FRV Magazine - Issue #2

Autumn Runway Report

The Best of Resort 2011 Issue #2

FRV Editor’s Letter Dear Reader, Since our debut issue went online late May this year, FRV has continued to grow. We have expanded considerably: firstly with a redesign of our website, and even more so with the content. Our first issue tackled fashion’s future, and this issue we’ve got everything you need to gear up for winter, with a rundown of this season’s trends, as well as a look at what featured as part of the resort collections, and a brief look at menswear too.

Geoffrey Chuah has kindly created our photo editorials - I have to admit, I was a little bit astonished at the sophistication on display in our feature editorial “Away With the Wind” when I received it in my inbox. We’ve expanded our culture section, and taken a peek at the Maison Martin Margiela exhibition currently showing in Somerset house, as well as the Wireless festival, which one of our writers attended. I tackle Tom Ford’s “A Single Man” - a remarkable debut into the world of film, and a jaw-dropping cinematic triumph for Tom Ford.

II would like to extend a thank you to everyone who’s worked tirelessly to help me piece this issue together. I decided from the beginning that I would aim to make each issue more grand then the next, and I feel as though it’s been achieved thanks to our talented contributors.

Here it is - our second issue.

Pamela Kingston Editor-In-Chief

FRV Contributors Editor-In-Chief: Pamela Kingston Contributing Writers: Jenna Birch Alexandra Murphy Isabella Stockwell Brianna Stevens Michelle McNickle Mikelle Street Hattie MacAndrews Photography editorials: Geoffrey Chuah Layout: Pamela Kingston Creative Consultant: Zakary Alexandr le Stele Special Thanks: Samantha Denise, Felicia Yong, Connie Giaquinto, Neelia, Mindy McTaggart, Sarah Chandler, Brittaney Johnston, Zoe S

FRV Contents

Plus...

• Fall Trend Report - all you need to know • The Best of Menswear Spring/Summer 2011 • Reality Runway - the models who are making waves with their curves • We talk to Simone Gonzalez of Pleasure Doing Business • Is Fashion Art? • A look at Tom Ford’s ‘A Single Man’ • Maison Martin Margiela’s ‘20’ exhibition • The low down on Wireless Festival

The Best of Resort 2011 Accessories

• Model of the Moment: Lily Donaldson

Best of Resort 2011: Prints, Patterns, Glamour

DIY: Christian Dior Haute Couture beauty

aWAY WITH THE WIND:

The Look: What to Wear This Season

Photographer focus: Helena Cristina Henriques

CLASSIC GLAMOUR WITH A TWIST

Trend Spotting: Camel Hits the Runways

The Wish List GIANMARCO LORENZI Suede platform sandals EUR 525.00

Burberry Prorsum

Cropped shearling aviator jacket

€2,395

GILES

Swarovski crystal necklace EUR 1999.00

SIX SCENTS - Collage Nº 6 Whiskey Caramélisé Fragrance B STORE -

b magazine Spring/Summer 2010 EUR 7.00

EUR 67

Autumn SHOPPING Guide

ACNE - ‘Amon Print’ shirt EUR 364,00

From cosy dressing gowns to sexy lingerie, here is a look at a selection of the most alluring underwear and sleep garments that will have you waiting for bedtime to tick around.

Phillip Lim’s luxurious underwear is featured throughout, as well as pieces by underwear designers Jean Yu and Carine Gilson - after all, nothing says sexy more then a pair of satin briefs or a transparent bra.

Carine Gilson Silk-satin and lace camisole â‚Ź620.78

DL&CO - White and gold candle EUR 86,00 Matters of Leisure Townhouse short cashmere robe €2,092.03

Carine Gilson Arabesque silk-satin briefs €285.56

Marni Polka dot silk-satin briefs €93.12

PAUL SMITH - White toothbrush EUR 10,00

Marni

FENDI

Silk-foulard shorts

Logo print wash bag

€260.73

EUR 130,00

Damaris

Tabitha Simmons

Swarovski-encrusted

Blossom polka-dot slingbacks

bra €180.03

€695.28

Damaris Swarovski-encrusted briefs €130

T by Alexander Wang Cropped racer-back bra top €80.70

3.1 Phillip Lim Cotton polka-dot babydoll nightdress €161.40

GUCCI - Emblem toiletry bag EUR 130,00

Juicy Couture Mini Blossoms cotton-jersey robe Erdem

€128

Globe Trotter Collaboration vanity case €484.21

Jean Yu Silk-chiffon maxi chemise Carine Gilson

€918.76

Gabrielle silk lace bra €279.35

Marc by Marc Jacobs - Nylon heart print wash bag EUR 113,00

Jean Yu Captive silk-satin bra €354

3.1 Phillip Lim Stretch-silk camisole €161.40

Jean Yu Captive silk-satin boy shorts €409.72

Stella McCartney Knickers of the week pack €154.56

Jimmy Choo Quito snakeskin shoe boots €850

New Season Picks:

The Best Neutral Shoes Shoes that go with everything: here is a look at the best neutral shoes for the Autumn/Winter season. From pale nude shades to deep black, this season’s selection offers everything from delicate tulle heels to chunky boots.

Burberry Buckled leather ankle boots €595

Elizabeth and James Snake-effect leather pumps €516.44

Fendi Tulle-embellished suede sandals €1,117.41

Giuseppe Zanotti Multi-strap leather sandals Michael Kors Gucci

Vacchetta leather sandals

Sock-detailed leather boots

€675

€874.91

€625

Christian Louboutin Volnay 140 python sandals €1,065

Christian Louboutin Décolleté 100 ostrich pumps €1,235

Alexander Wang Polina goat fur boots €996.42

Yves Saint Laurent Tribute suede sandals €695

Marni Leather clog slingbacks €461.75

Miu Miu

Alexander Wang

Patent-leather peep-toe pumps

Devon open-toed boots

€407.08

€546.82

The Look:

Autumn Dressing

This Autumn/Winter season, the selection is vast - the runways were awash with a mix of trends - from minimalist styles, to mouth-watering digital prints, alluring reds and retro 50’s chic. Here is some looks the FRV team have put together, inspired by what’s available this season.

