2019 Frontiers Elegant Journeys Latitudes by Frontiers Travel

Latitudes Elegant Journeys

C E L E B R AT I N G 5 0 Y E A R S O F B E S P O K E T R AV E L Issue 11 â&#x20AC;¢ Winter 2019

The Art of Conversation Mollie Fitzgerald

’m grateful to my parents, Mike and Susie Fitzgerald, for introducing their particular strain of wanderlust into our family’s DNA. Fifty years ago, they courageously and passionately followed a dream with the start of Frontiers, and my brother and I are honored to carry their legacy forward. The concept of creating a full-service travel consultancy offering unbiased advice was born out of their frustrations in planning their own personal travel. Their pioneer spirit, steadfast determination, firsthand credibility, and unfailing attention to detail served them well, and these principles continue to guide and inspire us today. The past 50 years have seen the extinction of the telex, the rise and fall of the fax machine, and the epic reliance

upon smartphones and email. Supersonic travel has come and gone, and iconic airlines like Pan Am and TWA have been replaced by low-cost internet carriers. Spas and gyms have replaced discos in hotels, and today’s luxury traveler looks for newfangled amenities like high thread counts, a pillow menu, and the prerequisite Nespresso machine. How did we ever live without coffee pods? I read recently that croissants and doughnuts have morphed into something called a “cronut,” and you have to wonder what might be next! The advent of molecular gastronomy has given rise to new culinary terms like “foam,” “spherification of juices,” and “burning sherbets”—what’s more is how restaurants specializing in this scientific approach—El Bulli, Noma, the Fat Duck,

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and others—have taken on sacred-temple status worthy of international pilgrimages from devout followers. Instagram has given shape and definition to our bucket lists and allowed us to share a plethora of experiences immediately with others. People unabashedly talk about FOMO (fear of missing out), as a great photo can be so aspirational. With the advent of travel aggregators like Expedia.com or Travelocity, one might question the relevance of a travel agent in today’s modern environment; however, we believe that the role of a travel consultant is more important than ever to help you navigate the myriad of options out there. Travel has become much more experiential, and therein lies the true luxury—the focus has shifted away from the experience of luxury and is now about the luxury of the experience. Things like getting to Everest Base Camp or tracking mountain gorillas in an African forest, attending the Pushkar Camel Fair or seeing the Aurora Borealis, don’t just magically happen as easily as they may seem on Instagram—they happen off the back of a lot of careful planning and logistical arrangement. While so much has changed in 50 years, the one thing that hasn’t changed is the value of the conversation. Every great trip starts with a conversation. We gather so much valuable information in a 15-minute phone call about your interests, preferences, and objectives, all of which will serve as a road map to us for the blueprint of your trip. One of my core philosophies is the “lost art of listening”—really listening to you. So please invest 15 minutes in your travel plans, give us a call, and let’s start the conversation. n

Table of Contents The Art of Conversation......................................................... 2 Where We’ve Been Lately....................................................... 4 What’s Caught Our Attention.............................................. 12 Before You Go....................................................................... 17 Australia Just Another Day in W.A. – Western Australia................... 18 Japan Japan – Land of Protocols and Quirkiness......................... 20 China Tibet: Roof of the World....................................................... 26 Morocco Girls Just Wanna Have Fun!.................................................. 32 Poland Remembering the Recent Past............................................ 36 Barging & River Cruising in Europe European Canal Barging – Three Reasons......................... 40 European River Cruise Control............................................ 44 Iceland Activities for Your Next Iceland Adventure........................ 46 Deplar Farm : Exploring Iceland’s Troll Peninsula............. 50 The Retreat at The Blue Lagoon Sets a New Luxury Standard For Iceland............................... 54 Norway Dances with Wolves (and Northern Lights)....................... 56 Africa Revisiting Rwanda................................................................. 60

“Congratulations on 50 years of Frontiers! I’ve said before and believe it is more relevant than ever; the advisors who will survive and thrive in today’s complex world are those with the unique ability to deliver advice, access, advocacy and accountability; a combination impossible to replicate with any other booking channel. Frontiers Travel epitomizes those abilities, coupled with a joie de vivre that makes the travel planning process personal, customizable and just plain fun. We are proud to have you in our Virtuoso family and wish you all future success.” Matthew D. Upchurch, Chairman & CEO Virtuoso, Ltd.

Zimbabwe Back on the Radar............................................. 63 Africa’s Call of the Wild......................................................... 64 Madagascar, a Kaleidoscope of Nature!............................ 68 Caribbean Caribbean Update and Yoga Retreats................................ 72 South America The Hidden Gems of Argentina........................................... 74 What’s New in South America............................................. 78 United States A Wonderful Getaway to the Wine Country...................... 84 Air Update You Can Get There From Here............................................ 88 Airport Lounges – Where to Go to Escape the Gate......... 90 Italy Tuscany: A Photo Essay........................................................ 92

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Jill Jergel in Lucerne, Switzerland with Mt. Pilatus peeking through the clouds

Leigh Buches makes friends with the Icelandic horses in the Golden Circle

Where We’ve Been Lately

Frontiers’ unparalleled destination knowledge truly sets us apart from our industry peers. We invest tens of thousands of miles in our staff every year, evaluating new destinations, revisiting old favorites, staying current on hotels and restaurants, and sourcing guides, drivers and personal contacts all with your next trip in mind. We share your passion for travel! No one is better positioned to answer the question in the affirmative when you next call and ask, “Have you been there?”

Shelley Sistek takes the plunge off Kawarau Bundy Bridge in Kawarau, New Zealand

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Mollie Fitzgerald enjoys breakfast with friends at Giraffe Manor in Nairobi, Kenya

Bethany Hunkele enjoys the scenery while cruising the Briare Canal onboard the Meanderer

Lynda McDonough visits with members of the Embera tribe in Panama

Mike and Kristene Fitzgerald indulge at a SeaDream beach picnic in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Islands

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Kristene Fitzgerald swims with the Whale Sharks on the Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia

Susan Lloyd at Hotel L’Andana in Tuscany testing out a vintage Fiat 500

Where We’ve Been Lately Mike Fitzgerald on Tasmania’s Central Plateau

Beth Kurcina and Maddalena Traversini (Destination Asia) enjoying traditional fare and sake at Ryokan Biyu No Yado in Yudanaka, Japan

Eileen Datt flying in style onboard an Emirates flight to Dubai

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Michelle and Hannah Llewellyn enjoy a perfect day for a desert walk and beach party in Playa Ayla in Islas San Francisco

Linda Rumburg and husband, Wayne kayaking through Alaska onboard UnCruise

Kathy Schulz enjoying sundowners in the Serengeti at Singita’s Sabora Tented Camp

Melissa Askey cross country skiing in the pristine Montana wilderness at The Ranch at Rock Creek

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Shelley Sistek’s new friend Claire the koala in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia

Mollie Fitzgerald and daughter, Abby, on the trek to Tiger’s Nest in Taktshang, Bhutan

Cindy Smith visits Trianon Palace in Versailles

Kim Shumaker visits the remnants of the Berlin Wall in Germany

Jaye Austin up close and personal during a morning game drive at Belmond’s Savute Elephant Camp, Chobe National Park, Bostwana

Elaine Wissolik with the widow of artisan Alfonso Guzman – they still create ponchos and cloth, Salta, Argentina

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Eileen Datt getting acquainted with a common brown lemur in Madagascar

Mollie Fitzgerald takes a private gelato making class with the world champion Dondoli father/son team in San Gimignano

Where We’ve Been Lately Mollie Fitzgerald enjoys private flowering arranging class at Tuscany’s Borgo Santo Pietro

Beth Kurcina at the Catholic Pilgrimage site dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and where the three shepherd children witnessed several apparitions in Fatima, Portugal

Tarquin Millington-Drake setting up our cover photo of Mt. Everest; Pangla Pass, Tibet

Jill Jergel was one of three barge specialists selected for the summer 2018 maiden voyage of Belmond’s beautiful new barge cruising in Champagne called Pivoine

Anne Burgard reaches new heights in Machu Picchu

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Kristen Priestley enjoys a guided day trip to Pompeii, Italy

Joe Brozick ready to bike along the Danube River in Passau, Germany during his cruise with AmaWaterways

Lynda McDonough mixes her own mojito at the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, in Rio Grande, Puerto Rico

Where We’ve Been Lately Kristene Fitzgerald enjoying a long London weekend

Mike and Kristene Fitzgerald hiking New Zealand’s Routeburn Track

Vicki Abel visits the Great Wall of China during her trip to China with Abercrombie and Kent

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What’s Caught Our

Attention

Papal Audience, Rome

Sheldon Chalet, Alaska

Rome is home to countless treasures. From artistic masterpieces to religious monuments and historical wonders to culinary delights, the Eternal City offers an endless list of activities for travelers. One memorable experience you might consider is the Papal Audience at Vatican City.

A one-of-a-kind, year-round property perched on 4.9 acres of ice and glacier in Alaska’s famed Denali Mountains, Sheldon Chalet is an extraordinary new property! This is the only private land on Denali and sits at 6,000 feet elevation, surrounded by the most stunning views. This five-bedroom property can only be reached via helicopter, offering an incredible private stay complete with two private guides, a chef, and a concierge.

Pope Francis, like his predecessors, holds a general audience weekly in St. Peter’s Square. Each Wednesday at 10:30 a.m., the Pope rides through the crowded square in the “Pope mobile” stopping often to kiss babies, shake hands with his followers, and have his picture taken—before presiding over an hour-long multilingual service. During warmer months, the audience is held outdoors in St. Peter’s Square. During colder seasons, the ceremony is held indoors in the Paul VI Audience Hall. Frontiers Destination Specialist Beth Kurcina can also arrange your visit and include a private guided experience throughout the Vatican museums, including the Sistine Chapel. n

While the chalet is anchored in granite, the inside includes plush but cozy accommodations paired with all the fine amenities of a five-star hotel. Your guest concierge can take care of your every need, while your guides are available to plan incredible personalized excursions and adventures. All Sheldon Chalet meals and snacks are prepared by the private chef with personalized table service, and the cuisine includes fabulous fresh Alaskan seafood and other traditional foods along with fine wines, spirits, and beers. n

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Islas Secas, Private Islands in Panama An elite stay on a private island limited to 18 guests, this experience includes the exclusive use of 14 other islands nestled along the coast of Panama’s southwest shoreline for water sports of all types. With stunning views and incredible opportunities to experience uninterrupted nature, this pristine island focuses on sustainable tourism with a true respect for the ecosystem and practices excellent stewardship to the land. There are a variety of unique experiences for active and adventurous travelers of all ages, including various water sports as well as fly fishing. You will enjoy amazing all-inclusive meals prepared fresh from the sea to the table by a highly skilled culinary team. Including accommodations for couples and families, Islas Secas has nine ocean-front casitas spread across four sites, each made to feel like you are on your own private island! Frontiers Destination Specialist Lynda McDonough has recently visited Islas Secas and would love to tell you more about this one-ofa-kind property. n

Snowga—Exclusive Outdoor Fitness, The Ranch at Rock Creek Warm up with a snowshoe hike to a mountaintop or a snow meadow! Standing yoga poses will help you improve your stability and balance and bring you peace of mind. It’s easier to become more mindful of breathing, as a white mist follows each and every exhalation as you are surrounded by the beautiful wilderness of Big Sky Country. Extended poses and hot tea will keep your body warm before a snowshoe trek back to the fire-heated accommodations at The Ranch at Rock Creek. The Granite spa also offers an après-ski yoga option in winter. You can finish an active day of cross-country or downhill skiing at Discovery Ski Area with a rejuvenating restorative practice. Taking the time to soothe muscles will combat fatigue and leave you feeling refreshed and restored! n

Four Seasons Maldives Rooftop Yoga, Ritz Carlton Chicago Relax and unwind with rooftop yoga on the 75th floor of the Ritz Carlton Chicago. Enjoy a one-of-a-kind Hatha yoga class that emphasizes deep internal focus in a relaxed state, utilizing the breath and energy flow. Classes are a 75-minute experience that are held in the early mornings Thursday through Sunday, weather permitting. Enjoy the tranquility from above; the Ritz Carlton will provide mats, towels, and water for guests. n

Take an exhilarating speedboat trip to the hotspots, where you can snorkel with mass gatherings of manta rays and whale sharks (from June to October). Join the Maldives’ only full-time manta ray research project. Swim with dolphins and turtles in the lagoon. Help restore the previously empty reef flats and help them flourish into thriving coral ecosystems. Enjoy all of this plus seaplane transfers and daily breakfast as a part of your stay. n (Continued on next page)

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What’s Caught Our Attention

VIK—Very Important Kids—Program, Kulm St. Moritz The Kulm Hotel in St. Moritz offers carefree family holidays with extra attention focused on their littlest guests. They offer a special children’s program, VIK (Very Important Kids), which includes professional childcare to ensure that both children and their parents alike enjoy every minute of their stay. With varied weekly children’s programs for three-year-olds all the way to those in their teens, they offer something for everyone, with no repeat activities. Upon check-in children receive their VIK pass and are immediately free to order unlimited hot chocolate and ice cream sundaes whenever they like, before even being shown their room. From pizza-making lessons to free group snowboarding and skiing lessons, tennis lessons (outdoor activities are depending on season), fabric painting, special dinners, and movie nights, there is nothing children can’t enjoy during their stay! n

“I would like to extend my heartiest congratulations to Frontiers International Travel on completing 50 glorious years of providing unmatched personalised service and unmatched destination knowledge to ardent travellers. Here’s wishing them the very best for all their upcoming endeavours.” Mr. Vikram Oberoi, Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer, The Oberoi Group

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Bridal Boot Camp, Park Hyatt Aviara Resort Get wedding-day ready with VeraVia’s three-night bridal boot camp, the perfect way to get a powerful jump-start to help brides and bridal party members get ready for the big day. Target your specific goals to look and feel your absolute best on your best day ever! Enjoy relaxing and unwinding at Aviara Spa so that you are refreshed for the big day. Take home your personalized wellness advice and food guidelines to ensure that you can maintain your new and improved habits. We think this is the perfect idea for a bachelorette weekend! n

Belmond Grand Hotel Europe’s Vodka Sommelier, St. Petersburg, Russia Let Belmond Grand Hotel Europe’s executive chef, Alexander Dmitriev, guide you through classic caviar and vodka pairings. Immerse yourself in a world of wonderful Russian cuisine, and learn more about caviar, or “black gold,” with these exclusive classes. Also enjoy lively cocktail demonstrations or indulge in vodka-themed excursions and treatments in their beauty salon. n

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and learning in an exciting and stimulating environment. Embark on a journey of discovery with this privately guided, seven-day small group departure to Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa. You will stay at andBeyond’s Phinda Zuka Lodge located in the southern reaches of andBeyond’s Phinda Private Game Reserve, which offers its own private vehicle, guide, butler, and chef. Guests are exposed to authentic and exclusive community and conservation experiences, as well as gaining insight into Zulu culture.

Urban Glamping, Four Seasons Hotel Beverly Wilshire With sweeping views of the Hollywood Hills and the added sparkle from the night sky, this is not your typical camping experience. Perched high above Rodeo Drive, your 2,140-square-foot terrace becomes the setting of a new type of outdoor adventure. Escape to the 10-foottall tent for two, illuminated by a crystal chandelier and marble lamps, outfitted with a queen-sized Four Seasons bed, and also including signature antique nightstands with fur rugs. This setting couldn’t be more spectacular. You’ll forget you are in the heart of Los Angeles and not on an intimate safari! Enjoy the terrace’s gas fireplace and unwind with specialty cocktails like a Flaming Sorbet while a Four Seasons chef prepares an eight-course tasting menu featuring seasonal ingredients. End your al fresco meal with Pastry Chef Chris Ford’s indulgent s’mores made with 24-karat gold and elegantly paired with a vintage champagne flight. Perfect for couples or groups, this city escape couldn’t be more out of this world. n

The Phinda Impact Journey, andBeyond South Africa Perfect for those who wish to travel with purpose, this experience offers a fantastic opportunity for growth

The daily schedule includes conservation and community development activities such as spending a day in a local village, bush walks, learning what it takes to be a qualified andBeyond guide and/or ranger, tracking, tree and plant identification, participating in a rhino notching or collaring exercise in order to better locate rhinos for monitoring purposes, spending a morning at Nkomo Primary School, serving lunch for children at the OVC Centre (Orphans and Vulnerable Children Centre), and following andBeyond’s ethos of “leaving the world a better place than we found it.” n

The Private Suite at LAX Typically it takes a total of 2,200 steps from your car to your plane seat. For members of the Private Suite, it’s a total of 70 peaceful steps. The Private Suite is a newly built private terminal that includes 13 private suites within a new gate into LAX. It is far enough from the traffic surrounding the airport that members don’t wait in crowded lines because private TSA screening is done in their building. Members don’t walk down long, crowded concourses, line up at ticket counters of boarding gates, or deal with baggage—you will spend your preflight time in a totally private suite with its own bathroom, complimentary food-service pantry, two-person daybed, and runway view of aircrafts landing and taking off. When it’s time for you to board, you will be driven across the tarmac in style in a luxurious BMW 7 Series sedan, and taken directly to your aircraft. While this is currently only available at LAX, we are excited to share that the Private Suite is planning to add two additional private terminals in JFK and Miami in 2019! n

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Virtuoso Benefits: Let us Put Our Exclusive Affiliation to Work for You

s a longstanding member of Virtuoso, Frontiers is able to offer you exclusive benefits from within our global network of preferred travel partners. This includes top luxury hotels, cruise lines, best specialist guides, and more. Our attention to detail goes well beyond the status quo—once we understand your individual interests and preferences, we use our travel expertise and our Virtuoso relationships to create your dream itinerary. As your trusted “experience curator” we are here for you before, during, and after your trip, and we look forward to customizing your next amazing travel experience.

Virtuoso Benefits Include: Hotel and Resort Benefits • Preferred rates and availability • Room upgrade upon arrival, subject to availability • Added amenities (minimum of $100 value) such as spa credit or food-and-beverage credit • Daily breakfast for two • Early check-in and late check-out, subject to availability • Complimentary Wi-Fi Cruise Benefits • Your choice of shipboard credit or Virtuosoexclusive shore excursions • Dedicated onboard hosts n

Before You Go Kristene Fitzgerald

CHECK THE EXPIRATION DATE ON YOUR PASSPORT. Most countries require your passport to be valid six months beyond your date of travel. Make sure you have enough blank pages available in your passport for any visas. It is also helpful to travel with copies of your passport and extra passport pictures and identification cards in the event they are lost or stolen while traveling. CONTACT YOUR CREDIT CARD COMPANY. Providing the destinations and dates of travel will eliminate potential usage interruptions as a security warning from overseas, or out-of-area charges. Know the phone number of your credit card company in case you encounter unexpected problems. DOWNLOAD YOUR AIRLINE APPS. This can be critical in keeping you up to date with any schedule changes while you are traveling. Most will let you check in remotely to download your boarding passes directly to your phone. ACTIVATE YOUR PHONE’S GLOBAL CAPACITIES. Upgrading to an international package will ensure you can stay connected while you are on the road and can be essential for reaching drivers and guides if your flight is delayed.

