Nfocus August 2024 by FW Publishing

A U G U S T 2024

THE TRAVEL ISSUE Featuring Las Vegas, New Orleans, France and more

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CONTENTS August 2024 | Vol. XXXI, No. 8

features 22

Aw Shucks

The Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans works to conserve a culinary treasure

Blue Chip

Chyna Club offers Cantonese delights at the Fontainebleau Las Vegas

January at Southall Farm & Inn

Affirming the seed-to-fork connection

ON THE COVER

departments

Adult Swim

Adult-friendly luxury travel destinations

Bon Voyage

Visit Nashville’s French sister city

The Other Panama City Exploring the rich culture of Panama’s capital

parties

Violet Night

The Legacy Ball raises important funds for education

So Fourth and So On

In Whitland, neighbors collaborate to celebrate independence

Alissa Wetzel in Prabal Gurung from Gus Mayer, photographed by Eric England on location at the Thompson Hotel. Vintage luggage from the private collection of Jon Steinick. For more travel inspiration, turn to our features beginning on page 22.

In Our Words

Exploring new spaces and places

Behind the Scenes

With Sunil Narang of the Four Seasons Nashville

Step Inside

Cheekwood Gardening School

Nstyle

The latest from style gurus Bentley Caldwell and Carson Love

Taking Vows

Kacy Bringaze marries Michael Young

Nretrospect

American Airlines at The Hermitage Hotel

55 22

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

IN OUR WORDS

Editorial

founding editor

Herbert Fox Jr. editor-in-chief

Janet Kurtz

contributing editors

Lindsey Lanquist, Jack Silverman social correspondent

Gloria Houghland contributors

Beth Alexander, Emily Bache, Jeanette Barker, Abigail Breslin, Bentley Caldwell, Whitney Clay, Melissa Corbin, Carrington Fox, Margaret Littman, Carson Love, Hamilton Matthew Masters, Sandra Nelson, Nancy Vienneau

Art

art director

Christie Passarello senior photographer

Eric England

staff photographer

Angelina Castillo

contributing photographers

Michael Scott Evans, Tausha Dickinson, Lorenzo Huerta, Hamilton Matthew Masters graphic designers

Sandi Harrison, Mary Louise Meadors, Tracey Starck

The Road Less Traveled Exploring new spaces and places

THROUGHOUT HISTORY, man has always been fascinated by exploration. It could be the drive of discovery — or simply a thirst for knowledge of different customs and cultures. Either way, travel takes us outside a confined, familiar environment and offers a new worldview. Sometimes, a journey halfway around the world changes our perception. Other times, a short jaunt to a nearby city yields new discoveries at every turn. We are transfixed by storytellers, like Anthony Bourdain, Jimmy Buffett and more, who entice us with the adventure of travel — and its transformative potential. In this — our newly reimagined travel issue — we explore exciting destinations and the people who help us feel at home in new spaces. Chris Chamberlain takes us inside the newly opened Chyna Club in the dazzling Fontainebleau Las Vegas. Nancy Vienneau travels down the road to Southall Farm & Inn to talk to chefs Andrew Klamar and Nate Leonard about their fine-dining spot January. Melissa Corbin recommends some adult-friendly destinations for a magical getaway without the kids. And — in an article that reads like a letter from a friend — Kami Rice writes about her new home in Nashville’s sister city Caen, France. We also visit the Four Seasons New Orleans to learn about an oyster farming program that raises awareness about conservation efforts in the Gulf. We take you inside Cheekwood Gardening School’s new classes. We go behind the scenes with Sunil Narang, general manager of Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences Nashville. And, as always, we take you inside summer events, like the third annual Legacy Ball and the Whitland Avenue Fourth of July party. On a sad note, this issue’s Taking Vows will be our dear friend Sandra Nelson’s last. Sandra — or Miss Sandy, as she is known around our offices — has written our Taking Vows column for over 20 years. Her loving attention to detail has brought love stories to life for over two decades. While Taking Vows will live on, Sandra’s voice will be greatly missed — and we wish her all the best. As the late Anthony Bourdain beautifully said: “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts — it even breaks your heart. But that’s OK. The journey changes you. It should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Marketing

events and marketing director

Robin Fomusa

brand partnerships & event manager

Alissa Wetzel

events coordinator

Maddy Fraiche

Advertising publisher

Olivia Moye Britton

advertising solutions consultants

Teresa Birdsong, Maddy Fraiche, Michael Jezewski, Carla Mathis, Allie Muirhead, Heather Cantrell Mullins, Niki Tyree, Alissa Wetzel associate account executive

Kailey Idziak, Rena Ivanov sales operations manager

Chelon Hasty

advertising solutions associates

Audry Houle, Jack Stejskal

Circulation

circulation manager

Gary Minnis

Business president

Mike Smith chief financial officer

Todd Patton IT director

John Schaeffer

Owner BY JANET KURTZ Janet moved to Nashville 26 years ago. She is an avid reader, traveler and collector of fountain pens, and she lives in downtown Nashville with her husband, Ron, and their dog, Julep. Email her at jkurtz@nfocusmagazine.com or follow her on Instagram @musiccitytraveler.

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FW Publishing, LLC

Bill Freeman

Nfocus is published monthly by FW Publishing, LLC. Advertising deadline for the next issue is Friday, August 9, 2024. A limited number of free copies, one per reader, are available at select retail establishments, listed on the website: nfocusmagazine.com. First-class subscriptions are available for $100 per year. Send your name and address along with a check or credit card number and expiration date to: GARY MINNIS, FW PUBLISHING, 615 MAIN ST., Suite 102, Nashville, TN 37206 or call Gary at 615-844-9307. For advertising information, call OLIVIA MOYE BRITTON at 615844-9261. Copyright ©2024 FW Publishing, LLC.

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BEHIND THE SCENES

Warm Welcome

Behind the scenes with Sunil Narang of the Four Seasons Nashville GROWING UP IN AMRITSAR, India, Sunil Narang knew he wanted to chart a different course for himself. “Back then, you had to say you wanted to be a doctor, an engineer or a pilot,” he says. Sunil’s mother recognized her son’s passion for sweets and playfully encouraged him to become a pastry chef or work in a restaurant. While this was just an inside joke, Sunil believes his mother manifested his THE BASICS career in the hospitality industry. Sunil’s uncle operated a social club in India, and on weekends, Sunil would Name: Sunil Narang go to the club to learn how the busiHometown: Amritsar, India ness was run. From those early days, ZIP code: 37207 Sunil became focused on the hospitality Years in Nashville: 1 industry. “For me, it was magic in its own way,” he says. “It felt glamorous on the Number of Four Seasons properties you’ve worked at: 11 outside, but it was always entertaining and rewarding to see how effortlessly the staff worked together behind the scenes for those guests.” Sunil attended the prestigious Les Roches International School of Hotel Management in Crans-Montana, Switzerland. Immediately after graduation, he began working in hotels. Sunil’s extensive history with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts began, as many careers in hospitality do, on the front lines as a front desk receptionist. From there, he worked his way up and through various departments within the Rooms division. After more than two decades working all over the world for Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, Sunil has come to Music City to be the general manager of Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences Nashville. ments, like the upcoming Titans stadium, I think What is the most important advice you have reNashville will continue to attract many more ceived? I’ve been fortunate to have so many meninternational names and brands to the city. The tors and coaches who have offered me great advice future is bright, and I’m so thrilled to be here. throughout my life and my career. The belief I most firmly hold is that you should be the change you What about what you do brings you joy? Perwant to see in the world around you. It all starts from sonally, what brings me joy is connecting with you. A smile can light up the room. It doesn’t matter my team in a deep and meaningful way. We what you’re going through — if you want to change work together so that our guests are well taken the dynamics of a room, what you need is a smile. care of and have the best possible experience in Nashville. I also love connecting with our Where do you see the hospitality industry in Nashguests and looking for opportunities to improve ville in 10 years? It’s a very exciting time to be in the their stay and experience. hospitality industry in Nashville. There are so many tourists, conventions and groups coming to the city, What legacy do you hope to leave the Nashmajor companies that are making Nashville their ville community? I think my goal is to always home, and such a large number of people moving to be fondly remembered. I want to be rememthe city from all over the country and the world. The bered as someone who put smiles on people’s future is bright for this city and for hospitality. With faces — whether that’s our guests or staff — the continued growth of the city and new developand as someone who always did the right thing.

