Texas Coast large Experience Coffee Table Book by Sherman Studios

Experience

TEXAS COAST

Experience

TEXAS COAST

Discovering The Cities, Towns And Communities In The Coastal Bend Of Texas Stories Marie Cook

Publisher Thomas R. Meinhausen Graphics Fran Sherman & Eric Null Grunwald Printing Corpus Christi Covers Diane Loyd

Copyright 速 2015 by Texas Now Publishing P.O. Box 2284 Rockport, Texas 78381 tom@texnowmag.com Manufactured in United States All rights reserved Unless noted otherwise, Illustrations and historical photographs are courtesy of Bethel Lutheran Church, Calhoun County Museum, Galveston Historical Foundation, Kenedy Ranch Museum, King Ranch Museum and Matagorda County Museum

Inside 2

16 20

24 28

A Place with a Past, Matagorda County

The Beaches of Port Lavaca and Calhoun County Journey of the Cranes of Aransas County Fulton Mansion, the Home Built by George The Kenedy South Texas Ranching Empire, Sarita Great Times in the Great Outdoors, Matagorda Style A Palacios Treasure, Luther Hotel

40 46 50

54 58

King Ranch Museum of Kingsville Birding in Port Lavaca and Calhoun County History of Blessing of Matagorda County The Town of Fulton, a Seaside Oasis Galveston, the Golden City Lamar, a Place of Quite Reflection A Texas Mystery Mansion of Berclair

62 66

74 78

82 86

Come to the Wild Horse Desert, Kingsville Bay City Historic Homes A Lottery Builds a Town, Aransas Pass Historic Fulton Treasure & Miss Alene Remembrance of a Ferry Boat Crossing, Port A Historic Main Street Theater of Port Lavaca A City That Feeds the Senses, Portland

90 94 98

102 106

110 114

Art Car and the Nave Museum of Victoria A Family Vacation of Fun and Discovery, Matagorda County Memories of the Sandollar, Fulton Ingleside, Hearth of the Coastal Bend Bethel Lutheran Church of Lyford Port Lavaca, City of Heroes The Sea Turtles of South Padre

Forward Texas Coast Experience is a collection of stories I’ve written over the past 3 years about the people, places and history I’ve discovered in my travels throughout the Coastal Bend. A 5th generation Texan, I was amazed that having lived here my entire life I knew so little about the Texas coastal areas. That’s not saying I never went to the coast, because my family has either been going to Galveston, Lamar, Fulton or Port Aransas since I was 5 years old. It was actually looking through an Arizona native’s eyes to see and experience what had been in front of me all along. Traveling throughout the region and covering sometimes as much as 5,000 miles in a month, it’s hard not to get to know the land and the people. History has been a passion of mine since grade school and I fell in love with the history of the cities and communities I visited. Texas Coast Experience is a unique collection of the stories of these cities and communities. My sincere wish is that you enjoy reading it as much as I did writing it and take your own journey to experience what the Texas Coast is truly about.

Acknowledgement There are several people that who without their assistance this book would not have come together. Thomas Meinhausen, the brain of Texas Coast Experience. Without his efforts in marketing, his drive and determination, this book would never have been written; Russell Cain for his continuous support and help, who was instrumental in the publication; a special thanks to John Grunwald, Gabe Gonzalez and the rest of the Grunwald Printing team, for always going out of their way, and that extra mile, consistently providing a quality finished product; Fran Sherman for the beautiful job she did on graphic design and layout; my family for always believing in me and supporting my efforts; to those that helped to sponsor this book we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thank you enough for your vote of confidence, which include Mitch Thames, Scotty Jones, Bob Turner, Aven Rhoades, Toni Nagel, Diane Lyod, Homero Vera, Leo Alarcon, Jimmy Kendrick, Sylvia Carrillo, Jack Findley, Magdilena Segura Kuykendall, Ann Harithas, Lu Cinda Rivera, Elva Galvan; and finally those wonderful folks of all the cities, towns and communities Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve discovered along my travels, who opened their homes and their hearts to me. Without you all there would be nothing to write about.

Dedicat ion This book is dedicated in memory of my father, Daniel John Cook, Jr. Thanks Dad for giving me a love for the coast, your genes for writing and your favorite typewriter, which allowed me to share so much with you as I was growing up. =

A Place With A Past M ATA G O R D A C O U N T Y

“

Thousands of years ago, as early as 10,000 B.C, people were living off the bounty of the Matagorda land and sea. By the time European explorers arrived there in the 1600s, the area was home to the Karankawa Indians, a tribe of powerful swimmers and runners, excellent marksmen and formidable fighters. The Karankawa were fierce-looking people, many of whom stood over six feet tall and adorned themselves with lip and nipple piercings and dramatic tattoos. They smeared themselves with alligator or shark grease to repel insects, and were believed to practice ritual cannibalism against their enemies. Yet they were known to exhibit deep tenderness as well, as the first Spanish explorer in the region, Antonio Nu–ez Cabeza de Vaca reported.

“He described a scene when, shipwrecked and bereft at the loss of many of his companions who had perished at sea, the tribesmen sat on the shore with him and wept. “But well they might have wept for themselves. For all his benign intentions, Cabeza de Vaca’s landing presaged the decline and eventual obliteration of the Karankawas. The tribe resisted assimilation and, by the 1850s, the last ragged band of them was spotted in Tamaulipas, Mexico, driven far from the Texas shores they’d called home. They were never seen again.

“

DAVID SWICKHEIMER

The County of Matagorda derived its name from the canebrakes that formerly lined the shore. The word “Matagorda” is Spanish and translated means “thick brush”. Crossed by the mighty Colorado River, from north to south, the county extends across 1,612 square miles. Matagorda Peninsula is a narrow barrier island formed less than 5,000 years ago. A section of the peninsula runs northeast and southwest from the mouth of Caney Creek in the eastern part of the county to Pass Cavallo on the west. The peninsula protects Matagorda Bay and is cut in half by the Colorado River channel twentyfour miles from the pass. The major watercourses running through the county are Caney, Peach, Peyton’s, Turtle, Cash’s, and Big and Little Boggy creeks, the Trespalacios and Colorado rivers, Live Oak and Linville bayous, and Little Robbins Slough. The county seat of Matagorda County, Bay City, was founded in 1894. The City was named for the chosen site between the rich dirt of the bottomlands of the Colorado River and Caney Creek, and

SWICK

HEIMER

FAMILY

NS RICE WAGO

ET CR. 1904

ON 7TH STRE

HAMILT ON BUIL

DING N OF SQU ORTH SIDE ARE CA . 1906

from the vast open land called Bay Prairie. David Swickheimer, a mining millionaire, joined with G. W. Magill, Nicholas King of Quincy, Illinois and N. M. Vogelsang, editor of the Goliad Guard, forming the Bay City Town Company. The company’s aim was to promote the development of a new town near the center of Matagorda County. This group of men knew that the San Antonio and Gulf Shore Railway were planning a route through the middle of the county. They realized the disadvantage of having to travel so far to the existing county seat near the coast and successfully promoted transferring the county government to the new town of Bay City. David Swickheimer or “Dave” as he liked to be known was born in 1853 near Dover, Ohio. The oldest son of eight children his parents were German immigrants, John Thomas and Anna Mary Swickheimer. Dave grew up on the family farm and was educated in a small rural school. When he left home to seek his fortune, he promised to return and build his parents a large house in town.

Around 1877 Dave traveled to Colorado and struggled to develop a mining claim. In order to continue mining he was forced to take additional jobs hauling freight, serving as sheriff (he was elected in 1884 but had resigned by 1886-1887), and working as a saloonkeeper. His wife, Laura, took in boarders and insisted that Dave keep working the claim. When Laura won $5,000 in the Louisiana lottery, this windfall was put into the mine. In 1886, the prize money was down to less than $100 when a vein of almost pure silver was reached. Dave Swickheimer had struck it rich and had become a millionaire. Shortly after, David and Laura Swickheimer were divorced. Dave had a partner named George S. Barlow who owned a one-half interest in the mine. Mr. Barlow sold his interest to Dave in 1890, and only one year later, Dave Swickheimer sold his silver mine for $1.25 million dollars.

Upon marrying his second wife, Annie Shear in 1896, Dave, Annie and her son, Jimmy moved to Denver, Colorado. The “Father of Bay City”, David Swickheimer would remain in Denver until his death on February 5, 1920. Of all Dave Swickheimer’s many ventures and developments his most successful venture of them all was the founding of Bay City in Matagorda County. Today Bay City is flourishing and undergoing an e c o n o m i c b o o m o f e p ic proportions! ✯

D NWOO COTTO H IT W ES ACHIN RICE M K IC M OR G MCC SHOWIN I E U EN 6 OM AV CA. 189 EST FR REGROUND W G IN LOOK E IN FO BRIDG CREEK

After making his fortune and fulfilling his promise made to his parents of a large house in the city, Dave Swickheimer came to Texas, where he invested a large amount of his money. In the early 1890s he had developed Bay City, as well as properties located in Bee, Goliad and Aransas counties. He was instrumental in organizing the Swickheimer Ranch in 1891, which existed until the early 1990s. Dave was also instrumental in the development of Fannin located in Goliad County, a flourishing town located along the Southern Pacific line, and in the founding of Quincy in Bee County. He also developed property in Rockport in Aransas County.

T he Beaches of Port Lavaca and Calhoun County MAGNOLIA, BEACH

hen you close your eyes and imagine a coastline, what do you see? Perhaps you see beaches - large dunes, vast expanses of sand and surf, the smell of coconut and salt air riding the wind as the rows of sunworshipers, surfers, and visitors enjoy. This is the coastline of my youth.

SEADRIFT, TEXA

Yet on this trip to discover the coast of Calhoun County, my concept and knowledge of the Texas Coast has been forever expanded. There are those who envision the quiet camaraderie of piers, hooks, bait, and catching “the big one.” Still, others go to contemplate, to meditate, to walk, or just find peace in nature. Many marvel at the birds and varied wildlife and others who love the water, but would rather avoid the sand. Families come for time spent together, a SWAN POIN T safe place where one can learn and teach without effort and play at any age. The adventurous explore by various means, and the historians connect with the explorers of long ago and the legacies they left upon these shores. The coastline of Texas, which spans some 600 miles, offers limitless opportunities to satisfy one’s

IND

ABANA

ACH C

A BE IANOL

unique coastal experience including a rich and fascinating history, and if you’re lucky, you too will come away with a broader, richer vision. The coastline of Calhoun County, Texas delivers a unique coastal experience not to be missed! During my travels, the first stop was Seadrift, Texas. It is the only town positioned on the San Antonio bay into which the Guadalupe River feeds. This location serves as the base and access point to the inland bay system. Known as “The Last Fishing Frontier,” Seadrift is an angler’s dream. Whether by boat, wade, or drift fishing, the trout, redfish, and flounder are plentiful. With a population of approximately 1500 people, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. Since 1963, Seadrift has served as the finish line to the annual Texas Water Safari, known to some as the “world’s toughest canoe race.” Participants begin in the San Marcos River and canoe

OLA B

INDIAN

IC SITE

ISTOR

ND H ACH A

RCH AND

HING PO

ND, FIS BAIT STA

through 260 miles of rivers and bays ending in Seadrift!

LA INDIANO ANT R U A T RES

I visited Swan Point in Seadrift, INDIANO LA BAIT STAND, also known as R. W. “Bill” FISHING PORCH A ND REST Sanders Memorial Park. This AURANT is a coastal park and its natural beauty is enhanced by facilities for fishing, picnicking, windsurfing as well as available 1875, Indianola was a growing concern as fresh water and access for the mobility impaired. a frontier seaport town with all the trapI have developed a “history hobby” since I’ve pings of a community--schools, churches, lived long enough to have one, but Indianola theaters and more. In September of 1875 a Beach And Historic Site was a rare occasion for hurricane devastated the town and rebuilding me to leave the book, walk the ground, gain per- lagged. In August 1886, another hurricane spective and imagine another time. René-Robert struck the area and completed the devastaCavelier, Sieur de La Salle, explored North Amer- tion. It was total and the end of the town of Indianola; yet as I stood looking at the ica and began a nearby settlement in 1685. huge statue of LaSalle and then toward the An Indian trading port from 1844-1875, Indiano- shore, I felt I was able to see a coastline la became a major seaport and a point of immi- close to what he saw. Indianola is considgration for Germans and Poles into the United ered Texas’ Queen of ghost towns today. States. Supplies for frontier forts, and even cam- I didn’t find any ghosts, but I did delight els were landed here by the Army as an experi- in the spirit of considering time and INDIA NOLA ment for their use in desert areas of the U.S. In linking with the past. B

AIT ST AND,

FISHIN

G POR

CH AN

D RES

TAUR A

PORT LAVACA

Indianola also features some great beach cabanas right by the water where you can take a moment to sit and veg or enjoy a picnic surrounded by the mystique and history in the air. If you forgot your picnic basket you can enjoy a great meal (I did) at Indianola Fishing Marina. Offering a varied menu of burgers, seafood, and some excellent onion rings, you can also throw your line into the water and potentially catch dinner.

IA BEA AGNOL

A short distance from Indianola, I discovered a quaint, romantic seaside community at Magnolia Beach. Relatively undiscovered, a rarity in coastal areas these days, such a community exists here. If imagining a coastal scene brings to mind peace, relaxation, bird watching, boating, fishing, and enjoying a pristine beach, Magnolia Beach is for you! Spending over one million dollars, an 8 mile long beach project was completed, and the results are impressive! One section features great amenities which actually enhance the natural beauty of the area, and provide for a family or group experience.

On this section of the beach no driving is allowed. If you have children, it’s a perfect place. With a playground nearby and a volleyball court, Magnolia beach

MAGN

OLIA

BEAC

delivers extraordinarily to this preference. Separated by pylons, another section of the beach is a beautifully unadorned expanse of glorious sand and water—no tables here unless you bring your own. Vehicles are allowed to drive and park on the beach and near the water. It is simply gorgeous! This area is meant for those who prefer, a fishing pole or a lawn chair and a bit of sunscreen—maybe a book. Facilities are very near, but in this area, the coastline itself plays the starring role! Magnolia Beach truly stole my heart! Our final destination on this coastal trek was Port Lavaca, the seat of Calhoun County! The town, originally named La Vaca (the cow) in 1841, was laid out a year later. The city is situated on a bluff 15 to 20 feet above the beautiful bay and is filled with history. Commission men from the east reportedly played a significant role in establishing Lavaca. They envisioned this town as an important shipping point for exporting raw materials and importing manufactured goods. Lavaca fulfilled this expectation as the busiest port on the adjoining Matagorda and Lavaca bays during the period of the Republic of Texas. Lighthouse Beach features white sands and the shoreline here has its own unique charm, as it curves and juts

PORT

O’CO

NNOR

out here and there. Driving is allowed on the beach, and there are covered tables and barbeque pits set back from the water with a wonderful children’s playground. Other amenities include a large covered pavilion, 4750 foot walking path and a section for camping in your RV. This section boasts 55 full hook-up sites, including cable TV, restroom facility, washers/ dryers and a recreation center for those enjoying the tropical comforts this site has to offer. Be sure and take a stroll on the 2200 foot board walk from the beach to the bird tower. The tower was made from recycled materials provided through bonds approved and paid for by the citizens of Port Lavaca and grants from the Formosa Environmental trust fund. At the time of its construction it was the world’s longest boardwalk made entirely of recycled plastic. The boardwalk is built out over the wetland, giving nature enthusiasts a fantastic view of many species of birds and other marine life. Lighthouse Beach has a great place for the little ones too. The Splash Park area is a flat surface of approximately 2700 square feet. The interactive spray play area contains many features that spray, splash and soak the patrons of the park. As the users step on the pad they are greeted with the Touch & Go Activator with the button that sets the magic in motion. The Splash Park features a large amoeba-shaped Splash Deck, and a new play structure with curved slide and observation deck, which was installed nearby on a soft surface designed to prevent injury.

PORT LAVA

As in every place I visited, the fishing, birding, boating, and coastal delights are plentiful here. And let’s not forget one of the most important features offered by Port Lavaca – its great variety of hotel accommodations!! This trip along the coastline of Calhoun County was so worth the time. My understanding of what “the beach” means to me has been enhanced immeasurably. I have discovered places, people, history, and quaint individual communities along a short stretch of my own backyard—places to which I will return, depending on what sort of beach experience I’m in the mood for! Take this trek along PO the Calhoun County CoastRT O’C ON line, and find your own coastNO R al experience. ✯

PORT LA VACA

J O U R N E Y

O F

T H E

“For the Whooping Crane there is no freedom but that of unbounded wilderness, no life except its own. Without meekness, without a sign of humility, it has refused to accept our idea of what the world should be like. If we succeed in preserving the wild remnant that still survives, it will be no credit to us; the glory will rest on this bird whose stubborn vigor has kept it alive in the face of increasing and seemingly hopeless odds.” —Robert Allen Porter

DIANE LOYD

DOVIE HO WARD

The story begins with professional wildlife photographer, Diane Loyd, and her trip to Canada near Wood Buffalo National Park. Diane and her mother, Dovie Howard, had a rare opportunity in September to visit Wood Buffalo National Park, but at the time never expected to actually see Whooping Cranes let alone photograph them. They were in for a surprise!

weather was beautiful and sunny. Dovie, a naturalist was in her element and the two hiked for some time before running into the middle of a herd of Big Horned Sheep! It was thrilling. The sheep weren’t spooked by their presence and Diane quickly began to photograph them.

In speaking with local people in Canada they were told of a pilot who had grown up near Wood Buffalo who kept tabs on the crane migration. Migration begins in September, so, Diane hired his helicopter and he flew them to a spot near Wood Buffalo. Diane and her mother were dropped off in a remote area and photographed for six hours.

Taking a brief respite, they sat down and took out the binoculars to scan the horizon. Suddenly, Diane spotted whooping cranes a short distance away! As they began hiking towards them, they realized by the birds’ behavior they had just become a pair and were already starting their journey to Texas.

Diane and her mother Dovie, who had just turned 86 at the time, were hiking alone in the wilderness. They had backpacks, water, and food. It was unseasonably warm so they weren’t concerned with experiencing any bad weather. Both their cell phones were equipped with GPS and Diane’s husband, Dit, was able to track them. The

As a serious wildlife photographer, Diane Loyd’s specialty is capturing that once-in-a-lifetime photo. Not a fan of photo-shopping her shots, the natural background of the Canadian wilderness were breathtaking in the photographs she captured on this trip.

The annual migration of the only remaining wild flock of Whooping Cranes in the world is both a mystery and a miracle!

Diane’s choice of camera and lens used was a Canon Mark V with 21 megapixels - flawless, plus a 100400 mm. telephoto, which is much easier to carry than a huge lens. She was able to capture their image without disturbing them. Diane related that she was so excited she had to calm down before she could shoot. Ultimately she shot over 100 takes to get that one prize winning photo. Having photographed Whooping Cranes for over a decade, Diane and Dovie have studied the plight of the cranes and have joined in the efforts to preserve this rare and majestic bird and its habitats. The annual migration of the only remaining wild flock of Whooping Cranes in the world is both a mystery and a miracle! Wood Buffalo National Park in North-Central Canada is their summer nesting grounds and each year like clockwork, they return to their winter site in the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR). Danger abounds from both nature and man on this grueling and treacherous 2,600 mile trek which is traveled twice yearly, many times with newly fledged young who have just learned how to fly. This is the last nesting area of this wild flock of Whooping

The Whooping Cranes are the original “Winter Texans” and their story is one of near extinction to an encouraging comeback. Cranes and was unknown until 1954 when it was discovered unintentionally by fire fighters. The demanding 9-year search by the US Audubon Society, US Fish and Wildlife Service and the Canadian Wildlife Service was finally over to find this last nesting site. It had been imperative to find the nest site in order to protect both US and Canadian habitats. As fate would have it, the site selected by this dwindling flock of wild Whooping Cranes was already protected! Wood Buffalo National Park in Canada is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the largest park in Canada at 11 million acres on the border between Northern Alberta and the Northwest Territories. It was established in 1922 to protect the North American bison, but at that time, no one had an inkling it was the last nesting site of what had once been a broad range of sites in North America. The birds just “disappeared” every Spring from Texas and returned in the Fall. It is an ideal environment for the Whooping Crane: isolated and filled with shallow ponds for nesting, marshes and abundant food. The Whooping Cranes are the original “Winter Texans” and their story is one of near-extinction to an encouraging comeback. The survival of these birds is due to the continuing efforts on the part of many people, such as Diane Loyd and Dovie Howard, along with organizations which all strive to protect them and their habitats. Due to their size and their grace, the charismatic cranes of all species have captured our imagination for centuries.

Soaring high in the skies, “whooping” with a variety of calls (how they got their name), and “dancing” on the ground in courtship displays. Every culture in the world where cranes live has myths, stories, legends, and ritual dances about them. They are symbols of faithfulness, mating for life, and represent happiness, longevity, and health. What caused the near demise of the Whooping Crane? Long sought after for its beautiful plumage for hats; hunted for food, in addition to natural predators, these birds that once numbered nearly 15,000 in North America, had dwindled to just 21 in the 1940’s. Fifteen of these were still migrating to Texas in the winter. Today, biologists estimate there are more than 250 birds in the wild flock. It is important that a self-sustaining population of whooping cranes be established, one that doesn’t require any human help. Biologists believe the AransasWood Buffalo population must have at least 1,000 individual birds and 250 reproductive pairs before the species can be considered for down-listing under the Endangered Species Act. As Wood Buffalo National Park prepares for a lengthy and frigid Canadian “arctic” winter, the Whooping Cranes prepare for take-off. It can take the flock anywhere from 11 days to two weeks or more to arrive, especially if they have chicks flying the route for the first time. The journey has stops along the way, Saskatchewan, then into the US by way of the Dakotas, on to Nebraska (Platt River is a favorite rest stop), to Oklahoma and finally to Texas. Between October and November the birds begin to arrive in their winter homes at the Aransas Natural Wildlife Refuge, Lamar Peninsula, Matagorda Island, and San Jose Island.

