3 minute read
Wandering Westies: a trip to Tawharanui
“Why can’t the rats just go around the fence?” That’s the question MICK ANDREW asked when he first visited Tawharanui Regional Park – an open eco sanctuary an hour’s drive north of Auckland.
The fence is a predator-proof barricade that spans the width of the peninsula but then curls around on itself at the edge of the sand, leaving a sizeable gap that possums, stoats and rats could use to get in. Apparently, they do occasionally. But the surveillance system is so sophisticated the rangers know exactly when and what to do when it happens.
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Fortunately humans are welcome, and we gain entry by driving up to the automatic gate-which opens on approach.
Looking back over Tawharanui’s beaches. Photo: by Bevis England.
For bird lovers – or for anyone really – Tawharanui is a paradise. Being at the end of a peninsula, it has been effectively isolated from the mainland, allowing populations of rare and recovering birds to thrive without predation.
You could easily spend a weekend staying at the camp ground, exploring the various tracks and gorgeous beaches. For day-trippers however, the 2-hour ecology trail is a comprehensive way to sample the park and see the wildlife.
Starting at the Anchor Bay picnic area, we follow the gravel road east passing the golden sand and an information shelter, before entering the bush.
The most noticeable difference between this park and unprotected sites on the mainland is the birdsong. Few places in New Zealand can
replicate the pre-mammal bird chorus that once resonated countrywide, but Tawharanui makes a solid attempt.
Tui are of course abundant and boisterous, but as we trek further into the bush we start to hear bellbirds, kākā and even the shrill, pulsing call of tīeke or saddleback, a black and orange species of wattle bird that only exists on the mainland in sanctuaries.
The track passes through a colossal pūriri grove, before traversing a series of boardwalks and bridges. We then reach a junction, with the left route winding up through the forest to the northern side of the peninsula. We take the right along Fisherman’s Track, and soon leave the bush and walk up a hill through farmland.
Once at the top the views of the surrounding ocean are striking. Verdant Kawau Island dominates the south, and Great Barrier Island rises like a primeval volcano to the east.
There is short sidewalk to Takatū Point lookout at the very tip of the peninsula, otherwise the main walk itself continues around the edge of the peninsula running back toward the car park.
Pūkeko aren’t the most exciting animal, but every time I see one at Tawharanui I give a false jump of surprise. The scrawny purple birds bear a considerable resemblance to one of New Zealand’s rarest creatures, eight of which live in the park.
Finally, after misidentifying countless pūkeko on the return leg, I spot them ... four South Island takahē, lumbering, dinosaur-like birds that move quietly though the grass, grazing for grubs and shoots amongst the cows.
Once you see them, they are very distinct from pūkeko – bigger and sturdier with a blue-green plume.
Once widely spread across the South Island, there are now only 400 remaining although the population is increasing. A few takahē were relocated in Tawharanui in 2014 and the lack of predators has meant that these birds can breed and graze in peace.
It’s a satisfying thing, seeing a bird of such rarity. The next goal is stay in the camp ground, and come out at night with a red light. Tawharanui, after all, is great place to spot kiwi. The predator proof fence at Tawharanui. Photo: Creative Commons.
