ISSUE 151 - OCTOBER 2015
FASHION JOURNAL MELBOURNE - SYDNEY - BRISBANE - ADELAIDE - PERTH
F R E E
Young and Restless
diesel.com
denim on denim on denim
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DISCLOSURE
WED.6.JAN F E S T I VA L H A L L MELBOURNE NEW ALBUM ‘CARACAL’ OUT NOW THRU UNIVERSAL
WITH SPECIAL GUESTS
WED 6TH JAN - METRO THEATRE - SYDNEY FRI 8TH JAN - 170 RUSSELL - MELBOURNE
TUE 5 JAN. CORNER HOTEL MELBOURNE THU 7 JAN. OXFORD ART FACTORY SYDNEY DEBUT ALBUM DOPAMINE FT. ELECTRIC LOVE OUT NOW
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father john misty new album i love you, honeybear out now
SUN 6 december MAX WATT’s BRIS wed 9 december the forum MELB THU 10 december SOLD OUTthe forum fatherjohnmisty.com secret-sounds.com.au
SECRET SOUNDS AND HANDSOME TOURS PRESENT
OH WONDER
WED 6 J AN T CLU B O U AL NEWTOWN S O L DSOCI SY DN EY
WED 6 JAN GOODGOD SYDNEY THU 7 JAN HOWLER MELBOURNE HIT SINGLE ‘LOVE ME BADDER’ OUT NOW
T H U 7 J AN NORT H COT E SOCI AL CLU B MELB OU R N E
MON 16 NOV THE TRIFFID
DEBU T ALBU M ‘O H WON DER’ O U T N OW
TICKETS ON SALE NOW
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FJ CO NTENTS
Express Yourself PUBLISHER Furst Media Pty Ltd. 3 Newton Street, Richmond, VIC www.furstmedia.com.au www.fashionjournal.com.au EDITOR
Leah White Lone Ranger with Chela page 26
leah@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & ONLINE EDITOR
Giulia Brugliera giulia@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Veronica Stanford veronica@furstmedia.com.au ADVERTISING
Leah White (03) 8414 9734
F
reedom of expression is the theme running through this issue. Freedom to be yourself, to be authentic, to dress how you want to dress and to pave your own way.
leah@furstmedia.com.au
Giulia Brugliera (03) 8414 9733 giulia@furstmedia.com.au ART DIRECTION & GRAPHIC DESIGN
Zarnie Morcombe
Fashion can be at times frivolous and fickle, but the fashion community doesn’t always shy away from tackling the big issues. This month we team up with photographer Jordan Drysdale and artist/fashion designer/wonder woman Angie Pai to discuss what sexuality and marriage equality really means for young people. We also hang with Chela. This Melbourne gal is killing it overseas, which she puts down to staying true to herself. We play around with some cool clothes and chat about her sense of self, the importance of individuality and why she doesn’t follow musical trends.
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Nick Ohlson (03) 8414 9731 nick@furstmedia.com.au EDITORIAL INTERNS
Tabatha Turner, Elle O'Donnell, Zoe Beer, Veronica Jenkinson, Sarah D'Ambrosio, Naomi Hatton, Eliza Sholly
Lauren Mayberry from CHVRCHES is another strong, independent woman. We catch up to talk about the media’s portrayal of her as a ‘feminist musician’ and why she’ll always take a stand against misogyny. Until next month, ON THE COVER
Leah and Giulia xx
Casey @ IMG Models wears: DUSKII tank suit from INCU $180 ADIDAS blue floral track top from
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10 THE SCOOP Fashion News
32 FEATURE Equality
14 FEATURE High Fashion v High Street
36 FREEDOM TO BE Editorial
16 MUSIC with CHVRCHES
44 DESIGNER PROFILES Coming Up
18 MAKING IT Afternoon Turkish Delight
48 HAIR & BEAUTY Primped
24 GOODS For the Win
54 LOOK & LISTEN Reviews
26 MUSIC with Chela
55 OUT & ABOUT Social Pics
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GLUE STORE $100 Photographer: Nicole Corbett Full shoot credits on page 36
© 2015 FURST MEDIA PTY LTD.
No part may be reproduced without the consent of the copyright holder.
1 WINNER IN EVERY TONI&GUY SALON For more competition details & your nearest salon location visit www.toniandguy.com.au ADELAIDE | BRISBANE | GOLD COAST | MELBOURNE | PERTH | SYDNEY
FJ N EWS
The Scoop
Stand For Something The Dr. Martens Stand For Something series is back and this year Sydney is getting the goods. Following a very successful series in Melbourne last year, Stand For Something is returning for a special one-night event on October 28. It will see UK band, Pulled Apart By Horses, headlining at a secret warehouse venue in Sydney’s inner west. This year’s event takes on a carnival feel, with several other artists on the bill alongside plenty of food and drink vendors. The venue will also host an exclusive Dr. Martens pop-up store where attendees will be able to get their hands on limited edition footwear and apparel. standforsomethingsydney.com
Melbourne Music Week Melbourne Music Week is back for 2015, with more than 100 events held across the city over eight days and nights. Beginning on November 13, MMW will pry open basement doors, activate laneways, light up the silver screen and illuminate some of Melbourne’s most iconic music venues. Acts include San Franciscan psych-rock group The Brian Jonestown Massacre, Berlin's sound-art mastermind Robert Henke and Melbourne’s own Banoffee (pictured). The disused basement of the Former Royal Women’s Hospital will form this year’s flagship venue for all things MMW. The space will see intricate music event Swell reinvent twelve of the venue’s forgotten rooms with secret one-off performances, while also staging live shows from a bunch of sweet artists including Monolake, Eric Duncan aka Dr Dunks, The Public Opinion Six, DZ Deathrays and many more. The flagship venue will also host an opening night party with local acts Gypsy & The Cat, The Harpoons and Dorsal Fins taking the stage. In addition to the music, the festival will feature a range of industry events, exhibitions, film screenings, workshops and panel discussions. melbourne.vic.gov.au/mmw
Jack London A cross between colourful pop art and ’80s preppy style, Jack London’s SS15 collection is all about bright colours, cool textures and a leisurely, well-travelled sensibility. With neon linen blazers, turquoise biker jackets and lemon cotton shirts, it’s a clash of new wave punk style and romanticism. It’s paying homage to ’80s style with thin leather ties, pastel shirts and pin-dot bow ties. If you're stuck on what to wear this racing season, Jack London is where you should be heading. Hellooo style. jacklondon.com.au
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Napoleon Perdis October means one thing: Halloween. The spooky season is upon us, meaning the time to start costume planning is nigh. Napoleon Perdis is here to help you get ready, dropping their Halloween Heroes collection. The pack is made up of a trio of artfully selected essential items to help you transform into your persona of choice. From dramatic to supernatural, the limited edition pack includes Loose Eye Dust Supernova, Luminous Lip Veil and Nightfall Kajal Eyeliner. The pack retails at $59 and comes bound in a superhero-style cosmetics bag, making it easy to touch up as you’re trick-or-treating. napoleonperdis.com
FJ N EWS
Diesel Diesel’s Fall/Winter campaign is here, and it’s making a statement. Combining real and raw photography with direct and transparent headlines, Decoded by Diesel delivers a high-fashion aesthetic and unexpected genuine message. The campaign cuts to the chase with slogans like “This is a fashion campaign” and “this is a denim ad.” It doesn’t make lofty statements or use any industry jargon. Instead, the message is simple, easy to grasp and witty. It’s taking note of the digital world and its direct approaches to reality. Working to interrupt the world of re-touched images, Diesel is telling it like it is. diesel.com