OPENING CEREMONY Leather wedge hiker boots EUR 409.00

VICTIM Layered lace dress EUR 429.00

VICTIM Antique pearl and bead necklace EUR 224.00

ISABEL MARANT Family Stone brass cuff €286 THEORY Box pleat dress EUR 449.00

PIERRE HARDY High heel jeweled sandal EUR 940.00

BALENCIAGA Large ‘Work’ bag EUR 1075.00

RICK OWENS Black kangaroo leather jacket EUR 1959.00

ISSEY MIYAKE Watercolour print pleated skirt EUR 290.00

GARETH PUGH Clutch €480.00

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN Leopard print ankle boot EUR 695.00

moc croc tote EUR 559.00

HALLEH

18-karat gold shield ring

€1,902

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD Snakeskin peep toe sandals EUR 849.00

PETER PILOTTO Slide printed silk-crepe dress €1,148.32

MAX MARA

CHLOE Dress €1530

MIU MIU Patent-leather turn-lock clutch €620

ALEXANDER WANG Boots €810

ROBERTO CAVALLI Stone-embellished silver cuff €632

ETOILE ISABEL MARANT Zigzag crochet-knit slouched pants €145

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Pullover €595

ALEXANDER WANG X LINDA FARROW Sunglasses €240

JIMMY CHOO Trixie suede shearling ankle boots €899 VERSACE Chunky pendant necklace €334

RUNWAY REPORT

Trend Spotting: Shearling & Camel Fall Trends: What to Look out For Best of Resort 2011 Collections

Trend spotting

House of Holland

Reed Krakoff

3.1 Phillip Lim

Topshop Unique

Rag & Bone

Christopher Kane

Sophie Theallet

Nicholas K

Pringle of Scotland

Mulberry

Burberry Prorsum

Margaret Howell

SHEARING

Shearling took over this season - the cosy fabric was fashioned into jackets, gilets and coats on several major runways, most prominently seen at Burberry Prorsum in an aviator jacket style.

Trend spotting 3.1 Phillip Lim

Halston

Louis Vuitton Michael Kors

Chloe

Alexander Wang

Marc Jacobs Gucci

Chloe

Dries van Noten

Derek Lam

CAMEL

Luxurious shade of beige were ubiquitous on the catwalks this season - from tulle dresses to tailored jackets, camel was quite clearly one of the most evident colour trend of the season.

FALL TREND REPORT

What to watch out for, and what you can wear now.

Marc Jacobs

Michael Kors

Anxious anticipation always precedes Fall Fashion Week for style die-hards around the globe.

Everyone is waiting to see what’s next for the grandest season in the fashion calendar. And when it’s finally over, glamour girls are left to sift through the pieces from the catwalk with total awe, hoping to pull plenty of inspiration to update their own personal wardrobes.

This season, as with most, the designers did not disappoint. There was just so much to love. All that’s left is to find the trends that suit you best, in order to put together the best runway pieces for fresh looks, and practice patience as autumnal weather starts to roll in, of course.

If you absolutely cannot wait to wear straightoff-the-runway looks, there are even some trends you can start to incorporate right now.

The buzzword floating around the shows was minimalism; the idea reigned. Designers were back to basics for the fall season, showing camel coats, tailored suits, shades of gray, and black that was anything but boring. For this season, style was chic simplicity.

It was modern minimalism, and gray was a key color in many of the collections. Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Bagdley Mischka all sent their models out in the somber shade. McCartney kept it clean in a sleek charcoal coat, while Marc Jacobs had his models in the hue from head to toe, literally, right down to the crew-length socks. For a look of pure ease, emulate Michael Kors’ take on the trend; an oversize cowl-neck sweater paired with a wool cap and over-the-knee socks. Gray is one of the trends that can be worn right now. Carolina Herrera’s power suit is another way to encorporate the trend, breaking up the silvery shade with a thick red belt. Or add in a light-weight sweater or mini dress in the neutral colour to keep up-to-date while transitioning into fall pieces.

Prada

Black was back again this season, and looking as fantastic as ever, but it wasn’t about LBDs this time around. Although black is fashion at its most basic, the looks seemed fresh and sharp. Coats were the highlight, from a dramatic cape at Yves Saint Laurent, to a structured jacket with a bow-tie neck at Miu Miu. Strong-shouldered blazers with an undone vibe were also a favorite, as seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Christopher Kane, and Versace (who paired the blazer with tough leather leggings for some major edge).

It doesn’t take a lot of effort to incorporate this trend into your wardrobe, but remember to keep it current.

Play with volume using strong shoulders and oversize shapes, as well as tailored pieces; the perfect pair of wide-leg trousers or a sharp jacket are smart choices that will lend an immediate mod-factor. Start adding black blazers into the mix now, along with fierce pumps and sophisticated carryalls in dark hues. That way, you’ll be ahead of the curve for the cool weather conversion.

The coming season also had a host of great looks for a lazy day. Knits in soft colors and bold patterns made for awesome weekend favorites. Rag & Bone models rocked fun sweaters in a multitude of styles, from cropped to oversize vests. At Prada, cable-knit looked fresh belted with a skirt and over-the-knee stockings.

The relaxed feel extended into another major trend of the season as well; mixed prints and patterns.

Dries Van Noten blended colorful graphic art with a leopard scarf, and even added an animal print coat with a tropics-style skirt. Proenza Schouler offered a skinny paint-spattered pant paired with a pictorial print sweater. Christian Dior sent out a more subdued take on the look, matching a plaid jacket with a checked skirt in the same maroon hue. Incorporate the look into your day-to-day style and don’t think about it too much, this look is all about being unfussy. Pair prints with at least one similar shade if you aren’t sure, or for instant style cred, throw on bold graphics with an animal-print piece.

A dyed dress or floral frock with a leopard print bag is an always-chic take on the look, and don’t shy away from color. The key to this look is to completely own it.

Jason Wu

Versace

Dries van Noten

FALL TREND REPORT

Embellished extras were also on-trend this season.

Sparkling frocks, metallics rich mosaics, fringe and feathers were great ways to spice up a look, while never feeling overdone. Emilio Pucci’s printed gown with a touch of feathers, Jason Wu’s metallic mini and a sequined jacket at Diane von Furstenberg were all perfectly-crafted hits. A dash of sparkle on a dress, a feathered accessory or even a fringed bag goes a long way for a sophisticated flair.

