hints ( F U T U R E ) R E B E K A H
H A R D I N G
19148366 MA FASHION PROMOTION FMP ADM7000
COVID-19: AN ACC E L E R ATO R TO T H E RESHAPING OF CONSUMER BEHAVIOURS
Contents
01.
Glossary of terms
4
02.
Outline
5
03.
Lifestyle
7
04.
Social
10
05.
Travel
13
06.
Tech
17
07.
Retail
22
08.
Innovations
28
09.
POST-PAND-HABIT : Intent Purchasing
29
10.
POST-PAND-HABIT : Virtual Commerce
30
11.
POST-PAND-HABIT : Adventure State
33
12.
Bibliography
35
Glossary SPOTTING: An outline of initial consumer observations VISION: Habit and industry suggestions
TRENDS: POST-PANDHABIT INTENT PURCHASING - Purposeful/conscious consumption VIRTUAL COMMERCE - Digital integration futures ADVENTURE STATE - Future of Experience
4
Infinity Magazine
“The life we predicted is being uncontrollably changed.” A QUOTE BY REBEKAH HARDING
Consumers are facing a new world where the Coronavirus
Integration of multiple social media platforms, AI, 5G, and even
pandemic has seen the globe affected through health,
robots into our lives has been juxtaposed completely with the
economy and lifestyles in the most unpredictable sense.
vast cling on to traditions. Such as physical stores, outdoor
Pre-Pandemic, the retail sector had a growing awareness of
activities, and for some the active avoidance of smart phones
the importance of generational understanding of consumer
and tablets. Digital processes have been developed without
behaviours, and the clear divide that has formed between
having any particular need in societies. Gen Zers are the first
habits. The retail landscape is evolving to cater for far more
body of consumers that have never experienced life without
personalised needs.
internet, leading to their social interactions and sources of entertainment having almost full reliance on it. They are
The toss up of hierarchy between ecommerce and brick &
labelled by LS:N Global as homebodies, societies bedroom
mortar has been the forefront of the industry’s conversations.
entrepreneurs.
The debate surrounds the death of the high-street, and how enhanced experiences can improve and perhaps reverse it. We
Generation Z’s voice for consumption is aching to be heard.
have become overly familiar with routine and tradition, both of
Supportive of causes with a large lack of trust; it was surfacing
which are begging to be broken away from.
that retailers were becoming aware of their new consumers demands, by launching engaging age appropriate incentives,
Whilst it goes without saying that Covid-19 has implicated
through social media marketing involvement on platforms such
the lives of every consumer, it has highlighted a separation
as Youtube and Snapchat. Occasionally backfired by losing the
between demographics via response and coping mechanisms.
attention of older generations.
Gen Z, the digital babies were beginning to inspire.
Millennials are social butterflies. Physical interactions are at
Consumers were starting to engage with a developing
the heart of their lives in work and social positions. Along with
understanding that a predominately digital life was the world
Gen Z, the combined demographics account for 64% of the
that was being worked towards. Competing against some
world’s population (Forbes, 2019).
Millennials and older, who grasp on to physicalities through all areas of habits, and interactions. A report by Inc in 2019 has
As lives have become so cluttered, this middle generation
shown that 2020 was the year Gen Z would reach 24% of the
loves to escape, and engage in experiences that takes them
globes work force (TABAKA, 2019)
away from stresses to a different world. Online purchasing is
Covid-19: An accelerator
5
the most convenient consumption behaviour as it slots in
the overly saturated global market, addressing confused
perfectly to high energy routines. Nearing 20 years older than
target markets to embrace new mechanisms that can engage
some of the youngest digital nomads, there is a behaviour
and inspire.
divide that industries are recognising, developing marketing to appeal best to each, playing with the balance between digital and physical in every sense of the word. The ease of digital lives is forcing brick and mortar to re-write their strategies. Digital pollution is fought against with Baby Boomers and Generation X. Childhood for these demographics had little technology, and no internet. Technological processes were introduced far later, reducing reliance on them. Lifestyles harnessed far calmer, and more consistent routines, with few jolts. Societies older generations have always been a relevant consumer, with room for shifting their behaviours. Often regarded as the more affluent community, these generations are in fact retiring far later than anticipated, with money to spend they quite happily take influence from their younger relations. Retail industries, and their sectors are fighting for their place in
P U M A X M I T, S E L F- A DA P T I N G M I C RO B E S N E A K E R S , 2 0 1 8
6
Covid-19: An accelerator
COVID-19: an accelerator to the reshaping of consumer behaviours
“As children, their neighborhoods were safe; as adults, their houses were affordable. Sure, they had some struggles: keeping jobs, paying mortgages, staying married, supporting us and their elderly parents for longer than they’d anticipated” (Kearns, 2020).
LIFE STYLE
back into a new normality, and self-protection from the virus.
SPOTTING The Covid-19 pandemic has proven that sudden change wasn’t on any ones agendas to embrace. The younger of the generations were committed to their non-commitment, whilst their seniors are accustomed to structure, security and
6+ months into the global pandemic and people are still being
reviving of youth through experience, with many taking steps
flipped into a new dynamic. Approximately half of 2020, the
back from careers nearing retirement to seek enjoyment, and
year consumers were excited for has been suffocated by
taking the attitude after many years in the work force that
Covid-19 in every aspect. With the death of normality,
money is to be spent.
consumers have had to adapt their interactions and their daily routines at rapid speed.
