Food and Wine

ITINERARIES TO DISCOVER

THE FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA’S WINE AND FOOD TRAILS

IO SONO FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA (I am Friuli Venezia Giulia) is the collective trademark awarded to all companies in the agri-food chain able to give added value to the region through corporate sustainability and the guarantee of traceability of the raw ingredients. It is aimed at all primary and secondary producers in the region as well as all companies that resell or use FVG food products such as restaurants, agritourisms, shops and supermarkets... Friuli Venezia Giulia is not only a reliable region thanks to its great principles, such as industriousness and know-how, but also a community that rewards, stimulates and enhances companies that contribute to the sustainable development of its territory. And there is more: the products that can boast this trademark give all the information about their origin, guaranteeing maximum transparency to the final consumer.

IO SONO FVG (I am Friuli Venezia Giulia): the trademark of sustainable companies and their traceable products.

Learn more about the Brand on www.iosonofvg.it by scanning the QR-code.

AN AREA TO BE FULLY SAVOURED

A trip to Friuli Venezia Giulia, a region with land borders, mountains, hills, lakes and the sea, combines the pleasure of good food and drink with a diverse, welcoming and lush natural environment, in addition to a history that dates back thousands of years, that is steeped in languages, traditions and important artistic heritage. Everything in one single region. All within a territory that provides the opportunity, in just a few hours, to go from contemplating the horizon over the sea, to admiring majestic peaks or the gentle panorama of rolling hills covered with vineyards as far as the eye can see.

There are more secluded corners and those that are more extroverted, but the inhabitants of this region pride themselves with the authenticity and respect they show for their roots and this area’s treasures. Friuli Venezia Giulia is easy to reach and rewards its visitors time and time again with the land’s riches, whilst providing unforgettable experiences. It is a unique, timeless place, closer than you think... and all to be enjoyed!

The Friuli Venezia Giulia region boasts unique food and wine products which cannot be found in the rest of the world. There is an embarrassment of riches to choose from, with an extensive list of savoury and sweet dishes, wines, beers, and spirits that will provide unforgettable experiences for your senses. The gourmet traveller has only to choose between starting from the Alps or the coast. The only thing that a curious traveller has to decide, is where to start from. The regional cuisine is produced using local ingredients which are enriched with the ancient knowledge that has been passed down by the cooks who during certain historical periods, had to make do with what was available. Ingenious dishes, honed by necessity, have flavours which are so good that they are still staple dishes today. Friuli Venezia Giulia is a garden of delights for any food connoisseur. Discover these tastes not only on your plate,

but also from your glass. In fact, the region is a large vineyard that is nestled between the mountains and the sea, a paradise where we annually produce some of the best white wines in the world. Some of the most renowned companies and wineries stretch from the slopes of Mount Bernadia, Ramandolo, the stony Karst Plateau, the Tagliamento River, Spilimbergo and right up to the Malvasia vines which are reflected in the Marano lagoon. An area of almost twenty-seven thousand hectares, cultivated with love by 1,500 companies that produce eighty million quality bottles each year. Here you can sample the Friulano, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla wine from the hills that stretch from Gorizia to Cividale. There is also the Vitovska and the Terrano del Carso, in addition to the Pinot and Sauvignon varieties which have been planted here since the late nineteenth century. Red wine lovers can enjoy international

varieties or be surprised by intriguing local varieties such as Refosco, Schioppettino, Pignolo, and Tazzelenghe. Two pearls of our winemaking heritage that should be discovered are the dessert wines Ramandolo and Picolit, also regarded as meditation wines due to their aromatic complexity. The wine-growing region includes twelve DOC areas, Friuli Colli Orientali, Collio, Carso, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Aquileia, Friuli Annia, Friuli Latisana, Friuli Grave, Delle Venezie, Lison-Pramaggiore, Prosecco, and four DOCG areas, Ramandolo, Picolit, Lison, and Rosazzo. This exciting culinary journey can take many different routes, depending on the season, climate and what everyone would like to do and see. Let yourself by amazed by the special places and warm welcome that you will receive on this trip that you will most definitely not want to return from.

THE WINE AND DINE ROUTE

A profound food and wine-based holiday experience that takes your senses on a journey which ideally connects the coast with the mountainous area, by passing along the vineyards and regional inland hills. Six experiences are offered to help you discover the region and meet the producers and their productions. Due to Strada del Vino e dei Sapori (Wine and Dine Route), this is all possible in Friuli Venezia Giulia. A world of sensations, faces, flavours and ancient knowledge that unfolds into a set of intersecting roads with no boundaries from the coast to the Friulian Dolomites, from Collio to the great Tagliamento River, from Magredi to Carso, right up to the rolling hills around San Daniele and Udine. Discover all the precious routes which in the hunt of great tastes and fine wines will lead you from Pordenone to Gorizia, the Alps to Isonzo, Trieste to Aquileia

and the Adriatic to Cividale in order to meet the people who produce the products, dishes and wines of Friuli Venezia Giulia and make these unique. The doors of our wine cellars, farms, and restaurants are open to anyone wishing to discover the true heart of Friuli Venezia Giulia.

For information on which wineries are open today and to keep up to date with the Strada del Vino e dei Sapori FVG, please visit the website: www.tastefvg.it

THE MOUNTAINS

In Friuli Venezia Giulia even the mountains are able to gently welcome you. Advance among its peaks and calming nature to experience a mix of unique sensations, at any time of the year. This means indulging in an untouched natural environment offering footpaths, natural parks, lakes, and spectacular canyons, and discovering traditional handicrafts and the local specialities that characterise this land so well. Discover the local handicrafts and typical flavours of the area.

Discover the local handicrafts and typical flavours of the area. The Tarvisio area is characterised by a luxurious, almost fairy tale-like natural landscape, featuring wide valleys, majestic and fascinating peaks, and a thousand-year-old forest among the most ancient in Italy. Carnia opens the eyes of its visitors to an idyllic landscape with seven valleys that run through the Carnic Alps and preserve the unspoiled nature. The Pordenone Mountain offers slow routes which will take you back to the quiet pace of an ancient rural world. Its

valleys and Dolomite peaks offer a unique view of rural architecture, crystal clear streams and lakes, picturesque villages and green woods.

In addition to being united by a rich and varied production of dairy products and sausages, including Montasio cheese, produced in the region since 1200, which takes its name from the plateau of the same name, each area produces its own unique specialities: in the Tarvisio area, the typical dishes of the three borders converge in cuisine that blends typical Central European

and Italian traditions. Here we find Resia garlic, which is called Strok in the local dialect, and Radic di Mont, an extremely tender wild chicory which is picked on the alpine pastures. The local dairy in Venzone produces excellent cheeses, ice cream and ricotta. The Gemona area produces Latteria Turnaria cheese and Pan di sorc (Slow Food presidium): sweet and spicy bread made with three different types of flour mixed with dried figs and spices.

WILD HERBS

Gathering wild herbs in Friuli Venezia Giulia is truly an unmissable and special experience. They have always been one of the most popular ingredients in regional cuisine, and are intertwined with the charm of intact, natural places, surrounded by the pleasure of good food and the curiosity to discover the secrets of the meadows and their simple, unexpected gastronomic riches. Excursions are often organised with the support of local experts, a precious opportunity to discover the green Carnia region, the Pordenone mountains, the Tarvisio area, the ancient Valli del Torre and Natisone valleys, and the rocky limestone plateau of the Carso region. Spontaneous herbs are used in the preparation of excellent risottos or omelettes, as ingredients in exquisite typical dishes, or as a side. They speak of the traditions and rituals of a distant past but which are still present in the everyday life of a simple

rural world closely connected to the gentle rhythms of nature.

Do not miss: “The Summer Solstice Festival,” a magical midsummer night which takes place in various parts of the region. This recurring event is centred upon St John’s Bunch (known as Mac di Suan Zuan in the local language); a bunch consisting of wild herbs picked together at dawn on the summer solstice, the 24th of June. The herbs collected on this day have magical powers to ward off evil and bring about good health and luck. Please note: not everything can be collected and in any case there are weight limits as nature must be respected and wild harvesting is prohibited. For this reason, the harvesting of edible plants in Friuli Venezia Giulia (i.e. plants that can be eaten), is regulated by the Regional Law of September 2007.

