percentage and, in theory, the espuma would not be stable. Nevertheless, a perfect airy foam is obtained, because the seaweed has gelling properties which act as binding agents. For the recipe, go to page 19.

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The passion of… Xxxxx

Edibble designs by Marije Vogelzang How do the colour and smell of our food influence us? What traditions and rituals exist around food, and what is the influence of food on the body? Love goes through his stomach, but the love for Marije Vogelzang’s food goes much further. It is the passion of a designer, who looks at food from a different perspective. Marije doesn’t just design the food, but also the experience around it. She takes into account everything that surrounds it, like atmosphere, colour, history and the origins of the food. With her creative approach, she inspires both the culinary world and the design world, and she enchants people with her inspiring food design.

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Why food? Marije attended the Eindhoven Design Academy in the late 1990s. This was the period when Dutch designers became famous across the world for their conceptual approach to design. While most designers focused on products from wood, metal or plastic, Marije opted to concentrate on food.

’Pepper bombs’ Food can, for example, be linked to health or to an emotional state. Many ingredients have an effect on the human body. That is how the peppers were designed. These are peppers that were stuffed and tattooed. The stuffing is related to the tattooed text on the outside of the pepper. This allows people to make more conscious choices about food. They will be more likely to choose the pepper with the specific effect they prefer, rather than choosing the stuffing they like best. Food also has a link with culture, religion, history, status and power. For example, she provided some light bites for an exhibition for survivors of the Second World War. She served simple hors d’oeuvres based on the scarce ingredients that were available at that time. This brought back lots of good memories of this dark period, since in those days food was synonymous with a sense of belonging. As she also has experience in catering and

“Everybody has to eat and, as a designer, I can’t think of any material so close to humans as food.” Food plays a key role in everyone’s life, and Marije’s goal is to spotlight the underlying notion and meaning of food. With her philosophy, she gives an outline of where her creative food designs can lead to.

running a restaurant, we asked her what tips she could give other chefs to make the most of their creativity.

What creativity can do for a chef ? Every chef possesses some form of creativity, says Marije. “They know how to be ad-hoc and flexible in the kitchen like no other profession. However, it is always hard to be creative and different. Chefs often focus on the styling and presentation of their dishes. This is also true for designers, who solely focus on the sleek design. Sometimes you have to break an established pattern in order to be creative, but you should have a clear perception or conviction when doing this. Steve Jobs made Apple successful by refusing to compromise on the product, the packaging or the price. Food doesn’t always have to be incredibly expensive and luxurious.

True luxury is found in immaterial things, such as attention and peace and quiet but, on the other hand, you can also create interaction in the evening by having people share food or participate in the activities at the table. Think, for example, of the success of a classic fondue. For me, an evening out should be a multi-sensory experience, which should stimulate you rather than just being waited on whilst slouched on a chair. Food is more than just something that tastes good. Chefs often want to put too many ingredients on one plate, and present an extensive menu. Try to be yourself. I think you can stand out by doing one thing really well, rather than doing ten things at once. Make the food personal. I think it is important that every chef puts their grandmother’s recipe on the menu. There is so much to discover and experience in our world, because you can look at food from so many different perspectives.

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Debic Collection Xxxxx

Taste the Experience!

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A summer feeling

Coral reef

Sipping a cocktail at the Mambo beach, I thought back to my Greek holidays with my parents. What I remember most are the tomatoes. I have never tasted such delicious tomatoes. From Bordeaux, my memories include many visits to vineyards, symbolized by the ‘ketchup’ of blue grapes. And the shrimps are a souvenir from the trips to the Belgian coast. Three holiday memories in one dish: a modern version of the stuffed tomatoes that were on the menu from the 1950s to the 1980s as an exquisite lunch dish or as a hors d’oeuvre. The modern version consists of a colourful collection of tomatoes with various shrimp preparations: mousse, cracker and salad.