Global digital babies span the ages of 7-21, a demographic hitting numerous stages in life. The older of the bracket are
During a time where the majority of consumers are free to
homebodies, often relishing in JOMO, (joy of missing out),
make their own decisions, enforced global lock downs and
content transitioning between job roles and their comfort
isolation implicates a huge jolt for societies.
space. Labelled as bedroom entrepreneurs, many have set up base still in their parents’ homes, anxious of jumping to big life
The worlds governments have had to consider each
commitments so soon.
demographic, hierarchy and dynamics of life with their approach to the pandemic. Previously, eastern countries have had experience with SARS, developing an advantage in ways to deal with epidemics. At present, people are facing a moral battle between easing
Covid-19: An accelerator
7
“The experience Gen Z is having right now depends on what life stage they’re in” Centre for Generational Kinetics (Hoffower, 2020)
Either on furlough, or having education put on hold, Generation Zer’s during lockdown quickly became confined to a space with their parents, begging the question will this generation switch and settle away from home far sooner? Looking to Baby Boomers, they generally have a world view that is seemingly outdated. The generations average age contributes to their lesser concern for the globes future, most likely because it doesn’t directly affect them. Post-Covid environmental affects will be pretty staggering due to the sudden necessity for disposable products. Even pre-pandemic it was the generation of boomers that were less concerned with the resolution of ocean plastics and other sustainability led movements. It’s this generation in particular that are accused as having it easy. According to America’s National Review, “As children,
blame accusations that they are being cavalier about the pandemic, yet polls indicate that people from this generation are actually taking the health crisis more seriously than older and younger adults.” (Cherry, 2020) There wasn’t just Brexit, the 2008 financial crash and now Coronavirus. Millennials also witnessed the Iraq War and the 9/11 terror attack. It is false to believe that they “will enjoy a greater quality of life than their parents”
(Kearns, 2020).
It goes
expected that there is resent and fear that the future of their planet is being hugely affected by elements out of their control. Bluntly, some generations have maybe had an easier ride than others in some ways.
their neighborhoods were safe; as adults, their houses were affordable. Sure, they had some struggles: keeping jobs, paying mortgages, staying married, supporting us and their elderly parents for longer than they’d anticipated” (Kearns, 2020). Experiencing the latter stages of education during the 2008 recession, Millennials are pretty used to shock events. Unsurprisingly exhausted with setbacks that occur during peak development stages, this consumer is perhaps less adaptable than you would guess. Because of increasing levels of concern for the future, particularly with health and economy, they have quickly jolted from being close to perfecting their work-lifebalance juggled with paying rent, not ownership, many with loans and already impacted by Brexit- developing huge anxiety with life’s new direction.
“Millennials have borne the brunt of
8
Covid-19: An accelerator
VISION Covid-19 has been a catalyst for reassessment of how lives are run. The number of employed American’s is down 12.8% since February
(Pearkes, 2020)
with even more decreases across
the globe. Younger consumers could begin to seek security far sooner, anticipating saving for their futures and the potential for other pandemics and global crisis’s. Career and home hopping were a regular activity for Millennials and Generation Z. Realists or optimists? The globes new normal could see new jobs emerge. A study conducted by Forbes, “Seventy-five percent of respondents said yes. Further, 66% believe their generation will be more likely to work freelance jobs than past
generations.”
(Perna, 2020)
with this, 73%
of Gen Z also believe that the
post-pandemic work life favours consumers mental health hugely.
pandemic will not negatively affect their happiness (Perna, 2020). Covid-19
In this scenario, we could see a new
initially caused a decline in positivity,
development of clothing categories
but has amplified the resilience of digital
to fulfil demand. An increase in home
nomads, creating super independence,
working, with consumers new
adrenaline to become more successful
relationship with comfort, could see
than anticipated.
brands engaging with this new life dynamic to develop collections that are
Will we see a movement of priority to
perfect for the home – zoom balance.
self-security? Impacting lifestyles, The older of the Equip for constant change, the
generations have experienced less
pandemic has enhanced the values of
financial strain due to their position
the younger generation. Already know-
with security. Opposite to their younger
ing that Gen Z are homebodies, Millen-
co parts, there has been a lot of
nials are more the globe trotter type.
satisfaction with involutary staying at
Forming appreciation for remote work-
home. Many have refound their
ing, a reported 60% say they want the
admiration for the outdoors, and
option post-pandemic to
retained their usual habits.
continue working in this way (Smith, 2020). It’s the ideal fit for busy lives due to
Implicated lockdowns meant snatching
reduced stress and the chance to slow
away chances of experience for the
down with reductions in daily
short term. Now looking to the future
commutes. Even pre pandemic we saw
and life post Coronavirus, consumers
research into productively wasting time,
may remain in their new state of
and the effects on the mind. Work can
self-focus, or could even become
be more productive when we make
extroverted explorers.
time for leisure
(Goldhill, 2017).
“The question is whether people will maintain and internalise crisis-time behaviours, or actively rebel against and reject them.” (Schumacher, 2020) Consumer behaviour on one hand hints towards fear and uncertainty according to LS:N Global (Schumacher, 2020). Optimistic outlooks take a huge amount from the months of isolation, heightening priority of self-care, and stripping back from unnecessary indulgences- learning that experiences and materialism is quality over quantity.
“Shopping is no longer a pastime” (Schumacher, 2020) Secondly, the opposite could be suggested. Months of lockdown has left a proportion of consumers seeking out every possible experience. Priorities switch with a person’s hierarchy of needs. A focus on fulfilment of personal desires.