Sclopìt (Silene Vulgaris)

Cjarsons

Carnia offers a magical world: a large “village” with seven valleys which run through the Carnic Alps, on the border with Austria and the Veneto region. Whilst travelling through this area, which has preserved a very colourful folkloric environment and fascinating nature, it will seem as though you can still smell the aroma of the Cramârs’ spices. The Cramârs were door-to-door salespersons before the term was invented, who between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries, pushed beyond the Alps, into Germanspeaking countries in order to sell spices and fabrics. Here, the wild herbs which are a generous gift from the meadows, are also used to prepare Cjarsons, semi-sweet ravioli stuffed with various herbs or potatoes, with a mixture of raisins and sometimes even chocolate, which is seasoned after cooking

with melted butter and cinnamon. Each family and each restaurant boasts their own closely-guarded recipe. Many of the fruits grown in this area are used to create handmade specialities such as sea buckthorn syrup, dandelion syrup, apple juice and jams There are also the Borlotti beans of Carnia, the Formadi Frant (a Slow Food Presidia, made with a mixture of grated dairy cheeses with various degrees of maturity, in addition to salt, pepper, cream and milk), ont (melted butter), mushrooms, fruits of the forest, mountain honey, maize flour used to make the typical Carnian Polenta and Savôrs, a mix of chopped vegetables rich in flavour and packed in glass jars. In Sauris, the highest municipality of Friuli Venezia Giulia, there is a spectacularly green lake and enchanting alpine architecture

which leads to a valley where a language with German origins in spoken andthe celebrated smoked Sauris prosciutto (an IGP product), ossocollo, culatello, speck, salami, and cotechino. All of them are produced here and are well paired with local craft beers Even in Forni di Sopra, in the heart of the Friulian Dolomites, several craft beers are produced, and some of these are flavoured with the resins from the woods. The dairy production in the local creameries is varied as they produce excellent dairy cheeses in addition to Formadi Salât and Formadi Frant. In Raveo, you can taste the typical crunchy Esse (S in Italian) biscuits, which have been given this name due to their shape.

The Pordenone mountains are home to specialities such as Pitina, which was created in the 19th century to preserve game meat that could not be eaten immediately. It was created in the nineteenth century from the need to preserve the game meat which could not be consumed immediately. The meat was formed into balls, sprinkled with polenta flour and placed under the hood of the fireplace: to smoke the meat, juniper wood was used. Today lamb or mutton is increasingly being used, which is minced and seasoned with salt, pepper and wild fennel. It is eaten in many ways: sliced and eaten raw, grilled or prepared in a polenta broth. The Pitina is also one of the Friuli Venezia Giuliaproduced products in the Slow

Food Presidia. It is also a PGI product, along with the Prosciutto di Sauris. Asìno cheese, on the other hand, originated from the Clauzetto and Vito d’Asio area. It is a white cheese made with cow’s milk. It gets its unique taste from the salting process used by delicatessens: brines aged in wooden vats which enrich the flavour of the product. From the foothills of Livenza, near the Veneto border, the Cellina Valley lies to the north. In these areas, you can enjoy a Filon, a lean boneless sirloin steak which has been preserved and smoked with beechwood or juniper wood and Brusaula (or Pindulis), which instead consists of lean strips of meat which have been preserved and dried out. Maniago is known as the city of steel blades and in

the Colvera Valley which is not far away, there is a fascinating web of narrow streets that are lined with wooden and stone houses in Frisanco and Poffabro. Near Clauzetto, you can visit the Green Cave of Pradis, and in Anduins, there are sulphur springs. Stirred to create a thick cream, it was then stored in a stone container: the cit, from which it took its name. It is prepared by cutting the defective cheeses into little pieces and then covering with milk, cream and natural herbs. It is mixed together to obtain a thick cream and then stored in a stone vase: a cit.

FROM MALGA TO MALGA

Climbing up onto the alpine pastures (malga) allows you to immerse yourself in extraordinary environments and unspoiled landscapes which are framed by the awe-inspiring mountains and woods and which make the slopes of the majestic Julian and Carnic Alps stand out, in addition to the magical backdrop of the Friulian Dolomites. The trails which lead up to the alpine pastures are perfect routes for finding blueberries and raspberries, for identifying aromatic or medicinal herbs and flowers, and for having unexpected encounters with the wildlife that inhabits these areas. Even the soundtrack here is one of the best: you can hear the wind whistling through the branches of the fir trees and beech trees, the chirps of the birds and, in the background, there is the sound of rushing streams and brooks. A trip to the alpine pastures is a real treat for the senses for anyone who would like to be rejuvenated by

Alpine cheese (formadi di mont, Çuç or formai de malga), smoked ricotta (scuete fumade di mont) and butter (spongje di mont) are the symbolic products of the Friulian mountain, and are produced in Carnia, the Canale Valley, Canal Del Ferro, the Gemona area and in the mountainous area of Livenza. The first two products are included in the ministerial list of traditional regional products. These are products which are full of flavour and cheese

the special pace of life up on the high grounds. We recommend that you climb up to the alpine pastures in the early hours of the morning when the aroma of flowers is in the air, the cattle are grazing and you can watch the milk being processed to make butter, cheese and ricotta. The dairy products can be purchased directly here and the cheese-maker is always on hand to answer any questions you may have. The flavours and scents change from mountain pasture to mountain pasture so why don’t you try to search for the perfect flavour? Many alpine pastures offer farm accommodation facilities and the chance to try traditional dishes, in addition to the products of the Friulian Mountain. Not forgetting the privilege of sometimes being able to follow the shepherds to pasture, assisting the milking and sleeping in the open air, enjoying the enchantment of the stars and the sounds of the night.

culture, so much so that we can safely say that every valley produces its own cheese, ricotta and butter. The different soils, vegetation and microclimate that is found on each alpine pasture, the natural food rations of the animals, the characteristics of the buildings where the cheese-making process takes place and the passion and expertise of the cheese-maker: all these factors determine that these products are all completely unique.

THE MAGICAL WORLD OF BEER

There is a magical world which in this winepredominant region, Friuli Venezia Giulia, is making itself more and more known: the world of beer. The beer in this region has ancient roots which bind it to three important names: Birra Moretti, Birra Dormisch and Birra Dreher. By moving away from a rather industrial production, we also rediscovered a taste for producing craft beer: a beer made with passion, effort and lots of imagination by the master brewers. Craft beer is an unpasteurised product, i.e. it is not sterilised for long-term conservation. It is also unfiltered, so it retains all the components which helped make the organoleptic profile, which is full of aromas and flavours. The craft brewers use natural ingredients, and if they have a microbrewery, they often use barley and hops from the surrounding area. All of this helps create products which are completely unique and cannot be imitated. The beer is mainly

produced with malted barley and/or wheat malt (and in some cases, other malted cereals are used), the basic elements to which hops, yeast and water are added. No preservatives and/ or chemical additives are necessary. The most important element of the entire production is the master brewer. This brewer must be able to balance flavour/ taste and create their own “beer” recipe. A Friuli Venezia Giulia Artisan Brewer Association has recently been set up, which represents all craft beer producers, the regional companies who have a beer brand which is produced using third-party equipment but do not have their own production licence and those who, although they are not professional traders, concern themselves with the Association’s activities and in trying to expand the culture of high-quality craft beer.

THE HILLS

From the hills of the Gorizia province to the Torre and Natisone valleys and the stony, gravelly alluvial plains of the Magredi, a promised land for gourmet tourists awaits us. Four of the DOC areas which intersect this large area (Collio, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Colli Orientali and Friuli Grave), along with their DOCG areas (Picolit, Ramandolo, Rosazzo), represent our winemaking heritage, in addition to the high-quality agricultural food we produce.

Starting from the east, there is the internationally-recognised land of wines, Collio, which is nestled in a unique setting: to the east of the Isonzo river, west of the Judrio river and north of the crown of the Julian Alps. Collio is one of the most prestigious areas for wine production. It was one of the first to obtain the Controlled Designation of Origin in 1968. The quality of the wine produced is the result of a perfect microclimate for skilfully growing vines: there is a mild and temperate climate, thanks to the slopes which grow almost uninterruptedly along the east and west, leaving large southfacing areas exposed. In addition, the close-by Julian Prealps effectively shelter the ground

from cold north winds, whilst the near-by Adriatic cost, which is on average twenty kilometres away, helps promote a more humid summer temperature. This allows almost two thousand hectares of specialised hillside vineyards to grow. These vineyards produce excellent quality wines such as Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Friulian wine, Sauvignon, Ribolla Gialla, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Collio (DOC blend of grapes). However, other delicacies are also produced which will delight your palate. Prosciutto di Cormòns is smoked over cherry and laurel wood and then set to “rest” for twelve months in special rooms that are kept open throughout the day. Another speciality which

has an acquired taste is the Rosa di Gorizia, a chicory with a deep red colour which comes in various shades of red and pink, and has a slightly bitter and crisp flavour. Furthermore, due to past encounters with the culinary traditions of Austria, Friuli and Slovenia, there are dishes such as goulash, blecs, glizlikrof (a type of stuffed ravioli), bread dumplings, kipfel (small fried crescent-shaped biscuits, with a dough that is similar to gnocchi), repa garba and other typical desserts such as putizza, pinza, strudel, Berliners and palatschinke (an omelette that can be sweet or salty with ancient Greek-Latin origins, which later became an Austro-Hungarian tradition).

