Froth TRAVEL Edition - November 2019

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TRY THE AWARD WINNING EXIT BREWING BEERS DIRECT FROM THEIR TAPHOUSE IN RICHMOND: UITGANG BAR!

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Tipple travels in Colorado

If you like beer, you’ll love Colorado. In addition to major breweries, Colorado also has one of the largest concentrations of craft breweries producing more barrels of beer annually than any other American state.

COLORADO MOUNTAIN CRESTS & CRAFT BREWS Your 8-day tour from Denver, Colorado includes 7 nights accommodation, transport, sight-seeing with a beer aficionado and destination specialist, some meals and craft beer tastings.

Hike the famed Maroon Bells at Aspen and explore the ancient dwellings at Mesa Verde Visit Salida, a quaint, western style town with a creative arts scene and a selection of breweries, distilleries and wineries Enjoy a pairings dinner featuring Colorado Springs’ internationally diverse cuisine and big tastes from small, local beer companies

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Extend your tipple travels with 2 nights in Fort Collins from an extra $555*. A short drive from Denver, Fort Collins is home to some of Colorado’s most innovative breweries, including New Belgium and Odell’s.

Glowing Pikes Peak , Colorado Springs

Speak with an experienced travel adviser today. travelassociates.com/colorado |

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*Travel restrictions & conditions apply. Valid for sale until 31 Dec 19, unless sold out prior. Prices are per person, twin share & subject to availability. Flight Centre Travel Group Limited (ABN 25 003 377188) trading as Travel Associates. ATAS Accreditation No. A10412 TA19080

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENTS REGULAR STUFF

6 BEER NEWS

All the news that’s fit to drink 10 BEER REVIEWS

What’s got us frothing this month 11 BEER TREND

So hot right now 11 BREW TALES

The story behind a beer 12 BAR REVIEW

We pack our passports and venture into Moon Dog World 18 CHEERS TO DESIGN

Clint raves about his fave beer labels

27 SH*T MY MUM SAYS ABOUT CRAFT BEER

Silvia is disturbed by the number of IPAs at Fixation 28 AUNTY FRIDA’S KITCHEN

Did somebody say beer cookies?

29 HOME BREW HEROES

Alex shares his favourite recipes 30 FUN PAGE

Crafty Comic, Frothword, Beer Quiz and more!

TRAVEL STUFF

13 TRAVEL TIPS

Molly Rose’s Nic Sandery on how to nail a great beer adventure 20 A WORLD OF FRIENDSHIP

Meeting the people behind the brews 21 SURVIVING THE GERMAN BEER TRAIL

From Dusseldorf to Munich 22 WHEN IN ROME

Craft beer bars in Italy 23 PINTS IN PARIS

Finding great beer in the City of Lights 24 BRISBANE’S BEER CENTRAL

We explore the joys of Milton 25 KRAFTY KYRGYZSTAN

Discovering a brewing outpost in the central Asian nation 26 CHEERS FROM PERU

So much more than Macchu Pichu Tag your photos enjoying Froth mag with a beer #frothbeermag

Hello Frothy friends! This edition of Froth is all about TRAVEL! We are very excited because we went on a trip to Colorado in the United States and now we get to write about it! We also have tons of quality content from locations as far-flung as Kyrgyzstan, Paris, Peru, Italy, Germany and even Milton in Brisbane. We didn’t need a passport to go to Moon Dog World but it was still an adventure, and we also have a bunch of beer news, reviews, recipes and more fun stuff. Meanwhile, Aunty Frida cooks up some beer cookies and my Mum is severely puzzled by Fixation’s fixation with IPAs. Hope you have a great month, and may you have safe and joyful beer travels! Xx Emily

INFO

Editor Emily Day / emily@frothbeer.com Cover art Corey Harbrow coreyharbrow.myportfolio.com

Magazine Design Clint Weaver / @pocketbeagles Contributors Lucy Hamilton, Sophie Evans, Silvia Day, Frida Rowe, Clint Weaver, Liam O’Hare, Clayton Waters, Salty Otton, Michael Horn, Nic Sandery, Michelle Vanspall, Will Ziebell, Alexander Levi Moon Dog venue photos: Tim Allen / www.timallenphoto.net Frothword: Oliver Hayes

THANKS

Thanks to everyone for supporting us and being generally ace! Thanks to photographer Tim Allen (timallenphoto. net) for coming on board this month as our go-to bar snapper!! Big thanks also to Clint Weaver our designer extraordinaire for being a whiz kid and multitasking like a boss (check out Fizz + Hop bottle shop in Moonee Ponds, and beer labels on CoConspirators, Red Bluff Brewers, Thunder Road and Brewmanity for his other endeavours). Big thanks to mum and dad for coming over to help me pack several thousand copies of Froths each month to go to bars and subscribers around Australia!!! Massive thanks also to Polly Simmons and the team from Colorado Tourism for taking us to the Sunshine State and showing us a fantastic time!

Crafty Comic Michael Alesich / @ironoak Independent. Awesome. Free.

Printed by Printgraphics in Melbourne on paper produced using sustainable forestry practices. Distributed by Step Right Up Distribution, St Kilda.

All information © Alfie Dog Media.

The opinions of the contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher.

For advertising and editorial enquiries contact Emily Day at emily@frothbeer.com Froth is an independent publication created to celebrate and support Australia’s craft beer scene. Help us keep Frothing by buying an ad or just generally flinging cash at us!

Pick Froth up for free at your local bottle shop, bar or pub.

Subscribe for your home or venue at frothbeer.com/subscribe.

WWW.FROTHBEER.COM @FROTHBEERMAG

Subscribe for just $5 a month frothbeer.com/subscribe facebook.com/frothbeermag

Hi, Clint the designer here, I’d like to see more female-led breweries in the industry and would love to offer my services for FREE to women who are ready to start a business in brewing.

I’d love to work with you to design beer labels or logos, build your brand and offer any strategic services you may require.

If you would like to have a chat to see if I could be of assistance, send me an email - clint@pocketbeagles.co My work can be seen on instagram @ pocketbeagles Cheers, Clint

@frothbeermag

@frothbeermag

***FEATURE***

DO SPECIA A R O L L CO WE WENT ON A TRIP AND WE WANT TO TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT

14

COLORADO ON ONE FUEL TANK A SURPRISING AMOUNT OF BREWERIES AND A TON OF SUNSHINE

16

DELIGHTFUL DENVER

THE MILE-HIGH CITY THAT’S STACKS OF FUN

17

GOLD RUSH BOOM

WHY MINING AND BEER GOES HAND IN HAND

19

TAKE A HIKE

MOVE BEFORE BREWS IN COLORADO’S WILDERNESS

HAWAIIAN HAZE DOUBLE DRY HOPPED PALE ALE AVAILABLE 31ST OF OCTOBER

BEER NEWS Bonehead Brewing gives beer a South American makeover

Melbourne’s Bonehead Brewing popped over to Argentina earlier this year to take part in a beer festival, and came back inspired to give their award-winning Prickled Pink a Latin makeover - from a fruited Belgian Witbier to the Brazilian Catharina Sour. The Boneheads say Prickled Pink was the perfect fit for this style as it is already full of intense pink guava and watermelon flavours from the fresh red prickly pear flavours the refreshing kettle sour that hails from the southern Brazilian state of Santa Catarina is known for.

Tallboy & Moose drops DDH Coolade

Tallboy & Moose has released DDH Coolade - a double dry-hopped hazy IPA hit hard with Mosaic, Citra and Galaxy that carries the softness you’d expect and plenty of tropical juice vibes perfect for summer sippin’ by the pool! The Preston multi-taskers also have a super cool project beer due out on the same day on November 1 – Pierre, a kettle sour grisette cofermented with 200 litres of freshly pressed Harcourt pear juice. This fruited sour is tight and clean, with a subtle yeast expression and rounded pear overtone.

BWS releases ‘World’s Rarest Sixpack’

Woolies’ liquor stored BWS are keen to jump on the craft beer wagon with the launch of the ‘rarest sixpacks on Earth’. BWS claim they have gone on the world’s biggest beer run across three continents to bring customers some of the most interesting beers ever tasted. Australia’s largest liquor retailer collected cold ones from six unique breweries, including Japan’s only femalerun brewery Minoh, plus beers from Bhutan, Mexico, Germany, Poland and Italy. The beers include a Weizen (Japan), Red Rice Lager (Bhutan), Rauchbier (Germany), Crumble Sour IPA (Mexico), Belgian Blonde Ale (Mexico), and Barrel Aged Saison (Italy).

Bodriggy releases new Space Milk

Abbotsford brewery Bodriggy will release the latest version of their lactose sour series Space Milk in early November. Space Milk 5 is a collab with Strange Love soda and features sour cherry, cola and lemon.

Think you know beer?

Think again.

Guess the #brightmysterybEEr

Sanctus Brewing opens in god’s country

Sanctus Brewing Company has arrived on the Australian craft beer map with their grand opening fast approaching in mid-November. Nestled in the heartland of the Clarence Valley, Sanctus is set to become the new pride of the Clarence. “It’s the place that we like to call God’s country. It has everything that’s to love about Australia. Sun, surf, fishing, great produce, awesome people and a real ‘keep it local’ theme,”says Sanctus Brewing’s Michael Lee. Sanctus brews include Pacific Coast Lager, Big River XPA, Blueberry Crush, Valley Pale Ale and Imperial Stout. Their brand new brewery will be open for punters to visit from November 16 with a wood-fired pizza oven and Texas smoker for classic American BBQ. Find out more at facebook.com/sanctusbrewing

TWØBAYS Brewing launches world’s first gluten-free XPA

TWØBAYS Brewing Co continues to make waves in the beer world with its release of No Man’s Land XPA – the first time a gluten-free XPA has been commercially packaged anywhere in the world. Since opening its doors in December 2018, the Victorian brewery has taken gluten-free consumers and beer lovers on an exploratory journey with alternative grains, and the XPA is the next step. “It’s a step into the unknown for the gluten free beer world, which is why we called the beer No Man’s Land,” says TWØBAYS CEO Richard Jeffares, who founded the business after being diagnosed as coeliac in 2015. “For those consumers who avoid gluten and are looking to explore the exciting flavours of beer, it’s a great place to start.”

Mountain Goat’s Rare Breed Fox Chaser Farmhouse Red Ale

When Kenny announced to the brewery that a talking, craft beer-loving fox had given him the idea for this brew, we weren’t sure whether to believe him.

But we couldn’t deny it sounded like a great beer. We used a French saison yeast which delivers spiced fruit and citrus aromas, supported by the added orange peel, hibiscus and pepperberry. The jury’s still out on Kenny’s tale, but we can all agree that this is one very tasty beer. Thanks fox! Thanks Kenny!

Win

a year’s suPPly of

beer!

Moo Brew finds Australia’s palest Belgium to launch Belgian Pale Ale To celebrate the launch of their limited-release Belgian Pale Ale, Tasmania’s Moo Brew recruited the palest Belgian male in Australia to be the face of their new beer. “Yes, Belgium is a richly diverse, multicultural nation, but for our Belgian Pale Ale rhyme to work we needed to somehow find a pale Belgian male. Jens was the best we could find.” said Moo Brew marketing manager, Tim Dudgeon. Sourced from overseas (the mainland), local Belgian Jens Jacobs was selected to act as brand ambassador.

“I actually haven’t lived in Belgium for quite a while now, but Moo Brew said they’d make it work with Photoshop,” said Jacobs.

When Jens arrived in Hobart looking a little more St Kilda and a little less sun-deprived than hoped, an important decision was made. “Look, we just had to make do with the talent available. So we put him on a trawler in double underpants and clogs in the centre of Hobart,” said Dudgeon.