Okay, your flights and hotels are booked, the dates are on the calendar—now it is time to make sure you are prepared for your next big adventure. Whether you are traveling domestically or to the other side of the world, careful planning goes a long way to ensure you have a successful trip. CASH IS KING. Not all places accept credit cards, and having local currency on hand is advisable, especially for taxis and gratuities. ATM machines are usually readily accessible in most international airports upon arrival and will give you the best rate of exchange. Some countries (for example, Myanmar) where credit card usage is limited still require new, crisp bills! We suggest small denominations for trips. CALL YOUR DOCTOR. Make sure your vaccinations are up to date and there are no required or recommended immunizations or other suggestions, such as antimalaria medication, for the countries you plan to visit. CONSIDER AN INTERNATIONAL DRIVER’S LICENSE. If you plan to rent a car, not every country requires an international driving permit, but it is a good idea to have one in case you run into any issues. We certainly recommend this for Italy!

CHECK THE MEDICINE CABINET. If you take daily medication, make sure your prescriptions are filled through your return date. DON’T FORGET YOUR FURRY FRIENDS. Contact your kennel or house sitter to look after your pet well in advance to guarantee availability.

INSPECT YOUR GEAR. Do you have the right equipment for the activities you are planning? Check that everything is in working order and purchase any replacements or extras you might need.

RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES. Make sure your camera and headphone batteries are charged and ready to go. Check to see if a universal adapter is required for when it’s time to recharge.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Take a golf or camera lesson, practice fly casting 10 to 20 minutes a few times per week, know how to use all of the features on your camera, or build your endurance if you are planning any physical activities. Putting a few hours into practicing can greatly improve your experience on the trip. PROTECT YOUR TRAVEL INVESTMENT. Travel insurance can provide valuable protection from the unexpected, such as medical emergencies or evacuations. Travel with less stress knowing you have travel assistance while you are on the road. DOWNLOAD MOVIES OR BOOKS. Have your entertainment ready to go when you board the plane. Research types of plugs for the countries you will visit and buy the adapters. Be sure to pack your adapter in your carry-on to keep powered up throughout the journey.

CHECK THE WEATHER. Be prepared for when you step off the plane, with the proper attire readily accessible in your carry-on, whether it’s sandals or a down jacket.

Although there may seem to be a million things to do when preparing for an international trip, remember the most important thing is to have fun and enjoy the travel experience!

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Sal Salis, Ningaloo Reef, Australia

Australia

A room with a view at Crown Towers, Perth

Just Another Day in W.A.—Western Australia Kristene Fitzgerald

aving made two previous trips to Australia, I was excited to return last spring with my husband to explore some of the western part of the country in conjunction with a trade show in Adelaide. Australia is a country that makes most people’s bucket list. With so much to see and do, it is my goal and privilege to create that dream trip to include all of the must-do spots on the list. The challenge is often what to leave out, frequently working with a limited amount of time. For every snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef, there are dozens of other adventures that warrant a stop in Australia. Because Australia is the size of the continental United States, Western Australia is often overlooked when planning a first-time trip, but with so much diversity, it unquestionably warrants consideration. PERTH is the jumping-off point to access much of Western Australia with over 30 international and domestic airlines servicing the gateway. Qantas now offers nonstop flights on the Boeing Dreamliner from London to Perth, making it so much more accessible. Perth boasts Australia’s sunniest capital city and is bustling with new bars, restaurants, shopping, and cultural experiences. There is no shortage of accommodation in Perth, but my top choice is COMO The

Treasury, located in an old bank building in the historic heart of the city. The grand Victorian-era facade does not hint at the COMO’s contemporary interior design style with rooms featuring oversized windows or French doors, flooding all 48 rooms with natural light. The building is sprawling with many areas still in use as office and retail space, plus two restaurants and a lounge that make it a popular spot for locals. I experienced their rooftop WILDFLOWER restaurant under the direction of Executive Chef Jed Gerrard. The menu is farmer-and-forager-driven with dishes focused on the indigenous six seasons. There are subtle variations from one season to the next, influenced by changes in the weather, which plants are in flower, and which bush foods are abundant. Virtuoso amenities include a $100 food and beverage credit, well-spent at Wildflower. Also on the radar in Perth is the RITZ CARLTON, which is currently under construction and scheduled to open in 2019. Just three hours south of Perth is the MARGARET RIVER, probably best known for its wines. The first vines were planted just 50 years ago, and today it is home to more than 120 vintners producing some of the country’s best

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wines. With its outstanding growing conditions, the area produces a number of varietals and 20 percent of the country’s premium wines. This region combines dramatic coastline, winding rivers, and towering Karri forests, and besides its food and wine culture, outdoor activities are now just as plentiful, not to mention the diverse arts and crafts scene. You can hike the Cape to Cape Track, enjoy world-class surfing, watch migrating whales from Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, explore the vast network of over 150 limestone caves, or just have a long, lazy lunch at the Leeuwin Estate winery—with all of this packed into a few days in the Margaret River. If you are looking for a gastronomic epicurean experience, plan to travel in November for the Margaret River four-day Gourmet Experience.

Kristene and Mike Fitzgerald along the Swan River Walk Trail, on arrival to Perth

From Perth, Mike and I flew up to Exmouth for a few days. His focus was exploring the fishing resource, while I was more interested in exploring underwater. The whale shark migration takes place from April through July along the UNESCO World Heritage–listed NINGALOO REEF, the world’s largest fringing reef. It is the only place in Australia where you can swim with these gentle giants. This has been on my bucket list, and I was thrilled to finally experience this firsthand. This timing also coincides with most school breaks in the Northern Hemisphere and would be a perfect summer vacation destination. The second day was spent exploring the surrounding

A few grapes left on the vine after the fall harvest

area including the CAPE RANGE NATIONAL PARK. This region’s landscape is spectacular, with rugged limestone ranges, breathtaking canyons, and pristine beaches. Wildlife is abundant throughout the Cape Range National Park, with emus, echidnas, lizards, wallabies, kangaroos, dingoes, and a variety of birds. If you are looking for a unique wilderness experience, consider staying at SAL SALIS NINGALOO REEF. This beachside bush safari camp is nestled in the dunes of the Cape Range National Park with views of the Indian Ocean. This is an awesome location for exploring the reef, hiking the national park or taking in the Milky Way in this designated Dark Sky area with no light pollution. Like many of our clients, I wished I had more time in Western Australia to explore the Kimberleys, Broome, Coral Bay, Rottnest Island, the Bungle Bungles—the list goes on. All the more to look forward to on a return trip!

Dark and starry sky at Sal Salis

Tasteful cuisine at Wildflower

Vlaming Head Lighthouse

The diversity of Australia makes this a perfect destination to explore year-round. From vibrant desert landscapes to crystal-clear water and white sand beaches, from aboriginal culture to unique wildlife, Australia really does have it all. n

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Kiyomizu-dera in eastern Kyoto, Japan

Japan

The public bath at Gora Kadan

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Japan – Land of Protocols and Quirkiness! Beth Kurcina

I recently had the opportunity to travel Gora Kadan private onsen across Japan, utilizing the famous bullet trains, regional trains, private drivers, buses, and planes during my two-week trip. I was able to visit fourteen cities, beautiful shrines, temples, and gardens along the way. I enjoyed staying at a mix of Western-style hotels and Japanese traditional hotels, called “ryokans.” Some of the most interesting experiences I had were focused on the Japanese customs and social conventions. This is the land of protocols and quirkiness, and I thoroughly enjoyed finding the delicate balance. Tipping is Not Necessary In Japan, restaurant and hotel staff do not expect to be given gratuities and likely will refuse to take any tips. In the Japanese culture, tipping is considered somewhat rude. However, two of the few places tipping is graciously accepted is at mid- to high-end ryokans. Normally, you will have your own “nakai-san,” a female clerk assigned to your room, and offering a gratuity for your entire stay between 1,000 to 3,000 yen is acceptable; this is the US dollar equivalent to $10–$25. The other profession where tips are appreciated is with private tour guides and drivers. Please expect to tip a full day guide $50 (5,600 yen), a half-day guide $25, and a driver $15–$25.

Nose-Blowing Etiquette Japanese etiquette dictates only blowing your nose in private, along with never using a handkerchief—disposable tissues are preferred due to sanitation reasons. Don’t be surprised to see Japanese people sniffling until they can be in private to blow their noses.

Be Your Own Streetcleaner The Japanese are very conscientious of garbage (known as “gomi”), and everyone carries their trash with them during the day; so it is recommended to carry a plastic bag with you while traveling. All trash cans were removed in 1995 in major cities, after the sarin gas attack in the Tokyo subways.

This may lead you to think that the streets would be littered; however, it is much the opposite. Even though Tokyo has 13 million residents, it is the cleanest city I have ever visited.

Understanding Japanese Toilets Using public restrooms in Japan may be slightly daunting. The toilets in hotels, shopping centers, restaurants, and airports can be quite complex. You have likely heard of the high-tech toilets in Japan, but until you use these multifunctioning products, you can’t truly believe the experience. Having sampled many of these modern flushers, I came to realize they had more buttons than my television remote. From automatic seat lifting, flushing, and heating, deodorizing, spraying, and blow drying to noise covering and music playing, I learned an entirely new programming language. There is actually a museum fully dedicated to the manufacturer of the beloved Washlet located in the southernmost part of Japan’s four main islands, Kitakyushu. The Toto company built this $60 million museum to commemorate their 100th anniversary in 2017. Another interesting display at the museum is the toilet that General Douglas MacArthur used in his office during the post–World War 2 occupation of Japan. One important observation I picked up in my Japanese travels is that many public restrooms do not have soap or towels. Therefore, I recommend travelers carry sanitizer and hand wipes for such occasions. (Continued on next page)

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This practice is prevalent in Japan, and you’ll see it in all hotels, restaurants, taxis, convenience stores, and cafés.

Basic Training for the Japanese Bullet Train I had the opportunity to ride eight bullet trains to major destinations, including Tokyo to Nagano, Kanazawa to Tokyo, Kyoto to Hiroshima, and Osaka to Tokyo.

Beth and a Japanese chef in Kyoto

Slipper Etiquette Japan is known for slipper wearing, so expect to be taking off your shoes many times while visiting. One helpful hint is to make sure you wear socks. It is important to point your street shoes toward the door after you take them off. When entering a person’s home, ryokan, tearoom, or restaurant, you will be offered a pair of slippers to wear. You’ll also find another pair of slippers in the bathroom, and you must change into them. In Japanese culture, they separate areas into clean and unclean, and the contact between these areas should be minimized. Just remember to change your slippers back—wearing toilet slippers into your friend’s living room or back to your table at the restaurant is quite embarrassing!

Money Exchange In Japan, money is rarely passed directly from one person’s hand to another’s. When purchasing an item or service— rather than handing your money to the cashier—place your payment (whether cash or credit) on the small tray provided. This is where your change will be placed as well.

One of Japan’s high speed bullet trains

Given that I was going to fourteen cities in twelve days, I enjoyed the efficiency and smooth-riding capabilities of the bullet trains. The Shinkansen, the official name of the bullet train, literally means “new trunk line” in Japanese, referring to the high-speed rail line network. The maximum operating speed is 200 mph, or 320 km/h. The ride is so comfortable you don’t realize how fast you are going; however, one disadvantage is that the scenery goes by so swiftly it is not the best vantage point for sightseeing. I would recommend a private car and driver for day trips to balance out your scenic touring. The Shinkansen is operated by JR, or Japanese Railways, a conglomeration of five different rail lines. The JR system can be a bit confusing, and understanding the subtleties is very important as a traveler in Japan.

Observations about the bullet train • Many Japanese “salary men and women” encounter a long commute, sometimes working two or three hours each way from their homes. Because of this, sleeping on the train is often a necessity, so do not be surprised to witness entire train compartments napping. • The trains are very quiet, and it is expected that all mobile phones be in silent mode; you are expected to go to the end of the carriage if you need to talk on your phone. Additionally, talking and laughing on the train itself is considered rude, so do not be surprised to hear no sound whatsoever on a packed train. • You will find security assistants on the train platforms, especially during the morning rush hour in major cities like Tokyo and Osaka. The mass of humanity will make you feel like you are on a battlefield. Even after you confirm that it is impossible to get in the train due to overcrowding, an assistant will push you in. Railway companies hire security assistants to help hundreds of thousands of passengers trying to get on the train, so please don’t resist—they are trained and know the train’s capacity.

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• The bullet and regional trains do not have as much luggage storage space as European trains. Therefore, Japan has an excellent overnight baggage-forwarding service, called “Takkyubin,” that you may want to use when you have long travel days. You can arrange this at hotel reception very easily, and the cost averages $18 (2,000 yen) per bag.

Things You Should Know Before Eating in Japan! Japan offers sixteen different cuisines, and I made a point of sampling all of them among fourteen cities. In addition, I went on a restaurant crawl in Tokyo, participated in a Bento box cooking class in Kyoto, and visited each city’s distinct food markets. One caveat for picky eaters is that many Japanese dishes are based on utilizing every part of the land and sea. I can attest to eating fall foliage leaves and live sea creatures. I even have to admit that one night I dined at the grand opening of Domino’s Pizza in Tokyo just to take a break from the unique cuisine. Food is taken very seriously in Japan—from the preparation to the presentation to the consumption. You may be surprised to know that in 2017, Tokyo surpassed Paris with fourteen Michelin three-star restaurants. Employment in a Japanese restaurant is a highly revered profession, as many apprentice chefs train in establishments for twelve years before they are allowed to even touch or handle the food.

Don’t Fret If You Are Shouted at When Entering a Restaurant It is a century-old convention for workers at Japanese restaurants to shout “Irasshaimase!” when you enter their establishment. This is a form of greeting and translates to “Welcome to the store” or “Come on in.” Often times they don’t smile at you and just shout, but they are really trying to welcome you, so don’t be surprised. The phrase was originally used by marketplace sellers trying to bring customers closer to their particular stall. Be ready for the other shout “Arigato gozaimashita!” as you exit restaurants, meaning “Thank you!”

Chopstick Etiquette Knowing how to use chopsticks is essential for dining in Japanese restaurants. First, start by lifting the chopsticks with both hands and remember that they are eating utensils, just like a knife and fork.

Kasaiki Dinner at Ryokan

Do not: • Suck sauce off of your chopsticks. • Wave your chopsticks over the food on the table, especially if family-style. • Point them at someone while talking. • Pass food with your chopsticks. Another important note: when first seated, many restaurants offer you a wet towel to clean your hands.

Noodle Slurping Loud slurping when eating noodles is not considered rude in Japan. It is also acceptable to bring the bowl up to your mouth and use your chopsticks. Making loud slurping noises shows that you are enjoying the noodles and the meal is appreciated. A scientific reason also lends itself to this practice, indicating that the noodles will taste better if you slurp, allowing the flavors of the broth and noodles to mingle. This action is similar to wine connoisseurs gurgling wine and sucking air through their mouths to force air into the nasal passage, allowing the flavors to spread.

The Best Food Can Be Found in Department Store Basements Some of the best food can be found underground in Japan. When looking for exclusive Japanese food and beverages, visit what they call “Depachika,” or basements of department stores. Various higher-end department stores with great assortments are Mitsukoshi, Takashimaya, and Isetan.

The Art of Bento Boxes I had a wonderful opportunity to participate in a handson culinary class in Kyoto that focused on creating your own bento box. The bento box is usually consumed for lunch and comes in all shapes and sizes, containing a variety of food items separated individually. The earliest record of these packed lunches in Japan date back to the fifth century, when people going out to farm, hunt, or (Continued on next page)

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glasses to be filled before you touch yours. Then wait for someone to offer a cheers in Japanese before you raise your glass and take the first drink. The Japanese word for cheers is “kanpai,” which translates to “empty cup,” or the Western equivalent to “bottoms up.” Additionally, protocol calls for you to never pour your own drink, so be on the lookout for dining mates who need a refresher. Tradition once dictated that guests were expected to finish their cup of sake in one shot, which is why the sake cups are conveniently small.

Practical Advice about Staying at a Japanese Ryokan Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima, Japan

wage war took provisions in wooden boxes. They typically carried dried fish and rice. In my travels, I saw many varieties of bento boxes, from elaborate artisan ones in five-star hotel restaurants to grade-school children carrying theirs to school in R2-D2 and Pokémon carrying cases. I attended the Sun Cooking Studio in Kyoto’s Higashi Nakasuji area for a three-hour class where I learned about the history of the bento box and the various cooking techniques. Then it was on to work, making sushi rolls, pickling vegetables, deep-frying shrimp tempura, skewering teriyaki chicken, and making the accompanying miso soup. At the conclusion of the class, all participants sat down and enjoyed the fruits of our labor.

Never Pour Your Own Drink Meals are often accompanied or followed by drinks, either beer or sake. Etiquette calls for you to wait for all

If you are contemplating staying at a Japanese-style hotel, called a “ryokan” (Japanese guesthouse), then the following information may assist you with your decision. Ryokans have existed since the eighth century and are typically located on the Tokaido Highway, which connects the capital city of Edo (current day Tokyo) and the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. Ryokans were built to welcome the weary samurais and traders who needed rest before continuing on their long journey. While you can find ryokans scattered throughout all of Japan, the best and most authentic ones are located in more scenic areas, such as Hakone (near Mt. Fuji), Kyoto, and Kanazawa. I stayed in two different types on my trip, a higher-end one in Yudanaka, near the Snow Monkey Park, and a three-star one at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Each offered a memorable experience, and it was interesting to observe the other guests enjoying the retreat. One evening I went to the karaoke bar in the ryokan and sang Frank Sinatra songs with a group of Japanese businessmen. Please note that a typical ryokan is focused more on maintaining a special atmosphere and appearance than providing the latest modern conveniences. There are several key components that are consistent regardless of the type of ryokan you choose, including the room, the bed, the food, and the onsen.

The Room As you enter the room, there will be a very small foyer where you take your street shoes off and put on slippers. This area is called the “agari-kamachi.” Next, you go through the “shoj,” which are the sliding paper doors that separate the agari-kamachi from the sleeping room.

Standard room at Gora Kadan

The room will have a table, low to the ground, with fresh hot tea that will be replenished as needed throughout your stay. Near the table will be chairs that do not have legs, allowing you to sit on the ground at the table.

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Editor’s Note

The Food Staying at a ryokan is a full-service experience. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price. The food served is Japanese “kaiseki” style, a beautiful array of colors consisting of multiple dishes and seasonal ingredients. Meals tend to be comprised of dried fish, seafood, and pickled vegetables. Soup, salad, and rice are also included in every meal. Please note there are no substitutions or menu selections. In your room, you will be given a kimono to wear over your clothes, and you are expected to wear this when eating your dinner and breakfast along with your slippers. Some ryokans offer a choice of dining in your room or in the main dining room.

The Bed After you return from dinner, the staff will have already come into your room and assembled your bedding. This consists of a futon mattress, sheets, blankets, and a pillow, placed on the “tatami,” which is the reed floor matting. If the futon is too thin for your preference, you may ask the housekeeping staff to provide another mattress so you can double up for comfort. I have to admit that I thought sleeping on the floor in this style would be uncomfortable, since I am accustomed to Western-style beds with a box spring and mattress, but I did sleep quite well in both ryokans.