These delicious local products can be found in the province’s restaurants, the inviting trattorias or the characteristic privade who open their doors in the spring time so that the new or old wines can be tasted, in addition to one of the village festivals which animate the landscape from May to September. Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, San Floriano del Collio, Capriva del Friuli (the Castle of Spessa is a must-see with its magnificent grounds) and Oslavia are just some of the towns in this wine country, all of which have microclimates that are conducive to growing grapes.

Gorizia has the characteristic feel of a border town: you can walk through the Transalpina

square with one foot in Italy and one in Slovenia. In the historical town centre, the medieval castle with its charming village perched on the hill overlooking the city, is a real gem. In addition to the spectacular view, the taste buds can easily be satisfied here with the potato gnocchi with plums drizzled with melted butter, cinnamon and a pinch of sugar, the pan-cooked potatoes, kaiserfleisch (smoked pork loin, sprinkled with freshly grated horseradish and served with sauerkraut), pinza and putizza. If you head south, you will reach the plain crossed by the Isonzo waters, which gives its name to the DOC area; an area of land which, thanks to its current microclimate, which is helped

by being so close to the sea, is also particularly suitable for growing vines. If you pass through the Slovenian municipality of Savogna d’Isonzo, you will arrive at Gradisca d’Isonzo, a very charming fortress town which should ideally be explored by foot in order to savour the views. In the villages you can find small antique shops in addition to ancient trattorias and wine bars, including the Enoteca Regionale La Serenissima, which in conjunction with the wine bar in Cormòns, both accommodate their visitors so that they can try the local wines whilst enjoying the views.

Natisone and Torre are located in the north east: two rivers which sketch out fascinating trails along the north-eastern valleys of Udine, on the Slovenian border. They follow the course of the seasons and witness the birth of the area’s products, which the local cuisine has always used wisely, such as, wild herbs, mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts and apples; the latter of which is used to prepare tempting strudels. The symbolic dessert of Friuli Venezia Giulia originates from the Natisone valleys: the Gubana, made with yeast dough

in the typical shape of a spiral. The filling is very tasty. It contains raisins, pine nuts, walnuts and depending on the recipe, grappa, Slivovitz, honey, candied fruit and almonds. Strucchi are also prepared here. They are small biscuits with a Gubana filling. When paired with the wonderful local sweet wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli, such as Picolit and Ramandolo, even those that are the most difficult to please, will be satiated. The grapes aren’t the only ingredients that produce delicious products here: in fact,

the olives collected on the rolling slopes of the Colli Orientali del Friuli are used to obtain an extraordinary extra virgin olive oil. The olives are pressed using millstones. The Grotta Nuova di Villanova cave is located near Tarcento, which is the largest cavity between two types of rocks in Europe. It is an authentic symposium of stalactites and stalagmites. Cividale del Friuli is considered to be the centre of this wine-making area, which includes the hilly areas in the province of Udine, or more specifically

Rosa di Gorizia

(starting from the north), the municipalities of Tarcento, Nimis, Povoletto, Attimis, Faedis, the eastern area of Cividale, San Pietro al Natisone, Prepotto, Premariacco, Buttrio, Manzano, San Giovanni al Natisone and Corno di Rosazzo, which has a combined total of more than 2000 hectares of vineyards. The wines produced in this area are the result of a terroir, i.e. the combination of particularlyfavourable soil, climate and vine varieties. The soil and climate conditions have enabled native

vine varieties to be cultivated here since time immemorial, just like the other varieties which come from different parts of Europe. These vine varieties grow well here and produce significant results in terms of quality. Local grape varietals grown in the Colli Orientali del Friuli area are Malvasia, Picolit, Pignolo, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Ribolla gialla, Schioppettino, Tazzelenghe, Tocai Friulano, and Verduzzo Friulano. It is really easy to reach the magical Natisone Valleys from Cividale: In Pulfero,

a visit to the Cave and Shrine of San Giovanni d’Antro is a must and the local goat cheeses and the traditional Slavic specialities must be tried: palatschinke, šlicinjaki (a sort of gnocchi made with flour) and štakanije (mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables). From Drenchia, you can skirt along the border and through Tribil until you reach Stregna, where you can try dishes such as mederjauka (camomile soup) and nettle gnocchi

Gubana

The Tagliamento is the river that shaped the history of Friuli Venezia Giulia. It also produced a culture, lifestyle and language. One thing is certain: the great Tagliamento River never ceases to amaze with the path it weaves with its bends, its wide bed and the vegetation that it enriches. It flows through areas where the traditional wine and food specialities include pork and cured meat-based dishes, such as the delicious Prosciutto di San Daniele del Friuli, excellent cheeses and smoked trout. Let’s take the geographic centre of the region and follow a route which starts just north of Udine in order to discover the traditional Friulian cuisine, such as the

great classics which are “furlan doc” staple dishes. Let’s start with a cheese-based delight which few can resist: frico. It is a cheese dish of very ancient production, presented in a crumbly or soft version, in which it takes the form of a pie prepared also with potatoes, sometimes with apples, seasonal vegetables, or aromatic herbs. You can try this dish anywhere in the Friulian hills, just above Udine. This area is full of castles, historical houses and villages immersed in a green picturesque hilly expanse. In Fagagna, in addition to delicious dairy cheese, the curious pestât (Slow Food presidium) is also prepared. We are in the province of Udine and an important food

and wine aspect which should not be overlooked here is pork and all its derivatives: there is first and foremost the Friulian salame which is produced with selected meats and mixed with lard and spices, according to old recipes which every butcher takes care to preserve. There are also sausages, Sopressa, pancetta, lard, Marcundela (chopped liver, spleen, kidneys and lungs), and Musetto, which is usually served with Brovada Brovada is prepared in a special way: it involves turnips which are thoroughly washed and placed in vats in alternating layers with pomace which comes from the red grapes in the region. It is then left to ferment for one or

Frico morbido

two months and, finally removed from the pomace, then peeled, cut into strips and cooked. In Colloredo di Monte Albano, there is the famous manor house where Ippolito Nievo wrote the Confessions of an Italian. If you drop down from Tricesimo and head towards Udine, a left turn will lead to Reana del Rojale: in the Ribis and Godia hamlets, in the municipality of Udine, you can buy high-quality white potatoes which are perfect for gnocchi and soups. Here is an interesting fact: in the Friulian language, a potato is also called a cartufule, which is in assonance with the German Kartoffel. Tavagnacco is situated right outside Udine. Here, delicious white asparagus

is grown, which together with those in Fossalon di Grado, are celebrated in several spring events. If we go down a little further, we arrive in the town in the shape of a nine-pointed star: Palmanova. A jewel of Friulian military architecture which was fortified at the end of the sixteenth century by Venetians in order to defend the far eastern border from Turkish raids. This town and its neighbouring municipalities, Aiello and Chiopris Viscone, are known for their production of goose specialities such as salame, raw ham, cooked goose, speck and smoked breast. The decades-old Goose Festival that is held in November at Morsano al Tagliamento (in the province

of Pordenone) is definitely worth a visit. It is also celebrated at the same time in Lavariano di Mortegliano, together with its young wines. It is in Mortegliano, the municipality with the highest bell tower in Italy, that the Blave di Mortean corn is produced from native corn varieties, which come from the corncobs that are manually picked. This flour is used to make a delicious polenta, and this polenta can always be found on Friulian tables during feast days. And to think that one time, it was the only daily “bread”!

In the centre of the region lies San Daniele del Friuli, the homeland of the homonymous ham. It is so delicious because the fresh air of the mountain meets the mild air coming off the Adriatic Sea, which then combine together along their natural conductor: the Tagliamento River, which can be seen in all its glory from the Ragogna Mountain. The Aria di Festa festival is a must-see. This great Prosciutto di San Daniele festival takes place in the historic town centre on the last weekend

in June. You will find the smoked Trout of San Daniele in Villanova: a trout farmed in the fresh and oxygenated waters of the Tagliamento River, which is then deboned by hand and smoked. In Passariano of Codroipo there is the beautiful Villa Manin, the residence of the last doge of Venice. The Sapori Pro Loco is held here in mid-May, a showcase for the regional Pro Loco, who offer their culinary specialities.

