OX Magazine - July 2020

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ISSN: 2046-6781

MAGAZINE OXFORDSHIRE’S FINEST

Kamari Romeo TOYS, TRANS AND THE TRUTH

PAUL WELLER SOULFUL SUNSHINE SONGS

SYLVIA VETTA AND NANCY HUNT COVID IN KENYA, CECIL RHODES AND TEACHING BLACK HISTORY

JULY 2020

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Guest Welcome

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have struggled lately with people who I thought understood that my mixed heritage affects how I feel in situations, how my chances are fewer simply due to the colour of my skin. I thought they got it. I was wrong. I did however praise a mate on a recent night out, for saying: “I get it. People ask you different questions with different intent.” The sigh I let out… for they seemed to comprehend the experiences and microaggressions I face every day. The therapist who suggested I hated white men, the student who calmly presented the idea that their black friends had no issues so I should embrace non-racialism, the people who ask where I am really from. You might think a marginalised community would be more accepting… well, there’s also reluctance to accept my ethnic identity as part of my LGBTQIA+ identity by using a more inclusive flag. I have worked in student support for the National College of Hypnosis and Psychotherapy for a few years, with the new principal – Stuart Cale – recently offering me the position of equalities and diversity officer. Honoured, the first words that tumbled from my mouth were, “I’m not going to be quiet anymore, I’m going to speak up for the inequality and erasure I see in my own profession.” And more broadly, now is the time to evoke real change, for minority groups to finally be heard, not gaslighted and othered. For our transgender siblings, for example, to feel supported by the Gender Recognition Act. I can speak of my experience growing up in Oxfordshire as a mixed heritage child, however the emotional load of explaining it is humungous. I can’t do the work for you, so please stop asking. Educate yourself, think about how your words may land on someone else, and spread some kindness. And when black, transgender, human lives matter, we will have achieved something, and those daily experiences and microaggressions will have been for something.

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Contributors SAM BENNETT

ELOISE LONSDALE

is a seasoned theatre expert, below average cricket player, and editor of the Carterton Crier. He once played Friar Tuck in Robin Hood.

is currently studying politics, philosophy and English at the Open University. She’s also a professional pedestrian who knows the first ‘Shrek’ film script by heart.

TOBY HAMBLY

ESTHER LAFFERTY

is a fan not only of piña coladas, but also of getting caught in the rain. An ex-publican and pizzaiuolo, he is now privileged enough to ramble on about similar subjects in these hallowed pages.

SOPHIE ELKAN

is the anchor of the hugely successful Oxfordshire Artweeks festival and a keen triathlete.

LEWIS ETHERIDGE

has a deep abiding love for fashion, feminism and all things fabulous. She combines writing, PR and motherhood so spends an inordinate amount of time calling people darling.

took a step back from engineering to travel and teach yoga. He now runs Root Steady Yoga, sharing his experience in private and group classes.

JAMES PIKE

KEVIN HAGGARTHY

is a full-time graphic designer, proud father of three boys and insufferable film nerd. That nerdiness is now unleashed in these pages for your immeasurable pleasure.

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

has 25 years experience as a leading motoring journalist and broadcaster. He has made several TV appearances and is an ex driving consultant for Porsche.

AMANDA HANLEY

is an authority on interior design. She has worked with an enviable list of associates including Harrods. She lives in the Cotswolds.

PETER HOLTHUSEN

is a best-selling author, explorer and travel writer who has written for OX since 2007. His career started at The Sunday Times, and he is a regular contributor to numerous travel magazines.

RENÉE WATSON

runs her own Oxford-based science consultancy WATS.ON, where she boasts the delicious title of ‘Head of Explosions’.

PHILIP BALDWIN

is a human rights activist, with a focus on LGBT issues and sexual health. He writes for a number of publications, including ‘HuffPost’ and ‘Gay Times’.

ZAYNA RATTY

is a hypno-psychotherapist by day and Chair of Oxford Pride and OxFriend by night. She writes on issues relating to mental health, PoC and the LGBTQIA+ community.

MANDA TUDGE

loves being outdoors rather than indoors and spends her time being a mum and teaching secondary science in Oxford where she lives with her husband, two teenage daughters and two dogs.

LITA DOOLAN

is a travel writer and award-winning playwright with over eight shows staged in London, and beyond. She performs ‘Love Poetry along the Royal Mile’ at the Edinburgh Fringe.

MICHELLE HEATHER

is a qualified garden designer and passionate gardener. She loves exploring gardens and searching out new plants.