Potential
ZERO WASTE BISTRO, WANTED DESIGN
Covid-19: An accelerator
9
SOCIAL
crisis were pretty happy to go without these, sticking to more common physical phone calls or meeting methods to communicate with friends and loved ones. With restrictions being implicated that meant distancing from
For the most part of consumers lives, physical interaction with friends, family, co-workers are key for a healthy life balance. Involuntary confinement to the home except for essentials no doubt took a toll on millions. Up until this point there was quite a divide between approach to
anyone but your own household- social world. Are the older demographic’s now
Generally, consumers seem to be
understanding the social media hype?
holding some optimism for the future. Not to be confused with the Gen Z
Covid-19 hasn’t only been an
realists, mature generations have quite
economic or health crisis, its been a
likely taken hold of digital social
cause for a social re-evaluation.
engagement with both arms and run
to our usual daily interactions. Anxiety levels were on the rise in younger
(Bona, et al., 2020)
happens through personal life, work, and other daily activities- at points we most likely don’t realise. Whether introverted or extroverted, social aspects do enrich lives and benefit mental health, as well as education, work, and consumption.
SPOTTING Government implicated global lockdowns instantly put a complete halt
with it- not to say it didn’t take a lot of convincing. Once the familiar options were removed, consumers have to become comfortable with the new alternatives. In fact, Forbes have stated that 84% of Baby Boomers believe social media will improve their lives (Wiley, 2020). It’s a non-anticipated transition that at first pushed consumers into denial, disassociating from the impact of the changes they had to make. Social distancing naturally caused anxiety, paired with delayed confusion. Lock down was lengthy, and therefore consumers had the time to adjust to it being a new normal. Societal roles have transitioned, and new communicative
generations even Pre-Pandemic. It’s hard to not have rose tinted
habits have been learnt.
If you didn’t think Gen Z could be any
glasses on when looking at the
more connected to social media, you’re
engagement of a device led social life.
mistaken. WARC have reported that
Refinery29 have released a report that
58% of Gen Zer’s have upped their
evaluates the speed that friendships can
social media use during the pandemic
decay with lack of physicalities. Even
period, along with 22% of Baby
with past global issues, there has never
Boomers
been a period where interaction had to
Digital babies’ social circles orientate
been the globes long awaited push to-
be cut off
themselves around devices and
wards greater digital communication.
has meant friendships have decayed.
(Clapp, 2020).
The pandemic has
Brought up without communication platforms, Gen X and older pre
10
(Beaty, 2020)
interactions had to take to the digital
“Across the globe, consumers have hunkered down and figured out how to fulfill their needs—from socializing to eating to having fun—through a mix of traditional approaches and new, technology-enabled methods. Suddenly, spending time with family and cooking meals at home are sharing the spotlight with video and delivery apps.”
socialisation. Social engagement
has essentially been sped up because of it. And while FaceTime and WhatsApp video might help put the brakes on that decay, they can’t stop it completely.”
Covid-19: An accelerator
(Beaty, 2020).
Social distancing
VISION Covid-19 is a crisis, but also a reset.
platforms. A large proportion of this generations physical interaction was
“What is unusual is lockdown. The process of decay, Dunbar explains,
due to attending educational institutions. Now this has been impacted, with some aspects of it likely
ADIDAS FACE COVERING, 2020
to remain digital for the future means
are being paid far below minimum wage,
to normality as a trigger for
there will be severe physical separation.
only adding further to the income and
anxiety. Consumers struggle with
To Gen Z, social is digital, and face to
equality crisis that the globe is facing.
transgenerational trauma. In history,
face comes second.
Consumers have learnt to look after
research into examples such as the
others and have recognised the impact
Genocide in Ukraine is connected to
that can have.
immediate and generational changes
Most would think Gen Z’s transition to a nearly fully digitally life would be a
in behaviours, and social cohesiveness
stress free, natural transition. Moving
The face mask is the fastest solution
(Cherry, 2020).
forward, might we see this digital
to social normality. ADIDAS’’ mask has
generation pull away from their devices,
been the fasted produced product the
Fashion will move forward with
realising the important of physical social
brand has ever made. “There is an
products that offer physical security,
interactions having missed out for so
opportunity to react to athlete and
and with that comes emotional. Full
long?
consumer needs in real-time”
Metal is a jacket, built with 65% cop-
(Ravenscroft, 2020). The turnaround was less
per it is disease resistant
Coronavirus has sparked the largest
than a month. Along with hundreds of
Practical for daily life, the jacket is fully
income shock since the 1970’s, causing
other brands that have embraced
waterproof and breathable, whilst
an instant plunge in earnings of 4.5%
development of this essential product.
holding the added health protection.
(Sillars, 2020).
Encouraging confidence, Vistaprint’s
We will see a spike in social
responsibility, for communities and
mask campaign show the face
purchase habits. The pandemic has
coverings as being for solidarity, the
brought other issues to the surface, not
ability to open to door to a loved one,
only with wellbeing close to home but
and to experience your favourite places
also the way brands have supported
(Pasquarelli, 2020).