We now arrive in the Pordenone area and head straight for its

capital, Pordenone: a modern and lively city full of cultural events. The waterway runs through the historical centre and is the artery of urban life. It is surrounded by long porticos, where the latest fashion trends and charming coffee shops can be found, which then branch off into alleyways lined with quaint restaurants. The Pordenone area and its valleys, which are a unique mix of rural architecture, crystal clear waterways, picturesque villages and green woods, can be admired through their ever-

Prosciutto di San Daniele

changing views, depending on the viewing perspective. The alluvial soils, which are similar to steppes, are predominantly composed of stone and gravel. They are called Magredi because they consist of poor soils, are lacking in nutrients and are very barren. Despite the fact that there is a high concentration of rain, the soil is so permeable that any water is immediately dispersed and returns to the valley surface, in the resurgence area. This soil was formed over thousands of years from the

sediment of the Meduna, Cellina and Tagliamento rivers.

The presence of the stonesGrave in the local vernacular - which become gradually smaller as they approach the sea, ensures constant climatic conditions due to their natural tendency to accumulate heat during the day, and then release it during the night; this is an important factor for grape ripening. In fact this territory is full of vines, grown by the peoples that, over the centuries, have

come one after another in this wide plain. The wines produced here have distinguishing features: the white wines are fresh, fruity and elegant, and the reds are harmonious, full-bodied and fragrant. The Grave give their name to the largest DOC area in the region, which extends into the western part of Friuli Venezia Giulia, from the foothills to the sea, and is bounded by the Tagliamento river and the border with the Veneto region.

THE TROUT

With its 2500 km of perennial and pure fresh waters, Friuli Venezia Giulia is the biggest Trout (rainbow trout) farmer in Italy, as it covers 40% of the national production. Trout has been caught, farmed and valued in the fresh waters of Friuli Venezia Giulia for centuries, so much so that in 1594, the Archdeacon of Gorizia sent “a keg of Ribolla wine and some trout” to the Patriarch of Aquileia in tribute. Today, the smoked trout of San Daniele, a product included in the regional list of traditional products,

is a prime example of a product obtained with entrepreneurial spirit. It is available in the Regina di San Daniele and Fil di fumo versions, depending on whether the fish has been gutted and dry-salted, or smoked cold or hot. Trout is a healthy locally-sourced fish which is safe to eat and has important nutritional values (omega 3, minerals and first class proteins).

The apple has been grown in Friuli Venezia Giulia for more than two thousand years. In as early as the first century BC, in the surrounding area of the city of Aquileia, a native variety was grown which was known as Maziana, and reached the markets in Rome where it was highly appreciated. Any inquisitive travellers can find proof of this in the very precious Asaraton Oikos (unswept floor) mosaic which was excavated from a residence in Aquileia and dates back to the first century BC. It is now displayed in the National Archaeological Museum. The apple is currently the most cultivated fruit in Friuli Venezia Giulia and covers 54% of the orchard surface area. The Friuli area is particularly suited to the apple-growing sector due to its geographical, climatic and soil conditions which cannot be found in other apple producing areas. If you love apples, we especially recommend that you visit the Maniago,

THE APPLE

Sequals, Spilimbergo, Codroipo and Mortegliano areas. They have 1200 hectares of apple orchards which annually yield 60 000 000 tonnes of apples. The areas of Carnia, Maniago and the Natisone Valleys are also worth a visit because they have recovered and still cultivate ancient varieties of apples, such as the Zeuka apple. Maestro Martino of Como, an illustrious chef of the Patriarchs of Aquileia, was the first chef to use Friulian apples in 1450. It was he who invented the frictelle de poma or frittelle ex pomis (apple fritters).

Interesting fact:

The juice, cider and vinegar produced using the apples, are all included in the list of traditional products from Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italian Ministerial Decree 360 of 1999. Up until the years before the First World War, the apples from Friuli Venezia Giulia were exported into the Austrian, Russian and German markets.

THE SEASIDE

You can choose from the sandy gold dune beaches of Lignano and Grado with shallow and sandy seafloors, or the rocky coves of the Duino natural reserve, where the steep cliffs drop straight down into the sea. Here you will be able to relax, feel safe, enjoy the entertainment and partake in sports whilst also eating well. In fact, whilst eating excellently. In fact, the coast roads are dotted with bars and restaurants which serve local dishes of freshly-caught fish and shellfish, such as the boreto a la graisana, cuttlefish served in its own black ink and sievoli sotto sal (grey mullets preserved in salt for two or three months). For a true and genuine dive into the most authentic flavours.

A maze of breathtakingly beautiful small islands fills the Marano lagoon, which houses a very charming old town with Venetian features. From here, you enter a world where time seems to have stood still. Birdwatchers will love the Valle Canal Novo and Foci dello Stella nature reserves. The latter can only be reached by sea and reveals an incredibly beautiful surprise: a village of reed and wooden huts that started as a refuge for fishermen. Among the many seafood specialities to be tried here, which are the result of skills that have been perfected over the centuries, the bisato in spéo is a must-try (spit-roasted eel). And then there is the brodetto, a dish where the fish is deboned

and passed through a sieve. Your palate will be delighted with the fish from the Marano lagoon such as cockles, mullet, sea bream, sea bass and eels, which are farmed at low density. Let’s now start from the resurgence lands where the clear Stella river flows and leads to the Marano lagoon: at Pocenia, the lagoon’s wildfowl can be tasted, whilst at Precenicco, you will also find those who offer goose specialities in addition to fish-based dishes. Muzzana is a must-stop in the middle of these two locations. In November this municipality holds the Trifule in Fieste, a festival which is entirely dedicated to the precious white truffles picked in the surrounding woods. In addition to a beautiful

lagoon, there is also an elegant beach which frames a precious Venetian-style historic town centre in the seaside town of Grado. The famous boreto a la graisana is a must-try here: it is not a fish soup, it is a soup traditionally made from leftovers which is cooked with turbot or a mix of various fishes. Aquileia is a must-see, as it is a world heritage site due to its Roman and early Christian finds.

It is a border land. One side faces the Adriatic Sea, the other, the harsh Karst Plateau but it leads the way to Trieste. Trieste is a magical city, a pearl on the Adriatic Sea with its Piazza Unità d’Italia, Europe’s largest square which overlooks the sea. As the

region’s capital, the city is actually suspended between the past and the present, with its stark contrasts and distinctive features such as its food and wine heritage, its well-established science research activity, in addition to the bora, a wind which on some winter days, can blow at a speed of 120-150 km/h. If you leave from the eastern part of the city of Trieste, just on the border with Slovenia, you can visit Muggia. This is a town known for its historic town centre which is surrounded by medieval town walls, and where you can try scampi a la busara, which are cooked with tomatoes and Malvasia Istriana wine. Before arriving at Trieste, you can pass through the Rosandra

Valley, where it is possible to take walking routes to discover wonderful landscapes and taste delicious dishes, such as the salmon from the Rosandra Valley and the famous Tergeste extra virgin olive oil, obtained from the native Bianchera crop (which survived the 1929 frost thanks to the Karst farmers), that has recently led to the establishment of the Tergeste DOP. The most suitable area for producing this oil is the San Dorligo/ Dolina area. A few kilometres from here you will reach Trieste and the best starting point is the hill of San Giusto, the location of the first Roman settlement. This is where old Tergeste was built with its homonymous castle that now

houses the Civic Museum: from up here you will enjoy a breathtaking view of the whole city, including the hills and the sea. The beautiful views continue: if you descend towards the coast, you will reach the Piazza Unità d’Italia, where you will assuredly be charmed by the neoclassical buildings found next to elegant cafés, which were once frequented by prominent Central European figures. In addition to the famous literary cafés situated in the historic city centre, various typical buffet restaurants are open all day, where you can try various products such as the porcina (air-cured boiled pork meat) or the cooked ham of Trieste, accompanied with mustard or kren (horseradish

root). The Piazza Oberdan is also worth a mention. It is the first stop of the historic tramway line, whose route provides a wonderful panoramic view over the gulf of Trieste, and then climbs along Scorcola, as far as the Karst Plateau of Villa Opicina. Here, you can then disembark and walk along a scenic road which can only be accessed by foot (commonly known as “Napoleonica” or “Vicentina”), and leads to Prosecco. Besides from meat, you can also ask for pedoci, i.e. mussels (those “a la scotadeo” are delicious), caperozzoli (clams) and sardoni (anchovies) here which are the most popular in the gulf: try the sardoni in savor which are fried anchovies marinated in vinegar and onion. The wonderful area of the Karst Plateau is worth discovering. The Terrano wine road, together

with the Malvasia and Vitovska white wines, is the gem of wine production in these areas. The soil in the Karst plateau mainly consists of limestone which, due to its permeability, has given rise to a unique phenomenon which has been named “Karst”, whose key aspects include sinkholes and caves. For this reason the soil in the Karst plateau is dry and difficult to cultivate vines. The soil has to be tilled in order to make it fertile and simultaneously promote the development of those organoleptic qualities which set these wines apart from the rest of the wines produced in Friuli Venezia Giulia.