And while the marketing may be questionable, the beer is said to be pretty good. moobrew.com.au

Bright Brewery Mystery Beer

Exit Brewing launches collab with Rocky Ridge

Melbourne’s Exit Brewing has teamed up with WA’s Rocky Ridge to create Brekkie Juice IPA. Exit says: “It’s a super juicy IPA that we’ve added a shit ton of pineapple, passionfruit, guava and mango juice to, just like your favourite brekkie juice! The aromas and flavours of freshcut fruit will awaken your senses and you’ll get your daily dose of vitamins and minerals too!” exitbrewing.com

We do love a mystery, and what better way to exercise your beer skills than by trying to guess a mystery beer?

Bright Brewery’s head brewer Reid Stratton has created a mystery brew that will be available for punters guess what it is, for the chance to win a year’s supply of beer. To enter, head to www.brightbrewery. com.au/mysterybeer or on socials at #brightmysterybeer

WHAT’S THE BUZZ?

Intimate, cosy, friendly!

Perfect spot for making new friends or catching up with old ones to taste the very latest in craft beers on tap or from the many fridges.

Now over 800 beers to drink in the bar, buy online or take away!

beer360.com.au 468 Bridge Rd Richmond

Stomping Ground to open in airport

Collingwood brewery Stomping Ground is not only setting up a new venue in Melbourne’s south-east but is also opening a permanent brewery bar in Melbourne airport’s Terminal 3, after running a pop-up beer garden at the airport for the past two summers. Travellers will be able to enjoy a wide range of beers, from the favourites to some limited editions brewed onsite, along with a beer hall food menu and tinnies to take away.

Stomping Ground has teamed up with design team Studio Y to ensure the venue will be the perfect place to relax when your flight is delayed, or stop for a quick beer before you board.

Opening December 2019.

Sailors Grave beer puts the secrets of Skull Rock in the hands of Victorians

Visit Victoria has collaborated with East Gippsland’s Sailors Grave Brewing to produce a limited release Gose brewed using indigenous South Gippsland ingredients, including coastal flora karkalla and native river mint. Skull Rock, five kilometres off Wilsons Prom, is an imposing figure with an eerie facade sculpted over thousands of years by the waters of Bass Strait. The beer’s release coincides with the launch of a new eco-tourism experience from Tidal River by Pennicott Wilderness Journeys. Visitors will travel in Pennicott’s amphibious boats to discover the region’s beautiful coastline and marine wilderness before discovering the striking Skull Rock. The beer will also feature a cylindrical augmented reality experience to tell the story of Skull Rock!!!

FESTIVAL WATCH Brewers Feast to return to Abbotsford Convent

Brewers Feast returns to the Abbotsford Convent on Saturday 1 and Sunday 2 February, 2020, turning the gorgeous arts precinct into a weekend of summer fun with a great line-up of Australian craft beer, wine, cider, gin, cocktails, delicious food and live music.

Featuring 100-plus beers from acclaimed brewers such as Urban Alley, St Andrews Beach Brewery, Brick Lane, Stone & Wood, Dainton, Exit, Bridge Road, Mr Banks, Fixation Brewery, Burnley Brewing, CoConspirators, Bodriggy and

Willy Beer Fest

The much-loved Willy Beer Fest returns on November 16, showcasing more than 100

Hop Nation, there will also be a new brewers’ marquee featuring Braeside Brewery, BoJaK Brewing and Future Mountain.

There are also exclusive beers created for the festival, “taking the latest trends, styles and personalities of the breweries (and their brewers) to create a beer experience you can’t get anywhere else”, says festival co-founder Tyson McGeoch.

The bands will be creating their own music and beer pairings, and dedicated food-matching sites will feature great beer and mouth-watering food matches.

Bonus non-beer options include Ranahan’s wine, cider from Harcourt, Ten Sixty One and craft beers and ciders, plus wine, spritzers, live music, entertainment, a kids’ zone and American BBQ beer-matching experience. Willy Beer Festival gives you the opportunity to meet your favourite breweries and cideries, including Hop Nation, Two Birds, Moon Dog, Stomping Ground, Bonehead, Holgate Brewhouse, Blackmans, Brick Lane and more. Hosted in the newly refurbished Seaworks Williamstown with spectacular

views over the bay, the festival supports the community through partnerships with Williamstown Football Club and the Les Twentyman Foundation, aiming to raise over $5000 for programs assisting Victoria’s at-risk youth.

Willy Beer Fest, Saturday, November 16, 12pm-8pm Tickets from $35, includes a souvenir festival glass. willybeerfest.com.au

MOO BREW’S DECIDED TO LAUNCH A NEW BEER EVERY TWO MONTHS.

the

impostor west coast ipa

Is that wise?

coconspirators.com.au

@coconspiratorsbeer

M. Ployee

Cheeky Rascal, gin from Here’s Looking At You Kid, and handmade lemonade. Food is sure to delight with Bigger than Texas BBQ, Chef Calamari, Ron’s Hand burger and plenty more. Brewers Feast Craft Beer & Food Festival runs Saturday 1 February, 11am-8pm, and Sunday 2 February, 11am-5pm, at the Abbotsford Convent. For tickets and further information visit brewersfeast.com.au

Probably not.

But these ‘Limited Release’ beers will be great fun to brew.

And by brew we mean drink.

Keep an eye on our socials for sneak peeks.

@moobrewbeer @moobrewbrewery www.moobrew.com.au

available late november

BEER REVIEWS

FROM HAZY IPAS TO BRETT SAISONS, WE CHECK OUT A FINE AND FROTHY SELECTION OF NEW BEERS

BALTER HAZY DC 6% ABV Timing is everything right?

Release an Aussie-grown beer and then be voted the best brewery in Australia. What a week for the team at BalterHQ and the fact they can celebrate their success with this beer is the cherry on top. This hazy number is home-grown made with everything that encompasses the “how are ya mate?”. This edition brings mango and pineapple-like flavours to the front with a little citrus mashup at the end. With a slight malty background the bitterness is somewhat removed, letting the sweetness take over. Another cracker by Balter which again will always be in high demand from me.

Clayton Waters

MODUS OPERANDI BREWING DREAMWEAVER HAZY IPA 7% ABV The HAZY craze is still in full swing. I am personally a big fan but in a swamped market, the challenge is doing something that stands out. This MO remake of the previous Dreamweaver IPA takes our taste buds down the similar dry-hopped path with some added hazy and fruity notes to drive home that juicy flavour.

It pours like a dream and is a very easy on the eyes.

A real sweetness comes through in the form of pineapple and orange flavour. The IPA element still has a part to play with a slight piney flavour adding a low bitterness. Like a good hazy this beer was very easy to drink – Modus again produces the goods. Clayton Waters

NOMAD BREWING CO SUPERSONIC YUZU 7.8% ABV I was told I had to keep the reviews brief this month, which is excellent timing because I only need a few words for this one. Yummy yum yum. I’ve tempered my love for double IPAs in my elder years but the boozy sweetness is a perfect balancing tool for the jazzy, bitter yuzu. Is it still wanky to say well balanced? Eh, it’s well balanced. Yum. Matt Hofmann

STOMPING GROUND ‘INTO THE WOOD’ PINOT NOIR BRETT SAISON / 6.2% ABV

This is one fancy looking brew, and I’m going to assume Into The ‘Wood is a reference to Collingwood where the brewery is located. *brief Google pause* Ahem, yes it is, and I’m as surprised as you are that something so classy looking came out of Collingwood at all.

Being a Carlton supporter aside, this gorgeous saison could almost be mistaken for a sparkling rosé. Light, with the pinot noir skins from Noisy Ritual puncturing through the wild ferment, this is one to pop at your next sophisticated summer shindig. Matt Hofmann

GARAGE PROJECT WEST COAST VIKING IPA 8.3% ABV Garage Project’s newest ‘West Coast IPA’ has hit the shelves in Australia, but if you could pick this as a West Coast IPA I would shake your hand (I know that means nothing to you). But what I’m trying to say is that this would be a tough beer to identify! So flavour of the month has been kviek, a quick fermenting Norwegian yeast which has become popular with brewers wanting to pump out IPAs and farmhouse ales. On to the beer, the West Coast Viking pours a dark orange hue and presents on the nose a massive fresh fruit hop profile with hefty notes of grapefruit pith and orange rind. Also while not sweet on the palate, there is a touch of sherberty/fermented fruit aromas going on. Liam O’ Hare

MOO BREW BELGIAN PALE ALE 4.5% ABV I’m not a huge fan of Belgian beers – that big, bubblegummy flavour – eeaghk. Therefore I approached this limited release from Moo Brew with trepidation, assuaged by their incredibly fun marketing campaign that involves a super pale Belgian dude in clogs. This is no bubblegum bomb but a delicious pale ale with a touch of spice and zest. This went down a treat on Melbourne’s first hot day of spring! Maybe I do like Belgian beers after all...

Emily Day

BY EMILY DAY

BEER TREND: FRUIT SOURS

Spring is a time for renewal, hope, looking ahead to the future … and shoving an inordinate amount of berries into kettle sours, judging by the beers cropping up at crafty venues at the moment. As we zoom towards summer (yay!) the beer of choice is the fruit sour. Moon Dog Brewery has released a boysenberry sour called David Boysenbowie, while fellow Melbourne brewery Hawkers has a berry kettle sour called Into The Forest, I Go. Bright Brewery is celebrating the coming of warmer weather in the High Country with a Mango Sweetart Sour Ale, while Brisbane is getting in on the act, with Ballistic Brewery releasing a Mulberry Twang kettle sour and Newstead making a jammy dark fruit sour called The Doors of Perception. Preston’s Tallboy & Moose have starting canning their beers, with their zesty Zing Tang one of the latest brews to be packaged – a Berliner Weisse bursting with kaffir lime and lemongrass. Blessed be the fruit sours.

Okay, we need to think of a way to spruce this place up. Bring it to life.

Really make it a destination

Meanwhile at Bonehead Brewing.

Pfft that will never fit!

What we need is A SKATE PARK!!

Ah both great ideas, and I love the vision - but I was thinking more like a giant water feature and pond.

How good are lagers? Crisp, satisfying and refreshing, they’re the Crocodile Dundee of beers, one you can enjoy without thinking about too much. The irony though is lagers are one of the trickiest styles to brew as there are no big flavours to hide faults behind. But it’s time for this refreshingly honest style to make a crafty comeback!

I’ve had a few lagers recently that were amazing. First was Burnley Brewing’s Helles. Brewer Michael Stanzel, who studied brewing in Germany and worked at several lager breweries over there. He still brews in lederhosen (I am not joking). Burnley’s Helles is light and refreshing with a light biscuity bite and a ‘helles’ crisp finish.

Deeds Brewing’s Draught is another winner, a South American-inspired lager in a classy black tinnie. We asked head brewer Justin Corbitt for the story behind the beer: “We like our hazies, but sometimes it’s nice to have something lighter to sip on after a long day. And as our ethos is to brew beers we want to drink, we decided we wanted to have a lager available. Two things that stand out in the recipe are we use 20% flaked maize and we use Mandarina Bavaria hops in the whirlpool. These ingredients give a nice crisp, tortillalike flavour in the background and a nice citrus mandarin flavour upfront. We were going to make it for keg only, but after the first batch we figured it would taste pretty good out of a can on a hot day.”

Ah Phaze, I hate to be the one to point this out.

AH A LITTLE HELP HERE! Awesome, I’ll get my board

BREWERY AND TAP ROOM

By Emily Day

Another new brew is Hop Nation’s Organic Lager. Hop Nation says: “When we got thinking about the beer we wanted to drink all summer, we kept coming back to a classic lager.

Sure, there’s still time for a big hazy NEIPA and a double dry hopped triple IPA. But for long summer days it’s lager we’ll be drinking.”

What, apart from the awesome beer?