Casper&pearl Casper&pearl is dominating the local fashion game. From humble beginnings as a start-up just a few years ago, today the Adelaide-based label is dropping six collections a year, and has showcased at Adelaide and Mercedes Benz Fashion Festivals. Focusing on shapes, fabrication and exclusive prints, the label’s designs exude a sense of childhood nostalgia, which is combined with a strong feminine aesthetic and playfulness. Casper&pearl’s incredibly talented young designer, Stacey Hendrickson, works to include a hidden meaning and metaphor in each design. Expect bold hues, strong prints and playful silhouettes. The result is beautiful, art-like statement pieces, for the girl that never wants to grow up. casperandpearl.com
Adelaide Fashion Festival This PSA goes out to all you kids in Adelaide. The Adelaide Fashion Festival kicks off on October 22 and the program looks pretty promising. The four-day event is set to shine light on some well-deserving designers, with a series of showcase events and runways. Expect to see designs from local labels such as Paolo Sebastian, Casper&pearl, C/MEO Collective, SIG by Kate Anderson and many more taking the catwalk. Tickets available now. adelaidefashionfestival.com.au
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Royal Doulton Royal Doulton has collaborated with young talent Karolin Schnoor for their new collection, Fable. The Scandinavian-style sets were inspired by on-trend naturalistic patterns and storybook enchantment. All up, Fable combines three eclectic sets, each with a different theme. Some pieces are embellished with red and blue designs and others with stylised birds and trees. If something a little more modest is your style, you may like to add some pieces from the simple white range too. Whether you’re setting up for dinner with the in-laws or a tea party with your pals, Fable is perfect for anyone who is a fan of stylish dinnerware layering. royaldoulton.com.au
FJ FE ATU RE
High Fashion v High Street ILLUSTRATIONS BY TWYLAMAE
why pay more?
"The more my favourite designers surfed the high street money wave, the less I lusted after their wares. "
BY BIANCA O'NEILL
H
ey Taylor Swift, there’s a new #squad in town. And unlike yours, it’s 100 per cent achievable to be part of this one.
However, the more my favourite designers surfed the high street money wave, the less I lusted after their wares.
In fact, anyone can join. All you need is a cheeky $100 note and a penchant for waiting in long lines from 3am. It’s called the designer collab, and you can find it at pretty much every high street store you can imagine. Hell, even Target is on board the (fat free) gravy train these days.
I bought into the Alexander Wang x H&M collab recently, only to find that I’ve worn my weeks-pay *real* Wang piece 100 times over, compared to my H&M humdrum. So did the collab actually work for the brand?
The guestlist reads like a dream fashion week line-up. The only difference is, you don’t need to dream about it anymore. From Missoni to Alexander Wang and even local designers like Dion Lee, the high end and the high street are joining forces more than ever before. But when you can buy Balmain at H&M, and Carine Roitfeld at Uniqlo, I ask: is there any point in buying designer anymore? Back in 2004, H&M had a brilliant idea: what if fashion lovers everywhere could get their hands on a bit of Chanel… but for a fraction of the price? They enlisted Karl Largerfeld for a diffusion line and the rest is history. Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant came next, and Maison Martin Margiela and Versace soon followed.
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Did it make Wang more accessible? Yes, sure. Future H&M collabs more desirable? Probably not. Does Alexander Wang actually care either way? I doubt it. Quite the opposite in fact – it seems all our favourite designers couldn’t be more chuffed about the big brands lining their pockets. Just take Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing. "I want to talk to my generation − this is my main aim as a designer,” he tells us. “H&M allows me the unique possibility of bringing everyone into the world of Balmain, getting a piece of the dream." But is a cutting room floor reject from Balmain’s fashion HQ, with an H&M tag slapped on it, really ‘the dream’?
There’s something altogether not-dreamy-at-all about the reality of waiting in line for 5,432 hours with a slew of eBay warriors looking to make a quick buck off resales, while I attempt to convince myself that the just-not-quite-right fit is worth it. Because, Balmain. Perhaps I’m just a fool for fash, but personally, my #dream is to one day own the real, honest-togoodness thing. To spend an entire month’s salary on something other than rent and food. To stare at the double breasted beauty in my cupboard, pride of place, and wonder if some event I’m going to is really worth the wear… Sigh. Nowadays no collab would surprise me. Maybe the next one will be Louboutin and PayLess Shoes. After all, their slogan seems entirely appropriate… So why exactly SHOULD we pay more when we can pay less? It’s a question of quality. Of heritage and legacy… Or is it? I guess that’s for you to decide.
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FJ M USI C
Eyes Open
We started it as a monthly club night where we’d book female-focused bands and DJs and then it expanded into a blog, radio show and podcast. We’re aware of the negative aspects of being a woman in society and creative industry, but if you just talk about negativity and don’t try to put anything positive back into the community, I don’t think anything productive will happen. What does TYCI that stand for? It’s a phrase on Urban Dictionary that stands for “tuck your cunt in”. I think the definition is taking charge of your own situation and getting shit done. The female version of manning up. It’s meant to be tongue-in-cheek. Your article in The Guardian in 2013 about online misogyny and inappropriate messages made quite an impact. Do you think it made a difference to the types of messages you receive now? I don’t think so. The difference we’ve seen is more in the fan community and people that we talk to. I don’t ever think we’re changing the minds of people who send threatening messages to women but if it can make a difference to people who are following your band, then that’s good. Do you think it has changed the way the media portrays you?
BY ARIANNA L UCENT E
You’ve all heard the news. CHVRCHES (Lauren Mayberry, Iain Cook, Martin Doherty) are headlining at Laneway Festival next year and it’s going to be a blast. They’ve just released their sophomore album, Every Open Eye, and they want to specify that it’s not a break-up album. It’s about moving on to better things. We caught up with Lauren to chat feminism, media portrayals and Laneway memories.
I’m yet to read an article about our band that doesn’t refer to the fact that I am female. They should basically write a sentence that says, “The female woman girl vocals of the female girl Lauren Mayberry.” When people talk about the fact that I’m female, they normally talk about that in relation to feminism but people are still defining you. Now I’m a feminist musician. I am a feminist and I am a musician, but we don’t make feminist art necessarily. But I would rather have that than what we were getting previously, which was people writing about the elvish tiny floaty girl vocals. I’m not an elf. I remember Grimes wrote that she was fed up with the industry and the media infantilising her because she wouldn’t allow them to sexualise her. It feels like women still need to fit into certain boxes. What’s the craziest thing that’s happened to you on tour?