Thanks to the commitment of the tenacious local producers, the high planting density, reduced yields, wine being aged in wooden barrels and the climatic and soil conditions, the wines that are

produced seem to represent the determined and strong character of the local inhabitants. An example is the Terrano, a red wine with low alcoholic content and marked acidity. It has an acquired taste but pairs wonderfully with the traditional local rural foods, such as pork meat and jota (a traditional bean and sauerkraut soup). If you follow the Terrano wine road, you will arrive at Prepotto, where the Jamar cheese is produced. This cheese is aged for at least four months on the bottom of a Karst cave (which is called a jama in Slovenian). Pass through Samatorzo and head towards Sgonico in order to visit the Carsiana Botanical Garden, which holds over a thousand species of plants. This area is full of farm holiday cottages and osmize (pop-up wine taverns), which are signposted by leafy

branches hung along the road. The word osmiza, osem is of Slovenian origin and means eight, as eight was the amount of days that these facilities could once be kept open for business. In these small rustic paradises (that often overlook the sea) one can taste, besides from the above-mentioned Jamar, the other products from the Karst Plateau: pickles, raw ham from the Karst plateau, typical cheeses, which will perhaps even be accompanied with Marasca honey, which is very popular in the area, porcina or homemade bread. Everything is served with a glass of Terrano or the aromatic Vitovska wine, which is obtained from the homonymous white grape variety. Today the opening periods are less strict than in the past and it is very likely that you will find an osmiza open in any month of the year: just keep an eye out for the leafy

branches along the road. When in Monrupino, where cheeses are enriched with wild fennel or savory (a wild plant of the plateau), the ice cream made with sheep’s milk is definitely worth a taste. Moreover, the Monte Re cheese (Nanos in Slovenian) was created here and is nowadays only produced in one dairy: the tradition of how it is prepared seems to date back to the Austro-Hungarian period. Visit the eighteenth-century Karst House, with the interesting ethnographic museum. The tradition of producing cheese has given rise to a consortium of producers: Moisir (from moj sir “my cheese” in Slovenian). Most of these products are not pasteurised in order to keep the bacterial load intact and enhance the botanical richness found in the fodder used to feed the animals. Besides the cheeses, on the

plateau you can also find lamb, which is usually reared in the fresh air. The meat of the Istrian lamb is very tasty because of the Karst herbs that it feeds on. Do not miss a visit to the spectacular Grotta Gigante (Giant Cave): the largest cave open to tourists in the world. In the Rosandra Valley, you can follow routes that will lead you to discover a Roman aqueduct and astounding natural settings. Between Monfalcone and Ronchi dei Legionari, food connoisseurs will then be bowled over with the stewed cuttlefish and spaghetti with cockles. If you venture even further to the east, past the coast lined with white cliffs, you will find the picturesque Duino and Miramare castles

THE HISTORICAL CAFÉS OF TRIESTE

A pleasant break in one of Trieste’s historical cafés is a-must experience. You can learn about the rich culture of this border city, where history and heritage is intertwined with the Mediterranean, Central Europe and Slovenia. Whilst remaining faithful to the Viennese model of cafés being a privileged place for meeting or spending one’s free time in the company of a good book or newspaper, the historical cafés of Trieste have a retro charm. They are vestiges of the unmistakeable stylistic influence that Middle Europe once had on this city. Trieste just wouldn’t be the same without its historic and famous cafés: it is easy to imagine James Joyce, Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba sipping their revitalising drinks and being carried away by the enchanting atmosphere of the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century.

But how do you order a coffee in Trieste, you may ask?

The special relationship that links the residents of Trieste with this fragrant drink, is also clearly visible from the local terminology. It can be a real headache for those who do not live in Trieste however!

Here is a little guide for you:

An espresso > un nero

A caffè macchiato > un capo

Espresso served in a typical small glass > un nero in B

Caffè macchiato served in a typical small glass > un capo in B

A cappuccino > un caffelatte

THE WINES OF FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

The land in Friuli Venezia Giulia, which is particularly heterogeneous for its soil and climate, makes it a perfect natural environment for vine-growing and producing excellent wines. In this precious part of the world, which is at the border and is the central focus of thousands of Latin, Slavic and Germanic cultural traditions and stories, the focus is placed on producing excellent wine. The wine is so good here that it can be placed on the highest pedestal in terms of quality on a worldwide scale. This is due to the different and varied geographical and climatic characteristics of Friuli Venezia Giulia, combined with the history, where those unique traits were honed which make the wine-making culture and the richness of the native and international grape varieties found on the region’s entire land, stand out. It is a paradise where we annually produce around 90 million bottles, including some of the best white wines in the world and great red wines of a high calibre. The variety of soils and climates has led to the identification of twelve DOC areas and four regional DOCG areas. In the Annia, Aquileia, Grave, Isonzo and Latisana plains; the rocky Karst Plateau

and the hilly areas of the Colli Orientali, with its three jewels: Ramandolo, Friuli Picolit and Rosazzo, which are protected by the DOCG denomination, and Collio, which was the first to be granted the DOC denomination in the region. We also have the two interregional DOC areas of Lison-Pramaggiore and Prosecco, along with the Friuli Venezia Giulia DOC. Unique native grape varieties are cultivated in Friuli Venezia Giulia such as the Friuliano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Vitovska, in addition to internationallyrenowned grapes. Though, when these international varieties are grown here, they present unique distinguishing characteristics like those we find in the Pinot Grigio, (the most-cultivated grape variety in the region), Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, which are among some of the best in the world. It is a land which also boasts fine sweet wines such as Picolit and Ramandolo. It is a land that also boasts fine red wines of excellent calibre, including Pignolo, Terrano, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

THE BARBATELLA WINE CUTTING

The world’s largest vine nursery is located in Rauscedo in Friuli Venezia Giulia. It involves the Cooperative Nurseries of Rauscedo (VCR). Being able to rely on a uniform vineyard which is healthy, productive and long-lasting, is what these cooperatives ask of the winemakers from all over the world. Starting with a high-quality vine cut is a must!

What is vine cutting?

Vine cutting involves cutting off a small shoot from an adult vine; this shoot is then planted in special so-called “forced” crates which contain soil, sand and sometimes even sawdust. The shoot is watered so that the cut end begins to develop roots. Once the roots have developed, the initial cutting becomes autonomous in all respects and can be planted with others to create a new vineyard. The vine cuttings

available on the market have usually already been grafted; this means that they are obtained from the union of two distinct shoots which have grafted to each other and are known as bionts. The lower part is called the rootstock and this produces the root system, whilst the upper part is called the scion and will be the crown; i.e. the part that bears the fruits. For several years now, the production in Rauscedo has exceeded 60 million cuttings and this work involves, not only the 250 members and their families, but also more than 2000 local and third country workers.

Interesting fact:

The small plant which has undergone the vine cutting process is called “BARBATELLA” in Italian because when the cut end begins to develop roots, these look like a short beard (barba in Italian).

PROSCIUTTO DI SAN DANIELE AND OTHER CURED MEATS

Sassaka

Producing Prosciutto di San Daniele requires many skilful steps which are still carried out according to the ancient artisan tradition. However, the real secret of this process is the microclimate in San Daniele. Cool breezes come from the Alps and meet the humid currents of the Adriatic Sea. The morainic soil helps promote ventilation which affects the percentage of moisture, thus ensuring that there is the perfect balance for ageing. The production environment is extremely important for the ham (as well as the other typical agricultural food products in the area). The production starts by selecting the pigs, which are strictly Italian of course, and have been carefully monitored since birth and fed in a controlled manner. The best thighs are then selected, and these must weigh at least 12 kg. The weight is very important because it determines the duration of the salting process which uses medium grain sea salt: this causes the moisture to be dried out and this is how the ham acquires its typical taste. After the initial check that the thighs are compliant, the thighs are branded with the DOC mark and the processing start date. The thighs are then covered with sea salt and

left to dry out for a number of days equal to their weight. The next step is the pressing process. It penetrates the salt deeply into the meat and gives the meat the perfect consistency for the subsequent ageing process. The preliminary ageing process is then started, where the hams are left to age for three months. At the end of this period, the hams are washed and hung in the salons for at least another eight months of curing. In the meantime, the hams are “stuccati”, meaning that they are covered with lard, a white mixture of flour and pork fat, which prevents the meat, uncovered by the rind, from drying out too quickly. During the ageing process, periodic checks are carried out such as “spiking” which involves inserting a verythin and porous horse bone into the meat. The bone retains the fragrance of the meat, and lets the experts smell this to confirm the quality of the product. When thirteen months have passed since the process started, the INEQ Certifying Institution performs the final checks. The hams which meet all of the requirements of the Production Regulations, are certified and branded with the Consortium’s mark.