Other than Mimo, what are some of your favorite dining spots in Nashville? That is an impossible question to answer! The city’s culinary scene is exploding, and there are so many great options. I love trying new things. Downtown, I think Harriet’s Rooftop at the 1 Hotel Nashville is great, and I love taking out-of-town guests to The Twelve Thirty Club for a fun night out. At Mimo, we partnered earlier this year on two chef collab dinners with Lyra, a phenomenal Middle Eastern restaurant in East Nashville that I love. I recently tried S.S. GAI at The Wash for the first time and absolutely loved it. And of course, I have to mention our rooftop restaurant, Rivière, which is a wonderful destination for great food, drinks and views that is open to anyone. BY JANET KURTZ PHOTOGRAPH BY ANGELINA CASTILLO

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

STEP OUTSIDE

Class Is in Session

Cheekwood Gardening School gets underway with myriad classes IN A BRIGHTLY LIT classroom with painted brick walls, framed botanical prints and nearly two dozen school desks, a group of students gathered for class on a recent Saturday morning. But, unlike in typical academic settings, the Cheekwood Gardening School instructor is more likely to use a trowel than a pen to make a point. The school, which launched this spring, is another way for Cheekwood Estate & Gardens to be an educational resource for area residents, says Nathalie Lavine, vice president of education and outreach. While Cheekwood has long held workshops and hosted lectures, these Saturday classes offer a couple information-packed hours — both in the classroom and out in the gardens — focused on specific subjects, ranging from “Bonsai for Beginners” to “Diagnosing Tomato Disorders.” Other classes coming up this month include “Designing and Cultivating an Herb Garden,” “The Science Behind Composting,” “Harvesting and Preserving Summer Vegetables” and “All About Moss.” Before starting the program, Cheekwood staff spoke to members, landscape architects and master gardeners to come up with an array of classes that felt both varied and seasonally appropriate. The goal is to appeal to a wide range of interests and demographics.

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“We know not everybody has a lavish home garden,” says Nathalie. “So what can we do for those in apartments? What does houseplant care look like? What does balcony gardening look like? We really want to be accessible to the full Nashville community.” Debbie Bright, a Franklin resident who has taken several Cheekwood classes, is retired after many years working in a call center. “It was a desk job, so for relaxation, I’d go home and work on my plants,” says Debbie. “I live in a condo [now], but I’ve always had a yard and I just like learning about it. It’s like continuing education for me. Everybody they’ve had [at Cheekwood] is very knowledgeable … They give you good tips and things like that.” She’s taken one class about “Water Conscious Gardening” — and another about container arrangements, which participants were able to take home. “It’s been really pretty on my patio,” says Debbie. She’s met fellow students who live in apartments or who just purchased their first homes. “It’s knowledge you can take anywhere,” she says. BY WHITNEY CLAY PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CHEEKWOOD ESTATE & GARDENS

CONTINUING EDUCATION Classes will continue into the fall with a tentative list of topics including “Practices in Fall Pruning,” “Shrubs for the Fall Landscape” and “Gardening with Bulbs.” The cost for a class is $40 for nonmembers and $32 for members. Classes are small, with a 20-person limit. “We really did that very consciously because we want it to feel like a class,” says Nathalie. “It’s not a lecture. It’s not this giant room where you don’t have any ability to talk or ask questions.”

STEP INSIDE

DIG IN While classes begin in the Courtyard Classroom, the instructor often takes students to an area that exemplifies the topic at hand. For example, in the class on lavish lawns, Peter Grimaldi, vice president of gardens and facilities, took students outside. “Talking about grass is a lot easier if you’re out with the grass,” Nathalie notes. Similarly, Cheekwood’s Herb Study Garden and Japanese Garden could provide inspiration to students taking herb garden and bonsai classes.

SPREAD THE WORD One major goal is to reach area residents who may not be familiar with everything Cheekwood has to offer. Julianne Forster, of Smyrna, had never been to Cheekwood before enrolling in the “Water Conscious Gardening” class. She says she wanted to learn the basics so eventually — when she has her own house and a family — she can have a garden and grow flowers, vegetables and herbs. “I don’t want to start a garden by myself and not know what’s happening,” she says.

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

NSTYLE

HIS STYLE

Trend it like Beckham

GENTS! WE MADE IT. Some of you may already know this, but I’m a massive soccer fan. I cheer on our Boys in Gold, Nashville SC. I have the personalized jerseys — the whole nine! When I was growing up, there were few athletes bigger than David Beckham. If you haven’t watched his documentary on Netflix, it’s brilliant. One thing that stood out to me — more than his free kicks, his marriage to Posh Spice and his meticulously curated closet (goals) — was his style evolution. From his ’90s days in athletic-chic clothing to his current status as a sartorial badass, David Beckham is a style icon. And you can borrow some tips from Becks to up your style game.

Be bold, and own it

Look, not all of Beckham’s fashion choices are great. The head scarves, tracksuits and big baggy jeans? The all-purple wedding reception outfits and black leather ensembles that would make Neo and Morpheus swoon? They were bad. But no matter what, our boy owned it. The lesson is simple: If you’re making a bold fashion choice — whether it be a bold color, pattern or piece — own it.

Keep it simple

HER STYLE

Simple swap, big impact

HAVE YOU EVER heard the quote: “Something that can be done at any time is often done at no time”? It really resonates with me. There’s one pesky section of my to-do list that never goes away — and somehow gets pushed farther and farther down the page. It’s filled with non-urgent tasks that I know I should do, but that can ultimately wait until another time. Organizing and merchandising my closet falls into this category. I’ve shared so many closet audit tips. But sometimes, inertia gets the best of me, and I fail to follow my own advice. In the spirit of making hard things easier, I want to share one small organizational hack I’ve seen make a big impact in my clients’ closets: Replace all your existing hangers with matching, thin ones. Swapping everything over to matching hangers might sound tedious, but it’s one of the simplest things you can do to create more space in your closet. Hanging everything in a uniform fashion immedi-

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ately maximizes space. It also cuts down on wrinkles and helps your clothes maintain their shape. The best part: You can complete the task today and mark it off your to-do list for good. A bonus of making this switch? It requires you to physically touch every item in your closet. If you don’t love something enough to put it on a new hanger, it’s likely time to let it go. A passive closet edit? Music to my ears! I’m a fan of thin felt hangers, but go with your own personal preference. You can often find thin hangers on sale at places like HomeGoods, but they’re widely available at Amazon and other retailers too. Pro tip: Always buy more hangers than you think you need. That way, when you buy something new or bring home the dry cleaning, you have a matching hanger to put everything on. BY CARSON LOVE Carson Love is a wardrobe and personal stylist based in Nashville. Her main goal is to help clients present as and feel like their best selves, so they are ready for whatever life brings them. Find her online: CarsonLove.com or follow her on Instagram @carsonmlove.