(VolleBak, 2020).
their own communities. It has surfaced that Boohoo Group’s factory workers
Our future could see even changes back
Covid-19: An accelerator
11
FULL METAL JACKET , VOLLEBAK
12
Covid-19: An accelerator
TRAVEL
“9/11 wasn’t an economically driven issue for travel. It was more fear, quite frankly, and I think that that’s really what’s manifested this time” SouthWest Airlines CEO Gary Kelly (Taylor, 2020)
Commutes and vacations are a significant part of normal life, both were fully accessible for most. The lockdown caused by Covid-19 put a hold on international travel. Essential not only for individual business and personal use but for global distribution of product which keeps the economy thriving. Reductions on travel will be the futures normal as we ease out of the pandemic and back to a comfortable reality. This limbo will develop new trends and processes in how consumers vacate, and how brands manufacture. There’s a clear divide between consumers that will hold travel anxiety post-pandemic, and those who have been yearning to escape chaos to a relaxed haven. Covid-19 has had huge implications for the travel industry, comparable to previous disasters such as 9/11. Humans can readily build connections to every corner of the world; it is familiar particularly for the younger generations who have been brought up with the ability to dart from place to place. How will habit changes influence opinions of travel going forward?
SPOTTING Modern consumers rely on travel for multiple aspects of life. The travel norm has become hardly any travel at all. Excessive options for booking flights before the crisis took over meant that staycations took a back seat- this has flipped. In light of seeking some summer holiday normality, consumers are opting for staycations. Whilst it was once far more experiential to travel afar, a report by TopicUK has found that 65% of the UK population do not feel safe enough to travel abroad (TopicUK, 2020) and 70% who have had their holidays cancelled are now opting to rebook in the UK (TopicUK, 2020). Similarly, American vacations have abandoned air travel and are filled with RV trips. Consumers will no doubt feel far more secure when having control over the hygiene of their travel spaces. The Swedish population was always pretty fond of the staycation. A trend that began Pre-Pandemic for this nation that love to connect and reset without travelling beyond their borders. We may see more consumers across the globe understand the benefits of staying closer to home, therefore investing more in their immediate economies.
Covid-19: An accelerator
13
We aren’t new to travel restrictions and changes. Previous
can last minute jet off and escape from reality, and do this
crisis’ such as the 9/11 terror attacks impacted the travel of
nunmerous times. As we exit the global crisis, consumers might
a significant number of Millennials, Gen X and older. 9/11
chase the opportunity to amazing travel deals, enabling them
grounded air travel for a matter of weeks, and consumers
to expand their cultural knowledge since being in lockdowns
noticed an inconvenience to their commutes. More extreme,
for so long. However, travel might never be the same again. It’s
Covid-19 grounded aircrafts for months, with continued
predicted by the International Air Transport Association that
impact for the future, and a much greater generational effect.
travel is unlikely to resume any normality until at least 2023
Restrictions are now being lifted, but most consumers can’t
(Friend & Houghton, 2020).
risk travel that could cause their daily life to be impacted. Each
whether we will see a new form of virtual travel evolve, so
situation was a catalyst for severe consumer fear, therefore
consumers can immerse in new locations whilst remaining
opting for a safer option. Consumers are far more concerned
safe. Consumers may maintain high levels of anxiety,
about contracting the virus than they are enjoying leisurely
preventing them from seeking abroad adventures.
LS:N Global have explored
international travel. Fashion has a large relationship with travel through style and
“9/11 wasn’t an economically driven issue for travel. It was more fear, quite frankly, and I think that that’s really what’s manifested this time” SouthWest Airlines CEO Gary Kelly (Taylor, 2020)
manufacturing. Location has an influence on fashion, and the styles or pieces that consumers buy into. Those who love to style focus their fashion to the place they are visiting, people enjoy reflecting their environment. It’s been published by The Guardian that in 2019 Brits were predicted to spend £2.7bn on summer vacation outfits (Smithers, 2020). As we are moving out
It’s also a huge part of the retail sector. Supply chains,
of the pandemic into a time where consumers are more
buying, and fashion weeks are heavily reliant on it. According
sceptical to travel, and its restrictions are in place; we could
to BOF, in 2015 40% of luxury good purchasing was via
begin to see a reduction in fashion consumption for the
travelling consumers (SOLCA, 2015). China alone as of 2018 made
purpose as there will be a reduced necessity.
up a third of luxury good spending’s (Hopkins, 2020). Restrictions to eastern travel in and out of America and Europe has initiated
Investment in new wardrobes may go towards pieces that are
a huge shake up. The younger Asian demographics made the
versatile; appropriate for staycations, and trips that
Western luxury market as successful as it was pre-pandemic.
encompass many consumers newfound sense of adventure.
Young generations are emerging as keen consumers. Chinas
Our post-lockdown consumer has realised how unnecessary
Gen Zers and Millennials are fairly affluent, and they want to
excess materialism is and might find pleasure in more
spend, with 60% having delayed their spending will resume
convenient travel. The Wolverine Pack
once the outbreak has subsided
self-healing utility pack, purpose made with travel and
(Hopkins, 2020).
It is a case of
(SLUGHAUS, 2020)
is a
waiting for the outbreak to diminish for China to restart their
exploration capabilities. Transitional from the office to the
luxury shopping abroad.
outdoors, this FuseFabric product allows consumers to stay minimal and functional.
It’s Generation Z and Millennials that economy will rely on to re-fire a passion for travel. Younger demographics are globally
Current commuter culture could also change. Before the globe
aware, and value supporting communities. They are switched
was faced with the pandemic, 14% of online purchases were
on to how tourism can benefit their own experiences and
by consumers on their daily commutes (WARC, 2019).
confidence but also financial gain for the places they visit.