PORK MEAT

Originally, the pig was an animal that had never seen the sea, and for this reason it was a bit grumpy. Today its thighs are transformed into Prosciutto di San Daniele with the help of sea salt, and it is now appreciated worldwide for its sweetness, especially when paired with a glass of inebriating Friulian wine. It is certainly the most recognised ham among the regional hams, and the European Union has begun to acknowledge its DOP status. The ancient smoking technique is also commonly used with other hams. Prosciutto di Cormòns is one of these hams, whose shape helps preserve the leg; the others are Prosciutto di Sauris and Prosciutto di Carnia, whose salting process is also very crucial. For several years now, the area has also resumed its production of raw hams on the Karst plateau, which are characterised by their distinctive drying process, caused by the specific climate, the bora (wind) and the long ageing process. The so-called Prosciutto Cotto Praga (Prague cooked ham) has different roots and can only be found in Trieste. It is usually cooked on the bone, lightly smoked, sold warm and cut by hand. Among the many cured meats which come from this region, the most sought after is most definitely the Friulian salame which is made with mixed pork meat then mixed with lard and rolled pancetta with rind. It is then minced and spiced in slightly different ways, according to each butchers’ traditional recipes. It can also be smoked. The salam di cueste, which takes its name from the fact that the product is obtained from the deboned rib, is very tasty and full of flavour. A typical product not only of the delicatessens in Friuli Venezia Giulia, but also of other Italian regions (Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise) is the Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora which gets its name from the tradition of hunters eating it during hunting trips. It is small and

soft with a sweet yet savoury taste and is full of first class proteins. It is protected by the DOP status. The soppressa and lujànie (sausage) have origins which are just as old. The first comes from a mixture of coarsely minced meat which is then spiced and aged for up to 12 months. The other which is also known as a Luganega Sausage, is a mix of pig meat (the ribs, shoulder and other fatter parts) with the addition of herbs which are chosen according to family traditions. The sausage is eaten cooked. And finally, there is the Musetto. A mixture of lean meat, pork rind lard, pork shoulder, snout and sometimes hard lard, which is then seasoned, minced and bagged. Like the other sausage delicacies, the Musetto is enclosed in a casing and was traditionally and is still today, served with brovada.

The best sausage varieties are always encased.

Even the fatty parts of the pig are prepared in such a way that they can also be eaten. There are various types of pancetta: the typical bacon in Carnia is sweet rolled pancetta which is sometimes smoked and then aged for 6-8 weeks. In the rest of the region, the pancetta arrotolata manicata (sleeved rolled pancetta) is popular. It takes its name from the fact that once the meat has been salted, spiced and rolled, it is inserted into a special kind of gut called the manica stagionata (literally matured sleeve). Another fatty part which can be consumed is the sbarbot (Barbonzàl), a cheek lard which is spiced, smoked and rolled. After it has been seasoned with salt and pepper, it is sealed with lard. In the Canale Valley and Canal del Ferro, other lard-based dishes can be found, such as argjel, which is spiced and minced, and sassaka (cured lard and pancetta) which are both delicious and ready to be spread on bread.

MONTASIO CHEESE

Montasio cheese originates and takes its name from the Montasio mountain range which is located in the Julian Alps of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Its production began in around 1200 in the valleys of the Julian and Carnic Alps. With time, it spread throughout the entire Friuli-Veneto plain, whilst staying true to the strict rules of its ancient tradition. Montasio is a big cooked semi-hard cheese that is made using cow’s milk and has a characteristic soft and delicate balanced flavour which is not overpowering. It is particularly easy to digest and the ideal food for children and the elderly.

There are four types of Montasio cheese, and all of these depend on its age:

* Fresh (matured for 60 to 120 days)with a soft and delicate taste

* Semi-aged (matured for 5 to 10 months) with a full and firm flavour

* Mature (more than 10 months) full of lovely flavours

* Extra mature (more than 18 months) can also be grated

Fresh Montasio is a cheese with a white and compact paste, homogeneous holes and a smooth rind. As time passes, the paste of the semi-aged and mature Montasio cheese becomes increasingly grainy and crumbly, whilst the rind becomes drier and a darker colour.

TERGESTE OIL AND OTHER OILS

Further north of the latitude of Friuli Venezia Giulia, olive trees do not grow. Therefore it is right here, in the southernmost part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, where Vienna, Ljubljana, Budapest and Prague has always been supplied with wine and olive oil. The numerous frosts which cyclically hit these areas, has never stopped the olive trees from growing, and in fact, they have increased over the years. In 1857, the Agricultural Association was established in Trieste in order to promote “the growing and packaging of oil” which suffered a long setback after the frost of 1929. This aim was reached, just over half a century later, due to a slow but positive regrowth which was also promoted by the developmental policies that had been implemented by the region. Recently there has been a strong crop development, especially when you consider that in the mid-80s, there were only 11 hectares of olive trees in Friuli Venezia Giulia, and today there are almost 300, and this trend is gradually

increasing. The extra virgin oil produced in the province of Trieste, is protected by the Tergeste Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) mark, which predominantly uses the Bianchera olive variety. The Bianchera olive tree is protected by the native DOP of the Karst plateau, but different percentages of Maurino, Carbona, Drobnica and Monticula are also used. The oil that is obtained is pleasantly aromatic, light and delicate. It is easily identifiable and is sold as either a pure monovariety or a blend, where different percentages of each variety are used. In the easternmost foothills of the Pordenone province, including the municipalities of Caneva and Polcenigo, lies another area where the Maurino, Pendolino and Frantoio olive varieties also thrive. The obtained oil is characteristically veiled by the strong easilyidentifiable flavour and sweet taste which is never overbearing. High-quality olive oil is also produced in the Isontino and Colli Orientali del Friuli areas.

BROVADA

When the wine has been made, the pomace which remains can be used to produce grappa, or an ancient procedure can also be used which uses field turnips (Brassica rapa). Although there are many descriptions, the one that stands out the most is the one by Giuseppe Ferdinando del Torre, a pharmacist in the Austrian Friuli who wrote the “Il Contadinel” (1856-1895), where he described a method for preserving the turnips. “Stratify them in a container with the pomace and add the given amount of water. When they are arranged in this way, they become completely acidified and are then called bruàda or sbrùada

They are then cooked and seasoned and can either be eaten like this or mixed with sauterkraut in a bean soap, and this is called jota.” This is the brovada, which is eaten with musetto, an undisputed treasure of Friulian cuisine. It is also prepared by the Slovenians in the Karst Plateau under the name repa. It is a healthy product which is low in calories, high in fibre and calcium, and has prompted some producers to join the Association in order to protect and promote this traditional recipe. Since 2011, brovada has been protected by the DOP mark which guarantees both the quality and the origin of the product.

PGI PRODUCTS

Prosciutto di Sauris

For over a century, the quality of this product has never been disputed: the special climate in Sauris, combined with the expert smoking process, has made this product rapidly expand from having a strictly regional small-scale production, to entering the Italian and foreign markets. In order to meet the demand for this product, the production capacity has significantly increased in the new millennium. This has benefited the marketing of all typical products: in addition to the PGI ham, there is speck, ossocollo, salami, pancetta, lard, cotechino and sausages. Prosciutto di Sauris is a salty raw ham that is smoked and aged for at least ten months. It is produced exclusively in the municipality of Sauris from the thighs of pigs that were born, raised and slaughtered in specific areas of Italian regions. When the ageing process has finished, the Prosciutto di Sauris is sold as a whole, on the bone. It has a delicate flavour and a sweet taste with a mild smoky note.

Pitina

Pitina was created by the poor country folk as a method of preserving meat during the autumn and winter months in the traditionally poor areas, such as the valleys north of Pordenone: if a chamois or roe deer had been killed or if a sheep or goat had been hurt or was ill (they were too precious to be slaughtered), they needed to find a way to make sure none of the meat was wasted. If was from this need to preserve the meats that the pitina and its variants (peta and petuccia) originated. The variants differ because different herbs are added to the dough and, the peta is also bigger in size. The animal was deboned and finely minced in a pestadora (a hollowed-out wooden stump). Salt, garlic and chopped black pepper was added to the meat. In the Tramontina Valley, an area where the pitina was produced, wild rosemary was also added.