There are some very capable and responsible tour boat captains which can be chartered to see these majestic creatures in their natural habitat while respecting the birds’ freedom. Viewing wild whooping cranes as they fly, graze, dance and “whoop” is an unforgettable experience. Returning crane families generally stake out their previous “winter home” season after season. It’s now January. Four months since Diane and Dovie’s first encounter with the cranes. Diane Loyd and fellow passengers, artist/musician Ruben “Sazon” Aiken, magazine publisher, Thomas Meinhausen, his brother Kurt Meinhausen visiting from Arizona and writer Penny Hong who chronicled the trip, were waiting to board their charter for the day: The Jack Flash. Loading cameras, lenses, binoculars, bags, and ice chests in its cabin and back deck they set off to find the Whooping Cranes. Diane was hoping to spot one of the pairs she’d managed to capture with her camera at the crane summer nesting site in Canada. Just think about it Loyd had shot these same birds before they began their trek to Texas and here they would come together once again. This would be another great opportunity for this wildlife photographer.

Kevin Sims, Captain of the Jack Flash has been in the charter business for over 12 years and knows every nook and cranny of the waters and land. Having been raised in Lamar, he has a wealth of knowledge and many stories about the cranes and other wildlife. The Jack Flash has several great and unique features. It was designed for photographers by a photographer. Accommodating eight it sports three different decks at separate elevations which give you the choice of angle. An enclosed cabin allows for protection from the elements and it has a shallow draft capability. Motoring at 18-inches of water, it can float in 10-inches and come in very close to shore. This allows for a rare opportunity for some great shots. Fellow passenger Ruben Aiken had brought along his wooden flute which he would use to call the cranes. Believe it or not the birds actually respond to the notes of his flute! There was certainly a kind of magic that seemed to be happening on this outing. Pulling close to shore on the Black Jack Peninsula at the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, the glass-like surface of the water reflected the first pair of whooping cranes. They were feeding in front of the boat! The lighting for photography was choice. As the captain quietly guided the boat forward, towards the shoreline, Diane could see the pair of cranes stood on a small patch of land. Their reflections from the water gazed back up at them. No one breathed as Ruben raised his flute and begin to play. Something in them seemed to respond to Rubenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s playing. In a casual and elegant motion they crossed necks and

KEVIN SIMS, CAPTAIN OF THE JACK FLASH

gazed at their reflection in the water. Needless to say, Diane Loyd captured some wonderful shots that day – as one would say once-in-a-lifetime shots! The life of the Whooping Crane is one of miraculous survival. For the cranes to reproduce successfully in Canada in the summer there is one food above others they must have in the winter – Texas Coast Blue Crab. Although this is not their only food source it is the Blue Crab which insures a healthy chick. Loaded with protein, vitamins and minerals, especially calcium for strong bones and egg shells, it is the food of necessity. Adult Whooping Cranes can eat up to eighty (80) Blue Crabs a day and also has to teach its chicks how to eat it.

cranes. More yet, the rains had also brought birds and animals in up close that aren’t usually seen. With her camera busy taking shot after shot, everyone was anticipating what she had captured. The journey over too soon, the boat headed home. Tired but exhilarated by all they experienced Diane and friends savored the connection they had been a part of – a connection with nature and her inhabitants, and those that travel here each year in the winter. To see what Diane Loyd caught with her camera on this trip, plan on stopping in at Salt Flats Gallery and 4 The Birds located in the Rockport Heritage District. It will astound you. ✯

A healthy habitat for the cranes has to contain Blue Crab and the crab requires a large supply of flowing fresh water which is deposited into the bays from the Texas’ Guadalupe River Basin.Many demands are made on the waters of this river basin and it has become a political “hot topic”. The rains had favored this area as of late and the food supply was plentiful with Blue Crab for the wintering

FULTON MANSION THE HOME BUILT BY GEORGE

f you’ve ever been to the Town of Fulton, have you ever wondered about the man it was named for? It all started in the early 1800’s with a guy named George.

In Philadelphia on June 8, 1810, the founder of Fulton was born. His name was George Ware Fulton, and he was the son of George and Ann (Ware) Fulton. George was not your average child. Curious and imaginative he showed early in life he was a “hands on” kinda fellow. Once he reached the age of majority, he had jobs like being a schoolteacher, a watchmaker, and he also made mathematical instruments. I guess you could say George Fulton was a pretty smart cookie. When Texas was fighting Mexico for their independence, George got together about sixty men and they all headed down to New Orleans. Ready for battle they arrived in Matagorda Bay in February 1837, after the battle

GEOR GE A ND H ARRIE T FUL TON

of San Jacinto had already been won. For his brave efforts he received a commission as second lieutenant in the Army of the Republic of Texas, and received a grant of 1,280 acres of land. This land was located in San Patricio County. George soon resigned from the army and got a job working for the General Land Office. His job included conveyance of all the old land archives from San Antonio to Houston. It was about this time George would fall in love with his future wife, Harriet Smith.

Things were bustling in Texas after the Mexican War and in 1838 George was appointed customs director of the Aransas District. Two years later he and Harriet got married. Right about the time the Fultons celebrated their 6th anniversary they left Texas for Baltimore where two of his brothers lived. George decided to work on his own and begin developing water pumps for mining concerns. And that had him traveling to what is now known as West Virginia and Pennsylvania. In spite of all his hard work and traveling, George still was able to find the time as an occasional contributor to his brother’s newspaper, the Baltimore American. Then in 1851 Harriet’s father, Henry Smith died. In his estate was a large amount of land in the Aransas Bay area. A lawsuit which had clouded the title of Henry Smith’s

land was settled in 1857, and upon the death of Harriet’s mother and brother, the estate was turned over to George to manage. In 1867 George turned his sights to Texas. Harriet’s inheritance had given her huge land holdings in Live Oak Point and San Patricio. He added 1280 acres of his own to his wife’s and they made 10,000 acres available to the Fulton Town Company, with 2,000 acres being laid out for the town and another 8,000 acres would become part of the ColemanFulton Pasture Company, which he was instrumental in organizing. Pretty smart! The company would ship cattle to New Orleans by boat. George, who was always on top of his game, even received a United States patent for shipping beef under artificial cooling, and yet another patent for the modification of a steam-engine! Like I said before – George was one smart cookie! In 1874 George began building a dream home for Harriet, which most folks recognize as the Fulton Mansion. It took three years before the house was completed and it was a showplace. George and Harriet named it Oakhurst, and

HAR GEO

RGE

TON FUL

RIE

T FU LTO N

George being the clever guy he was, designed the home to have interior gas, central heating and flushtoilets, which almost unheard of in Texas at that time. His mind always going, George began introducing new crops to the area, and helped set in motion changes in agriculture and livestock breeds that still bear his mark throughout South Texas. As president of the ColemanFulton Pasture Company, George turned his attention to the railroad coming into Texas; directing his company’s attention toward the future, plans were laid out for the towns of Sinton and Gregory. After his death the town of Taft was also established. The Coleman-Fulton Pasture Company played a large role in establishing three towns in San Patricio County and set a pattern for turning ranchland into individual farms. George Ware Fulton died at 83 years of age, at his home on October 30, 1893. He was buried in Rockport

and in 1936 the Texas Centennial Commission placed a monument to him at his home, Oakhurst. Today, visitors explore the Fulton Mansion’s first two floors including the impressive parlor, dining room and original master bedroom. Tours offer a rare glimpse into the world of a prominent local family at a time when interior gas, central heating and flush toilets were not the norm. The grounds around the house are always open to the public and provide visitors with a beautiful view every day. Having survived over 130 years and eight major storms, the house is a testament to perseverance, the realization of a true American dream and the cultural lifeblood of its community. ✯

THE

Kenedy SOUTH TEXAS RANCHING EMPIRE

overing 1,305 miles, Highway 77 has been witness to almost one hundred years of history in the making. In 2005, you could travel as far north as Sioux City, Idaho, and as far as south as Brownsville. Here it connected (as it does currently) with the Mexican Federal Highway 180.

Y ED EN K N FLI MIF

PETRA VE LA DE

KENEDY

An hour’s drive time south from Corpus Christi will find you passing through the tiny town of Sarita. Founded in 1904 this small and significant piece of history was named for the lone survivor of the last generation of the powerful Kenedy Family. Their ranch “La Parra” could only be held in comparison with that of the King Family of King Ranch fame. With the death of the last descendent of Mifflin and Petra Vela Kenedy in 1961, unlike their neighbors and close friends the Kings, the Kenedy name would remain only as an important part of South Texas history.

Located a few blocks from Highway 77 in Sarita is the Kenedy Ranch Museum of South Texas. The beautifully restored building was originally home to the Kenedy Pasture Company, where visitors can learn about Kenedy Ranch founders Mifflin and Petra Vela Kenedy and their family. You will hear how they came to be in South Texas well before the Civil War and how their lives were interwoven with the history of the surrounding untamed lands of present day Sarita, known as the Wild Horse Desert. For 100 years after the Civil War, the Kenedy name would be significantly involved in every aspect of the economic development of South Texas with ranching, railroads, land development and oil. Visiting the museum you will hear this familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story. The last heir for whom this tiny town was named ensured her family would not be forgotten by creating a lasting legacy of philanthropy which continues today to benefit the people of Texas. From the early frontier settlements in Northern Mexico in the 1820â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s , through the Mexican and Civil Wars, trail drives, and the development of one of the greatest cattle ranches in the world, Petra Vela and Mifflin Kenedy and their family helped catapult South Texas and Mexico into the twentieth century.

Discover the Kenedy Family by visiting the Kenedy Ranch Museum of South Texas. The story of the Kenedy Family begins with the birth of Dona Petra Vela de Vidal in 1823. Having sailed from Catalonia, Spain to the New World, six generations of the Vela family had been ranchers in northern Mexico. Her father was a provincial governor under Spain with jurisdiction over the territory lying between the Nueces River and the Rio Grande and over the Indian tribes within. Petra was one of the few Mexican-origin upper-class women in nineteenth-century Texas. Representing a vital link to the landed families in Brownsville, she marries Mifflin Kenedy, a steamboat captain who had arrived in Texas during the Mexican War. B o r n i n 1 8 1 8 , i n C h e s t e r C o u n t y, Pennsylvania, Mifflinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parents were Quakers, and he was educated in the common schools of the county, spending some time in a boarding school headed by a Quaker educator. Kenedy taught school during the winter before his sixteenth birthday, and in the spring of 1834, he sailed as a cabin boy on the Star of Philadelphia, bound for Calcutta,

India. In early 1836 he taught school in Coatesville, Pennsylvania, until he decided to try for employment in river navigation. Taking an active role in both the Mexican and Civil Wars, building a business empire and raising a large family of over twelve children, Petra and Mifflin purchased the Laureles Ranch in 1868, located twenty-two miles from Corpus Christi. The Kenedys were among the first Texas ranchers to fence their lands and in 1869 enclosed Laureles on three sides with thirty-six miles of smooth-wire fence. The ranch was expanded to contain 242,000 acres all fenced, and was sold in 1882 to a Scottish syndicate that became known as the Texas Land and Cattle Company. The story of Petra and Mifflin is a poignant and sweeping epic of one of the wealthiest of Texas families and the legacy they left behind. The equal status of

Petra with her husband empowered her with the freedom of decision making as other pioneer women of the time did not enjoy. Discover the Kenedy Family by visiting the Kenedy Ranch Museum of South Texas. Learn through the exhibits on display of their early roots in South Texas to the creation of one of the largest cattle ranches in the world, and explore each facet of this amazing family and the wealth of detailed history which helped build South Texas. â&#x153;Ż

GREAT TIMES IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

here is a special place in Texas where the call of the wild blows in from the bay; where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find amazing nature and wildlife and world-class beaches, even museums, historic sites, unique shopping and great dining. Wherever you go, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find nature at its best along with that warm hospitality that Texas is so famous for. Where exactly would all this be located?

Why Matagorda County, Naturally!

matagorda style

With two rivers in Matagorda County, 5 bays, slews of sloughs, with creeks and bayous, water sports abound! You only need to decide if it will be fishing or kayaking or surfing and scuba diving. Mosey on down the Colorado or Tres Palacios River or Caney Creek in a canoe or kayak, watching for birds and wildlife as you go, or zip through the Intracoastal Waterway on a motorboat. Maybe you’d prefer to lazily drift on the gentle waters of the bay in a sailboat or test your skill on the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico. The choice is yours. What most people notice first is that everywhere they go; there are an unusually large number of birds. Along highways, red-tailed hawks and other birds of prey can be seen perched on poles; down on the beach, white and brown pelicans and other shore birds fish for a meal. While in the coastal marshes, great blue heron, roseate spoonbills and other wading birds step gingerly through the tall grass; on the Colorado River, anhinga and cormorants bask in the sun drying their wings, while in the fields and woods throughout the county, colorful warblers flit from tree to tree. Be sure and bring your camera to document your catch, the wildlife or the beautiful views. Bring binoculars, too, especially if you’re headed to the Matagorda Birding Nature Center. Located on the Colorado River, just outside Bay City, this beautiful 34-acre park has 7 botanical gardens and 3 major eco-systems for you to enjoy. Hummingbirds and butterflies are all along the nature trails that wind through forests and wetlands, with access to the Colorado River for kayakers and other paddlers. The Matagorda Birding Nature Center’s riverfront location make it a very accommodating “put-in/take-out” point for paddlers of all kinds (kayakers, canoers & rafters) and an ideal setting for introductory kayaking training. The gates are open 7 days a week, 365 days a year, from daylight to dark based on the seasons. There is also a Visitor Kiosk manned with Nature Center Volunteers from 9am until 6pm who can answer any questions you may have. They can also provide you with site maps and birding lists. Once a year paddlers from across the state converge on Matagorda County in the spring to celebrate the invaluable contributions which our freshwater streams make to the well-being of all Texans. These

kayakers, canoeists and stand-up paddle-boarders pay tribute every year to the multitude of alluring rivers, creeks and bayous, with a 9-mile float trip on the Colorado River. This fanciful flotilla of human-powered watercraft is known, far and wide, as the “Texas Paddlers’ Rally on the River”. The annual rally is open to all paddlers at for no charge and the first 100 to register receive a commemorative t-shirt, welcome goodie bag and more! If you’re more into gardening, wildlife and native plants then Matagorda County Nature Birding Center is also a great place for you! The nature center offers educational programs to Civic or Family groups, as well as to Public Schools, Home-Schooled groups. For those with physical limitations, the nature center also has Golf carts available for rent.

Along highways, red-tailed hawks and other birds of prey can be seen perched on poles; down on the beach, white and brown pelicans and other shore birds fish for a meal.

Matagorda County is a prime destination for nature-based education, and can be enjoyed by people of all ages. Just a short distance away and situated along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico and the Colorado River, you’ll find the Matagorda Bay Nature Park. The 1,600-acre nature preserve offers an array of imaginative interactive programs led by scientists and nature educators. Programs

currently offered are “Nature Scavenger Hunt,” “Fins, Furs and Feathers,” “Wings over the Wetlands,” “Day on the Bay Wetlands Kayak Trip” and “Adventures in Beachcombing.” You’ll also be able to view some intriguing exhibits on display at the Natural Science Center. If you love camping then you’ll love the miles of powdery sand where you can build a seaside campfire and watch the clouds cross the moon. Wake up early for the most beautiful sunrise you’ve ever seen. But if you prefer a little more comfort in the Great Outdoors, Matagorda County has you covered with plenty of RV campgrounds which offer a variety of accommodations, views and prices. Hunting is also an option, with outfitters and lodges targeting hunters. Geese and duck dove and deer, and even wild boar are all available in season. When you visit Matagorda County, you’ll never run out of things to do... unless you want to. Enjoy great times in the great outdoors of Texas - Matagorda Style! ✯

A PA L A C I O S T R E A S U R E

LUTHER HOTEL Saturday, August 13, 1904 – “Tonite the hotel guests crowded onto my porches to enjoy the sea breezes and the summer moon. A band played ‘Yankee Doodle Dandy’ while everyone danced.”

“Diary of a Register” by Carol Sue Gibbs

PHOTO COURTESY DAVID PIKE

hen you first arrive at the historic Luther Hotel in Palacios you can feel a certain presence. Is it the imposing structure of the hotel itself as it looms overhead or the vast expanse of the grounds which surround the old structure? One thing for sure, it certainly does draw you in.

TOP PHOTOS COURTESY DAVID PIKE

As you travel along the circular driveway leading to the hotel, you begin hearing music playing…ever so faintly. You gaze up at the Luther and you imagine a ballroom inside, with dancing and a full orchestra is playing. A picture forms in your mind like a scene from an old Hollywood movie. You step onto the large columned front porch and enter the hotel lobby. Suddenly you’re lost - somewhere back in time. Luther Hotel has been referred to as the “Jewel on the Tres Palacios Bay,” and was a favorite of those in society. It was an escape to relax and enjoy the cool sea breezes in luxurious surroundings. Your senses were correct when you first entered the historic lobby. Old Hollywood film legends Rita Hayworth and Carole Landis were indeed among the notable guests who stayed at the Luther and there was even an American President. A close friend of the Luther Family, President Lyndon Johnson spent “time off” as a guest in this grand old hotel. The president referred to Luther Hotel fondly as the “White House of the South” and the penthouse suite where he stayed can still be enjoyed by guests today. The Luther is a Palacios institution with its roots in the early development of the town. In the first decade of the 20th century, the arrival of the railroad was a time of new settlements across Matagorda County. Between 1901 and 1905, the small towns of Blessing, Buckeye, Markham, Van Vleck, Big Hill, Midfield, Cortes and Palacios sprang up on the coastal prairie.

The Texas Rice Development Company reserved Block C, located between Cary and Duson Avenues, on East Tres Palacios Bay for a hotel. The Palacios Townsite Company, a subsidiary of the TRDC, commissioned Victoria architect Jules Leffland to design the hotel, and D. D. Rittenhouse was the contractor/builder. The building materials were shipped from Louisiana via the Southern Pacific Railroad that came to Palacios in 1903. Longleaf yellow pine was used for the framing and cypress for the siding. The roof was covered with 18-inch shingles and the Rittenhouse family and construction workers lived in tents while the hotel was being constructed. The new structure was named the Bay View Hotel, and described in a 1903 Palacios news column as having sixteen rooms. By that time, the boom was on and the hotel became too small to accommodate the many visitors to Palacios. Prospective settlers traveled by rail to Palacios, being lured by “Excursion” rates offered by the Townsite Company, where they were housed in the new hotel. Several of the managers were from northern states and advertised the hotel as a “Winter Resort,” because of the milder winters on the Gulf Coast, and further enticed visitors with economical rates. A new hotel was being planned. They decided to move the existing hotel one-half mile from its East Bay location to South Bay Boulevard! It would close to the new over-the-water pavilion which was under construction. During the complicated relocation, the original chimney and porches were removed. The building was sectioned into three parts

29 29

and pulled by mule teams to the new site, where the sections were then rejoined. The center section of today’s Luther Hotel is the original hotel. The threestory east and west wings were added and a 300foot long porch, PIKE known as the ID V A SY D URTE “Longest O C O PHOT Front Porch in Texas”, was added. The porch spanned the entire length of the front of the hotel, as well as the east and west wings. A dining room, measuring about 70 x 20 feet, was added on the north side of the lobby with a separate kitchen and laundry building. The new hotel was renamed “Hotel Palacios.” The Hotel Palacios was advertised as having the finest bathing, splendid weather, best fishing, boating, lawn tennis and dancing on the pavilion. The southeast position the hotel faces ensured a continuous ocean breeze and kept the hot sun from streaming into the hotel, keeping the rooms airy and cool -and NO mosquitoes! The artesian well behind the hotel provided water to the rooms by forcing water through the pipes by its own energy. The hotel was lighted from end to end with gas generated on the premises and the fact the hotel had only outside rooms was a huge selling point. South rooms with a view of the bay commanded a higher price. During the summer of 1906, advertised rates were $2 per day. The lobby showcased a wide stairway with parlors on either side and the halls were carpeted. Rooms were furnished with

new iron bedsteads, horsehair mattresses, with dressers, and washstands of mahogany, oak or Birdseye maple. By the late 1930s the Hotel Palacios had fallen into disrepair and was purchased by Charles and Elsie Luther in 1936. The Luthers began a massive renovation of the hotel. The old dining room and kitchen were torn down. The “Longest Front Porch in Texas” was also removed and the cypress lumber saved to be used in the foundation for an eleven-room tourist court on the west side of the grounds. The entire building was refinished inside and out. Structural strengthening, rewiring, new plumbing and private bathrooms were added to each room and the breezeways between the middle/original section and the wings were enclosed. Some rooms were turned into two and three room apartments to provide living quarters for families of soldiers at Camp Hulen. Camp Hulen, formerly Camp Palacios, was a military training camp close to Palacios that was established in 1925 as a summer training camp for the 36th Infantry of the Texas National Guard. The camp was renamed for Major John A. Hulen (1871–1957) in 1930 and in 1940 the War Department leased Camp Hulen for anti-aircraft training of National Guard units from around the country. During this time Camp Hulen supported the largest concentration of troops for field training in the United States military. The camp had facilities for 12,000 military personnel and continued as a training facility until early 1944. In January 1944 Camp Hulen was converted to a prisoner of war camp. The Germans housed there were farmed out to help with agricultural work in the county until 1945. In 1946 the War Department returned the camp to the National Guard, for whom it had become too small. The camp was closed in 1946 and dismantled. Some of the camp “bunkers” used to house personnel were moved to different private locations in Matagorda County and continue to serve as “quarters” for overnight quests. The army air base became the Palacios Municipal Airport in 1965 with a development company purchasing the land in 2005. Hotel renovations were finally completed in 1941 and Mr. and

Mrs. Luther formally opening the Luther Hotel with an open house on April 20, 1941, which was also their 20th wedding anniversary. The newly-renovated hotel weathered its first hurricane as the Luther just 16 months later on August 20, 1942. In February 1944 a fire destroyed the upper floors of the original/ middle section and the east wing of the hotel. It was the worst fire in the town’s history and required both the Palacios and Camp Hulen fire departments to extinguish the blaze. Mr. Luther immediately began repairs and renovations and his efforts payed off. The hotel was in better condition than before the fire. Today guests can still enjoy large spacious rooms, all with private bath and many with kitchens! Charles Luther was indeed a forward thinker and a stickler for detail. In fact, the most significant period in the history of the hotel began with the ownership of the Luther family, who refurbished it and have continuously operated it since 1936. In 1965, Luther Hotel was designated as a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark and with Charles Luther’s passing in 1988, his daughter, Claire Luther Findley, inherited the historic hotel. Ownership passed in 2005 with Claire’s untimely death and her husband, Jack Findley, assumed the role of guardian of the Luther Hotel. He is the owner, operator and protector of the “Jewel on Tres Palacios Bay”.