It was a lazy summer’s day in Costa Rica, one of many. The coral reef, the only coral reef on the Caribbean coast, was more inviting than ever. Snorkelling at depth, I was enchanted by an unknown underwater world. Coral with fantastic shapes, fish with strange colours. Those impressions not only accompanied me out of the water, but I also took them home, to my kitchen. I decided to incorporate them in a recipe that would be a tribute to a special world. A dish with simple techniques, but nonetheless innovative.

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For a chef, personal memories or other influences can be a source of inspiration for a dish. Because a dish is never equal to the sum of its ingredients. It is a concept, an idea, a moment of inspiration. Those who can put an experience into a dish, will give every dish just that little bit extra. And experience is everywhere. On the streets, on holiday, in a fashion magazine, during an evening at the theatre or in a shop. Open your mind to that special experience. Add it to the recipe. And you will notice that the sensation is more than the sum of the parts! Debic hereby presents 4 experiences that have resulted in 4 dishes in our collection.

Eau de Cologne

Strawberry fields

Perfume manufacturers know the basics of their trade: a carefully dosed build-up of top notes, middle notes and base notes. One by one, those scents reveal themselves, a unique chemistry of components that enhance one another. So I thought, why couldn’t I make a dessert based on that principle? And just like a perfume, build up a dish layer by layer with different aromas that harmonise surprisingly well? With bergamot sorbet as a citrus-like top note, jasmine, orange blossom and ginger as the middle note, and rosemary and juniper berries as the ultimate sensation in the base note.

A childhood memory, recently discovered in an old photo album. My girlfriend and I, in Paris. The city of eternal romance. That evening, too, in a little restaurant, where a violinist and a pianist played a fantastic interpretation of Strawberry Fields Forever. That unusual combination, the striking arrangement: I was suddenly back in the Paris of those days, and was inspired to combine the romantic creamy and sweet elements in my own creation. Decades later, the ‘strawberries’ received the recognition they deserved, prepared with love.

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Debic Collection Xxxxx

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Grey shrimp espuma 50 20 10 200 100 100 300 5 1

ml g g g ml ml ml g g

Debic Roast & fry shallot, chopped tomato purée shrimp shells Armagnac white wine Debic Cream 35% salt cayenne pepper

Grey shrimp cracker 300 110 150 110 14

g g ml ml g

tapioca flour shrimps shrimp stock water salt

Grape ketchup 500 100 30 25 3 6

g ml g ml g g

red grapes Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar sugar shiro shoyu salt gellan gum

Tomato shrimp salad 500 500 300 500 300 30 50 10 3

g g g g g g ml ml g

grey shrimps San Marzano tomatoes Kumato tomatoes green tomatoes yellow cherry tomatoes shallot, chopped olive oil sherry vinegar salt

Garnish 500 g 200 g

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celery stalks purslane

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Summer feeling Method Sweat the shallots for the espuma in Debic Roast & Fry, add the shrimp shells and the tomato purée. Cook until the shrimp shells start to change colour and then add the wine and the Armagnac. Leave to infuse for 10 minutes and then reduce to half. Remove from the heat, add the cream and finely sieve the contents. Season with salt and cayenne pepper. Cool it down again and store in a dispenser. Aerate using 1 nitrous oxide cartridge and store for later use. Using a food processor, cut the shrimps and mix well with the tapioca flour. Heat the stock with the water and bring to the boil. Leave to cool down to 70 °C and add 220 grams to the tapioca mix. Put the mix on 3 layers of cling fi lm and roll into a sausage. Seal the ends and cook in the oven for 1 hour at 100 °C with steam. Leave in the cold store for one night. Slice at 2mm thickness on the slicing machine and leave to dry for approximately 30 minutes. Briefly deep-fry in hot oil and leave to drain on some kitchen roll. Purée the grapes in the juicer. Collect 350 grams of juice. Mix with the gellan gum and the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil until the ingredients bind together and then cool using ice water. Finely blend the mixture and pass it through a sieve. Store in a small dispenser. Briefly blanch and de-skin the tomatoes. Hollow out the San Marzano and Kumato tomatoes. Brunoise the green tomatoes. Sweat the shallot in the olive oil, add the vinegar and finally the tomatoes. Remove from the heat and keep a small amount of the brunoise tomatoes for the presentation on the plate. Mix the remaining brunoise tomatoes with the shrimps and fi ll the hollowed tomatoes with the shrimp salad. Clean the celery and cut into long ribbons. Place the blanched celery in ice water along with the wild purslane.