In the Cellina Valley, an area where petuccia was produced, wild fennel and juniper berries were added instead. The peta, a bigger-sized version of the pitina, was typical of Andreis in the Cellina Valley: it was round, slightly flattened, bigger than the pitina and petuccia, and could even weigh up to one kilo. The minced meat was then formed into little balls, sprinkled with cornmeal and smoked on a shelf of a traditional Friulian fireplace. The pitina began to dry out as time passed, and it was then softened in a polenta broth in order to be edible. These days, pitina is refined by adding a proportion of pork fat (lard or meat taken from the neck), which softens the intense, gamey flavour of the venison, goat or mutton. The meat is smoked using different aromatic woods, or sometimes a mix (but beech is the one more prevalently used). Unknown outside Friuli’s mountain foothills, pitina was at risk of disappearing, with fewer and fewer producers making it. The Slow Food Presidium united four pitina producers who are now working together to promote the product in local restaurants and expand the market. The pig meat softens the hircine flavour of the goat or mutton, whilst retaining the intense smoked and fresh herb flavours. Today, pitina is eaten raw in thin slices, after it has been aged for at least 15 days. It is also very tasty when cooked. It can be seared in vinegar and served with polenta, sautéed with butter and onion, added to potato soup, or still fatto al cao, i.e. cooked in freshly drawn cow’s milk. Finding a wine that pairs well with this product will not be difficult in an area like Friuli Venezia Giulia, which boasts an excellent range of white wines. Its pairings can also extend to Sauvignon or Pinot Grigio, even though the very traditional Friulian wine, ultimately remains the best accompaniment.

THE SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA

The Slow Food Presidia sustain high-quality small productions which are at risk of extinction, protect areas, recover traditional trades and processing methods and also safeguard native breeds and local plant and fruit varieties from extinction. The Presidia directly involve the producers, offer assistance in order to improve the quality of the products, facilitate exchanges among different countries and seek new openings in the market.

There are seventeen in Friuli Venezia Giulia and you can discover where the products are produced here:

Resia Garlic

Resia garlic, which is called strok in the local dialect, is a sweet garlic variety that does not have an acrid aroma like the common variety. It is particularly suitable for using when producing cured meats. The crops are natural and are fertilised by cow manure. The production area is the Resia Valley and the Tarvisio area.

Alto Friuli Heirloom Apples

Apples have been cultivated in Friuli-Venezia Giulia since at least the time of the Romans, but it was between the end of the 1700s and the start of the 1800s that apple growing in Friuli really developed, particularly in hilly and mountain areas. From the end of the 19th century until the First World War, the region’s apples were exported around northern Europe (to Austria in particular), to Egypt and even to the United States.

Some of the cultivated varieties were native, while others were imported by Friulians who had emigrated around the world. When they returned home they brought with them grafts and seeds of varieties they thought would produce good harvests. Slow Food has united the growers who still preserve these heirloom apples in order to recover the historical varieties and return dignity to the small-scale farmers working to keep alive the marginal mountain foothill areas. The Presidium has identified ten varieties to

be promoted (Gialla di Priuso, Di Corone, Ruggine Dorata, Rosso Invernale, Chei di Rose, Naranzinis, Striato Dolce, Zeuka, Marc Panara and Blancon) and drawn up a production protocol, which defines the production area and specifies that sustainable cultivation techniques must be used. The names of the apples came from the appearance of the fruits or the plants (Ruggine Dorata, Striato Dolce, Blancon), from their ripening, use or flavor (Rosso Invernale), from the place where the plants were found (Zeuka di Treppo, Giallo di Priuso) or the name of the person who introduced or owned them (Marc Panara).

Brovadâr of Moggio Udinese

Brovadâr, also known as brovedâr, is a fermented turnip, traditionally prepared in the mountain area of the Val d’Aupa, in the north of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Purple topped turnips are used to prepare it, with a rounded shape and small in size, whose seeds have been handed down for generations by the families of Moggio Udinese, a town surrounded by the Julian and Carnic Alps, linked for centuries to this type of production. The leaves and roots are used to obtain the brovadâr. They are first washed in cold water and then boiled, left to cool and layered in wooden vats, before being pressed by hand. Salted cold water is poured into the container to cover the entire production, and a weight is placed on top so that the turnips remain covered with the liquid throughout the fermentation period lasting approximately two months.

Cavolo Capuccio (White Cabbage) of Collina

The municipality of Forni Avoltri is located at about 1200 metres of altitude at the foot of mount Coglians. Here in the hamlet of Collina, a particular cabbage is grown. The peculiarity of this village is the lower than average temperatures that consent the cultivation of this vegetable on terraced land exposed to the south. In the past, precisely because of the rigid climate, the cabbage, along with barley

and rye, was one of the few cultivable species in the area. However, over time and due to the progressive depopulation of mountain areas, it has almost disappeared from local productions. Unlike other types of cabbage, this one has a very different shape: it is long and has a crushed top, a lot more leaves, which are also thinner and more compact. It also has a spicier taste.

Cipolla di Cavasso e della Val Cosa

This vegetable is grown in the foothills of western Friuli, and more specifically, in an area enclosed by the Meduna and Cosa rivers. It is known for its typical red tunic with golden hues and the Cosa Valley onions tend to have a pinker hue. The inside is crisp and sweet, which also makes this onion perfect for eating raw as it is never sour. The Cavasso and Valcosa Onions are picked in August and once they have been woven into braids, they can keep all year round.

Çuç di mont

In Carnia, Val Canale, Canal del Ferro and all of the Friulian Dolomites, up to the mountainous Livenza area, along with the seasonal migration of livestock, for generations the families passed down the technique of preparing formadi di mont (mountain cheese), traditionally known as çuç in Friuli. The cheesemaking technique involves mixing the milk from the previous evening (raw and partially skimmed) with fresh milk in a cauldron. When the temperature reaches 32-36°C, calf rennet is added and the resulting curd broken into small pieces, the size of rice grains. The curd is then heated to 44-47°C for around 30 minutes. After a resting period in the cauldron, the curds are removed by hand, with the help of a linen cloth, and placed in molds. The forms are pressed and turned a number of times, then in the evening they are immersed in brine, where they are left for 24 hours. Lastly the forms are left to dry on wooden boards. During their aging, the cheeses are cleaned and turned every day. The minimum aging period is 45 days, but çuç di mont only reaches its peak after a year.

Fagiolo of San Quirino

The bean of San Quirino (a small town in the Pordenone area) belongs to the Phaseolus vulgaris species and has been grown in this area, together with broad beans and lentils, since the beginning of the 19th century. It is an elongated, light brown bean featuring a white eye and a dark brown iris on its skin. The beans were traditionally harvested manually, by pulling up the dwarf plants, planted in rows, and leaving them to dry before beating them with wooden sticks to extract the seeds from their pods. The beans would be left to dry in the sun for a few days and then stored in jute sacks. After cooking, the bean’s skin becomes very thin and almost undetectable while the flesh remains compact and smooth, characteristics that make it unique.

Fava (Broad beans) of Sauris

The municipality of Sauris is located in the far north of Friuli Venezia Giulia, close to the Austrian border. Here, at 1200 metres of altitude a particular type of broad bean, already well known in 1683 finds its ideal growing conditions. The Sauris broad bean is an annual plant, which is sown in May and harvested at the end of August. Once, toasted and ground, it was considered an excellent flour for making bread or an alternative to coffee. In recent years, the inhabitants of the area have rediscovered this variety of legumes and resumed its cultivation, also promoting it as a key element in the diet of their mountain villages.

Latteria turnaria cheese

The latteria turnaria tradition (a type of cooperative dairy), was once very common in Friuli. It was an easy and economical way of managing milk and was suitable for the small-scale production of Friulian typical cheeses, with many famers scattered around the small villages. The milk from multiple families was mixed together and the cheese was collectively made. The cheese that is produced, which is simply called latteria (dairy), is aged for up to one year. This is a raw milk cheese, produced without using any commercial starter cultures, and it comes from the small farms in the areas surrounding the dairy. In these farms, the most common breed is the local Pezzata Rossa and the cows’ diet does not include any corn silage.

Pan di sorc

The Pan di sorc, which means cornmeal in the local Friulian language, is the latest addition to the Slow Food Presidia, thanks to the help of the Ecomuseo delle Acque del Gemonese (Ecomuseum of the Gemona Waters) who once again proposed that this sweet and spiced bread should be eaten and sold as it is rich in flavours from beyond the Alps. The cereals which are grown on site, are known as cinquintini (cinquanta is fifty in

Italian). They develop and ripen in less than 40 days, which means that there could be a second harvest, even in this mild and rainy Gemona area.