Luther Hotel is the premier historic icon of the Palacios area. As the Bay View Hotel, she welcomed guests of the Palacios Townsite Company in 1903, who became some of the first residents in Palacios. After her move and expansion on the present site, she epitomized the “City by the Sea,” welcoming thousands of guests, investors and residents alike. The hotel stands alone as a testament to the rich heritage of the Palacios area and in 2010 the Luther was added to the National Register of Historic Places. REND ERING OF TH E OLD

Under the management of owner/ operator Jack Findley, guests still find welcome in a family atmosphere, as well as a congenial and accommodating host. Whether you’re there for birding, fishing, business, or just relaxing you’ll find the warmth and heritage the hotel is famous for. Today, Luther Hotel remains true to Charles Luther’s motto: “He w h o e n t e r s h e r e i s a stranger but once.” ✯

PAVILL ION

PHOTO COURTESY DAVID PIKE

PROMINENT GUESTS OF THE LUTHER HOTEL

RITA HAYWORTH

LYNDON B. JOHNSON

CAROLE LANDIS

CHARLES SERINGO

ARTIE SHAW

M U S E U M

A JOURNEY THROUGH TEXAS HISTORY

ith new folks visiting Texas from all parts of the country and the globe, it’s no wonder so many are excited and interested to learn our state’s history. What better place to discover all there is about the wild and wooly West, stories of the vaquero and cowboy, than a visit to Kingsville?

KING RANCH

If you’re falling in love with all things Texas then you’ll really love a visit to the place it all began – King Ranch®.

WHAT IS KING RANCH®?

King Ranch® and the King family are part of the myth and mystique of Texas. Numerous stories and novelizations abound with the fascinating history of the ranch, the family and indeed, Texas itself. Located in South Texas between Corpus Christi and Brownsville, King Ranch is one of the largest ranches in the world. Founded in 1853 by Captain Richard King the ranch is 825,000 acres and includes portions of six Texas counties. It’s also larger than the state of Rhode Island and at one point was more than a million acres! The ranch was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961. If you want to know Texas and the mythic past of King Ranch, a trip to the King Ranch Museum is a must. The museum is a great repository of

ranch lore and the items on display showcase the history and lives of the King family, giving you a taste of what it was like on Captain King’s legendary spread. Have you ever seen the Running W brand? This brand has been recognized around the world as “property of King Ranch”. No one knows for sure but it’s been said it represents one of the many diamondback rattlesnakes found on the ranch. Others suggest it’s the horns of a Texas Longhorn bull, while still others interpret it as a constant flowing wave pattern, uniting the past with the present and

If you want to know Texas and the mythic past of King Ranch, a trip to the King Ranch Museum is a must. continuing forward into the future. Whatever the truth may be, the brand is practical and good looking. Fast and easy to heal, it foils cattle rustlers and grows with the proud animal bearing it. King Ranch is tied to cowboys and cattle. It begins with the loyal Kineños, the ranch workers. Captain King not only brought cattle up from Mexico, but almost an entire village of Mexican cowboys who would become his fiercely loyal, Kineños, translation: king’s men. What better way to learn Texas history than a visit to King Ranch and the museum? Fascinating collections in the museum include: Toni Frissell’s award-winning photographic essay of life on King Ranch in the early 1940’s; saddles from around the world, guns including a King Ranch commemorative Colt Python .357 magnum revolver (serial number KR1) and a limited edition series of full-scale replicas of historic Texas flags. Antique carriages and vintage cars, including El Kineño, a custom designed Buick Eight hunting car built for Congressman R. M. Kleberg, Sr., in 1949 by General Motors is also on permanent display. Also featured as a permanent exhibit, is a sculpture of Mrs. Henrietta King (Captain King’s wife) and her son-in-law Robert J. Kleberg, Sr., beside the first artesian well that was

drilled on King Ranch in the summer of 1899. You’ll be able to watch an excellent video about the history of King Ranch which takes you on a virtual tour of the amazing main residence. Did you know that in addition to cattle, King Ranch raised quarter horses, cutting horses and thoroughbreds? They produced the 1946 US Triple Crown winner Assault and 1950 Kentucky Derby winner Middleground. They also owned a share of La Troienne, the greatest broodmare of the 20th century. King Ranch also had the honor of raising the first quarter horse registered with the American Quarter Horse Association. The stallion’s name was Wimpy P-1 and he was given registration number one. There is so much to discover while visiting Kingsville, King Ranch and the King Ranch Museum. Everything you ever wanted to know but didn’t know where to find it. King Ranch - a true Texas legend and it’s all waiting for you in Kingsville! ✯

“Bird watching or birding is a form of wildlife observation in which the observation of birds is a recreational activity.”

IN PORT LAVACA

CALHOUN COUNTY PHOTOS BY STEPHEN FISHER

—Pete Dunne on Bird Watching

irding is one the most popular family past times, and growing, in the United States. Why? Go out in your backyard or for you apartment dwellers, stand out on your porch with your cup of hot java or tea and just listen. Listen for a humming bird buzzing in and out of your flower bed collecting pollen and nectar to make a deposit on the next flower it visits. In the quiet of the early morning listen to the squawking of the mockingbird as it frantically protects its’ nest from predators. Just standing outside in your backyard or apartment porch enjoying the morning air as you listen to the sounds your personal aviary creates makes you a birder!

With all the water, coastal prairies, and marshes, Port Lavaca in Calhoun County is a favorite place for birders and photography. If you are fortunate enough to be a resident of the “Central Coastal Bend” you live deep in the heart of birding country. If you do not live in Port Lavaca or Calhoun County, then you should make it a point to visit this historic Texas city and enjoy firsthand the experience of birding. If you can eat a freshly harvested Texas oyster, heavy on the horseradish and cocktail sauce please, then you can become a bird watching aficionado. All you need in your bag to be a successful birder is a pair of binoculars; a note pad and a guide book to help you identify the birds you will be observing. You will also need to bring a bucketful of patience because you’re encroaching on the bird’s territory. With all the water, coastal prairies, and marshes, Port Lavaca in Calhoun County is a favorite place for birders and photography. With over 400 different species of birds, the county boasts a number of sites located on the Tres Palacios Loop and the Calhoun Loop of the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail.

During the winter migration visit the Port Lavaca Birding Sanctuary where you can expect to see Nelson’s Sharp-tailed Sparrow and Clapper Rail. The bay is easily viewed from the birding tower, where you will see Brown Pelicans and a wide variety of gulls and terns. The freshwater lake and marshes in the Guadalupe Delta Wildlife Management Area are seasonally swamped with flood waters, as well as attendant waterfowl, shorebirds, and a variety of herons and egrets. Wood Storks may be seen here in late summer and early fall, and the marshes around Buffalo Lake usually swarm with herons, egrets, White-faced Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, and Least Bittern (in summer). Listen for the bubbling trill of the Marsh Wren in late spring. The woodlands within Guadalupe Delta offer fine

During the winter migration visit the Port Lavaca Birding Sanctuary where you can expect to see Nelson’s Sharp-tailed Sparrow and Clapper Rail. migrant birding and it’s located a short drive from Port Lavaca. The Lighthouse Beach and Bird Sanctuary is located in Port Lavaca on the south end of the causeway. Walk out into the saltmarsh on the Formosa Wetlands Walkway to the Alcoa Birding Tower. Marshes can also be accessed on

the east end (Point Comfort) of the Lavaca Bay Bridge. Fall heralds the arrival of the White Pelicans. Be sure to keep an eye out for them as they soar high into the air in large circular patterns, searching for the perfect location for their winter home. Take a short drive over to Port O’Conner and visit the Port O’Connor/Matagorda Island State Park. The mudflats at the

north end of Washington Street are an excellent place to look for shorebirds. Or travel on the water and tour the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge by boat. You’ll be able to see the magnificent Whooping Cranes up close and personal. During mating season you’ll have an excellent chance of witnessing the mating dance of the Whooping Crane. The birds put on quite the show as they jump high into the air, trying to impress a potential mate. With Port Lavaca being the closest city to the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, you’ve got your birding adventure covered, for days of exploring the area without having to change your base of operation. The refuge has excellent roads that provide the perfect auto tour and walking/hiking trails is open daily from 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset. The Visitors Center is open Thursday through Sunday from 9am to 4pm.

Staying in Port Lavaca, offers you a comfortable stay and only a 44 mile drive to the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. Another great day trip is Port O’Connor. Take a drive 18 miles east from Port Lavaca and board the ferry to Matagorda Island State Park where you’ll find hike and bike trails; 38 miles of natural beach, beach combing, civil war trenches and Fort Esparanza, a pre-civil war lighthouse. Whether you’re a seasoned birder or just starting out, Port Lavaca and Calhoun C o u n t y offer both a rewarding birding experience and the excitement of discovering new historical sites and plenty of sand, sea and nature at its best.✯

T O W N

N A M E D

BLESSING The following story tells a tale of the early history of Texas, the creation of a town and the rich legacy left behind by two brothers.

JONATHAN PIERCE

he founder of Blessing, Jonathan Edwards Pierce, was born in 1839 at Little Compton, Rhode Island to Jonathan D. and Hannah (Head) Pierce. In 1858 at the age of 19 he followed his older brother, Abel Head â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shanghaiâ&#x20AC;? Pierce, to Texas and for three years the brothers worked as cow-hands for W.B. Grimes. The country would soon be divided in half with the Civil War and the Pierce brothers joined the Confederate Army. Jonathan would serve in the army from 1861 until 1865. 40

THE BLESSING HOTEL

Released from the army the brothers returned to the Grimes Ranch on the Tres Palacios and began purchasing land at every opportunity. In 1866 Jonathan would marry Nancy “Nannie” Deborah Lacy and they would build their home, el Rancho Grande, on the Tres Palacios River. The ranch house was a large, strongly built two and a half story house with galleries around the lower and upper floors, a multitude of fire-places, and a “look-out tower” perched atop the highest pitch of the roof. A one-storied wing was attached at the rear of the house with a lengthy white picket fence separating the house from the pasture around it. The pasture in turn was enclosed by thirty-five miles of Cherokee Rose Hedge. Jonathan became a rancher and cattleman with large holdings, and he and Nannie would have four children born to them: John Phillips, who married Louise Keller; Pearl, who married Dr. Allen J. Smith; Abel Brown and Grace Harriet, who married William Walter “Pudge” Heffelfinger, who was the first professional football player. On February 15, 1896, Nannie tragically succumbed from injuries she received two weeks earlier after having been accidently thrown from her carriage. She was laid to rest in Hawley Cemetery. Jonathan married his second wife, Grace Lawrence and they would have two children, James Lawrence and daughter Evelyn. Upon wife Grace’s death he would marry again for the last time. His bride, Laura Duffield, would produce a son which they named Jonathan Edwards Pierce Jr.

Since 1850, the area on the Tres Palacios River, which would come to be known as Deming’s Bridge, had been a natural meeting place for landowners who lived in the western part of Matagorda County. The lack of a crossing from the western bank of the Tres Palacios to the eastern side was remedied in 1857, when Edwin A. Deming commissioned W. A. Dawdy to build a bridge that would accommodate foot traffic as well as horse and buggy passage. Edwin Deming had long been a friend of Jonathan’s brother Shanghai Pierce, when they had met and worked together at the Grimes family cattle ranch. In 1858 “Deming’s Bridge”, as the community was then known, received a post office, with Edwin Deming as first postmaster. The Pierce brothers for a time based the headquarters of their cattle company just south of Deming’s Bridge and by 1876 Jonathan Pierce was serving as postmaster of Deming’s Bridge. The community’s population in 1884 was around 300 and had increased to 500 by 1892. The community boasted seventeen businesses, including five carpenters, one wagon maker, and two general stores (one with a flour mill). In 1899 Jonathan Pierce successfully pushed to have the post office and cemetery names changed to Hawley, in gratitude to

TOP R IG PIERC HT: JONATH A E, OTH ER TW N PIERCE, B O: JOE O BERG, TTOM LEFT: S JOHN CLAUD HANGHAI ER

Robert Bradley Hawley for securing his son, Abel, an appointment in the United States Navy. With the recent coming of the railroads and the development of Matagorda County, Jonathan realized he needed to meet the rapid growth of the expanding farming industry and the rapidly increasing population. To accomplish this task he subdivided approximately 20,000 acres of his ranch in small tracts ranging in size from five acres up. The price ranged from $20 to $50 per acre, according to location. His vision of a town began to materialize and it would not be long before the town of Blessing would be born. Jonathan’s son, Abel Brown Pierce, Sr., was born in 1874, at Deming’s Bridge. He attended the South Jersey Military Academy, studied for two years at the University of Texas, and attended Draughon’s Business College before entering the Navy as a Paymaster during the Spanish American War. At the end of the war Abel returned home and five years later would found a town with his father. In 1903 father and son established the town of Blessing on a portion of Jonathan’s land and donated a right-ofway to the Galveston, Harrisburg and San Antonio Railway to ensure the new settlement would thrive. A grateful Jonathan had petitioned that the name of his town be “Thank God” in return for having insured the railroad would pass through it; but when the U.S. Postal Department denied his original petition he changed the name to “Blessing”. With the education Abel had received, he assisted his father in establishing businesses in banking and land management in the Blessing area, and also supported civic improvements. Between 1903 and 1905 a library building was attached to the train station and in 1905 the St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico Railway also built through Blessing. D. A. Wheeler’s hotel would soon follow.

LACIOS RIV

E TRES PA

N TH BRIDGE O OLD DRAW

The Hotel Blessing would be built by Jonathan E. Pierce. Through his vision and by his design, plans were drawn by an architect from Victoria, Texas. The design was inspired by Spanish mission churches

and was in the Mission/Spanish Revival style. The hotel was built and opened for the traveling public and those that came to buy land on December 1, 1907, with G. H. Crandall from Wisconsin as the manager. It was also the residence of Jonathan and that of his son, Abel. Abel and his family were residing at the hotel while their Blessing residence was under construction. Sadly during October 1914, Jonathan would become very ill. He gradually become weaker and traveled to St. Mary’s Infirmary in Galveston for treatment. He passed away at 9pm on March 19, 1915. His body was returned to Blessing and placed in the home of his son, Abel B. Pierce, where a great many sorrowing and sympathizing friends came to pay their last respects. “Jonathan E. Pierce, Founder of Blessing, was taken to Hawley Cemetery on the afternoon of April 1st. After a brief religious ceremony in the Hawley church the Masonic fraternity, of which the deceased was a true and faithful member, took charge and the body was buried with the beautiful ritualistic ceremonies of that order.” “A pioneer citizen has gone to his reward, leaving behind a host of grief-stricken relatives and sorrowing friends.” The above was taken from “The Obituary of J. E. Pierce” which appeared in The Matagorda County Tribune on April 9, 1915. But what of Jonathan’s colorful brother, Shanghai? His name is on almost every property title of land in Matagorda County. The name “Shanghai Pierce” is well known to most residents (and visitors alike) in and around Matagorda County. How in the world did he ever get the name of “Shanghai” and who exactly was he? Old Shanghai was given the name of Abel Head Pierce at birth. He was born in 1834 in Little Compton, Rhode Island. The Pierce Family was related to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow as well as U.S. president Franklin Pierce. Railroad tycoon, Thomas Wentworth Pierce, builder of

the Southern Pacific Railroad in Texas, was also a relative. Times were tough in his branch of the Pierce Family Tree. Shanghai had been born into a large family which was solely supported by his father’s meager living as a farmer and blacksmith. As soon as he turned 19 he stowed away on a boat headed for Texas! Not very long after the ship left dock, Shanghai was discovered by the Captain and he was forced to work for his boat passage. He arrived in Indianola five months later with no money and no job. Shanghai wound-up getting work for cattle rancher W. B. Grimes and by shrewdness, hard work, and determination became an authority on cattle while working for the Grimes family. There are a vast many stories that tell how Abel Head Pierce acquired the nickname of “Shanghai”. However, the one most folks believe is that it all had to do with a pair of spurs. He’d had a blacksmith make him a pair with large rowels and when he tried them on his boots, he exclaimed, “I look like a shanghai rooster!” Shanghai Pierce was a large man (6’5”) with a booming voice and a knack for coming up with entertaining tales. He would often quip the reason for leaving his birth state and coming to Texas was because: “When I lay down, my head was in the lap of somebody in Massachusetts and my feet bothering somebody in Connecticut.” His brother Jonathan joined him in Texas after the Civil War and they formed the A.H. and J.E. Pierce Cattle Company in Matagorda County. In 1867, Shanghai and his first wife Fannie, had a daughter they named Mary, followed by a son born in 1870. Sadly, his young son and wife would die a few months later. Within a year he sold his share of the cattle company to his brother Jonathan and moved to Kansas City. Eighteen months later he returned to Texas. Once back in Texas, Shanghai started buying up land in Matagorda and Wharton counties. He built a ranch that at one time would consist of 500,000 acres! He formed the

Pierce-Sullivan Pasture Company and sent thousands of cattle to markets in the north and the name Shanghai Pierce became synonymous with cattle in Texas, Oklahoma, Missouri and Kansas. He married for the second time, Hattie Jones of Galveston, and once boasted that he was working so hard during their first year of marriage that he only spent four days of the year at home. Through the following years and countless shrewd business deals Shanghai amassed a fortune in cattle, cash and land. He became well established as a cattleman in bustling Kansas City, where he and his men drove herds to sell. After one successful sale, he wrote to his bank and had them send over $100,000 to his hotel. He then instructed his bookkeeper to include a note to collect 25 cents which was owed to him for a pair of socks! The arrival of the railroads made cattle driving much easier. New towns were established at each stop and the introduction of barbed wire turned Shanghai’s business from “free range” to pasturing. Another story that’s been passed down about Shanghai starts out with he and his men checking a cattle pasture. They came

across a steer that had been branded across its entire length with: “A.H.P. is a S.O.B.” Far from being offended, he stated: “Let him run boys. He’s good advertisement”! A trip to Europe had made quite the impression on Shanghai and when he returned home made the decision to have a statute of his likeness sculpted in marble. He commissioned sculptor, Frank Teich of San Antonio for the job and paid him $2,250. The ten-foot high statue was delivered three months later in a Southern Pacific freight car to El Campo and from there it was moved by oxen to Hawley Cemetery in Blessing. There it was mounted on a ten-foot granite base. Shanghai’s nephew, Abel Pierce Borden, introduced rice crops on the Pierce property west of Bay City. The Bay City Tribune proclaimed this as a move toward prosperity for the region and it helped bring a railroad spur to Bay City. After the 1900 Galveston hurricane devastated the Gulf but left the rice crop unharmed, Shanghai was convinced it was a good move to become “a rice boomer”. 1900 was winding down and so was Shanghai’s energy. On December 10th he ordered eighteen turkeys and his family enjoyed a Christmas Day dinner that included turkey and raw oysters. He went to bed that night complaining of a headache and died at 3am the next morning on December 26th. His lawyer, who announced his death to associates and creditors, wrote that he had died from “hemorrhaging” of the brain. His body was laid to rest at Hawley Cemetery in Blessing, once a part of the Pierce Brothers’ large ranch, and the town his brother Jonathan founded and named when the railroad came to town. At the time of his death, Shanghai’s accounts showed a net worth of over one million dollars. Abel “Shanghai” Head Pierce was a man who was loyal to his friends, ruthless to his enemies and faithful to his commitments. He, along with his brother Jonathan E. Pierce, left rich legacies and larger than life marks on the early history of South Texas, a true blessing in Matagorda County.