Even amid the terrible fashion choices, David Beckham has stuck to one universal style principle: He always keeps it simple. Whether he’s sporting one of those regrettable monochromatic looks or gardening in jeans and a T-shirt, you can never accuse him of overdoing it. Like our boy, don’t be afraid to keep it simple — and invest in your essentials. If you like wearing jeans and a T-shirt, treat yourself to a nicer pair of jeans and a better T-shirt.

Evolve

The beauty of David Beckham’s style is that as he’s evolved, his style has evolved. He slowly but surely got out of the loose baggy clothes and into more tailored clothing. These days, it’s extremely rare to see him in anything slouchy or ill-fitting — even at sporting events. He now dresses at a level befitting his age and station in life. That’s something we men should all strive toward. While you may not have his wealth, or his good looks, or his hair, or his tattoos, or his wife, or regular hangouts with Lionel Messi, you can at least have his style tips. Godspeed, gents. Happy dressing! BY BENTLEY CALDWELL Bentley Caldwell is a Nashville-based men’s personal stylist who helps guys up their style and confidence and take the guesswork out of dressing themselves. Have a fashion or styling question? Visit his website: BentleyCaldwellStyling.com or follow him on Instagram @bentleycaldwell.

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F E AT U R E

AW SHUCKS

The Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans works to conserve a culinary treasure DEEP IN THE COASTAL WATERS and estuaries of Louisiana lives one of New Orleans’ trademark culinary delights — oysters. Oysters have long been a mainstay of the working-class dining table and have recently ascended to the white-clothed tables of the city’s top eateries. But lately, oystermen and fishermen keep uttering the phrase — “you’re losing it as you’re looking at it” — as they battle climate change and habitat erosion to secure their catches. As waters rise due to global warming, politicians have worked to slow the loss of coastal wetlands using river divergence. All the changes also impact the broad diversity of aquatic life that call Louisiana’s waters home. In an effort to raise awareness and sustain a precious commodity, the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans has created a unique way for guests to learn about oyster farming through its Oysters Take Flight program.

A U G U S T 2 024 | nfocusmagazine.com

F E AT U R E

In the fathoms below IN NEW ORLEANS, oysters are as much a part of the cultural tapestry as jazz, beads and beignets. It was here in the 1840s that many Croatian-Slavonian immigrants settled. In the new world, men found work as fishermen — more specifically, oystermen — to earn enough money to bring their families over from Croatia. Oysters became a staple in the diet of the new Americans who fished and consumed the large, meaty bivalves found in the Louisiana waters. Cold-blooded Eastern oysters, or Crassostrea virginica, live in the warm waters of Louisiana’s estuaries, bays and bayous. As seed oysters, the bivalves sink to the bottom of the water, where they affix to hard surfaces, like rocks or other oysters, and stay for the rest of their lives. In this process, oysters create a cluster called a reef. Oyster reefs provide a safe habitat for other marine life, including mussels, barnacles and sea anemones, and food for fish, like anchovies, blue crabs and herring. For over a century and a half, oysters have been a staple in cities and towns across the Gulf Coast. However, more and more life in supporting waterways is being threatened by climate change. Oysters need conditions that are just right for their survival. If the water isn’t salty enough, the oysters can’t thrive and populations shrink. If the water is too salty, the oysters become more vulnerable to certain bacteria. The erosion of Louisiana’s wetlands makes the water saltier, while river divergence adds too much freshwater to the mix. And as water temperatures rise, so do disease and mortality rates for aquatic life — including indicator species, like oysters.

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

F E AT U R E

Four Sesons Hotel New Orlens IN THE BUSTLING downtown area of Canal Street looms the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans. The imposing icon sits on the banks of the mighty Mississippi River — standing sentinel for decades, as ships and barges have meandered by. Once the International Trade Mart — New Orleans’ equivalent of the World Trade Center — the building was eyed for demolition. A small-but-mighty group of residents petitioned to save the culturally and historically significant building. In 2014, the building earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Places list. Not long after, Four Seasons purchased the building and converted it into a hotel and luxury residences, which opened in 2021. With an emphasis on restoring and preserving the historic elements of the property, the hotel offers a nod to mid-century modern elegance and style. One of the show-stopping features is the stunning crystal chandelier — hand-crafted in the Czech Republic — that floats above the oval lobby bar. The expansive guest rooms — many offering views of the mighty Mississippi — are richly furnished with a soothing neutral palette, making guests feel immediately at home in their surroundings. The spa experience is tranquil and serene, with a whole host of treatments available to help guests relax and unwind. Not-to-be-missed experiences include the hotel’s culinary hotspots, Miss River and Chemin à la Mer. Miss River is chef Alon Shaya’s “love letter to Louisiana,” showcasing local specialties and Cajun flavors. The restaurant has an almost Parisian-cafe feel, with dishes that are approachable, comforting and delivered to the table by a warm and inviting team. The menu offers outstanding signature dishes like clay pot dirty rice, salt-crusted Gulf red snapper, duck and andouille gumbo, and a massive fried bone-in pork chop — making repeat visits (or having friends who share) a must. The crown jewel of the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans dining is Donald Link’s Chemin à la Mer. Sweeping views of the Mississippi play a supporting role to the star of the show — the cuisine. An award-winning chef, Donald has developed some of the top restaurants in New Orleans — like Herbsaint and Peche, to name a few. His Chemin à la Mer features a healthy selection of fresh oysters, as well as dishes like filet mignon with dauphinoise potatoes, blistered cherry tomatoes and béarnaise sauce, or blackened Gulf snapper with sweet corn and summer bean succotash.

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Chandelier Bar

Oyster farms

Oysters Tke Fliht OYSTER FARMING IS thought to date back to the ancient Romans. The practice, while prevalent on the East Coast, is relatively new to Louisiana. To raise oysters, farmers fill floating baskets with seed oysters that grow until they’re ideal for market. The floating cages not only provide protection from predators, they’re also portable — easily moved out of the path of oncoming hurricanes. One of the core tenets of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts is a commitment to conservation. Each property identifies green initiatives that support the local economy and furthers education through engaging programs for guests. In partnership with Little Moon Oysters, the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans created the Oysters Take Flight program to help guests learn about oyster farming — all while enjoying Champagne and delicious cuisine. “Our latest experience, Oysters Take Flight, offers an unparalleled educational adventure that combines our rich culinary heritage with our commitment to coastal sustainability,” says Mali Carow, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans. The program begins when Four Seasons guests board a chartered seaplane that flies over Louisiana’s lush and mystical coastal marshland as the pilot expertly describes the geography below. When the seaplane softly touches down, a boat arrives with Four Seasons team members, Chemin à la Mer chef Justin Koslowsky and Little Moon Oysters founder Ryan Anderson — plus a variety of culinary treats and crisp Champagne to enjoy. As guests arrive at the oyster cages, Ryan quietly slips into the water and begins an engaging explanation of his process — beginning with buying the baby oysters and rotating them though the cages as they grow. He then harvests a small number of oysters for guests to taste. The flavor is extraordinary — and a welcome reminder that Louisiana produces many of the oysters consumed in the United States. After an enjoyable afternoon, and a quick ride on the sea plane back to shore, guests enjoy a tasting in the Four Seasons’ ode to classic Gulf Coast dining, Chemin à la Mer — the perfect way to end a one-of-a-kind adventure. BY JANET KURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND

Sea plane

Ryan Anderson of Little Moon Oysters

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

3408 LEALAND LN $1,998,900

This five-bedroom residence boasts captivating designer finishes throughout. Manicured outdoor green space featuring multiple entertainment areas. The first-floor master suite offers a private sanctuary with two closets and an architectural digest bathroom. Fall in love with the open inviting floor plan this home offers. Walk to 12th South or a 5 min car ride to Green Hills.