Consumers were poor for time, so the commute was the perfect opportunity for brands to hit them with the things they need most. The pandemic has been forced to reset the
VISION
modern commute due to lockdowns remote working, lessening the need for this form of advertisement and sales
Global progression means accessibility to travel will become
pressure. The days of duty free, and smartphone shopping may
increasingly important. We may see popularity with ‘fast
fizzle out.
holidays’. Consumers adore a discount, particularly when they
14
Covid-19: An accelerator
T H E W O LV E R I N E
PACK,
SLUGHAUS
T H E W O LV E R I N E
PACK,
SLUGHAUS
Covid-19: An accelerator
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SCHOKER BY ARCHITECTURE DISCIPLINE, INDIA
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Covid-19: An accelerator
TECH During the current Coronavirus pandemic, we’ve seen a new
organisation platform Trello saw an increase of 73% in
necessity for technology, a digital reliance. Over the last
sign-ups since March against 2019 (Bishop, 2020).
decade, technological advancements have become a large part of life.
We have seen more advanced technologies such as VR and AI as the face of conversations. For years there has been ideas
Whilst the younger generations have a solidified relationship
surrounding the integration into our lives, for consumption,
with digital processes, Gen X, Boomers and older seemingly
development and daily activities- but it’s never been needed.
avoid it.
The Digital Marketing Magazine in 2019 reported that only 44% of consumers are looking forward to having AI
The connections of the globe are increasing, and with rising
technology as part of a digital experience (Acquia, 2019). Until this
probability of future epidemics/pandemics the digital life that
point, consumers have been quite readily avoiding its
has been spoken about for so long could be a reality through
introduction due to its impersonal nature. Covid-19’s infliction
necessity. Digital processes that once came second will often
of physical disconnection developed a sudden demand for
be priority post-pandemic.
tech to become a means to an end. The pandemic has in fact acted as the fashion industries
SPOTTING
needed catalyst for the digitalisation of its shows and processes. Coronavirus’ global lock down was implicated
The Covid-19 pandemic has proven that the jump to a far more
during the centre of the SS fashion calendar- forcing brands
digitally led routine wasn’t as frightening as foreseen. Our lives
to take the approach that has thus far been avoided. Chanel
are interconnected beyond any doubt
kicked off the run of digital shows, but to real disappointment.
(Kanna, 2020).
Across the
globe, humans are facing a common battle that can be
Aside of the bad timing for the show, it’s proven that
communicated through technology.
broadcasting a ‘traditional’ show onto a digital platform is flat, it lacks experience and it didn’t work (Friedman, 2020). It is a really
Generational differences have occurred for digital
positive step for the industry that digital demonstration is
relationships for as long as technology has been a part of life.
being experimented with, but we can be pretty certain it wouldn’t have happened if it wasn’t forced by a global
The tie Generation Zer’s have with tech is indisputable. The
pandemic.
lockdown offered little change in this area of habits with communication and how they conduct their lives. It was always
The brands that found success with digital fashion week, were
believed that digital nomads would transition every part of
the ones that were quite tech savvy pre-crisis. Outlined by
their live to digital outputs if they had the choice, reality shows
Harpers Bazaar, HFW’s show was an experiment of virtual
us that this isn’t so true. Education has taken a full transition
experiences, showcasing collections to a large capacity whilst
to being digital, and although there have always being jokes
maintaining the intimacy that the Chanel show seemed to lack.
about teenagers wishing less time in school or university, it’s travelled to the surface that a purely digital education isn’t a sustainable one. Sacrificing the physical could in the long-term
VISION
lead to a full reconsideration of their futures. Tech can mean solutions for new rules such as implicating a Simple technologies such as Zoom have changed the
constant socially distanced world. sChocker, the social
landscape through lockdown. Perfect for work and
distancing necklace, uses thermal senses, monitoring distance
entertainment. According to the Guardian, a similar work
between the wearer and others.
Covid-19: Infinity An accelerator Magazine
17
OPEN
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Covid-19: An accelerator
PLAN, DIGITAL VILLAGE, HELSINKI FASHION WEEK
“What is evident is that social distancing is here to stay and the fact that it will change our way of life in some ways for ever,’ explain designers Akshat Bhatt, Amit Gupta and Pankaj Kumar. ‘The need was to uphold privacy and anonymity, and allow people to be socially normal and not distant.’” (Hawkins, et al., 2020)
In the context of technology, post-pandemic life may see a decrease in the generational digital divide. There is a proportion of consumers who never felt the need to bring technology into their lives, though are now positively learning to. Technology needs to be humanised to appeal to its new, diverse audience. Gen Z have digital know-how born into them. Not only the main consumer, but also family influencers. According to Agility, 75% of this bracket state that they influence their parents’ habits (Carufel, 2020), particularly with technological experimentation. Physical isolation meant an increase in demand on digital platforms for all generations, for even the simpler of daily tasks. As societies and as a globe, we will begin to see a lesser digital divide between the different generational groups. Pre-Pandemic, tech wasn’t the only option for shop bought basics or communication. With restriction’s, nearly half, (45%) of Boomers have said that they have been shopping online far more (NRF, 2020). Whether this is through ease or for health protection, we can guess tech use will remain far higher than before Covid-19 took over the globe, as the older age brackets of society have come to realise the accessibility and convenience of digital reliance.