The spirit of the Pierce Family still exists today within the town of Blessing. Jonathan’s Hotel Blessing has been in operation since its’ opening, serving as both a family residence and hotel over the years. In 1965 the hotel was recorded as a Texas Historical Landmark and it would be Jonathan’s grandson, Abel B. Pierce, Jr., who would acquire the hotel in 1972. In 1977 he gave the hotel to the Blessing Historical Foundation and restoration was started in 1978. Hotel Blessing was entered into the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, the first official listing for Matagorda County with this distinction. The Blessing Historical Foundation currently owns and operates the hotel and leases operation of the Hotel Blessing Coffee Shop. Today, the Hotel Blessing continues to be a popular meeting place for local residents and visitors alike. Be sure and go hungry! Great home cooking and hospitality served up Southern style. When you visit be sure and ask to see the window where Jonathan used a diamond ring to etch these words so long ago: “Forever shall my memory be in the hearts of my people...May God bless the world and have mercy on the sinful man.” A block over from the Hotel Blessing you’ll find another very popular meeting place, of a different nature. Here it’s all about quilts and let’s face it, who doesn’t enjoy having their own quilt to cuddle up in on those cold winter nights? Nearly everyone remembers sleeping under a quilt made by their mother or grandmother, and many of those quilts were made from time-honored traditional quilt designs. Many a guest of the

Hotel Blessing used quilts during their stay and a visit to “Quilt Fabric n More” will give you an idea of everything that goes into making this much loved and functional art form. Texas history, a historic operating hotel and restaurant, along with a unique quilt shop are definitely worth a visit to the Town of Blessing. ✯

T H E T O W N O F F U LT O N

he coastal town of Fulton is a perfect destination when you need a reprieve from the hustle of every day. Between its rich history, quaint local shops, delicious dining and world-class birding, fishing and nature excursions, there are all kinds of fun things to do in Fulton. Located on the shores of beautiful Aransas Bay, this quaint and charming town was laid out by the founding fathers for easy access to and from the still working harbor. Nowadays, visitors and residents alike can partake and enjoy a plethora of fun activities! Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be captivated by the warmth and friendliness of the locals, turning strangers into friends.

PHOTO

BY DIAN

E LOYD

Fulton serves as a great place to stay during your coastal vacation. Take a scenic drive down Fulton Beach Road, to see the sunrise and bring a picnic to savor and enjoy the passing sailboats and shrimp and oyster boats. With daily boat excursions leaving right from the bustling harbor, there is an adventure waiting for travelers of all ages! Harbor tours are a great way to explore the surrounding area and see nearby places, like St. Joseph Island, Copano Bay and the Lamar and Rockport shorelines from a water perspective! There are several excursions that offer up close and personal encounters with wildlife. Dolphins and the many birds which inhabit the Texas Coastal Bend in the winter, draw photographers year after year.

Kids and adults will enjoy a visit to the historic Fulton Mansion, which was built from 1874 and completed in 1877. The Mansion offers tour activities for children, and love working with all ages. Enjoy family events and programs year-round! Many of these events are free and all are open to the general public. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the annual MayFest held the first Saturday of May or Movies at the Mansion each spring and fall.

Enjoy a romantic sunset cruise and/or a sunrise birding photography cruise! Visitors can also check out the local harbor to see the tradition of shrimping and oystering that is still alive and thriving today.

Builder of the Fulton Mansion, George Fulton, was a man of many talents; an engineer and inventor as well as a ranching entrepreneur and promoter of the Texas Gulf Coast. His wife, Harriet Smith Fulton, was a devoted wife and companion throughout their marriage of more than 50 years, with many talents and skills of her own. Their bayside residence is a classic example of French Second Empire domestic architecture and is also a very personal and innovative dwelling. The historical significance of the house lies in its noteworthy architectural style, unique construction methods and advanced mechanical systems, which featured gas lighting, central heating and indoor plumbing with hot and cold running water. The beautiful grounds of the Fulton Mansion plays host to concerts and productions which are hosted throughout the year just steps from downtown Fulton.

Fulton is also recognized for having some of the best sea kayaking in Texas. With water ranging from the open bay to more calm and protected inlets, there are plenty of opportunities for kayakers of all ages and skill levels. You can bring your own kayak or get a rental at one of the nearby shops. Paddle around the harbor or down the Fulton shoreline at your leisure.

PHOT

O BY D

IANE L

OYD

Enjoy a romantic sunset cruise and/or a sunrise birding photography cruise! No need to hassle with a car. Fulton has a trolley you can ride for free! And it goes everywhere in Fulton! Decked out in vintage finery of gleaming wood, polished brass and etched glass, this girl is also equipped with air conditioning for cool riding in the summer months. There are many historic and interesting spots in Fulton you’ll discover while touring on the trolley. Places you might not see otherwise. Riding in air conditioned comfort on this vintage style trolley to and fro is like being on a sightseeing tour – all at no charge! Fulton also offers a selection of lodging options that are as unique as their coastline. The idea of a perfect vacation is not the same for everyone, and that is certainly true when it comes to finding a place to stay. No matter what you are looking for though, Fulton has just the spot for you. If you are vacationing with the whole family, cottages are also available for rent on the water, and there are many places, such as the Sandollar Resort & Motel, where you can stay the night or park your RV! You’ll enjoy the many amenities each lodging offers – all within walking distance of the water and downtown Fulton! Golf carts are also an option and are available for rent at many places during your stay.

PHOTO BY DIANE LOYD

Whether you are looking to be in the heart of downtown, steps away from the waterfront, shopping, dining, and night life or if you prefer the quiet tranquility of a relaxing retreat, Fulton has the perfect lodging for you. For foodies looking for a place to eat, dining in the seaside town of Fulton could be called “fine dining”. Visit one of the many dockside restaurants and savor fresh oysters, and other seafood delicacies. Or enjoy a succulent shrimp dinner overlooking the beautiful harbor. Fulton restaurants serve up some of the freshest local catches like fish, shrimp and oysters! If seafood is not your thing, don’t worry - restaurants serve up a variety of other delicious food sure to please any appetite. Fulton has been referred to as the Oyster Capital of Texas and is also a great place to visit year-round for its events. The first weekend in March Fulton celebrates the annual Oysterfest, drawing 40,000 attendees each year. Fun activities at Oysterfest include the Raw Oyster Eating Contests, Oyster Shucking Contest, arts and crafts, fresh oysters cooked more ways than you can think of and many other tasty foods and dishes, a huge parade, fireworks, kids programs, concerts, a carnival, midway and more are all part of the fun of Fulton’s Oysterfest! A visit to Fulton can be whatever you want it to be - a peaceful time to unwind and relax by the ocean, shop the local stores, to a more active vacation full of hiking, kayaking, biking, fishing and other ocean adventures, or a family getaway that will create memories to last a lifetime. Regardless of when you come or how long you’ll stay, you will find that Fulton is truly a quaint historic and original seaside town. ✯

TRUE

WATE RF

RON

T DIN

ING

THE GOLDEN CITY

Galveston W

hen people first think of Texas they usually picture cowboys, campfires and cattle. For the most part that would be true, but what first comes into your mind when you think of Galveston? The Galveston Island Convention & Visitors Bureau has the statement correct when they say: “Galveston is part Southern, part Texan…and has more history and stories than cities twenty times its size.” Galveston Island is a town like no other in the state of Texas. As the first Europeans landed there in 1528, they found swamp land and Indians; the Karankawa and Akoisa who used the land for camping, fishing, hunting and also as a burial ground. The Spanish explorer Cabeza de Vaca is also a part of the early history of the island. While on an expedition to colonize the Gulf Coast for Spain, navigators were uncertain of their location when they landed near present day Tampa Bay, Florida. After several months of fighting native inhabitants through wilderness and swamp, only 241 men remained of the original 600 man expedition. Believing they were near other Spaniards in Mexico, the men devised a plan to escape by water not realizing there was some 1500 miles of coast between them.

LEGENDARY PIRATE JEAN LAFFITE

They constructed five primitive boats to use in search of Mexico. Two of the boats with about 40 survivors, wrecked on or near present day Galveston. Shipwrecked on the Island, Cabeza de Vaca lived among the Karankawa for several years - both as a medicine man and as a slave. In the late 1600’s, the French explorer Robert Cavelier La Salle claimed this area for King Louis and named it St. Louis.

D. B. MENAR R MICHEL O H F T N O E B L L Y STUS A OWNED B AND AUGU LY HOME T BY JOHN STON AND THE ON IL U B . E S D HOU GALVE EL MENAR ING RESIDENCE IN 1838 MICH ON IST T X S E U T O S H E D D L N IT IS THE O R OF GALVESTON A DE THE FOUN

The city of Galveston was named for Bernardo de Gálvez, a Spanish colonial governor and general. Gálvez sent Jose de Evia to chart the Gulf of Mexico from the Texas coast to New Orleans, and on July 23, 1786, de Evia charted an area near the mouth of a river and named it Galveston Bay. Later, the island and city took the same name. Bernardo de Gálvez died the same year, never setting foot on his namesake island.

Galveston is rich with history. One of the more famous legends of both history and lore is associated with the pirate Jean Lafitte. Born in 1776 Lafitte was a French pirate and privateer in the Gulf of Mexico in the early 19th century. He is believed to have been born either in France or the French colony of Saint-Domingue, but by 1805 he operated a warehouse in New Orleans from

which he dispersed the goods smuggled into the country by his equally notorious brother Pierre Lafitte. After the United States government passed the Embargo Act of 1807, the Lafittes moved their operations to an island in Barataria Bay, Louisiana. Their new port was a rousing success and led the brothers to not only expand the smuggling operation but also to branch out into what they became most famous for - piracy. Though Lafitte tried to warn Barataria of a British attack in 1814, the American authorities successfully invaded and captured most

of Lafitte’s fleet. The following year in return for a pardon, Lafitte helped General Andrew Jackson defend New Orleans against the British. Later, during the Mexican War of Independence, the Lafittes became spies for the Spanish and moved to Galveston Island. In 1817, Lafitte developed a colony in Galveston named Campeche which at its peak numbered about 1,000 people. Eventually forced to leave, he burned his town as he left. Lafitte continued attacking merchant ships as a pirate around Central American ports until he died around 1823, trying to capture Spanish vessels. LOOKIN G EAS TF IN THE BACKG ROM 14TH A FROM THEIR ROUND. TH ND BROADW E HOME A KNOW PHOTO WA Y, THE DEST S TAK N TOD RUCTIO E AY AS BISHO N BY A MEM N OF THE 1 PS PAL 90 BER O ACE F THE 0 STORM LO O GRESH AM FA MS MILY,

Galveston as we know it today was founded by Michel Menard and Samuel May Williams, among others. The homes of these early pioneers are still standing. Incorporated in 1839, Galveston quickly became the most active port west of New Orleans and the largest city in the state. Texas’ first post office, first opera house, first hospital, first golf course, and first country club were built in Galveston as the city quickly expanded. It became the most exciting and sophisticated city in Texas. On September 8, 1900, Galveston would be dealt a devastating blow. The golden city would be battered by what stands as the most deadly natural disaster to strike this country – the Great Storm. At the time of the 1900 Storm, Galveston had a population of 37,000 and was the fourth largest city in Texas. One-third of the city was completely wiped out, with more than 3,600 buildings destroyed and over 6,000 people dead.

D O MACEO AN AND ROSARI M SA EM S PT ER BY BROTH OYED ON SE WAS DESTR NED IN 1942 IT PE O S. XA AS W TE F M O E ROO HTCLUB THE BALINES EMIERE NIG CAME THE PR E IK QUICKLY BE E BY HURRICAN BER 13, 2008

In the aftermath of the devastating storm the survivors who stayed were determined to persevere, and they raised the entire level of the city by eight feet, 17 feet at the Seawall, slanting the ground so water would run off into the bay. The grade raising was so successful that when the next hurricane as fierce as the Great Storm hit Galveston in 1915, the city was secure. The Jitterbug era of the ‘40s and ‘50s, brought in popular cocktail clubs like the Gulf Coast’s premier nightspot, the legendary Balinese Room. Formerly located at 2107 Seawall Blvd., the nightclub was situated at the end of a 75foot pier over the Gulf. Famous performers such as Frank Sinatra, Peggy Lee, Sophie Tucker and the Marx Brothers, just to name a few, played and gambled at the Balinese, with savvy Houston oilmen like Diamond Jim Walker and Glenn McCarthy as regular patrons. Gambling being illegal in the state, the Texas Rangers tried numerous times to close down gambling at the Balinese, but by the time they’d made their

way through the six heavy glass doors and down the long length of the pier (dubbed “Ranger Run”), all the gaming tables had been converted to backgammon. The slot machines folded into the wall like Murphy beds, and the chips were stashed out of sight in the kitchen. And then the band would strike up “The Eyes of Texas” in “honor” of the Rangers, and patrons and staff alike would stand to show their Texan patriotism, which of course, further slowed the lawmen’s progress. The Rangers finally had their way, shutting the Balinese down in 1957, along with all the other gambling establishments in Galveston. During the early ‘80s, Galveston began a successful campaign of renewal. Galveston-born oilman, George Mitchell, leading the revitalization effort, focused first on overhauling and promoting the Downtown Historic District. The district contains one of the largest and most well-preserved concentrations of Victorian iron-front commercial architecture in the country. A dedicated team brought the 1877 Tall Ship Elissa to Galveston and restored it to its glory days. With full white sails and exquisite wooden cabinetry, the Elissa became the symbol of a new Galveston.

PLE A HAR SURE P IE OLD ROB R IN TH E BINS FAM MID 190 0’S P ILY RIVA TE C OLL ECT ION

. OTOGRAPHER ANRIGHT, PH C ID AV D . AY ER TOD PLEASURE PI

In 1986 the city revived the celebration of Mardi Gras! Galveston by commissioning the world’s most famous architects to design fantasy arches to span the streets of The Strand Historic District. Today more than half a million people visit the Island for the city’s annual Mardi Gras celebration. The Galveston Historical Foundation has done a tremendous job in encouraging preservation and restoration, resulting in more than 2,000 buildings in town which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. I think it would be safe to say Galveston has not only survived and preserved throughout the past century, but has flourished. ✯

XAS E TE T TH A H ERT ER B , AT H S A X TE IP OF L SH L A T 21 IAL FFIC PIER HE O DE AND T , A I ISS RS IP EL ARBO LL SH SEUM, H A T 7 MU 187 ORT SEAP

PEO P BEA LE DRE C WAL H AND SSED IN L, W S ITH TROLL THEIR S AN U A U NDE LONG T NDAY B HE T VEL EST OPE O D BO P OF T ENJOY H T ULE VAR E NEWL HE GAL VES Y CO D IN TO THE N BAC STRUC N TE KGR OUN D SEA D

LAMAR

THE TOWN OF TWO SHRINES

he community of Lamar was founded in 1839 at Lookout Point, on the channel entrance to Copano Bay and named for Mirabeau B. Lamar, the second president of the Republic of Texas. President Lamar agreed to relocate the custom house there, and the town thrived as a port and the site of a salt works. However, this prosperity ended abruptly on February 11, 1864, when the town was bombarded and practically obliterated by the Union Navy during the Civil War.

Lamar is home to one of the most famous live oaks in the world, the Big Tree, thought to be one of the largest in the United States. The Texas Forest Service estimates the tree to be over 1,000 years old, but other estimates place it nearer to 2,000! Also known as “Bishop Oak” and “Lamar Oak”, the Big Tree is a charter member of the Live Oak Society and has been the subject of one of Ripley’s “Believe It or Not” cartoons. The Big Tree is possibly the oldest live oak. It possesses a circumference of over 35 feet, is more than 45 feet tall and has a crown spread of 90 feet. Record or Champion Trees are determined by their girth, their spread and their height. The almost continuous gulf breeze however, limits the height of this oak, but when the tree’s girth is factored in make this the second largest live oak in Texas. According to climatologists, the Big Tree has survived anywhere between forty to fifty major hurricanes, numerous floods, droughts and wildfires yet here this ancient shrine continues to thrive in the seaside community of Lamar. Another, not quite so ancient shrine can also be found in Lamar. The Schoenstatt Shrine faces Copano Bay, cradled amongst the ancient windswept oaks. The view toward the bay is southward and the sereneness of the grounds bring peace, even tranquility, while gazing out at the calm, yet often turbulent water. It is a perfect retreat from life’s turmoil and as it should be, it is a house of spiritual retreat. The shrine is cared for and surrounded by the provincial house of the Schoenstatt Sisters of Mary. The shrine in Lamar is a replica of the original shrine in Germany. This is where the founder, Father Joseph Kentenich (1885-1968), together with a group of seminarians, dedicated their lives to Mary, Mother Thrice Admirable in the covenant of love on October 18, 1914. Their mission was for the renewal of the wor ld in Christ through Mary. During World War II, Father Kentenich spent several years in a concentration camp in Dachau. His love for the Church never wavered and proved to be steadfast in times of rejection and anxiety. He died on September 15, 1968, in the Adoration Church in Germany on Mount Schoenstatt, where he is entombed. What is Schoenstatt? It is a place of pilgrimage. Schoenstatt is a worldwide movement of prayer and sacrifice. The Schoenstatt Movement is a special kind of spiritual community, which offers a place and support to any

Lamar is home to one of the most famous live oaks in the world, the Big Tree, thought to be one of the largest in the United States. Catholic searching for spiritual help, growth and guidance. It is comprised of people of all walks and stages of life, of all ages and cultures. The Schoenstatt Lamar Shrine celebrated their 50th golden jubilee in 2009. Its 50 year history is a rich one. In 1949, when the Schoenstatt Sisters of Mary left Africa by boat to come to the United States, they had no idea how it would all unfold. Three sisters made their way knowing only they were expected. Their founder, Father Joseph Kentenich, had told them, “Build the Blessed Mother a shrine and she will do the rest.” They had no idea how far, what transportation was available and, much less, what would be the cost. The original destination was

Mobile, Al. When the captain told them they did not have enough money for their trip to Corpus Christi, they turned to the Mother of God and prayed for guidance. On the eve of Sept. 8th, the Feast of the birth of Mary, the captain announced a change of course due to a hurricane; their new destination was Corpus Christi! Although they didn’t arrive in time to take up the task assigned to them, they soon received an invitation to work in the Catholic school in nearby Rockport. Language difficulties, financial needs, customs and climate all added to their spiritual contribution for the building of the future Schoenstatt Shrine. Finally in 1958, plans for buying land and building the shrine became more concrete. The sisters had saved from the little they earned from their work, from extra projects such as music lessons, and so on. But it still wasn’t enough. A loan was needed, but no one in the surrounding area wanted to invest in a community without credit or assets. Finally, a bank in St. Louis realized how and what the sisters had earned and trusted they would be faithful. Thus, the Schoenstatt Shrine for the Mother Thrice Admirable and part of the retreat house could begin. On Oct. 18, 1959, Bishop Marx officiated, as many friends and pilgrims attended the dedication of the first Schoenstatt Shrine in Texas. He said, “With the dedication of this Shrine and the Motherhouse of the Schoenstatt Sisters of Mary of the Catholic Apostolate, a new epoch in the history of Lamar begins.” This shrine is truly a place which invites and stimulates. Today the blessings from this shrine have reached into Mexico with a shrine and retreat center in Queretaro, Queretaro. There are also shrines in Monterrey, San Luis Potosi, and Chilapa. The second Schoenstatt Shrine in Texas was dedicated Oct. 18, 2008 in San Antonio.

On October 18, 2014, the Apostolic Schoenstatt Movement celebrated 100 years of its founding. People from more than 100 countries had been waiting and preparing for this moment. The jubilee was a thanksgiving for a blessed history. It marked the outpouring of the Schoenstatt Movement into a new era, guided by the grace of its beginnings, and can be summarized by the expression: Covenant of Love October 2014 saw several thousand people arriving in the place of origin in Vallendar/Schoenstatt, Germany to celebrate the climax of a great international pilgrimage. They renewed the Covenant of Love and from there they pilgrimaged to R ome, the center of the Church. On November 9, 2014, The Schoenstatt Shrine in Lamar located at 134 Front Street, joined them in the celebration of their 100 year anniversary. The program included a serenade to the Blessed Mother, and a Solemn Jubilee Holy Mass. The Schoenstatt Shrine in Lamar welcomes all who wish to come for a visit, a pilgrimage or a retreat. On the 18th of every month a Holy Mass, talk and benediction are offered for all. The Shrine is open from 8am until 7pm most of the year. â&#x153;Ż

A Texas

MANSION

ehind the elaborate black iron gates lies the Berclair Mansion. Five sisters resided in this 10,000 square foot residence, with 22 rooms and filled with rare and exquisite antiques some of which had previously been owned by European nobility. Upon the death of the last of the sisters in 1975, the mansion was boarded up and unoccupied for almost 30 years. What would cause the niece who inherited it to leave instructions in her will that the home should be demolished?