IVY VICK 2206 21st Avenue South | Nashville, TN 615.485.0963 | Nashvilledigs.com | @ivy_vick 26

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F E AT U R E

BLUE CHIP

Chyna Club offers Cantonese delights at the Fontainebleau Las Vegas FIRST ANNOUNCED IN 2005, the Fontainebleau Las Vegas opened with a splash in late 2023, welcoming VIPs to an invitation-only surprise performance by Justin Timberlake. After years of fits and starts, the property changed hands among different development groups several times, but it has certainly been worth the wait. The 67-story hotel is the tallest occupiable building in Nevada, boasting more than 3,000 rooms and offering sweeping views of the Las Vegas Strip, the technological marvel of the Sphere and the mountains in the distance. A sister property to the venerable Fontainebleau Miami Beach, the Vegas version maintains a separate identity in design and vibe. Unencumbered by the forced thematic details that sometimes detract from adult experiences at other resorts, the Fontainebleau is free to focus on the elements that make for a great guest experience. (And it’s certainly nice to visit a casino that still has that “new car” smell!)

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

F E AT U R E

Little touches are referential and reverential to the sister property in Florida. There are bow ties worked into design elements around the property — a nod to the architect of the original Fontainebleau, Morris Lapidus, and his signature neckwear. Towering floral displays and an engaging art program make the property worth a visit, whether or not you’re staying, gambling or eating there. Conveniently located on the north tip of the Strip, it’s an easy walk to the heart of the action, and ride-sharing services and nearby public transportation (like the Monorail or “Deuce” bus) offer short, inexpensive trips to Old Vegas downtown or the airport. While the Fontainebleau is a fine place to gamble — with a 150,000-square-foot casino area filled with more than a thousand slot machines, plus table games and a modern sports betting area — management pays at least as much attention to curating the resort experience. The six-acre pool deck offers seven different pool options, and the luxurious Lapis Spa & Wellness center features a menu of globally inspired pampering services. Another way the Fontainebleau seeks to stand out is through an exemplary culinary program. There are more than 30 dining options within the resort, ranging from elevated food court spots in the Promenade above the lobby to fine dining kitchens helmed by award-winning chefs and restaurateurs from around the world.

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F E AT U R E

Among Fontainebleau’s newest and buzziest restaurants is Chyna Club, a Cantonese concept from the brilliant creative mind of Hakkasan and Wagamama founder Alan Yau. Steeped in the cuisine of Yau’s Hong Kong birthplace, Chyna Club is designed to look like a supper club featuring an intriguing mash-up of Asian and art deco design elements. Four distinct dining areas offer choices of experiences — seating at opulent banquettes, a cozy tea room decorated in sleek copper and porcelain, a clubby library, or a conservatory where ceiling panels display peaceful clouds and stars sweeping across the sky above the velvet and leather seating. An energetic soundtrack plays at an appropriate volume in the background to remind diners that they are in Sin City, not the Forbidden City. As at many Cantonese restaurants, Chyna Club’s signature entrée is Peking duck, and the dish has quickly become so popular that preordering is recommended. If you fail to plan ahead, the crispy duck salad is a convenient alternative to sample the succulent duck meat and shatteringly crisp skin as part of a salad served with herbaceous microgreens and an umami-rich soya sesame mirin dressing. Diving deeper into the menu, it’s apparent that Yau and Michelin-starred executive chef Richard Chen are not afraid to explore outside of more traditional cuisine with selections of regional Chinese specialties presented with modernist twists.

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Jasmine tea smoked ribs feature Iberico pork that falls off the bone with just a gentle tug and showcases a delicate wisp of jasmine smoke and a bite of Tabasco. A scallop shumai appetizer is served with an assortment of dipping sauces and a healthy dollop of caviar. Club carbonara is another Alan Yau classic from his Hakkasan restaurant group, and it’s beloved with good reason. House-made Inaniwa udon noodles are topped with sea urchin, a perfectly runny 65-degree organic poached egg, and “winddried” pork cheek to create a delightful luxurious take on the Neapolitan classic. While it’s difficult to save room for dessert after sampling your way through the dim sum menu, don’t miss out on exotic offerings like mango pudding, a hot red bean soup with gingersesame mochi balls, and an almond tofu revelation with the delicate consistency of a custardy flan. For a meal featuring impeccable service, innovative explorations of Cantonese cuisine served in an atmosphere of timeless elegance, and what many diners are calling the best Peking duck in Las Vegas, make plans to visit the Fontainebleau for an unforgettable dinner at Chyna Club. BY CHRIS CHAMBERLAIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL MILNE

Janet Jones & Diane Ralph

For

Sal e

Where Experience Meets Excellence

Sol

827 Tyne Blvd, Nashville, TN 37220 - $5,895,000

1713 Kenesaw Dr, Nashville, TN 37215 - $1,250,000

Sol

1119 Park Ridge Dr, Nashville, TN 37215 - $3,625,000

REPRESENTED BUYER

1218 Boxthorn Dr, Brentwood, TN 37027 - $1,143,000

Janet Jones

615-300-5045 (m) | 615-250-7880 (o)

513 Armistead Pl, Nashville, TN 37212 - $575,000

Diane Ralph

615-545-3052 (m) | 615-250-7880 (o)

©2024 Corcoran Group LLC. All rights reserved. Corcoran® and the Corcoran Logo are registered service marks owned by Corcoran Group LLC. CorcoranGroup LLC fully nfocusmagazine.com A U G License U S T 2024 supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated. TN| Broker #257893

F E AT U R E

JANUARY AT SOUTHALL FARM & INN Affirming the seed-to-fork connection

A VISIT TO SOUTHALL FARM & INN is full of astonishing moments. It begins with you sighting a huge hydroponic greenhouse as you near the entrance off Carters Creek Pike. Excitement mounts as you turn onto the property — 325 acres, the vast percentage of which is left to nature. Paths bend around a large pond and lead to a ridge of nestled treehouse cottages, winding past swaths of native wildflowers, an apple orchard and apiaries with brightly painted hives, all against a backdrop of lush green hills. These moments continue as you arrive at the inn’s main entry. First, there is a bespoke reception and lounge with soaring peaked ceilings, hefty wood beams and walls of glass — modern and rustic at once. To the right is Sojourner, a casual all-day cafe and bar. But as executive chef Andrew Klamar notes, the greatest wows are reserved for January, Southall’s signature fine dining restaurant.

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“With any dining experience, there’s anticipation combined with elements of the unexpected,” Andrew says. “You walk past Sojourner and down a hall into this jewel box that you didn’t know was there. That’s where you go, ‘Ahh!’” Indeed the room is a stunner, designed in harmony with the natural surroundings — open yet intimate, in warm wood and cream tones. Windows on all sides not only provide views of the farm and countryside, they also bring nature into the space, affirming the seed-to-fork connection. January is Southall’s tour de force. Guided by Andrew and chef Nate Leonard, the fare is ingredient-driven, utilizing greens, fruits, vegetables, herbs, eggs and honey sourced from the farm itself. The chefs work closely with Southall’s farmers in planning the crops for the year. As crops mature, the chefs meet weekly with the farmers to learn what and how much will be available.