Finish Place the tomatoes on the plate and dress the ketchup. Mix the blanched celery, purslane and yellow tomatoes with olive oil and arrange on the plate. Divide the espuma over the hollowed tomatoes and finally place the shrimp cracker on the plate.


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Debic Collection

Coral reef

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Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Beach 250 200 80 25 30 10 5 1 1

ml g g g g g g g g

Debic Roast & Fry miso maltodextrin baby anchovies panko kombu sea salt golden sparkles yellow food colouring

Wakame espuma

Method For the ‘sand’, mix the Debic Roast & Fry with the miso and heat for 30 minutes at 70 °C. Sift through a superbag, cool down to room temperature and store for later use. Fry the anchovies and the panko breadcrumbs and pat dry on kitchen roll. Grind the kombu and mix all dry ingredients with the maltodextrin. Finally, add the Debic Roast & Fry infusion to create a grainy sand structure. Heat the cream and add the chuca wakame. Blend until fine and pass through a fine sieve. Season with salt. Pour into a dispenser and aerate with one nitrous oxide cartridge. Heat the water with the kombu for one hour at 65 °C. Remove the kombu, bring to the boil and add the katsuobushi. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Sift the contents, add the gellan and boil for 2 more minutes. Season with soy sauce and mirin and leave to firm in round flexi pan mats. Wash the octopus and blanch it for 30 seconds. Remove the slime from the tentacles and pat dry. Remove the octopus vacuum with the Debic Roast & Fry and the lemon peel. Cook for 4 hours at 85 °C in a bath of warm water. Cool down and store in the cold store. Thoroughly wash the cockles. Clean the garlic and chop it roughly. Sweat the garlic in the Debic Roast & Fry. Add the cockles and then add the white wine and Noilly Prat. Cook until the shells open. Strain the liquid, dissolve lecithin in it and add the butter. Remove the cockle meat from the shells and store in the cold store. Boil the violet potatoes in the peel for 20 minutes. Remove the peel and leave to soak in cold water for 30 hours. Change the water every 5 hours. The potatoes will change colour from purple to ocean blue. Pat them dry and store in the cold store. Rinse the seaweed, peel the cucumbers and pickle the seaweed and cucumbers in sugared water and white wine vinegar.

Finish Heat the dashi jelly to 65 °C. Season the potatoes and arrange them on top of the jelly. Arrange the sand, seaweed, cucumber and salty fingers on the plate. Heat the octopus and cockles in the sauce and arrange them on the plate. Heat the dispenser in warm water. Squirt the wakame espuma onto the plate. Create a foamy liquid from the cockle juice and distribute it evenly on the dish.