You studied undergraduate law and a master’s in journalism. Why the switch?
You founded and run a women’s collective called TYCI. Why?
In my second year of doing the law degree, I wanted to merge it with something else. My eventual goal had been to work in documentary film, so I figured multimedia journalism and law was quite a good combo. When we started CHVRCHES, I had been working as a freelance journalist, but also did production assisting for film and television.
I started TYCI in 2012. I was trying to make a difference in the local music community. I played a lot of terrible unsigned band gigs in Glasgow and I was often the only woman playing. It’s insane because I know so many talented women who are in bands. I thought it would be nice if we had a network where people felt supported and had a platform to talk.
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At Laneway Singapore last year, I remember walking to the toilet and hearing a bunch of teenage girls screaming for Martin as he was walking past. That’s as close to Beatlemania as it’s ever going to get for us. I think he quite enjoyed it to be honest. CHVRCHES are playing at St Jerome’s Laneway Festival in February 2016. Every Open Eye is out now.
Emporium Concept Store Shop LG-039 Emporium Melbourne, 269-321 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne 3000 03 9639 7138
Chapel St Concept Store 417 Chapel St, South Yarra 3141 03 9824 1288
FJ M AK IN G IT
Afternoon Turkish Delight
Tableware by Royal Doulton
Spring is all about the blooms, so we thought we’d share with you a sweet rosy treat.
RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TABATHA TURNER
INGREDIENTS: 900g good quality white cooking chocolate 2 packets good quality marshmallows 1 1/2 packets plain sweet biscuits (Marie) 1 1/2 cups of dried cranberries or cherries 1 cup pistachios Rose petals (because #Instagram)
METHOD: 01.
02.
03.
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Line a deep square cake tin with parchment paper, making sure there are no gaps.
04. In a large bowl, place biscuits and crush into large pieces. Add marshmallows, 3/4 pistachios and cranberries. Coconut can be 05. added for an optional summery twist.
infiltrate the melting process and curdle the chocolate. Remove from the heat and stir until completely melted. Add to bowl of biscuits, marshmallows, cranberries and pistachios. Pour into cake tin and, folding the over-hanging parchment, press down the mixture firmly.
Place chocolate in a heatproof bowl and cover tightly with cling wrap. Place bowl over a pan of shallow simmering water (do 06. Top with rose petals and leftover not allow the water to touch the bowl). pistachios. Refrigerate for 30 minutes Leave for about 10 minutes without until devouring. Keep in the fridge... if opening the cling wrap. The steam will there is any left.
INTRODUCING THE EXO GRID BOOT.
FJ M USI C
Into the Woodes Elle Graham from Woodes is our new favourite up-and-comer. Originally from Townsville, Elle writes, sings and produces her own music. She also models and creates soundtracks for fashion films. She’s recently released Woodes x Elkkle, a collab EP with her schoolmate, Callum J. Baker (Elkkle). We chatted to Elle about her lush sound, women in the music industry and how she tried to give her demo to FKA twigs.
BY ARIANNA L UC ENTE
How did you get into music?
How does your music distinguish from Elkkle’s?
Musical influences?
My parents really wanted me to play an instrument through primary school so I started playing piano when I was eight. I got into orchestral percussion and I also did classical voice. My family’s really musical. My dad plays guitar and banjo and my mum plays the French horn. She can sing too.
We’re really different. I like harmonies, atmospheres and creating soundscapes but Callum can do a whole range of things. He can be really abrasive and do hip-hop and trap.
I grew up watching The O.C. so I got into Sufjan Stevens, Imogen Heap and Death Cab for Cutie early on. Alexandra Patsavas did all the music supervision for The O.C. and she’s always been an idol of mine. I also love James Blake and FKA twigs. I really like the whole bedroom self-producer vibe as well.
How did you meet Elkkle?
You performed at a LISTEN event called This Girl, which had an all-female line-up. How do you feel about women in the music industry?
I studied Interactive Composition at the Victorian College of the Arts (VCA). You have to write music and include another element such as a film clip or a dance. He’s a year below me but we did classes together. I gave him samples of me singing acapella and he layered it and turned it into the song, ‘Too Late For Neverminds’.
It’s really strange how weighted the industry is but I feel like it’s changing. I’m definitely into doing my own production because there aren’t that many females who do studio engineering.
How did the Woodes x Elkkle collab come about?
Yeah, I just finished a piece for Elle Croatia and I did a few behind the scenes soundtracks for Mercedes when I was overseas. Every time I’m on a shoot, I talk to the creative team and see what projects they’re working on. It’s really nice to tie music and fashion together.
Callum has a shipping container studio at Phillip Island on his parents’ property, so we set aside five days and wrote the four songs on the EP. We just wanted to see what would happen if we sat down for a weekend and wrote together. We really wanted to give the demos to FKA twigs. We had tickets to her show this year and we waited in a laneway for a really long time but I think she was unwell so we just gave it to her management.
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Apparently you write music to accompany your modelling work?
Favourite designers? I love Nique, Claude Maus, Alexander McQueen, Dion Lee, Zimmermann and Scanlan & Theodore.
You were recently in New York. What did you get up to? I wrote music for a producer duo in Long Island and another producer who works in Brooklyn. I also wrote a really nice one for myself that I might include on a Woodes EP. My mum is American and she’s one of seven so I went to a big family reunion there. I also went to art galleries, visited Central Park because it’s summer, and caught the cast and crew of Girls filming in Long Island! Why the name Woodes? It took me a while to decide on a name. For me, Woodes has a strength to it. Woodes is performing and curating her own installation at Melbourne Music Week on November 17. melbourne.vic.gov.au/mmw
FJ SH O P STO P
Race Day with OnceWas
In the eyes of the fashion elite, the beginning of October is all about one thing: preparing for Spring Racing season. OnceWas understands the springtime struggle, and so the label is rushing out its new season collections, just in time for the Spring Carnival. 124 Gertrude Street Fitzroy VIC 3065 59 Church Street Brighton VIC 3186 facebook.com/oncewasstyle @oncewas__
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Known for producing their garments with integrity, quality and innovation, OnceWas has worked hard to bring you elegant pieces that will transcend the boundaries of the modern aesthetic. Here’s your perfect race day outfit. oncewas.com.au
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FJ G O O DS
FOR THE WIN
PHOTOGRAPHY SARA D'AMBROSIO STYLING TABATHA TURNER
It’s time to suit up fellas, Spring Racing season is upon us. Racing style is all about embracing the finer details. From shiny leather shoes, to patterned bow ties and graphic pocket squares, this is the time to be daring. Cap off your look with a simple watch and some sweet shades. You’ll be looking dapper in no time. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT RODD & GUNN Thames Path pocket square $119, IZOLA Put Some Hair on your Chest flask $50 from SOMEWHERE STORE, SOLID STATE FOR MEN Voyager cologne $35 BARED FOOTWEAR Oxygen Brogue $289, DIESEL sunnies $299 THE FIFTH WATCHES black and tan watch $139, MUJI Passport case $13.95 HYDRODOL 8 capsules $13.95, DIESEL wallet $169 RODD & GUNN Pembridge shirt $179, JACK LONDON bowtie $49
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LOVE IS EARTH Sasquatch print tee $50 (USD) THE FIFTH LABEL Infinity culottes $89.95 DR. MARTENS Women’s 1461 (custom painted) $199
LONE RANGER
PHOTOGRAPHY CYBELE MALINOWSKI STYLIST DEVIN WINTER HAIR AND MAKE-UP PAMELA BJORKLUND FEATURING CHELA INTERVIEW BY TEGAN BUTLER
Stylist’s own hat KENNINGTON CALIFORNIA windbreaker $59 (USD) Chela’s own earring (worn throughout
A trailblazer, an environmental crusader and a passionate advocate for authenticism, Chela Wheatley is a performer who wears many hats, but never one that isn’t truly her own. An Australian who divides her time between Los Angeles and Melbourne, Chela, aka Chelsea Wheatley, is one of music’s most dynamic and evolving success stories. She remains fiercely independent release after release, with years of creative metamorphosis and self-realisation paving the way to help her conquer some of the music industry’s toughest lessons.