F E AT U R E

“We put in our requests for certain tomatoes, for instance. We love black cherry and sungolds, Brandywines and Green Zebras,” says Andrew. “We like to have Amish paste [tomatoes] for sauces. And we ask that they grow lots of Habanada peppers. We recognize, of course, that there are no guarantees in farming, so we have learned to be adaptive.” Further, the chefs work with other local and regional producers, such as Bear Creek Farm, Simpson’s Meats and Joyce Farms for pork, beef and duck respectively. They take great pains to source responsibly caught fish and seafood. “Sustainability is a word that can be misused,” says Andrew. “We seek out operations that mirror our ethos.” The food is precious, but the execution is not. “Our philosophy is to work with the produce in ways to highlight them,” says Nate. “Salt, acid, fat can lift everything. Simplify! While we use some modern techniques, like fluid gels or the immersion circulator, our focus is this: Flavor first.” In achieving that, the chefs have a state-of-the-art kitchen, visible from January’s dining room. Here, the team works the flattop, sauté station, garde manger and the star — a custom-built wood-burning oven and grill. Fronting the kitchen is a counter fitted with a large slab of marble, where the chefs garnish plates and bowls using the array of herbs, berries and flowers grown in Southall’s gardens.

F E AT U R E

Because January was conceived as the pinnacle of dining at Southall, it was the last of the concepts on the property to open. Great care was taken to ensure all the components — butchery, charcuterie, pastry and breads, and even the preservation kitchen, The Jammery — were operating smoothly. “We took our time with January, in deciding what it would be,” says Andrew. “Obviously, it is fine dining. We wanted it to be approachable, yet with some complexity. We wanted it to represent us, our diverse backgrounds, what we are stoked to eat.” Their green curry short rib, for example, was inspired by Andrew’s meals at King Market, which, he says, has incredible food. “So no boundaries, really — excepting, of course, what nature dictates,” he says. The menu rotates, and you can choose something from each of its three sections: starters, first courses and mains. But even with the constant changes, there are some dishes that have become so beloved they remain constants. The wood-grilled oysters fall into that category — a delicate smoky-sweetness imparted into each mollusk, finished with a creamy chowder-like sauce and a mini oyster cracker. The mammoth-yetlight Parker House rolls with Southall honey butter are always in demand, and for good reason. Steaks, dryaged in house for 45 to 70 days and offered in different cuts by the ounce, are succulent on their own. But lavish touches, like popovers and sauce au poivre, elevate them to extraordinary. There are seasonal variations on a dish. In early spring, the lamb rib may be roasted in tamarind and coffee. In mid-summer, it might be accented with chili and peach. Coppa, a pork collar steak that is brined, cooked sous-vide and finished on the grill, takes on savory-sweet root vegetable notes in winter, contrasted by collards, dates and fiery chorizo in warmer months. The gorgeous selection of lettuces grown on site in the hydroponic greenhouse form the foundation of memorable salads, their tastes enhanced in straightforward vinaigrettes and sparks of fruit, be it citrus, blackberries or pickled strawberries from the prior year. “We seek ways to extend the seasons,” Andrew notes. “Chef Richard Jones of The Jammery is always at work, preserving, fermenting, canning and pickling so that we have access to the bounty year-round.” Regardless of the time of year, each meal begins with a complimentary amuse-bouche, a gift that changes on a weekly basis. “The idea is that this is something playful, delicious and fleeting,” Andrew says. “One week it was an homage to the Reuben — a rye pancake topped with beef belly bacon and kraut. Another was inspired by our love of Crab Rangoon, only made with crawfish tail and our smoked honey.” Expect luscious, creative confections from the hands of pastry chef Emma Livingston, whose standouts include a peach miso tart and a chocolate meringue with rum and dark cherries. She also crafts lovely bonbons as parting gifts. While the Southall complex has been designed as a luxury stay, dining on-site was not set up solely for guests checked into the inn or one of the cottages. Locals are invited to partake. The experience of this serene setting, a mere 40-minute drive from downtown Nashville, is a welcome step out of time and place. It provides a deeper appreciation for the gifts of the farm, and how a team of talented chefs manipulate them, seed-to-fork. BY NANCY VIENNEAU PHOTOGRAPHS BY VICTORIA QUIRK

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FOLLOW YOUR DREAM, HOME.

*Represented Buyer

For Sale | $3,950,000 126 Brookfield Ave Nashville, TN 37205 Grace Clayton Group +1 615-305-1426

Sold* | $2,595,000 6117 Hickory Valley Rd Nashville, TN 37205 Grace Clayton Group +1 615-305-1426

For Sale | $1,750,000 911 Westview Ave Nashville, TN 37205 Grace Clayton Group +1 615-305-1426

For Sale | $1,449,000 1212 Laurel St, #1004 Nashville, TN 37203 Chip Wilkison +1 615-504-9935

For Sale | $989,000 3601 Woodmont Ln Nashville, TN 37215 Chip Wilkison +1 615-504-9935

For Sale | $925,000 14008 Nebraska Ave Nashville, TN 37209 John Clayton +1 615-294-6065

For Sale | $899,000 6319 Chickering Woods Dr Nashville, TN 37215 Sheila Reuther +1 615-485-0669

For Sale | $835,000 2725 W. Linden Ave Nashville, TN 37212 John Clayton +1 615-294-6065

Pending | $824,000 4138 Grays Point Rd Joelton, TN 37080 Sheila Reuther +1 615-485-0669

For Sale | $769,000 342 Forrest Valley Dr Nashville, TN 37209 Sheila Reuther +1 615-485-0669

For Sale | $724,900 3803 Dartmouth Ave Nashville, TN 37215 Chip Wilkison +1 615-504-9935

Sold | $499,000 4120 Ridgefield Dr, #212 Nashville, TN 37205 Chip Wilkison +1 615-504-9935

Sold | $415,000 105 Leake Ave, #96 Nashville, TN 37205 Murray Clayton +1 615-812-1831

For Sale | $295,000 105 Leake Ave, #63 Nashville, TN 37205 Murray Clayton +1 615-812-1831

Sold | $2,050,000 2207 Old Hickory Blvd Nashville, TN 37215 Neal Clayton & John Clayton +1 615-300-8585

Engel & Völkers Nashville | 3912 12 Hillsboro Cr, Nashville, TN | +1 615-297-8543 | nashville.evrealestate.com nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

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F E AT U R E

ADULT SWIM Adult-friendly luxury travel destinations

WHILE FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL offers abundant opportunities for memory making, sometimes it’s nice to spare a moment for a just-the-two-of-us escape. From intimate waterside villas in the Maldives to shopping Jordan’s famous Rainbow Street, the world is waiting to offer a romantic getaway for two. BY MELISSA CORBIN PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CML/FRANCESCANA, EMILIA ROMAGNA TOURIST BOARD, THE FOUR SEASONS NEVIS, SUN SIYAM IRU FUSHI, SUN SIYAM IRU VELI AND VISIT JORDAN

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

F E AT U R E

THE MALDIVES A nation of 1,192 islands spanning the equator, The Maldives is a worthy destination for anyone willing to make the trek. The island chain is known for its natural atolls — circular islands surrounding canals and lagoons — banked by white sandy beaches, azure ocean waters and colorful coral reefs. With five resorts throughout the Maldives, the Maldivian-owned group Sun Siyam Resorts offers luxurious island accommodations. Two of the resorts stand out for their adult-friendly experiences. The all-inclusive Iru Veli resort boasts 125 suites along the beach and on the water, and each villa comes with a private pool. Make sure to book the Cast Away experience, which will take you to a secluded sandbank to enjoy lunch, games and snorkeling without another soul in sight. Adventurers may prefer the island playground Iru Fushi, which offers 221 villas and suites accessible only by a 45-minute private seaplane ride. The resort is a foodie’s paradise, with 14 dining options ranging from an overwater French restaurant to a spot specializing in local seafood. A day at The Spa by Thalgo is a must, with over 140 treatment offerings to choose from. Getting there from Nashville is quite the trek, but well worth it. Travel to Kochi (or Cochin), India. Then take the 1.5-hour connecting flight to the Maldivian capital, Malé.