Contents July 2020 FEATURES 7 What’s On

10 Dreaming of the Sea 12 “Trees are essential to us and our world” 17 Come My Fanatics! The Folk Horror Revival JAMES GILLIES

has many years of experience in managing and creating wildlife habitats. In 2018 he launched his hugely successful meadow project, which created a patchwork of habitats across the UK.

30 Books to encourage conversation about identity with children 33 Steve Hackett: Doing Things Piecemeal 37 International Day of Friendship: Cooking with Chums

51 Conservation on the River Thame 55 Jinja: Attractively Lush, Adrenaline Rush 86 Andrez Harriott: What Humanity Can Be 88 Jane Davidson: Love, Labour and Lessons 93 There’s a Gorilla in Your Living Room 96 Homes: Bringing the Outdoors in ON THE COVER

MARIA O’MEARA

is an empowerment and personal performance coach and master neuro-linguistic programming practitioner. Her business was born out of an absolute passion for continuous self-development.

21 “On Our Own Terms”: Kamari Romeo On Toys, Trans and the Truth 25 Paul Weller: Soulful Sunshine Songs 28 Not so Black and White, with Sylvia Vetta and Nancy Hunt 83 The Smiling Sessions: La Voix GARDENS

40 Blenheim Palace: Seventy Years of Visitors 44 Hidcote Manor Garden and the Man Who Created It 47 Gardens Add Value to Our Lives 53 Outside-Inside Spaces FASHION & BEAUTY

COVER IMAGE Kamari Romeo © John Godwin

OX Magazine is published by Fyne Associates Ltd 01235 856300 Editorial enquiries: sam@fyne.co.uk Advertising enquiries: jill@fyne.co.uk National sales enquiries: Dan McCloskey, TMSH 07896 673328 dan@tmsh.co.uk

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61 Back Garden Beach 64 Currently Craving 65 Different Ways to Wear 66 Finishing Touches 67 Tania Wedin: Shade 70 Best Foot Forward 73 Beauty Giveaway 75 Tan-Talising Summer Skin 78 July’s Jubilations COLUMNS

39 The Big Bang | Renée Watson 71 This Month I’m Inspired By… | Sophie Elkan 89 Carbon Chronicles | Manda Tudge

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WHAT’S ON

Sarah Derrick Little Brother Eli

5 July

Virtual Cowley Road Carnival Day

The Jerichos

From 11am After Cowley Road Works, the charity which organises the annual Cowley Road Carnival, took the sad but necessary decision to cancel this year’s street carnival, the team got to work to reimagine an event off the streets, to be streamed live online.

DJ G

cowleyroadworks.co.uk Danny Mellin

Patrick Griffin

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International graphic artist produces unique artwork in Chipping Norton Graphic artist, Luke Embden has produced a unique large-scale linear artwork reflecting life in Chipping Norton, in the windows of a former department store on the High Street. Luke, who grew up in the Cotswold town, has painted the windows of the former Beales store, capturing features of the town and its community. lukeembden.co.uk

Photo: Luke Embden

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9-11 July

The Ultimate DriveIn Entertainment Experience

u k k ar nS ma Ae

Playhouse Playmakers, Oxford Playhouse’s professional writers’ attachment programme led by award-winning playwright Clare Bayley, is launching an online Showcase for summer 2020. The Playmaker programme has provided mentorship and support to new and emerging playwrights across the course of the last year and will culminate with a showcase of new writing across Oxford Playhouse’s website and social media channels. The play extracts premiered on 26 June and are available for audiences to access at oxfordplayhouse. com. All of the extracts are free to stream, but audiences can donate to the ongoing Playhouse Plays On fundraising appeal here: oxfordplayhouse.com/supportus/make-a-donation

©

Oxford Playhouse Playmakers Showcase 2020

Henley Festival has sadly been postponed until 2021 but the party goes on. Supported by Henley Royal Regatta, Henley Festival and Coalition Agency present ‘drive-in’ event, Car Park Party – a socially distanced and safe entertainment experience. The UK’s top comedic talent will be supplied by the world-famous Comedy Store on 9 & 10 July, with Henley welcoming comedy circuit stalwarts Dane Baptiste, Hal Cruttenden, Suzi Ruffell (pictured) and Christian Reilly, hosted by Stephen Grant. Following on from Car Park Comedy, Henley Festival will further host Car Park Theatre and Car Park Karaoke on 11 July. Henley Festival, Lion Meadows henley-festival.co.uk carparkparty.com