The power suit was also big for autumn, and every working woman will want to look this good on the job.

Bottega Veneta, Givenchy and Diane von Furstenberg all sent out fabulous suits to be taken seriously. Trousers were versatile, from wide-leg looks to cropped pants; almost every style was featured on some run-

Michael Kors

Finally, outerwear was ever-important and prominent in the fall shows, and every trend was endlessly smart. A major feature in outerwear this season was fur. It was everywhere on the catwalks; from a belted white jacket at Fendi to sophisticated overcoats at Lanvin and Chanel, to more easy-going toppers at Michael Kors and Isabel Marant.

Camel coats seemed to parade down the catwalk at every show, in a multitude of silhouettes and styles. It will be the outerwear essential for the coming season. A chic, oversized belted version at MaxMara, Tommy Hilfiger’s modern update of the classic trench, and a long leather coat with a fur collar from Prada provided a multitude of options. Camel is endlessly stylish, so pick your poison for a knockout look.

For the chilliest days, a heavier coat, like the MaxMara version or the cape-style shown at Alexander Wang will keep you feeling warm without having to compromise your fashionable sensibilities. When in need of just a light coverup, reach for a trench or camel-colored blazer, taking cues from Dries Van Noten.

Fall fashion week is a frenzy, and fitting all the pieces together for the season can be just as chaotic. Sharp sartorialists everywhere will want to embrace the cold-weather runway styles because with effortless outfits, coming-undone looks and modern minimalistic tendencies, cutting edge just got uncomplicated. What’s not to love?

Story by: Jenna Birch

Dries van Noten

For a piece that is truly super-luxe, look no further than the fur coats from this season. They were definite showstoppers.

Alexander Wang

way. Bold-shouldered jackets are here to stay, just make sure the tailoring is streamlined for an impeccable ensemble.

FALL TREND REPORT

The Best of Resort 2011

Erdem

Chloe

ACNE

Lanvin

Diane von Furstenberg

Yves Saint Laurent

Proenza Schouler

Prada

Full on print, bold colours and tropical inspired accessories made the collections of Resort 2011 sophisticated, edgy and most importantly, not just for your summer getaway.

Balenciaga

Celine

Alexander Wang

Balenciaga

Rag & Bone

Miu Miu

Versace

Christian Dior

Louis Vuitton

Christian Dior

The Best of Resort 2011: The Accessories Resort 2011 brought with it some killer accessories - pastel bags, sculptural heels and printed sandals set the tone for the exotic themed Resort collections.

Viktor & Rolf Viktor & Rolf Lanvin

Yves Saint Laurent Balenciaga

Yve s

Sain

t La uren t Balenciaga

Viktor & Rolf

Balenciaga Yves Saint Laurent

Balenciaga

Yves Saint Laurent

in

nv

La

Chloe

Christian Dior Balenciaga

Alexander

McQueen

Balenciaga

Yves Saint Laurent

The Best of Menswear: Spring/Summer 2011

Alexander McQueen

To the layman, the first viewing of the Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 collection could be disappointing. Seemingly void of the drama, and artistry that had become synonymous with the label, these very relaxed and surprisingly wearable pieces could lead one to believe that the show had been mistitled, “Pomp and Circumstance” and misled, by recently appointed creative director, Sarah Burton. A second more careful look, and even a third, brings a reconsideration though. The memory remains that Lee not only was an artist, but was exquisite at garment construction. We find that the line give ode to not the latest collections, but older ones, and to the technician that Lee actually was. Fit ranged from skin-tight to slouchy, and the color palette was just as diverse. We come to find that the ‘Pomp and Circumstance’, while maybe evident in Look 9, is certainly still infused in pieces like the look that Dan Felton wore(featured).

Dsquared²

Describing DSquared2 as a brand in one word is simple; slick. This collection, along with the American Gigolo that inspired it was no different. His shirt open to reveal a burly chest(unlike those of the models of other shows who at times seem prepubescent), and his jeans fitted and tight to reveal.... muscled thighs, the DSquared2 man is slick in every since of the word. A wardrobe full of color for every occasion, including a collection of speedos for maximum tanning purposes of course, the DSquared2 line oozes money and sex. It seems that sexy really is back.

Jil Sander

While many of the runways were monochromatic and looked like a parade in black and white, Jil Sander decided that for this season, we needed to step into technicolor. And what better way to step into this color than with short shorts covered by trench coats, the color of which reminded me of Blair’s old Constance circle?

Florals even made an appearance on the seemingly waxed models. With a few belted jackets and looks in navy blue, one of the demure colors shown, the collection as a whole seems to be fit for a young artsy professional.

THE BEST OF MENSWEAR S/S

Balmain Anchored by an imposing and rebellious combat boot, the Balmain Spring 2011 collection was a mix of grit and grime. Laying a dark/grunge-like motif over a military inspired structure, the line comes off sharp yet still cool in a young rebel with a motorcycle type of way. Accessorizing the skin-tight jeans and t-shirts with a variety of scarves, chains, and a plethora of jackets, the line sticks to blacks, greys, and whites for the color palette.

Story by: Mikelle Street

Raf Simons To watch the Raf Simons show was to watch a live experimentation of the possible boundaries of menswear. The experiment focused mainly on bottoms, blowing them to elephant trunk size before reducing them to sizes that would exaggerate the twigs that the models used as legs. A small sampling of skirts were introduced as well. Colors were sparse but those that did make appearances were rich and deep. The experiment ended with a sharply tailored suit, having explored the many options of the male silhouette.

Comme des Garçons

Maybe it was the skulls that were painted on the back of the models’ heads, or maybe the ones etched into the toes of the shoes. It’s not clear which skull exactly pushed the show from being grunge, to goth and then finally to apocalyptic but the collection certainly reached that level. To pair with the skulls, we are provided with drop crotches and matronly fit dresses for men. Even the blazers were outfitted with skulls and a few were even red, eliciting the image of blood. When considering the shows for wearability, one really wouldn’t really consider CdG but for staying true to the story line... well it seems we’ve found first place.

FRV Magazine is Looking for contributors. We aim to show off the best new talent, which means everything from models, designers, artists, reporters, writers and photographers.