NEVIS The sister island to Saint Kitts, Nevis is an unspoiled Caribbean paradise within the West Indies, where the north Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea meet. The birthplace of American founding father Alexander Hamilton, Nevis is known for its sparsely populated shores and crystal clear waters — both set against the majestic Nevis Peak, a volcano in the island’s center. The best way to explore the 36-square-mile island is with Nevis Sun Tours, a luxury tour management company that works with a select few resorts. The group specializes in immersive and authentic tours, ranging from rum tastings to cooking classes to sunset cruises. And all of its experiences are turnkey, so you can let the group streamline transportation and logistics while you enjoy everything the island has to offer. By design, Nevis Sun Tours works with just a few luxury properties — including the Four Season Resort Nevis, situated on idyllic Pinney’s Beach. Offering luxury suites, fine-dining options, complimentary water sports, several pools, and a golf course home to a colony of green vervet monkeys, the five-star resort makes a perfect getaway. Consider it your home base on your retreat. To get there, fly from Nashville to Miami. Then, catch one of the daily connecting flights to Saint Kitts (which takes about three hours). Nevis Sun Tours will arrange 15-minute water taxis to take you to and from the airport.

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Under Contract

Sold 3610 CHALMETTE CT. Green Hills $925,000

3605 KNOLLWOOD RD $1,500,000

Listing Agent, Anita Baltimore, Fridrich & Clark Realty

Under Contract

GALLATIN FARM 1026 Boze Lane 31.9 Acres $1,100,000 Co-Listed with Brenda Freeman

Sold

BURLINGTON 513 ARMISTEAD PLACE $575,000

Sold

COTTAGE PARK 798 Cottage Park Dr $410,000

4120 LEGEND HALL $1,200,000 Listing agent, Karen Morgan, Karen Morgan Realty

Hal Rosson

Representing Real Estate Buyers and Sellers Since 1971

615-271-2705

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024 39 halrosson@freemanwebb.com

F E AT U R E

MODENA, ITALY Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region is known for culinary staples like Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano, tortellini and traditional balsamic vinegar. It’s also the birthplace of lambrusco, a controversial (but delightful) sparkling red wine that pairs beautifully with the epicurean treasures on offer. But Modena, a city in EmiliaRomagna, is not just known for its food and wine. Luxury automakers, like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Pagani and Maserati, have called the city home — earning EmiliaRomagna the Motor Valley moniker. The city is also rich in art and architecture. After taking in the beautiful palaces and cathedrals, you can visit the birthplace of famed tenor Luciano Pavarotti.

If you want to immerse yourself in Modena’s art and culture, the best place to stay is legendary chef Massimo Boturra’s countryside estate, Casa Maria Luigia, which dates back to 1775. Each of the beautifully appointed rooms is adorned with art from Boturra and his wife’s personal collection and memorabilia from his three-Michelinstar restaurant Osteria Francescana. Even if you can’t get a coveted reservation at Osteria Francescana, you can hope to score a midnight snack in Boturra’s kitchen. There are several one-stop flights from Nashville to the Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport. Once you land, you can expect a 40-minute commute to Modena.

AMMAN, JORDAN Amman isn’t just Jordan’s capital. It’s also the country’s chief commercial, financial and international trade center — and arguably its most progressive city. Amman marks a crossing point for civilizations, so there are striking contrasts between the east and west parts of town. Head to the east, and you can savor an abundance of Jordanian cuisine at Jordan Heritage Restaurant in the bohemian Jabal al-Weibdeh neighborhood. Or you can explore the Amman Citadel perched atop the city’s highest hill, Jabal al-Qal’a. While Amman isn’t terribly pedestrianfriendly, a stroll down Rainbow Street is a must — with plenty of shopping, dining and people-watching opportunities available. The city’s astonishing selection of five-star accommodations includes the St. Regis Amman, which is located in the affluent Abdoun district to the west. Opulent offerings — like personal butler services, breathtaking views of the city, luxurious treatments at the Iridium Spa, and sunset Champagne sabrage rituals — hold up to the high standards the St. Regis is known for. Because of the language barrier, experts recommend booking interpreters or travel guides when possible. Remember to dress modestly — though with the exception of a few destinations, head coverings aren’t required. There are several one-stop and two-stop flights available from Nashville to Amman’s Queen Alia International Airport, but prepare yourself for a long day of travel. Tourist visas are required.

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BELLE MEADE

SOLD | BELLE MEADE

4401 HERBERT PLACE

403 W BROOKFIELD AVENUE

Barbara Keith Payne | 615.300.7337

$3,295,000

$4,600,000

THE RESERVE AT TEMPLE HILLS

FOREST HILLS

6685 HASTINGS LANE

5932 ROBERT E. LEE DRIVE

Dana Griscom | 615.485.5360

$1,949,000

$2,599,000

GREEN HILLS / WOODMONT

SOLD FOR LOT

WINDSTONE

1014A NOELTON AVENUE

4406 SUNNYBROOK DRIVE

1004 FALLING LEAF CIRCLE

Barbara Keith Payne | 615.300.7337

Jeanie Barrier | 615.423.8311

Barbara Keith Payne | 615.300.7337

$1,870,000

BRENTWOOD

$1,750,000

SOLD | OAK HILL

$1,645,000

RICHLAND/ CENTRAL

1104 CHELSEY COURT

855 PASADENA DRIVE

506 N WILSON BOULEVARD

Barbara Keith Payne | 615.300.7337

Dana Griscom | 615.485.5360

$1,249,000

$1,125,000

$799,900

NASHVILLE 4025 Hillsboro Pike, Suite 601 Nashville, TN 37215

WILLIAMSON CO 2 Cadillac Drive Brentwood, TN 37027

615.383.7914

615.371.2474

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

BON VOYAGE Visit Nashville’s French sister city

I MAY BE A LITTLE BIASED. But each time another friend posts photos of their trip to Paris on social media, I want to shake them a little. That’s not real France, I want to offer. Until you’ve left the Paris bubble of overdone — though cool — tourist attractions, you’ve not experienced the true heart of France, a wonderland with charms aplenty to rival Paris’ seductions. Nashville’s French sister city offers the perfect starting point for your explorations of this real France. Caen is an easy two-hour train ride from Paris’ Gare Saint-Lazare, making it eminently convenient to add a couple days up north in Normandy to your next Champs-Élysées shopping trip. Since my move from Nashville to France over a decade ago, I’ve lived around the country’s edges, acquiring more belongings with each subsequent

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move — from a tiny studio apartment down south in Aix-en-Provence, land of Cézanne and cicadas, to a one-bedroom furnished apartment in Pau, at the base of the lush Pyrenees mountains of France’s southwest, to my present comparative castle (two bedrooms, whoa!) up north in Viking territory. The France I’ve fallen in love with lives in these places. When I arrived in Caen (pronounced like “con” with an ever-so-slight G sound at the end) three years ago, we were in the middle of the pandemic. Health passes were required, and curfews were in place. The famous Normandy beaches were one kilometer beyond my allowed travel radius from home. Add in trying to understand Norman-accented French through masks when I was used to southern-France French, and it wasn’t the best time to get to know my new town.