The story begins in 1936. Laurette Elizabeth Wilkinson (“Miss Etta”), the second of 8 children, was born in 1861 on Matagorda Island. In 1892, at the age of 31, Etta married James Crogan Ludlow Terrell, a Victoria cattleman who was just 3 years younger than her father. Starting over after the Civil War with only $1300 in Confederate money and one steer, Terrell would come to amass a fortune in over 25,000 acres of South Texas ranchland. The couple would have two children, a daughter who died at 8 days old and a son, Ripley, who would sadly pass in 1928. At the death of her husband in 1919, Miss Etta would return to the community of Berclair to live with her family. At the age of 75, Etta Terrell would build the United States’ largest steel strand home. It was constructed at the site where her family home once stood before it was demolished by a fire in 1898. She made a promise to herself she would build a grand home in which she and her sisters would reside. It would be near the same spot as the family home, and that this new home would be fireproof! Miss Etta’s promise turned into a mansion with two floors, 10 bedrooms and six baths, a grand

reception room, formal and informal living rooms, formal and informal dining rooms, sewing room, pump room, laundry room and two grand hallways the length of the house, and an elevator, in addition to two sets of staircases. The most amazing feature of the house was the 60 tons of structural steel used to build the home. And, beneath the wooden floors are sub-floors of cement. It is thought that the house, which also includes an attic and full basement, cost between $50,000 and $100,000 to build in 1936. When the Mansion was completed, Miss Etta invited her four sisters to live with her. Bertha, Loriene and Carlyle who never married, Etta and Regina, who were both widowed, lived together in the home. Each of the sisters had their own room upstairs showcasing their individual tastes. Beveled mirrors, peacock feathers, lamps draped with fringed scarves, drawers full of lingerie, trays of lipstick, face powder, lotion, cologne, hair brushes and hand mirrors all sit silently for the return of their owners. The bedrooms also feature a highly unusual addition of walk-in closets, still holding some of the sisters’ clothing. There

were also spare guest bedrooms and rooms that were used for music and sewing! The sisters took care of themselves and they each had their duties running the house, with each of them performing the chore best suited to their own particular talent; whether it be cooking, gardening or overseeing the cattle ranch. Miss Etta was 95 at the time of her death in 1957. Her sisters continued to live in the house until the last one, Carlyle, died in 1975 at the age of 94. The house was willed to Ettaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s niece, Genevieve Moore who shuttered and abandoned the home with the furnishings intact. Genevieve had spent little time in the house as an adult and when she died in 1998, her will specified the house be destroyed and the contents donated to museums. Legal battles were fought among the distant relatives to save the house and they were successful in having this part of the will set aside. In 2000 the heirs made the mansion, and its contents, a gift to the non-profit Beeville Art Association - without ever looking inside the home! Upon receiving the mansion, the house was opened and the treasures revealed. Filled with 16th and 17th century antiques, it must have been like revealing the tomb of King Tutankhamen! It had to have been incredible to discover these works of art had been inside the house for over 65 years. A Tiffany clock built originally for Louis Tiffany, a wall size mirror which had graced the palace of Prince Roland Bonaparte in France, an urn made for Queen Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diamond Jubilee, objects dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art once belonging to Kaiser Wilhelm, and the many original

paintings hanging throughout the house was amazing. With much time, money and expertise the Beeville Art Association were able to refurbish and redecorate the entire mansion. All work done on the mansion to get it ready and open to the public was a labor of love at the hands of many volunteers. It opened in 2001. In addition to the house itself, the surrounding 3-acres on which it sits was also given to the art association. Behind the mansion the original stables have been replaced with a modern building designed for entertaining. Equipped with a commercial kitchen, large inside dining area and outside patio, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a perfect place for dinner parties, weddings, luncheons, teas and more. The grounds are beautifully kept, just as they were in Miss Ettaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time. The Berclair Mansion is a wonderful display of original museum quality antiques and artwork acquired by Mrs. Terrell specifically for placement in this home. Each piece has its own amazing history and story to be told. The mansion and grounds are available for viewing the last Sunday of each month, but to enjoy a rare opportunity be sure and attend the Annual Berclair Boots & BBQ which is held every year on the mansion grounds. A fundraiser for the upkeep and maintenance of the mansion, attendees enjoy live music, food, beverages, live and silent auctions, along with tours of the mansion itself. Past prizes have included a private dinner for 10 in the formal dining room of the Berclair Mansion, with dinner being served on the original mansion china! For information on touring the Mansion contact the Beeville Art Association, owners and operators of the Berclair Mansion.â&#x153;Ż

HOWDY AND WELCOME TO THE

Wild Horse Desert

ravel plans to South Texas should include a trip to Kingsville. Home of the Cowboy and the largest ranch in Texas… not to mention the entire planet! If this is your first trip to the area, you’ll learn all you ever wanted to know about King Ranch®, the Wild West and one of the most interesting times in Texas history, all within the City of Kingsville.

Kingsville is located just thirty minutes from Corpus Christi and there’s plenty to do for the entire family. Make sure you stop by the Visitor’s Center who can provide you with directions and maps to all the cool places you’ll want to see. Start your adventure with a tour of the King Ranch®. Guided bus tours provide a firsthand look and your guide will explain the history and modern day workings of the ranch. You’ll get a look at some of the equipment used on the ranch which was actually developed by King Ranch®. You won’t believe how large it is - HUGE!

The auction arena, the famous King Ranch Quarter Horses, along with the legendary Santa Gertrudis cattle and the horse cemetery are all part of the tour, and you’ll discover the “Colony”. You’ll hear the fascinating story of the Kineños (King’s men), and how they with their families left their village in Mexico to follow Captain King into the Wild Horse Desert. You’ll also see many historic buildings including Mrs. King’s carriage house, the Commissary with its lookout and gun tower and the grand home built in 1912 by Captain King’s widow, Henrietta. All this in summer-proof

air conditioned comfort. There are two tours per day which run MondaySaturday: 11am and 1pm and Sunday: 12:30pm and 2:30pm. After the tour, make your way over to the King Ranch Saddle Shop located a few blocks away in the historic downtown. The saddle shop is world famous and you’re sure to find that special something as a memento from your trip. Descendants of the original saddle makers are still there and continue to make many of the quality leather products they carry. If you’re taking the earlier tour lunch will be on the menu and there are plenty of great restaurants located right downtown. From old-fashioned hamburgers and fountain sodas to juicy steaks and pizza, there’s something to satisfy everyone’s palate. A stroll downtown will have you feeling like you’ve just stepped back in time – and there’s plenty of shopping to be found! Be sure and check out the historic Train Depot and learn what life was like in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. There are also lots of old photos of the historic downtown area which also explain what life was like in the early part of the 20th century. Head on over to King Ranch Museum a few blocks from downtown and you’ll discover even more about the legendary Captain King and his family, and the part they played in the development of South Texas. Some of the treasures on exhibit include antique carriages and vintage cars, including “El Kineño”, a custom designed Buick Eight hunting car built for Congressman R. M. Kleberg, Sr., in 1949 by General Motors. With plenty of great hotels to choose from an overnight stay is recommended. There are many other hidden treasures in and around the city you’ll want to discover. A meal at the famous historic King’s Inn is a must and it’s right on the shores of Baffin Bay. This is water front dining and you can expect to experience some incredible food, almost as legendary as the city itself. Be sure to include an order of their famous shrimp! A secret family recipe will have you begging for more! Want to see more? A visit to the campus of Texas A&M UniversityKingsville and the Conner Museum will give you even more insight into the history of Texas and historic Kingsville. Many of the buildings on campus are historic, as well as the surrounding neighborhoods. A “drive-about” might have you making plans to become a permanent resident in Kingsville.

You’ll see many historic buildings including Mrs. King’s carriage house, the Commissary with its lookout and gun tower and the grand home built in 1912 by Captain King’s widow, Henrietta. There’s even more to discover on the second day and it should include a twenty minute drive south to the tiny town of Sarita and a visit to the Kenedy Ranch Museum. Kenedy and King were partners and lifelong friends. The museum is housed in the offices of the Kenedy Ranch, and it tells the intriguing and fascinating story of the Kenedy family. (Not related to former U.S. President John F. Kennedy) The beautiful grounds and the architectural intrigue of the building itself is worth the drive alone. It’s a short drive back to Kingsville and before you head home take a moment to visit the Chamberlain Cemetery and pay your respects to Captain Richard King and his wife Henrietta

who started it all. The cemetery was opened in April 1909 and named for Henrietta King’s father, Hiram Chamberlain, a noted minister who organized the first protestant church on the southern Rio Grande. Henrietta died March 31, 1925 and was buried in Chamberlain Cemetery. She had increased the size of the ranch from 500,000 acres of land at the time of her husband’s death to over a million acres. Two hundred cowboys, wearing their ranch clothes and riding their range horses, accompanied “La Patrona” to her grave. Captain King, a son, and a daughter were brought from San Antonio in the fall of 1925 and reinterred in Chamberlain cemetery under the tall shaft of granite inscribed King. Other prominent ranching families have members also buried in Chamberlain including the Easts, the Turcottes, and the Armstrongs. Another historical figure buried there is Uriah Lott, a visionary builder of railroads throughout central and south Texas. Always the weekend before Thanksgiving, the city hosts the annual Ranch Hand Weekend. Running in conjunction with the

famous King Ranch® Annual Ranch Hand Breakfast, both the city and ranch put on one heck of a show in celebrating their heritage. Local museums, artists, businesses, community organizations, vendors and the university all work together to provide quality entertainment throughout the weekend. Visitors are treated to an authentic cowboy breakfast on King Ranch® along with storytelling, cooking demonstrations, team roping demonstrations, re-enactors, musical entertainment, poetry and more. The fun continues with a rodeo, concert and cowboy church on Sunday morning. This is my kind of weekend getaway. ✯

Historical Homes

H 66

istory is alive and well in Matagorda County. Some of the finest examples of historic homes and buildings in the state can be found in Bay City. Preserving and encouraging preservation of historic properties has kept the history of Texas and Bay City viewable to the public. The very act of preservation helps to educate todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youth, as well as future generations, with a knowledge of local inherited values and treasures.

The Texas Historical Marker for the Holman House reads: Spanish-American War Veteran And Matagorda County Judge (1908-1914) William Shields Holman And His Wife Louise (Kaulbach) Built This House In 1908-09. Designed By A. W. Large And Constructed By Contractor H. Speckles, The House Is An Excellent Example Of Queen Anne Styling. It Features Asymmetrical Composition, An Elaborate Roofscape, Corner Tower, Wraparound Porch, And Varying Textures On Its Wall Surfaces. It Remained In The Holman Family Until 1978.

These historic homes are just a small sampling of what you can expect to see when you visit Bay City in Matagorda County. One of the most photographed homes in Matagorda County, construction of this Victorian jewel was started in 1908 and completed in 1909. Built for Judge and Mrs. William Shields Holman, the home is 3-stories in height with a 2-story carriage house in back and occupies a quarter of the city block. The house contains 14 rooms, 3 porches, 3 balconies, an expansive attic, an upstairs hallway, ample closets and 3 original fireplaces. The exterior of the home is of Louisiana cypress weatherboarding, the interior of pine, with wide-planked pine floors. Metal shingles cover the sharply-pitched roof, on which lightning rods with ornamental glass balls are mounted. While on a business trip, Judge Holman

spotted 2 carloads of Louisiana cypress on a railroad siding. He bought it on the spot for his new home. Underground concrete blocks are anchor-bolted to solid pillars of red brick, 3-feet in height which were designed to support the house above then recurrent floodwaters. These also provided strength against hurricane force winds and would provide a drying/crawl space under the house. The front entrance of the home faces east and is protected by a large brick-and-ninecolumned porch which was designed to catch morning light and gulf breezes. A large turret covers the southeast corner of the porch, with a multi-windowed tower on the third floor above. An enjoyable balcony is above the main entrance and a dormer on the roof above. The front entrance is stunning with leaded glass above ornamented pine panels on either side of and above the heavy relief-decorated pine and oval plate glass front door. The original hand-turned door bell is still in operation on the panel to the left.

The Texas Historical Marker for the Moore House reads: D. P. And Louise Moore House Dolph Phenias (D.P.) Moore (1852-1928) Moved To Matagorda County In 1869. He Married Louise Wendel In 1879 And Together They Reared Ten Children. A Successful Merchant, Rancher, And Landowner, Moore Sold The Land On Which The Town Of Bay City Was Platted In 1894. He Moved His Family To Bay City That Year. Local Contractors Hatchett & Large Built This 15-Room Queen Anne Style House For The Moores In 1902. A Prominent Civic Leader, Moore Was Instrumental In Bringing Railroads To Bay City And In The Development Of The Area’s Rice Industry. He Donated Land For Cedarvale Cemetery And Park.

The Moore home with its’ elegant proportioning and fine detail combine to make this well-designed structure one of the finest late Victorian residences in the city. Built in 1902 by builders Hatchett and Large, the land was purchased from David Swickheimer co-founder of Bay City in 1894. This late Victorian 2-story is a 4-bay wood-frame residence which features a columned and balustraded front porch and gallery. It has a projecting gable roofed section with bay and a small Palladian window in the gable. The house has two fireplaces with grill work in both the music and dining rooms. Containing both front and rear stairs there are also porches on both the first and second floors. Beautiful leaded glass windows allow for light in the living room, with a frosted and etched glass front door catching light at the entry. Located on the first floor are both dining and

breakfast rooms, two kitchens, bedroom and a bath. A living and music room complete the first floor. Boasting five bedrooms on the 2nd floor, there is also a parlor and bath. A closed stairway leads to the attic with a ladder extending to the widow’s walk. The first cement sidewalk in the city extends from the house to the street and a picket fence enclosed the six lots. Originally, an attached building held the acetylene gas plant, as gas was used until the house was wired for electricity in 1903. Above the gas house was an octagon-shaped structure holding a Cyprus cistern. The cistern was fed from rain gutters on the roof. The yard contained a windmill/ tank, and a large 2-story barn with stalls for horses, corn crib and hay storage along with a room for the carriage. Other buildings included a chicken house, brick sweet potato house, pens for the livestock and a one-room servant’s house.

The Texas Historical Marker for the M.S. and Cora Alice Perry House reads: An Architectural Hybrid Incorporating Colonial Revival And Queen Anne Style Elements, The M.S. (1872-1919) And Cora Alice (1883-1970) Perry House Was Erected In 1917 And 1918. A Prominent Community Leader, Perry Was The Principal Owner Of Le Tulle Mercantile Co. The Perrys Designed The Home With Their Builder, George Schultz. The Home, Intended To Resist Turbulent Coastal Weather, Was Constructed Of Layered 1” X 12” Boards And Concrete Stucco. After Years As Apartments, It Was Restored In The 1970s. Mordello Stephen Perry (M.S.) was born in 1872 at Peach Point Plantation in Brazoria County. He was also the grand-nephew of Stephen F. Austin. Cora Alice Perry, his wife, was born in 1883 in Colorado County, Texas and they had four children. The Perry Family acquired 3 adjoining lots in 1906 for $900.00 where they began to build their home. The family moved into the house unfinished in November 1917 and completed work one year later. The house’s layered boards are built with one vertical and one horizontal. Using seven nails where normally four were sufficient, the house was stuccoed with metal lathe and concrete. The roof was cedar shingles. George Schultz was the builder and the Perrys were the designers. No architect or contractor was used in either the design or the construction. The downstairs rooms all opened to each other which were designed for entertaining. A hot water tank was built into the wall next to the fireplace in the library. This supplied hot water to the upstairs bathrooms. The kitchen boasted a double sink with drain board. The third floor was the children’s play area with plans made to someday have a ballroom there. Sadly with the death of M.S. in 1919 the third floor ballroom was never completed. The garage was located in the northwest corner of the property adjacent to the alley. The garage was large enough for two cars. In the southwest portion of the property a barn was constructed. The mules used by LeTulle Mercantile for deliveries were kept in the barn along with the

family’s horse. Pigeons were kept by M.S. in the loft of the barn and there were gardens with citrus trees on the southeast part of the property. Shortly after the death of her husband Mrs. Perry moved to Big Springs Ranch with her children. She sold the house in 1943. From 1943-1970, the home was owned by three different people and rented out to various tenants. First, as a boarding house and later divided into four apartments. In 1971 the house was purchased by Eddie and Jessica Jecmenek. It was in dire need of repair and major renovation. The chimneys and widow’s walk on the roof had been completely destroyed by a tropical storm. The Jecmeneks were very active in the city’s historical community and thoroughly researched the house before attempting restoration. Carefully studying early photos their goal was to restore everything as accurately as possible. The partitions for the apartments were removed with the original ceilings being cleaned and painted. The dining, living, music rooms and library were restored in Victorian décor with vintage wallpaper. The house was completely rewired and a new roof was put on. The front porch, which had been removed at some time, was faithfully restored; the hardwood floors all refinished and the doors restored to their original positions. This beautiful house in the hands of a family, who cares, has preserved its beauty and once again is opened for special occasions, just as it was almost one-hundred years ago. ✯

T H E C I T Y B U I LT B Y A L O T T E RY

nown as the Shrimp Capital of Texas and home of the oldest and largest shrimp festival in the state, Aransas Pass came into being in 1909. The city’s start is an interesting page in the annals of Texas history and we’ll be discussing the unusual nature of its birth. Named for the pass between Mustang Island and St. Joseph Island, Aransas Pass is located on the shores of Redfish Bay. The city was the dream of T.B. Wheeler, a former Lt. Governor of Texas and Russell Harrison, the son of former U.S. President, Benjamin Harrison. Wheeler would become known as the “Father of Aransas Pass”. Wheeler and Harrison owned 12,000 acres which stretched from present-day Palm Harbor to as far south as the Ingleside area. This land on Red Fish Bay would be sold in one of the biggest land sales ever held in South Texas and to accomplish this

task they hired real estate promoters, E.O. Burton and A.H. Danforth, to market the property. They soon come up with an idea to sell the land. They planned for 6,000 lots which they would sell by using a ticket representing each lot. Each ticket would sell for $100.00. The beauty of it was you didn’t have to pay the $100 for the ticket all at one time. They offered $10 down and $10 a month - with no interest! Each ticket was called a “certificate” by the promoters and since it was to be a lottery of sorts, they offered prizes. First prize was a three story, seventytwo room hotel situated on a corner of Main Street. Second prizes consisted of ten modern cottages built especially for the drawing, or “distribution” as the promoters called it. Third prizes consisted of 1,000 acres divided into farming tracts which ranged in size from five to forty acres and surrounded the town site of Aransas Pass. How could you lose? With over 1,011 prizes, the very least you could get for your $100 was a lot in the City of Aransas Pass! It was at this time the Aransas Pass Progress newspaper was born. Created as an advertising tool for the land sale, the developers

travelled across the Midwest on trains, following the wake of distribution of the newspaper and selling the land parcels. The sale was a huge success, despite the fact that some of the promotional money earned had to be returned because the Post Office said that their policy of drawing for lots constituted a lottery by mail and was illegal. Postal inspectors stepped in and forced competitive bidding rather than the agreed-on price of $100.

(An interesting side story resulting from the land lottery is that many people who bought these properties never saw them prior to purchase. Even today, people from around the country go into the local surveyor’s office, attempting to discover just exactly where their families bought land in the Aransas Pass Land Lottery of 1909.) It had been announced that a deep-water port would be built on the Texas Gulf Coast. Aransas Pass, along with its neighbors Rockport and Corpus Christi were all being considered for the site of this great port. Economically, Aransas Pass was the logical location to build the port as the dredging would only cost $713,000 and the annual maintenance around $15,000. Dredging and annual maintenance to Corpus Christi would cost approximately $2,500,000 and to Rockport about $1,575,000. How could it NOT be built at Aransas Pass? Answer: Politics!

By maintaining a full-time lobbyist in Washington D.C., the city of Corpus Christi, with the backing of some of the powerful and politically connected scions of its surrounding ranches, pulled the attention away from Aransas Pass and focused it much closer to home. Corpus Christi was chosen for the location of the Texas Gulf Coast deep-water port. Though Aransas Pass was not chosen for the new port it mattered not because by this time the town had been established. The citizens of Aransas Pass continued to harvest the bountiful bays of shrimp and fish and the community flourished.

L W HOTE BAY VIE

The local industry had its beginning in 1912 when G.E. (Bill) Minter shipped a barrel of shrimp to A. Jowdy in San Antonio for resale as fish bait. He got the shrimp for this first shipment from Kate and Nick Matthews, who caught them with a cast net. At that time no one thought of actually eating shrimp; they were only valuable to lure edible fish onto a hook. From this one barrel shipment of shrimp to millions of pounds of shrimp being shipped annually, the city’s harbor would grow to become home port to over 300 large shrimp trawlers and earn it the title of “Shrimp Capital of Texas”. The development of Aransas Pass

was primarily focused around the harbor, but the town continued to grow on all fronts. The school system had been established since 1892, when local Methodists erected a combination church and school; along with the first post office which opened during the same year. The city was incorporated in 1910 with W. H. Vernor being elected as Mayor and commission government being approved in 1952. Of the many interesting historical structures found in the historic downtown arts district is the Rialto Theatre. With its grand opening on November 5, 1937, the original theatr e seated 460 people in “air-conditioned comfort”, an extremely rare treat on the Texas coast at that time. Upholstered seating and an elevated incline permitted an unobstructed view of the screen, which was offered to theater patrons and much publicized. The present day Rialto continues as the cultural heart of the historic downtown arts district and serves as an art gallery and performing arts center. Nestled between Rockport and Port Aransas, the potential for future growth is limitless! ✯

“The citizens of Aransas Pass continued to harvest the bountiful bays of shrimp and fish and the community flourished”

HURCH AT CHRISTIAN C

SS ARANSAS PA

HISTORIC FULTON TREASURE AND

miss alene 74

he newest treasure in the town of Fulton is a trolley and her name is Miss Alene! Named after the first woman Mayor of Fulton, this trolley made her way to this sleepy little fishing village after a tour of duty in California where she served visitors to the campus of Azusa Pacific University. Decked out in vintage finery of gleaming wood, polished brass and etched glass, this girl only looks historic! She’s also equipped with air conditioning for cool riding in the summer months. The Town of Fulton has deep roots in early Texas history. Founded in 1866 the town was named after George W. Fulton, who built the Fulton Mansion. The Fulton Mansion Historic Site is on the trolley route. There are many historic and interesting spots in Fulton you’ll discover while touring on the trolley. Places you might not see otherwise while riding in air conditioned comfort on this vintage style trolley, all at no charge.