The Onsen Japan is home to over 100 active volcanoes—nearly 10 percent of all active volcanoes in the world! While they can cause major destruction, they also offer relaxation in the form of hot spring baths, or as they are called in Japan, “onsens.” Most ryokans have an onsen built into the property. Depending on the ryokan, some will offer public, private, or both. Rules and etiquette will be consistent across the board. It may sound counterintuitive, but bathing is not for cleansing in Japan. The hot spring baths are used once you’ve already soaped and scrubbed in the adjacent shower or while seated on a small bench beside a handheld shower nozzle. Some basic rules to follow: • Take off all your clothes before going inside an onsen room. No bathing suits are allowed. • Wash yourself thoroughly, ideally with a wash towel, before entering the water. • Enter the water quietly; do not jump in.

We have noticed a tremendous uptick in interest in Japan, and fortunately there are numerous high-quality options to consider, ranging from a bespoke itinerary customized around your interests and objectives to escorted group journeys, both luxury and small-ship adventure cruises around the perimeter of the island featuring interest-specific “deep dives,” snow monkeys, art, trekking, etc. Japan is also a burgeoning ski destination. Frontiers is well positioned to assist with your travel to Japan. Whatever your objectives may be, we have a network of personal contacts for top guides, drivers, and assistance throughout the country. We are also dialed in to top accommodations ranging from Four Seasons, Aman, Park Hyatt, and the Ritz Carlton to the best ryokans and hybrids of both. Bear in mind if you want to visit Japan during the much touted cherry blossom season, you should plan a minimum of eight to twelve months in advance. The autumn is an equally lovely time to be there and also very popular. For art enthusiasts, 2019 marks the Setouchi Triennale, a contemporary art festival that will take place at Naoshima. This means that space at the island’s only hotel, Benesse House, a 10-room complex where guests have an interactive experience with the art on-property, will be in even higher demand than usual. There are direct flights to Japan from numerous USA gateways, making it more accessible than ever. Do keep Japan in mind, either as a stopover to other Asian destinations or ideally as a stand-alone trip.

• Never take the wash towel into the water with you. • Submerge yourself up to your neck in the steaming hot water. • Do not submerge your head since getting hair in the water is considered unhygienic. • Do not stretch out and recline like in Western hot tubs. If you tend to be a finicky sleeper and have dietary restrictions, then I recommend you stick with Westernstyle hotels. But if you are willing to immerse yourself in the Japanese culture and appreciate the full experience of Eastern lodging alternatives, then I recommend you stay at a ryokan— two nights at the most! n

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Everest Base Camp at 17,060 ft.

China Sixth Century Potala Palace by night - world famous symbol of Tibetan Buddhism

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Tibet: Roof of the World Mollie Fitzgerald

Confession: I am not a mountaineer myself and have no desire to summit any peak. Bizarrely, I am drawn to the accounts and stories of those who do feel this magnetic draw. I am also unabashedly spellbound by the Himalayas and the people who dwell there, a condition that developed over the course of several trips that includes many pinpoints on the map: Dehra Dun, Kashmir and Ladakh, Darjeeling, Lijiang, Mustang, Bhutan, and Nepal.

ibet was an obvious piece of the Himalayan puzzle I was missing, and it had captured my imagination in the biggest possible way. I was inspired by Heinrich Harrer’s Seven Years in Tibet, a landmark account, published in the 1950s, of one of the first Westerners to live and dwell among Tibetan people before the Chinese takeover. His quote below speaks equally to the geographic isolation of Tibet and to the profound spirituality that permeates every aspect of Tibetan daily life―this is the stuff travel dreams are made of: “In the time between the two wars, a British colonial officer said that with the invention of the airplane the world has no secrets left. However, he said, there is one last mystery. There is a large country on the Roof of the World, where strange things happen. There are monks who have the ability to separate mind from body, shamans and oracles who make government decisions, and a God-King who lives in a skyscraperlike palace in the Forbidden City of Lhasa.” ― Heinrich Harrer, Seven Years in Tibet So, I share this with you as the genesis of my journey. I was in Nepal in March 2015, just a few short weeks before the devastating earthquake, with a compatible small group of savvy travelers. We allowed ourselves to fantasize while overnighting in Namche Bazaar, a fabled village on the Nepalese trail to Everest, that we might one day visit Tibet to see the “other side” of the Himalayas. A skeleton itinerary was sketched out on a dinner napkin, including the lure of visiting Everest Base Camp (without the arduous two-to-three-week trek). Bottom line―we were all in and happily reunited when the opportunity became a reality in autumn 2017.

for myself. It is not an easy place to get to from outside China, and the Chinese discourage foreign tourism by making the special permits required for Tibet difficult to obtain (they are especially hard to get in the United States) in addition to the visa. Our group launched from Kathmandu, and we’d gathered three days ahead to allow time for the Chinese visas and permits to be issued. Air China flies the only international flight into Lhasa—a short one hour and 35 minutes via Airbus A-319. There is a two-hour, 15-minute time change (all of China is on “China Time” which is 12 hours ahead of EST). Spurred on by a good sighting of the mountains from the left side of the plane, we landed in LHASA, where we were met inside customs by our local rep and passed through all formalities without delay. A small band complete with humans in yak costumes gave us a festive welcome, and we set off for the St. Regis Hotel, which would be home for the next three nights—a drive of about an hour. The smooth paved roads, tunnels, modern bridges, and power lines as far as the eye could see gave us our first glimpse into Chinese infrastructure imposed in this distant outpost (partly impressive and partly depressing). As we approached the city itself, the skyline was that of a late-20th-century metropolis—a civil engineer’s utopia, and what one of my travel companions described (Continued on next page)

I’d been cautioned by people I knew and respected in the industry that with the irrepressible Chinese influence, “Tibet had changed” or that I was “too late” or that the only places left to see “true Tibetan culture” were certainly not in Tibet itself, but in Bhutan, Ladakh, and the far reaches of Mustang. I was uneasy as a result of this information but still curiously hungry to see it and judge

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Nose to nose with a Tibetan Mastiff

Making a “kora” (circular journey) at Tashilhunpo Monastery

Acute Mountain Sickness (ACM): What You Should Know and How to Acclimate • Drink lots of water—more than you can imagine! • Eat a high-carb diet (rice is your friend in this part of the world). • Abstain from or reduce consumption of alcohol. • Don’t overdo it on first day—take it easy and allow your body to adjust. • Talk to your doctor about Diamox, a prescription drug that helps you adapt; I always take this at high elevations and believe it helps in spite of weird side effects like tingling extremities. • Be familiar with your own medical vital signs before you leave home—blood pressure, pulse, and normal oxygen levels in the blood—so you have a baseline. I suggest you purchase a battery-operated oximeter to bring with you; this tiny device gives you good readings of how much oxygen you are receiving, and it is wise to take readings as you move through various elevations, and know when to back off physical activity or seek medical advice. • Speak up if you are having difficulty, shortness of breath, nausea, or other symptoms. Remarkably, most hotels, even in remote areas, have continuous oxygen available, if needed, which usually relieves immediate AMS symptoms. Our local on-site suppliers also normally carry it in vehicles. • AMS can affect anyone, even the young and most fit, so take it easy and listen to your body. Even the smallest things like bending over to unzip your duffle bag can leave you gasping for air.

as “dehumanizing architecture.” We crossed the Brahmaputra River, which was broad and swift with several braids and little islands with slender trees sporting fall foliage. Many of Asia’s major rivers have their source in Tibet: the Nyang, the Salween, the Mekong, the Yangtze, and the Yellow Rivers. Lhasa is one of the world’s highest cities at 12,000 feet and has a population of 250,000. It is surrounded by peaks—although nothing super high—and the air here contains 32 percent less oxygen than at sea level. Traditionally the home of the Dalai Lama, this city has long drawn hordes of pilgrims and travelers who brave the thin air to see its beautiful Buddhist temples set among a backdrop of stunning mountain landscapes. The Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) has a population of 3 million people, is roughly the size of the EU, and has an average elevation of 15,000 feet! Much of the region is a high-elevation desert and falls into the “rain shadow” effect, so weather is cold, clear, and dry with strong sunshine. Our exploration of Lhasa began with a visit to the POTALA PALACE, a world-famous symbol of the enigmatic power of politics and religion in this region. Being that it was a Sunday, there were scores of domestic tourists and devout pilgrims with whom we shared the over 400 steps and, at times, quite close passageways. They were twirling handheld prayer wheels, called “manis,” and fervently fingering prayer beads. The core of the building dates back to the seventh century;

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it was built to provide the Tibetan court with a place of worship and meditation. Later it was rebuilt in the 17th century to its present 13-story size and became the Winter Palace of the Dalai Lama. We paused often on the steep ascent to catch our breath and to take in the panoramic view of the city and mountains beyond. The interiors were richly decorated with ornate murals, gigantic images of the past, present and future Buddhas, and butter-oil candles aglow. Cozy inner sanctums gave way to terraced courtyards—it was awesome, and I’m happy to say that going down was much easier than up! We visited the JOKHANG TEMPLE, located in the oldest part of the city. The four-story building has splendid golden roofs and also harkens back to the seventh century. Walking through the large square to get to the temple, one can really get a glimpse into daily life and the dogma and ritual associated with Buddhism. Elders were circumnavigating the temple—this practice is called making a “kora” and is always done clockwise—while others were tying ceremonial white scarves to poles laden with prayer flags, and many were rhythmically prostrating themselves repeatedly on the ground to the left of the temple entrance to symbolize that they had lain on their face for part of their journey. The basic understanding of Buddhism is essential in Tibet. Buddhism’s values, goals, disciplines, and teachings permeate every aspect of life here. We visited the DREPUNG MONASTERY—which in its heyday held 7,700 monks in residence and was the largest-scale monastery of its kind in the world—and the Sera Monastery, another gargantuan setup—more like a village! It housed around 5,000 monks until the revolution in 1959 when its colleges were destroyed, ancient texts burned, and many monks massacred. Today, it is a smaller-scale situation; a highlight is to be there at 3:00 p.m. sharp when the monks file into a walled courtyard and pursue a lively debate session. There is shouting, martial-arts–like leaps in the air, and sharp clapping of hands—all in all, quite a spectacle and the antithesis of the monotone chanting of sutras that one associates with this peaceful philosophy. I highly recommend a nighttime stroll in front of the Potala Palace; it is dramatically lit after dark and was truly magical. We wandered through parks and gardens with fountains aglow in fluorescent tones—it was obviously “date night” in Lhasa with many young couples out for a stroll. We returned to the St. Regis in a posse of bicycle rickshaws, all of us in need of a good night’s sleep as tomorrow we would commence our journey to the mountains and anticipation ran high. We’d had nothing but cloudless “Carolina-blue” skies in Lhasa, so it was a bit of a shock to awaken to poor

visibility, but the raindrops and fog did nothing to dampen our spirits as we set out in a 32-seat coach. Our destination was Shigatse, the second-largest city in Tibet, situated at 14,000 feet. We knew it would be a long drive, through several passes, and we were well prepared for the journey with snacks and a large cooler full of bottled water and soft drinks. There was an ominously large tank of O2 lying across the entire back row of seats for “just in case.” The first photo op was the YAMDROK YUMTSO PASS— down jackets were donned, and we got out amid galeforce winds to see the glacial lake below us, which gleamed a milky blue as the sun came and went behind the clouds. A highlight was a stop at the GAMPALA PASS (16,000 feet) where we first encountered the Tibetan Mastiff. It is a rare breed of dog, possibly the largest canine variety I have seen, but at first glance, one could be forgiven for thinking it is part lion with its thick and luxuriant mane of fur. Although it is a bit of a tourist attraction, with the dogs on leashes on platforms, they were magnificent specimens and surprisingly friendly given their menacing appearance. We could hardly wait to sidle up to one of them—partly for warmth—but beware, sloppy, wet kisses are the norm. At last we arrived in SHIGATSE, exhausted but having had a rich and full day. The blue sky and sunshine had reappeared, and our hotel was better than expected in terms of creature comforts, although, like Lhasa, English was barely comprehended. The room was fine and the water was hot. Breakfast the next morning, however, was most uninspiring. Coffee was simply not on offer— it’s a tea-based society, after all—and with the help of (Continued on next page)

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warmest gear. Again, no coffee in these distant outposts, but it was imperative that we set off by 6:00 a.m. so that we were sure to see the sun rise over the Himalayan peaks as we crossed the PANGLA PASS. Temperatures were frosty, but the full moon and twinkling night skies promised a clear day ahead—this was the final step to

a translation app on my phone I taught the chef on the buffet line how to scramble an egg! We were up early in order to make a kora (walk around) at the Tashilhunpo Monastery before we got back on the road—but it was so worth it and turned out to be one of the most unexpected and authentic pleasures of the trip. I swear, there was not another tourist within 100 miles—we joined the swell of locals making the journey around the monastery. The crisp air mixed with the smoke from juniper boughs placed on little fires as spiritual offerings at altars along the way. Rows of cylindrical prayer wheels spun freely, and of course, I was huffing and puffing to keep pace with local elders who obviously did this every day. Some of our best photos of the trip came from this early morning outing! Our next outpost was the village of XÊGAR, which would take us one step closer to Mt. Everest. We stopped at the Gyatso La Pass (17,093 feet) where prayer flags fluttered as far as the eye could see and there were yaks in ceremonial costume for photos. Our Xêgar hotel, situated at 14,206 feet, was humbler; the O2 cans (which look like hairspray) that had been $35 in the St. Regis minibar were $5 here (which is amazing given the logistics of getting them there) and I bought four of them as a preventive measure. We dined, lazy susan–style, on chicken wings and fried rice, and fell into horsehair mattresses. The predawn wake-up call came earlier than I would have liked, and sadly no hot water (we’d been prewarned), but we were quick responders and ready to jump into our

EVEREST BASE CAMP (EBC). We had to pass through a security checkpoint—out of the bus in a single-file line with passports in hand, still under cover of darkness, the closest thing I’ve ever come to “Checkpoint Charlie!” We gained elevation through the switchbacks, still on amazingly good paved roads, and at last arrived at the top of the Pangla Pass, just as the first peachy hues of morning sunshine were marking the horizon. Before us was the entire Himalayan range with the sun coming up on the left and the full moon setting on the right—a genuine feast for the eyes, and all that I came for! Everest beckoned, and we followed her cue. We clicked away and waited for the light to change, which it eventually did; I could have happily spent all day from this lofty vantage point, but we had to press on. We descended a series of switchbacks, which, viewed from above, resembled a child’s Hot Wheels dream track system. We passed through rural Tibetan villages, some amazingly authentic and some brand new, built for people being relocated from other parts of China— imagine their disorientation! Arriving at EBC some four hours later was the crescendo of our trip, ticking the bucket list for all of us. We passed through a village of tents and shacks, the various vendors’ stalls selling trinkets, which were encased in a light frost and glistening in the sun, as if a baker had come by and sprinkled everything with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar. That led onto the rocky plain where the mountain majestically revealed herself, together with her consorts, Lhotse, Makalu, and countless others. It was hard to imagine that the snowy peak of Mt. Everest, which we could so clearly see, was yet another 12,000 feet higher than where we stood! There was a large stone marking the place, MT. QOMOLANGMA, AT 5,200 METERS in Chinese (the mountain we call Mt. Everest, which straddles Nepal and Tibet). It was a gorgeous day, and snow-covered Everest filled our senses! n

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Primer for Travel to Tibet: • English is not widely spoken nor comprehended—compared to other parts of China, it is noticeably absent. • American Express is not widely accepted (especially outside of Lhasa). Bring your Visa or Mastercard! • Have small denominations of Chinese currency, called Yuan, for camera fees at monuments, photo ops of local people, use of public toilets, and overweight charges at airports. • Coffee is often difficult to obtain—something our Starbucks-addicted culture takes for granted! • There is prevalent use of “squattie-potties” in women’s restrooms—I have encountered this in many other countries but not in China—so come prepared with tissues and hand sanitizer. • Layered clothing is essential. In spite of the abundant sunshine, temperatures drop at night and it can be chilly in the shade. • Do not expect your guide to opine about politics, the Chinese influence, the Dalai Lama or any other even remotely controversial topic, as they are clearly prohibited from doing so. • Do take the extra days to get beyond Lhasa and pay homage to the mountains; it’s not an easy trip, but, oh, so worth it! • Be sure to pack your sense of humor. Not everything runs like clockwork!

Prayer flags at Yamdrok Yumtso Pass

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Morocco Girls Just Wanna Have Fun! A Magical Mystery Tour in Morocco Jill Jergel

“M

ah-RAHK-co?” My girlfriend Jennifer was doubtful. Just back from her husband’s carefully planned, amazing 60th birthday surprise trip to Ireland, which included a stay in the Kennedy Suite at fabled Ashford Castle, both wanderlust and the travel bug had infiltrated her country girl spirit. Vowing to dedicate our mutually new decades to some “you only live once” adventures, I’d invited her to join me on Abercrombie & Kent’s small group tour “Splendors of Morocco.” The cleverly crafted itinerary combined with darned enticing images on the website had been calling to me for years. The game was afoot and the time was NOW! “Look,” I said pointing a finger at the brochure, “we can ride camels and sleep in the Sahara! The French colonists left a legacy of surprisingly great wines, and besides, it sounds like the shopping is fabulous!” Our husbands grew up together and have remained lifelong friends.

They are both dedicated to their families, jobs, golf, and the Pittsburgh Steelers—so no surprise that the prospect of shopping the souks of Morocco held no appeal for them. With our tickets purchased, our excitement and anticipation grew, as did the numerous texts and emails over packing dilemmas, which escalated as our departure date approached. Tucked into the northwestern corner of the African continent, Morocco is the “safe exotic destination,” downgraded to a level one country (the safest ranking there is) by the State Department in January 2018. The country is ruled by a king who is generally beloved by his people, and women’s rights have made great strides in recent years. English travel writer Tahir Shah said it best in his wonderful book The Caliph’s House when he described Morocco as “a tapestry of mountain passes and steep sided valleys, of deserts and oases and Imperial

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Ancient fortress of Air Benhaddou

fortress cities with a culture bound by the tribal codes of honor and respect.” Our experience began in the coastal town of Casablanca, where we met our amiable companions and enjoyed the first of many Moroccan mint teas, which is actually green tea steeped with lots of spearmint. Another delicious Moroccan treat came at breakfast, when we were served fresh orange slices laced with native Moroccan cinnamon; this luscious treat became a mandatory staple for nearly all in our group. Sights of the day included the Hassan II Grand Mosque, which is among the largest mosques in the world, housing 25,000 worshipers, and the Oudaya Kasbah in Rabat, which is perched over the Atlantic Ocean. However, our stay in Morocco really began when we arrived in Fez. That evening, we threw open our windows to hear the evening call to prayer, which casts a definite “Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore” mood. Fez, founded in the ninth century and home to the oldest university in the world, is one of four imperial cities and is considered the cultural heart of Morocco. This is where we truly began to appreciate and value our own wonderful Madame Ambassador to Morocco: our A&K guide, Saida. Clad in her warmest jalaba (a loose-fitting outer robe, common with the Arab world) to ward off the chilly February temperatures, Saida certainly made sure the history of Fez during the Middle Ages was vivid in our minds before accompanying us through the labyrinthine medina, with its 9,000 narrow lanes, alleys, and souks. Stalls were bursting with color and activity, so our heads were on a constant swivel, not wanting to miss the next visual, aroma, or Kodak moment. From here we went to the tannery vats, which are a step back in time, to see leather be prepared as it has been for hundreds of years. The aroma, however, turned to a serious stench, and to ward off the pungent smells, Saida handed out small bouquets of fresh mint, which we kept glued to our nostrils while friends in the group considered purchases of Moroccan leather pouf ottomans—a practical souvenir, as they’re sold unstuffed.