500 ml Debic Culinary Original 150 g Chuca wakame 3 g salt

Hot Dashi jelly 1 8 25 30 20 4

L g g ml ml g

mineral water kombu katsuobushi Japanese soy sauce mirin gellan

Octopus 200 g octopus 100 ml Debic Roast & Fry 1 lemon

Cockles 500 200 100 30 20 150 2

g ml ml g g g g

cockles white wine Noilly Prat garlic parsley Debic traditional butter lecithin

Garnish 1 200 400 125 50 50

kg g g ml ml g

violet potato Irish moss cucumber sugared water white wine vinegar salty fingers

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Debic Collection

Eau de cologne inspired by Chanel Allure Homme sport

Method Heat mandarin purée with agar and bring to the boil. Add orange blossom water and soaked gelatine and leave to boil for a few minutes. Cool down with ice water. Puree, sieve and store in the cold store. Bring the remaining ingredients, except the rosemary, to the boil and leave to simmer at a low heat for 30 minutes whilst stirring. Finally, add the rosemary leaves and leave to rest overnight in the cold store. For the tube, spread the mandarin purée onto a cut-out piece of acetate fi lm. Roll up the fi lm and put it into a metal tube. Cover with a piece of acetate fi lm and with a drop of mandarin purée to seal the tube. Put in the freezer until the jelly is completely frozen. Sieve the rosemary out of the cream and fi ll the tubes with the cream mix. Seal once again with a piece of acetate fi lm and a drop of mandarin purée on the inside. Freeze again completely, take out of the mould and smooth out the imperfections.

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Mix the lemon purée with the konjac gum and the xanthan gum using a hand blender. Clean the ginger and cut into fine slices. Heat the sugar syrup and leave the ginger to infuse. Add the cream and leave for 20 minutes until all the ginger flavour has infused into the liquid. Strain the liquid. Add lemon purée to the hot ginger cream and blend to a homogeneous mass. Incorporate the cubes of butter in the mixture. Pour onto a baking tray covered with greaseproof paper, cover with foil and store in the cold store for a few hours until the mass has fully set. Freeze and cut into long strips. Whip the egg white powder, mandarin purée and jasmine aroma into stiff peaks. Add both sugars gradually Fill a piping bag and pipe the egg whites using a smooth nozzle. Dry for 6 hours at 65 °C and store in a sealed container fi lled with silicon grains. Heat the cream with the sugar, add finely chopped Buddha fingers, and leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Remove the Buddha fingers, add gellan gum and bring to the boil. Cool down using ice water. Puree until fine and strain. Store in the cold store. Grate the peel of the bergamot lemons, squeeze out the juice and store. Bring all ingredients to the boil and heat to 30° brix. Cool down and churn the sorbet in the ice cream machine. Cook the fondant, glucose and isomalt to 155 °C, remove from the heat and the temperature will continue to rise up to 160 °C. Grind the pepper and mix into the hot caramel. Pour the caramel onto a silicon mat and turn into thin confectionery. Break the crispy caramel into pieces and store in a sealed container with the silicon grains. Cut segments out of the grapefruit and cut the mandarin into thin slices.

Finish Build up the dessert in the same way as the perfume and start by arranging the base notes on the plate in the shape of the capsule. Then arrange the middle notes, the flexible ginger pudding. Place a quenelle of bergamot sorbet on the plate together with the other subtle notes of the citrus fruits, lime cress and jasmine flowers.

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Mandarin capsule 400 20 7 2 500 200 50 250 150 5

ml ml g g ml ml ml g g g

mandarin purée orange blossom water agar leaf gelatine Debic Cream 35% gin limoncello sugar glucose rosemary

Ginger knot 100 200 200 200 100 5 3

ml ml ml g g g g

Debic Cream 35% sugared water lemon purée Debic traditional butter ginger konjac gum xanthan gum

Jasmine meringue 130 1 25 30 30

g g g g g

mandarin purée jasmine aroma egg white sugar icing sugar

Bergamot sorbet 500 100 100 30 30 3 1

g ml g g g g

lemon purée water sugar glucose invert sugar lemon bergamot (100 ml) ice-cream stabilizer