Where does she travel? Her route is everywhere in Fulton you’d want to go. All the “hot spots” are included in the trolley’s route and the great thing is you don’t need a car to get there! If you happen to be traveling by plane, simply take a cab to the hotel in Fulton and ride the trolley. When you arrive and you’ve got to do what Fulton is famous for right off, then grab your gear and take the trolley over to the famous Fulton Fishing Pier. Stay as long as you choose. The

All the “hot spots” are included in the trolley’s route and the great thing is you don’t need a car to get there! fish are always biting! Stay one hour or several hours, the choice is yours. Don’t worry about getting back, the trolley runs a one hour route Friday through Sunday, from 8am-10pm. When you’re ready hop back on the trolley and off you go. Plus, you’ll also be getting a beautiful tour of Fulton – for free! The trolley route includes 15 stops in Fulton starting at the Fulton Fishing Pier area. Across the Harbor area to the Fulton Convention Center and travels up Fulton Beach Road making stops at the Oyster House and the Sandollar Resort. Continuing up Fulton Beach Road the trolley makes stops at several hotels and then turns west, heading for Highway 35. Turning south Miss Alene continues making stops at hotels, restaurants and clubs along the 35 corridor and then turns east back toward the water. She completes her route on the waterfront, where many restaurants, shops and hotels are located, right in the heart of Fulton. Guess you could say that Miss Alene is a very handy girl. History buffs can enjoy a day of nothing but soaking up the local history. One of the stops on the trolley route is the Fulton Schoolhouse Museum, a genuine historic treasure. The original one-room schoolhouse was built in 1886, but destroyed in the 1940’s by a massive storm. The existing structure was built soon after and is a near replica of the original. Visitors will see the schoolhouse as it was, complete with vintage children’s desks sporting inkwell holes, a teacher’s desk, vintage school books, slates, switches and more. The original schoolhouse bell is presently installed at the Fulton Learning Center and it continues to “ring out” for students in the 5th Grade when they graduate every May. A wonderful handmade replica of the Fulton Mansion is on display as well. It was built by a winter visitor several years ago and then donated to the

FULTON SCHOOL HOUSE

Town of Fulton. There is even a small gift shop where visitors can purchase a memento of their visit to take back home. For those wishing to make donations they will be cheerfully accepted, but not demanded. The Fulton Schoolhouse is not only a fine museum it is a lovely reflection of the town’s heritage and as such, a proud icon which is loved and enjoyed by the community. The Stenson-Simpson Chapter of the Daughters of the Republic of Texas are custodians of the Schoolhouse, as well as being responsible for its’ museum status. The building is owned and maintained by the Town of Fulton and operates Saturday and Sunday, from 1pm-4pm. Tours for large groups or schools are available upon request. So jump on Miss Alene when you’re visiting the Town of Fulton and go to wherever it is your heart takes you. Now, that’s a vacation!. ✯

R E M E M B R A N C E

O F

A Ferry Boat Crossing

t’s 8p.m. and the sun has started to go down, as evidenced by the deepening shadows alongside the road. I left San Antonio a little earlier than normal, hoping to get into Port Aransas and be sitting on the beach as the sun went down. The last car pulls onto the ferry behind me and before you know it, the boat is moving and I’m cutting across the ship channel. I get out of my car and stand at the bow of the ferry, watching dolphins jockey for position as they ride the waves off the bow of a large tanker coming into port. I close my eyes and breathe deeply of the salt, the marine life and all that’s in the air. A feeling of familiarity and comfort envelope me, I’m home again!

As I take one last look backward, I can’t help but remember my very first Port Aransas ferryboat ride. I must have been somewhere between six and eight years old, when I first heard the word Lamar. “What’s a Lamar?” I asked my mom. She replied with “Where we’re going to on vacation this summer.” I remember whining like a spoiled child, “But we ALWAYS go to the coast for vacation!” My mother quickly explained and then it became a great new adventure in my mind. Why was it called “Lamar”? Who or what was Lamar? It seemed like the time would never come until we could load up the car and head down 181 to the place called Lamar! It was summer and the cotton was in bloom. Dad pulled off to the side of the road, where lots of cotton was growing. My brother and I got out of the car and to pick some cotton! Wow, I’ll never forget that experience. (It has become a family tradition when introducing someone new to some of the Coastal Bend communities for the first time.) Cotton “balls” in hand, we grabbed two glasses we found in the hotel room and promptly placed our plants in water so they could keep growing. Quite possibly we could have a new shirt in a matter of months! Ah, a child’s imagination. We were booked into the Sea Gun in Lamar, which was quite the place back then. A place where children could run around all day and night, and be entertained by the

simple things in life: a fishing pole and bait, feeding leftovers to seagulls, swimming, and baiting crabs at night. Guess you could really call it the “good old days”! The real fun came a few days later when my dad woke my brother and I before the sun came up so we could get ready and drive to Port Aransas for my first experience in deep sea fishing. There was something called a “Deep Sea RoundUp” and we were going to be a part of it! Excitement was in the air, and in the car, as the three of us raced from Lamar, down the highway and over to Port Aransas. Can’t miss the boat and it leaves promptly at 7a.m., with or without you! Imagine my face when we drove up to the ferry dock and here was the huge expanse of water and NO BRIDGE! The clock was ticking and no way to get across. All of a sudden my dad pointed in the distance and I could just barely make out the strangest looking boat I’d ever seen: one big tower, with a man sitting high up inside it looking through a glass panel, and a couple of men standing on the bottom, which was as flat as a pancake. This was a “ferry” boat? This was the coolest! As we drove the car onto the ferry my breath caught in my throat as my body felt the sway of the hull groaning under the weight of our vehicle. Were

“I close my eyes and breathe deeply of the salt, the marine life and all that’s in the air. A feeling of familiarity and comfort envelope me, I’m home again!”

we really sitting in our car AND on a boat, in the water, at the SAME TIME! This was the neatest thing that had ever happened in my life! My head returned to normal as I heard my dad call my name. I rushed over to his side of the railing and looked to where he pointed. Three dolphins were swimming alongside our ferryboat. Every so often, one dolphin would raise his head just out of the water, and a spray of water would come out of his blow hole. I swear if I’d stuck out my arm just far enough, I could have touched that dolphin! All of a sudden a huge black cloud came between the back of my head and the sun. As I slowly turned to see what it could be, a long, loud whoop, whoop, whoop was heard, and I realized I was probably not more than 100 yards away from a 10 story cargo tanker ship. Talk about big. I worried the ferryboat captain wouldn’t be able to out-run that big tanker ship!

But then that wouldn’t be giving my ferryboat captain enough credit. True to that thought, our ferryboat ride came to a complete and perfectly safe arrival into Port Aransas. Our captain had done a wondrous job having prevented a terrible calamity at sea, but that knowledge was unbeknownst to most of his passengers. Back in the present, I shake my head as my thoughts clear. My eye is suddenly drawn to what looks like a huge oil rig being taken through the ship channel on its way into the Gulf of Mexico. I return to my car and with a salute to “my” ferryboat captain, I drive off the ferry and onto Port Aransas firma. One last look in my rearview mirror, a short prayer for “safe sailings” and I’m off to spend my week on the beach! ✯ HE’S A

N ORIG

INAL A

ND TH

E REA

L DEA

Port Lavaca HISTORIC MAIN STREET THEATRE

ort Lavaca, a city with wonderful history, also has two well-guarded secrets. The first would be the Historic Main Street Theatre. Who hasn’t gone to the movies and been transported into another world? By the 1920’s movie theaters had become a big hit, and “going to the movies” was a “magical experience.” People loved the movie theaters so much they started calling them “picture palaces.” When you walked into the movie theater there would be ushers (all dressed up in fancy uniforms), and they would lead you to your seats. Some movie theaters were the size of cathedrals! Some featured not only movies, but also live performances such as plays and many other different types of live entertainment. Some movie theaters had marble-lined halls, with dance floors, restaurants, and art galleries. Movie theaters were magical places that not only entertained, but where people could go to catch up on what was happening in other parts of the world, watch a movie and go out to eat. In 1925-1926, America technologically revolutionized the entire movie industry, with the formation of the Vitaphone Company (a subsidiary created by Warner Brothers and Western Electric). Warner Bros. launched sound and talking pictures. The Jazz Singer in 1927 was a revolutionary film that was mostly silent-with only about 350 “spontaneously spoken” words, but the impact to movie goers at the time was astounding. In the 1930’s and 40’s the Port Lavaca Main Street Theatre thrived. Its News Reels opened a magic window to the world, crossed oceans, deserts and jungles, making available to people of the Coastal Bend what was transpiring in

RUSSELL & CHERRIE CAIN

Europe, North Africa, and throughout the Pacific. Often in graphic detail, it brought the Second Word War and other happenings around the country into their local movie theater just down the street. In Port Lavaca and surrounding Calhoun County that place was the Main Street Theatre and many folks went there whenever the film changed, often every week. Through the decades, the Main Street Theatre weathered hurricanes as well as changing technology. Many long-time residents have fond memories of going downtown for plays, movies and popcorn in a charming building with floor and balcony seating. As the commercial centers moved away from the downtown area, the theatre was deserted. Forgotten and neglected, it remained empty for thirty years, falling into disrepair. Enter the second well-guarded secret - a man. Every so often we find that certain someone. A person who works tirelessly behind the scene to accomplish those tasks which grow our cities, towns and communities; making them a better place in which to live. Someone who sets the stage for things to happen and at times, donates not only their time and energy but also helps with funding community projects that otherwise might take years to accomplish or, without their help, might never materialize. That certain someone in Port Lavaca happens to be Russell Cain. Just prior to junior high school, Russell arrived in Port Lavaca with this family. The year was 1956 and his father had taken a job at the new Alcoa plant. Moving from the Midwest, the family of six would soon settle in, quickly becoming an integral part of the community. Russell attended school and would graduate from Calhoun County High School home of the Fighting Sandcrabs. Upon graduation Russell attended college, earning his BBA from Texas A&M Kingsville (then Texas A&I University). From the beginning Russell Cain has been community minded. At a time when most young college graduates were leaving their hometowns for the big cities, Russell chose to stay in Port Lavaca. The simple reason being â&#x20AC;&#x201C; because he loved and felt passionate about his hometown. In 1972 he went into the real estate business and in just 2 years became the Broker/Owner of Russell Cain Real Estate with offices in Port Lavaca, Port Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor and Edna, Texas.

Always actively involved in the real estate business he has served on the Port Lavaca Calhoun County Board of Realtors in the positions of Director and Past President, garnering many awards from both the Texas and national associations of realtors. In 2000, Russell was one of only 25 people selected as “Most Influential Citizens of Calhoun County in the 20th Century”! A member of Grace Episcopal Church for over 30 years, Russell donated 5 lots to HABITAT for Humanity and secured the money needed to build the first of five homes. And, this is only the tip

of this man’s generosity toward the community he loves. Throughout his life Russell Cain has given back. An avid golfer, he has been chairman of many fund raising golf tournaments benefiting many local charities including the Calhoun County Humane Society (CCHS). A fan not only of golf, Russell and his wife Cherre are also animal lovers, with all of the family pets (dogs and cats) being rescue animals. Using his 65th birthday as an excuse, Russell held a golf scramble tournament which would benefit the CCHS. He asked that in honor of his birthday people would consider making a donation to benefit the animals and the response of the community to his request was incredible. Acquiring a love of theater while participating in drama class in high school, Russell Cain purchased the old Main Street Theatre in 1983, and through his fundraising efforts, the landmark structure was restored and

refurbished. On September 29, 1994, the Gala Grand Opening celebrated the resurrection of live theatre in Port Lavaca. Russell’s high school drama teacher Pat Jurek directed a live performance of “On the Night of January 16th” which included a cast of 24 people. Russell was there as a member of the cast, in which he played the role of a detective. The new theatre boasted a new stage, refurbished balcony, and 263 seats. With the theater once again a vibrant downtown landmark, Russell donated the theater to the Port Lavaca Main Street Committee in 1992. Like the Phoenix raising from the ashes, live theatre had returned to Port Lavaca. Through the volunteer work of many dedicated people, individual and company donations, grants, and especially neighborhood support, the moribund body of the

theater was brought back to life. Today residents and visitors alike can enjoy a number of plays, usually four or five productions each year, all showcasing some great talent, as well as country opry’s, fashion shows, and concerts. The Main Street Theatre stage shows will make you laugh, shed a tear, sing along, or simply have a good time. George Burns said, “When I am in front of an audience, all that love and vitality sweeps over me and I forget my age.” George, and every actor ever born, everyone at Main Street Theatre, actors and staff alike, thrives on that same energy brought by its audiences. The audience responses make their efforts worthwhile. ✯

Portland A CITY THAT FEEDS THE SENSES

he wind in your hair and the perfume of the sea will envelop you when you drive into Portland. The sensation is both elemental and physical in nature. The sky and water seem to be filled with colors of cerulean blue and turquoise, all dissolving into a brilliant green as the breeze dances on the water. When you look out across the bay a shining city can be seen in the distance, sparkling like a gem. Nothing can be heard but the wind, an occasional cry from a seabird and an absolute spiritual delight youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll savor in this communion with nature. The sound of fluttering sails catches the ear as a windsurfer dances on the water, gliding quickly down the shoreline while performing great feats of aerial ballet.

You’ll never want to leave this place, but a small trip to Indian Point Pier will make it worth your while. The sunsets are spectacular and amazing from every angle. You’ll be able to observe the many birds that are retiring for the evening headed home to their roosts. Laughter can usually be heard as a nearby fisherman hauls a good sized fish out of the water. Feelings of calm will envelop you and you’ll feel as though you’ve just been given a rare gift. This feeling of relaxation will stay with you the entire time you’re in Portland. Why come to Portland? The answer would be to relax and simply breathe. The city of Portland is situated on the second highest bluff on the Gulf Coast and overlooks both Nueces and Corpus Christi bays. The views from the city are breathtaking. The town’s founder John G. Willacy thought so too and he had a dream. Working a deal, he merged the New England Land Company of Portland, Maine, the New England Real Estate Company, and the Portland Harbor and Improvement Company of Wichita, Kansas, into one company and purchased 1,920 acres of land from the Coleman-Fulton Pasture Company in 1891. A 20-room hotel was built to accommodate buyers who would be taking part in a land sale scheduled to take place in July 1891.

The steamer “Mascot” was chartered to bring customers from Corpus Christi across the bay, and the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway ran special trains to accommodate the crowds of people that were continuously coming in. Lots worth more than $48,000 were sold during the first two days, and the “Cleopatra” was chartered to bring guests to a dance in the new hotel. By 1892 the population had reached 500. A 1,200-foot wharf was built and a post office authorized on March 9, 1891, business was brisk and the new town was booming - until the panic of 1893. The “boom” disappeared almost overnight and the hotel was closed. H a v i n g h e a r d a b o u t t h e v a cant hotel, a gentleman by the name of Thomas M. Clark, approached the owners and managed to buy the property. He started the “Bay View College”, which operated until it was destroyed by a storm in 1916.

During its’ early years Portland’s wharf facilities handled cotton that was grown in the area and was a rail shipping center for vegetables. With the irrigation of the Rio Grande valley the vegetable business declined and with it the dreams of establishing a port. The population in the town fluctuated over the years but began to hold steady in the 1940’s. With residents numbering 1,200, the city incorporated in 1949 and Daniel Moore was mayor. The Reynolds Metals Company broke ground for an industrial complex in 1952 and the growth has been steady ever since. The city of Portland today is very much a family oriented city. With one of the top notch school districts in the state covering a 101 square mile area, there are enrolled in excess of 4000 students from the Portland area. People have moved to the city because of its dedication to family values, its’ close proximity to Corpus Christ and the many amenities it has to offer. It is a wonderful place to raise a family and for over 43 years the city has hosted a weekend event focused around family fun activities with the annual Windfest event in April. When you go you’ll find plenty of comfortable hotels to choose from, as well as a wide array of restaurants to

enjoy, many offering local flavors and upscale dining. For your viewing pleasure the evening also brings colorful scenes from across the bay. Multicolored lights, changing patterns and colors, light your way to the Harbor Bridge which joins Portland with Corpus Christi, less than a 10-minute drive away. You can make out the shoreline from the lights which are reflected beautifully on the dark water. What a view! Wake up and take an early morning walk along Sunset Lake for the start of yet another fabulous day! Over 100 years ago, a map was filed at the county courthouse and Portland became official as the “Gem City of the Gulf Coast.” When you visit Portland you’ll know why. The phrases used to describe this vibrant and alive, yet relaxing city of “The land of leave it all behind,” and “Gem City of the Gulf Coast,” will certainly rung true. Portland - a paradise for families, friends, windsurfers, birders, walkers and people like you. ✯

ISTI US-CHR E-CORP G ID R -B R HARBOU

matagorda

CAR Art

AND THE NAVE MUSEUM

PHO

TO B

Y IR VIN

TEP

PER

he beautiful historic downtown of Victoria plays host each year to a unique and beautiful event. Presented by the Nave Museum and curated by Ann Harithas, this spectacular event features over fifty moving works of art created by some of the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most talented artists. A parade of all parades offers viewers one of the most fascinating displays of art cars in the country.

This unusual event is so much fun to watch and to see just how creative people can be, especially with something as large as a car or a truck! You’ll be amazed at what an automobile can be transformed into. The parade and exhibit is absolutely fascinating. In a word, it’s “moving.”

These award-winning cars are displayed at the Nave Museum following the parade so spectators can view these works of art up close. Art car creators are also on hand explaining the “inner workings” and “behind-the-scene” methods which went into the creation of their masterpieces. This is a rare opportunity for an intimate look inside these innovative, individual and artistic vehicles and to meet their creators!

Event curator, Ann Harithas, is a world renowned artist, has been a judge at the annual Orange Show Houston Art Car Parade for over 25 years and co- Where the art cars are displayed is as unique and extraordinary as the cars themselves. founder of the famous Art Car Museum in Houston. The museum (nicknamed The Nave Museum is the majestic Greek revival building located at the corner of the “Garage Mahal”) showroom celebrates the spirit of the post-modern age Moody and West Commercial. This “temple” dedicated to Art was designed by noted of car-culture, in which artists have remolded stock cars to the specifications San Antonio architect Atlee Ayers in 1932. It was built to serve as a memorial to the of their own images and visions. Featuring elaborate art cars, low-riders and artist Royston Nave. mobile contraptions, as well as exhibitions by local, national, and international artists, the Art Car Museum’s mission is to elevate awareness of the political, Royston Nave was born in La Grange, Texas, on November 5, 1886 and was economic, and personal dimensions of art. the son of Jack and Lou (Royston) Nave. His first art instruction came from his

mother, a well-known Texas painter, who encouraged her son’s talent. Spending part of his boyhood in San Antonio, Royston was painting and honing his craft in Fort Worth by the age of twentyfour. He traveled to New York and began studying the art of Irving Wiles and Lawton Parker among others. He became well known for his landscape paintings of the American west. It was in New York that Nave became renowned for his portrait work, of which he had many one-man exhibitions. Leaving New York, he served as an artillery officer in the Army during World War I; after having served two years, Royston quickly returned to New York to paint. His work was soon being shown in the National Academy School of Fine Arts in New York and in the Pennsylvania Academy of Art, Philadelphia. Royston was also a member of the Salmagundi Club, one of the oldest art clubs in the United States. Returning to Victoria to study with his mentor, J. Ferdinand McCan, Royston Nave met and married Emma McFaddin McCan. Back in his native Texas, Nave continued to paint the landscape he was so fond of, as well as commissioned portraits. One of his most well-known, a portrait of Rebecca Fisher, the “Mother of Texas,” is in the extensive collection of the State Capitol in Austin. His career included exhibitions not only in New York, but also the Carnegie International Exhibition of 1919 in Pittsburgh, as well as numerous regional and national competitions. Royston Nave was described as a “rapid painter”. He traveled widely, continuously painting and sketching. His primary interests were people

92 PHOTO BY IRVIN TEPPER

and the outdoors, particularly the landscape of Texas. His works include landscapes, seascapes, Texas wildflowers, still-life, and portraits in oil, mostly in the contemporary style. On February 26, 1931, Royston Nave suffered a fatal heart attack while visiting his brother in Harlingen. The Royston Nave Memorial, now the Nave Museum, was commissioned by his widow, Emma McFaddin McCan Nave, and opened in 1932 to house Nave’s paintings and contain the library of the Bronte Study Club. When the Victoria Library on Main Street was built in 1976, Mrs. Nave’s heirs, the McCan family, deeded the building to the city to be used as an art museum for the region. The city in turn rented the building to the newly created Victoria Regional Museum Association, formerly the McNamara-O’Connor Historical and Fine Arts Museum, to operate as a visual arts center. In December 2003 the city deeded over the property to the Victoria Regional Museum Association. The Nave Museum features six to eight diverse and compelling exhibits each year, both classical and modern, ranging from portraiture and landscapes by celebrated Texas artist Royston Nave, to Art Car Victoria, to a Dia de los Muertos/Day of the Dead Festival featuring retablos and altars created by local artists, as well as free children’s workshops hosted by the Manhattan Art Program. With their “Pay What You Want” admission, The Nave encourages you to visit and enjoy the exhibits. You decide what you would like to give to support their mission of “Reaching out to enrich, enlighten and educate through visual and cultural art.” Art comes alive at the Annual Art Car Victoria and at The Nave. ✯

A FAMILY VACATION OF FUN AND DISCOVERY

matagorda C O U N T Y

f you’re looking for a great place to take your family this summer that includes great fishing, fun days at the beach, kayaking down the Colorado River, or just relaxing and taking in some rich historical ambiance, along with fine dining and shopping, then Matagorda has you covered.