Our palace in the Sahara

In Fez we watched artisans chip handmade ceramic into perfect pieces for mosaics, woodcarvers, weavers, and skilled brass workers using their tools with precision. We purchased vibrant mosaic bowls dotted with carved camel bone, saffron in the spice market, and hand-tooled tin votive globes that now cast a delightful Moroccan glow on my western Pennsylvania deck. Jennifer made one of the best purchases, a beautiful hand-loomed wool rug, which was miraculously compressed into her suitcase on our final night. We marveled at God’s incredible design of the camel, whose knees bend backward, the opposite of ours. Watching a camel “unfold” from its kneeling position (Continued on next page)

Colorful leather Moroccan slippers

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Jill and Jennifer

looks a little like an erector set gone haywire, and when you put a shrieking female on top of that visual—well, giggles ensued. Midnight at the oasis, for our hearty gang, brought frigid temperatures; and indeed, it had snowed in the Sahara just a few days before our arrival. Evoking true Lawrence of Arabia luxury, we were in our own private tented camp in the middle of the desert, and we weren’t foregoing comfort or style. The tents had overlapping colorful rugs and perfectly delicious beds with enveloping duvets and pillows, complete with a surprisingly stylish and perfectly functional en suite bathroom. After a warming dinner with local Berber entertainment in our dining tent, thoughtful A&K provided us with hot water bottles to snuggle up with under our duvets. On the way back to our tents, we stopped frequently to tilt our heads back and marvel at the magnificent desert sky simply bursting with glittering stars. As they say, the silence was deafening. Some of our most fascinating days were spent traversing the High Atlas Mountains, where we viewed everyday life in the many Berber villages perched on the hillside, snowy peaks behind them. These earthen adobe clusters are home to a fairly pure Berber population, loyally living in a simple, traditional fashion as their ancestors have. The Berber language, called Amazigh, is one of the two national languages of

Leather tannery in Fez

Morocco. Since the villages are extremely long distances from schools, and girls traditionally are not schooled, the craft of preparing the wool, creating the design, and weaving the rugs is commonly practiced by groups of women. Fortunately, several cooperatives have recently been launched to battle female illiteracy in the Berber villages and permit them to pursue an education. Another excellent UNESCO-recognized project is the Arganeraie Biosphere Reserve, where women earn much-needed income harvesting the miraculous argan oil. It takes one woman three days to make a liter of oil—hence its expense! Saving the very best for last, our final stop was the kaleidoscopic treasure trove that is Marrakech. Here, incredibly beautiful hotels fuse Morocco’s architectural traditions and craftsmanship with a hint of contemporary flair and French pizzazz. One of the most breathtaking hotels I’ve ever seen is the Royal Mansour, built by the king as a way to showcase his country’s skilled craftsmen. Fragrant, opulent, and impressive in every way, removed from the chaos yet still centrally located to the snake charmers of Djemaael-Fna, this property must be on your list if you’re a hotel connoisseur like many of our travelers. Remember, it was in Marrakech that a 30-year-old Yves Saint Laurent found his muse for color and bold style that fueled a passion for using exotic cultural themes in his designs. Jennifer and I loved the brand-new Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Museum, which features a permanent display showcasing 40 years of designs from the YSL couture house and which is also located next to the must-see botanical garden, Jardin Majorelle, that the designer rescued from bulldozers. Our adventure over, we bid farewell to our new friends and tried to close suitcases bulging with argan oil, scarves, rugs, lanterns, beaded jewelry, and other treasures, hugging tightly our memories of one heck of a girls’ trip coming to a close. n

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Poland

View of Birkenau from the watch tower

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Remembering the Recent Past Beth Kurcina

There is a quote from the medieval Persian poet Saadi that resonates with me often, “A traveler without observation is a bird without wings.” It was very relevant on my recent trip to Poland.

he focus of my trip was the various sites in the three major cities of Kraków, Łódź, and Warsaw that pertain to World War II and the Nazi occupation. One may ask, “Why would you focus on such a dark period of history?” and my answer is “Why wouldn’t you want to step foot in the camps, factories, and ghettos of those millions of innocent men, women, and children who struggled and sacrificed and died, so you can remember and honor them and gain enlightenment and perspective?” I have always believed that experiencing sadness will lead to revelations worth discovering. I recommend spending three nights each in Kraków and Warsaw and one night in Łódź, which is an hour-and-ahalf drive south of Warsaw. There is an option to hire a private driver and stay in Łódź en route to Kraków, or bypass Łódź and take the high-speed train between Kraków and Warsaw, a total of two-and-a-half hours.

Kraków Oskar Schindler Factory Housed in the former administrative building of Oskar Schindler’s factory is a museum that tells the story of the Jewish prisoners of Płaszów who were the inspiration for Steven Spielberg’s moving film Schindler’s List. However, the museum is much more than this factory. I was pleased to find a comprehensive history of the Nazi occupation of Kraków. The atmosphere of the era is evoked by re-creations of typical house interiors and street scenes. You can easily independently visit without a guide since many of the exhibit’s placards are in English, but a private guide will add valuable commentary. My guide, Martina, shared personal accounts of her relatives’ struggles during the occupation. Specifically heartrending was the story of her six-year-old mother witnessing her grandmother’s execution by the SS troops.

Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial A visit to the concentration camp memorial, located in southern Poland, 40 miles (60 kilometers) from Kraków, will require planning. I highly recommend that you book a private driver, make your reservation well in advance, and visit as a day trip from Kraków. In order to see the grounds and exhibitions in depth, visitors should set aside at least three hours. The memorial is divided into two areas, the first one being Auschwitz—where the Nazis opened the first camp and carried out the first experiments of using Zyklon B for the gassing of the prisoners—and the second being Birkenau—where the Nazis erected most of the gas chambers for mass exterminations and built 300 hundred primitive wooden barracks. The memorial does not allow independent private guides; however, you can arrange a private docent who works for the memorial. Reservations can be booked only three months prior to your visit date, and availability is extremely limited. (Continued on next page)

Warsaw Okopawa Jewish Cemetary

Please note there are only a set number of tickets sold daily, so I advise you arrive early or purchase your tickets in advance online for a specific day. To thoroughly delve into all the exhibit rooms, two hours is advisable. If time permits, I highly recommend you visit the cinema area to watch the testimonials of the surviving factory workers— quite powerful.

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Interestingly, Roman Polanski, the Polish Oscar-winning film director, lived in the ghetto with his family as a six-year-old, and this was his inspiration for his 2002 awarding-winning film The Pianist. One hotel highly recommended in Kraków is the Hotel Copernicus, a Relais and Châteaux property located in the heart of the Old Town, across from the house where Pope John Paul II lived in the 1950s, now a museum. This hotel successfully blends tradition with modern touches.

The Oskar Schindler Factory

I also recommend visiting very early in the morning; departing Kraków at 6:30 a.m. will allow you to do the first tour beginning at 8:00 a.m. This will enable you to move freely since by midmorning the memorial is flooded with tourists, which makes it much more challenging to see the exhibits. Also be sure to remember that 80 percent of the tour will be outdoors so be prepared for the weather conditions. The exhibit that struck me the most was the “The Proof of Material Crimes” room. I will never forget the red floors and stench of this building. It housed the glasses, human hair, luggage, vases, and other materials confiscated from the prisoners upon their arrival. I have visited many concentration camps throughout Europe, but the enormity of the Third Reich’s widespread terror and evil was emotionally numbing at AuschwitzBirkenau.

Kazimierz/Podgórze Jewish Quarter Kraków’s Jewish Quarter, the Kazimierz, has been the heart of the city’s Jewish community since medieval times. Traces of its turbulent past remain, but today it has reinvented itself as a thriving cultural hub, where historic synagogues and museums sit side by side with art galleries, cocktail bars, bold street art, and vintage boutiques. I recommend a private guided walking tour since many of the Jewish ghetto sites are not obvious and the powerful narrative of your guide is invaluable. The synagogues, market squares, and old graveyards all have a story, and these are the memories you will take away, not the guidebook’s list of facts. My expert guide engrossed me with stories of daily living in the ghetto. For example, when the 10-foot wall was erected, enclosing the entire ghetto, the Germans made the workers create the top arches of the wall to resemble tombstones, to be constantly reminded of their impending demise.

Łódź If you decide to take a day trip from Warsaw, or stay one night in Łódź, I recommend a guided experience. Independently navigating the streets is not advisable, since there are no street signs or information boards about the Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Łódź had a large Jewish population before the war, and was home to the second-largest ghetto in Germanoccupied Europe besides the Warsaw Ghetto. During the war, the ghetto transformed into a major industrial center, manufacturing war supplies for Nazi Germany as well as the German Army. Among two other notable places to visit in Łódź is the Park of Survivors, located in a beautiful setting and honoring those who survived the Łódź Ghetto and the Polish Righteous Among the Nation. Every tree in the park was planted by a survivor. Additionally, the Jewish Cemetery contains the mass graves of the victims of the Holocaust and houses over a hundred historical monuments, which your guide can highlight. I recommend the Vienna House Andel’s Hotel if staying in Łódź, a four-star property with a historic red brick façade that housed a former weaving mill. The unique architecture, along with the warm hospitality of the staff, is quite welcoming.

Warsaw The Warsaw Uprising Museum was opened on the 60th anniversary of the outbreak of fighting in Warsaw in 2004. The museum is a tribute to Warsaw’s residents who fought and died for independent Poland and its free capital. Plan on spending at least three hours for your visit, since there are many exhibits covering several floors and containing photographic, audio, video, and interactive displays, as well as testimonies about the German occupation, the uprising, and the aftermath. Two of the most striking exhibits are the “Little Insurgent Room” dedicated to the children’s experience, including the story of Róża Maria Goździewska, a girl known as the “Little Nurse,” as well as another exhibit consisting of the

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Walkway in Auschwitz

sewer replicas used by the Polish resistance and ghetto residents to move through German-occupied territories. The Warsaw Okopowa Jewish Cemetery is the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. This necropolis was established in 1806 and contains over 250,000 marked graves, as well as mass graves of the Warsaw Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising in 1943, the Germans detonated explosives to destroy all buildings in the area of the cemetery, including the synagogue and burial monuments. Once you step inside the cemetery, the urban landscape vanishes and you are surrounded by heavily overgrown forest and greatly crowded graves. What struck me was the variety of headstones, some quite simple and others overly ornate. Please note the cemetery is closed on Saturdays.

Warsaw has two wonderful five-star hotels, the Hotel Bristol and the newly opened Raffles Europejski. The Bristol is located on the Royal Route, next to the Presidential Palace and a short walk to Old Town. The Raffles hotel is centrally located for historic sights and has several restaurants and a world-class spa. Elie Wiesel, Nobel Laureate and Holocaust survivor, once said, “Without memory, there is no culture. Without memory, there would be no civilization, no society, no future.” This thought has resonated with me powerfully since my visit to these Polish landmarks. If you are interested in additional reading and learning about other related travel sites, I recommend the books The Holocaust Sites of Europe by Martin Winstone and National Geographic Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe by Ruth Ellen Gruber. n

The Nożyk Synagogue is the only surviving prewar Jewish house of prayer in Warsaw Poland; it was completely demolished during the occupation and renovated after the war. The building was designed by the famous Warsaw architect Karol Kozłowski, who designed the Warsaw Philharmonic Orchestra Hall. The Warsaw Ghetto was a 1.3-square-mile area sealed off from the rest of the city where authorities forced all of the city’s Jewish residents to live. At its peak, more than 450,000 Jews were crammed into the ghetto, living in squalid conditions with insufficient food rations. No more than 20,000 of them survived the Holocaust. On May 16, 1943, German soldiers succeeded in liquidating the ghetto and systematically burned building after building. Today, little visibly remains, and it is easy to overlook placards, so I recommend a guided tour to reveal the haunted history.

The Park of Survivors

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12-passenger Spirit of Scotland

Barging in Europe

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Three Reasons to Invest in Your Family— and Charter a Canal Barge to Explore the European Countryside on Your Own Floating House Party! Jill Jergel ONE PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING! There are no surprise extras: the charter cost includes all (amazing) meals, daily sight-seeing in the barge’s own vehicle with a private English-speaking driver and guide, full use of the barge and its facilities (bicycles, Jacuzzi or pool on many, games onboard, etc.), and all beverages including an open bar and wines with lunch and dinner. When compared apples-to-apples against the cost of taking several rooms in a hotel, dining out for lunch and dinner, plus touring—and taking into consideration the private chef catering to your specific dietary restrictions or preferences, the private guide and the full crew attending to your every need—the value of an all-inclusive European canal barge holiday surpasses a land-based itinerary every time. Interestingly enough, several barges offer a summer reduced price for charter in the second half of July and all of August. For example, a classic boutique barge called L’Art de Vivre, featuring original wood and brass accents but updated bathrooms and a Jacuzzi on the deck, cruises the unspoiled little Canal du Nivernais, which is surely one of Burgundy’s best-kept secrets. An eight-passenger family charter in August is $35,000,** which includes the one-on-one attention of a personable four-person crew and the exceptional opportunity to live, learn, and have fun in the French countryside. Do you have a larger family? Tandem and triple tandem cruises deliver two and three times the fun! Mooring up together, guests have dine-around options, opportunities for split-interest excursions (if, for example, gents want to go golfing and ladies want to go shopping), and a virtual flotilla of interesting diversions. CULTURE COMES ALIVE FOR STUDENTS AS THEY EXAMINE HISTORIC LOCALES AND TRY REGIONAL DELICACIES UNDER THE TUTELAGE OF THE BARGE GUIDE. In most all circumstances, the crew loves to have young people onboard! It’s true that many charters consist of couples traveling together; therefore when multigenerational families come aboard, the lively crew heartily enjoys and welcomes the change of pace. Many barges have precise recruiting standards,

accepting individuals who truly enjoy interaction with all age levels, which permits parents to relax knowing that children are meeting educated young-adult crew members who are happy to welcome and engage with younger guests. Select vessels provide specific family itineraries, children’s bicycles and helmets, car seats, and high chairs at no additional cost. Examples of special family touches that can be added to a barge charter are exploring a prehistoric cave to see drawings that are 28,000 years old, hot air ballooning, learning to play boules, kayaking, or shopping with the chef in the market to help select dinner ingredients and sometimes learn some tricks in the kitchen! Children or grandchildren may find themselves steering their 126-foot vessel along a tree-lined canal, having a little splash in the barge Jacuzzi or pool, or biking together on the towpath while their parents either join them or taste a locally produced vintage on the deck. Expect authentic experiences with locals and private entrée opportunities, deliciously fresh and creative cuisine prepared just for you, attentive service, and plenty of active options. Along with the novelty of living with loved ones on a “slow boat” for a few days, the enriching shared experiences of a family barge charter are certain to be a lifelong memory. FRONTIERS HAS A HANDPICKED SELECTION OF LUXURY AND BOUTIQUE BARGES FOR EXCLUSIVE CANAL CRUISING IN EUROPE. The Frontiers portfolio of luxury and boutique barges in Europe reveals a superb cross-section of routes, levels of luxury, and budgets. With 36 years of experience, Frontiers is the most qualified company representing deluxe barges in Europe. Why? We have no ownership or fee-based bias toward any barge; some brokers do, and want guests to book only “their” barges. With our insider’s perspective, our recommendations are 100 percent objective and based solely on our guests’ interests, preferences, and availability. We know the big companies and the small, owner-operated ventures, and will help you find just the right cruise for your needs. (Continued on next page)

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Our clients say it best: Multigenerational family with their barge crew onboard the Panache

Friendly crew with La Belle Epoque barge and vehicle

Private kid’s cooking class with Barge Chef

“We had three generations of our family on this trip, and had no doubt that our children would enjoy this unique way of exploring a new culture. What we did not expect, however, was the degree to which the crew completely embraced our children, catering to them in every way! Captain Florian helped us craft and execute a custom itinerary of excursions that suited everyone’s wishes, some thoughtfully selected by him specifically for the younger members of the group. He shared his extensive knowledge of the region’s history, customs, and traditions with all of us, adding so much learning to our experience. First Mate Judith had all three generations safely on and off of the barge, with bicycles at everyone’s whim, in and out of locks seamlessly, and all without missing a beat. Chef Holly invited the children into his galley for a “kids only” private baking lesson, resulting in a delicious gourmet dessert for all to enjoy. My children say that this day was one of the top highlights of their trip, and Holly made learning French culinary technique fun for them! Our pilot, Andre, even welcomed the kids into his usually sacrosanct cockpit, and shared with them his well-guarded barge-driving secrets. All of the children were put to the test one night when they each prepared detailed speeches to introduce the wine, food, and cheese courses for our evening meal, flawlessly presented and served by them, much to the delight and approval of Chef Holly and our hosts, Kat and Regina. Overall, the children were made to feel included, important, and valued by the entire crew. For this, we as parents—and our children—will be eternally grateful. Thank you, Panache!” — M. D., Frontiers Client “I had very high expectations based on the trip itinerary and barge photos online. The cruise exceeded my expectations. Every aspect was beyond amazing.” — K.J., Frontiers Client

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Ensuite bathroom onboard Belmond’s Pivoine

Belmond’s new eightpassenger barge, Pivoine

Updates from the European Canals • An elegant 12-passenger hotel barge called Spirit of Scotland is now cruising the “Great Glen” of Scotland comprising canals and lochs from Inverness to Fort William. Savor a week exploring the dramatic Scottish Highlands in true comfort while touring the mythical castles, distilleries, and stunning scenery of this fabled region. Daily excursions include the historic Culloden Moor and Cawdor Castle, immortalized in Shakespeare’s Macbeth, plus a falconry demonstration on the banks of Loch Ness. There are plenty of opportunities for walking and hiking, while evenings afford opportunities to sample from the wide range of whiskies onboard such as the Lagavulin 16-year-old or the Dalwhinnie 15-year-old. If you’ve been looking for the “right” way to visit the Scottish Highlands, we strongly recommend the Spirit of Scotland! • Created specifically for today’s discerning traveler, the sleek and chic new eight-passenger Grand Cru provides fortunate guests with pours of Grand Cru wines with every lunch and dinner! With a silhouette of clean lines and a striking contemporary design, this handsome barge sails the historic waterways of southern Burgundy for travelers to easily enjoy familyowned châteaux, gourmet food markets, and of course the beloved vineyards of the Côte d’Or. Happy guests will soak up the pampering service in four oversized cabins boasting bathrooms with both a shower stall and a tub. Savor a private cooking class in the stateof-the-art demonstration kitchen and gaze at the starlit sky with an after-dinner liqueur in the spacious Jacuzzi on deck. This new barge is owned and has been created by a successful American builder, featuring only the finest materials and furnishings throughout. Looking for the ultimate in small-ship cruising? Passionate about Burgundy wines? Check availability today for the Grand Cru, featuring cruises on the River Saône and Canal du Centre.