If you’d like to get involved, or submit some work to the magazine, simply get in touch with us at frontrowview@live.ie.

HELENA CRISTINA HENRIQUES

FRV talks to visionary photographer Helena Cristina Henriques, whose edgy photography grabs you by the throat and won’t let go.

Helena Cristina Henriques is a Portuguese Fashion Photographer, and an advocate of the belief that ‘Photography is an adventure, a dynamic affair with creativity’. Having travelled a lot as a child, and being raised in Mozambique, Botswana, South Africa and Portugal, Henriques decided that travelling ‘easily becomes a superficial lifestyle where superficial conversations make her feel empty’.

It’s her search for a feeling of belonging, and her emptiness upon reaching it that makes Henriques the profound photographer she has come to be. ‘I live slowly, I strive to live and feel everything anew’.

From an early age, Henriques struggled with feelings of awkwardness and vulnerability. She found that writing rendered her as a being who was too open, too fragile.

The risk discovered in creative writing was that ‘it is the secret life of my mind where I am most creative and free. There’s something too personal about it that I can’t quite find a safe distance between the work and myself and the strength to share it.’ Hence the progression to photography, which funnily enough, she finds ‘super easy’.

As with many photographers of this day and age, Henriques photographs to ‘share experiences with others, to be visually inspired, and to plug real life and transform it into an artistic expression.’

One of the most honorable qualities about Henriques, is her insightful honesty – ‘Technology bores me’. How many of us can really relate to a photographer who bores whoever’s listening about details of their lens, who painfully deliberates over lighting colours.

That’s not what its all about, is it? Gone are the days when one would pick up kodak instamatic and capture an instant. Today, these ‘instants’ are replayed over and over again, constantly being touched up by stylists, makeup artists and assistants, so that the photographer can choose between hundreds of shots of

HELENA CRISTINA HENRIQUES

what is in essence, the same image. Forgive my ignorance if you disagree, it doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate and respect their work, ‘Cameras are just equipment. Many photographers talk about equipment for hours but they are unfit to talk about a photograph.’

A firm believer in the notion that ‘extraordinary photographers appear to have been born with this ability’, Henriques hopes to join in their ranks of brilliance one day.

Who are these extraordinary photographers Henriques talks so highly of - Richard Avedon, David LaChapelle, Helmut Newton, Austin Young, Alan Gastelum, Conrad Ventur, Alvaro Villarubia, Jason Nocito, Steven Klein, Bettina Rheims, and Nick Knight – ‘They are geniuses’ – care to disagree?

Questioning Henriques on who she would most like to photograph, I expected the standard answer of Kate Moss, or Georgia Jagger. However, I was delighted to receive the following: ‘I would love to take a beautiful portrait of each animal that goes to slaughter to feed the non-vegetarian population. Take many beautiful portraits of their lives seen through their eyes and expressions before it’s taken away from them.

We could even dress them fashionably and make it all look like a parody, a lie, a sort of hidden reality few want to see face to face.’ This is exactly the kind of wake-up to reality that the fur-wearing, leather-donning fashionistas need.

The result of such a shoot has the potential to be so empowering, a genuine eye-opener for those who turn a blind eye to the brutality of a bacon sandwich.

Unfortunately, Henriques ‘has no strength to follow through this project. It’s a shame.’ I for one would be intrigued (as a vegetarian myself) to see these images.

HELENA CRISTINA HENRIQUES

Many photographers of this generation express details of intimacy in photography, and the powerful relationships that they believe the camera has the ability to develop, but not Henriques, ‘I think this idea is absolutely bullshit’.

Perhaps she’s right. The world of technology has progressed so far, on such a level that people seem to think it’s inconceivable for humans to survive without it.

To Henriques, there’s no such intimacy, ‘photography is imagination at work. It’s creativity blooming beautifully. It’s the tick of a clock, drawing us into another dimension, everything is so completely devoted to an idea and developing that idea.’

Not just a wonder-worker behind the lense, Helena Cristina Henriques has the ability to make you think. She’s a though provoker, and that’s certainly a quality not to be overlooked.

Contact Helena Cristina Henriques at: http://www.zeroexit.net

Story: Hattie MacAndrews

AWAY WITH THE WIND

Neelia wears: Black bodycon dress by Provocator, Dolce & Gabbana heels, stylist’s own leg warmers, and motif rings by Equip

T by Bettina Liano polka-dot top, sheer tights by American Apparel, Equip ring and cuff

sleeveless dress by Drama, Sergio Rossi heels, stylist’s own tights

dress by Provocator, D & G heels, leg warmers (as before)

singlet by Kookai, Provocator jeans, Mini Park studded jacket

corset by Matt Bylett

Matt Bylett corset, Jockey white tights, Sergio Rossi heels

sheer top by French Kitty, Sergio Rossi heels, tights: stylist’s own

Photography: Geoffrey Chuah@www.gcphotography.net Stylist: Samantha Denise@www.samanthadenise.com Make-up and Hair: Felicia Yong@www.feliciayong.com Make-up and Hair Assistant: Connie Giaquinto Model: Neelia@chadwicks

Brianna Stevens talks to the mastermind behind upcoming label ‘Pleasure Doing Business’, Simone Gonzalez.

Your pieces are so simplistic, yet have “stand out” patterns, what inspires the stripes?

I fell in love with stripes because they worked so well with the bands. They add a playful element to any outfit. I try to add a sense of humor into my clothes.

What inspired you to design clothes?

I found that I was always looking for something that I could never find. Anytime I was in a store I would look at things and always want to change them. So I spent most of my time sketching what I thought would look good on me.

Pleasure Doing Business

“I knew at that point that nothing was going to stop me from being a designer.”

What made you switch from an English major to a designer?

I always wanted to be a designer since I was 6 years old. I had my heart set on going to fashion school, which is what I thought was the natural step to all of my dreams coming true. When I was applying for colleges my parents brought up a good point, which was that once I entered the fashion industry, that would be my life and I would never be able to go back and have a regular college experience. I knew at that point that nothing was going to stop me from being a designer and that it was a smart idea to indulge myself in a more well rounded education as an English major, which I could later draw inspiration from. So instead of attending a fashion college, I spent 4 wonderful years at UC Santa Barbara.