We met at one of LA’s largest flea markets on a sweltering Sunday morning. Chela was in the mood to find some treasures. Having recently touched down in LA after over six months in the studio in her hometown of Melbourne, Chela was on a short trip. Her plan was to sew some vital seeds for a brand new EP she’s been patiently crafting before returning home to close ACMI’s Bowie Late Nights series. Her last two singles, ‘Romanticise’ and ‘Handful Of Gold’ did well in the US and Europe, and after some absence from the live stage, fans are eager to hear what is coming next.
“One of the things that I wanted to concentrate on for the new material was making dance music that wasn’t all four to the floor. Using live-sounding drums and percussion and exploring what it is to make danceable music with those elements. That’s been a really fun adventure and I think all of the songs have a similar thread running through them, because of that rule.”
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Chela developed the bug for production early on by learning programs like Ableton in her pre-teen years. It enabled her to experiment with electronic sounds that lead to tracks like ‘Romanticise’. “I think it’s important to challenge yourself as an artist. Michael Jackson – his music was so danceable but it was all live drums and his stuff was a lot more funk and disco. I really wanted to work within that idea. I love a mixture of natural and unnatural, synthetic and live. Marrying those two and making the perfect combination is something that I constantly like to challenge myself with in production.”
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MAMADOUX by ELLIOTT BEACH custom-made jacket POA AZUL by MOUSSY white short sleeve snap front shirt with drawstring hem $99 (USD) LOVE IS EARTH snake print ball shorts $50 (USD) UNIQLO socks $12.90 DR. MARTENS 1460 8-Eye boot $209
“I’m so glad I’ve been able to grow over the last two years and come to a realisation that makes me feel a lot more content to do what I’m doing. I feel that because I have a really strong sense of identity in my music and as a person, I feel so confident now to just follow my intuition. When you’re a bit younger, in music especially, you can be swayed to take on forms that are maybe a little less authentic. You look up to so many people and want to be a part of a certain movement. But I’m more sure than ever that it’s so much better to create your own world and not worry about trying to belong to another tribe.”
“I’ve been through so many realisations over the past year, it’s been such a year of growth. A realisation in particular that I really needed to come to, was that I am actually the perfect producer for my EP. Because I write or co-write and produce all of my demos and songs, I’ve got such a strong sense of what my creative direction should be. I feel more and more that I can’t just hand that over to someone else.”
This motto rings true throughout Chela’s entire sense of self, like a personal modus operandi, as she applies her unique style to everything she touches. Armed with a strong dislike of the colours pink and purple, Chela also hates dresses and loves to push the boundaries of trends and fashion in general. In preparing for her shoot with Fashion Journal, I asked if there was a new look or theme on the cards, to coincide with the new material.
“Aesthetically, I just try and look the way I want to look. I think it’s important to not change it up too much. I don’t like it when people are trying too hard – I don’t think you can really connect to that. So for me, a lot of the time I will wear on stage what I was wearing that day shopping. I don’t want to look like I’m trying too hard and I don’t want to actually try too hard. The artists that I really love are the ones that are the most authentic. That’s the kind of artist I want to be too.” On the topic of whether living in two very different cities has also had an impact on her newfound sound and musical perspective, Chela is upfront. She says it can be difficult to maintain a necessary balance of work and play while in Los Angeles. In a city so over-stimulating, it can be a very real distraction from writing and recording. But it’s also a thriving hub of other artists and successful musicians. Despite this being a huge draw for many Australian artists who head overseas to write, Chela is not so sure that working with musical idols is an ideal route – she’d rather pave her own way.
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323 The Gabi Jumpsuit $100 (USD) Chela’s own rings
MAMADOUX by ELLIOTT BEACH custom-made mesh top POA TRACEE NICHOLS Medallion necklace $375 (USD)
With so much travel under her belt over the last few years, it’s no wonder that her ideas on music and the production process have morphed since her debut in 2012. Early comparisons to artists like Ladyhawke and Santigold at the beginning of her career could have easily pigeon-holed Chela into the tightly confined ‘electronic-pop’ space. But that wasn’t something Chela let take hold. Talking with her about her creative process as we weave our way through racks of vintage tees and leather boots, it’s clear there are many environmental factors behind each release.
30 MAMADOUX by ELLIOTT BEACH custom-made mesh top POA TRACEE NICHOLS Medallion necklace $375 (USD) 323 The Gabi Jumpsuit $100 (USD) Chela’s own rings
As we continue to wander through the flea market, LA’s heatwave takes its toll. We buckle at the idea of scrummaging through the endless vintage wares. It reminds me of some of the environmental issues Chela has become increasingly passionate and vocal about. Now a vegan (and an amazing vegan cook), Chela is not solely consumed with her forthcoming EP release.
“I'm passionate about spreading awareness to create positive change and how artists and public figures can use their voices to help address the important issues happening in the current climate. I choose to be environmentally conscious because I want to do my bit to reduce our big ugly footprint on this Earth and in doing that I hope I can affect others and express my gratitude for being here. Global warming due to fossil fuels and industrial agriculture is an undeniable and immense problem facing us and our next generations – the list of issues goes on. The idea that ‘knowledge is king and passion is contagious’ is a tool I hope to use to help make a change, like many of my environmentalist heroes.”
Chela’s own earring (worn throughout)
REEBOK Classic Nylon sneakers $89.99
AZUL by MOUSSY shorts $69 (USD)
MAMADOUX by ELLIOTT BEACH Monster Pullover $480
“Living in the states and having met a lot of the people I thought I wanted to collaborate with, I realised that maybe they’re the pioneers of trends that eventually end, or become popular or generic. All you can really do is admire those people for creating that for themselves. It’s been really cool for me to realise that, instead of trying to join in on something that’s being created and just create it for myself.”