Covid-19: An accelerator
19
“While they have created many jobs in designing and deploying robots, the balance will ever more favour machines— especially after the pandemic.” (Khanna, 2020) Fashions future has to have technological considerations. Ongoing social distancing, and reduced numbers in places could mean we will begin to see favour of robotic aid and digital production. Fashions future has to have technological considerations. Ongoing social distancing, and reduced numbers in places could mean we will begin to see favour of robotic aid and digital production. The digital age means for digital garments. Iridescence by FABRICANT, the intersection of fabric and technology. The body doesn’t have to be fixed, and according to FABRICANT, it doesn’t need to have physicalitie’s. But is this a little too disconnected from reality?
“What can a body be when it is freed from physical restraints? What does identity mean when there are endless bits and bytes to express it? Connection is what we yearn for, and connection is what will rise now.” (FABRICANT, n.d.) Post lockdown, consumers want to feel connected and involved, still wanting to deal with real people. Digital fashion shows need to have intimacy and experience at their hearts. Paloma Wool showed their collection via a virtual runway that involved its nearest and dearest being sent the clothes to model from home
(Davis, 2020).
Digital
connection in this way allows the consumer to see pieces on a real-life person, in a real-life situation. Brands and consumers want to invest in each other, with tech as a platform.
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Covid-19: An accelerator
IRIDEDESCENCE, THE FABRICANT X DAPPERLABS
Covid-19: An accelerator
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RETAIL Retail has been clinging on to its comfort zone and traditions for as long as possible. It needed a reason to change and Covid-19 has been that accelerator. The industry has known the issues of fast fashion, and technology for the best part of a decade. The pandemic has brought multiple issues to the surface. It has been the making or breaking of brands, with re-evaluation of how to enter the future of the Post-Covid consumer.
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Infinity Covid-19: Magazine An accelerator
NIKE CAMPAIGN, 2020
Covid-19: An accelerator
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SPOTTING Fashion before Coronavirus had a rhythm to it. The process was repetitive, and few brands were beginning to break out of the cycle. Pre-Virus, most brands had a very comfortable marketing style. The pandemic hit retail in a short amount of time. You would expect the majority of brands that accommodate unnecessary
expenditures
to
have
had to sit back and watch their sales plummet. Not the case for Mango, the brand found that even with the closure of their physical stores, they came to gain approx. 900,000 new customers through their website, which saw a sales increase of 50%
(ISMAILJEE, 2020).
This is
a snippet into the acceleration of digital platform usage due to Covid-19. With no surprise, the frequently popular retail platform ASOS also thrived with their annual sales predicted to be up by 17% as online purchases became the only option (SUTHERLAND, 2020), and consumers were apparently still flush with disposable income despite multiple industries being forcibly shut down. Each of the brands sell basics and loungewear both in high demand from locked down consumers due to the increased requirement for comfort. Physical vs Digital is a debate that began far before Coronavirus was around. New habits across retail have been accelerated tenfold. Generation Z invest in the accessibility of resale. Popular Pre-Pandemic; Depop browsing became an even larger pastime than it already was. Quarantine wardrobe clear-outs quickly became an activity, pushing April sales 150% above the previous year
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(LIEBER, 2020).
Covid-19: An accelerator
Whilst Gen
Z have been locked indoors, they found
other side of the pandemic. A report
more time than usual to connect with
found that 47% of Millennials were
their digital side, engaging in their
reducing spending during the
demographics most loved platforms. It
pandemic (Cherry, 2020), and will therefore
is a community that allows people to
make future purchases with far more
connect over their love for
intent. Are they the worst hit by the
individualistic style, with a sense of
pandemic affecting them as a
responsibility
committed consumer? This is the
and
entrepreneurship.
The pandemic’s global shutdown has
middle age bracket that have realised
given most consumers a big opportunity
the importance of the step to home
of time to invest in themselves, and for
ownership and security for peak
Generation Z, Depop has been a
periods of careers. They want to be
facilitator of this.
able to save and invest to improve their
“Many brands are moving back to marketing basics: demonstrating a core purpose, serving customers in the truest sense of the word, and just trying to be helpful.” (Hamill, 2020) The successors during the most uncertain days of the pandemic were
wealth; switching their priorities from impulse indulgence spending, to considerate purchases with brands that can offer reasons for loyalty.
“forty per cent of this cohort have already said that they are cutting back on spending in preparation for the aftermath of COVID-19” (Pearson, 2020)
the brands that weren’t offering cliché reminders of the globe’s crisis from
VISION
every angle. Audi very cleverly separated their rings to show the importance
of
distancing
(HOWARD,
Retail needs to expand beyond its wall
In fashion, Nike encouraged the
of comfort. Covid-19 has acted as a
benefits of staying home “if you ever
much needed catalyst for some of the
dreamed of playing for millions around
sector’s future considerations of
the world, now is your chance”
direction.
2020).
(Nike, 2020).
Using their known language,
the connection with consumers
Initially designed for the younger
resonated well, as they weren’t
consumers, digital processes are
bombarded with a generic message that
influencing every bracket of consumer
was becoming tedious to see.
as we move forward to a time where people are realising its benefits. A
For the most part consumers enjoy
younger audience needs a younger
engaging with brands that hold
brand, or a brand that can keep up with
integrity to their narrative, and market
the changing ideas and demands.
themselves with this in mind. Gen Z particularly will embrace the brands who are in favour of the new digital experience that is in demand out of the
G U CC I C RU I S E 2 0 2 1 , D I G I TA L S H OW
Covid-19: An accelerator
25
brands.” (Bona, et al., 2020) Real people are the key to a brands future. Pre-pandemic, brands were beginning to understand the demand for products on real people. Marketing Dive have found that 82% of Gen Zers trust companies more if they use real customers or authentic people in their campaigns
(Williams, 2020).