• Can’t decide where to cruise? Clever London-based Belmond (formerly Orient Express), who own a fleet of seven simply splendid barges, has leaped out of the proverbial box by presenting travelers with the opportunity to sample two regions during a one-week cruise! Offering split-week cruises that combine Burgundy and Champagne, guests enjoy the plush comforts of the Amaryllis barge cruising in southern Burgundy as well as the beautifully designed new luxury barge Pivoine cruising in Champagne. The transition day traverses unspoiled French countryside with an authentic dining experience at a classic French restaurant favored by locals. Luggage is completely handled from one barge to the next, and travelers have the rare opportunity to have their cake and eat it too! Call to request the day-today itinerary for your own private Champagne and Burgundy cruise. Frontiers is a full-service international travel company with a 50-year track record and offices on both sides of the Atlantic. We are poised to assist you with all aspects of your holiday planning, including airline reservations (with special savings often available) and customized sight-seeing arrangements before or after your cruise using our network of personal contacts for finding you an exceptional guide, be it a military historian in Normandy, a personal shopper in Paris, a wine expert in Bordeaux, a horticulturalist in the Netherlands, or a storyteller in Scotland. Our barge specialist, Jill Jergel, has unparalleled firsthand experience and destination knowledge, maintaining her expertise as a Top Travel Specialist awarded by Condé Nast Traveler magazine in European canal barging for the past 15 years. Put our expertise to work for your special family holiday. n ** A crew gratuity of 7–10 percent of the charter cost is customary.

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The Douro River in Portugal

European River Cruise Control Jill Jergel

he cruise phenomenon of our time remains the astonishing popularity of the 110–190 passenger river cruises that ply the historic, fluid freeways past the Old World capitals of the European continent. The concept of gliding past some of mankind’s most splendid architectural achievements, after unpacking just once, has been exceptionally popular, and cruise lines are responding to the meteoric demand by building new ships and setting cutting-edge standards of luxury throughout the industry. WHO IS RIGHT FOR A RIVER CRUISE? The most common age group is between 40 and the mid-70s. It’s as popular for a small group of friends to book onto a ship together as it is for a couple to enjoy a romantic anniversary cruise. To clarify—a European River cruise is not a good choice for children, unless the entire departure has been designated for families. A river cruise is also not a good choice for mobility-impaired travelers, as the top observation decks of these ships are normally accessible only by stairs, and the cobbled stones of the atmospheric lanes and byways guests will tour on land can be slippery. There is little to no provision on a river cruise for travelers who are unable to keep up. Instead, the best lines like Uniworld, AMA Waterways, Crystal, and Tauck are falling over themselves to offer more and more active options such as guided bicycle and hiking excursions as well as wellness programs with daily exercise classes. Experiential options include local farm visits for tastings of cider and cheese, onboard painting, or cooking classes.

LET THE EXPERTS AT FRONTIERS GUIDE YOU TO THE RIGHT SHIP FROM THE BEGINNING. We have our finger on the pulse of the latest trends and updates. We know the new ships—like award-winning line Uniworld’s “super yacht” on the Seine, Joie de Vivre, whose innovative Club L’Esprit transforms from pool area to evening cinema and cocktail bar. AmaWaterways’ impressive new AmaMagna (twice the width of most European river ships) is truly pushing the boundaries of ship design. This new megaship features a clever water sports platform at the back end of the boat, where guests can step aboard a sundowner speedboat for an intimate little private cruise—at no extra cost! Or Crystal’s four brand-new builds, which are the only all-suite river yachts in Europe, with the largest suite measuring 883 square feet! We know which cruise lines offer truly all-inclusive products so that you’re not charged additionally for excursions, cocktails, or gratuities. We can compare and contrast your options to find the best fit for your objectives. WHAT ARE THE “IN” CRUISING DESTINATIONS? The ongoing popularity of both Danube and Rhine cruises has not diminished; either one is highly recommended for the river cruise novice. Additional considerations include northern Portugal’s UNESCO-designated Douro River Valley, which features steep, vine-covered terraces and visits to port wine estates, or vineyard hikes. Cruising the Rhone River through Provence affords excellent excursions to the numerous Roman antiquities and appealing village markets that make this corner of France justifiably popular. Uniworld’s “Conoisseur Collection”

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Lavishly appointed riverview suite onboard Uniworld’s S.S. Catherine

departures in France feature culinary-focused French cruises that take you to famous restaurants, vineyards, truffle farms, and other foodie hot spots. On their excellent new Brilliant Bordeaux itinerary, guests will have a cooking demonstration of the yummy canelé cake, a regional delicacy infused with rum and vanilla.

If you would like additional information on a European River cruise, please contact the river cruise experts at Frontiers’ Elegant Journeys department to match your objectives with the best cruise for you. n

Iceland

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Activities for Your Next Adventure in Iceland Leigh Buches

celand’s cool summers with long stretches of daylight offer quite a contrast to its shorter, colder winter days, but there is no ideal season to visit Iceland: it is a year-round destination that can be enjoyed no matter the outdoor conditions. Iceland’s weather is changeable, even in the summer months, but that does not have to put a damper on the fun. All you need is to pack smart with waterproof and windproof outerwear, warm layers, and waterproof footwear that can handle wet ground or rocky terrain. The activities are endless; listed below are just some examples of what travelers can do in Iceland to supplement a touring day.

Snowmobiling Take a ride up the Langjökull Glacier from Gullfoss Waterfall on a monster truck, otherwise known as a super jeep, where you will encounter remote, snowy terrain, regardless of the season. When you arrive at the glacier’s base camp, you will don snowsuit, helmet, and gloves. After a brief instructional session with the team of guides, your group will ride out on the glacier. Due to Iceland’s constantly shifting weather patterns, the glacier’s landscape changes from day to day, guaranteeing an exhilarating journey for the adventurous soul.

Inside the Volcano A short drive from Reykjavík will take you to the Thrihnukagigur, a crater that formed from a volcanic eruption 4,500 years ago. While magma chambers typically close up during the cooling process after an eruption, the lava flow in this eruption either solidified into the walls of the magma chamber or drained out into the earth, leaving a spacious cavern behind. From the meeting point, you will hike three miles across the sparse landscape of lava fields to get to the volcano. After a short recovery at the base camp of the volcano, where you are geared up in helmets and harnesses, you will ascend directly up the volcano to the open elevator that will take you into the magma chamber. The elevator descends 700 feet before you can exit the lift and explore the cavernous expanse of the magma chamber, where you can see colorations on the walls that illustrate the volcano’s cooling process. You will find it both thrilling and humbling to be standing in the heart of one of nature’s wonders. (Continued on next page)

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Horseback Riding

Diplomat Suite Bedroom at Hotel Konsulat in Reykjavik, Iceland

The Icelandic horse is a beloved historic breed known for its five gaits. Horse farms are located throughout the country, making a riding excursion a suitable add-on to a full itinerary. Riders of all experience levels will be able to explore the picturesque Icelandic countryside from horseback.

Northern Lights Hunt In the winter months, the Aurora Borealis appears in beautiful streaks of green and sometimes red. If you do not want to chance viewing the Northern Lights from your hotel where Reykjavík city lights or standing cloud cover could interfere, booking a Northern Lights Hunt with a private guide is a preferred option. Since the Northern Lights appear on cold, clear nights, the hunt can be scheduled for the night of your Iceland trip in which the forecast is most favorable for auroral activity. You will be driven out to areas of the Icelandic countryside with minimal light pollution and the clearest skies to capture this unforgettable phenomenon. With the exception of the winter Northern Lights Hunt, all of the activities above can be scheduled no matter what time of year it is. The glaciers may experience some melting in summer, but they are still open for snowmobilers. Comparatively, Icelandic horses are accustomed to trekking through harsh and snowy conditions. Travelers should bear in mind that any activity will be restricted if weather conditions are too severe. In the circumstance that an activity is canceled, Frontiers will assist you in finding an alternate activity that will keep the experience going in true Icelandic fashion! n

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The welcoming glow of Deplar Farm on a winter’s night

Outskirts of Akureyri

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Snowmobile safari from the mountains to the black sand beaches of the Arctic Ocean — only in Iceland!

Deplar Farm: Exploring Iceland’s Troll Peninsula Mollie Fitzgerald

ring on the subzero temperatures, the snowfall, and frozen landscapes. As long as you are prepared with adequate layers and outdoor gear and have a crackling fire to retreat to, there is nothing more beautiful than a clear winter’s day outside! Some may think me crazy, but in late January, I headed north to Iceland for a strategic winter sortie. Although Iceland has long been a favorite among Frontiers clients (we’ve been going regularly ourselves and sending clients there for the past 40+ years, long before it was trendy), current figures are staggering with an estimated 2.1 million visitors in 2017, no small feat for a tiny island nation that boasts one of the world’s highest literacy rates yet one of the smallest populations at just 337,000. All of us in the travel industry have been trying to unravel Iceland’s meteoric rise in popularity as a destination in recent years. Icelandair has expanded their lift to 18 cities in the US, and the low-cost international carrier, WOW, offers nonstop service to Iceland from 14 cities on a yearround basis. Second-tier cities like Cleveland, Kansas City,

Cincinnati, St. Louis, and my hometown of Pittsburgh are now connected with Iceland…who knew? One has to wonder where all of this demand is coming from and how Iceland’s infrastructure is dealing with all of this growth. These were just a few of the topics on my mind as I navigated the arrivals hall at Keflavik Airport, which was teeming with humanity at the uncivilized hour of our arrival, 5:45 a.m. Two quick ginger shots at the trendy Danish outpost, Joe & the Juice, cleared the cobwebs of a short night’s sleep. I’ve long known the fondness that Icelanders have for trolls—mythical, dwarf-like cave dwellers feature prominently in the country’s folklore and fables, called “sagas.” You can even have your picture taken with a dwarf outside an enterprising shop on Reykjavik’s High Street (whose unpronounceable name consists of 24 consonants!). But I knew nothing of the Troll Peninsula, in Iceland’s northwestern corner, whose spellbinding beauty revealed herself to me in the days ahead. The genesis of (Continued on next page)

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Lobster dainties, an Icelandic delicacy

this winter trip was an invitation from Eleven Experiences to visit Deplar Farm, situated on 3,000 acres on the aforementioned remote peninsula. By the way, this is not the easiest place to get to—but oh, so worth it! Iceland’s domestic flight network operates out of Reykjavik’s city airport, which is literally five minutes from downtown but unfortunately less convenient for international arrivals. We transferred from Keflavik International Airport nearly an hour into town, stopping at one of my favorite spots, Sandholt Bakery, for coffee and a pastry, and checked in with Air Iceland for our 50-minute flight north to Akureyri. We were met by Biggi, who commandeered one of the most impressive vehicles I’ve ever seen—a totally tricked-out black Mercedes Sprinter raised up on tundra tires. Its daunting height, girth, and blackout windows looked like something Star Wars character Darth Vader would covet. We set off on the 90-minute journey to Deplar, most of it on a good paved road that hugged the dramatic coastline of the Arctic Ocean, punctuated by passage through four

tunnels, one of which is 7.1 kilometers long! Our trip took more like two hours because we stopped all the time for photos, each spot more beautiful than the next. The name “Deplar” means “spots.” Back in the day, when you looked down from the mountains, the farm appeared as small spots. Turning onto the track that leads to the farm, we paused to take in the expansive view of the Fljota Valley and could barely make out the spot in the distance that was Deplar. Designed perfectly to blend into the landscape with its timber construction and grasscovered roof, this 13-room former sheep station, now considered the country’s premier luxury property, would be home for the next few nights. We were welcomed by the lovely manageress, Aslaug, with a glass of champagne and shown to our Gallery Room on the main level of the lodge which has fixed king bed, spacious bathroom, stepout balcony, and a loft accessed by ladder, which could be handy for families traveling with children. Next up was a briefing with our guide, Gestur, to plan out each precious moment of our stay, which, having been here just one hour, I realized was already way too short. He mentioned that Deplar’s very own snowcat had just groomed the Nordic ski track that encircles the lodge; and so, in spite of the setting sun, we opted to give that a try and headed next door to the Svarta Brekka, a fantasy sports shed containing every type of outdoor sporting equipment you could dream of. Donning flashlight head lamps, we headed out on cross-country skis for an hour of adrenalin-pumping exercise with a full moon rising overhead. Afterward, we retreated to the geothermal heated pool. Richie and Ivan manned the swim-up bar with an inventive array of cocktail selections.

The once derelict Ghost Farm, now a cozy destination by snowmobile

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I could have happily soaked there for hours, but all too soon it was time to move on to dinner, which was served in a quiet alcove of the Great Room. A multicourse farmto-table menu was beautifully presented featuring local specialties like whale, salmon, and cod, each complemented with a wine pairing from Richie. The plan for tomorrow was recapped: Gestur would take us on a snowmobile safari through the mountains to our lunch destination, Ghost Farm, a once-derelict outbuilding reinvented in Eleven’s inimitable style. Massages were booked for the afternoon, and I retired high on anticipation. After breakfast we headed back to the Svarta Brekka to be kitted out with snowmobile suits, helmets, and special boots. Feeling like the Michelin Man, I approached the fleet of snowmobiles with a healthy dose of trepidation— they suddenly appeared large and terrifying. Gestur suggested a practice loop around the lodge, and after barely a nanosecond I volunteered not to drive and to be a passenger! It was another beautiful day, and we set off making virgin tracks over hill and dale in a single-file line, stopping at intervals to check in on each other and take pictures of the vast and amazing surroundings. The snowmobiles were state-of-the-art with heated handlebars (which I gripped for dear life) and a luggage compartment for camera gear and day packs. At last after about 90 minutes, we could see Ghost Farm nestled in the valley and knew that a roaring fire, hot cocoa, and a fully flushing bathroom awaited us. We drove the snowmobiles right up to the snow-covered front deck, peeling off helmets and layers. Looking back down the valley, we posed this question: Is it possible to take the snowmobiles all the way to the sandy beach of the Arctic Ocean? Gestur reckoned that yes, this was indeed possible. Thinking we were in such a unique spot to experience this ourselves, we jumped back on the machines and headed for the coast. The first part of the trip was easy, flying over the crusty snow, but as we descended into the town of Ólafsfjörður, navigating

the ice-encased lanes of the town was tricky. I was so thankful not to be driving! At last we arrived at the point where the snow met the black sand beach of the sea and paused for a welldeserved photo op. Feeling hungry at this point, we were all anxious to get back to Ghost Farm, where we tucked into a hearty stew of lamb shanks personally delivered by the chef from Deplar—via snowmobile, of course. This tiny one-bedroom cottage is also used for honeymooners or couples wanting to get away from it all. We had a champagne toast and then donned all of our gear to head for home in the waning daylight. My hands were permanently cramped from holding on so tight, but I have to admit that in spite of my fear and getting a little outside of my comfort zone, it had been a spectacular day and these memories would burn brightly for months to come. I could not wait to get back into that geothermal pool! My daughter sampled the Isopod, a psychedelically lit free-form saline tank containing 1,350 kilograms of salted water, apparently great for your joints and all that ails you. Richie was spot on in the bar, enthralling us with his mixology skills and inventing a new cocktail, which he aptly named “I almost crashed my snowmobile.” It was such an exhilarating day! Deplar’s mission statement perfectly describes it: “Our purpose is to custom make powerful experiences that impact the people who impact the world”—a lofty but inspiring goal and one that Deplar Farm delivered in spades. This exclusive hideaway, a natural playground, is open on a year-round basis with heli-skiing in the spring and fly fishing, horseback riding, and mountain biking in the summer and fall. They are great with families, and this would also be an ideal takeover venue for a special event: the lodge has 13 rooms but optimal capacity is 21–22 people. It’s pricey, but all-inclusive and utterly unforgettable. n

Deplar’s geo-thermal pool with swim up bar

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The Chef’s Table at Moss Restaurant

The Retreat at The Blue Lagoon entrance

The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon Sets a New Luxury Standard for Iceland Leigh Buches

he Blue Lagoon is one of the most popular destinations in Iceland, receiving over a million visitors a year. Just 20 minutes from the international airport, the geothermally heated waters contain silica, which are said to have healing properties for the skin. The Blue Lagoon is open to the public, but for those who want to enjoy the best parts of the Blue Lagoon as a private spa experience, there is the newly opened Retreat. The Retreat is the first hotel of its kind in Iceland, specializing in luxury accommodations and individualized spa treatments. The hotel suites are designed as a continuation of the landscape outside with natural colors and textures. Floor-to-ceiling windows let in the light and provide expansive views of the moss-covered black rocks in the surrounding lava fields. An overnight booking will include unlimited access to the Retreat Spa and the Blue Lagoon. If you have other overnight plans, you have the option to book a four-hour day visit to the Retreat Spa. The spa is made up of various chambers throughout the property, each one dedicated to a different aspect of the rejuvenation process. Cozy lounges, a warm fireplace, the soothing falling water of the lava spring, and an earthen steam cave provide refuge from the world. The Retreat has its own private lagoon, where you can relax and recharge with their signature 120-minute full-body inwater massage. You can have a more standard massage on a table with the option to include hot stones. You can also add on a manicure, pedicure, facials, and other beauty treatments. Masks and massage oils of silica,

algae, and other minerals are created with your skin type in mind. For those who want the ultimate private spa experience, there is the option to book Lava Cove. This private suite has its own lagoon with a wood-burning fireplace, kitchen, butler, on-call chef, on-call masseuse, and on-call yoga instructor. Bookings must be made in advance. Guests at the hotel will be assisted by their own personal Retreat host during their stay, who will discuss their treatments in advance to make a customized spa package. The host will take care of your needs to ensure that you have no cares other than what bathing suit to wear. After a day of self-care at the spa, satiate your appetite with a gourmet meal at Moss Restaurant. Located on the highest point of the building, the restaurant offers panoramic views of moss and rock that stretch out to the shield volcanoes in the distance. The menu is constantly changing based on availability and seasonality of ingredients, most of which are sourced from local farms and geothermal greenhouses. A five-course, a sevencourse, and a vegan tasting menu all offer inventive and appetizing takes on Icelandic cuisine. Whether it is to recover from a long overseas flight or to slow down after a full day of activities, the Retreat is the perfect place to relax and capture the essence of Iceland. Frontiers will work with your Retreat host to ensure that the classic Icelandic experience of geothermal bathing is designed with your personal comfort and well-being in mind. n

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“Downward Facing Wolf” this photo took second prize in the annual Virtuoso Photo Contest

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Dances with Wolves (and Northern Lights) Introducing Norway’s Wolf Lodge Mollie Fitzgerald

admit it—I love winter! I’ll take a cold, frosty, snowcovered morning any time over a hot, steamy summer afternoon! The stillness of winter, its silence and hidden beauties, have always held a source of wonder for me. I recently learned about a place above the Arctic Circle where you commune with wolves from my Norwegian friend, Christine, who is also our trusted on-site supplier in my favorite Scandinavian country. She’d suggested it for a family looking for a short winter break where they could “be” with nature and possibly see the Aurora Borealis. Knowing virtually nothing about wolves, I was absolutely spellbound by the photos and did not miss a beat when she insisted I come and take a look for myself! We flew nonstop nearly two hours due north from Oslo to a small outpost city, located at 68 degrees latitude, called Bardufoss. From there, it is a 50-minute drive to Wolf Lodge, nestled within the wolf enclosure of Polar Park, the northernmost animal park in the world. The arrival experience is unlike any other: after passing through two locked gates, you walk through a long tunnel into the lodge itself—secure from the apparent danger that lurks outside! This cozy, intimate lodge boasts three luxuriously appointed rooms with en suite bathroom, floor-to-ceiling windows, a roaring fireplace, and an open kitchen and attractive dining nook, ensuring that you spend your isolated escape from the outside world in sumptuous comfort. The ambiance and “sense of place” was pluperfect. Our private chef, Bard, had a light but delicious dinner for us, in spite of our late arrival. We met Stig Sletten, who is the park’s head animal keeper and, in my mind, will always be “the Wolf Whisperer.” He is a soft-spoken man but has a commanding presence, and he regaled us with tales of encounters with these mystical and majestic creatures. Sleep came fast, and I swear the eiderdown duvet was 14 inches thick. Daybreak came about 7:30 a.m. during my mid-February visit, and I could tell it would be a bluebird day, which meant optimal conditions for photography. I wasn’t the only one waking up—a few minutes later, I had my first wolf sighting as two wolves frolicked in the snow literally outside my window. Although technically part of the canine family, they are taller and more sturdily built than any husky-type dog I’ve ever seen. There are a total of five wolves within the enclosure: Broge, Marit, Froya, Peder, and Frigg.