A Roller Coaster!

We already have one of those.

We've got some awesome ideas!

BREW TALES

86 Parsons Street,, Kensington VIC 3031 PH +61 490 334 892 THU 4PM-10PM FRI 4PM-11PM SAT 12PM-11PM SUN 1PM-8PM

@BoneheadBrewingAU

BAR REVIEW

TO THE MOON AND BACK

Froth checks out Moon Dog’s new Preston theme park Moon Dog does not mess around when it comes to making a splash. Literally in this case, with the brewery’s new Preston mega-structure containing an indoor lagoon, waterfall, fountain, hidden tiki bar, beer garden and kids’ playground.

We gave it a couple of weeks before checking the place out after hearing of its incredible busyness on opening night.

Popping in on a quiet Wednesday arvo we were gratified to find the rumours were true of Moon Dog World being babyfriendly – we spotted at least nine on our visit, which we actually love because hey sometimes mums and dads need to hang out in cool lagoon-filled breweries too.

There were a few groups of tradies too which made sense given the semi-industrial location, and after 5pmish the crowd grew with more post-work punters.

There are heaps of spots to pull up a pew and chill with friends, from the lagoon-side deck chairs to the upper balcony tables and the outside beer garden. The intimate tiki bar, if you can find it, is open weekends and serves rum and pina coladas. There’s also a playground area for kiddies, and the space is spread out enough that the presence of little ones is not annoying for those not keen on the toddler crowd.

After some initial teething problems that are inevitable with such a big new space, we are pleased to be able to announce that we heartily recommend Moon Dog World as a fun and unique place to visit – like no other.

Moon Dog World 32-46 Chifley Dr, Preston Open 7 days from 11am moondogbrewing.com.au

Photos: Tim Allen

The food was great, with surprising options including squid tentacle karaage, sashimi tuna, skewered swordfish loin, rotisserie chicken, 12 hour chipotle beef short ribs and slow-cooked lamb shoulder, as well as easy options like avocado dip and corn chips, burgers and baby corn dogs. The beers were fantastic – 72 taps pouring 30plus beers including crowd favourites like

Love Tap Lager and Old Mate, and more adventurous brews such as Bad Boy Bubbly barley champagne (served in a champagne glass), Splice IPA, Cake Hole Black Forest Stout and David Boysenbowie fruit sour.

Presentation was on point with different glasses for different beers (tulips, pots, schooners) all bearing the Moon Dog logo, while the staff were friendly and keen to chat about the beers.

R E E B R O F S P I 5T S R E L L TRAVE MOLLY ROSE FOUNDER NIC SANDERY SHARES HIS RECOMMENDATIONS ON GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR BEER ADVENTURES

I was lucky enough to grow up in a family that valued the learning experience of travel above almost anything, so it’s no surprise that when I was gathering all the info I could before starting Molly Rose I decided to go on a research trip. I spent four months travelling the world, investigating beer cultures and traditions, and writing about my experiences on the Molly Rose blog.

I will spend the rest of my life in pursuit of brewing the perfect beer, but what I wanted to know was how people around the world shared great times, good beer and excellent food with friends and family. Here are five tips I think could help anyone get the most out of a beer trip, whether it’s an arvo at a brewery while on a family holiday, or a longer jaunt.

1. DO SOME RESEARCH

It sounds obvious but a bit of research can go a long way. I love to know the history of local beer and brewing styles when I travel somewhere. Knowing where beers have come from and why they developed that way makes it extra special. For example, steam ale was named for the billows of steam that rose from the top of the breweries in San Francisco. The most famous steam ale producer, Anchor, was saved from closing in the 1960s by an heir to a washing machine dynasty, after which they were the first Americans to dry-hop beer since Prohibition.

The best source I found was the internet but it takes a bit of effort to sort through the chaff. I love grabbing a book for the plane. Michael Jackson wrote some crackers

about Europe, and Beyond the Pale by Sierra Nevada founder Ken Grossman is an awesome read about the birth of ‘craft beer’ as we know it.

2. REACH OUT TO MATES OF MATES OF MATES

The hive mind is a great research tool. If you’re lucky you will not only get first-hand advice on a town, great bar, fantastic pint or must-visit brewery but you might be put in touch with a local who will become your very own tour guide. You would never have found that old pub with eight local beers on handpump, or the brewery two towns over that don’t sell bottles outside of their taproom, without a local guide.

‘UNEXPECTED DETOURS ARE THE CHERRY ON TOP OF A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY’ *bonus tip: If you are lucky enough to score a friendly tour guide, bring them a hat or sticker or bottle of your favourite local beer, wine or footy team from home. They will love it!

3. MAKE A SMALL PLAN BUT DON’T GET HUNG UP ON IT

We are not always lucky enough to have four months to travel the world investigating beer, so some solid research and a travel plan will help to make the most of limited time. But, and this is a BIG but, don’t get so hung up on that plan that you miss out on new adventures. What I like to do is have a few ‘must-hit spots’ in every area and then fill in the gaps as I go.

Unexpected detours are the cherry on top of a wonderful holiday.

4. CHAT WITH LOCALS

I fill the gaps in my travel plan by chatting to locals. A tried and true method is to hit up a well-known bar/brewery/restaurant and have a great time. Enjoy everything they have on offer and make friends with the bar staff, waiters and local customers.

Then just ask them for tips. Passionate people always want to share the places they love with like-minded folk, and let’s be honest, beer people are passionate people.

5. GO IN WITH AN OPEN MIND

Along with leaving gaps in your schedule, this tip is vital to having the most vibrant and unexpected experiences. If you don’t

go in with an open mind you might not get to experience the best 7-11 store bottle of beer walking around a park in Berlin, or a 16-year-old lambic in the back of a shed in rural Belgium, the most perfectly poured lager in an eight-seater restaurant in Tokyo or a warm flat beer matched with a pickled egg in a pub in England.

Travel for me is all about learning new things, enjoying new experiences and meeting new people. If you’re reading this magazine, I am sure you have already realised, but beer people are the best people and they are everywhere ‒ so get out there and start exploring!

Nic Sandery is founder and brewer at Molly Rose Brewing Co, 279 Wellington St, Collingwood. mollyrosebrewing.com

N O E N F U O E O L D T A ANK R O L O C EMILY DAY DISCOVERS THE INCREDIBLE BEER CULTURE AND NATURAL BEAUTY OF COLORADO

“If you live in Colorado, you have to drink beer,” says Ashley, Visit Denver representative and one of the first people we meet in Colorado.

The state has about 400 breweries, with 100 more in the works, meaning you don’t have to go too far to find top-shelf craft brews, from barrel-aged wild ales to hazy IPAs and German lagers. After arriving in Denver and defying our jet-lag with some excellent coffee (yes, in America!) we set off on a six-day adventure to investigate the state’s breweries, landscapes, great food and fun times.

After a day in Denver (read more on p16) we hot-footed it to Colorado Springs, an hour and a half south of Denver at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. We stopped to take in the view at the Garden of the Gods, a whopping area of sandstone formations pointing up in odd angles which we found out took place over hundreds of millions of years and THERE WERE TONS OF DINOSAURS WANDERING AROUND AT THE TIME ... then an INLAND OCEAN popped up and WATER DINOSAURS LIKE PLESIOSAURS WERE SWIMMING AROUND ... it was really intense. My mind was really boggled!

Luckily from there we got to go to a brewery, and it was a really cool one.

Amanda of Bristol Brewing

Located in a former primary school which is now home to cafes and art shops, Bristol Brewery is a family-owned business run

by Mike Bristol and his wife Amanda, who took us on a tour of the brewery that they started in 1994. Next up was a tasty lunch at Phantom Canyon Brewing Company, Darren Baze and followed his Goat Patch by a tasting

paddle at Goat Patch Brewery (also located in a former school!). After meeting brewer and co-owner Darren Baze we found the brewery was named after his extremely long beard. The brewery had a great laidback vibe and we enjoyed the adults-only colouring-in activity sheets.

Tommyknocker Brewery, Idaho Springs

Josiah at Colorado Mountain Brewing

For dinner we popped into Colorado Mountain Brewery and got to hang out with head brewer, Josiah Hannan, who was a total legend and showed us around his tiny brewery in which he somehow manages to pump out enough beers to keep the busy restaurant satisfied. We were going to have a nightcap at nearby Fossil Brewery but luckily it was closed by the time we got there because by this point I was pretty much ready for some shut-eye.

A good night’s sleep refreshed my beer vibes and we were ready to tackle a new day of Colorado goodness. Did I mention that Colorado gets about 300 days of sunshine a year? It’s pretty ridiculous.

The next morning we headed to the town of Golden – named, I am going to guess, after the Colorado gold rush – which is also the birthplace of Coors Brewery. ‘Coors!’ I hear you exclaim, ‘why did you go there?’

Good question, seeing as we are lovers of small, independent breweries, but I gotta say there’s something cool about seeing a whopping big bottling line in progress – the bottles whipping around like Formula One cars, I’m like, ‘They’re going to fall over!

They’re going to smash! Aagh… oh they’re fine.’ It’s quite hypnotic. We also got to check out the brewery’s ‘Native Series’ using all Colorado hops and malt.

The next stop was Idaho Springs, it reminded me of a cute Swiss mountain town but with less Toblerone.

We checked out Tommyknocker Brewery (a

Clint serves himself some Colorado Native at Coors

tommyknocker being a mythical creature that lives in underground tunnels and tricks miners), which had some cool local brews such as a pale ale brewed with handpicked spruce pine needles and a cream ale brewed with Palisade Setting off on our peach wood. Just adventure in Fort Collins down the road was Westbound & Down Brewery, which was a bit hip and had edgy sours like a saison aged for 240 days in a foeder and then on apricots for two months.

We weren’t allowed to linger on the mountain for too long, as we were whisked off to the town of Fort Collins (an hour and a quarter north of Denver). There, I have to admit, I fell in love. It is a really pretty town. Imagine Fitzroy about 10-15 years ago on a warm summer’s evening Fresh off the bottling with beautiful people line at New Belgium laughing in outdoor lamplit patios, enjoying their locally sourced cuisine and clinking glasses while looking lovingly into each other’s eyes. I dunno, that’s just the vibe I got. There were flowers everywhere, people riding bikes, record shops and whisky bars and heaps of nice restaurants.

Brewery-wise it’s pretty spoilt, with more than 25 in the town.

“Colorado is built on that pioneering spirit, and I think craft beer

is the new wave of pioneers,” says Liz, a Colorado Tourism rep we met in Fort Collins, who became our firm friend after a day of cycling (and a fun evening at a whisky bar).

Beer & Bike Tour offer a two-wheeled tour of some of the town’s breweries, so we jumped on our bikes and headed to New Belgium. New Belgium was started in 1991 by then-husband-and-wife Jeff Lebesch and Kim Jordan, who wanted to bring Belgian-quality beer to the US. Almost three decades later, it’s the fourth-largest craft brewery in America and is still independent: the brewery is 100 per cent employee-owned.

They’re passionate about sustainability and staff Cycling in Fort Collins welfare – perks include an employee profit-sharing plan, on-site medical clinic, and a Fat Tire Cruiser bike on employees’ first anniversaries. On fifth anniversaries, employees get a week-long trip to Belgium.

THIS SAISON WAS SO GOOD I BOUGHT A JUMPER THAT SAID ‘SAISON’ Odell Brewing’s solar panels

Next up was Odell Brewery, another powerhouse with an impressive sustainability program and one of the best beer gardens we’ve seen, with food trucks, games, live music and plenty of shady trees.

Our third stop, family-owned Horse & Dragon Brewery was a definite change of pace, located in an industrial pocket of Fort Collins and run by husband-and-wife team Tim and Carol Cochran. They were a super rad family and we were super stoked to meet them and hear about their beer story – which was 25 years in the making!