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Château de Caen

But since then, this city of just over 100,000 people in a 48-community metropolitan area of nearly 250,000 has gradually returned to normal life and claimed a spot in my heart. Using the term “metropolitan” is perhaps hyperbolic, though, when referring to the flat agricultural landscape that stretches across the Caen plain to the sea. It’s not unusual to catch a tractor lumbering through city streets, and many of the non-highway roads in the region only become two-lane thoroughfares after everyone slows down and hugs the ditches in order to squeeze past each other. This firstborn of Nashville’s sister cities partnerships has begun the countdown to the grand events that will celebrate its millennium anniversary in May 2025. Caen was put on the map in the Middle Ages by William the Conqueror and his wife Matilda, who made it the capital of the Duchy of Normandy just prior to William’s 1066 invasion of England. The couple constructed a women’s abbey on the east side of town, a men’s abbey on the west side, and a castle in the center. All three are treasured parts of Caen’s present-day life and regularly the sites of community events. From my apartment on the east side, I can see the tips of the Abbaye aux Dames church, built of the famous creamy limestone quarried here, and I frequent its park’s lime-tree-lined avenues. While the abbey buildings

Abbaye aux Hommes

nfocusmagazine.com | A U G U S T 2024

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Abbaye aux Dames

are now used by Normandy region administrators, the church is still a parish church — one that has caught my breath on many a walk as the afternoon sun makes its old stones glow and shadows encroach around it. However, it wasn’t until last year that I wandered with a friend up to the very front of the Norman-Romanesque-style church’s bright interior and discovered, quite by accident, that pious Queen Matilda is buried there beneath a black marble slab. My poor American mind struggles to comprehend such history that is almost literally in my backyard and part of my everyday life! Unusual for their era, William and Matilda are remembered as having a true love story and true partnership in their endeavors. And that’s how they’re depicted in a bronze and brass sculpture by celebrated local artist Claude Quiesse, which caught me up short one day as I followed my usual walking route home from the artsy boutiques, clothing shops and cafes populating centre-ville’s pedestrian streets. How had I never noticed this elegance before? It turns out the elegance was new, and I’d just missed any fanfare around the sculpture’s installation at the foot of the couple’s castle — which dominates the center of town and is really more of a fort than a Versailles-style ornate edifice. Tubes of metal depict the ancient power couple beside each other, atop horses and without weapons, creating a sense of strength and forward movement, as though the wind is blowing their robes and hair behind them. Placed as they are, their fortress’s commanding walls tower in the background, a testimony to their successes. The scene simultaneously tells an ancient story with modern threads. On sunny days, this panoply includes students and other Caennais lounging on the lawn outside the stone walls. Locals join the tourists, who climb the ramparts to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the city. In the shadow of the château is one of Caen’s (and my) favorite neighborhoods for a meal out. Charming both in summer, when the pedestrian street becomes a huge terrace tinkling with life, and in winter, when the half-timbered buildings give off cozy vibes as warm light escapes their windows, the Vaugueux offers a variety of restaurants. You’ll easily find something to suit your palate’s whims, whether it’s delicious classic crêpes with local cider, French comfort food, a gourmet burger, tapas or fusion fare. Continuing west through the pedestrian center — if it’s before the 7 p.m. closing time — you can browse a wide range of independent and chain shops. Caen is still a bookstore and cafe town, though coffeehouses selling the true lattés I prefer are few, and a more traditional café crème must often suffice. Narrow Rue Froide begins alongside the Saint-Sauveur church and is nearly worth the visit to Caen on its own. Known as one of centre-ville’s oldest streets, its few blocks contain a bakery that often has a long line out the door, various concept stores and clothing boutiques, an épicerie selling local food products, and a hair salon or two, along with plenty of other window displays that will lure you inside. On the west side of the town center, William’s majestic Abbaye aux Hommes is now the Caen town hall. Like the other institutions William and Matilda founded in Caen, this one has had many different uses throughout its long life, including sheltering up to 10,000 civilians as the Allies sought to retake Normandy during the summer of 1944. Located only

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Church of Saint-Pierre

William and Matilda sculpture

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about 9 miles inland from the British troops’ D-Day beach landings — the Americans were busy to the west — Caen was a key objective for the early hours of the Allies’ June 6 efforts. But its Orne river and canal waterways, plus its road and rail links, made it valuable to the Germans too. They weren’t about to give it up easily. Thus, the city suffered six weeks of destructive Allied bombings before the Germans were finally pushed out that July. Some 2,000 civilians died in Caen. It’s this World War II history that most often brings Americans here, on their way to the famous Omaha and Utah beaches. Even 80 years later, war is a large part of this city’s story. Living here is teaching me firsthand about the long scars war writes on communities. The effects live on in the architecture, for example. Where Caen’s streets should be lined by Norman half-timbered buildings, only a few of those remain. For a long time, it was said that some 80% of Caen was destroyed that summer in 1944. However, experts have recently revised the number to 35%, taking into account the high percentage of housing destroyed while other elements of the town incurred less damage. The war’s effects also live in the family stories. A young Uber driver told me that his great-grandfather was among the French commandos who died storming the D-Day beaches with their American, British and Canadian counterparts. The family still goes together to lay flowers on his grave. The waterways that set Caen in crosshairs during the war are among its charms today. The tree-lined Orne river cuts through town on its way northward, where it empties into the English Channel. The Caen canal parallels the Orne from the sea into the city, providing access to the in-town marina and various shipping ports, including the Ouistreham ferry port for connections to Portsmouth, England. In summer, the bars and restaurants across the street from the marina open popular patios on its quayside. The huge Sunday morning market’s booths of vegetables, knickknacks and regional delicacies stretch outward from the quay across town toward the château. Occasionally, live music or art installations breathe cultural life into the city from the marina. Both the river and the canal are popular venues for watersports. One of my most delightful recent discoveries is the Orne river estuary, the spot where the river travels out of Caen to meet the English Channel. Landlocked as we are in Tennessee, the magic of this ecosystem where freshwater and saltwater join is new to me. It has become my French Radnor Lake, and though the terrain and nature that greet me along its paths are different from the Nashville version — replace deer and turtles with seals and swans — the effect is the same. The dunes, coastal mudflats and salt meadows provide a chance to breathe and relax, feeling far from the “metropolis” and its busyness — though in reality, it’s only a 15-minute drive from home, nestled among villages that are part of the Caen la Mer urban community. The estuary visitor center offers a robust calendar of programming for learning about the flora and fauna. There’s so much more to tell you. But perhaps it’s best to leave some discoveries for you to make when you come to meet the place and the people who form this special corner of France — which is, after all, family to Nashvillians.

Caen centre-ville

BY KAMI RICE PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISTOCK.COM/FELIPE RODRIGUEZ, ISTOCK.COM/FRANCK LEGROS AND KAMI RICE

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Marina

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Origin story

THE OTHER PANAMA CITY Exploring the rich culture of Panama’s capital

SITUATED ON THE COAST of the Panama Bay in the Gulf of Panama lies the Isthmus of Panama. This stretch of biodiverse land connects North and South America and is home to the Panama Canal. Cradled in the heart of the strip of land sits the country of Panama and its eponymous capital city. With its rich and vibrant history, beautiful architecture, natural and man-made attractions and dynamic culinary scene, this coastal metropolis offers an incredible respite for winter-weary Nashvillians.