The sightings continued over breakfast with intermittent photo breaks through the windows of the lodge, anticipation building all the while of actually meeting the wolves face-to-face. Stig then held a very thorough orientation session, talking us through the what-to-do’s and perhaps more importantly the what-not-to-do’s (no baby talk, no sudden movements, no loud voices). The lodge provides absolutely everything you need in terms of polar gear, and there’s very little point in bringing your own outdoor clothing because you cannot wear anything made of an animal product – so that rules out wool, down, and fur! Furthermore, when you enter the wolf enclosure, you cannot wear any accessories—no sunglasses, hats, gloves, scarves, or anything in your hair, etc., as apparently those items attract the wolves’ interest. Thank goodness, they seem to be immune to cameras. So we slipped into borrowed Polartec pants and coats and summoned up a big dose of courage to follow Stig, single-file, with arms crossed as instructed, into the fenced in enclosure with his assistant, Anita, bringing up the rear. Kneeling, we took a submissive posture, and it did not take long for the wolves to circle around us and come to investigate us. They are wild but have been socialized to human contact and are very inquisitive. Unnervingly, the way that a wolf says hello and checks you out is by (Continued on next page)

Northern Lights dance over Wolf Lodge

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nuzzling your face and licking you; occasionally they will even lick inside your mouth, a “canine French kiss.” I tentatively removed my hand from the warmth of my pocket to pet Marit as she lapped up my tears of joy. It was equal parts exhilaration, adrenalin-induced fear, and pure fun. Our 30 minutes with the wolves flew by, but my bare hands, nose, ears, and face, numb from the 15-degree temperatures, confirmed it was time to withdraw. A hearty lunch awaited us, and while on the one hand we wanted to toast our extraordinary morning, if we wanted to revisit the wolves in the afternoon (which of course we did!) alcohol at lunch was strictly forbidden. Normally during a three-night stay, guests can anticipate interacting two or three times each day with the wolves for these short intervals. You also have access to the rest of the Polar Park on an after-hours basis—reindeer, brown bear, and lynx are among the attractions. There are a myriad of other outdoor activities to enjoy depending on the season, such as dogsledding, snowmobiling, and skiing in the winter plus zip-lining, mountain biking, fjord cruises, whale watching, and more in the summer, when of course the sun never slips over the horizon!

Wolf whisperers, Anita and Stig

We opted to visit the lynx after lunch, again with the opportunity to get inside the enclosure and be with the animals after a safety chat from Stig and Anita, who

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Arctic Lynx

Mollie gets a wolf kiss!

Things to Know about Wolf Lodge

carried buckets of raw meat offered up as rewards for good behavior! The lynx were a little more reticent than the wolves, and fortunately there were no lynx kisses, as they kept their distance. Our afternoon visit with the wolves was totally different from the morning—perhaps they felt more comfortable with us and vice versa? The daylight faded fast and we were treated to a chorus of howling, the way the animals communicate with each other. It was bone-chilling and awe-inspiring at the same time. Next up was an early evening hike into a nearby valley, where we met a Saami resident who’d built a bonfire in anticipation of our visit. As we sipped hot glühwein, almost as if on cue the Northern Lights appeared and danced across the horizon. It was one of those “pinchme” moments—could the day really get any better? We’d done so much already! We sat mesmerized for some time as the white light gave way to shades of neon green and returned to white again—it is truly poetry in motion. The lights disappeared as quickly as they’d arrived, and we retreated to the warmth of our lodge. Over another fabulous dinner from Bard, we bombarded Stig with dozens of questions about wolves, marveling at what a heady day we’d had (drinks are A-OK in the evening!) As our short stay at Wolf Lodge drew to a close, I knew that we’d had a very special experience, one that I would treasure for the rest of my life. n

This is for private, exclusive take-over parties only—a maximum of six adults (or eight if there are children) and minimum three-night stay. Children under age 12 are not permitted to enter the wolf enclosure, nor are pregnant women or anyone with a physical impediment. An all-inclusive experience includes wildlife host, private chef, photographer to document your stay, all meals and beverages, outdoor gear, transport, and activities. It also includes a donation to the Polar Park Wolf Welfare Fund. Upon reflection, it is important to point out that the Polar Park is essentially an open-air zoo—albeit tastefully done—but I am aware that this concept may not hold universal appeal. Wolf Lodge is not open to the public and is operated on a very exclusive basis, but there are fences around the property. What appealed to me was the dedication of Stig and Anita to their pack of wolves (Stig has been involved with the park since its inception in 1994), the enrichment they provided, the interaction we had with the wolves, and the genuine Nordic experience of staying at this upscale lodge. It is absolutely perfect for avid photographers, wildlife enthusiasts, and anyone wanting a supremely comfortable wilderness experience. It is a wonderful stand-alone trip but also pairs nicely with the Ice Hotel at Sorissniva, farther north in Alta, or a stay at the lovely Villa Amot down south. Contact Mollie Fitzgerald for more information and find out why she’s been visiting Norway annually for over 20 years! n

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Africa Landscape surrounding Bisate Lodge

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Revisiting Rwanda Kathy Schulz

I first traveled to Rwanda ten years ago, and after numerous trips to the African continent, it is still one of the most memorable and exciting adventures I have ever taken. At that time, mountain gorilla trekking was just starting to become popular, but with a limited number of permits, only a select few were granted the incredible opportunity to visit these gentle giants in the wild.

ince then, Rwanda has emerged as one of the hottest destinations for luxury travelers and tourism has risen 30 percent in the last two years alone. There are now 80 gorilla trekking permits available per day (versus 56 permits back in 2008 during my last trip— or seven gorilla groups versus 10 gorilla groups in 2018), and renowned hospitality and conservation companies like Wilderness Safaris, Singita, and One&Only are opening new lodges in the high-altitude cloud forests of Volcanoes National Park. When invited by one of our top on-site suppliers to come back to Rwanda this past year and stay at one of the most highly acclaimed new properties, Wilderness Safaris’ BISATE LODGE, I simply jumped at the opportunity. Bisate Lodge, boasting six exclusive villas and located near Volcanoes National Park, opened in June 2017. It is part of Wilderness’s largest conservation effort to date along with being a significant community project employing many locals, some who even used to be former poachers. I had the pleasure of participating in Bisate’s reforestation program by planting a Hagenia bulb near the lodge. Each visitor gets to play a small part by helping to place a fledgling tree into a hole in the ground; nearly 15,000 trees have already been planted by Wilderness. Guests are assisted with the planting by a staff member and then encouraged to return someday to see how their tree has grown. The drive to Bisate Lodge is a scenic three-hour journey from the capital city, Kigali, and one can definitely appreciate how the country received its nickname “land of a thousand hills.” Upon our approach to Bisate on a chilly spring evening, we drove around one last bend and the mountainside seemed to light up like a Christmas tree. We were greeted by the charming Swedish managers, Rob and Ingrid, along with their exceptional staff, who welcomed us with a beautiful local song and dance. We were led to Forest Villa #2, which, similar to the other five units, is an opulent en suite villa maximizing comfort and breathtaking views while reflecting the culture of surrounding rural Rwanda. The accommodations are superb, as is the excellent food and service.

Mount Bisoke is one of several volcanoes in the Virunga chain, and every room at Bisate Lodge offers a frontrow seat to its majesty. The Virungas are home to more than half the area’s 880 endangered mountain gorillas, the same primates Diane Fossey studied in the 1970s and ’80s. The chance to visit them in their natural rain forest habitat is a bucket list item that draws visitors from across the globe to these peaks, which straddle the border with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Gorilla treks can originate in each country, but Rwanda has emerged as the high-end experience. Bisate is within easy driving distance of the park headquarters where gorilla treks depart daily. Guests are able to request short, medium, or long treks, a new feature since my last visit to Rwanda. Since we had a full day ahead of us, which included numerous lodge inspections, we requested a short trek. Much to our surprise, it only took us 45 minutes on a gradual slope to get to the Agashya Group. After spending one magical hour with their 23 members (one silverback, 12 females, seven babies, and three juveniles), we reluctantly headed back to the park headquarters with dreams of returning again soon. Of course, there are never any guarantees of seeing the gorillas or how long a trek might take, but please keep in mind that an average gorilla trek can take three to ten hours. (Continued on next page)

Dinner with views of Karisimbi Volcano at Bisate Lodge

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Bisate Lodge guest villa

Until recently, the tourism focus has been on the gorillas. But Wilderness Safaris has announced the launch of a new camp with additional options in Akagera National Park opening in late spring of 2019. Magashi Camp will be situated in the northeastern part of Akagera, overlooking Lake Rwanyakazinga. Not far from the country’s eastern border with Tanzania, this setting primarily consists of grassy plains and woodlands, and is completely different from Volcanoes National Park. Akagera affords guests the opportunity to pair a savannah safari that includes viewing a number of species such as hippos, buffalo, lion, leopard, elephant, giraffe, spotted hyaena, and zebra with a gorilla experience. These beautiful sister properties, Magashi and Bisate, allow guests the opportunity to enhance their time in Rwanda by experiencing vastly different landscapes and ecosystems. Magashi Camp will consist of six tents and offer safari game drives in Akagera National Park, which also boasts almost 500 species of birds including the amazing shoebill and the near-endemic red-faced barbet.

An encounter with a silverback gorilla can be a hairraising experience and is truly one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on earth. Now with the transformation of the 247,000 acre Akagera National Park, teeming with wildlife and providing some of the most scenic savannah in East Africa, Rwanda is further emerging as a tourism leader in long-term sustainability with an extraordinary landscape. The welcoming people, lush landscapes, and other wildlife attractions make it a stand-alone destination or an ideal addition to any African safari. n

Rwanda vs. Uganda How To Get There: Parc National des Volcans, Rwanda: Fly to Kigali International Airport; 2 1/2 –3 hour drive or 30-minute helicopter transfer Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda: Fly to Entebbe International Airport; 1 1/2 hour flight to Kihihi plus 45-minute drive

“Congratulations Frontiers Travel on 50 years, and thank you for a fantastic partnership! Our warmest wishes on this milestone anniversary and here’s to the next 50 years as we work towards a century of providing remarkable travel experiences together.” Luke Bailes, Founder and Executive Chairman – Singita

Gorilla Permits: $1,500 per person per day in Rwanda $650 per person per day in Uganda

Best Time to Go: Both countries are year-round destinations although the “dry seasons” are considered to be May– September and December–February The Frontiers team has experienced gorilla trekking in both countries and is happy to compare and contrast the options. But book well in advance to avoid disappointment!

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Balinese star bed at Ruckomechi camp

Zimbabwe—Back on the Radar! Eileen Datt

Zimbabwe is a bit of a secret, with some of the greatest wilderness and wildlife areas in southern Africa. There’s no denying that the country’s political turmoil and economic woes did lessen its bucket-list appeal in recent decades, but Zimbabwe is back in the game.

ith a new government in place, and the crackdown on poaching, the wildlife is flourishing and roaming the expansive savannahs once again.

There’s been a shift from safari operators boycotting the country toward supporting its return onto the southern African circuit where it once played a starring role. Condé Nast Traveler named Zimbabwe one of the “Best Places to Travel in 2017,” and Lonely Planet rated it three out of the 10 best places to visit in 2019. You’ll see not only the Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros, and leopard) but so much more! The country is also renowned for its birdlife, with more than 600 species recorded countrywide. Here are some reasons why you should add Zimbabwe to your bucket list: • Abundant wildlife: The diverse and remote landscape creates concentrations of game. • Great value for money: The nightly rates in Zimbabwe are approximately 40 percent less than neighboring Botswana. Since the currency changed from the now-worthless Zimbabwean dollar to the globally-accepted US dollar in 2009, travelers have more confidence in the country, and tourists are returning to this reborn destination. • New upscale properties: There are new properties popping up all the time, and the older, more traditional

properties have all seen a recent makeover and continue to win prestigious awards. • Quality guides: The Zimbabwe Guides License is not just the most difficult to get but also the most thorough in terms of training, with a four-year certification process plus a minimum of two years working under the tutorship of a safari guide with a full license. In addition, they must pass an extensive week-long practical examination to ensure their knowledge of firearms skills in order to earn their professional safari guide license. It’s no wonder they are the most highly sought after guides throughout Africa. • Five World Heritage Sites: Victoria Falls, Mana Pools National Parks, the Great Simbabwe Ruins, the Khami Ruins and Matobo National Park. • Easily accessible: The recently opened $150 million Victoria Falls Airport is allowing direct international flights to land for the first time. It has the potential to double the number of visitors and even serve as a commercial hub providing access to neighboring Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia. Both British Airways and South African Airways are among the major airlines currently flying into Victoria Falls. Qatar Airways and Etihad Airways have also expressed an interest in serving the new hub. Never has there been a better reason, or a better time to go! n

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The elusive Pangolin in the Kalahari Desert

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Africa’s Call of the Wild Kathy Schulz

safari in Africa is indisputably a trip of a lifetime and one that features highly on most travelers’ bucket list. But for many of us, in spite of having ticked the box, Africa calls us back again and again. We have clients who make the pilgrimage annually! The word “safari” is a Swahili term that means “journey,” and of course every journey is unique and each day unveils new adventures and surprises. If you hear Africa calling you back, and you wish to take your African adventures a bit deeper, here are some ideas for the safari veteran: • Be one of the lucky few taking part in a rhino darting safari at PHINDA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE in South Africa, thus playing an active role in the ongoing conservation of this remarkable species. • Catch a glimpse into our primal past by looking into the deep, dark eyes of a MOUNTAIN GORILLA up close and personal in Rwanda or Uganda. • Participate in a “SAFARI WITH A PURPOSE” by becoming part of a crucial elephant collaring project in Tanzania or rhino darting project in South Africa. • Meet some of the 32 TYPES OF LEMURS in existence today, which are endemic to Madagascar, the world’s fourth-largest island. • Visit the abundance of lesser known but equally intriguing and historically important PYRAMIDS AND PHARAONIC TREASURES IN SUDAN along with Sudan’s very friendly people. • Enjoy WORLD-CLASS DIVING (including Great White Shark Cage Diving and cavorting with the penguins or other Marine Big 5) in South Africa. • Satisfy your adventurous side by ROCK CLIMBING IN ETHIOPIA, a country of extremes with endless routes and a large variety of grades. It’s also a country full of amazing history and culture. • Interact with and observe ELEPHANTS IN THEIR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT, foraging in the bush, walking through the reserve, or swimming in the waterhole at Camp Jabulani (which ceased to offer elephant back rides in 2017) and is now creating public awareness of the plight of these animals. • SAFARI BY CAMEL. Walk with professional Samburu or Maasai warriors and camel train through the deserted (Continued on next page)

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Bushman Rock Paintings

“Abercrombie & Kent is proud of our long-standing relationship with Frontiers, a team of professional travel advisors that share our passion for travel and have established the highest industry standards. We value our partnership, one based on a shared commitment to delivering memorable experiences with unparalleled expertise, inspired service and seamless attention to detail. I join my global A&K team in congratulating Mike and Mollie on Frontiers’ 50th Anniversary milestone.” Geoffrey Kent, Abercrombie & Kent

wilderness of Northern Kenya with nights spent in fly camps under the stars. • Spot Namibia’s desert-adapted elephant, lion, and rhino while being captivated by the impressive and ever-changing landscapes of the NAMIB DESERT, SOSSUSVLEI, AND THE SKELETON COAST. • View BUSHMEN ROCK CARVINGS IN THE KALAHARI that may be up to 380,000 years old, followed by an early evening safari tracking the elusive aardvark and pangolin. • Bookend a photographic safari by relishing a few days on the STUNNING BEACHES OF MOZAMBIQUE OR THE SEYCHELLES. Whatever your dream or desire, let our experts at Frontiers book your next adventure to Africa. n

Planning for Africa in 2020?

or most travelers, a journey to Africa awards priceless memories that last a lifetime. Planning it properly and well in advance is the key to securing the best accommodations and creating a sensational overall experience. The truth of the matter is that many of our preferred properties, which are located in the best game viewing areas, are small, intimate camps that might only have three or four units available. Space can quickly fill up, especially if you are traveling with a family and need a few rooms or you wish to arrange for private guides, private vehicles, private charters, and exclusive lodges. We are still designing amazing itineraries for 2019, but our in-house Africa experts at Frontiers truly shine when we are able to suggest and secure space at our top recommendations for facilities that we know will best meet your objectives. Although we recommend booking in advance, this does not mean that we are unable to fill your lastminute bookings as well. Give us a call—we are more than happy to plan your trip to Africa! n

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Antandroy Tribe performing traditional dancing and singing

Madagascar Lunch on Manafiafy Beach

Eileen makes friends with a chameleon at Peyrieras Reptile Reserve

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Madagascar, a Kaleidoscope of Nature! Eileen Datt

Madagascar has always been high on my bucket list, as I crave traveling to the most exotic, less-traveled, remote corners of the world to explore nature. The island has been described as an “alternate world” because of the uniqueness and rarity of many of its plant and animal species. This is a land of picturesque landscapes, white sand beaches, tropical rain forest, and mountains teeming with weird and wonderful yet harmless creatures.

adagascar is the world’s fourth largest island and a truly matchless destination. I recently had the pleasure of exploring this remarkably diverse ecosystem with more than 100 species of lemurs, 285 species of birds, 300 species of reptiles, and 15,000 plant species, not to mention being a chameleon paradise with new species still being discovered. The Malagasy people are some of the most genuine and friendly I’ve met in my travels. And diverse—this country of more than 22 million people has 18 different tribes, each with its own dialect. We started our three-hour drive east from the capital city of Antananarivo (Tana) to Perinet (Perinet is the French name for Andasibe). The road is well maintained, as it is the main transport for goods from the port to Tana, but it is very narrow and full of curves and twists! Our drive took us through rural towns, rice fields, valley walls, and roadside stalls selling the seasonal harvest. One of my warmest memories was stopping to stretch our legs on the way to Vakona Forest Lodge. We walked through a local village that seemed deserted until we heard singing coming from a nearby church. When we entered, the congregation welcomed us and invited us to sit down and witness several baptisms. When we left, most of the parishioners followed us and wanted to take pictures with us. We arrived at Vakona Forest Lodge, which is found just four miles from the small town of Andasibe, next to Parc National d’Andasibe-Mantadia. This nature-lover’s paradise consists of 28 comfortable bungalows scattered throughout the hillside, which slopes down to the lake, surrounded by lavish tropical plants and flowers. The lush garden setting is frequented by a variety of rare birds. The main reception area and lounge has a cozy fireplace and huge windows overlooking the forest and lake. Vakona has its own private reserve where you can hike, horseback ride, and mountain bike.