15 July

World Premiere: Invisible Music – an immersive and contemporary digital meditation on disability 8pm Platform 4’s acclaimed and unforgettable live event, Invisible Music, has been transformed into a new digital piece of work, blending film and soundscape to create an immersive and intimate meditation on hearing loss. Revitalising their gig-theatre roots in an all-encompassing aural headphone experience, this digital world premiere hopes to raise awareness for the 12 million individuals in the UK with hearing difficulties by exploring the sensation of having the frequency of your life’s soundtrack altered. Invisible Music will be available to stream online from Wednesday 15 July at 8pm. impairment. The project has been supported by emergency funding from Arts Council England. Numerous arts venues have come together in support of Invisible Music and will also broadcast the video on their own channels. These include Theatre Royal Winchester and Oxford’s North Wall. platform4.org

Jahmar Ngozi, playwright

Natalia Knowlton, playwright

Other Dates National Picnic Month 1-31 July International Day of Friendship 30 July

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Dreaming of the Sea Rosie Colvin

During the spring sunshine of lockdown, in one of the most landlocked counties in the UK, Oxfordshire residents have been dreaming of the sea. For its artists, these yearnings and memories have been expressed in art to evoke in the viewer that wonderful feeling of dipping your toes in the edge of the waves.

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ynsham artist Alison Berrett, for example, describes her love of the coast with a passion evident in her soulful seascapes that capture both the power and energy of the water and the ephemeral quicksilver nature of the ever-changing waves. “Oxfordshire is a beautiful place with expansive skies and the beautiful Cotswold countryside, and I love living here. However, I miss the sea and the freedom of living near the coast. The sea pulls me towards it almost as the gravity of the moon cycles pull the waves in and out with an elemental magnetic force. For me, there is nothing more energising and cleansing than time spent beside it. And even in the most static coastal view, there’s always colour, movement and rhythm. “I grew up by the coast and some of my earliest memories are of my mother taking my siblings and me, dressed warmly and with

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

Alison Berrett

pyjamas underneath, down to the seafront when it was a high tide in Weston-super-Mare. There we would watch the waves crashing over the wall, sometimes running away from the sea spray as it erupted like lava towards us. “Later, when a fellow art student and I took ourselves down to Exmouth beach during the terrible storms and made paintings of the sea, I had a revelation about the way I could express myself and respond to the thrill of nature. We were encrusted with sand and the wind was so strong I could only see through a small slit in my scarf which was wrapped tightly around my head. There were some women in the beach cafe opposite looking on in bewilderment, yet it was a turning point for me. The speed at which I had to work and the resultant intuitive and impulsive mark-making are now a central part of all the art I create. “I regularly go to favourite destinations,


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usually in North Devon and Cornwall, to walk, draw and paint the sea and coastline. I particularly love Woolacombe, and St Ives is inspirational with its rich artistic heritage – I love to visit both the coves and the Tate too where a giant curved window overlooks the sea and reflects the water back into the galleries. “Cornwall is glorious in the summer, and equally amazing in the winter when there is more space on the beaches – the light is more changeable and the more tempestuous weather adds theatre and vigour. I get such a thrill when the world around me is dramatic and overwhelming. I love that feeling of being truly alive.” Alison records the light, dynamism and energy of squally waves with her lyrical lines, using colour with passion to capture the joy, wonder and awe that she feels, drawing in situ and then, on her return to her studio, creating series of drawings in pastel, paintings and collages with a degree of abstraction, blending the elements of the land and water with memories and emotion. Each recreates a sense of wave after wave hitting the sand and the multiple directions of spray, white horses, swirls and puddles, tantalising turquoise, azure and royal blue set against sienna, peach and ochre. It is the fragility of the coastal habitat that caught the attention of Headington painter and printmaker Jane Strother whose interest in the environment leads her to observe, sketch and reflect upon topography, ecology and botany. Her latest series of work focuses on the west coast of Ireland which, like much of the coastline of the British Isles, is eroding faster than expected, she explains, “and this little piece of Mayo is no exception. “I arrived towards the tail end of Hurricane Dorian last year with nothing between us and the devastated Bahamas. Poking about on an exposed, rocky beach, I had time to delight in the extraordinary colour of the rock pools and came back the following day with sketchbooks, only to find that the wind had strengthened overnight and the outgoing tide had whipped away anything that wasn’t fixed.” Each of Jane’s pieces captures the depth of the pools, the wateriness, the fluidity, the quality of the vegetation, and tells the underlying story of the flora and fauna at the tideline through careful composition, colour and mark-making. “My paintings, drawings and prints are informed by quick sketchbook drawings made at the time and many photographs, recording the look, feel and energy at the edge of these waters. I record both the rather elusive sea creatures and correspondingly abundant sea weed species.”