ORIGINALLY SETTLED IN 1519 by Spanish conquistadors, Panama City is designed on a grid — a nod to European city planning. The city quickly became a stopping point for ships loaded with silver and gold on their voyages back to Spain. In 1671, the city was destroyed by British buccaneer Henry Morgan — the namesake for Captain Morgan rum. In 1674, Panamá Nuevo — now called Casco Viejo or the historic district — was built southwest of the original site of the city. As Panama City’s prominence grew in trade, so did the desire to create a commerce route between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. For centuries, ships had to sail around Chile’s southern tip, Cape Horn, adding two months of travel time to crossocean journeys. The first attempt to build the Panama Canal — one of the most difficult engineering feats in history — came from the French. From 1881 to 1889, Ferdinand de Lesseps, developer of the Suez Canal, oversaw the project to make the Panama Canal a reality. Unfortunately, he never realized his dream. After losing investor confidence — and the lives of approximately 22,000 people — the French abandoned their efforts to construct the canal. In 1904, the United States, under President Theodore Roosevelt, took over construction of the Panama Canal. After 10 years of construction, the new canal opened under U.S. operation, offering new opportunities for nautical commerce.

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Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo IN THE HEART of the historic district lies the site of the former Club Unión. The exclusive club once served as a haven for the city’s elite, but has since been transformed into the newly reimagined Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo hotel. The interior design has been masterfully modernized while retaining the club’s historic charm. Cascades of orchids and oversized vases filled with verdant plants adorn the common spaces, giving the feel of understated opulence. Boasting 159 luxury rooms and suites, the hotel offers sweeping views of the water with the modern Panama City skyline behind. Some rooms offer balconies, so guests can enjoy their morning coffee while watching the bustling city or sip a glass of wine as the tide ebbs and flows. The staff of the hotel exemplifies five-star service as they lead you to your destination — like the spa or the pool — with charm and grace. With six restaurants and bars to choose from, there is little need to leave the hotel. But guests will no doubt feel the draw of Panama City’s culture pulling them to explore. Luckily, the hotel is situated on a cobblestone street within walking distance of some of the city’s best restaurants and nightlife options.

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Food and fun VISITORS TO PANAMA CITY will find no shortage of magnificent food or exceptional activities. Panama City is the only city in the world that has a rainforest within city limits, and guests are welcome to explore the natural beauty of its biodiverse ecosystem. Hiking is abundant, and a visit to a turtle sanctuary to learn more about Panama’s conservation efforts is a must. History and architecture collide throughout the city, encouraging strolls and self-guided architecture tours through Casco Viejo. One of the best times to visit Panama City is just before Lent, as Carnival begins the Friday before Ash Wednesday. Originally a Roman Catholic celebration, Carnival now embraces all religions to create an atmosphere of unity. Carnival begins with a baptism of sorts, as cistern trucks release cannons of water onto a jubilant crowd during La Mojadera (the “water hose”). Then, visitors and locals alike enjoy a four-day celebration of colorful parades, tempting food stalls, the Carnival Queen crowning and more. The energy is electric, and each day’s celebrations last long into the night. Whether or not you make it for Carnival, Panama’s cuisine is a study in the extraordinary. Food stalls serving empanadas and local beers line the streets, while fine-dining restaurants serve local cuisine with international flare. Since 2017, Panama City has been designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, with influences from African, Spanish and indigenous cultures. No two meals are alike, and visitors will find flavorful dishes to suit any palate. When planning a spring break getaway or a couples retreat, the other Panama City is an escape to paradise. BY JANET KURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SOFITEL LEGEND CASCO VIEJO

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upporters of the R.H. Boyd Family Endowment Fund arrived at the Schermerhorn Symphony Center for an evening of dinner, dancing and raising funds at the 2024 Legacy Ball. The endowment fund helps minority students achieve their goals by providing scholarships in areas like business, theology and literature. R.H. Boyd also raises funds to support churches and nonprofits, and it’s currently working with Fisk University to renovate the Historic Boyd House. The opulent Legacy Ball began with a cocktail reception in the West Lobby, and entertainment from the Righteous Few Brass Band and CoJo Ko Music led the crowd into the Laura Turner Concert Hall. Master of ceremonies Jonathan Slocumb invited everyone to take their seats and urged the crowd to “make some noise,” peppering the evening with jokes that kept everyone laughing. Legacy Ball co-chairs André and Dorothea Churchwell and Herbert and Michelle Brown took the stage for opening remarks — thanking the crowd for supporting the fund and its important work. Then, guests greeted LaDonna Boyd, fifth-generation CEO and president of R.H. Boyd, with a standing ovation. “Let us continue together bridging divides and fostering inclusivity,” she said, reminding all in the room of the endowment fund’s mission. Nashville mayor Freddie O’Connell addressed attendees, and organist J.D. Plant treated guests to a special musical performance. Then, all settled in to enjoy a Flavor Catering dinner featuring an heirloom tomato and peach salad, sweet tea chicken with peach mostarda, and Southern tea cakes. Yvette Boyd and the endowment committee introduced the night’s undergraduate scholarship speaker, author and actor Aryn Wright-Thompson, and grant speaker, the Fannie Battle Day Home for Children. LaDonna led an awards presentation and Champagne toast, and Veronica Marable Johnson announced this year’s honorees. The 2024 R.H. Boyd Humanitarian Award was bestowed on the Matthew Walker Comprehensive Health Center, the 2024 R.H. Boyd Service Award was presented to Metro Nashville Public Schools director Adrienne Battle, and the 2024 R.H. Boyd Excellence Award went to Slim and Husky’s. Featured musical guest Eric Benét wrapped up the program, and DJ Raiden kept the fun going at the afterparty. BY MELISSA CORBIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND AND DANIEL MEIGS

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So Fourth nd So On In Whitland, neighbors collaborate to celebrate independence

eighborhoods are worth celebrating, and our democracy is worth protecting. That was the message from Mayor Freddie O’Connell when he spoke to the crowd at the annual Whitland Avenue Fourth of July parade. No stranger to the historic neighborhood, the mayor grew up around the corner from the parade route and attended the parade frequently. When he asked for a show of hands to see how long people had been coming to the iconic red-white-and-blue celebration, there were plenty of first-timers in the sweltering crowd — including Shinji Watanabe, consulate-general of Japan in Nashville, and staff from the consulate-general. But there were as many guests who had attended since 1977, when neighbors like Carole and John Sergent, Pat and Dan Burton, Nancy and Alan Saturn and Slick Lawson first dreamed up the event after the Bicentennial. A lot of sweaty logistics go into planning a parade and picnic for hundreds of guests. There are the invitations and the permits. The songleader and speakers. Security, sound system and portable toilets. A children’s train. Music stands for Jay Dawson’s “36-piece neighborhood orchestra.” Recycling bins. Someone’s got to grill hot dogs in 100-degree heat. The spreadsheet for soft drink procurement alone is a work of mathematical genius. Just after sunrise on the big day, coffee and doughnuts arrived on the sidewalk, and the team got to work. Tessa Stewart and her kids decorated the parade route with flags and bunting swagged across the road, while her husband David Stewart and other hosts — including Pat and Dan Burton’s daughter, Flavia, in town from North Carolina — set up stage and chairs, distributed fans, and filled canoes with ice and sodas. The behind-the-scenes hustle and hard work that create a party on July 4 also bind neighbors throughout the year. Periodic planning meetings, along with a late-June supper to thank the coordinators and sponsors who help pay for it all, bring the parade team together around the calendar. In patriotic Whitland, the ongoing conversation about July 4 makes the celebration of neighborhoods and democracy a year-round affair.

Carolyne Hadden, Chuck Welch and Gloria Houghland, Mary Simonsen, Mary and Larry Wieck

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BY CARRINGTON FOX PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND

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