Chela will be returning home from LA to perform the closing set at Bowie Late Nights at ACMI on October 30. acmi.net.au facebook.com/chelaetc
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A collaborative series celebrating diversity and exploring the struggles of seeking equality.
PICTURED CAMILLA
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PHOTOGRAPHY & INTERVIEWS JORDAN DRYSDALE jordandrysdale.com ARTWORK ANGIE PAI angiepai.com
View the full series at fashionjournal.com.au/shoots
Jacob What does your sexuality mean to you? My sexuality isn't a predominate aspect of my life. Being comfortable to be who we are regardless, and not feel ashamed of that, is something we need to demand. And honestly it shouldn't come to that. The embedded ideas of what the norm is in society has drastically changed, and we need to let it. What is your message to people who discriminate against the GLTBIQA+ community? Get up with the times, it's 2015 and you're living in the past. Come meet us in the present, with an open mind and the realisation we are all human. We are all the same, let's embrace our differences.
Luke What does your sexuality mean to you? Sexuality to me is just another part of a personality. I think for me it means I have a sense of freedom. When did you first become aware of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ individuals? In high school my brother was pretty intensively bullied about his sexuality. I think that was the first time I became aware of the idea about sexuality and the negative effects it can have. How do you think marriage equality would affect your life? It would allow me to get married without moving to America. What is your message to people who discriminate against the GLTBIQA+ community? To keep your minds open and accept everyone as they come.
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Mill What does your sexuality mean to you? My sexuality has been the catalyst for ongoing perspective shifts, self evaluation and ultimately gaining expanding insight into the human condition. Being immersed in a community that not only excites exploration of character, interaction and expression, but also allows for insight into a wildly diverse and supportive environment, has been everything to me. I used to think that my sexuality was the most pivotal aspect to my identity, but I've grown to understand that it has merely been a vehicle in which to ignite self-love holistically.
When did you first become aware of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ individuals? I think the main issue lies within the wording of that question. The problem is NOT becoming aware of discrimination against LGBTQIA+ individuals. The issue is, in fact, only being able to understand that community through the lens of stigmatised collectives. As children we are taught that heteronormativity is paramount and this is entrenched in absolutely every single interaction we have. So without knowing it, children are subconsciously harbouring great fear towards 'the other'. This is manifested when abnormal behaviour is presented, i.e. someone having a gay uncle or having a sister who is a lesbian. Children respond immediately with a fear of being outside their experience, which has been collected since infancy. I remember very clearly in prep a girl in my class used to kiss me on the lips at assembly and I was disgusted and mortified. I knew it was very wrong and shameful as a six-year-old to be engaging in that behaviour. So I think discrimination starts at birth.
Samuel What does your sexuality mean to you? I don’t really know. It’s something you’re always trying to come to terms with, I guess. It’s a terrifying experience to find meaning in something so important when you feel alone. Out the other end, it’s pretty refreshing to no longer have to feel the need to defend yourself. Any of David McDiarmid’s Rainbow Aphorisms are good references. When did you first become aware of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ individuals? I’d have to say I was quite young when I was first called gay, I didn’t even know what it meant at time. I grew up in a small coastal town two hours out of Melbourne. It wasn’t very forgiving of differences in a town dominated by football and cricket. The journey to Melbourne during my teens felt like time travel. What made me feel different at home, I quickly discovered was celebrated in the city. I was lucky to have a supportive family and 40 years of activism in Australia, fighting for my rights.
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How would you describe the feeling of not being granted marriage rights? Pretty pissed off. I believe religion should have no power in government. The government and religious institutions would have to put up a pretty big fight against the majority of Australians who support marriage equality. I don’t think it would help the government’s already dismal reputation. How do you think marriage equality would affect your life? I’d have to buy a suit.
Tyrone When did you first become aware of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ individuals? I was called gay at school for not conforming to what all the other kids were doing. My uncle, who I have a very close relationship with, is gay, so I never understood why I was being called this in a derogatory way. I was brought up in an environment of acceptance and love towards the gay community, so I remember being confused by the context that homosexuality is a negative thing.
How would you describe the feeling of not being granted marriage rights? We live in such a modern and advanced world in so many ways, however we are so backwards in this case. Marriage is a union of love between two people. It is cruel and discriminatory to not allow two human beings to confirm their love by law of their country, because of their sexuality. It should not be anybody’s business but those involved. So it disgusts me. It is inhumane to be treated differently because of sexual preference. What is your message to people who discriminate against the GLTBIQA+ community? If you put as much energy and passion into relevant issues that actually deserve this much attention, the world would be a happier place. Leave everyone at peace to live their lives.
Isaac What does your sexuality mean to you? It's always meant a lot. First, my sexuality was synonymous with shame. Now, I am proud. When did you first become aware of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ individuals? My awareness of discrimination against GLTBIQA+ folk developed as I realised that I was gay, around age 14. Feelings of shame and abnormality stemmed from very valid fears of exclusion and discrimination. The denial of rights or equality to a certain group of people implicitly endorsed such discrimination. It contributes to a deeply damaging and inaccurate belief in society that same-sex attraction is unworthy or less meaningful.
Have you had any key moments or experiences throughout Australia's fight for marriage equality that have contributed to your understanding of its importance? As a humanist, a homosexual and a human rights advocate, I respect the symbolic importance of marriage equality as a means of normalisation. I respect that denying marriage rights for gays deeply devalues a group of people in society's eyes, positioning them as an abnormal, different or a minority. I believe that only when marriage equality is recognised by authority and is legally endorsed, will we see widespread acceptance and normalisation of homosexuality. What is your message to people who discriminate against the GLTBIQA+ community? You will feel deeply ashamed of yourself one day.