Relax and enjoy the friendly natives. You can stay in a motel or lodge, a historic bed and breakfast, rent an RV space or pitch a tent on the beach. Almost fifty-five miles in Matagorda County is the Gulf of Mexico’s shoreline. Twenty miles of beach is accessible by car and the remaining thirty-five miles by boat. The beach is a paradise isolated from much of the public and is a beachcomber’s dream. There are always treasures to discover. From driftwood, bottles, sand dollars and old Spanish coins, even petrified bones and fossils have been found.

Matagorda is also full of history to discover. Back in the day when Mexico owned the land we now know as the State of Texas, the tiny coastal town of Matagorda was the third largest port in the territory. The Mexican government was worried that the French and Native American Indians would take over the territory, so in 1827 they hired Stephen F. Austin to bring colonists to the mouth of the Colorado and build a town. In exchange for the free land grant, the colonists had to become Mexican citizens and Roman Catholics. Fifty-two families from New York and New England became the first settlers. The town was abandoned during the Mexican invasion but Matagorda County was formed when the people returned after the Battle of San Jacinto and made Matagorda the county seat in 1836. The town quickly prospered and soon boasted a newspaper, as well as several schools. Soon, the second largest port in Texas, Matagorda developed transportation and industry. Immigrants by the hundreds disembarked at this port to take up land grants in the colonies of Stephen F. Austin. The oldest house/building in Matagorda County was built in 1832 and is located on St. Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street in the town of Matagorda. Built by early colonist Samuel R. Fisher, it has been fully restored and now operates as the Stanley-Fisher House Bed and Breakfast. The house is listed as a Texas Historic Landmark and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Early colonist Samuel Rhoads Fisher was also the first Secretary of the Republic of Texas Navy and a signer of the Texas Declaration of Independence. More than likely, Stephen F. Austin and Sam Houston were guests in the house from time to time.

Matagorda Cemetery is a Historic Texas Cemetery and is one of the earliest cemeteries in Texas. It was founded soon after the town was settled. Those buried there include soldiers of the Texas Revolution, War of 1812 and the Civil War, along with victims of Karankawa Indian attacks. Several patriots of early Texas are buried there as well, including Samuel Rhoads Fisher.

Having withstood the tests of time and the elements, the house has been restored to its original splendor with modern amenities for guests. A true bed and breakfast, a home-cooked breakfast is served to houseguests by their hosts.

The first Episcopal Church in Texas was built in Matagorda in 1838 and this church as well as other early churches, continue to conduct services today. Historical markers and buildings are in the ball park located on Fisher between Laurel and St. Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Streets. One historical building served as a post office for over 50 years and is preserved as a museum. The Garden Club occupied a building that once served as a local meat market and in 2013 the old school house where the children of black families attended, was moved to the park and restored. It is used for monthly meetings by the Matagorda Historical Society and is also open to the public on historical occasions such as Matagorda Day and Black History events.

DAY TRIPS Take a drive over to Palacios and stop by the historic Luther Hotel. The hotel is a local treasure and historic landmark, and has been serving guests continuously for over 112 years! Owner/operator Jack Findley (a treasure himself) is committed to your comfort and satisfaction, making the Luther a getaway that will leave you renewed and refreshed. What a porch and what a view! A living piece of history! A great place to visit also is the town of Blessing. No trip to Matagorda County is complete without enjoying a great breakfast or lunch at the Blessing Hotel Café. Located in the historic Blessing Hotel, it’s definitely worth a short drive. But bring an appetite! Have you ever seen a swing bridge? A short jump over from the Town of Matagorda is the fishing village of Sargent. Lots of great fishing and the last swing bridge in Texas. If you’ve never seen or experienced a swing bridge, now’s your chance! If you’re in need of a non-beach activity to bring some zing to your family vacation, take a short twenty minute drive over to Bay City. It’s a straight shot from Matagorda. Bay City is the county seat for Matagorda County and is a treasure trove of fine dining and great places to shop for lovers of antiques and fashion alike. With a beautiful old town square that features a wonderful Market Day event every month, Bay City also has a wonderful history museum - with a special section devoted entirely to children. Featuring a hands-on interactive Children’s Museum, your kids will love dressing-up and discovering what it was like to live back in the olden days. Also, be sure and stop by the Matagorda County Nature Birding Center in Bay City. It has great hiking trails and the friendly folks at the Visitor Center will provide you with a map and you can begin exploring. Your family will discover the rare beauty and abundant nature which co-exist along the Colorado River. There’s even a spot for launching your kayaks. Chase butterflies, see beautiful flowers and birds. You might even spot an alligator! Pass by ponds, streams, the Colorado River and children will love the many turtles and minnows located along the riverbank. Take a picnic and make a day of it. ✯

M E M O R I E S

O F

THE SANDOLLAR A

ransas County is known for its’ wind swept oaks. Located in Lamar is the ancient and majestic Live Oak known as “The Big Tree”, Fulton Beach Road has a variety of windswept oaks but set back on the bluff overlooking Aransas Bay, other grand and majestic oaks are hiding. Atop a bluff just off Fulton Beach Road, sits such a grove of oaks that almost seem magical; their large branches giving shade and beauty to a Fulton icon, the Sandollar Resort. Built sometime between the late 1940’s and mid-1950’s the Sandollar was THE place to see and be seen. It still is, depending on who you are. The rumor is they’re pretty picky who they let stay there and with their prestige it’s rightfully so.

It’s been 50 years since I came to Fulton with my family and stayed at the Sandollar but I can still pick out the rooms we shared. The restaurant is no longer there but in its’ place occupies an almost enchanted setting. The grounds have always been immaculate and the oak trees will take your breath away, but a section of the restaurant wall was left standing as a witness to the history and spirit of the place. I happened to attend a reception at the Sandollar a few months ago; a husband and wife who have been coming to the resort for close to 40 years were renewing their vows and the setting was the very spot I mentioned. Tucked back under a canopy of oaks is an outdoor courtyard. The wall is constructed of a lava rock type material that was popular in the 1940’s to the early 1960’s and the entire section was a giant waterfall off the restaurant. With the closure of the restaurant this area was not used and the ravages of time had not been kind. This courtyard area has recently been transformed into a tropical wonderland of beautiful plants, trees, meandering paths and steps leading onto a large patio area that was perfect for a gathering of 100-plus. There is even still plenty of room for a band and lots of dancing. I asked around and it was revealed this courtyard was indeed the outdoor dancing area during the restaurant years. There must definitely be a spirit here watching over, because a labor of love was what turned back the clock bringing this piece of glorious 50’s history back to life – and with a purpose! Its’ the perfect setting and size, for just about any type of happening you could imagine. Oh, I might have forgotten to mention that it was the groom who transformed this space into a tropical masterpiece. There’s a reason he and his wife keep returning to the Sandollar year after year.

After the reception I wandered around the grounds of the Sandollar and began to reminiscence of my visit so long ago. The year was 1960 and we were coming in for the Deep Sea Roundup held in Port Aransas. Back then there weren’t many choices for places to stay in Port Aransas. The Tarpon Inn, to the best of my recollection, was the only hotel at the time and we were too late in calling for a reservation. The hotel was booked. On the recommendation of a friend, my parents had made a reservation at the Sandollar. This was a special vacation because my mother’s parents were visiting from Louisiana and had decided to accompany us on our family outing. Upon arrival at the Sandollar I can remember what seemed to me like a large resort with rooms sitting on either side of the entrance from the road and the car climbing up what seemed to be a paved high hill. Crowning the top of the hill was a “builtin” swimming pool with two diving boards; one of normal height and another one that looked as though it reached to the sky. I was in awe. I pictured myself doing a perfect swan dive into that beautiful pool of water. My father had reserved several rooms so my grandparents could have a bit of peace and quiet away from two rowdy children and a toddler. While the grown-ups settled our luggage in our rooms, my brother and I explored the grounds. Directly across the street was a great fishing pier and on the grounds of the Sandollar were large oak trees with their branches growing up to the sky with a noticeable slant from the constant wind blowing in from Aransas Bay. The next morning dawned early and the room was chaos. This was in part because my father and brother were in the process

100

of getting ready for the big deep sea fishing event. I finished a great breakfast and went sightseeing around Fulton with my mom and grandma. As soon as we got back to the hotel I grabbed my fishing rod and walked to the pier to see what was biting. Sitting on that pier with the hot sun on my back I was surprised at how happy and peaceful I was. Taking in everything around me it was at that moment I fell in love with this place. It probably didn’t hurt I managed to catch quite a few noteworthy fish in the meantime. The men had returned from their deep sea adventure and we all joined in the excitement of that huge Jack Fish my brother had caught. That evening and the following day were fun filled times spent cooking and eating the fish we’d caught, playing in that beautiful pool, wading in the bay and catching crabs on the pier at night. It was a time for discovery and learning about who I was to become. When I got home that evening I began looking through some of the old family photo albums and found ones from that vacation. An idea began to form. My grandchildren were coming down soon to spend a week with me in Fulton. Why not take my family and stay at the Sandollar? What a wonderful way for my grandchildren to experience the fun and discovery I enjoyed when I was their age. The arrangements were made and I felt as excited about this vacation as I had so many years ago. The day arrived and as we pulled into the Sandollar Resort my heart began to soar. My grandchildren were thrilled and I was delighted to find our rooms from so long ago had been updated and was bright, cheery and comfortable. Just about everything you

could ask for had been taken into account. From the beds to a full tub shower, fully equipped kitchens (which were used for cooking those fish we caught off the pier), and wonderful picture windows with waterfront views. It couldn’t have been more perfect. Cable television for the kids and Wi-Fi for me were also included in our rooms, and the kids were thrilled that even the furry four-legged members of our family were welcome. As it turned out, the first full day of our vacation the kids managed to catch enough fish off the pier to feed everyone in our party. The barbeque and picnic area came in quite handy. Although the Deep Sea Roundup was not on the schedule, the kids kept themselves entertained for hours between fishing, volleyball and shuffleboard. One of my biggest thrills was having my grandchildren enjoying themselves outdoors with the added bonus of the 24 hour Laundromat. No need for worries about kids with dirty clothes. Another big plus for me was in never having to leave Fulton! Shopping, great restaurants, entertainment and sightseeing - everything was right there! Too soon our vacation was over. Looking at the pictures taken of this special time, I couldn’t help remembering my visit there so long ago, and quietly said a special “thank you” to my Sandollar for staying true to my old childhood memories, knowing my grandchildren would cherish theirs as well. ✯

101

THE HEARTH OF THE COASTAL BEND

INGLESIDE B

PHOTOS BY LOUIS E CURTIS JR.

ack in 1854 George C. Hatch purchased land on both sides of a bayou which was situated on a bay. He later acquired over 3,800 acres of land, which he then sold to Walter Ingalls, Henry Nold, James Aware, John Pollard, John W. Vineyard and a few others. A community began to form and it was the beginning of something big! Legend has it that the town was named by Vineyard, who christened the site after his ancestral home in Scotland. He dubbed it Ingleside, which means “fireside”.

Back in the day the early communities of Ingleside were known as Old Ingleside, Inwood, Ingleside Cove, Ingleside-on-the-Bay, Palomas, Cove City and Cove, and the folks that lived there built homes on the bayou and at Ingleside Cove. George and Marcellus Turner settled in the area in 1855 and two years later Marcellus obtained a grant for the first post office. A local general store was opened by George Hatch and Youngs L. Coeman with Henry Nold II who operated the Ingleside Male and Female Academy, often referred to as “Nold Academy”. Mr. Nold operated the boarding school from 1857 until it was destroyed by Union soldiers in 1862. During this period of development, Ingleside’s primary industries were farming and ranching, that is until the 1880s, when George Hatch and his son John introduced grape culture to the area. The grape culture was soon developed into a flourishing business which lasted over 50 years - until the vines were killed by blight! Situated on Corpus

102

Christi Bay, the City of Ingleside played host to the many steamships plying the waters of the bay between Corpus Christi and Ingleside, carrying trade goods from far away parts. The railroad finally made it down with the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway completed in Aransas Pass in 1887 - but it bypassed Ingleside! Palomas (also known as Loma) was then established as a flag stop for the railroad. Residents flocked there to set up a new town site on the railroad in 1893, and real estate developers built a large hotel on the cove. In 1909 developers Burton and Danforth laid out the present Ingleside town site, and in 1913 the Ingleside Common School District was formed with 80 students

attending class. In 1916 a hurricane destroyed many of the buildings that had built up in the town, with growth in the area stagnating. Grape production returned and was a booming industry between 1910 and 1920. The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic mainstay was fishing and vegetable production - until the vegetable sheds were closed in the 1950s. In 1927, Humble Oil built a tank farm at Harbor City or Port Ingleside, and announced plans for a refinery in Ingleside. Construction boomed with the building of a housing complex, complete with paved streets and their own sewer for Humble employees. Ingleside experienced a period of growth and prosperity, during this

103

period with two local newspapers being published, the Review and the Index. But Ingleside’s prosperity was shorted lived. In 1944-1945 a labor dispute resulted in Humble closing the plant and putting it up for salvage sale. Brauer Corporation opened an aluminum fabrication plant in 1948, and Reynolds Metal followed suit in 1950, opening a plant only five miles away. DuPont followed and a local plant was built in 1973. Ingleside developed primarily as a residential area and was incorporated in 1951. In 1954, the Corps of Engineers cut a channel, La Quinta Channel, through Ingleside Point, thereby demarking an area known as Ingleside-onthe-Bay. This is where the United States Navy planned to open its Homeport in 1995! The population of Ingleside grew steadily after 1972 and in 2000 Ingleside had a population of 9,388 - one-third of which were active duty naval personnel! What happens when a military base is closed? We often hear of military base closures - the recommendations, the fears of communities who face such huge economic upheaval, and the actual closings, but what happens after a military base leaves? What happened in the community of Ingleside over the past twenty years

104

offers a view into growth, risk, and overcoming obstacles. Ingleside was a community prior to the Navy’s interest. When the Navy’s courtship began, the concerns were predictable - who and what would such an installation attract to the small town? Would crime increase? Would it alter the community to the point of making it unrecognizable to those living there? Yet, growth requires some risk, so the community of Ingleside welcomed the Navy. In 1990, the Naval Station at Ingleside, Texas began operations. Originally, the plan was that Naval Station Ingleside would be Homeport for the USS Lexington, and USS Wisconsin. Between 1990 and 1991 due to changes in military structure, both of these vessels were decommissioned with Lady Lex stationed there from Jan. 29, 1992 until June 17, 1992, when she was towed to her new berth in Corpus Christi. In May of 1991, the Secretary of the Navy announced plans to homeport Avenger Class mine countermeasures ships and Osprey Class coastal mine hunters at Ingleside, and subsequent construction continued to support what was now designated the Navy’s “Mine Warfare Center of Excellence.” Niki Shugart, with the Chamber of Commerce in Ingleside, explained that, in spite of the fears of some in the community, on the whole, the naval presence was beneficial. “It was a great mix, and the sense of community did not change.” Yet world events would continue to shape changes in the U.S. Military, and in 2005, Naval Station Ingleside was on the BRAC (Base Closure and Realignment) list. Like so many communities on the BRAC list at the time, new fears emerged. Many residents were young families worried about the effects of the base closure. Would Ingleside become a ghost town? How would the military’s departure affect jobs, property values, and schools?

Very real concerns indeed, but military bases serve the purpose of defense, rather than maintaining the cities where they are located. In 2010, Naval Station Ingleside was officially shut down and ownership was returned to the Port of Corpus Christi. When the base closed, some who had been affiliated with the base and the Navy chose to stay. I talked to such a person who wished to remain anonymous, but explained that he really liked the area and the community of Ingleside, and so, chose to make it his home. “I found a home here, a real sense of community, and when the Navy left, I chose to stay. There are others who made the same choice.” Some cities don’t recover from such a huge economic hit, but Ingleside has survived and continues to thrive. The Port of Corpus Christi sold the property to Occidental Petroleum Corporation (Oxy) in 2012, and development continues at the site. Ms. Shugart explained that the industrial concerns in Ingleside work hard to be responsive to the community, and are of great economic and social benefit. I asked her to describe the difference between Ingleside pre-Navy and post-Navy. She took some time to consider the question and explained that the sense of being a community has not changed, but the community itself has become stronger. “This community has learned that flexibility is important to growth. We have adapted and prospered as a result.” This statement is quite apparent as you explore the city and its’ surrounding communities. With a superior “Recognized” public school system, a high quality of life that is affordable, and family-friendly, splendid park facilities, close proximity to the water, centered between Corpus Christi, Rockport and the Gulf of Mexico, the strength of community is apparent everywhere! Ingleside, the Hearth of the Coastal Bend. Welcome to their fireside. ✯

105

Bethel Lutheran Church

OF LYFORD, TEXAS

he small community of Lyford is located on State Highway 448, between Farm roads 498 and 1921 - only five miles due south from Raymondville. The town received its name from William H. Lyford, who was an attorney for the Chicago and Eastern Illinois Railroad. The first railroad, the St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico Railway, was built through on July 4, 1904, and with 34,000 acres having been purchased for $9.00 an acre from the King Ranch, the town of Lyford was soon developed on this tract. Between 1904 and 1906 Lyford was a tent city. The Lyford Realty Company was soon organized, and the plat for Lyford was filed in March of 1907. During this year Pioneer Hall was built and was the first structure which was used for public worship, a school, and a place for other gatherings. Located within this community is a wonderful historic jewel with a fascinating history. The incredible art treasure contained therein is nothing short of breathtaking. This jewel is the Bethel Lutheran Church and the story of the construction and what it contains is both moving and inspiring.

106

THEIR STORY

Their Story The year 1913 saw new Swedish Lutheran settlers moving into the small community of Lyford. They naturally socialized with other Swedes, Methodists and Mission Covenant Members. They gathered for worship at the Mission Church in the Turner Tract, then known as “Stockholm,” and now indicated by a historical marker a couple miles West of Lyford on route 491. However, to retain their Lutheran heritage, they withdrew from the Union Church group and began meeting in family homes. The Swedes had brought with them their “flyttningsbetyg” (Letter of Transfer) with intention to affiliate with a Lutheran Church. After surveying their situation, the Augustana Synod in 1916 sent Pastor O.H. Sylvan to Lyford to organize Bethel Evangelical Lutheran Church, Lyford, Texas. Pastor Sylvan made monthly trips to Lyford to nurture and spiritually guide this fledgling flock.

his brother Sven worked the farm. With his own hands and strength, Carl constructed to the glory of God, the building in which they worshiped. The same year English Services were begun and in 1930 the church was officially dedicated. A hurricane in 1933 did considerable damage to the building, necessitating the installation of existing cross braces. It was not until 1939, that Bethel received a

In 1917 ten acres of land in the Turner Tract were given to the congregation. Although they did not build the church there, they referred affectionately to the land as “The Holy Land.” In 1925 the congregation bought two lots in Lyford for a building site on which Mr. Carl Vassberg built the church donating his considerable skill and seven months of continuous labor, while

107

full time pastor. In 1949, which was a year of grace, the parish hall was dedicated; with the church mortgage ceremoniously burned. In 1952, the church became self-supporting and work began on a new parsonage. In 1959 the note on the parsonage was paid and Bethel became a Mission Builder for Walnut Hill Church in Dallas, Texas. Christ is the Heritage and Faith of Bethel Lutheran Church. It has and continues to be, committed to serve the Lord in witnessing to his Love through Faith, caring and helping needy from the Rio Grande Valley to even distant parts of the world. While basically a hard working farm community, many of their people keep well informed about issues. Some have traveled to various parts of the world. They are as comfortable in singing a Bach Chorale, as Amazing Grace. They enjoy a variety of worship experiences, while at the same time, sensitive to the traditions of the church. Although, the membership has remained relatively small, many have come out of this lovely church family to enrich the life of other congregations from coast to coast. They continue to carry with them, the Lordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sprit of serving with compassion and caring. The workmanship and effort put forth by Carl in the building of this lovely old historic church reflects the love, compassion and caring this congregation still carries with them today. Inside the church another treasure dwells. A manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love and compassion intertwined with his God given talent, which are as unique and awe inspiring as the church itself.