How would you describe your style?

I feel that my style is a edgy casual chic, which is a reflection of my current personality. In my company I wear so many hats, which include the creative and the business woman. While I would love for people to imagine me as this eclectic fashionista, I must always be practical, as I am hands on and deal with everything from production runs to sales meetings.

Which fashion icon inspires you?

Kalman Ruttenstein, buyer for Bloomingdales. He gave me my first internship and really took me under his wing as a college student and showed me all of the facets of the fashion industry. His success is an inspiration to me.

Which designer do you admire the most?

Zac Posen What is your advice for those getting into the field?

Get as much experience in as many different areas of the industry as you can no matter if you know where you want to go. You can’t run a business successfully if you don’t know what it is supposed to look like.

Story: Brianna Stevens

Pleasure Doing Business

Pleasure Doing Business is available at Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus and Urban Outfitters.

THE SMART SUIT Slip into new season tailoring in shades of beige, sequins and most importantly, the new structures that are keeping it all together - slouchy fits mixed with strong shoulders, chunky jewels and slick hair.

GARY YANG stone silk jumpsuit CALVIN KLEIN Metallic silk jacket MILLICENT DARLING Pearly Gates necklace ZU blk “Warrior” platform heels

MILLICENT DARLING pants, mesh cami GEORGE GROSS Gold sequinned jacket ZU blk ‘Warrior” platform heels WORLD gold “world” necklace

GINA KIM oyster playsuit MILLICENT DARLING Pearly Gates bracelet VERALI

MILLICENT DARLING grey silk draped blouse KHRYSALIS grey linen bolero jacket and skirt.

DIOR vintage gold and silver chain necklace ZU Blk “Rebel” platform heels Gold bangle stylist’s own

WORLD stone Climb E’vyr Blazer and pants.

MILLICENT DARLING blk sequin razor back cami

Photography: Geoffrey Chuah www.gcphotography.net Stylist: Mindy McTaggart www.mindymctaggart.com Make-up: Connie Giaquinto Hair: Sarah Chandler@The Creative Group using KMS products Model: Brittaney Johnston from Vivien’s models

Model of The Moment: Lily Donaldson British model Lily is captivating the fashion world with her fresh-faced beauty.

Lily Donaldson’s ethereal looks and playful charm has launched this 23 year-old to the highest ranks of the model elite within the industry today.

With numerous editorials, contracts with the most notable designers, and enough shows to rival legends within the modeling field, Donaldson has proven to be a timeless success, whose unique looks and effervescent spunk allowed the fashion world to fall in love with this British beauty.

Born in London, England in 1988, Donaldson was discovered at the age of 16

by Select Modeling Agency while shopping in Camden Town. She soon went on to become the face of Miss Sixty in 2004, and later, was photographed by Mario Testino for a Burberry campaign, alongside Stella Tennant and Karen Elson. Donaldson also debuted in her first show in 2004, walking for the fall Jil Sander and Rochas shows in Milan and Paris.

also managed to walk for Anne Valerie Hash, Chanel, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix and Versace, all before the age of 18.

2007 allowed for Donaldson to maximize upon her successes. She became the new face of Christian Dior, and within the year, had renewed contracts with Burberry, replacing Kate Moss, as well as becoming the face of MaxMara, replacing Raquel Zimmerman. As Donaldson’s presence was 2005 was a prosperous year for Donalmost everywhere you turned, the industry took notice, as aldson, as numerous contracts and she was featured that same year in British Vogue’s “Head covers launched this fresh face to Girls: Models to Watch,” as well as an editorial in W magaincredible success. Among the highlights throughout 2006 were the covers zine, photographed by David Sims. of multiple Vogue magazines around Vogue covers, numerous editorial spreads, and a plethora of the world, as well as shoots for Dolce opening and closing shows were also added to Donaldson’s & Gabbana and Mulberry. Donaldson

MODEL OF THE MOMENT: LILY DONALDSON

resume, as the now highly notable model continued to make waves in 2008. Highlights of the year also included Donaldson becoming the new face of Gucci, as well as opening the spring Derek Lam, MaxMara, Gareth Pugh, John Galliano and Lanvin shows in New York, Milan, and Paris. Donaldson also closed the spring Alexander Wang, Tommy Hilfiger, Julien Macdonald, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Pucci, Versace, and Gareth Pugh shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, while rounding out the year with a memorable Gap ad with brother, Jesse.

2009 up until present day has Donaldson once again seeing multiple Vogue covers, ad editorial spreads, all while working with a myriad of photographers and fellow models. Chanel, Givenchy, Valentino, Lanvin, and John Galliano were all notable designers that Donaldson continued to work with throughout 2009, as her first 2010 editorial was seen in Italian Vogue.

Within six years, Donaldson’s exquisite looks and high notoriety throughout the fashion industry has amounted to incredible success. Despite all that she has done so far, the future for Donaldson inevitably holds more to come, allowing for this down-to-earth beauty to grace the pages and runways of the fashion elite for years to come.

Story: Michelle McNickle

Reality Runway: The Fuller-figured models who’ve given fashion a wake up call.

For years, models in the fashion industry have been notoriously thin. Catwalks were flooded with tiny figures, magazines were filled with waif-like girls and full-figured models were turned away at the door of castings.

“What they say is ‘curvy,’ but you know they mean fat,” Lara Stone told Vogue. In her early days as a model, she faced her fair share of rejection. Model Coco Rocha even declared herself to be “unbookable” at a size 4 (US).

Designers often staved off comments about their use of ultra-slim women, saying that the clothes simply fit better on a size 0. That was just fashion.

Then, slowly but surely, a revolution began.

Stone, considered curvy at a size 4, showed up on the scene and started walking in some of the most exclusive shows, from Marc Jacobs to Prada, Chanel to Balmain. She is now set to be the new face of Calvin Klein, advertising their jeans line, ck Calvin Klein and the main label.

Next, Doutzen Kroes’ star began to rise. She started appearing on magazine covers like Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue and Elle. She walked for Prada during fashion week in February, where the house was praised for using curvier models like Kroes, who fills out a size 6.