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FR E E D O M TO B E
PHOTOGRAPHER NICOLE CORBETT STYLIST NICOLE ADLER @ SYNC PRODUCTION AND MANAGEMENT HAIR FERN MADDEN @ NETWORK AGENCY MAKE-UP KATE SQUIRES GLOBAL MAKE-UP ARTIST FOR NAPOLEON PERDIS MODEL CASEY @ IMG MODELS
DUSKII tank suit from INCU $180 ADIDAS blue floral track top from GLUE STORE $100
CELESTE TESORIERO playsuit $240 ÊTRE CÉCILE Mega Ohm tee from INCU $145 KRISTIN ASH Sterling Silver Ant Ring $49, Triple Band Ring $119, Cactus Ring $59, Sterling Silver Chevron rings $59 each
COMME DES GARÇONS PLAY tee from INCU $100 TOME Taffeta Karate pant $695 NIKE sneakers from INCU $140
PAGEANT Splash crop tee $88 AGENT PROVOCATEUR Lexxi bottoms $205
DION LEE II Tank dress $390
AGENT PROVOCATEUR Lexxi bikini $245 MAX MARA skirt $1515 NIKE sneakers from INCU $140 CELESTE TESORIERO playsuit $240 ÊTRE CÉCILE Mega Ohm tee from INCU $145 SOL SANA sandal $104.95 KAREN WALKER Ladybird necklace $789
FJ D ESI G N ER PRO FILES
01 Luxe Deluxe
02 Aayesha
03 Carmen the Label
04 Wolf & Mishka
Thanks to Luxe Deluxe you’ll never have to compromise comfort for style again. The Melbourne-based label’s focus is on creating pieces that are modern and effortless, in the hope they’ll last you a lifetime. Each piece is unique and versatile, allowing the garments to transcend age and be worn across the seasons. From cosy knits to tailored blazers and soft leather jackets, they’re dedicated to helping you find the perfect addition to your existing wardrobe. You’ll be looking sophisticated even if you’re rocking the classic jogger pant and sneaker combo. That’s a win for all us girls. luxe-deluxe.com
Say hello to designer garments, minus the designer price tag. Carmen the Label was created to honour of the memory of a woman who passed away after a 17-year battle with cancer. The label’s mission is to create quality garments for the strong and sophisticated woman. With a classic colour palette of black, white and taupe, the brand combines elegant styles with edgy subtleties. The Carmen range features figure-hugging bodycon dresses, co-ord sets and midi-dresses to flatter, reflecting their commitment to creating garments that embrace womanly curves. Now that’s something we can get behind. carmenthelabel.com.au
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Aayesha is for the ladies who want to look sleek during the working week and embrace street style on their days off. When the weekend arrives she's out on the town wearing the perfect silhouette. Offering compact collections inspired by the designer’s love of trending international fashion, each garment is created with love and care. The label aims to portray fashion as a source of freedom, while working to incorporate styles that are affordable. For wearers who are vivacious, confident and strong at heart, Aayesha's latest collection looks to edgy yet sophisticated designs combined with sleek standout pieces. aayesha.com.au
Each piece from Wolf & Mishka takes inspiration from a century-old, family-owned book of Russian nursery rhymes. The label carries inspiration from family heirlooms throughout their collection, resulting in a series of small-run, original pieces that are created with plenty of love. Immersing themselves wholeheartedly into the creative process, the team at Wolf & Mishka brings clothing, ceramic jewellery and homewares together for a truly well rounded collection. Everything from Wolf & Mishka is made in Melbourne from natural fibres, so you can be certain that you’ve got yourself a little piece of something special. wolfandmishka.com.au
D ESI G N ER PRO FILES
05 Paper Clothing
It’s always summer somewhere, so ensuring your wardrobe is stocked with a good pair of shorts is pretty important. Paper Clothing believes the perfect pair of shorts should show your personality, fit well and be easily worn, regardless of whether you’re on the street or hitting up the beach. The St Kilda-based brand knows exactly what a strong wave is capable of. They’ve armed their beach shorts with all the defences needed for tackling even the strongest of tidal currents. Featuring quickdry fabric, structured lining, an elastic waist and two-way tightening, you can be sure they will stay exactly where they're supposed to. paperclothing.com.au
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06 YEVU
The vibrancy of West African textiles and the desire to partner with small businesses in Ghana are the inspirations behind Anna Robertson's clothing line,YEVU. After living and working in Accra for 12 months, Robertson wanted to do her bit to help empower economically disadvantaged micro producers and micro enterprises in Ghana. She worked for this through creating jobs, generating income and skill training in contemporary design. YEVU debuted its first range in Sydney in 2013 and sold out within one week. Since then, the label has produced three ranges and opened several pop-up stores around the world. Working to feature simple and contemporary designs for both men and women, Yevu makes fun threads, all while supporting Ghana’s local economy. yevuclothing.com
07 Kato Swim
Designer summer essentials are what Kato Swim do. And they do it well. They’ll keep you looking both sporty and elegant with a range of bikini separates and sets, one-pieces and resort wear. Each style and print is carefully designed by brother-sister duo Kate and Niall Campbell, the creative masterminds behind the brand. Their latest line Aloha! is a tribute to the modern surfer girl. Think athletic cuts, contrasting colours and prints, flashes of pastel and neon, plus the occasional Hawaiian-inspired print. Kato Swim has also taken time to ensure all production is environmentally friendly. Win. kato-swim.com
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08 The Dress Collective
There’s a whole wardrobe of reasons to love The Dress Collective. Firstly, they only stock emerging designers who are 100 per cent Australian owned. Secondly, all of the labels you'll find at The Dress Collective are sustainably and ethically produced in Australia. We'd be here all day if we listed all of the rad facts about The Dress Collective, but just know that it's the perfect place to shop online and make a difference. If you are a fan of unique and exclusive fashion, are all about Australian made and locally designed pieces, and you value quality clothing, you’ll love The Dress Collective. thedresscollective.com
09 DI-LIA
Unique yet carefully-crafted clothes can be hard to come by, so you’ll be glad DI-LIA is making its way onto the scene. Designer Dilia Ew started her namesake label with the intention of creating carefully refined pieces that can easily transition from day to night. All of DI-LIA's designs are handcrafted locally in Melbourne, with the latest drop RG2.0 about to arrive. An accompaniment to the debut AW15 collection, RG2.0 uses lightweight natural fibres for a spring feel. Made from wool crepe, the offering complements the unorthodox textures and fabrics from the first collection. This one’s for the women who appreciate the unique and have an eye for refined beauty. dilia.com.au
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HAIR & BEAUTY
Primped
PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE NEW MODEL TALIA @ CHIC MANAGEMENT HAIR ELIZABETH SHEDWICK @ TONI&GUY using label.m MAKE-UP ANIA MILCZARCZYK @ DLM
HAIR & BEAUTY
Napoleon Says Race days are all about endurance: wearing shoes that you can keep on for the entirety of the day and dresses that look fabulous but can be worn with ease. Your make-up is no different. Ensuring your look is long-lasting yet glam, means you have one less thing to worry about as you soak up the racing atmosphere. We checked in with beauty king Napoleon Perdis to find out how to perfect the Race Day look. Tips for a perfect pout? And how do we keep it looking great throughout the day? Pout perfection starts with a balm. For a long-lasting look you need to treat your lips before diving in with colour. Give your lips a generous coat of lip balm, work it into your lips for a few moments then blot off the excess. Create a base for your colour by applying a little foundation or concealer around your lip line to disguise discoloration, creating a canvas for clean and perfect lines. If you’ve used a foundation or concealer brush, simply wipe the residue in the brush over your lips. For long lasting colour try a layering effect. Line and fill your lips with a lip pencil, coat with lipstick, then line your lips again to seal for longevity. If you’ve used a creamy lipstick, tap a little translucent powder over your lips to set. To keep your colour lasting, avoid pressing your lips together, drink through a straw and remember to touch up.