Klozen pears of Alpe Adria

In the border area between Friuli Venezia Giulia, Carinthia and Slovenia, few pear species survive. Among these is the Pyrus nivalis the so-called “snow pear”, characterized by tiny flowers and fruits, despite the impressive trees. This pear, due to the woody pulp, can be eaten only after being left to overripen, a process of maturation after harvesting that determines a change in texture, colour and flavour. At the end of the ripening period, the pears are dried and ready to be used: sometimes transformed into flour for the preparation of typical desserts and bread, in other cases, they are soaked to be cooked in klotzennudeln or cjarsons, ravioli stuffed with pears and ricotta. Also, in the valleys, the production of juice, cider, distillate and liqueurs based on klozen pears is still alive, while in Austria, especially in the past, it was used as a herbal tea to substitute coffee at the end of meals.

Fava di Sauris, Pitina

Pestàt di Fagagna

Fagagna Pestàt

The Pestàt is a completely unique preserve/ dressing which was invented to preserve the fragrances and flavours of the autumnal herbs and vegetables in the pork lard. The Pestàt is produced by families during the pig slaughtering period (November to March). The lard which comes from local pigs that have been raised in a semi-wild environment with a natural diet, is minced and mixed with chopped vegetables and spices. It is then stuffed into natural casings and left to age in damp and cool cellars.

Pitina

Pitina was created by the poor country folk as a method of preserving meat during the autumn and winter months in the traditionally poor areas, such as the valleys north of Pordenone: the Tramontina and Cellina Valleys. In the past, the meat was minced in a pestadora (a hollowed-out wooden stump), together with salt, garlic and chopped black pepper. It was then formed into little balls, sprinkled with cornmeal and smoked on the shelf of a traditional Friulian fireplace. Nowadays, the meat is smoked using different aromatic woods, but beech is the one that is more prevalently used. Pitina is aged for at least 30 days and can then be eaten raw or cooked. The same goes for its variants (peta and petuccia), which differ because different herbs are added to the dough and, the peta is also bigger in size.

Radìc di mont

Radìc di Mont (Cicerbita alpina) is a particular type of chicory whose shoots are purple. It sprouts in the high mountains of the Carnic Alpine pastures in May, after the snow has melted. The chicory can only be picked for 15 days and each picker can only collect a maximum of one kilogramme per day. This very tender chicory can be eaten in salads, fried, or preserved in oil.

Rosa di Gorizia

This is a local variety of red chicory (Cichorium intybus) which is likened to a newly bloomed rose, and for this reason, it is called the Rosa di Gorizia (literally the Rose of Gorizia). The Rosa, which has been well-known since the time of the Habsburgs, has an intense flavour, crisp texture and slightly bitter taste. The colour is a deep shiny red and there are also varying pink or garnet red hues. The Rosa di Gorizia can be purchased from December to February.

Varhackara

In Carnia, a historical region in the Friulian Alps close to the Austrian border, every rural family traditionally reared a purcit, a pig, which was slaughtered between October and February. It was created to enhance the value of Lardo by preserving it in trimmings of typical cold cuts such as salami, smoked bacon, guanciale, pancetta, and ossocollo. Some of the pork would be eaten fresh, while the rest would be used to make a series of cured meats and other salted or smoked products. Varhackara is a type of pesto that evolved out of this tradition as a way to make the most of the lard, and incorporates offcuts of salami, smoked speck, guanciale, pancetta and ossocollo. The first documentary references to this product date back to the 13th century, and closely tie it to Timau, a tiny hamlet in the municipality of Paluzza and the last inhabited village before the Plöcken Pass, which leads to Austria. Timau’s historical identity is linked to the local language, which belongs to the family of South Bavarian dialects.

A QUICK RECAP

To learn more about the great agricultural food and winemaking heritage of Friuli Venezia Giulia, visit the ERSA Website (Friuli Venezia Giulia Agency for Rural Development)

www.ersa.fvg.it

I PRODOTTI DOP PGI PRODUCTS SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA

• Montasio cheese

• Prosciutto di San Daniele

• Tergeste extra virgin olive oil

• Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora

• Brovada

• Prosciutto di Sauris

• Pitina

There are over 150 traditional agricultural food products, such as: grappa, honey, Asìno cheese, Friulian white asparagus, Friulian salame, Goose Speck, San Daniele smoked trout, Prosciutto di Cormòns, etc.

• Resia Garlic or Strok

• Alto Friuli Heirloom

Apples

• Brovadâr of Moggio

Udinese

• Cavolo Capuccio of Collina

• Cavasso and e Val Cosa

Onion

• Çuç di mont

• Fagiolo of San Quirino

• Fava of Sauris

• Latteria turnaria Cheese

• Pan di Sorc

• Klozen pears of Alpe

Adria

• Fagagna Pestât

• Pitina

• Radic di Mont

• Rosa di Gorizia

• Varhackara

DULCIS IN FUNDO...

TIRAMISÙ THE ULTIMATE DESSERT!

Of all the local products, one delicious dessert deserves a special mention: originating from the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, it has become a real symbol of Italy and is known and loved worldwide. It is of course Tiramisù, and there were originally two versions, well documented in their respective towns of origin - Pieris, near Monfalcone, and Tolmezzo, in the Carnia mountains. Both are delicious!

PIERIS, Tìrime su Coppa Vetturino

The original version of this dessert, known as Coppa Vetturino™, is recorded as far back as 1935 in Pieris, near Gorizia. It was created by Mario Cosolo when he was enlisted in the Royal Navy’s mess brigade as a pastry chef on the Royal yacht ‘Savoia’. Requested to participate in a pastry-making contest for King Vittorio Emanuele III, the dessert he prepared was recognised as the best recipe. Discharged from the navy, he spent a year and a half as a chef on board Lloyd Triestino’s cruise ships, before, in 1939, returning to his family’s restaurant in Pieris - Al Vetturino - where he served the dessert as Coppa Vetturino™. There is a poster from 1950 depicting the creator of the dessert, then known as tìrime su by some of the Trattoria al Vetturino’s regulars from Trieste. The grandson of one of these regulars officially revealed this anecdote in a letter published in the Trieste newspaper Il Piccolo on 6 September 2013. The 1950 poster shows a photo

of the boxer Tiberio Mitri with his partner and “Miss Italia” Fulvia Franco beside the restaurant’s chef and manager Mario Cosolo, shown with his famous creation and, next to him, the saying: “il tirime su vale più di quel che costa” (tirime su is worth more than it costs). In October 1975, the Italian magazine La Buona Tavola defined Cosolo’s semifreddo: “originator of a whole family of tirame su desserts that can today be found in the trattorias of Friuli”. Another document shows the dessert was served at the restaurant for more than 25 years. In this version, the dessert is essentially made of a layer of chocolate mousse, a layer of alcohol-soaked sponge and a final layer of zabaglione mouse, all served in a dessert glass with a spoon.

TOLMEZZO, Tiramisù o Tìrimi Su (in the Friulian language)

The Carnia version, today a real symbol of Italy and known and loved worldwide, originated in Tolmezzo in the 1950s at the Albergo Ristorante Roma. For a long time, the restaurant had been serving a very popular dessert known as trancio al mascarpone (mascarpone slice). Evidence of the origin of the name tiramisu can be found in the book Il Tiramisù, Tolmezzo e la Carnia by Pier Giuseppe Avanzato, edited by Andrea Moro. It originated in the 1950s with some regulars who used to go to the restaurant after skiing, and who realised how effectively the dessert reinvigorated those returning from a fun but tiring day on the slopes. They called over the owner

Beppino Del Fabbro and told him how the dessert had revived them and was, one might say, a pick-me-up, or tiramisù (tìrimi su in the Friulian language). And so, in 1953/54, the classic version of the dessert, now known all over the world, found its name. The traditional Carnia version of tiramisu (or tìrimi su), is a dessert eaten with a spoon, served in slices and prepared cold, using sugar, whole egg, mascarpone, ladyfingers (or Savoy biscuits), unsweetened coffee and cocoa powder.

Regione Friuli Venezia Giulia

Forni Avoltri

AUSTRIA AUSTRIA

Ravascletto Zoncolan

Arta Terme

Sella Nevea Tarvisio

TREVISO VENETO

Forni di Sopra

Dolomiti Friulane

BELLUNO

Tolmezzo

Piancavallo

Palù di Livenza Sacile

Venzone San Daniele del Friuli Spilimbergo

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BY TRAIN

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Airport of Trieste www.triesteairport.it 40 km from Trieste and Udine 80 km from Pordenone 130 km from Venezia 120 km from Lubiana BY BIKE www.alpe-adria-radweg.com www.adriabike.eu

Edition May 2023

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