Funkwerks in Fort Collins

Just around the corner was the petite Funkwerks.

Barrels abound in their tiny space, plus a bar serving about 20 different varieties of saisons, sours and barrel-aged goodies like Red Wine Barrel-Aged Dark Brett Saison Ale and Tropical King Imperial Saison. You know how some people

get that crazy light in their eyes when they talk about something they are super excited about? Owner and brewer Gordon got that when he was talking about yeast. And after tasting the Tropic King, I’m not super into saisons, but this saison was so good I bought a jumper there that said ‘SAISON’.

I was pretty ready for a nap by this stage, but our hosts weren’t going to let us off that lightly, and we embarked on the final leg of the bike ride to Purpose Brewing, and I’m glad we did.

Founded by Peter Bouckaert, who was head brewer at New Belgium after a decade at Belgian icon Rodenbach (try to beat that on your resume), Purpose is an intimate tap room serving up pointy-end delights such as Hibiscus, a Belgian blonde with pink peppercorn and hibiscus flowers, Bos Trip, an amber beer laid down on shiitake mushrooms, and Nacht Up, a black ale matured on coconut, orange peel, vanilla beans, grains of paradise and Brazilian Amburana wood, “woken up” on locally fire-roasted Sumatra coffee. Luckily this was the last brewery on the bike tour as I think that would have been a hard act to follow.

On our last day in Colorado, we popped into the adorably-named town of Loveland, 50 minutes north of Denver. There, we checked out Grimm Brothers Brewhouse for some fairytale-inspired brews, Verboten Brewery for playful beers that upend the German purity law with additions such as lime puree, caramel, rhubarb and coffee.

Loveland Aleworks knocked our socks off with their Lemon Bar Sour and Strawberry Vanilla Milkshake IPA, then it was a quick stop at Weldwerks Brewery in nearby Greeley for some seriously drool-worthy experimental beers, such as a Papaya Milkshake IPA, French Toast Milk Stout and a Taco Gose made with fire-roasted tomatoes, sea salt, chili powder, paprika, oregano, onion powder, garlic powder, and cumin … wow!

Luckily this was our last stop because at this point my brain was about to explode with brewery knowledge and also I felt like I needed a week of cleansing kale juice to reset my liver (I didn’t actually do this but I did think about it).

It’s hard to sum up such an awesome week but we’ll give it a bash. Colorado. Amazing landscape. Has a ton of breweries and everyone’s really nice. Double thumbs up.

Emily Day and Clint Weaver travelled to Colorado as guests of Colorado Tourism.

Horse & Dragon Brewery, Fort Collins

TOP 5 THINGS TO DO IN COLORADO IF YOU ARE A BEER FIEND 1. VISIT THE GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL. This massive beer fest over three days in October sees more than 800 breweries and 3500-plus beers converging on Denver. Get an insight into new beer trends and experience the fun and camaraderie of the US beer industry.

2. GO TO NEW BELGIUM BREWERY. This independent brewery opened in 1981 and is a slice of American craft beer history. It has a ripper beer garden and one of the most beautiful ‘foeder forests’ – a huge room filled with massive wooden tanks – in the world. I hugged one like it was a tree.

3. DO SOME OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND THEN VISIT A BREWERY. Coloradans know that life is all about balance, and the natural order of thing is to climb a mountain or engage in some gentle white-water rafting before pulling up a pew to enjoy some craft brews.

4. SPEND AN ARVO IN A DENVER BEER GARDEN. Or patio, as they like to call it in North America. With food trucks, chilled vibes and plenty of cute dogs chilling with their beer-loving owners, a lengthy session in a sunny spot with a tasting paddle is a great way to relax and probably make some new friends.

5. JUST BREATHE IN THAT PURE AIR. It’s like 0% humidity and 100% sunshine and clean mountain air.

You feel more wholesome just being there. Despite all the beer!

USEFUL SITES colorado.com coloradobrewerylist.com beerandbiketours.com

Garden of the Gods

HIGH TIMES Emily Day discovers the laid-back joys of the mile-high city of Denver local hops, barley and fruit. The Crooked Stave taproom in Denver is a must-visit, with brews such as Nightmare on Brett Dark Sour Ale aged in whisky barrels and Sour Rosé Wild Ale fermented in oak with raspberries & blueberries. Delish!

COLORADO’S CAPITAL HAS ITS HISTORY IN THE OLD WEST BUT THE THOROUGHLY MODERN CITY OF TODAY HAS STACKS TO OFFER, INCLUDING ALMOST 150 BREWERIES. HERE ARE OUR TOP BREWERY PICKS TO VISIT IN DENVER. 1 DENVER BEER CO Our first stop in Denver and we could happily have chilled there all day. Denver Beer Co has an awesome selection of beers on tap, from the smashable (Raspberry Kölsh) to the delectable (Spiced Porter).

There’s a food truck pulled up outside, communal outdoor seating filled with young people, families and several cute dogs. Next door you’ll find the brewery’s side project, Cerveceria Colorado, which serves up Mexican-inspired craft beers such as Cocolimón Sour and Churro Stout.

Clint at Denver Beer Co

backed up by contemporary Italian dishes, and the staff and owners were super friendly and keen to chat about how they create these amazing beers.

3 TRVE BREWING CO Headbangers will love this heavy metal brewery that concocts uniquely named craft brews such as the Cosmic Crypt Farmhouse Pale Ale, Exhumation East Coast Pale Ale and Red Chaos Mixed Culture Golden Ale on Colorado Montmorency Cherries. Yeaaaaaaaah!

4 FICTION BREWING CO Nerds, assemble! This brewery combines a love of books and craft beer with titles such as ‘Off Script’ Dry Pilsner, ‘Antiquarian’ American Golden Sour and ‘Madame Psychosis’ New England Pale Ale. The owners are unashamed fans of books and brews and also run Harry Potter Trivia nights.

5 PROST BREWING CO Lovers of classic German styles will appreciate this brewery that sticks to traditional beers such as Pilsner, Altbier, Radler and Rauchbier, plus some fun boozed-up and playful varieties like the Bourbon Barrel-Aged Dortmunder and Peach Kölsch.

2 LIBERATI BREWERY & RESTAURANT This classy Italian restaurant has its own small brewery inside where they create beer-wine hybrids they call ‘Oenobeers’ – which they define as “beers with up to 49% of the fermentable sugars coming from grapes or a grape product”. While this may sound limiting, the variety was astonishing with brews including a New England Oeno Double IPA, Botanical Belgian Farmhouse, Strong Oyster Oenobeer and (my favourite) a Port Oenobeer. A divine experience

7 MOCKERY BREWING CO Making a mockery of strict brewing rules such as the German Reinheitsgebot that forbids brewers using ingredients other than barley, water and hops, Mockery loves to experiment, explore and push the boundaries with beers such as Tequila Barrel Aged Sour with Strawberry & Lime, Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged Chocolate Macadamia Nut Oatmeal Stout, Pina Colada Cream Ale, Peach & Sage Braggot, and Salted Scotch Ale. Suddenly the rules don’t seem so important after all.

8 EPIC BREWING COMPANY Not the New Zealand one – this Utah-based brewing company also has a brewery and taproom in Denver. The beers are certainly epic, such as the Triple Barrel Big Bad Baptist, which is made by ageing coconut and Colombian coffee beans in fresh whiskey barrels, while imperial stout ages in rum and whiskey barrels, before the trio is hand-blended. Dang *wipes off drool*...

9 WYNKOOP BREWING CO This brewery in downtown Denver has a fantastic history – it was opened in 1988 by four guys including John Hickenlooper, who went on to become Colorado’s governor (and is now running for US Senate). When it first opened, the downtown area was sketchy as heck but it’s now a lovely spot, and the brewery, which also has a billiards hall, serves 40 different styles including Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout (not oysters … look it up), golden ale with chilli peppers and a smoky schwarzbier.

10 WOODS BOSS BREWING CO This had us stumped at first with the name, but after speaking to owner Jordan Fink

6 CROOKED STAVE ARTISAN BEER PROJECT This brewery is well known for their wild, sour and barrel-aged beers which often use

(pictured) we learnt ‘Woods Boss’ was his job description when he worked in the wilderness on school camps.

Jordan’s energetic lifestyle is still evident in the brewery – he uses a kayak paddle as a mash paddle – and the brewery bar is set up to look like a wood cabin. A cosy and chilled spot with plenty to enjoy on tap, from the ‘Saison Paradisio’ Chardonnay Barrel Aged Saison to the ‘No Root, No Peacock’ Blonde Ale with Strawberries & Mandarin Orange.

HOT TIP: You may need a designated driver to get you around town, and there are plenty of tours available. We can also recommend going on an open-air tuktuk (etukride.com) brewery tour (below) as the most fun!

FIVE CULTURAL AND FUN THINGS TO DO IN DENVER (SO YOU CAN PRETEND YOU’RE NOT JUST THERE FOR THE BEER)

1 Check out the sporting stadiums and cheer like a local to any of Denver’s seven sporting teams that include NFL (Broncos), basketball (Nuggets), baseball (Colorado Rockies), hockey (Colorado Avalanche), soccer (Colorado Rapids), lacrosse (Denver Outlaws) and even rugby (Glendale Raptors).

2 Check out the many museums and art galleries in the city including the American Museum of Western Art, History Colorado Centre, Denver Museum of Miniatures, Toys & Dolls, Museum of Contemporary Art, and Black American West Museum.

3 Go gourmet and check out Denver’s foodie scene. We were pleasantly surprised to discover how much top-shelf

cuisine was on offer and from so many different nationalities – as well as the city’s 680 food trucks for casual snacks. For something out of the ordinary, check out Acorn restaurant at The Source Hotel + Market Hall, while Denver Union Station is packed with great bars, cafes and a chillout zone with free shuffleboard.

4 Pick up some unique new and vintage clothes at Rockmount Ranch Wear which sells classic Wild West gear from snap-button shirts to cowboy boots, hats and ties – and was where the cowboy outfits were sourced for the movie Brokeback Mountain.

5 Colorado legalised weed for recreational use in 2012, and there are about 500 dispensaries in Denver selling pot in various forms, from flowers to edibles, tinctures and drinks. (Keep in mind that rules still apply – you’ll need to show ID such as a passport to enter the dispensary, and you also can’t consume the drug in the dispensary or in public. Also be aware marijuana is still illegal in the neighbouring states so don’t be leaving Colorado with it in your bag. Check out the rules online first to avoid any legal hassles!)

Emily Day went to Colorado as a guest of Colorado Tourism. For more info on breweries and activities in Denver, head to www.denver.org

THE NEW GOLD RUSH WHY MINING AND BREWING MIX

When you look at the sheer number of pubs in towns like Bendigo and Ballarat, you can’t help concluding that there is a direct link between mining and a need for beer. It makes sense – thousands of people flocking to an area to set up camp and search for gold, the water would have quickly become unsafe to drink due to human waste, but turn it into beer and you’ve got a safe, delicious drink after a hard day scrabbling around in the mud. From brewery booms in mining towns such as Ballarat and Kalgoorlie, to German immigrants bringing lager yeast to California, you’ll find the links everywhere between beer and gold.

California Gold Rush and Steam Ale The discovery of gold in California in 1848 sparked one of the biggest mass movements in North American history. Thousands of prospective gold miners travelled to San Francisco and the surrounding area; by the end of 1849, the non-native population of the California territory was some 100,000 (compared with the pre-1848 figure of less than 1000). A total

of $2 billion worth of precious metal was extracted from the area during the Gold Rush, which peaked in 1852. To quench the miners’ thirst, a style called steam beer was made by numerous breweries in California and became a popular workingclass drink, similar to the origins of porter in London. The style, also called California Common, is still the flagship product of San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing today.