What’s the best way to get a natural glow without looking shiny? This technique is easy. You need to balance the texture on certain areas of the face. Radiance should be added to the high-points of the face (top of the cheekbone, bridge of the nose, cupid’s bow and brow bone) and the rest of the face should remain a natural matte. If added radiance creeps to the sides of the nose, chin and between the brows, you’ll tip your look into shiny territory. Try using a semi or natural matte foundation through the centre of the face. Look for a formula that mattifies a little when it sets, but not too much. Then, apply a cream or powder highlight to the high-points of your face. For long lasting results, normal to dry skin types should use a cream and powder. The two textures should work well throughout the day, but again, if your skin naturally produces shine you may need to touch-up throughout the day. Simply press a little translucent powder beside the nose, on the chin and between the brows.
How can you keep your make-up looking fresh all day at the races? The secret to creating and maintaining a fresh look is to start with the right products. There are three key steps every woman should follow. 1. Your first step must be primer! Primer acts as barrier on top of your skin to prevent your make-up from absorbing into the skin and wearing more quickly. It will help to hold your make-up in place for longer, including your blush, contouring and highlights. 2. Set your base with powder, even if it’s just a little bit. Powder will hold your products in place for longer, especially on those hotspots like the nose, chin and between the brows. If you’re not a lover of powder, just keep your application minimal and use a small brush or sponge to apply. 3. Don’t neglect the touch-up. Packing essential touch-ups is a must. Non-negotiables are powder, eyeliner and lipstick - the products that are prone to movement and wear. PRODUCTS: Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Skin Primer $59 DeVine Goddess Lipstick SMP II $38 Camera Finish Foundation $69 Auto Pilot BBB Cream $55
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RUNWAY ROOM COSMETICS
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ere comes the latest from the Runway Room salons and make-up bars. It’s an impressive new cosmetics line, which fills a void in the market for affordable, cruelty-free professional products that are 100 per cent Australian-made. With free shipping. Bonus. Alex Fevola is the professional make-up artist and brains behind the brand. She has worked hard to provide the everyday woman with tools to achieve the perfect ‘make-up artist finish’ at home, without the hassle or the price tag. Lips and lashes form a key part of the Runway Room signature, with products tailored specifically to make you shine. runwayroom.com
VAN DER FAUN
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passion for the classic, the avant-garde and the intimate sees the artisans at van der Faun inspired to create fragrances that are both timeless and luxurious. Created with beauty, opulence and grace in mind, van der Faun’s products allow you to envelop yourself in a cloud of goodness and luxury. The entire van der Faun range is 100 per cent certified organic and 100 per cent cruelty free. A purchase from the Australian-made brand ensures you are avoiding parabens and toxic chemicals. Van der Faun’s products are made from pure essential oils, so you can be sure your fragrances are exceptionally good for your skin, and the environment. Lovely. vanderfaun.com
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ADORE BEAUTY While online fashion shopping is pretty risk free, make-up seems to be a whole other ball game. If the trust factor is holding you back, meet Adore Beauty. Basically a veteran of the online makeup game, the retailer was founded in 2000 by a 21-year-old Kate Morris (pictured). Now Australia’s leading website for cosmetics, Adore boasts a user rating system, guidance on finding your skin type and two free samples with purchases over $30. It houses a huge range of beauty brands (think Becca, Aesop, Sigma and SK-II) with short links like ‘show me the best’. This is online shopping done right. adorebeauty.com.au
saltwatersandals.com.au
FJ ACCESSO RISE
St. Agni
In the beautiful and iconic town of Byron Bay, Matt Fells and Lara Bluett, founders of St. Agni, favour a less is more philosophy. Inside their studio, the couple dreams up clean lines and minimal designs to create all of your leather essentials. Think anywhere from accessories and shoes, to jackets and homewares. Using quality leather and fabrics, the brand’s vision rings true to the freedom of the Australian lifestyle. In earthy tones and smooth textures, a selection of classic leather totes, cow hide cushions, clutch bags and mousepads make up the timeless St. Agni collection. A simple approach to design gives each piece uniqueness and versatility. Love. st-agni.com.au
Kaibosh
Eyewear should be affordable and fun. At least that’s the motto at Norwegian-based brand Kaibosh. With in-house designers working carefully from a small office in Bergen, Norway, Kaibosh shades are in huge global demand. They’ve clocked up over 50 years in the optics industry and so quality is always part of the package. Every model is both bold and wearable, with a range that touches every colour on the spectrum. The label makes sure to keep ahead of trends, continuing to design for some of the top Scandinavian fashion houses. All up, it means you’re looking good without the designer price tag. kaibosh.com.au
GMS Silver Shazoey
In a market that can occasionally feel overwhelming, simplicity is key. Enter Shazoey. This jewellery label favours simple design paired with the radiance of semi-precious gemstones. Designed by former architect Sharon Tsao, the micro-collections are influenced by geometry, clean lines and detailed intricacy, with all pieces handmade in her Sydney-based studio. Next time you're in the market for staple jewellery with an edge, Shazoey’s got your back. shazoey.com
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From small beginnings, GMS Silver has become a go-to for the highest quality sterling silver jewellery. The label carries a beautiful range of both delicate and statement jewellery, refined in style and suitable for everyday wear. Their online shop now ensures pieces are available Australia-wide. GMS has recently extended its range to include rose gold, adding another dimension to the hugely-popular silver jewellery. With new styles released regularly and coveted immediately, it’s worth keeping an eye on their Instagram - you’ll want to snap up these pieces before someone else does. gmssilver.com
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Spherule Designs Spherule is the scientific term used to describe a small sphere. It also happens to be the name of a Melbournebased handcrafted jewellery brand. Taking inspiration from twilight landscapes and tribal patterns, Spherule’s pieces are made using polymer clay. Each bead begins as a prism or sphere, and is then manipulated into various forms, usually in black and white. As a result, every piece of jewellery is uniquely shaped and often combined with feathers, semiprecious stones and metals to create a unique piece. Not only has Spherule recently dropped a new collection, PRISM, the label also has an online store launching this month. Why not treat yourself? spheruledesigns.com
On the Dot Design
If a friend tells you they don’t like wearing jewellery, they must really have their outfits on point because it’s jewellery that ties an outfit together. On the Dot Design is exactly that, the cherry on top. Each handcrafted piece is colourful and unique, bringing joy to everyday outfits. Created by Emily Deneys in central Victoria, the handmade polymer clay jewellery strives to deliver little pieces of wearable art to brighten your day. And because we’re all different, all necklaces come on an adjustable cord to suit your neck just right. etsy.com/au/shop/onthedotdesign
Made In Earth
Nature creates, we enhance. This is the ethos of Bunny Bedi, creative director and head designer at Made In Earth. Inspired by the endless possibilities and the beauty of nature, each piece of handcrafted sterling silver jewellery is one-of-akind with its own unique story. Always striving for perfection, the brand pays particular attention to the cut and setting of each individual stone, and showcases the natural gemstones as the centrepiece of each design. Selling his unique pieces at Melbourne’s designer markets, Bunny’s business has quickly blossomed, developing a strong reputation for high-quality gemstone jewellery with a long list of retailers across Australia. Added to this are his flagship jewellery galleries in Los Angeles, New York and San Diego and of course his hometown Melbourne, with a space in the heart of St Kilda. The unique setting showcases each gemstone in the Made In Earth collection and is one of the largest in Australia. madeinearth.com.au
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FJ REVIEWS
Look & Listen
with GIULIA BRUGLIERA AND LUKE FORESTER
DIOR BY DIOR
THE RAW FOOD KITCHEN BOOK
THE FINEST MENSWEAR IN THE WORLD
Christian Dior
Amanda Brocket
Simon Crompton
There have been that many biographies and biopics about Christian Dior lately. It’s good to be educated but it seems that everyone is taking a little creative license. So it’s nice that in among the many voices looking to tell his story, Dior by Dior sees Christian telling his own. The neatly-written autobiography has been reprinted for 2015 in an elegant hardback cover. It's pretty timeless looking, meaning this is a good one for your own collection (you should start one) or to give to a friend who just wants a good read. There's a reason everyone wants to tell Dior's story and it extends beyond haute couture.