Crystal Renn was a former size 4 model who suffered from an eating disorder after her struggle to maintain an acceptable weight to be suitable for high fashion. She worked on getting healthy, and a couple years later she came back to the industry.

At a size 12, her career took off. She landed the covers of Bazaar and Glamour, and even walked the runway for Vena Cava and Jean-Paul Gaultier, among others.

Then Glamour magazine caused a stir when plussize model Lizzi Miller, size 12 and dressed only in her underwear, appeared in a small photo in their September issue. It was a huge hit as mail

Lara Stone Crystal Renn

“What they say is ‘curvy,’ but you know they mean fat.” - Lara Stone

poured into the magazine’s headquarters proclaiming the picture to be “amazing” and “beautiful.”

Designers like Mark Fast began using models with a variety of shapes in his runway shows, V Magazine launched their brand new shape issue featuring women of all different sizes and Renn was walking the runway for Chanel for their Resort 2011 show.

So what happened? It’s anyone’s guess, but leaders in the industry are predicting the future of fashion, and it involves more curves.

A Plus-sized model at Mark Fast

“Lara makes clothes look good,” Vogue’s fashion market editor Virginia Smith said of Stone in the magazine’s January 2010 issue. “It’s refreshing to see her come down the runway. Sometimes I’ll call in a piece, it will arrive, and I’ll think, Why did I think I liked that? Then I’ll remember, Oh, because Lara wore it.”

Perhaps the success of fuller figured models is because editors and designers are realizing that many women like what they can relate to, which in turn translates to sales.

Doutzen Kroes

“Compared with all the other girls, I have big thighs,” said Kroes in an interview. “But I am very happy with my body, and if they [people in the industry] don’t like me, too bad. I represent the woman.”

A shift is happening, and an industry that has been a staunch advocate of the stick-thin in years past is opening up to embrace shape. Whether a supporter or an opponent of this new trend, the face of fashion is changing to include the fuller-figure. And with so many of these women heading to super-model status, the industry’s elite are deciding to get ahead of the curve.

Story: Jenna Birtch

DESIGNER ON THE RISE

Naoya Nakayama.

When nationwide recession hits, we find ourselves wearing our statement pieces to within a thread of their lives. Gone are the times were we would splash out on a few new outfits on a weekly basis; we had to save our pennies for a desperate occasion – our heels snapping or our dress shrinking in the wash were an exceptional few. Or that’s what we liked to tell ourselves anyway. This can be tiresome, uninspiring, and even make us momentarily loath our over-worn favourite designer shoes.

But alas, it’s time to get the emergency fund out and take our wardrobes out of depression by reinvesting in a new designer. And this year the up-and-coming codesigner isn’t hard to find, as the infamous London College of Fashion has held its graduate end of year show, revealing the stunning designs of Naoya Nakayama.

Hailing from Japan, Nakayama has graduated with a degree in design technology, specialising in womenswear, which is evident through the fine construction of the designs, which have all been inspired by 3D image artwork.

Nakayama, who has had work experience with Erdem, Giles Deacon, Jonathon Saunders and the ASOS design team, wishes to bring his pieces alive through a collision of binary opposites; traditional and contemporary, and beige and gold.

He has used ‘space’ blanket material to create out-of-this world designs, including my personal favourite- a dress that is on one side short and layered, and the other a floor-length trench. He combines a fusion of the traditional with silk and jersey fabric, but the razor-sharp trim allow for the outfit to change in appearance depending on the perspective, meaning you will never look the same again in the same outfit. Perfect.

We are expected to see more of Nakayama as he embarks on his fashion career, which will hopefully include giving us yet another excuse to buy ‘just one more’ outfit.

Story: Isabella Stockwell

Photography: Geoffrey Chuah www.gcphotography.net Stylist: Mindy McTaggart www.mindymctaggart.com Make-up: Connie Giaquinto Hair: Sarah Chandler@The Creative Group using KMS products Models: Zoe S from Vivien’s models

Millicent darling - yellow linen Toga dress Kylie Hawkes - yellow ‘Glide’ cape Veronique Branquinho - tan clog mules Millicent Darling - plastic hairpiece Gold coin bangle, models own.

Harry Who - red pleat knitted dress Tour De force -graded pink toned silk headpiece Sportsgirl - blk clog boots

Harry Who -French blue strapless sequinned dress Missy millner - blk and white fascinator Sportsgirl - black clog boots

World - Climb E’vry dress Sportsgirl - black clog boots

culture

Maison Martin Margiela’s ‘20’ exhibition showcases the design house’s fashion truimphs. Isabella Stockwell heads to Somerset House to discover more.

An exhibition of one of the most elusive men in fashion is likely to excite the inquisitive nature in all of us, but before you get your coat and start running to the Martin Margiela exhibition, the secretive designer (who is yet to be photographed to this day in order to place emphasis on the brand, not the man) still maintains his anonymous character in this 20-year anniversary celebration of the design house.

There may not be photographs of the designer or insights into his personal life, but that doesn’t mean this exhibition is one to miss. With conceptual installations, videos and photography just to kick-start the interactive world of Margiela, you enter a weird and wonderful journey of the Margiela house through the ages; a cultural investment you won’t forget in a hurry.

After all, not every day in the English summer is perfect for sunbathing, so why not spend it standing next to giant polystyrene models and up-scaled outfits for Barbie, Ken and GI Joe in his A/W1994 collection?

The now-retired Belgian designer began his career after graduating in 1980 from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where he was part of the infamous Antwerp Six, along with Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester- a group of designers who changed the face of fashion, using a deconstructivist approach to design as a direct response to the idea of high and luxurious fashion in the late eighties.

The Exhibition:20 Maison Martin Margiela Working as the design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier, he began his innovative namesake brand in 1989, which would go on to inspire the work of design greats like Marc Jacob and Hedi Slimane (the former Dior Homme designer.)

Margiela not only changed the way in which outfits were made (such as hems and linings on the outside of garments which revealed the construction of the pieces), but the shape of fashion, through unconventional recycled fabrics like blonde wigs, paint on clothes, oversized proportions of the arms and shoulders, men’s suits for women, and of course, trompe l’oeil, which is just one of many notable Margiela design features.