Buddha’s hand cream sauce/crème brulèe 300 100 40 2

ml g g g

Debic Culinary Original Buddha’s hand sugar gellan gum

Black pepper caramel 150 75 75 5

g g g g

fondant isomalt sugar glucose black pepper

Garnish 100 350 50 20

g g g g

jasmine flowers red grapefruit mandarins lime cress

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Debic Collection Xxxxx

Strawberry ďŹ elds

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Method

Ingredients

Melt the Debic Panna Cotta and mix with the strawberry purée. Pour into a flexipan mat and allow the panna cotta to set in the cold store. If necessary, freeze it to get it out of the mould more easily. Heat the water and dissolve the sugar in it. Blanch the basil. Pat it dry and cut finely with the sugared water. Mix this with the Debic Tiramisù and then the yoghurt and store in the cold store. For the hangop: hang the yoghurt in a tea towel for 12 hours. Mix the remaining yoghurt with a scraped-out vanilla pod and the icing sugar. For the gazpacho: peel the cucumber and puree with the rest of the ingredients. Sift and bind with xanthan gum. Store in a dispenser in the cold store. Mix the strawberry purée with the xanthan gum. Heat the strawberry purée to approximately 50 °C and dissolve the soaked gelatine in it. Spread onto acetate fi lm and dry for four hours at 40 °C. Cut the strawberries into pieces of similar thickness and marinate them with the sugar and rose water.

Recipe for 10 people

Finish Take the panna cottas out of the freezer and bring them to room temperature. Arrange them on the plate. Make lines on the plate, using 2 drops of yoghurt-basil cream. Place the skin of the strawberries against the panna cotta and finish with the strawberries, yoghurt hangop, gazpacho and lime cress.

Strawberry panna cotta 600 g 400 g

Debic Panna Cotta Mara des Bois purée

Yoghurt-basil cream 350 300 200 100 150

ml g ml g g

Debic Tiramisù Greek yoghurt water sugar basil

Vanilla ‘hangop’ (Dutch buttermilk dessert) 350 g 30 g 1

Greek yoghurt icing sugar vanilla pod

Strawberry gazpacho 350 100 200 35 20 3 2

g g g ml g g g

strawberries Pequillo pepper cucumber sherry vinegar sugar salt xanthan gum

Strawberry leather 500 g 10 g 1 g

Mara des Bois purée leaf gelatine xanthan gum

Marinated strawberries 200 g strawberries 30 g sugar 5 ml rose water

Garnish 20

g

lime cress

23


Interview

Restaurant Le Hangar Reactor of emotions

A modern and daring concept in France, the home of classic French cuisine… Debic went to look and listen to the philosophy and success formula of Le Hangar. A stone’s throw away from Reims, the capital of the Champagne region, we find an industrial zone that seems boring at first glance, but is actually very lively: Les Blancs Monts. A preparation time of 2 years was needed to create this conceptual restaurant, seating 200. Philippe Pawlisiak made a blueprint and worked out the full picture, investing € 1.3 million in his dream.

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Pure passion and business spirit are clearly present during a visit behind the scenes at the Hangar. With a passion inspired by everything related to aviation, visitors are constantly immersed in this retro-American food café with aircraft parts, directions, posters and memorabilia. A cosy crowd for every age category, that’s what Philippe Pawlisiak expects. The restaurant world is constantly under attack: recession, taxes, staff, ingredient prices, competition.

TopGun or Cocktail bar, now also for ladies ‘Reactor of emotions’ is a well thought-out concept. There is always something going on here: the original interior stirs everyone’s imagination, says Philippe Pawlisiak. In this manly TopGun atmosphere, ladies feel comfortable too. “Kids fight for a seat in the authentic aircraft chairs or ask their parents if they can come back for birthdays or first communion parties. People just love surprises.” There is something for all ages. He puts a lot of time and effort into the organization and advertising of extra soirées, events, parties, hen or stag nights, country-and-western parties, a Piña Colada cocktail bar, etc. “Such theme nights are also necessary to keep this business profitable.”

“Reactor of emotions is a well thought-through concept. There is always something going on here.”

25


Interview

“We make the pastries and cakes ourselves, bread comes from a traditional bakery and cream from Debic. Like I said: quality and reliability.”