Lockdown forced brands to shoot from home, even still using models; campaigns and product shots had a well needed real feel due to their natural and relatable environments. Gucci’s Cruise 2021’s look book has been modelled by the employees who created them (BOBILA, 2020).
The abstract collection
suddenly became far more relatable.
G U CC I C RU I S E 2 0 2 1 , D I G I TA L S H OW
Digital is becoming the new go-to. BCG recorded a jump in e-commerce of 18% to 30% in eight weeks, which is
The pandemic has hit Generation Z’s formative years. As they
greater than the growth in the past
emerge into their futures, it will become essential for brands to
decade (Bona,
develop ways to define their relationships with this group, to
such unexpected transition, brands
obtain trust and loyalty from them. They have felt a sense of
need to embrace the demands of the
loss for their opportunities, feeling connections can help with
new consumer, particularly with their
this.
newfound admiration for the ease of
et al., 2020).
In a period of
digital purchasing.
“Disruptions—whether technological, economic, or otherwise—trigger dramatic and permanent changes in consumer behaviours, creating unique challenges and opportunities for
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Covid-19: An accelerator
Consumers have been accelerated into understanding the ease of online purchasing even for their household essentials.
“The unorthodox blend of local manufacturing, nimble logistics and aggressive embrace of e-commerce has helped Inditex weather the fallout from the global lockdown better than many other retailers.” (BLOOMBERG, 2020)
In the first few months of the
manufacturing costs to please the
pandemic, Adobe recorded that buy
consumer. However, consumers are
online, pickup in-store purchases rose
becoming more and more in favour of
62%, involving fitness products, as well
brand ethics. The future holds the
as essentials like canned good and
demand for considered ethics, and with
toilet rolls
a movement towards more intentful
(Stevens, 2020).
Retail always
had a rapidly developing digital
shopping, it accommodates increased
presence, and with consumers’ anxiety
prices that fashion retail would have to
over being in small, difficult to distance
implicate.
places such as stores, it is likely that this habit shift will remain. Before the impact of Covid-19, the retail sector had many neglected issues that Coronavirus has pulled to the surface. There was such ease of accessibility to the globe, that brands never developed anticipated systems to a disruption to their supply chains. Forward-thinkers Inditex that houses Zara, uses their stores as their distribution and fulfilment centres for their online purchases. “The unorthodox blend of local manufacturing, nimble logistics and aggressive embrace of e-commerce has helped Inditex weather the fallout from the global lockdown better than many other retailers.”
(BLOOMBERG, 2020)
Their
dynamic wasn’t affected by a global jolt in procedures, benefiting consumers with little change in their customer service and product access. Processes such as this will enhance customer loyalty which is essential for retail futures. The industry relies too heavily on global distributions for reduced
Covid-19: An accelerator
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Gucci’s Utopic Exhibition: No Space, Just A Place. Eterotopia : April- July 2020
Nike ISPA Road Warrior: 2018
MAAT Social Distancing Barrier, Sam Baron: 2020
FABRICANT, Digital Material Samples: N.D
OTHERWARE X PETATONIC, CORONAVIRUS CUTTLERY: 2020
ELBOW SOCK, Raw Colour: 2020
Covid-19: An accelerator
POST-PAND-HABIT
INTENT PURCHASING
maybe less is more. For Gen Z, Quartz have said that “The coronavirus pandemic is a watershed moment in their lives, and may empower this generation to demand even more of companies” (QUARTZ, 2020). If a garment has multiple functions, even at a higher price point we could expect that this would become the first choice. Realising that excessive materialism is unnecessary is also invaluable to the preservation of the earth’s future. Generation Z are educators
As a society the pandemic has caused the globe to evolve a new wave of consumption behaviours.
Consumers may avoid the brands that have
on the severity of this cause. If less is the new more; does fashion need its excessive seasons? Not only has Gucci decided to go seasonless, but the
“We’ve already been protecting ourselves from coronavirus with masks, visors, and hand sanitiser,” Diesel’s CEO, Massimo Piombini, told British Vogue. “Now we can add the latest must-have in the fight against COVID with antiviral clothing.” (Dawson, 2020)
brand has opted to cut down its shows per
to
two
year.
This
new dynamic will hopefully
pressed
have
fast-forward out of the pandemic. Global lockdowns initiated
its lead followed by multiple designers, contributing to a more
a huge pause on lives, that made time for intent re-evaluation.
conscious schedule.
So many have stayed pretty much permanently in doors for the past months bar the weekly supermarket dash, and fashion has shifted down the priorities list. Fashion needs to grab its relevance back. Brands that can offer protection will be key. Whilst the latter end of 2020 will see some consumers grasp on to any sense of pre-pandemic life, the majority are anxious of the virus still so will favour items that make the feel safer. Popular denim brand Diesel has partnered with Polygiene to use ViralOff on products to almost instantly eliminate signs of virus on textiles (Dawson, 2020).