Moritz, Julius and Jacob Cohn arrived in town. In 1856 they began making cider and soft drinks and two years later built a brewery. In 1880 Moritz’s son, also Julius, was sent to Germany to learn the art of brewing lager-style beer and on his return in 1882 the Cohn Brothers began to brew Excelsior Lager. It was Australia’s first successful lager beer, introduced five years before the more famous Foster’s.

Victorian Gold Rush and Lager Gold was discovered in Bendigo in 1851, and two years later, Danish brothers

Colorado Gold Rush and Brewery Boom The Colorado gold rush began in 1858, with the influx of gold-seekers resulting in many breweries opening in the area – saloon owners even accepted pinches of gold dust in exchange for beers. Rocky Mountain Brewing opened first in Denver in 1859, while German immigrant Adolph Coors founded Golden City Brewery in 1873, which later became Coors. One record suggests as many as 129 breweries opened in Colorado the late 19th and early 20th century. Today the state is home to more than 400 established breweries. << Like many craft brewers today, 19th century gold miners sported flannel shirts and long beards.

COLORADO

BEER DESIGN

By Clint Weaver

Part of my job, and really just personal interest, is keeping an eye on international markets and design trends. I’m a fan of the design of quite a few US breweries: I’ve featured Grimm Ales in Froth, and breweries like Other Half, Evil Twin and Prairie Artisan Ales I feel are pushing boundaries and forging trends, so I was excited to travel to Colorado to witness the scene firsthand and compare it to what comes across my Instagram and Pinterest feeds.

My first impressions were confirming some physical trends: big cans are a thing. A lot of breweries we visited were offering takeaway crowlers, big almost-litre cans with stick-on labels that are visually striking, almost comical in size, but provide a lot of room for some fun branding. Denver Beer Co had big bright and fun designs which caught the eye immediately.

More popular are the 16-ounce (473ml) cans, again with sticker labels to allow flexibility for limited releases, a trend that has definitely reached Australia. The beer packaging was very illustration-heavy; the wholesome retro feel of Bristol Brewing company stood out, and a lot of artwork drew inspiration from Colorado’s beautiful scenery. Colorado Native, a sub brand of Coors using local ingredients did the outdoorsy mountain explorer thing extremely well.

Speaking of Coors, who have played a pivotal role in Colorado’s beer history, the old beer labels we saw at the History Colorado Centre’s ‘Beer Here’ exhibition and on the Coors Brewery tour were super interesting; steel tins featuring skiing or cowboys to sell beer, and kitsch little 30-year-old Christmas beers give an insight into a different time. The “wow” moment for me though, was seeing the superbly illustrated cans from Loveland’s Grimm Brothers Brewhouse. The German beer-focused brewery drew their name from the famous fairytale authors and took inspiration from their stories for the artwork and names of their beers. They employed designer/illustrator Josh Emrich (Instagram @emrichoffice) whose work also adorns the fantastic Bottle Logic Brewing and Seismic Brewing cans. Beautiful artwork that extended beyond the cans into posters and puzzles, and really draws you into the brand story.

From top, left to right: Denver Beer Co’s crowlers, Emily with Colorado Native’s IPA, old Coors Christmas beer label, a historic Colorado beer label at the History Colorado Centre, Bristol Brewing Co, Grimm Brothers.

Hikes and Brews Climb a mountain, look at a mountain goat, drink a beer. It’s a timeless combination By Emily Day Colorado is known for its winter skiing, but visiting in summer means you get to enjoy stunning hikes in the Rocky Mountains and many national parks. Here are five hikes to enjoy (and the best breweries to go for a beer afterwards).

Maroon Lake Scenic Trail Difficulty: Easy Distance: 1.6km round-trip Drive time from Denver: 4 Hours Maroon Bells offers multiple hiking trails and some of the most beautiful scenery in Colorado. This popular and easy trek goes around the lake; keep an eye out for the active beaver pond.

POST-HIKE BREWERY: ASPEN TAP, ASPEN

Fountain Valley Trail Difficulty: Easy Distance: 3.7km Drive time from Denver: 45 mins If you’re looking for an easy hike close to Denver, Fountain

Valley Trail feels like a trip into an enchanted realm with great slabs of pink and orange rock against the blue sky.

POST-HIKE BREWERY: GRIST BREWING COMPANY, HIGHLANDS RANCH

Alberta Falls Hike Difficulty: Moderate Distance: 2.5km round-trip Duration: 1 hour Drive Time from Denver: 2 Hours If you have time to visit one waterfall in Rocky Mountain National Park, this is a superb choice. The scenic waterfall thunders down a small gorge and offers hikers an excellent spot to enjoy a relaxing picnic.

POST-HIKE BREWERY: VERBOTEN BREWING AND BARREL PROJECT, LOVELAND

Hanging Lake Hike Difficulty: Moderate Distance: 3.8km round-trip Duration: 2-4 hours Drive time from Denver: 2 .75 hrs A very popular hike, Hanging Lake is a short but demanding

hike to two waterfalls and one of the most beautiful lakes in Colorado.

POST-HIKE BREWERY: GLENWOOD CANYON BREWING COMPANY, GLENWOOD SPRINGS

Chicago Lakes Trail Difficulty: Difficult Distance: 14.6km Duration: About 5-7 hours Drive time from Denver: 1.25hrs This is probably the most scenic hike in the Mount Evans Wilderness, and it is also one of the most popular. Expect breath-taking scenery, glassy mountain lakes and maybe even a bald eagle soaring overhead.

POST-HIKE BREWERY: WESTBOUND & DOWN BREWERY, IDAHO SPRINGS

Hiking tips: Make sure you have adequate water, sunscreen, enough clothing and layers for changing conditions and a good map. Keep an eye out for wildlife including elk, mountain goats, bald eagles, deer, foxes, bears, snakes and very cute prairie dogs. Obvs keep it clean too, carry out what you take in.

Check out www.colorado.com for more hiking tips and ideas

Emily and Clint travelled to Colorado as guests of Colorado Tourism.

DENVER, COLORADO Gateway to the Rockies and the American West.

Experience Denver, Colorado, the active, outdoor city with spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains, farm-to-table cuisine, local breweries serving craft beer and plenty of shopping! Discover Denverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative side in art districts and attractions like the Denver Art Museum, explore Denver Union Station and historic Larimer Square and see a concert under the stars at Red Rocks Park & Amphitheatre.

VISITDENVER.com

Vanspall reveals the HAVE BEER Michelle stories behind some of the WILL TRAVEL brew world’s famous faces BEST JOB EVER? Before you read on, just remember I am not trying to name drop or brag, (Ok, maybe just a little) but I believe I have a pretty awesome job that allows me to travel, and the best bit about travel for me is meeting amazing people!

I am part of a small import, export and distribution company; Northdown Craft Beer Movement. Northdown began nine years ago and I’ve had my hand in it from day one, volunteering in return for delicious beer, and joined in a full-time capacity a couple years ago. My role is to look after the people. Customer relations, marketing, sales, design, events, and onthe-road repping makes up my day, but in such a small close-knit team, it’s all hands on deck.

Without rattling off too much of Northdown’s mission statement, our passion is to find independent breweries leading the way in their field. Whether it is doing something new and out of this world every other week, pushing boundaries, toying with new techniques, or just smashing out amazing beers for years. We research like hell. We scour the globe. We try to find what would excite us and the Australian market.

Now as much as it’s a beer company, at Northdown we like to also focus on the people behind it. Their stories, their families, their team, their passions and what led them to become brew gods. And the only way to do that properly is to meet them and have several “get to know you” beers. Through these experiences, we have discovered how impressive and/or hilarious these people truly are. Let me share with you what we have learnt while travelling with them. Don’t stress, brewers, I’m not revealing any secrets. That’s between us!

3Fonteinen, Belgium Gaëtan Claes Constantly has marriage proposals in front of the foeders and their insane fame has not got to their egos, even though it should!

Amager Bryghus, Denmark Morten Valentin Lundsbak & Jacob Storm Two loose cannons here. These are Vikings you want to hit the town with! Jacob is also Denmark’s ex-strongman winner but wouldn’t hurt a fly.

Baird Beer, Japan Bryan & Sayuri Baird A loud, hilarious American with a six-pack (and I don’t mean beer) and a beautiful wife who is really running the show. We even had our first meeting in an onsen (naked public bathhouse).

Beer Here, Denmark Christian Skovdal Andersen We’ve had a long love affair with Christian.

His wedding on Bornholm island was one of the most entertaining days we’ve experienced.

Evil Twin, USA Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø Jeppe can seem quite serious, but boy does he have an infectious laugh. So much passion for great food, whether it’s from Attica or the best late-night kebab in Copenhagen.

Far Yeast Brewing Co, Kagua, Japan Shiro Yamada Shiro is a competition-level rock climber and rides his motorbike through mountain roads to get to his picturesque brewery. He is the ultimate humble perfectionist.

Mikkeller, Denmark Mikkel Borg Bjergsø The Scandi-style office are reminiscent of Google headquarters. Mikkel runs 50km a week and has a treadmill next door to his office, and still gets shy in crowds.

Marin Brewing, Moylans Brewing, USA Brendan & Jess Moylan You know if Brendan and Jess are in a room before you even walk in. They treat you like family. Brendan can drink whiskey like a BOSS and Jess keeps him in check.

Omnipollo, Sweden Henok Fentie & Karl Grandin The most creative and humble team! Henok is never stressed and has an eagle eye for fashion. Karl’s creative mind makes you want to do more with your own life. He is just oozing with love and kindness.

Penyllan, Denmark Jess Andersen Jess embodies everything a woman should flaunt. She’s confident, ambitious and not afraid to speak her mind, and can rock a sexy dress to brew days. She is who I want to be when I grow up!

Stillwater, USA Brian Strumke Brian is as cool as they come. Stylish, eclectic and not afraid to voice his opinion. He is obsessed with natural wine and polishes the bottle before you have even had a glass.

‘WE HAD OUR FIRST MEETING IN AN ONSEN’ I can confirm that beer people, no matter where they live or where they are from, are the friendliest and most welcoming personalities I’ve ever come across and feel truly fortunate to have the opportunity to meet and share a beer with them in their homelands.

I strongly encourage you to travel. To start a piggy bank. Or rather a brewery bank. To visit your breweries. Get in touch beforehand, because I promise you, if you loved their beer before, well there is something quite marvellous about being in the thick of where the magic happens. www.northdown.com.au

MATESHIP ON THE BEER TRAIL WILL ZIEBELL REVEALS HOW TO CONVINCE A FRIEND TO JOIN YOU ON A BEER-FOCUSED GERMAN HOLIDAY

When you convince your best mate to meet up with you in Germany, at what point do you admit just how much this holiday is focused on beer? Sure, the country’s famous for the stuff so dropping into some breweries and drinking a few steins is expected, but when do you reveal your painstakingly researched list of breweries?

Speaking from experience, letting them know your true intentions after you’ve both arrived in Germany is too late. But strike a few of those breweries off the list and add in a few churches, museums and vintage stores and your friendship may well survive.

Ten days travelling from Düsseldorf in the west to Munich in the south maybe didn’t include as many breweries as I’d first planned, but soaking in the different beer cultures was a wonderful reminder of how beautiful German beer is, for someone intensely caught up in Australia’s craft beer scene.

many you’ve had. When it’s time to move on, just put your coaster over your glass and pay up. Himmel und Erde is a local dish that goes particularly well with altbier – blood sausage served with onions, mashed potato and apple sauce.

COLOGNE “How can people who live on the same river hate each other so much?”

Cologne is less than half an hour by train from Düsseldorf and also sits on the banks of the Rhine but if there’s one thing people from both cities dislike, it’s each other. On our last night in Düsseldorf we were told to watch out for their beer, the kölsch, as it looks like urine and tastes far worse.