The brands design ethos is scattered throughout the exhibition; trompe l’oeil is seen on the walls where images are pasted and screen printed onto curtains, there are no front row seats to reveal his preference for community over privilege and white rooms which emulate the whitewashed shops. Even the employees of Maison Martin Margiela wear the traditional couture atelier uniform of white suits, fronting the collective unity of the brand, which is now owned by the Diesel trademark.

The Margiela statement pieces are in full-force at the exhibition too, with the signature Tabi boots and white tag with the iconic four stitches, as well as the famous incognito sunglasses, designed to hide the wearer from media attention (I struggle with this very problem on a daily basis). This is probably why he has such notable A-listers as fan as French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld.

The Margiela exhibition is the perfect place for the fashionista who wants to go beyond the aesthetics of the brand, and with the design house still going strong even after Margiela’s departure, it’s a great place to unwind after a busy day of non-stop shopping. With its central London location of Somerset House open until the 5th September, there’s no excuse for fashion lovers not to go.

Story: Isabella Stockwell

HOT SPOT: Wireless Festival With a little dress and gold gladiator sandals, it had reached the time of year where attending a festival was crucial to gain your place in the ‘I’ve been cool this summer’ charts (and thus, been on holiday, got a tan and had a BBQ, opposed to sitting inside, avoiding the rays while watching Jeremy Kyle rip into drug-addicted dads).

ture, Wireless offered Jay Z as the headline act and Lily Allen, who was performing her ‘last London festival for a very long time’; who could say no to watching that? With the sun blazing and hit-churning line-up, it was a great way to spend the day and go for a splash of style-spotting and music-marking.

Unlike the Glasto-goers and V fest veterans, Wireless was the festival of choice for lipstick-festival-goers. After all, who would choose sleeping in a wee-ridden tent over going home to a nice, refreshing shower after a day of music? Ok, many of us would, but not the type of girl who is prone to forgetting essentialities as imperative as baby wipes and spare toilet roll.

Mr Hudson, dressed in head-to-toe blue and ankle-swingers, with crutches at the ready, hopped across the stage, declaring it was his state of being ‘drugged up to the eyeballs on medication’ that gave him the strength to carry out the bizarre unaided bopping.

As well as appealing to a dirt-avoiding na-

The song before the hit ‘Supernova’ proved too much excitement for the fans, or maybe it was the diagonal jumps across the stage, as they all threw hundreds of bottles in the

HOT SPOT: WIRELESS FESTIVAL

air for the duration of over two songs, leaving girls with drenched hair and teary eyes throughout the bottle-clubbing crowd.

Sensing the madness of the festival-goers, Mr Hudson declared ‘you’re crazy but I love you’, but Lily Allen took a different approach to the hair-frizzing antics. Having seen many a girl combust into floods of tears at the bang of a head, she asked the crowd on numerous occasions to stop, before dedicating her song ‘F*** You’ to the offenders.

Wearing a white jumpsuit, Lily was ontrend, although by this point, the realisation that strappy sandals should be avoided came into place as everyone’s feet were dustier than a desert sandstorm. To future festivalsgoers; wearing boots is an intelligent way to keep manicured toes clean, while cinching the ‘girly-yet-wild’ trend to a tee by teaming boots with a flowy dress. Sandals, on the other hand, lead to washing your toes in Port-a-loos with sterigel.

Festival Trends 1.Straw Hats Barely man nor woman was seen without the woven hats, protecting their eyes from the sun while adding a touch of nature to a trendy outfit.

2. Cropped Tops Midriffs took over as girls topped-up their tans by wearing cropped tops teamed with hot pants.

Chpimunk had many-a-girl swooning while Tinie Tempa couldn’t fit his fans in the tent, leading to crunched toe-nails and barging strong enough to challenge fashionistas at a 75% off designer handbag sale.

Jay Z concluded the night, getting the crowd to wave their diamonds in the air for his rendition of ‘Diamonds are Forever’ (the shape of their hands, not the Swarovski’s) and even at one point shirts to the upbeat ‘Big Pimping’ anthem (cue lots of men getting their six-packs out- or what they believe to be six-packs!).

With many music lovers spinning clothes above their heads, it seemed only right to compile a list of this year’s most-worn Wireless festival trends.

Story: Isabella Stockwell

3. Swan Sunglasses The Jeepers Peepers glasses were everywhere, keeping eyes safe the fashionable way

Tom Ford’s directorial debut ‘A Single Man’ is crushingly romantic, heartbreaking and authentic.

A Single Man is the 2009 film which was directed by fashion designer Tom Ford. Tom was a first time director at the time, and managed to finance the film himself. Set in the 1960’s, we are introduced to George Falconer, who is played by Colin Firth. George is a depressed gay British professor, who works and lives in Southern California.

George is a complex character, and this is not your average lovelorn tale. We are first introduced to George’s depression as we witness his grief from the moment he wakes up. His depression is made clear when he produces a gun and neatly readies his things in his home in preparation to commit suicide. Through flashback, we see the death of his long-time partner Jim, and throughout the film, more flashbacks show their deep intimacy as a couple.

The story takes place over a single day, and as George arrives to the university for work, we see the story swing in a new direction. Nicholas Hoult plays Kenny Potter, a student who is overtly fascinated

by George. As their new relationship progresses, a change can be felt in the atmosphere. George’s grief is less apparent as we see him becoming closer to Kenny, and they embark upon the exciting

A Single Man

first stage of romance.

As George begins to make peace with the death of Jim and starts to feel excited towards Kenny, he decides not to commit suicide. The viewer begins to feel that George’s life has once again been made joyful, similarly to the way he felt when he is seen with Jim throughout the flashbacks. The film’s closing scene shows George as he then suffers a fatal, unexplained heart attack.

This was a truly poignant story - and an eye opener. It’s not often that we see the story of true gay love, and in A Single Man, the love between George and Jim seems completely solid, passionate and inspirational. This wasn’t just another story which stood out become it chose to tackle the topic of homosexual relationships - it stood out because it makes the viewer understand just what real relationships are all about.