After settling into my room, I couldn’t wait to start my first adventure with a visit to Lemur Island. The lodge operates a center for rescued lemurs that were once captured by the locals and taken home as pets. The five small islands provide a home for the lemurs until they can be reintroduced into the wild. It is now home to five types of lemur: gray bamboo, rufous brown, black-and-white ruffed, common brown, and one diademed sifaka. As soon as our canoe touched the island, we were met by these adorable, habituated creatures. They had no problem jumping onto my shoulder and head as our guide handed them a piece of fruit. On Lemur Island, you get a totally different experience, as they are all very used to humans. We enjoyed our time with them so much that we decided to work a second visit in the following morning before our hike in Mantadia National Park. Mantadia and Andasibe were once one park called the Perinet Special Reserve, but they were divided when the French arrived and built a town in between. Mantadia National Park is quite close to Vakona Forest Lodge, but the main gate entrance is about an hour’s drive. This park (Continued on next page)

A common brown lemur on Lemur Island

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Grey bamboo lemur on Lemur Island

Visiting the local school in Antandroy village

Local villagers working in a sisal plantation near Fort Dauphin

is larger and has more varied altitude than Andasibe. Those two things, combined with it being a virtually untouched primary forest, result in some exceptional animal sightings and breathtaking scenery. There are several hiking trails depending on your fitness level. The following morning we set out in search of the critically endangered Indri Lemur, the largest remaining lemur. Larger species existed in the past but went extinct due in part to hunting by humans. They can weigh up to 21 pounds and live to be about 60–80 years old. The Indri is the only lemur that cannot survive in captivity, so it is crucial that its natural habitat be protected. Interestingly enough, the Indri is one of the only species of singing primates in the world. Its musical tones can be heard by humans over a mile away. They live in small groups consisting of the mated male and female and their maturing offspring, and communicate with other groups by singing. We arrived in Andasibe early in the morning to search for the Indri, since the peak singing hours are between 7:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m. As we started down the trail, we could hear their distinctive and almost eerie haunting call. As soon as one Indri starts to sing, most of the troop members join in, and they tend to synchronize their notes and match each other’s rhythms. I thought they were just around the corner, but it turns out we had to walk for 30 minutes before we reached

them. It was difficult to photograph them since they were so high up in the trees, but I was content to just listen, as I’ve never heard anything quite like their calls. These precious black-and-white creatures reminded me of teddy bears, and I was so thankful to be in the rain forests of Madagascar enjoying the symphony above me. The second portion of our journey took us to the southeastern region of Madagascar, which was much warmer and drier. We landed in Fort Dauphin after a two-hour flight from Antananarivo. Our four-hour road transfer took us over the Ifaho River, past endless eucalyptus trees and sisal plants, rain forests, spiny forests, and green rice fields. We drove through various villages and observed the locals going about their daily lives. Everyone seemed busy; I watched men herding slow-moving zebu (cattle), women carrying baskets on their heads, people riding bicycles carrying fruit or live chickens on their backs, children walking to school, and people holding long sticks on their shoulders with huge fish dangling on each side. Most didn’t wear shoes, and almost everyone waved or smiled as we rode past. What a simple life, yet so very hard. The majority of Malagasy people are extremely poor, but they are the happiest people I’ve met. The children would run to the edge of the road and say hello in English, giggle, and run away. We were met with cold washcloths and drinks at Mandrare River Camp. It exceeded my every expectation, from the memory foam beds in the tents to the delicious

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Madagascar pygmy kingfisher in the Spiny Forest

food and friendly, attentive staff. Our guide, Franklin, was a walking book of knowledge, and led us on the most fascinating expedition in the gallery and spiny forests, where we saw the Verreaux’s sifaka, mouse, sportive, and ring-tailed lemurs. In the evening, we began our walk in the eerie and prehistoric spiny forest, listening to the sound of cicadas as we pointed our headlamps in the trees in search of nocturnal chameleons, owls, lemurs, and birds. Around 95 percent of the original flora in the spiny forests is endemic, which makes it the most unique ecoregion in Madagascar. The ecosystem here is among the oldest forest types on the planet, having evolved hundreds of millions of years ago to cope with the arid conditions that it still faces today. It’s not just the wildlife experiences here that are so special. The area is also home to the Antandroy tribe, regarded by some as the fiercest and most traditional tribe in Madagascar. The tribe is largely unaffected by the outside world, holding onto their strong beliefs and customs. On a village visit, we learned about their complex funeral rites. Upon a death, family members organize a communal funeral feast. Zebu are sacrificed and their meat given to the community. Transfer of the coffin to the tomb may take as long as several months while the building is completed. Once the coffin has been placed, the deceased’s house is then destroyed by fire to complete the funeral rites. The skulls of the zebu slaughtered for the funeral feast are placed on top of the tomb to indicate the deceased’s wealth. Later that evening, we were pleasantly surprised when members of the Antandroy tribe entertained us with their ancient, traditional music and dance as we enjoyed sundowners watching the sun set over the baobabs. I awoke early because I wanted to spend time at the market before driving to Manafiafy Beach Lodge. Madagascar has an abundant market culture where the majority of foods are purchased. Weekly markets are held in the rural areas, and people walk for miles carrying their goods to be sold. Men, women, and children participate in selling meats, fish, live chickens, and medicine. The colorful clothing hanging from the stalls waved in the breeze, mingling with the aromas from grilled food. I felt like a bit of a celebrity as everyone seemed more interested in coming up to say hello to me than they were in shopping! After an interesting drive passing ancient tombs, red pineapples, and carnivorous pitcher plants, we arrived at Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge. With a pristine location on a stunning stretch of white sand along a beautiful bay fringed with forest-covered mountains

Yerraux’s sifaka lemur in the Gallery Forest

and wildlife-rich mangroves, they offer well-appointed accommodations and exceptional cuisine, as well as a lot of fun! My favorite meal during my visit was freshly caught fish that the chef prepared while we relaxed on the beach and watched two young boys catch octopus. The lodge also offers a variety of activities. The bay is sheltered and thus great for both swimming and snorkeling. Day and night walks in the rain forest surrounding the lodge provide excellent lemur and birding opportunities. Whale watching can also be enjoyed June–November. You can kayak, canoe, and take boat trips to nearby islands for picnic lunches. Manafiafy has five spacious and extremely comfortable rooms, each with large balconies overlooking the beach. As I lay in my bed listening to the sounds of the waves from the Indian Ocean crashing against the shore, I drifted off peacefully to sleep each night without a worry in the world. Few places on earth offer such a powerful kaleidoscope of nature. Sadly, Madagascar’s wildlife is at great risk as a result of deforestation and poaching. Thankfully, tourism is now a priority for Madagascar’s new government, and they have drastically increased funding to promote the island as an ecotourism destination. Even though Madagascar is an up-andcoming destination, now is the time to visit this pristine wildlife, as it still is very untouched by today’s world! n

My room at the Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge

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Caribbean Update and Yoga Retreats Cindy Smith

have been in the travel business for 30 years, with my specialty being the Caribbean and Central America. I have visited most of the destinations and have been selling the islands for years. With the devastating damage done in 2017 from Hurricanes Irma and Mitch, and the devastation in Texas from Harvey, it is sobering to see the destruction such storms can cause. We are very pleased to see that most properties have been able to reopen and are looking forward to seeing their guests return. The sun still shines brightly, the beaches are back (some even larger), the vegetation has returned (it is the tropics!), and many hotels took the opportunity to refurbish as needed. Hotels are always looking for ways to interest their guests, and yoga has become quite popular in the islands. Many properties have added yoga classes to their spa menus, and a few are even doing yoga retreats. With a tranquil setting, and many guests who are looking for a restorative vacation, there has never been a better time or place for yoga! The BodyHoliday on St. Lucia during October becomes the ultimate yoga retreat: Octoba Yoga. It is designed for everyone from beginners to the more advanced, led by experienced teachers. With limitless lessons all day from sunrise to sunset featuring Hatha, Ashtanga, Shanthi, and Katti yoga and meditation classes, there is truly something for all types of yoga enthusiasts. The retreat also includes a dedicated menu of yogic foods as well as an array of special massage and therapeutic treatments at the wellness center. If October is not an option, they also offer week-long retreat programs for either yoga or weight loss all year long!

Another property that offers annual yoga retreats is COMO Parrot Cay on Turks and Caicos. Surrounded by crystal-clear turquoise waters, its 3.2 miles of white sand beaches make for the perfect escape. Groves of cactus and thickly entwined scrub and spreading mangroves and wetlands accent the beauty of the island’s 1,000 secluded acres paired with relaxed luxury. This year the property is holding the Well of Grace Workshop with Elena Brower. Brower is an experienced yoga teacher who has been practicing since 1990. She is respected across the world for her distinct blend of alignment and attention in her teaching of yoga and meditation. She has authored two books, The Art of Attention and Practice You: A Journal, which is being incorporated into yoga teachings worldwide. She aims to teach her clients innermost wisdom, focusing on self-awareness and self-discovery, exploring sequences of yoga and meditation with the goal to inspire change. The retreat is normally in November, but all year the hotel offers sunrise yoga and a variety of activities daily in the Yoga Pavilion. Anguilla was hit especially hard last year but has come back better than ever. Most of the hotels and restaurants will be open by the end of 2018. The Four Seasons Anguilla offers a variety of yoga classes al fresco with views of the sea. The Belmond Cap Juluca is set to open in December and will feature a small, intimate spa that will offer yoga for all learners. The Caribbean is almost back to normal and offers much more than just sitting on the beach. Namaste! n

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South America

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Views of Quebrada De Humhuaca in Jujuy

The Hidden Gems of Argentina Elaine Wissolik

rgentina’s northwest (Salta and Jujuy) - The states of Salta and Jujuy are one of the “hidden gems” of Argentina, blessed with spectacular landscapes, good weather year round and a rich cultural heritage. This area was part of the Inca Empire at the height of their expansion during the 16th century. Unlike Buenos Aires or Patagonia, which were populated mainly by European settlers, this is the one area where pre-Columbian customs are very much present and alive in the traditions of the people today. The charm and character of this region lies in the Andean culture and folklore, in the architecture of its small towns, the local cuisine, music and religious festivities.

tones from red to greens, which forms this specular wild landscape of multihued sandstone of unearthly rock formation. Tour the bodegas , or the wine store/cellar of the Calchaquíes Valleys in Cafayate, which is famous for its white Torrontés grape and wines. Admire colonial architecture in Salta city and then catch El Tren a las Nubes, otherwise known as the train to the clouds. The train trundles through the mountains to a plateau, some 13,845 feet (or 4,220 meters) above sea level. (Continued on next page) The spectacular and wild landscape of Argentina

There are a myriad of things to do in this region of Argentina. Visit the picturesque towns of Humahuaca and Tilcara in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, to see how Andean cultures live today. Or take a road trip through two of the country’s most dramatic and scenic routes, La Quebrada de Cafayate and La Quebrada de Las Flechas. Sediments from the twisted canyon exhibit a stunning array of

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Quebrade de las Flechas canyon, a natural monument with eroded cliffs

For those visitors seeking more adrenaline, you can enjoy some extreme sports, like white water rafting on the Río Juramento or bungee jumping from a bridge at Dique Cabra Corral. There is also great trekking, horseback riding and mountain biking for active travelers.

most notably during the carnival festivities, when locals hit the streets to pay homage to Pachamama, the Incan goddess of fertility.

City of Salta

Approximately 125 miles (200 kilometers) south of Salta is the town of Cafayate, the gateway to the Calchaquies Valleys. Cafayate is the second largest wine producing region in Argentina, second only to Mendoza. The town is laid back and peaceful, centered round a main square. Visitors have a choice of hotels and guesthouses, as well as excellent restaurants and great opportunities to visit the vineyards and wineries.

The city of Salta was founded in 1582, and it is the gateway to the northwest region. It is a city where the old converges with the new, and where the old comes out on top. Time often feels as though it has stood still around the cobblestone streets of the city center, which is filled with colonial era architecture. Tradition runs deep here,

Cafayate and the Calchaquies Valleys

Quebrada De Humahuaca (a narrow mountain valley located in the province of Jujuy)

Colorful fabric available for purchase at the Purmamarca market

The magnificent Quebrada de Humahuaca is a mountain valley route that runs approximately 96 miles (155 kilometers) long, alongside the Río Grande. This was once part of El Camino del Inca, one of the main trade routes of the Inca Empire and has been in use for some 10,000 years. Several small towns and village are spread along this gorge, namely Humahuaca, Uquia, Purmamarca and Tilcara.

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The Big Salt Plains This immense salt desert is located on the Argentine border with Chile, at an average altitude of 11,320 feet (or 3,450 meters) above sea level. Here, stark lines clearly separate the vast blue sky and the silverywhite, fissured ground, with the shimmering salt flats stretching into the background of the Andes Mountains. Local artists can be seen at work on the flats, carving sculptures by inspired from the landscape and creating wondrous pieces that glimmer beneath the fierce sun. The region is great to visit at any time of the year and city of Salta is particularly famous for possessing an agreeable year-round climate. If there is an ideal time to come, it is spring and the beginning of summer (September to December.) During this period daytime temperatures fluctuate between 74°F and 84°F (23°C and 30°C), with lows rarely falling below 50°F (10°C). Spring is also a part of the dry season. At the height of summer, temperatures can hit the 104°F (40°C) mark. This in mind, autumn is another great time to visit as the summer rains give the mountainous landscape a lush panorama of greenery. Think about visiting the Northwest part of Argentina on your next trip. With a pleasant climate year long and some incredible Andean landscapes, a red-rock valley, vibrant culture and high altitude wineries, now is the time to plan your visit to this best kept secret. Take advantage of our experience, creative ideas and wide range of contacts in Argentina to by allowing Frontiers to customize your travel to Argentina. n

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What’s New in South America From their northern shores to their southernmost tip, the twelve countries of South America span diverse climate zones with people, flora, and fauna that have adapted to environments of extreme variations. Among its many features are animals with no fear of humans in the Galápagos, the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca, in Peru, and Ushuaia, notorious for being the southernmost city in the world and a starting point for some really cool outdoor adventures.

ne in particular and a Frontiers favorite is an expedition cruise with Australis. This cruise navigates the waters of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, offering four-night routes between Ushuaia, Argentina, and Punta Arenas. The voyage travels along the waterways of the Straits of Magellan and the Beagle Channel, anchoring and going ashore at Cape Horn National Park, Pia Glacier, and Garibaldi Glacier, to name a few. The AUSTRALIS fleet consists of two expedition vessels with a maximum capacity of 210 passengers, the Stella and the Ventus, which launched in January of 2018. Both are purpose-built exploration ships with the maneuverability that allows navigation of even the tightest of channels. This benefit means you’ll be venturing into parts of Patagonia that no other ship can access. Onboard, the decor in each of the cabins is low-key, though stylish and comfortable, while spacious lounge areas and observation decks let the stunning landscape and views do the talking.

“Very few businesses thrive and last 50 years and so this is quite a generational milestone for Frontiers Travel. We at Lindblad Expeditions and myself personally are grateful for the valuable partnership we have had for many of those years.”

If an expedition cruise is not for you, not to worry, the vast areas of Patagonia can be explored on foot, on

Sven-Olof Lindblad Lindblad Expeditions

horseback, biking, or by vehicle. Naturally, explora comes to mind—they are pioneers within Patagonia, having built the first and only lodge situated within the Torres del Paine National Park. They continue their concept with sister properties, explora ATACAMA, EASTER ISLAND, AND THE ALL-NEW explora VALLE SAGRADO IN PERU featuring 50 rooms. (Continued on next page)

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Awasi Iguazú offers luxury villas, the first of their kind on the Argentine side of the falls

Sacred Valley highlights are located around the region, stretching from Cusco to Machu Picchu, offering some of the finest Incan treasures in Peru. It’s no surprise explora chose to build a beautiful lodge among corn plantations, fields of quinoa, and pristine mountain views—and oh, the spa! Pumacahua Bath House is a 16th-century colonial building, which explora restored to its glory. Be sure to leave time for relaxation—imagine swimming with history as ancient Incan walls surround you! Explorations will take you off the beaten path into small weaving villages that offer a strong cultural focus. For those seeking awesome views and more active hiking, explora guides will reveal secret parts of the Incan Trail that have been untraveled in over 100 years! A full day excursion to iconic Machu Picchu is usually planned on day three, so we recommend staying at least four or five nights—the longer the stay, the more possibilities for indepth explorations. What is unique about explora and their four properties is that all guides speak the local language, are trained in explora’s own school, and deliver the utmost quality that explora is known for. One price includes lodging, unlimited group excursions, meals, full beverages, and group transfers—the entire experience is seamless! Not to be outdone, and another favorite of Frontiers, are the AWASI properties. Following in footsteps similar to

explora, with a property in Patagonia and Atacama, they too have expanded to their collection with the newly opened AWASI IGUAZÚ in Argentina. When many people think of Iguazú, they think of the waterfall—but what about tribes, ruins, and toucans and tapirs? The latest AWASI lodge is reimagining how we visit South America’s most famous falls. They are the only allinclusive property of either kind in the area, which entices travelers to stay longer. Only a one-hour, 55-minute flight from Buenos Aires, Awasi Iguazú is located on the Argentinian side of the Iguazú Falls—so no visas are required! From the base of this 14-villa uber-lodge (15 minutes from the falls located on River Iguazú), explore the Atlantic Rainforest with your very own private guide and jeep. The AWASI properties are the only luxury lodges in South America where excursions are not in groups but with a private guide and 4 x 4 vehicle per room. If you are feeling adventurous, you can easily combine all three properties (South America’s Golden Triangle) for additional benefits. Another fan-favorite all-inclusive property of Frontiers is in Chile, and although this property is not a new property, per se, it is an addition to the andBeyond portfolio of award-winning properties they have established in Africa. The company intends to use the exclusive property as the cornerstone for a series of lodge circuits in South

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America, replicating their African model on another continent. The spirit of andBeyond Vira Vira is located in the heart of Araucanía in Chile’s Lake District, the homeland of the courageous Mapuche people. Once a war ground, this area stretching over 38 square miles (99 square kilometres) saw the Mapuche people resisting the advances of Incan and Spanish invaders. Immersed in a beautiful park with natural lagoons, flowing rivers, and sensational views of the Villarrica Volcano, the grounds boast a magnificent lodge and hacienda with beautifully appointed suites and villas. A modern working farm with an organic vegetable garden and state-of-the-art cheese factory complete the estate, which is set just outside of Pucón, Chile. Freshly grown produce is sourced from the farm and used to create award-winning Chilean-inspired menus. Guests can enjoy various activities hosted by knowledgeable and engaging guides, including trekking in the national parks, horseback riding in the cordilleras, scenic helicopter flights over the Villarrica Volcano, or skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, or snowmobiling in winter. The list is seemingly endless and also includes fly fishing, mountain biking, and a variety of water sports. All excursions are specifically tailored according to your interests and fitness levels.