Confession. I can't cook. I think the only meal I've ever made was with an Old El Paso burrito kit and I had to ask my boyfriend for help. But raw food isn’t really cooking, it's preparing, right? An initial flip had me cringing. I read ‘Why I Love Colonics.’ Spew. Then there were swish-sounding ingredients like yacon syrup and Himalayan crystal salt. I thought I'd start easy. Coconut yoghurt sounded impressive and only had two ingredients. Simples. Until I went to open the coconuts. Thanks for the instructions Amanda but NO I DON’T HAVE A CLEAVER. In the end I threw a bunch of fruit in the blender with spinach and declared myself raw. Health is a lifestyle guys.
Author Simon Crompton is an expert in luxury menswear. He gets its importance, so his book is to educate. It tells you 'this is good, this is why it's good, this is how they make it good and this is the effect of choosing this good thing.' Accompanied by beautiful imagery and slick design, Crompton explains what to look for in menswear, and the importance of looking past a label. Think about it. Just because a brand has a great advertising team doesn't make its apparel high quality. My boyfriend said this book made him want to spend money. I'd prefer to say save money. A bespoke jacket to have for keeps? Priceless.
ALBUM REVIEWS UNBREAKABLE
HONEYMOON
Janet Jackson
Lana Del Rey
I can honestly say Unbreakable is one of 2015’s biggest surprises. For most people, the last noteworthy thing Janet Jackson did was her nipple-slip at the Superbowl. Unbreakable is an old school album in every sense, even going so far as to team back up with the songwriters and producers behind some of her biggest jams. The title track and lead single ‘No Sleep’ are easy standouts, both smooth RnB tracks with unmistakable Janet harmonies. ‘Burnitup’ is the most contemporary track and is a total banger. Janet even somehow convinced Missy Elliott to feature. It’s worth it for that alone. I’ve really missed Missy. That said, like many other records in the genre, Unbreakable could use an edit. At 17-songs long, it overstays its welcome with a number of filler tracks. A little nipple can go a long way, it seems.
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At this point, Lana Del Rey is dangerously close to becoming a self-parody. Yes, this album references old Hollywood, LA street names and getting high. Yes, it is getting a little tired. But beyond the usual Lana staples lies a strong body of work and her most consistent record yet. Despite the somewhat upbeat single ‘High by the Beach’ and the bright cover art, Honeymoon is potentially Lana’s darkest album yet. It’s also her most languid, with most tracks sitting around the six-minute mark. It might sound like a slog, but the orchestral arrangements and touches of colour (the saxophone on ‘Terrence Love You’ for example) draw you into the world Lana’s been building upon over the last two albums. On the surface it may seem like there hasn’t been much progression with Honeymoon and to be honest, there really isn’t. But it is a refinement, with noticeably fewer missteps than before.
CARACAL
Disclosure Caracal is basically like the album version of that Ellen selfie full of celebrities from the Oscars. Almost every track has a superstar guest vocalist, but is that enough to make a decent record? Well, yes. The Disclosure siblings have somehow managed to create a cohesive sound – pulling from UK underground dance, American soul, RnB, and modern pop. But the big draw are the collaborators. Caracal features guest spots from Lorde, The Weeknd, Miguel and Sam Smith among others. It’s a pop goliath of an album, dipping into numerous genres without ever losing its glossy sheen. Similar to those classic Basement Jaxx albums, Disclosure manage to transform their older musical influences into modern, relevant hits. Their signature sound is never completely overshadowed by the big name vocalists. If you're going to run with a squad, Disclosure has picked a pretty killer bunch.
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Out & About OnceWas show at MSFW It might have been a chilly evening, but Aussie fashion label OnceWas definitely brought the heat to the 2015 MSFW:Hub runway. Onlookers were treated to a preview of looks for summer, showcasing two of the brand’s latest ranges. Their new spring collection, Linear, captured the spirit of the season, balancing modern shapes with classic silhouettes. The summer collection, Coast, inspired by the season’s warm air, featured hints of romanticism with style, form and design in mind. oncewas.com.au
Diesel Zip-Round launch Not everyone parties on a Thursday night but when it’s Diesel, GQ and the Stenmark brothers, you should make an exception. Thursday September 24 was the night to be on Chapel Street, with Diesel launching their new hightop, the Zip-Round. Given the shoe has a glossy leather finish and some seriously cool zip detail, it meant the guest list was full of eye candy. Style-wise, that is. With plenty of mood lighting, monochrome, denim and leather, it was the perfect way to celebrate a shoe that’s unlike any other. diesel.com
STOCKISTS
323 CLOTHING AGENT PROVOCATEUR AZUL BY MOUSSY BARED FOOTWEAR C/MEO COLLECTIVE CELESTE TESORIERO DIESEL DION LEE DR MARTENS GLUE STORE HYDRODOL INCU
323.bigcartel.com agentprovocateur.com Yazul-m.com bared.com.au cmeocollective.com celestetesoriero.com diesel.com dionlee.com 1800 655 154 gluestore.com.au hydrodol.com.au incu.com
JACK LONDON KAREN WALKER KENNINGTON OF CALIFORNIA LOVE IS EARTH MAMADOUX BY ELLIOTT BEACH MAX MARA MUJI NAPOLEON PERDIS PAGEANT REEBOK
shop.jacklondon.com.au karenwalker.com kenningtonltd.com loveisearth.com mamadoux.com world.maxmara.com muji.com/au napoleonperdis.com wearepageant.com shop.reebok.com.au
RODD & GUNN ROYAL DOULTON SOL SANA SOLID STATE FOR MEN SOMEPLACE THE FIFTH LABEL THE FIFTH WATCHES TOME TRACEE NICHOLS UNIQLO
roddandgunn.com royaldoulton.com.au sol-sana.com solidstateformen.com someplace.com.au thefifthlabel.com thefifthwatches.com tomenyc.com traceenichols.com uniqlo.com/au
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