Story: Pamela Kingston

Françoise Hardy became famous in the mid 1960’s. Known for her nonchalant mod style, she quickly became iconic, and still is to this day. Françoise’s effortless style consisted of simple knits, stripes, sunglasses and prints - all mixed in with a selection of eclectic accessories - badges, berets, the occasional scooter helmet. Her straight long hair, chiselled striking features and bohemian attitude got her noticed, and she is still recognised as a style icon to this day.

Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of Balenciaga has cited Françoise’s style as a factor which influences his own designs - the evidence of this is sprinkled throughout his collections. Here is a look at Françoise Hardy’s style.

Mario Sughi is an Italian artist and illustrator, living and working in Dublin, and is the author of Nerosunero. Mario’s illustrations are minimalist in style, but vibrant in colour and meaning. Influenced by works from Stanley Spencer, Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud and David Hockney - Mario’s work has been displayed around the world, in a variety of forms from New Zealand to Milan, as well as in publications such as 3x3 Mag, Shift Calendar 2010, Clam Magazine, and Fluro Mag. In the following illustrations, Mario captures everyday scenes in a whimsical, lively portrait of our own existence, creating a world out of the ordinary which is within the realm of possibility.

Upcoming solo exhibition: “A New Sense of Emptyness“ - Greenroom Manchester, 8 Sept – 23 Oct. 2010, curated by Blank Media Collective.

The Illustrator: NEROSUNERO

The Illustrator: NEROSUNERO

The Illustrator: NEROSUNERO

The Illustrator: NEROSUNERO

Is Fashion Art? Alexandra Murphy dissects the unanswered question: is fashion really art?

Every art form is disputable, often people have different views. A generalised view is that art is defined by a pretty painting, a beautiful line drawing of a nude or an enormous sculpture. Art has been confined and segregated like everything else, which is understandable, as humans we have to have boxes to put things in so there is no discomfort and no confusion.

Eckhart Tolle, a spiritual writer, was quoted as saying “All true artists, whether they know it or not, create from a place of no-mind, from inner stillness.� Art is expression; art is someone spilling their personal feelings, heart and soul into whatever medium they can relate too.

Creativity is the only puzzle piece people need to be an artist. If it is regarded that a painter, a potter, and a writer are all definite artist what makes a fashion designer, a dancer or, say, a photographer so questionable?

Fashion, much like art has defined eras - you now have a period of time from the apparel that was worn then, in the same way that expressionism defines post world war II art and renaissance paintings are a clear reminiscence of the 1400 onwards.

Damien Hirst’s “The Golden Calf” Okay, okay, I get it. Fashion is frivolous, it’s wasteful and no- one can argue that it’s not, sometimes, ridiculously over priced, but so are some art pieces.

Take, for example, Damien Hirst’s work “The Golden Calf” this was basically a dead calf in formaldehyde, complete with gold plated hooves and horns which sold for the extortionist sum of 10.3 million pounds in 2008. It is a cow. There is no argument there - and yet most are supposed to accept it as art just because of a high price tag or not being able to understand what it’s about. It was, like most if his work, offensive to people, much like Alexander McQueen’s A/W 2009 collection, the models makeup and eccentric accessorising completely detracted from the clothes. It was a little unsettling to say the least.

In a head to head debate between Fashion Designer Zandra Rhodes and the director of the Design Museum, Alice Rawsthorn about if fashion is an art form or not, Alice made the point that designer Donna Karan once visited the Picasso museum and she had bounced from art piece to art piece until she found a green wall, which she proceeded to tell her late husband was the perfect shade of green for her next season’s lingerie collection. She wrote that her opinion shows her lack of pretension and pomposity but went on to imply that she was somewhat of an airhead for not having any other reaction to the rest of the art. That is a matter of opinion however, I deem it to be resourceful. Instead of wandering around looking at art she didn’t enjoy, she found something to inspire her to create!

If you are truly a fan of art you will see that art is in everything, it is the world as a whole. Fashion blogs are often flooded with different art mediums because THAT is where inspiration comes from!

Designers make mood boards, consisting of fabrics they like, colours they enjoy and pictures that bring them to their desired sartorial location.

Karl Lagerfeld not regarding himself as an artist is like Andy Warhol saying “I am a deeply superficial person” both are clearly not true. Both of them are masters of their craft and choose to be represented superficially when both have and have had so much invested… Maybe Banksy, the graffiti artist, had it right when he said “Is graffiti art or vandalism? That word has a lot of negative connotations and it alienates people, so no, I don’t like to use the word ‘art’ at all.”

Story: Alexandra Murphy

Alexander McQueen Chanel S/S 2010

A/W 2009

BEAUTY

Inside Christian Dior Haute Couture

diy:Bright Graphic Eyes Christian Dior’s graphic eyes were hidden behind a veil of plastic wrap, as each model strut down the runway at the Dior Hauté Couture show this season. The bright, bold eye-shadow worn by each model was sharp, vibrant, and clearly floral inspired. The colour palette consisted of a deep purple, a fainter blue and a mix of nectar-ish yellow and orange too.

To get this look: the key is to be precise. The easiest way to achieve a similar effect with the eyeshadow, is to get your hands on some tape, or something which can act as a definite line on your face, without you having to hold on to it.

Apply the tape from the side of your nose, out to the edge of your hairline.

Now that the tape is laid down, simply apply the colours of your choice along the line of the tape, and don’t forget to add in a second or third shadow for a butterfly-inspired look. Add a dab of

one of the eyeshadows below your eye, but very subtly. Blend each eyeshadow together, but only gently - make sure that you’ve applied a few layers of each shadow so that the colours are vivid. Compare each side to make sure they are completely equal and then peel back the tape.

Now you should have an equal and precise look which looks just as bold and bright as the models from the Dior show. To finish off the look, add a slick of lipstick in a chocolate shade.

Check out the products we recommend to get the look on the next page >>>

Beauty: THE PRODUCTS Dior 5-Colour Iridescent Eyeshadow - Electric Lights $58

Color Eyeshadow Palette $28

False Eyelashes $25

Dior Liquid Eyeliner $32

Shu Uemura

Givenchy Le Prisme Unique Eyeshadow $29

Cargo

Guerlain KissKiss Strass Lipstick in RoseStass $31

Get the Christian Dior Haute Couture look with sharp, bold shades and vampy lips this look is all about getting graphic.

Yves Saint Laurent MASCARA SINGULIER $30

The Products