CELE

BRAT

108

ING T

HEIR

5OTH

E RTGAG

ANNI

EIR MO

VERS

ARY

G TH BURNIN

CARL VASSBERG (ABOVE) AND SVEN VASSBERG (BELOW)

Walter Henry Lueth is a woodcarver. He’s known to his friends as simply Wally or Walt. He carves under the name of W. Henry Lüth, with the umlaut above the “u” indicating his German heritage. Wally began his career as a young apprentice in the furniture and fixture business. After achieving his goals along those lines, he retired and began carving. His carving of human faces are the results of his studies with such expert carvers as Harold Enlow, and artists such as Maurice Harvey, Giles Jacques Cloutier and Daniel Beauchand, all of St. Jean Port Joli, Quebec. Further studies under Benn Bunyar, nationally known stone sculptor of Independence, Missouri enhanced Wally’s skill for carving faces. After teaching these skills to others for several years, Wally began to get inquiries about writing a book. He self-published the first edition of “Carving the Female Face” in 1990. At the age of eighty-one, Wally began a project for the Bethel Lutheran Church. He began carving the faces of each of the twelve apostles of Jesus. Such as each of us possess a face which is unique to us alone, reflective of individual characteristics which life has refined and honed, each apostle was given by this master carver a face reflective of his unique individual traits and character. There were no photographs or paintings made of these disciples during their lifetime. Any known existing art are the individual artists’ representation of what they could have looked like based on the time period in which they lived and their relationship to the Lord, Jesus. As Wally contemplated his new project he became fearful. There were no

pictures of the apostles and he had up to that time never carved a man’s face. He studied and researched before he began carving, and before he made the first cut into the wood he actually received a vision in his dreams of what his subject looked like. While viewing these wonderful works of art up close you realize that each is as unique, apart and separate as all humans are. In a word each carving hanging in this beautiful old church is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. This lovely and lovefilled dwelling of the Lord in the small town of Lyford has truly been blessed. Those that enter come away with a feeling they too have been witness to something greater than they. The Bethal Lutheran Church thanks the Lord for the privilege of serving Him in this place and pray He will guide them to serve His will and proclaim His love in the years to come. ✯

“HANDING DOWN OUR HERITAGE TO OUR CHILDREN” In the words of Svante Palm, a pioneer in Texas in 1868:

“We must be zealous about the good name of our forefathers. This is accomplished by living daily, not only honorably, but as true Christians. Let us hand down this heritage to our children and to posterity; keep it in precious remembrance among those who in The Future Will Take Our Place.” —Mrs. Sven Vassberg 109

PORT LAVACA: CITY OF HEROES

Angelina Eberly A

city in Calhoun County is filled with ghosts. Port Lavaca was born after a horrific Comanche raid destroyed the town of Linnville in 1840 and the ghosts of Texas legends are present everywhere. The city has been home to people who are heroes in Texas history books. From the days of the Republic to the Civil War, many have lived and died in Port Lavaca. Walk the historic downtown and if you listen, you’ll hear the stories these ghosts share willingly. Situated on a bluff overlooking the waters of the bay, rests the city of Port Lavaca. The city is made-up of and melds with the rich culture of its’ historical past but also embraces its’ present and future lives. Nearby swimming beaches, bait and tackle shops, boat ramps, restaurants, shops and hotels, all share space with the many ghosts of Texas past.

SAM HOUSTON

110

One such ghost who made Port Lavaca her home was Angelina Belle Peyton Eberly. Angelina was an innkeeper and the heroine of the Archive War. She has been called the “Archive War Cannoneer”. Say what? Yes, you heard right…a woman who single handedly manned a cannon 172 years ago? WOW! It wouldn’t be wrong to say that Angelina was an unusual woman for her time. Born in 1798 in Tennessee, she married her first cousin, Jonathan C. Peyton, when she was twenty and they were soon off to New Orleans, headed for Matagorda Bay. They arrived on the ship “Good Intent” in June 1822. Texas at this time was still owned by Mexico and they went to war to keep it. After living in several settlements, they made their home in the Texas capital town of San Felipe de Austin where they operated an inn and tavern. Jonathan died in June 1834, leaving Angelina with three children to care for. She continued to operate the inn until the town was destroyed to keep it from falling into Mexican hands. As the Texas Revolution continued, there were papers that documented the workings of the interim government of the newly created Republic of Texas. Government officials always carried these “archives” with them for safekeeping, as they evacuated to other towns while trying to stay ahead of the ever advancing Mexican Army. When the war ended, Columbia became the capital city of the Republic and the archives were located there. At the wish of President Sam Houston, the center of Texas government and the archives were then moved to more adequate quarters in Houston.

Over the next several years, the Comanche staged many raids very close to Austin. The citizens in and around the city of Houston, with the help of the Houston Morning Star newspaper, used these raids as evidence to support their argument that the capital and archives should be returned to Houston. At this time Mirabeau B. Lamar had become the second president of the republic and it was he who chose Austin as the capital. The archives would remain there. In 1841, Sam Houston would again become president. He disliked the city of Austin and referred to it as “the most unfortunate site on earth for a seat of government”. He refused to move into the official residence and instead took a room at the boarding house run by Angelina. Once elected though, Houston didn’t waste any time. He quickly made his plans to move the capital back to Houston. Unfortunately for him, congress rejected his proposal.

Angelina moved to Columbia after the Texas Revolution and in 1836 she met and married Captain Jacob Eberly, a widower. Living briefly in Bastrop the couple settled in the new capital city of Austin in 1839 where the archives had been transferred. Angelina ran a boarding house there which they named the “Eberly House”. She was a popular hostess and excellent innkeeper, but sadly she became a widow for the second time when Jacob died in 1841.

111

Unfazed, he then ordered the secret removal of the archives and instructed they be taken to Washington-on-the-Brazos for safekeeping. (The name “Washington-on-the-Brazos” was used to distinguish the settlement from “Washington-on-thePotomac”. It was founded when Texas was still a part of Mexico and it became the site of the Convention of 1836 and the signing of the Texas Declaration of Independence. Washington-on-theBrazos is known as “the birthplace of Texas”) Over twenty men and three wagons drove into Austin on the morning of December 30, 1842. They were there under President Sam Houston’s orders to smuggle out the archives. As they were loading the archives from the General Land Office into the wagons, Angelina spotted them! MIRABEAU B. LAMAR

She ran down the street to where a 6-pound howitzer was situated, turned the small cannon toward the General Land Office, and fired it! The sound of the cannon fire woke the residents who thought they were under attack. The smugglers left quickly, heading northeast to avoid patrols. Two clerks from the General Land Office had gone with them to make sure the archives were not harmed or modified. It was slow going. A heavy downpour made roads barely passable for the slow-moving oxen. The group managed to travel about eighteen miles before stopping for the night at Kinney’s Fort along Bushy Creek. Back in Austin, a posse of men had gathered to rescue the archives. Some of these men didn’t have a horse or even a weapon. They reached the smugglers’ encampment in the middle of the night and entered undetected because no guards had been posted. In short order the documents were safely secured and they returned to Austin. Angelina was declared the heroine of Austin for spoiling the president’s attempts to return the capital of Texas to his namesake – Houston. Angelina always had a keen eye for business and realized the importance of what was happening close to Lavaca at the town known as Indian Point. She left the capital of Austin; moved to Lavaca, the county seat of Calhoun County and leased a tavern house from Edward Clegg. With the rapid growth of immigration and commerce being experienced at Indian Point, she later moved to the town and established her own hotel in April of 1848. The following year the name of the town was changed. Mrs. John Henry Brown felt the word “Indian” should be kept and added the Spanish word for wave which is “ola”, and the new name became Indianola. The heroine of the Archive War died in Indianola on August 15, 1860. Angelina Belle Peyton Eberly was buried in a cemetery outside the community and her grandson, Peyton Bell Lytle, was named sole heir to her estate which was valued at $50,000. On September 15, 1875 a powerful hurricane struck, killing between 150 and 300 and almost entirely destroying the town. Her burial place and headstone were destroyed. In 1978 the Texas

112

Historical Commission erected a marker near Port Lavaca. The Marker is at the intersection of Farm to Market Road 316 and Zimmerman Road, on the left when traveling south on Route 316. Two other markers are less than one-half mile from Angelina’s. Indianola and Rene Robert Cavelier Sieur de la Salle. If you’re planning a family vacation over the summer, some fun and interesting things to do can be found in Port Lavaca. Plan on an overnight stay at one of the great hotels located within walking distance of the Beach Park and your family will be thrilled at what there is to do and see. Play on the beach, shop and discover all the fascinating things you’ll find in the historic downtown area. Great restaurants, shopping and exploring all the many places where ghosts like Angelina still whisper their stories. WRITER’S NOTE: An interesting side note to this story is that of a claim for monies made by then Republic of Texas House Clerk, Thomas William (“Peg Leg”) Ward to Angelina Eberly. Peg Leg had immigrated to Canada from Ireland in 1828, when he was twenty-one. He made his way down to New Orleans and answered the call for volunteers to fight the Mexican army marching across Texas. He helped organize the New Orleans Greys and at the Battle of the Alamo in San Antonio, he lost his leg to cannon fire. Legend has it that his leg was buried in the same grave as the body of Alamo hero Ben Milam. After the revolution, Peg Leg settled in Houston and became a general contractor. He built the Texas capitol building in which the Congress of the Republic of Texas met. When the capital was moved to Austin, Peg Leg came along, serving as Clerk to the House of Representatives and then becoming mayor of Austin in the fall of 1840. During this time, Peg Leg submitted an intriguing claim for

expenses he incurred as House Clerk, including monies spent for hiring an office porter and employing a servant of Mrs. Angelina Eberly…to wash the House, and “2 loads hauling archives &c. to office from Capitol.” Peg Leg became Commissioner of the General Land Office. Shortly afterwards he lost another limb, his right arm, when a cannon misfired during San Jacinto Day festivities. Peg Leg soon found himself under cannon fire again when he was ordered by President Houston to assist in the secret removal of the archives from Austin. He’s the man Angelina fired that six-pound cannon at! Peg Leg was not injured again and during his life served in a variety of government posts, including two more stints as mayor of Austin, U.S. consul to Panama and customs collector in Corpus Christi. ✯

113

T H E

S E A

T U R T L E S

O F

osé Nicolás Ballí was born in Reynosa, Mexico, about 1770; his parents being Spaniards. He led an active civic and religious life in South Texas and the state of Tamaulipas as a missionary, rancher, colonist, and explorer. His parents owned over a million acres of land in South Texas and were prominent settlers and landowners in Mexico, as well as in the lower Rio Grande Valley.

The properties that he owned in South Texas were the La Feria grant, the Las Castañas grant, part of the Llano Grande grant, the Guadalupe grant, and the Isla de Santiago grant, known as Padre Island. Padre Island had been granted to his grandfather by King Carlos III of Spain in 1759. He was the first to have the island surveyed and was the first settler on the island who brought in families. He also built the first church on the island for the conversion of the Karankawa Indians and for the settlers. Twenty-six miles north of the island’s southern tip the priest founded El Rancho Santa Cruz de Buena Vista (later known as Lost City), where he kept cattle, horses, and mules. Padre Ballí died in 1829 and was buried near Matamoros. Padre Island was named in his honor. During the Padre’s lifetime South Padre Island was a nesting haven for at least two species of sea turtles, the Loggerhead and the Kemp’s Ridley. Over time, man, coyotes and other natural predators depleted the sea turtle population on the island, and for many years after there was not even a trace of their nesting. Seventy-five years after the death of Padre Ballí a very special woman would be born in Iowa who would be instrumental in changing the plight of the sea turtles on South Padre Island. Ila Loetscher – and she was no ordinary woman!

114

From a very young age, Ila lived a full and active life; possessing an independent streak that set her apart from others. A natural leader, she enjoyed organizing her playmates into a neighborhood drama production, just as much as serving as captain of her high school basketball team. Her adventurous spirit manifested itself in many ways throughout the years; convincing her father to allow her to drive at the age of twelve and taking flying lessons right after graduating from college. She even embarked on a year-long road trip down the Pan-American Highway to South America, while in her 50s. From Ila’s early years until her death she possessed a strong and determined spirit. In the 1920’s she set a goal to become the first licensed female aviator in her home state of Iowa. This was back in the days before the Great Depression. Flying time was very expensive, but Ila was extremely sharp. She quickly established a relationship with Curtiss Air Corporation – one that would be beneficial for both parties. In exchange for her promoting student flying, she would receive free air time. So, on Sundays and holidays, she would adorn herself in the alluring flying apparel of that era: black riding boots, tight pants, white jacket, and a white helmet tucked under her arm, and strive to make herself very conspicuous. When she felt the crowd was “just right,” she would stride confidently to a trainer plane, climb into the cockpit, and take to the sky. Once airborne, she’d make a few fancy turns around the airfield, and then

land as only a veteran could! She only had a mere ten hours of flight time! After climbing out of the cockpit, she would walk straight to the newsman holding the biggest camera for an expected interview. During such interviews, she would always answer the onslaught of questions making sure to throw in as many plugs for the Curtiss Air School as possible. In 1929 Ila had achieved her goal and joined the company of other great women aviators such as her friends Amelia Earhart, Ruth Nichols, Phoebe Omely, and Vera Brown. By the time she had become the first licensed female aviator in the state of Iowa, she and the press were well acquainted. In the late 20’s, Amelia Earhart was working energetically towards forming an organization of all the U.S. women pilots. She divided the country into sections and appointed Ila the organizer of the Midwest section. The press was helpful in this endeavor and before long the 99 Flying Club was founded in 1931, with Amelia as the president. Ila went down in history with her friend, Amelia Earhart.

ILA LOETSCHER

115

When her husband o f 3 2 y e a r s, David Loetscher, passed away Ila decided to make a new b e g i n n i n g a n d m o ved to the island shortly before 1963. Her move would change the course of history for the sea turtles of South Padre Island. In 1963 members of the Valley Sportsman Club decided to make an effort to restore the sea turtles to the beaches of South Padre Island. Female sea turtles return to the beaches where they were hatched, so a nesting rookery on the island needed to be chosen. The Kemp’s Ridley was chosen for two reasons. It would soon be extinct, and only one known rookery in the world existed - on a barren stretch of beach named Rancho Nuevo in Mexico, not too far from South Padre Island. A contractor from Brownsville, Dearyl Adams, was selected to spearhead this effort and the project was given the name of Project Ridley. Project Ridley was created to view and study the nestings and hatchings at Rancho Nuevo, and to transplant some of these eggs to South Padre Island in the hopes of restoring

116

the Kemp’s Ridley nesting rookery there. Adams obtained permission from the Mexican government to gather the eggs at the Rancho Nuevo rookery for transplanting, and each year he and volunteers would make the trip to bring more eggs to South Padre Island. In 1966 Ila joined Mr. and Mrs. Adams in making a trip to Rancho Nuevo where they collected 2000 eggs and brought them back to what they called Ranchito Tortuga (the Turtle Ranch). Mr. Adams and Ila had set up Ranchito Tortuga approximately 9 miles north of Andy Bowie Park and it was there where they ensured that the nests were protected from predators. Of the 2000 eggs, 54 hatchlings emerged from the sand. Adams gave 3 to Ila, and the other 51 made it safely to the sea! The 3 half-ounce baby hatchlings were named after characters from a poem written by Eugene Field; Wynken, Blynken and Nod. In 1967, Project Ridley had a very successful season when, of the 2000 eggs transferred to South Padre Island, 1002 hatched. The belief was that between 6-8 years after they are born, mature females return to the site of their births to lay their own eggs. In the spring of 1973 Ranchito Tortuga, came to life and the turtle watch began. Ila fell in love with the Kemp’s Ridley and decided to take up the protection of sea turtles as her life’s work. She was able to get a state permit allowing her to hold in captivity all species of sea turtles for care and educational purposes.

ILA LOETSCHER IN HER PILOT GEAR

DURING HER LIFETIME, AND EVEN AFTERWARD, ILA LOETSCHER WAS RECOGNIZED FOR HER MANY ACHIEVEMENTS

In addition to her working with Mr. Adams at th e r o o k e r y, s h e b e g a n r e h a b i litating injured sea turtles at her home on South Padre Island. During the ensuing years, Ila began to draw the attention of many curious visitors. She took every opportunity to speak about the plight of sea turtles and how the average tourist might assist in saving them from extinction. A kraal was constructed in the Fiesta Isles of the Laguna Madre. The kraal was a 60-foot long pen constructed in the mouth of a bay for protecting the turtles while they were in Ila’s care. This marked the beginning of the well-known Laguna Madre Kraal, and won Ila the title of “The Turtle Lady”. Volunteers patrolled the beach twice daily through June of that year, but no turtles or tracks were ever sighted. On May 13, 1974, a lone female Kemp’s Ridley made her way from the sea, pulling her weight with her two front flippers. She was

immediately taken to Ranchito Tortuga, where she laid 117 round sea turtle eggs. Being the first, she was named Alpha. After being tagged with number 1,011 she disappeared back into the sea. For protection, Alpha’s eggs were carefully buried in the sand and the nest area was surrounded by a wire cage to keep out crabs or other predators. After a 52- day incubation period, on July 4, 1974, a hatchling crawled out of the sand. He was Alpha’s first baby and weighed but a half of an ounce. His birth, on the 4th of July was true cause for celebration. Ila named him “Yankee Doodle Dandy” and they immediately bonded. She decided to keep him and later she, together with Yankee Doodle Dandy, appeared as dignitaries in many parades and 4th of July celebrations. With his patriotic costume and natural charm, Yankee Doodle soon became a favorite of the press. His mother, Alpha, ILA LOE

TSCHE

R AT HE

R FAVO

RITE PL

ACE

117

Atlantic Ridley rookery, thus fulfilling a long-time dream of Dearyl Adams, his wife, and Ila. A master at public relations, Ila took every opportunity to keep her turtles in the spotlight so as to continually remind one and all of their precarious hold on survival. She knew that their fate would have an impact on the greater interconnected balance of the planet; an impact which would, in the end, affect us all. In 1964, Texas Governor John Connally asked a press group to be his guests on a tour of Texas. When they visited South Padre Island, the Chamber of Commerce arranged for Ila to organize a caravan up the beach for them. Ila led 34, 4-wheel drive vehicles in her new red amphicar. Johnny Jones of the Columbus Dispatch swallowed his false teeth when Ila took her amphi-car into the surf, much to the shock of her passenger, a sweet young girl from the Des Moines Register. Over the years Ila would constantly be in the spotlight, showcasing her turtles and educating young and old alike of their importance on our planet. She would receive numerous

awards for her efforts. Honored as a Wavemaker in the 1981 Cousteau Almanac, Ila was recognized by the distinguished Jacques-Yves Cousteau and his Cousteau Society for her sea turtle conservation work. On her 80th birthday, the Cousteau Society sent a letter which reads in part: “Your work with sea turtles has helped bring the plight of this enigmatic creature more into focus for scientists and laymen alike”. By 1977, Ila was receiving so many guests into her home that she formed an all-volunteer non-profit organization, Sea Turtle Inc., which assisted her in education and rehab work with the sea turtles. In 1994, Ila’s health began to fail and she could no longer participate in the mission of the organization she created. During her lifetime, and even afterward, Ila Loetscher was recognized for her many achievements as well as for the significant contributions which she made in the field of sea turtle conservation. Each one of these recognitions was well deserved and, although Ila never expected acknowledgement for her labor of love she was nonetheless honored by many noteworthy organizations and respected individuals for all that she did. Among the many awards, honors and distinctions, the following from the National Marine Fisheries Service in 1984 says it best of all: “Ila does a fantastic job and treats turtles more affectionately than some people treat their children. I don’t know anybody in the world better at saving injured sea turtles.” Ila also made the news promoting her turtles in television appearances on The David Letterman Show, The Johnny Carson Show, Ripley’s Believe or Not, and Real People. Even after her death in 2000 at the age of 95, Ila continued

118

TLE D SEE TUR CUMENTE O IN D D T N S R LA FI IS THE DRE N SOUTH PA TO NEST O S N 20 YEAR MORE THA

to be honored for her contributions. Ila’s legacy continued in 2009 with a memorial at the South Padre Island Birding and Nature Center. Commissioned by the town of South Padre Island, the memorial was designed with participation from The Turtle Lady Legacy and represents a beautiful tribute to a woman who was a natural leader in everything she set out to do. The same year after Ila’s death, a volunteer Board of Directors and a Curator were appointed to Sea Turtle Inc., with volunteers stepping forward to continue her work in preserving sea turtles. Today, the staff has increased to include two part-time staffers, a fulltime educator and a store manager. Volunteers are still an integral part of the organization, and the list of volunteers continues to grow. For almost 40 years Sea Turtle Inc. has been saving sea turtles, and treating an average of 60-80 injured sea turtles each year. February 2011 brought freezing weather to the Coastal Bend, and Sea Turtle Inc. was there to treat over 800 cold, shocked sea turtles. Without their expert care, these magnificent creatures would have died. This organization treats more Kemp’s Ridley turtles than any other rescue center in the world and yearly, after rehabilitation, releases an average of 90 percent of these animals into the wild; with one or two non-releasable animals being relocated to major zoos and aquariums. Protecting over 7,000 sea turtle eggs in 2012 from 72 nests, Sea Turtle Inc. was awarded a Sea World/Busch Gardens conservation grant for these outstanding efforts. They have also been awarded the Texas Nature Tourism Achievement Award by The Texas Tourism Association. The organization manages 50 miles of Texas coast and responds to reports of injured and dead turtles, along with monitoring nesting activity, and spends over $50,000 each year in administering the South Texas Sea Turtle

Nest Conservation Project. Staff and Interns present research annually at the International Sea Turtle Society’s annual convention, which attracts over 1,000 sea turtle biologists from over 80 different countries around the world. Many of the interns at Sea Turtle Inc. are pursuing graduate degrees in biological science and the organization provides eight paid internships to university students each summer. Each year in June and July, children’s summer camps are held with the goal of educating children in a fun and interesting environment, about the importance of protecting and preserving sea turtles. With over 125 volunteers each year, Sea Turtle Inc. is responsible for the protection and preservation of sea turtles and the education of the public about sea turtles throughout the world. The Turtle Lady would be proud. Ila Loetscher’s legacy lives on in the work which she began so many years ago on South Padre Island and continues to inspire new generations to make a difference in the world. ✯

119

The End...

Experience ...Yet just the beginning of your own,

TEXAS COAST

May God Bless you, as he has me!

124