Walking West, Omanawanui reopens

The reopening of a Waitãkere gem

It used to be regarded as the Waitākere Ranges’ best kept secret – a hidden gem, tucked away alongside the sparkling waters of the Manukau harbour near Whatipu. There’s certainly nothing secret about the Omanawanui Track now however, after it reopened in March following a two year period when it was closed for extensive upgrades.

Maybe it was because of the media attention about the reopening, or the fact that people have been craving a decent walk for so long, but on the Saturday we visited Whatipu in early March, there were more people on the track than I’d ever seen on a single Waitākere Walk.

When approaching from the Huia side, there’s a small car park along the side of the road where you can park to do the walk from east to west. However, the small bay was overflowing with parked cars so we drove down to Whatipu to start the walk from the other direction.

Taking about four hours return, it starts just before the path to the beach; an ascent up the hill after going through the newly installed kauri dieback station. The work that’s been done on the track is immediately clear: new gravel packed tightly onto jack mesh to prevent any movement of soil and the spread of kauri dieback.

From this direction the track climbs steeply for 30 minutes, passing a side track out to Wing Head, before winding up to the first summit with amazing views over the Manukau and down the southern coast toward Port Waikato. About 30 people stood on the summit, jostling for space to take in the view. To the west the Whatipu wetlands stretch out below like the Serengeti Plains, while far to the south we can just make out Mt Karioi near Raglan.

Pressing on, we begin descending the first bluff, following the gravel track, which is interrupted occasionally with rocky sections with the old chain ropes still remaining. Near the trough of the valley, the track changes into an extensive network of winding boardwalks and steps, complete with rope handles that give it the look of an amusement park attraction and makes the walk much easier than it used to be. We climb the next bluff for 30 minutes, eventually reaching the highest point of the track near the trig, which has been upgraded with a wide wooden platform, and press on toward the second half of the track; into another valley and then up into the bush and alongside the road. Half-an-hour from the end, we turn around and head back along the track with its beautiful views, rather than along the gravel road. As we re-enter the boardwalk section of the track, you can’t but be impressed with the effort that’s gone into upgrading this walk.

However, I found myself asking if it was all really necessary to prevent kauri dieback. The new gravel and hygiene stations are obviously critical, and possibly the board walks. But the hundreds of metres of rope and timber posts seem like a superfluous addition that serves no purpose other than aesthetics. People can easily go under or over the rope to get off the track if they wish. And if it’s for safety, then the council should replace the old chain ropes as well.

While I’m all for creative designs and ‘enhanced’ experience, to spend more money on appearances at a time when the council’s budget is stretched seems like an irresponsible use of resources.

Most people will no doubt enjoy the new boardwalk design – even if it is just for the aesthetics. As for me, I’m of the opinion that no amount of gravel, timber or concrete can ever improve on the natural beauty of a great bush walk.

Omanawanui Track: ‘no amount of gravel, timber or concrete can ever improve on the natural beauty of a great bush walk’.

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