Thriving as a brand in the post-pandemic future means understanding consumers newly learnt perspective that
G U CC I , I N S TAG R A M , 2 0 2 0
Covid-19: An accelerator
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V I R T U A L COMMERCE
industry in new directions that will engage a wider audience than physical shows have had the ability to, and with global conversations on equality it is ideal timing. However, it is not a case of fixing something that’s broken, it’s to begin something new. Older generations conversion to digital life isn’t lightning speed, but it is in progress- the generational barrier is being broken down, and for retail this is a really exciting occurrence
Everything-tech could continue to be the new best thing, for all generations. Humans are so heavily interconnected and are using digital platforms more than ever to engage with each other.
to come out of the pandemic. No generation wants to think of themselves as out of touch. This future needs balance between the virtual and the real. Consumers have spent much of lock down evaluating how to balance their lives and have learnt to disconnect. Digital engagement is quick and easy, it allows the consumer to slow down and interact on their own terms. It is immense growth
As there are increased numbers of consumers using tech
that is leading to global crisis’, and therefore will do more good
platforms to interact, it would indicate that this will be this best
than harm to slow down and focus on societal needs and how
way for brands to reach out, especially with “almost a third of
tech can enhance these opposed to propelling forward.
Millennial (31%) and Gen X (30%) shoppers are more likely to continue using digital channels after the pandemic” al., 2020). Although
(Friend, et
the decline of brick & mortar retail has been
Product narrative is essential to communicate, and with demands for development in transparency it is nearing as
accelerated, digital platforms are to be a driving force to
important as the item itself. The pandemic has given AR a place
reignite the love for the physical store. Brands have had the
in the day-to-day. Wannaby’s Wanna Kicks allows consumers
opportunity to learn about the needs of their future consumer
to test on new shoes via an app on their phone
through the pandemic, and the personalisation it has spurred.
Restrictions will be in place for anything that requires close
(Montes, 2019).
proximities or touch for the foreseeable future for virus There is an issue with the digital future that the tech world has
prevention. It is likely that platforms like this will enable
been longing for. Generation Z in the midst of the pandemic
consumers to engage with the tactility of product in a virtual
have perhaps noticed the impact the void of physicalites have
way.
when they become involuntary. The industry has a creative and human dimension that we shouldn’t encourage the disappearance of. Digital shows will be a chance to be inclusive, and to involve consumers from all corners with inspiring artistry. Referring to Gucci again, they excelled during the pandemic. A 12-hour live stream epilogue, the closing act of a trilogy, in the designer’s case the end to their contribution to traditional fashion. This aside, it imagined a new engaging way of expression
30
(Nguyen, 2020).
Infinity Magazine
The digital fashion show will take the
STUDIO PMS, Digital Garment 3D Modelled Materials
Covid-19: An accelerator
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Villa de Mรปrir Beauty Flagship Store, Garosu-gil, Seoul, South Korea
32
Covid-19: An accelerator
ADVENTURE STATE Consumer futures will be experience heavy.
have. Product care doesn’t have to be a chore. New York’s Celsious is a sustainable laundromat that adores a positive experience
(Feller, 2017).
Plant-filled with a coffee bar and eco
supplies, it is a space to take care of your clothes whilst Physical societal roles are being redefined as we exit the worst of the pandemic. Experimentation with experience was already in full swing but lockdown restrictions across the globe meant consumers fell out of love and need of physical stores. The demand for these spaces has changed, as purchases can be made so readily without them, stores need to adapt into areas that will engage consumers in new experiences that can also mean for product consumption. Enriching consumers with a sense of expression and freedom acknowledges their want for escape. Generation Z’s loved brand VANS London premises House of VANS is more playground than it is store (Front, 2020), creating a community of visiting personalities, it engages people with the brand whilst providing them with a centre for expression. Open far prior to the global crisis, it is a brand dynamic that consumers will most likely see emerge with other popular brands. Spaces can also appeal to the modern content creator. Villa de Mûrir (Hunter, 2019) beauty flagship store in Seoul harnesses a space not only for their products but has dedicated spaces for content creation for the social media savvy. Lockdown meant that consumers had less accessibility to new products and will now understand to care more for what they
immersing in a social experience, all whilst benefiting the environment which is on the agendas of most consumers. Luxury fashion could see a knock-on effect through to its cruise/resort collections with consumers change in heart of their adventure states. Holiday collections are already jeopardised with the introduction of seasonless fashion by some designers. Fashions future could see a lesser demand for such pieces, enabling a rethink of the entire process. Post pandemic demand for adventures could see travel adapt to suit on going health and flight restrictions. Companies are developing ways to involve consumers in cultural experiences without having to cross the globe, which will enable consumers who are unable to vacate abroad due to finances, health or anxiety to benefit from cultural immersion. “Travel and tourism will grow,” he said. “Not by reverting to what it was, but by adjusting to a world where all activities, everything we do in the world will have changed.”- Royal Caribbean Cruises chief executive Richard Fain
(Sampson & Compton, 2020).
Travel can be brought directly to the home. The Wild Detectives is a travel reading agency. A simple process that delivers book’s to doors, taking people to their dream destinations (Detectives, n.d.).
HOUSE OF VANS, LONDON
Covid-19: An accelerator
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Infinity Magazine
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Covid-19: An accelerator
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WARC, 2019. The daily commute to work becomes a shopping trip. [Online] Available at: https://www.warc.com/newsandopinion/news/ the-daily-commute-to-work-becomes-a-shopping-trip/41575 Wiley, D., 2020. Reaching Baby Boomers With Influencer Marketing During The Pandemic. [Online] Available
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Covid-19: An accelerator
19148366 MA FASHION PROMOTION FMP ADM7000