ADD IN A FEW CHURCHES, MUSEUMS AND VINTAGE STORES AND YOUR FRIENDSHIP MAY WELL SURVIVE

DÜSSELDORF Mate: “I’ll grab you a beer, what are you drinking?”

Me: “It’s table service and they only have one type of beer.”

Mate: “What in the whole city? It better be a pretty good beer.”

While technically you can find a pilsner in Düsseldorf, we’re here for one beer: the altbier. The brilliantly bronze ale that mixes malt sweetness, bitterness and a clean finish is a style that rarely appears anywhere in Australia.

Often referred to as the “longest bar in the world”, Düsseldorf’s old town, or Altstadt, has hundreds of bars and restaurants and its small size makes meandering through its narrow streets the perfect way to discover beer. The breweries Füchschen, Uerige, Schlüssel and Kürzer are all based in the old town, while Schumacher brewery is a little closer to the train station and an ideal spot to try your first alt. Find a spot at a table and relax as waiters bring you glass after glass of altbier when you’re in danger of looking dry, marking on your coaster how

Cologne Cathedral

Named for the German spelling of the city (Köln), if only piss could taste as good. The ale that’s lagered and provides a boundless refreshment thanks to a delicate mix of floral spice from the noble hops and soft sweetness from the malt.

There are dozens of breweries in Cologne and its surrounds with Päffgen, Sion, Gaffel, Früh and Reissdorf being some of the largest. Start at the breweries nearest the Cologne cathedral, its impressive height and history can fool your co-traveller into thinking you’re visiting the city for its churches.

BAMBERG “That many nights in Bamberg? It’s the smallest place we’re going to – why are we spending so long there?”

When a city brews some of your

Cologne Cathedral

favourite beers, three nights isn’t nearly enough, particularly when Bamberg is celebrating Sandkerwa – its own version of Oktoberfest. The smoky, bacon-like rauchbiers of Bamberg are a liquid key to beer’s past when smoke beer was common, and the city’s historic centre is like stepping foot into the Middle Ages. Like anywhere in Bavaria, you could spend hours at any single brewery but the experience of drinking Schlenkerla’s Rauchbier from a wooden tank on the streets of Bamberg is one not to be missed.

If the breweries, beers and celebrations of Bamberg aren’t enough for you, get your hands on a bike and explore the surrounding towns and breweries. To quote the guy in the bike shop: “This is Bavaria, you can cycle in any direction and find food and beer.”

MUNICH “How can there be no Uber here when it’s a German word?”

Arriving before Oktoberfest to avoid the swelling hordes of Australians, drinking beer in Munich during summer is incomparable. The long days, multitude of beer gardens and selection of helles lager and wheat beer make it the top spot for enjoyable afternoons, with Paulaner Brauhaus and Augustiner-Keller being our top picks to drink lager in the sun. It feels like most of Bavaria is on holidays too.

Hefeweizen is a style I’d never go near back home but drinking an effervescent, fullbodied beer that reeks of banana in a lush beer garden makes Melbourne’s winter and bars feel like a world away.

What I’d do for an IPA… Will Ziebell is a Melbourne beer writer.

Bamberg

Squiddy & Will

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL IN ITALY

Drink Art

Drink Art

BY SOPHIE EVANS

Bere Buona Birra

W

e all know what it’s like to travel and come across bar after bar targeted towards tourists. If you’re trying to live like a local while overseas, finding authentic haunts can often be tricky, but they’re worth the extra effort. While recently spending time in Italy studying I stumbled across some cool craft beer bars worth checking out. The best thing about Italy (really!) is the snacks you get when you order a drink: olives, crisps, arancini ... (the secret being that your service charge pays for them!) You weren’t going to get dinner anyway, were you?

Via Adige 13, Porta Romana Another one to tick off in this happening district. ‘Drink Good Beer’ is the name and also what you’ll do. Six beers are on tap (including a dry stout, weisse and IPAs), with a delicious golden ale on hand pump behind the bar. If you’re still thirsty, craft bottles and cans fill the fridge. An intimate, bright space filled with locals – you’ll just have to fool them that you are too.

Bere Buono Birra

FLORENCE Fermento

Via del Canto dei Nelli 38, Mercato Centrale “Food and beer” is their motto: simple but effective! Choose between pizza and pasta or steak and hamburgers to enjoy with their delicious beers. I enjoyed a La Prima lager which reminded me of Mountain Goat Pale Ale. I noticed they had a birramisù on the menu which intrigued me, but I’ll leave up to you to taste!

Il Vinile

MILAN Perditempoteca

Via Ludovico Muratori 3, Porta Romana Hit up this cosy bar for “apericena” between 6-8pm. The hybrid term refers to happy hour plus dinner buffet, where you only pay for drinks. Nibble on meats, house-made bruschette and savoury slices.

There are six Italian beers on tap, all pouring craft beers from local breweries in the Lombardy region, from a delicious K�lsch to an IPA and porter. The bar’s name means “a place to lose time”, and you will!

‘A BLINK-ANDYOU’LL-MISS-IT IN THE WALL’

Snacks and beers at Perditempoteca

NAPLES Kestè

Via S. Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli, 27 If you love alfresco drinking, this is unmissable. Relax in the elevated piazza above the main drag and easily enjoy a sesh. The bar’s motto is “solo spina” which translates to “only on tap” – perfect. Check out their grande piatto of meats and cheese – there was also an 8% brew called Gasoline which might be a fun experiment to try!

ROME Drink Art

Piazza del Fico 23/24, Ponte Quarter There were no Italian beers on tap here on our visit, just in bottles. However, the vibe is good enough to make you want to stay. It’s the best kind of dingy with good music from reggae to neo-disco. They also have art classes on Thursday nights so you can paint and drink! Head to Da Baffetto for pizza afterwards to soak up your beers.

Wait in line if you have to – I beg you.

Via Dante Alighieri 10r, Dante Quarter A blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hole in the wall, Il Vinile is a ‘Caffe Art Bar’ with vinyl records on the wall and good retro music to drink to. Italian beer on tap includes Forst 5% or Nonfiltrato 5% (unfiltered).

Enjoy inside or outside in the laneway like a true Italian drinking in the street. Line up outside popular eatery All’antico Vinaio before 10.30pm for a late-night snack.

Le Murate

Piazza delle Murate, Santa Croce This bar sits within a quadrangle and hosts apericena each night. It’s a 15-20-minute walk from central Florence so it’s a venue you might not accidentally stumble upon as a tourist. Tuscan-style roast pork and salads abound – pay €8 for unlimited buffet access plus one drink, then order more drinks after!

One thing to keep in mind in Italy is that their drinking and dining hours start much later than in Australia. A lot of places don’t start opening until 6pm or later, and everyone kicks on late into the night.

Touristy bars are open all day but to live like a real local, have a siesta and meet everyone at 8pm. I mean, that’s the life, right? Salute!

Sophie Evans is a freelance writer and editor studying at Swinburne University. linkedin.com/in/ sophie-evans1 Illustration by Stephen Fasciale

PINTS IN PARIS

LUCY HAMILTON TAKES US ON A TASTY TOUR OF THE CITY OF ROMANCE

P

aris is probably not the most obvious craft beer destination. Mainstream lagers like Kronenbourg 1664 and Stella are everywhere, and if you have a hankering to hang out with backpackers there are plenty of Guinness bars in the Les Halles area. The French craft beer scene, however, has been taking off in the last few years – there is even a Paris Beer Week festival (check out parisbeerweek.fr)!

New venues are popping up and there are some interesting creative brewers and lively bars to explore.

delighted to discuss French breweries and suggest the best places to try. They highly recommended Mont Saleve Brewery (although all of us agreed that this terrific old-school brewer took a wrong turn with the bergamot experiment – toilet lollies and beer should not mix). Another brewery to check out is Gallia – the big breweries are hovering to buy out this gem. My favourite beer here was Gallia’s Zone Libre, a blueberry Berliner Weisse jam-packed with fruity flavour (Gallia also has a tap room in the north of Paris).

But first, some Paris pub crawl prep: • Get out the old scooter or skateboard from Mum’s garage to get your skills in shape for using the electric scooters for hire scattered around Paris.

You can even take two people on one scooter so you can have a designated driver!

• Learn the term ‘galopin’, which means a half-measure. This handy little glass allows you to taste two beers instead of a single bigger glass – good for working your way through the list without crashing the scooter.

• “Brasserie” originally meant brewery, so your search for a restaurant might lead you to a brewery with pretty much no food, or a food cafe with generic beers. Good luck!

• Take care when taking out your phone to google “craft beer near me” as Paris is notorious for phone snatching.

HOPPY CORNER 34 Rue des Petits Carreaux

LA ROBE & LA MOUSSE 3 Rue Monsieur le Prince This is a great venue featuring French experimental beers in a comfortable setting.

It is one of three Fine Mousse venues, but the only one focused on local brews.

Jonathan and Phillippe behind the bar were

Equally good is the highly esteemed Hoppy Corner. Approach it down Rue Montorgueil where you can fill up on a mouthwatering array of cheese, bread, fruit and pastry. Make a stop at the Breizh Cafe which boasts a cellar of Breton cider as well as some of Paris’ best crepes. Hoppy Corner is worth hitting close to opening at 5pm when the bartenders still have time to talk.

It gets busy pretty soon after, with a lively and enthusiastic local clientele spilling out onto the footpath. They don’t serve snacks until 7pm and the smell of the glorious thick-cut chips frying up before then is going to distract you from the beer. We tried a very nice Russian Imperial Stout and an astounding Flanders Oud Bruin from Belgium’s Brouwerij ’t Verzet, flavoured with oak leaves.

PANAME BREWING COMPANY 41 bis Quai de la Loire Paname Brewing Company is an excellent venue for a sunny day. It’s a popular brewery and serves a large range of food. The biggest attraction is the location with a large deck overlooking the Canal de l’Ourcq. The beers were solidly enjoyable without hitting the experimental heights found at the other two venues. Apparently

the Brexiteer IPA is one of the best, but that tap had just kicked when we visited.

The former brewery around the corner has recently become an extensive beer bottle shop with four taps and an enthusiastic local community. Ah! la Pompe à Biere is a jaunty venue to find a wide range of French/Belgian and European beers, a few Americans and even a lonely Coopers.

La Fine Mousse (6 Avenue Jean Aicard) has two venues opposite each other. One is the bar which opens at 5pm and offers a few snacks. The beer range is more northern European but has some beers from the US. I was lucky enough to have a Rose de Gambrinus from Cantillon on tap. The restaurant opposite, which opens at 7pm, is famous for its beer-matching cuisine.

Nearby is the little brewery Maison BapBap (79 Rue Saint-Maur), which offers a small selection of its own beer. Hop Malt Market is an impressive beer bottle shop only a couple of doors away. Salut!

MILTON MAGIC SALTY OTTON DISCOVERS THE JOYS OF THIS BEER-RICH BRISBANE HOOD

AETHER BREWING 35 Railway Terrace, Milton In the shadow of the XXXX brewery, next to Milton station, sits Aether Brewing.

There are no Milton Mangoes served here.

A thoughtfully designed venue with a front window bench that we inhabited for the next three days. Having tried all their beers, the standout was the Dryad-Pèt-Nat Sour.

Made with riesling juice, it had a delicate acidic, sour finish with a fruity edge.

Pairing a schooner with a pony of Aether’s Ginger Beerd was perfect. The ginger cut through the sharpness of the riesling.

Witching Hour Berliner Weisse was a stunning dark blue, almost deep purple colour. The acidity allowed it to zing over the palate with its effervescent carbonation. I’d like to give a shoutout to our bartender Josh. He made us feel so welcome, answered all the questions and when he couldn’t he contacted the brewer at 9pm at night. Josh, thank you.