Fast food and a classic brasserie kitchen - the ideal mix You could almost ignore the fact that in the kitchen a well-oiled crew has to keep everything running smoothly. “Fresh, high quality, home-made and speed: those were the guidelines for our menu. It is also a good example of our kitchen philosophy. I don’t want to use the term ‘fast food’, because we serve original American hamburgers. This meat and the quality of our bread earn us our reputation. Of course we also serve pasta and steaks with classically prepared cream sauces. The quality and reliability of the ingredients are very important to us. All our meat is Simmental quality from Austria. We make the pastries and cakes ourselves, bread comes from a traditional bakery and cream from Debic. As I said: quality and reliability.”

Dessert ideas “Because I want to invest all my energy in the restaurant and make the guests feel relaxed and comfortable, I don’t prepare crème brulée or panna cotta myself. On the other hand, I can’t but offer these classic dishes. That is why the Debic dessert line is a fantastic solution for our business.” “We try hard to generate extra turnover. We always ask whether a customer wants an aperitif (nice to have in this Champagne region – editor’s note) Or enthusiastically present the house desserts, stressing the fact that they are home-made. A second coffee encourages the Café Gourmand.”

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Identikit Manager: Philippe Pawlisiak Born: 1965 in Reims, France Education: Lycée Gustave Eiffel - Reims Work experience: Switzerland: restaurant Les Glycines France: Flo Brasserie & Traiteur Paris Reims: Le Continental Management & sales positions at Miko and Brake France Restaurant Le Hangar ZAC Les Blancs Monts 51350 Cormontreuil France +33 326 242 254 www.lehangar51.com

Internal and external communication Everything depends on communicating internal and external messages clearly and regularly. “Externally, I spend a significant amount of my budget on promotion at bus stops, along access roads, on the regional radio and in the press. Probably 2 to 3% of my turnover. Internal communication manifests itself in menus, display screens, flyers, on Facebook and on our website. But good internal communication also means that all employees know, promulgate and uphold the Hangar philosophy perfectly.”

Without employees you are nothing “We have deliberately waited a long time to start this business, because we were striving for a kind of perfection. You have to believe in it and that is the best motivator to make your business successful. Without craftsmanship and without employees, you are nothing. Being passionate and driven when you start your job gives you so much energy and that enthusiasm infects others. I myself like to circulate among the guests in the restaurant. I see every table, note the signs of a hesitant or disgruntled customer and I resolve that. Nobody should be waiting for more than one minute to be greeted, and everyone is personally escorted to their table. This may be a standard procedure in a gastronomic restaurant, but it is a positive added bonus for a classic brasserie kitchen.”

Vision of the future “After two and a half years, I am now trying to raise the financial and qualitative levels, but my intentionis to commercialize this concept for the people wishing to have a franchise. The first legal and technical steps have been made.” 27


Limitless Xxxxx

Get more out of Debic Debic offers an extensive product range. These products have been developed specially for use in professional kitchens. Not only do they offer consistent quality and convenience, but also the scope for the chef to add an individual touch to the dish. With the Debic products as your base, you can achieve various tastes and textures that give your dishes added value. The possibilities in the kitchen are infinite. The following pages contain a number of applications and useful tips for getting even greater satisfaction from your Debic range.

Parsley croûte Method Pick the parsley for the parsley crust and blend together with the Debic Roast and Spread. Add the white bread and season with salt. Roll out thinly between 2 sheets of baking paper, place in the freezer and cut to size when frozen.

Finish Place the croûte on top of the fish and cook in the oven or under the salamander.

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Parsley croûte 200 75 200 3

28

g g g g

Debic Roast & Spread flat parsley white bread without a crust salt

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Cauliflower Panna Cotta Method Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Cauliflower Panna Cotta 700 800 40 8 20 10 7

ml g g g g g g

Debic Culinaire Original cauliflower Debic traditional butter leaf gelatine salmon eggs micro parsley salt

Cook the cauliflower in the cream by using a thermoblender and puree for half an hour at 90 °C. Pass through a fine sieve, add butter and mix with the pre-soaked gelatine. Season with salt and then portion out into glasses.

Finish Store in the cold store for a minimum of 4 hours. Finish with salmon eggs and the micro parsley.