Chef Damian picking fresh greens in the organic vegetable garden at andBeyond Vira Vira

What is amazing about South America is its various phenomena, and nowhere is this more prevalent than in the Galápagos, with the unique behavior of the wildlife that is fearless of humans. Pure in beauty and timeless allure, these volcanic islands have the kind of rugged, unaltered magnetism that’s increasingly scarce, and are home to endemic species found nowhere else in the world. The best way to experience the Galápagos Islands is a cruise. We recommend no less than seven nights due to the navigation distances between the islands; however, there are cruises of shorter duration, as well as vessels that range from 100 passengers to as few as 16. For planning purposes, overnights are required on mainland Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil) the night before the cruise begins. Frontiers has special access to the best boats in the Galápagos, ranging from small luxury yachts for charter to full-scale expedition vessels. One such company is LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS, which has two vessels in the Galápagos—the 48-passenger Islander and the 96-passenger Endeavour II. New for them is their shorter cruise of five nights for those travelers who may not have the time for a seven-night cruise. (Continued on next page)

Spacious accommodations at Awasi Iguazú

Scenic views surrounding one of andBeyond Vira Vira private villas in Chile’s Lake District

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Explore the Atlantic Tropical Rainforest at Awasi Iguazú

What is most unique about LINDBLAD is their partnership with National Geographic that inspires travelers to explore and care about the planet. As pioneers of global exploration, the two organizations work in tandem to produce innovative marine expedition programs and to promote conservation and sustainable tourism around the world. The partnership’s educationally oriented voyages allow guests to interact w

Giant Tortoise in the Galápagos

ith leading scientists, naturalists, photographers, and researchers while discovering stunning natural environments above and below the sea through state-ofthe-art exploration tools. Another option is ECOVENTURA, who own and operate a refined collection of upscale yachts, the MV Origin and MV Theory. The all-new 20-passenger intimate yachts offer the stylish amenities of a boutique hotel. After a full day exploring the untamed Galápagos Islands, guests can retreat to their luxury staterooms, which were designed to foster a sense of connectivity with the destination—or mingle with like-minded travelers and naturalists who fully engage the senses with personal enrichment. You cannot call South America just “one” place. It is a myriad of megacities where the old and new exist and blend elegantly, filled with natural beauty, ancient and colonial history, mystery, gastronomy, culture, and customs. Filled with adventures for every type of traveler, South America’s diverse offerings have something for everyone. If you are interested in learning more about all that South America has to offer and creating your dream trip, our South America department would be more than happy to make recommendations to best suit your travel interests and needs. n

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Napa Valley

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A Wonderful Getaway to the Wine Country Lynda McDonough

Imagine pedaling down a vineyard filled road, relaxing with a picnic lunch and a glass of vino, or even viewing the wine country from a bird’s-eye view in a hot air balloon—there are just so many ways to enjoy the lovely California wine country.

he sights and sounds of the wine country are varied—much like the different types of wine—with the sunlit yellow leaves, purple and crimson grapes paired with the colorful atmosphere, and scintillating scents permeating the air. The wine-tasting experience is first-rate and twofold in nature. First, you are able to explore the incredible wines that only this region can produce by some of the best winemakers in the world. Secondly, the breathtaking architecture is evident throughout, whether it is a sprawling ranch, historic home setting, or dramatic structure for creating wine; these provide an experience within themselves. The essence of Napa Valley is more than just the beauty of this wine-growing region; it is also the opportunity to gain a greater appreciation for the art, history, and human passion for wine making and consumption.

I began my experience at the beautiful Tusk Estate, based on its enviable location high in the hills, where you can see incredible views of Napa Valley below: perfectly lined vineyards and contrasting barnyards, villages, and estates dot the landscapes. While many of the wineries have their own unique look and savoir faire, when you enter Tusk Estate, it feels as if you have been invited to a lovely Venetian-style private home. Most extravagant was the state-of-the-art wine cave, complete with lilting music playing throughout, a hip bar and lounge area, and secluded rooms with prized wines, such as their 2012 Tusk Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an exclusive and private experience that Frontiers can arrange for you during your stay in Napa. My next experience brought me to a stunning ceiling full of rose petals, a beautiful red baby grand piano, and (Continued on next page)

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The entrance to the Michelin 3-star restaurant, the Restaurant at Meadowood

The Davis Estate Vineyard view of the Howell Mountain

baccarat crystal throughout as I walked into the Raymond Vineyards property. This was an exceptional dining experience, consisting of a fabulous porterhouse steak with freshly steamed vegetables, while sitting in their signature Red Velvet Room. Here we experienced some of their newest releases. They produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot. My favorite was their 2016 Chardonnay, which has a flavor of pear and lemon curd, with a cream texture and a toasty oak finish. Here you have an opportunity to tour the facility as well as taste the wines, and even blend your own wine complete with your private label. A rustic barn structure greeted us as we visited the Davis Estates; however, once the door opened, I was amazed to see a complete facility for wine making where you can experience a tour of the day-to-day operations and experience tastings. Heading to the upper deck, I enjoyed a lovely charcuterie plate with a glass of their interestingly named Chardonnay, Hungry Blonde. What further

enhanced this experience for me was the breathtaking panoramic view of Howell Mountain and Northern Napa with its sweeping hills and valleys.

Sophisticated Surroundings in Napa There are many options for a lovely stay in Napa; however, one that embodies comfort, casual sophistication, and incredible ambiance is the iconic Meadowood property in St. Helena. Situated on a 250-acre private estate and nestled in the woods of the famed town of St. Helena, Meadowood is a premier property that displays the best Napa has to offer in terms of an epicurean, experiential, and healthy enrichment in the most natural of settings. They offer 85 rooms and suites in total. Tradition abounds in Meadowood, with the offerings of a number of sports on their private facilities, among them golf and tennis. Especially engaging for me was a lesson with their croquet professional on their formal (British-style) croquet course, where traditional dress of all white or all cream is required. During my lesson, I noted a number of multigenerational families also enjoying the game together. Additionally, Meadowood has unique spa offerings rivaling those of any great resort, and the fitness and spa area is paired with the beautiful natural setting. They provide tailored ecofitness classes and health-related experiences. Our yoga class was held outdoors, and the fitness trek allows you to explore the grounds. Recent upgrades include three new pools and a new fitness center.

Entrance to the Wine Cave at the Tusk Estate

This property offers fabulous dining at their famed Michelin 3-star restaurant, called the Restaurant at Meadowood. This Michelin-star chef has also opened a casual dining room, the Charter Oak in downtown St. Helena. Their menu highlights dishes that only feature two ingredients at a time, and reflect the locally grown

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produce of Napa Valley. While they can certainly have their estate sommeliers curate wine excursions based on your personal interests, they also host on-site wine tastings right in the beautiful settings at Meadowood. The wine country is often called “weather proof,” as it truly is a place for all seasons. Of course, spring, summer, and fall are obvious delights, but winter offers less crowds and the same services, and exclusive restaurants are more available this time of year.

Activities Abound Above and beyond wine tasting, Napa offers a number of fun and unique activities that can fill your days and complete this vacation experience. There’s much opportunity to be fit when in Napa. My bike was a great way to explore the town of Yountville and the picturesque country backroads nearby. Through hotels and/or various wineries, tours can be arranged that allow you to hike or bike with a stop at either a local restaurant or a prepacked picnic or restaurant lunch with tastings of local wines included. Or you can embrace the hands-on harvest experience, where you really immerse yourself in the experience from the vineyard to the winery to the barrel room. There’s also plenty of opportunity if you’re more in the mood for relaxation. Only the sounds of nature were heard in my open-air treatment room at the Spa at Meadowood, where I experienced a lemongrass steam and an invigorating massage, followed by peaceful slumber in their outdoor relaxation room. A hot air balloon over the vineyards offers exceptional views and certainly completes the wine country experience. My excitement was evident as I arrived at the balloon launch area. My first thought when they were getting the balloon fired up was that I was allowing myself to take off in a wicker basket! Exhilaration overcame me quickly as the hot air balloon transcended the earth and we got the rare glimpse of the Valley from above. The amazing views and the relative ease with which you float across the sky in the hands of an experienced balloonist resulted in calm elation. Wine-related activities do ultimately reign supreme, with such fun as being a winemaker for a day, creating your own bottle of wine complete with your unique label, cooking classes, combination art and wine tours, picnics, and of course elegant dinners with renowned chefs. You will find many opportunities to enjoy food and wine pairings, which are second in availability only to the pure love of wine.

Lynda plays croquet at Meadowood

A visit to Napa offers all the elements of a vacation full of entertainment, active fun, and passionate pursuit of culinary and wine experiences. Keen, knowledge-infused discussions on the grapes and wine-making life while sipping your favorite blend are all part of a wonderful experience that is the wine country. Allow Frontiers to create a special vacation for you in these glorious sunspeckled hills and valleys. n

The Red Room private lounge at Raymond Vineyards

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You CAN Get There From Here! Joyce Larkin

uxury vacations have had a major resurgence in the past few years, and as a result more US travelers than ever are venturing beyond our borders in search of new and exotic locales. Airlines from around the world have responded to this new demand, and accessing emerging or previously hard to reach destinations has never been easier. With the introduction of these new non-stop air routes, you really CAN get there from here!

Europe

Africa and the Middle East

• Atlanta and Washington Dulles to Lisbon

• Chicago to Addis Ababa

• Austin and San Diego to Frankfurt

• Washington Dulles to Tel Aviv

• Boston to Edinburgh

• Dubai to Kilimanjaro

• Chicago to Budapest, Athens, Lisbon and Venice

• London Heathrow to Durban and Mahe, Seychelles

• Cleveland, St. Louis, and Kansas City to Reykjavik • Fort Myers to Munich, Dusseldorf, and Cologne • Miami to Warsaw • Las Vegas to Amsterdam • Los Angeles to Helsinki • Newark to Naples, Prague, Nice, and Rzeszow • New York JFK to Ponta Delgada, Azores • Pittsburgh, Charleston, SC and Nashville to London Heathrow

• New York JFK to Nairobi

Latin America • Boston to Sao Paulo • Ft. Lauderdale to Recife • Los Angeles to Buenos Aires • Miami to Salvador, Brazil • Barcelona to Santiago, Chile • London Gatwick to Buenos Aires • Lima to Calama, Chile • Cusco to Iquitos

Asia/South Pacific

• Philadelphia to Dubrovnik, Berlin, and Bologna

• Boston and Minneapolis to Seoul Incheon

• Seattle, San Diego, and Minneapolis to Dublin

• Chicago to Auckland

• London Heathrow to Ljubljana and Bastia • Frankfurt and Munich to Tivat

• San Francisco to Papeete, Tahiti, Melbourne, and New Delhi • Seattle to Singapore and Hong Kong • London Heathrow to Perth

Call the award-winning Frontiers Air Department for details!

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Lounging Around the World — Where to go to Escape the Gate Joyce Larkin

It’s almost time—your luggage is packed, your travel documents are stowed safely in your carry-on, and your email away message is happily informing family, friends, colleagues, and clients that, effective tomorrow, you are on your way to somewhere wonderful! All that’s left to do now is relax, get a good night’s sleep, and try not to dwell on the fact that tomorrow you are off to the airport. The mere thought of the three-hour layover that the Frontiers air department insisted you book at your international gateway is enough to make you wonder why you didn’t consider a “staycation” this year!

sk any traveler, whether frequent or occasional, to name the least favorite part of their journey and the overwhelming response will be “time spent in an airport.” Even the best airports are noisy, overcrowded, understaffed, and seem designed to induce additional stress at the end of every long line. But don’t despair—the premium-class tickets tucked in your travel wallet provide more than just shorter check-in queues, expedited security, and flat sleeper seats. They hold the key to those exclusive sanctuaries of airport peace and tranquility—the business or first class lounge. Originally conceived in 1939 by American Airlines as a private space for their most loyal customers to relax and enjoy a drink before their flight, airport lounges have evolved into amenity-rich havens that are as much of a determining factor in choosing a carrier as onboard premium seat products. Any decent international lounge today will offer buffets with a variety of food choices, fully stocked self-service bars, complimentary Wi-Fi, private restrooms with shower facilities, work spaces with computers, printers, and charging stations, entertainment areas with televisions, and quiet reading nooks stocked with newspapers and magazines from Create your own Champagne flight at the Emirates Lounge Dubai

around the globe. As airport lounges have become a significant selling point for premium customers, major airlines are more competitive than ever in providing unique and exciting amenities. Here’s a look at some of our favorites from around the world:

Wine and Dine Discover your favorite bubbly at the Moët & Chandon Champagne tasting bar at Emirates Concourse B Business Class Lounge Dubai. Carefully chosen canapés accompany a selection of the winery’s fine vintages. Indulge in chef-created Turkish delicacies at Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul. Selections include Turkish pastries, classic mezzes, “pide” (stuffed pizzas), and a wide array of olives at the Olive Bar, some sourced directly from 100-year-old trees growing right inside the lounge. Experience Chinese artisanal teas at the Teahouse in Cathay Pacific’s the Pier Hong Kong. Tea specialists are on staff to assist you in navigating an interactive tea menu that provides aromatic previews of the traditional and exotic tea blends and infusions on offer. Join those in the know at the Flagship Bridge, American Airlines’ secret JFK lounge inside the Terminal 8 Admirals Club. Travelers need to ask to be admitted, but once inside this lounge within a lounge, they enjoy table service with à la carte menu items inspired by New York City’s iconic neighborhoods. Be on the lookout for celebrities while enjoying views of the distant Hollywood Hills on the outdoor terrace of the Star Alliance Lounge LAX. Comfortable seating areas, gaslit fireplaces, and a stylish waterfall inscribed with quotes from Hollywood royalty provide an ideal setting for enjoying cocktails or a preflight meal.

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Dissolve your jetlag in the Lufthansa First Class lounge’s spa bath

Stay and Play Live out your race-car-driver fantasy in the Formula-One simulator or embrace your inner child on the pinball machines and foosball table in the Qatar Airways AlMourjan Business Class Lounge Doha. Get your geek on in the entertainment room at LATAM’s VIP Lounge Santiago. Play away your layover in futuristic gaming chairs while enjoying an assortment of electronics including Xperia tablets and PlayStation Vita handheld devices. Work on your swing in the golf simulator, relax with a bucket of popcorn at the cinema, or challenge your traveling companion to a game of snooker at Turkish Airlines Lounge Istanbul.

Grab a rubber duck and a glass of champagne and enjoy a restorative bubble bath in the jetted spa tubs found in select shower suites at the Lufthansa First Class Terminal Frankfurt or First Class Lounge Munich.

Test-drive the innovative Skylights Theater headsets that are providing visitors to the Emirates Business Class Lounge Dubai with an immersive cinematic experience. Once fully implemented, a variety of content will be available including 3-D and 2-D movies, box sets, documentaries, and 360-degree videos.

Warm up on a cold winter day with a visit to the authentic Finnish sauna at Finnair’s Premium Lounge Helsinki. As with all traditional saunas, the facility is shared by men and women and clothing is optional, although towels are provided for shy visitors.

Give the kids a break from Mom and Dad in the family room at the Etihad Premium Lounge Abu Dhabi. Qualified nannies watch over little travelers and keep them happily engaged with toys, books, games, TVs, and an exclusive children’s menu.

Ensure that you arrive looking your best by treating yourself to a complimentary spa or salon service at the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse Spas JFK and London Heathrow. Trim your bangs, tidy up your beard, treat your fingers and toes to a file and buff, or enjoy a relaxing minifacial or head massage. Keep your swimsuits handy to catch those last few Caribbean rays and take advantage of one of the world’s most unique plane-spotting opportunities with a dip in the VIP Lounge’s outdoor infinity pool overlooking the runways at Punta Cana Airport. Allow the Frontiers Air Team to help you navigate the myriad of lounge options to enhance your journey. n

Plane spotting poolside! The Admirals Club JFK’s best kept secret

Relax and Revive Combat jet lag in a special transit lounge created by Qantas at Perth Airport and designed especially for passengers on their ultra–long-haul flights to Europe. Light therapy suites feature fixtures with special white and blue wavelengths that promote wakefulness and increase alertness while a wellness studio allows passengers to stretch, meditate, and practice breathing exercises on their own or under the guidance of a yoga teacher from Bodhi J Wellness Spa Retreats.

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The quintessential Tuscan hamlet, Tavarnelle e Val di Pesa, home to Antinori’s Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico wines

Dario Cecchini, the legendary butcher, in Panzano in Chianti - where you go to get your red meat needs met!

The sumptuous gardens at Borgo Santo Pietro

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Town Square in San Quirico d’Orcia

Famous Brunello vines in Montalcino

Tuscany: A Photo Essay By Mollie Fitzgerald and Tarquin Millington-Drake

While Tuscany is undisputedly the heart of the Bel Paese and best known for its Renaissance cities of Florence and Siena, our favorite part is tootling around its country lanes and delving into its charming villages and stunning countryside. The verdant tapestry of undulating hillocks, endless vines and meadows is punctuated only by stands of cypress trees, weathered stately villas and fields of glorious red poppies. We thought we’d share a few highlights from our Spring 2018 visit. (Continued on next page)

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Tuscany A Photo Essay

Castello del Nero shot from an early morning balloon flight

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Congratulations to Frontiers on 50 successful years from all of us at Rocco Forte Hotels.â&#x20AC;? Sir Rocco Forte Chairman and CEO Rocco Forte Hotels

Gentle Giant Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

UNITED STATES OFFICE

A Travel Tradition Since 1969

600 Warrendale Rd., Gibsonia, PA 15044 Toll-free 1-800-245-1950 Phone 724-935-1577 Fax 724-935-5388 Email info@frontierstravel.com Website www.frontiersej.com

EUROPEAN OFFICE

Kennet Cottage, Kempsford Gloucestershire, GL7 4EQ, England Tel +44 (0) 1285 700 940 Fax +44 (0)1285 700 322 Email info@frontierstrvl.co.uk Website www.frontierstrvl.co.uk

The air holidays and flights in this brochure are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is ATOL 3315.

Photo Credits: Oskar Schindler Museum, Poland Tourism Board, Eleven Experience, Private Travel Iceland, Wilderness Safaris, Hotel Konsulat, Australia Tourism Board, andBeyond, Tarquin Millington-Drake, Barry and Cathy Beck, Abercrombie & Kent, Manafiafy Lodge, Madagascar Classic Collection, Wildflower, Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, Dan Avila, COMO Parrot Cay, UniWorld, AmaWaterways, Belmond Pivoine, Spirit of Scotland, Fleur De Lys, Panache, Grand Cru, European Waterways, The Retreat at The Blue Lagoon, Eleven Experience, Private Travel Iceland, Japan Tourism Board, Gora Kadan, Auschwitz-Poland Tourism Board, Oskar Schindler Museum, Awasi, explora, Lindblad Expeditions, Meadowood, American Airlines, British Airways, LATAM, Lufthansa Airlines, Korean Airlines, Finnair, Icelandair, Emirates, Air New Zealand, Singapore Airlines, Punta Cana International Airport, and Frontiers Staff.

ELEGANT JOURNEYS | PHOTO SAFARIS | FRESHWATER FISHING | SALTWATER FISHING | WING SHOOTING