Solid 9/10. I think it was the window seat and this was our last stop on the way home. And that Dryad-Pèt-Nat Sour, I could drink you forever.

‘EVEN A GREASED UP PIGLET COULDN’T HAVE GOTTEN IN THERE.’ MALECÓN RUM BAR AND MILTON RUM DISTILLERY 1/47 Castlemaine Street, Milton Now, we all know Queensland is known for one rum. Do I have to even mention the name? We stumbled into this amazing little speakeasy opposite the hallowed grounds of Lang Park (Suncorp Stadium) and had the best rum of our lives. Distilled on premise this spiced dark sugarcane rum is subtle and sophisticated. So much so I drank it neat with a squeeze of lime.

We were lucky enough to pull up a pew next to the junior distiller, Dave, who invited us to try an experimental aperitif

they were working on – The Dirty Bird (named after the ibis), made from recycled organic ingredients.

From citrus rinds to olive juice to goodness knows what else, should have conjured up thoughts of packing down bars but, no. It is one of the most delicate spirits I have ever had.

Both these spirits are best enjoyed any time but after a Queensland State of Origin defeat would be best.

8/10 points only lost because we couldn’t buy a bottle (or 10) of Dirty Bird.

Newstead Brewing

Scratch Bar

Mongrel Bar

NEWSTEAD BREWING 67 Castlemaine Street, Milton Newstead Brewing’s second venue is a sprawling space with a bar in front of bright tanks and fermenters. One thing I love about Newstead is their dedication to the community and creating beers that fundraise for important causes.

Nineteen 09 Coastal Ale is a perfect example, with the proceeds going towards Queensland volunteer surf lifesavers.

After tasting a couple of beers, including a mushroom beer, I settled on the Transducer, a Sparkling Ale brewed for the Brisbane Powerhouse. Dan drank one of the Melbourne Shuffle Series - collaborations between Newstead Brewing and Melbourne breweries (the Melbourne Shuffle is a dance from the 1980s. Google it). I also tried a Blackberry Dunkelweizen, a classic dark wheat beer.

8/10 I love this place and I look forward to having a beer here pre and postgame.

SCRATCH BAR 8/1 Park Road, Milton The first time I encountered Scratch was the fateful Stone Roses gig. I remember trying to find it and no one knew what I was talking about. Now I reckon it would be one of Brisvegas’ most known venues.

When we visited it was the Weekend of Darkness dark beer festival. It was rammed. Even a greased up piglet couldn’t have gotten in there. The staff know beer and can answer nerdy questions.

MONGREL BAR 1/12 Park Rd, Milton Mongrel, from the moment we first found you, we fell in love. Welcomed with open

arms by Melbourne escapee, Ash. An approachable beer list, all independent.

My partner in crime settled on the Brouhaha Lager; I couldn’t go past the Sea Legs Brewing Dry-hopped Gose. There is an old school pool table, remember the ones with the net pockets. And there was a really eclectic mix of people there. From middle-aged suits, young hip kids (gosh I’m old) and everything in between. Ash spoilt us with Eddy Current Suppression Ring, Peep Tempel and many of my favourite Melbourne bands.

It was decided this is our Milton local.

9/10. No one can be perfect. Even me.

The thing I love about Brisvegas is that everyone is so normal. There is no pigeon-holing. People go and enjoy good booze and don’t have to make a song and dance about it. Or maybe this was just the magic of Milton. I really can’t recommend the suburb enough. Give it a burl.

Follow @saltyotton on instagram I would like to acknowledge the traditional owners of this land, the Wurundjeri people.

I am writing this article on your land.

Salty having a beer (Balter Strong Ale) with the greatest rugby league player of all time, the Emporor of Lang Park, Wally Lewis

I never thought I would say this.

I love Brisbane. Phew. I feel a huge weight lifted off my shoulders.

It all began seven years ago when I saw the Stone Roses at the Riverstage. What a time to be alive! My second experience was winning a Pink Boots Scholarships to the Craft Brewers Conference, also a good time. This year it was the Mikkeller dinner at Saccharomyces Bar for my birthday. Yeah, it is everything you’re thinking it was. The sun was out.

Brisbane was digging in its claws.

This time I had the pleasure of staying in Milton. It was surprising how many amazing venues there are within walking distance. So, I thought I’d share them with you.

GET KRAFTY IN

KYRGYZSTAN MICHAEL HORN DISCOVERS A CRAFT BEER OUTPOST IN FAR-FLUNG CENTRAL ASIA

E

arlier this year, I was possessed by an undeniable need to try kumis, a sour fermented horse milk drink popular in the Central Asian state of Kyrgyzstan.

I’m sure you know the feeling. The desire arose mostly out of a literary/alcoholic project I’ve been pursuing for the past five years, for which I am drinking everything mentioned in the novels of Thomas Pynchon. It’s a fun time!

In pursuit of kumis, I found myself on a flight from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. Backpack-laden Australians being ubiquitous in every corner of the world, I should not have been surprised to meet my armrest mate, Dave from Brunswick. By the time we alighted in the alternately pastoral/Soviet outskirts of Bishkek, we had uncovered shared interests not just in far-flung Central Asian states, but in fermented beverages of all kinds.

Thanks to what I pretended was a lucky coincidence but was actually the careful planning of an irredeemable beer nerd, my hostel was more or less directly across the road from Save the Ales, a local brewpub.

After brief pit-stops to assure various hostel staff that yes we really were from Australia like with the kangaroos, Dave and I met back at Save the Ales.

Opened in 2016, Save the Ales is Kyrgyzstan’s first (and as far as I can tell, pretty much still only) craft brewery. The brewpub is owned and run by two local women, Aida Musulmankulova and Arzu Kurbanova. It’s in a pretty posh-feeling part of Bishkek, close to a row of leafy squares and the German embassy. The place

Above: A centuries-old tradition of hunting with trained golden eagles continues among a small number of devoted hunters known as berkutchi.

Middle: The bartender at Save The Ales craft brewery.

Top right: Hiking into the Tien Shan mountains.

Far right: I found this woman selling local honey and fermented horse milk by the highway in Jeti Oguz. ‘Is good’ she told me cheerfully of the horse milk.

was a little tricky to find, hidden down an alley, but that only made we Melbournites feel more at home. On the quiet Tuesday night we visited, the clientele started out pretty evenly mixed between locals and tourists, with the percentage of European backpackers rising steadily as the evening progressed and the locals went home to bed.

FINDING SOUR FRUIT BEERS AND JUICY IPAS THOUSANDS OF KILOMETRES FROM THE NEAREST HOP FIELD OR HYPE BREWERY WAS PRETTY INCREDIBLE On tap was an impressively modern range of beers – including a hazy IPA and a tart raspberry/cherry/strawberry beer. The tart berry beer was just labelled “fruit beer” but tasted like a heavily fruited Berliner Weisse, nicely sour, delightfully juicy. The IPA was the standout, the best beer I had anywhere in Central Asia, with the low bitterness, soft mouthfeel, and fruit salad hop profile characteristic of on-trend IPAs the world over. Its stonefruit/citrus/berry character particularly suggested Mosaic hops to me.

Unfortunately, the owner-brewers were not around, and the aggressively bowl-cut bartender didn’t seem too interested in talking to strange tourists about Kyrgyz hop contracts. He did tell me that all the brewing occurred onsite, but the stainless was hidden away in a basement.

The standard was not universally excellent, with some of the beers verging more into

your dodgy uncle’s homebrew territory.

The pale ale was laden with buttery diacetyl; the brown looked like a pint of the Yarra (another taste of home). But these stumbles just served as reminders of how remarkable it was to be drinking these beers in Kyrgyzstan. Outside of Save the Ales, vodka and the (tasty) local cognac were the predominant drinking options, and beer was exclusively local or Russian lager.

Finding sour fruit beers and juicy IPAs in that context, thousands of kilometres from the nearest hop field or hype brewery, was pretty incredible.

Nor was the local culture completely absent from the Save the Ales taproom. A stout that appeared to be on tap was instead served to me from an empty plastic water bottle. I was a bit bemused at the time, but I later found that reusing bottles to sell your family produce seems to be a pretty entrenched Kyrgyz tradition. A few days later, I found a woman selling kumis by a highway near the Kazakh border. It too was in old water bottles. Flavourwise, it was fizzy, cheesy, unnervingly meaty, woodoven smoky, lightly alcoholic, and really pretty sour. Challenging drinking … at least the beer was nice!

Perhaps Save the Ales can make a beery riff on kumis to help my palate adjust. Goodbye milkshake IPA, hello smoky sour milky lactose Lichtenhainer. Served straight from old water bottles of course. Kyrgyzstan’s place on the craft beer map will be secured.

Follow Michael’s adventures in literature and liquids at drunkpynchon.com

Paul looking for craft beer at Machu Picchu

PERU’S

NEW WAVE FROM LIMA TO THE ANDES, PAUL KRISTOFF EXPLORES CRAFT BREWS IN THIS FASCINATING SOUTH AMERICAN COUNTRY Until relatively recently, craft beer lovers who visited Peru had little to get excited about. There was not much available beyond ubiquitous Backus-owned commercial lagers like Cusqueña, Pilsen and Cristal – Backus being owned by beverage giant AB InBev. While commercial lagers

‘NATIVE PERUVIAN FRUITS AND INGREDIENTS ARE BEING USED TO CREATE SOME TRULY UNIQUE BEERS’ still make up the lion’s share of Peru’s beer market, recent years have seen an explosion of craft options pop up across the country.

What’s most exciting about the Peruvian craft beer scene is that there are a lot of local breweries making not only great examples of core range styles, but also experimental beers. Sours and hazy IPAs

are being brewed and native Peruvian fruits and ingredients are being used in the brewing process to create some truly unique beers with flavours you won’t find elsewhere in the world.

Nuevo Mundo in Lima (San Lorenzo 1227, Surquillo) creates beers inspired by Peru’s diverse regions, while Barbarian incorporate native fruits and ingredients from the Amazon into some of their beers to create some truly unique brews (Cervecería Barbarian was snapped up by AB InBev’s growth and innovation group ZX Ventures in August this year).

Lúpulo Peruvian Draft Bar (Av Jose Larco 413-421, Miraflores) in Lima places the focus squarely on Peruvian beers across its impressive 21 taps, such as the highly regarded beers from brewer Megan Garrity’s Greenga Brewing.

It’s not just Lima where craft beer is taking off either. Visitors exploring the Inca trail can find Nuevo Mundo’s draught bar

Cervecería Zenith in the heart of Cusco (Av. Collasuyo 3407) run by Aussie expat Zac Lanham, and Cholos (Calle Palacio 110), a pub with 20 rotating taps from breweries across Peru, including many hard-to-find brews. Even in the outskirts of Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, you can find craft beer – Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado (Paradero Puente Pachar) brew some of the best beers in the country.

The craft beer scene in Peru is going from strength to strength, and the places I’ve mentioned are just a few that are brewing and serving great beer. Peru’s history, culture and food are all worth visiting the country for, and when you add craft beer to the mix, there’s only one thing left to do – book that flight.

Paul Kristoff is one-third of craft beer podcast Brunswick Beer Collective, and creator of The City Lane food, travel and culture website thecitylane.com

SH*T MY MUM SAYS ABOUT CRAFT BEER SILVIA DAY CHALLENGES HER DISLIKE OF IPAS AT FIXATION BREWERY’S INCUBATOR TAPROOM

FROTH: TRAVEL Hmm, travel! I’ve done a lot of that & a lot of beer reviews in the process.

Maybe I’ll give it a miss this time & leave it to the editor & other beer writers.

There was a very interesting story about beer & travel in the news recently. In 1970, a guy in Melbourne found a bottle of beer from a Glasgow brewery in a shipwreck near Geelong.