Deluxe coffee Method Melt the panna cotta and mix with the crème anglaise. Portion it out into glasses and store in the cold store.

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Deluxe coffee

Finish Take the glass out of the cold store in good time and allow it to return to room temperature. Place the cup under the coffee machine and fi ll the glass with an espresso.

600 g Debic Panna Cotta 300 ml Debic Bourbon Anglaise 10 cups of espresso

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Limitless Xxxxx

Cream paper Method Bring the water to the boil, then add the methyl cellulose and the salt. Mix the whipped cream and the cream cheese and then cool to kitchen temperature. Spread this mixture thinly on the silicon paper and leave to dry overnight at kitchen temperature. Break into pieces and store in a sealed container with the silicon grains.

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Cream crisp 100 100 50 6 1,5

ml g g g g

Debic Cream 35% fresh cream cheese water methyl cellulose salt

Caesar dressing Thousand Island dressing Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Caesar dressing 400 40 20 40 35 20 10

ml g g g g g g

Debic Culinary Original anchovies, in oil Dijon mustard Parmesan cheese, grated lemon juice white wine vinegar black pepper, ground

Thousand Island dressing 500 100 100 100 5 10 5 5 20 20 20

30

ml g g ml g g g g g g

Debic Culinaire Original Dijon mustard white wine vinegar tomato juice paprika powder a few drops of Tabasco salt icing sugar parsley, finely chopped chives, finely chopped green olives, finely chopped

| Debic Magazine

Method For the dressing, mix all the ingredients apart from the cooking cream. Whilst stirring, add the cooking cream until you have a homogeneous mass. It is also possible to prepare the dressing in a blender or with a hand blender. Fill a dispenser with the dressing and store in the cold store.


Did you know that... A croûte is a great way to give meat and fish dishes just that little bit extra in taste and texture. In France, a croûte is called ‘Viennoise’. The croûte may contain, among other things, herbs, truffle, cheese and spices or condiments. The croûtes are easy to prepare and can be processed when frozen. Dressings based on Debic Culinary Original will not curdle or separate after they have been prepared. Thanks to the acidity of the dressing, it binds naturally, which gives the dressing a perfect consistency. Dressings based on the Debic cooking cream can be prepared in large quantities and stored in the freezer. Coffee time is the ideal moment for generating added turnover and leaving your guests with a final fantastic impression. The savoury cauliflower panna cotta can be used as an excellent amuse bouche or Aperitivo. See page 32.

31


Xxxxx Report

Aperitivo in Milan As night falls, the Milanese go to their favourite bar to enjoy the social tradition, the Aperitivo. Debic visited the most fashion-conscious city in the world, went looking for the secret behind the success of the Aperitivo, and inserted it in its own collection.

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Aperitivo Traditionally and strictly speaking, an aperitif is a drink that is served to whet the appetite. Twenty years ago, few catering businesses made use of the Aperitivo time, which is every day from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.. The aperitif has now grown into a true experience and a new eating opportunity. Restaurants and bars try to outdo each other with the most extensive cocktail menu and a large buffet of free finger food. In some bars in Milan, it is mainly about image - just like in the fashion industry.

Traditional or modern Guests can opt for a traditional bar where they can enjoy a classic Americano with crisps, olives or risotto alla Milanese. The fashion-conscious Milanese chooses the trendy Armani bar, the Just Cavalli café or the Bulgari hotel with luxury finger food and sushi. What really matters here is the experience of the Aperitivo that dovetails perfectly with the favourite luxury clothing brand. Aperitivo is booming business and has become a huge success over the years, with every catering business in Milan contributing to this by applying the Aperitivo concept at the right time of day. For this reason, it cannot be compared to a happy hour, where the drinks are offered at a considerable discount.