He kept it for 40 years & last year, he personally returned it to the brewery it came from. It was made in 1868 & was still intact! A 150-year-old bottle of beer! The ship sank because the captain was drunk!!! Makes sense I guess! At least he didn’t drink all the beer! Beat that travel story!

If you want to travel for beer purposes, I guess Germany is the place to go. Apparently Angela Merkel offers tax credits, cheaper loans, subsidies etc to beer companies that reduce their carbon footprints.

A 500-year-old Bavarian brewery founded by Catholic bishops in 1492 has reduced its carbon footprint by 40% over the past 2 decades! Many other breweries in Germany are also doing this now, as are breweries in other countries, so you may need to keep travelling!

Meanwhile, I shall review some local beers! Last month, Froth was launched at Fixation Brewery in Smith St, Collingwood. As it was a recent arrival in this area, I wanted to check it out, although I was a bit concerned with their fixation on IPAs. Still, one must give it a go!

HOP TRIAL 5.6% EXPERIMENTAL IPA Pale, cloudy, smells herby & hoppy.

Tastes a bit sour, but also quite hoppy.

Given the name, fair enough. I don’t like it much.

HOP TINGLE 6.5% SOUR IPA It is really pale & clear. Smells like a spanakopita filling! What herbs are used, or is it spinach & onion? It tastes like a sour spanakopita without the filo pastry! Weird as, but not bad really as it’s not hoppy!

OBSESSION 4.6% Clear & pale with a sweet citrusy smell which is repeated in the taste.

Where’s the IPA hoppiness? (Not that I want it!) It even tasted a bit like toffee!

PIECE OF CAKE 6.1% Pale & cloudy. The smell is confusing the taste or vice versa, because this one smells &/or tastes like a cake with loads of icing! Can’t get my head around the fact that it is a beer I am drinking & not a cake I am eating!

Strange mix of tastes. One of those

chocolate cakes with orange peel? Or more like a tiramisu? Or back to thick icing? Maybe I’ve been hypnotised to like IPAs. I shall leave Fixation while I’m ahead! I managed to dodge the real IPA bullets somehow. Not that I expected these peculiar flavours!

Still, you could save cooking time by having the spanakopita followed by the cake!

I will do some beers from a brewery we accidentally came across while we were travelling to Bright. There was a strange little village called Dinner Plain along the way. All the houses look the same. I guess many places do, but this looked like some dystopian futuristic TV show, made in the 1960s. Whatever! It was interesting & it had a brewery called Blizzard. It’s at an altitude of 1550 metres, so many of the beers have a reference to such locations.

1550 LAGER 4.2% Pale, a bit fizzy & a tiny bit cloudy.

A faint nondescript smell, and a sweet taste, like grapes! No hops, good, not beery!

BLADE RUNNER BELGIAN PALE 6.4% A clear, golden mahogany colour, not fizzy, & has a yeasty smell.

Tastes like a thick lozenge, sweet, with a bitterness at the end.

SUMMIT STOUT 6.5% Pitch black! Solid, not see-through at all. Smells a bit chocolatey. Tastes thick & a bit like a chocolate-covered licorice. Aren’t they called Bullets?

Not as chocolatey as I’d like, but not hoppy, so that’s a plus!

They have lots more, but I think I’ve done enough beers for now.

Whether you travel far, far away, or to a country village, or to an inner suburban brewery, there’s always lots to discover & learn. It may be the weird craft beers that keep evolving, or the fantastic labels, or the wonderful people involved in the brewing & selling of them, it’s worth the travel!

At Fixation doing my job

Fixation brewer Sam Dinner Plain

Fixation’s Morris & Phoebe

‘it tastes like spankopita’

Georgia from Blizzard Brewing

Ingredients

AUNTY FRIDA’S KITCHEN

BY FRIDA ROWE

EVER SO YUMMY BEER COOKIES

Frida Rowe creates smashable beer cookies

200ml beer (I used Matso’s Mango Beer) 500ml oil (yes, it’s a lot, but just forget about calories this time) 1kg plain flour 15g baking powder 6 Tbsp cream of wheat (Farina) 12 tsp jam – ½ teaspoon per cookie (I used apricot, Koni* uses Rosehip) Method Makes 24 cookies

Syrup 1 lemon or lime (I used lime) 800ml water 1kg sugar

It hard’sto stop at one!

To make the syrup, zest the lime/lemon and squeeze the juice. Put zest, juice, water and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Cook for about 20 minutes to reduce and thicken.

To make the dough, mix the flour, baking powder, cream of wheat, beer and oil together to create a nice soft dough. Roll a ball the size of a walnut and form it into a little bowl shape. Put half a teaspoon of jam into it and close it up. Roll into a ball, pat it into a flattish shape and pop on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Bake at 200C (conventional oven) for about 23 minutes, or until nice and golden.

As soon as the cookies come out of the oven, dip them in the syrup while they are still hot, then roll in coconut. That’s it! Let them cool and enjoy. I’m warning you, it’s hard to stop at one … I can’t wait to make these little babies again. *The recipe for these ridiculously delicious beer cookies were shared by fellow Macedonian cook, Koni, from Virginia, USA, originally from Stip, Macedonia. Cheers Koni.

Find out more at auntyfridaskitchen.com

For the price of a pint,

give a brand new toy to a refugee or asylum seeker child this Christmas

Many of these children haven’t received toys since arriving in Australia.

Can you help us to change that? All donations are tax deductible.

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HOME BREW RECIPE

BISCUIT BLONDE ALE 19L batch, OG 1.048, 4.6% ABV, 28 IBUish

Mash for 90 mins at 66.7C, 10 mins at mash out.

ALEXANDER LEVI FROM THE HOP + GRAIN BREW STORE SHARES HIS FAVOURITE RECIPES Too often is there a need for a ‘go-to’ recipe for a home brewer.

It may be a Pale Ale, IPA or Stout. As we drink towards the hotter days, consider adding a Blonde Ale to that go-to list – you’ll thank us later!

Blonde Ales can flex light to crunchy malt character and bold or balanced hop happiness. This recipe teams a characterful English yeast strain and the satisfyingly subtle, yet zingy and zesty, German hop Saphir.

Rounding out this whole quenching package is the addition of biscuit

malt, it sends a mesmerising and petite malty-Anzac-biscuity dry crunch across your palate: “You beauty!”, you scream!

Having this little satiating beer in your go-to list this summer means you can throw at it whatever hops or yeast you like, it’s versatile and just fun!

This iteration has a light passionfruit and sleepytime tea aroma, bold stone fruit flavour chased by a stallion of malty biscuity dryness.

Have a pleasant day whilst sipping this boisterous ale.

1.8kg Pilsner Malt 1.4 Maris Otter .400g Vienna .280g Biscuit Malt .200g Carapils .200g Honey Malt Boil for 75 mins.

Add 10g Magnum at 60mins Add 22g Saphir at 25mins Add 22g Saphir in Whirlpool.

Aerate for 90 seconds and pitch Imperial A38 Juice (this strain adds berry and apricot flavours ... sounds delicious right?)

Ferment for 10 days at 17C. Chill and lager for 5 days.

Package and enjoy. www.thehopandgrain.com.au

URBAN APA AMERICAN PALE ALE

Our brewer's take on this popular style, this beer includes a mash-up of fruity American hops paired with a classic English ale yeast that finishes clean but still brings out just enough of the hop aroma and flavour. Moderately bitter, with an inviting aroma of citrus, mango, passionfruit and pine, supported well by a strong backbone of delicious New Zealand malts. Pale, balanced and refreshing. @urbanalleybrewery | urbanalley.com.au

E + ROTH G A N P U F F NEWS

Froth launches new podcast Team Froth has bravely ventured into a new medium with the launch of a new podcast called Frothcast! Available where all good podcasts are found (including Spotify and Apple), Frothcast features chats with editor Emily, designer Clint and a cast of Frothy friends including Emily’s famous beer-reviewing Mum. Look up Frothcast today and get some Froth in your ears!

Froth and Deeds brew spooky Halloween beer

Froth has teamed up with Deeds Brewing to create a Pumpkin Spiced Porter in time for Halloween. With brewing being a particularly magical occupation, we tried to come up with a name that played into the mystical Halloween aspect. The result: Resting Witch Face, launching November 2 at Carwyn Cellars and available on tap and in cans at various locations!

ACROSS

1. 1-down’s 6. Brand of

is Denver (7) famous NZ beer, made

by DB Breweries (3) 7. David Walsh of MONA’s brewery, _ Brew (3) 8. Southern Japanese prefecture that is home to Orion beer (7) 10. English Pale Ale (1.1.1.)

11. Ski resort area of 1-down (5) 13. Abbotsford brewers who recently opened a large brewery and bar in 19-across, Moon _ (3) 16. Major mountain range in western North America (7) 17. Sierra Nevada Brewery made this style famous, Pale _ (3) 18. Australian state where Van Dieman Brewing is located (abbrev) (3) 19. Melbourne suburb that is home to 3 Ravens, Tallboy and Moose, and now 13-across (7)

FAMOUS FROTH BEER QUIZ 1 True or False. A man charged by police for drink driving actually had a bizarre medical condition that caused his stomach to brew beer.

2 Which new brewery opening up in NSW this month has a name that translates to ‘holy’?

3 Which Aussie band is Balter’s latest beer named after?

4 Which Kiwi brewery was recently named best brewery in the Brewers Guild of New Zealand Awards?

5 Which Australian beer publication was voted 4th most popular in the latest annual Beer Cartel Craft Beer Survey?

6 Which Australian brewery was voted Australia’s best brewery in the same survey?

7 Braeside Brewing Company is planning to open in which Melbourne suburb?

8 Which WA brewery released a beer called Fauxdenbach, to mimic Belgian brewery Rodenbach’s famous Flemish red ale?

9 Which dark beer style is also the name of the person who might carry your bags in a hotel?

10 Which easy-drinking German beer style comes from the city of Cologne?

CRAFTY COMIC Crafty Comic by Michael Alesich / @ironoak

FROTHWORD

By Oliver Hayes DOWN

1. State in the western USA known for the 16-across (8) 2. Known as the City of Lights (5) 3. Residents of the Lone Star State (6) 4. Capital of Peru (4) 5. Brewery headquartered in Escondido, California, USA (5) 9. South Asian country, home to Murree beer (8) 12. A holiday abroad is often described as a great _ (6) 14. Material for most beverage receptacles (5) 15. Cheap Aldi lager (5) 16. Cambodian tourist town near Angkor Wat, Siem _ (4)

Guess the brewery and beer above for your chance to win a guide to Melbourne’s best craft beer destinations, Melbourne: The Craft Beer Bar Guide. Email your answer to giveaways@frothbeer.com.

Last month’s Crafty Comic answer was CoConspirators Brewing Co – The Editor. Congratulations to our winner, Damian Fung!

Winners will be notified by email & announced in next month’s Froth.

CODED COLD ONES with @speculatype Crack resident type expert Speculatype’s code below to find the brewery and beer name of one of our favourite brews.

Frothword Solutions October ACROSS 1. Hildegard; 5. Smoke; 6. Scull; 7. Gush; 9. Tots; 12. Shot; 15. Keg; 18. Stone and Wood; 19. Order; 20. Hydration DOWN 1. Hemings; 2. Dregs; 3. Anchor; 4. Ale; 6. SST; 10. Shebeen; 11. Downed; 13. Toe; 14. Adopt; 16. RSA Beer Quiz Answers: 1 TRUE 2 Sanctus Brewing Co 3 AC/DC (the beer is an IPA called Hazy DC) 4 Liberty Brewing 5 Froth (!) 6 Balter 7 Mordialloc 8 Innate Brewing 9 Porter 10 Kölsch

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