The Aperitivo success story works as follows: the guest orders an aperitif, a cocktail or a glass of prosecco and the cost of this can be even the double of what they normally spend. Armed with a drink, the guest is then offered a free buffet fi lled with small snacks and bites. A winning formula for the catering industry, which manages to generate additional turnover within a brief two-hour period. And it obviously works, as we saw during our visits to various bars and restaurants. In particular at the trendy Fashion Cafés, where it is a question of seeing and being seen, it is not easy to find an empty chair. How to cash in on this trend? This is not easy to answer since not all cultures and customs can be transposed so easily. But it is an opportunity that can be encouraged in large or trendy cities. Just look at the tapas trend which has come over from Spain or the sushi and oyster bars in Paris and London.

33


Report

Gualtiero Marchesi During our Aperitivo walk, we also went to the prestigious Ristorante Teatro alla Scala il Marchesino. We exchanged and compared our experiences with the grand master of the modern Milanese kitchen, Gualtiero Marchesi. He was the first Italian chef with three Michelin stars. Despite his respectable age, the chef still moves with the times: he combines traditional Italian cuisine with modern components and even Japanese influences. Marchesi caused an uproar by creating culinary masterpieces from simple pasta dishes.

“This top location and the style and philosophy of the restaurant are reflected in our Aperitivo hour. We choose for an elegant aperitif without an extensive buffet, but with a selection of signature dishes, presented on a small plate.” Gualtiero Marchesi

Gualtiero Marchesi gets a lot of inspiration from art. For example, his dish ‘dripping di pesce’ is a tribute to the ‘dripping technique’ of painter Jackson Pollock. At il Marchesino, the Aperitivo is always concluded with a small portion of the famous ‘golden risotto’, or riso oro e zafferano, which is presented as an abstract painting of Risotto à la Milanese garnished with gold leaf. “Italians often combine food with a night out.” Executive Chef Daniel Canzian adds that this setting is an ideal situation by beginning the evening with the Aperitivo, followed by a classical opera at the La Scala opera house, and finishing off the evening with dinner.

Aperitivo Debic style Daniel Canzian

Crispy bread cannelloni with avocado crème

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During our visit to Milan, we were inundated with various snacks and dishes. We were duly inspired and promptly developed a Debic collection with Aperitivo bites and snacks, which can be offered with a drink. From a savoury crème brûlée to crispy bread canneloni and black olive crackers. The example of Marije Vogelsang and her tattooed bell peppers (page 12) has also been converted into an Aperitivo snack with a mini-pepper being stuffed with a classic salad. The main ingredient is communicated on the outside by tattooing the peppers with food colouring. We opt for an elegant aperitif without an elaborate buffet, but with a selection of signature dishes, presented on a small plate.

Parmesan crème brûlée

Tattooed bell peppers stuffed with various salads

Savoury cheese profiterole with vitello tonnato mousse


Olive cracker Every Italian Aperitivo should be accompanied by crisps and olives. This recipe is a combination of both ingredients, which makes it ideally suited to be served with a drink.

Method Drain the olives and chop them finely. Mix the olives with the tapioca starch. Boil the stock and brine of the olives and add 220 grams of the mix to the starch mix. Mix the dough and leave to cool to room temperature. Roll the dough into a sausage between three layers of cling fi lm. Prick holes in the fi lm and cook for at least 1 hour at 100 °C with steam. Leave to rest overnight in the cold store and then slice, on the slicing machine, at 2.2 mm thickness. Cut the slices into the desired shape and dry for 30 minutes at 60 °C. Briefly fry the crackers at 170 °C in hot oil.

Ingredients Recipe for 10 people

Olive cracker 130 330 175 175

g g g g

black olives tapioca starch poultry stock brine from olives

for these recipes, please go to www.debic.com

35


In the end it’s the quality of the cream that counts. Nothing like perfectly whipped cream to add the finishing touch to 101 applications. Make sure you get the best cream in its most efficient form, thanks to a smart handle for maximal usability. This is professional quality you can rely on. Always.

Demand perfection. Rely on Debic.

www.debic.com


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