Jane Strother

For ceramicist Maxine Macdonald, in contrast, there is just one marine species that fires her imagination and it is the octopus, which inspires many of her hand-built pottery pieces – both decorative and functional in Octomugs, in which the handle is a curved tentacle, and Octobottles that could have been pulled from pirate legends of buried treasure. “I’m fascinated by the octopus,” she enthuses. “It has been my favourite creature for as long as I can remember so it is probably my ‘spirit creature’! I love the the way they can be camouflaged in organic neutral hues or appear in beautiful striking colours. Octopuses are very intelligent and also have such character. With eight limbs and their elegant twists, they’re incredibly expressive animals and they’re playful in nature too, a winning combination. They’re fun to watch and equally fun to sculpt.” And for jewellers Rosie Colvin and Sally Spencer, it is tidal finds that inspire many of their pieces. Rosie sets cowrie shells into silver findings while Sally’s rockpool collection wraps shimmering silver starfish in cobalt blue, turquoise and aquamarine – reminders of precious time by the sea and the treasure to be found in rockpools and on the beach. A Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, Sally describes how her love affair with stones started when she was small, spending many happy hours collecting pebbles on the beach. The stones may have become more expensive over time, she laughs, “but I am still fascinated by them.”

Maxine Macdonald

Sally Spencer

For further immersion in the coastal treasures to be found here in Oxfordshire, and a virtual trip to the coast through the work of dozens of artists, visit artweeks.org/ festival/theme/trip-coast JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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“Trees are essential to us and our world” As we appreciate walks in the local countryside and the freedom of the great outdoors this summer, we take a look at artists’ work inspired by local woods, trees and the stories they tell.

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n this heartbreakingly beautiful spring, my walks to Shotover Hill have been a lifeline,” says Ella Clocksin, artist and art teacher. “Completely hidden away in the woods, well off the beaten track and with only the birds for company, I’ve been drawing and painting. Getting totally absorbed in the deliberate and subliminal decisions in painting can be a way of stilling my mind from the losses and uncertainties of the wider situation. It means noticing, moment by moment, what’s in my field of vision and hearing, and responding on the paper in watercolour, pencil, crayon and more. It’s not synaesthesia. It’s more like when we dance. We hear the music, respond to it and move. I’ve long worked from observation to abstraction, so I’m used to processing what


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swirling around me? Whatever you believe, trees are essential to us and our world. It’s a joy to be able to explore them.”

I see into more abstract compositions. But this current series also transcribes the rhythm and the musical undulation of birds singing in the woods.” Ella’s latest paintings include trees, branches, tangled undergrowth and the notations of what she hears in the woods. Her lines and shapes mimic the visual shape or pattern of the birds singing, their calls and responses to one other across the woods; the bludgeon cries of alarm, the thin, falling keen of a red kite, a blurred murmuring, a sharp clear staccato, the two-note chiffchaff, and the baroque ornamentations of a blackbird in full song. Cumnor artist Sue Side has explored the slow, symbiotic work of the forest environment with inky paintings and atmospheric etchings in an exhibition, Arboreal, available to view online over the summer. “This year, more than ever, my lifelong fascination with trees seems to resonate even louder. As the world is slowly waking up to their importance, I am shouting loud about the wonder that is trees. From their mossy root systems to their light-seeking crowns, my work celebrates these incredible carbon storehouses and the symbiotic environment of which they are part. The exhibition will take you through ancient forest, inviting you to look up into inky, sky soaring tree branches or to look down and explore intertwining webs of knotty roots. Etchings of endangered woodland animals highlight the forest as an interdependent organism. Wandering deep in Wytham Woods, which I am so lucky to live near, always brings a lift to the heart and peace to the soul. Is this due to the heady daylight oxygen and phytoncides I am breathing in or a deep acknowledgement of ancient tree language, and ‘wood wide web’

“Trees are forever present and so majestic. They are here when we are born and will carry on long after all the people on earth have passed on. It’s as if they are watching over us, and so my sculpture reminds us to value what we hold dear. That’s especially important in times like this,” continues sculptor Christopher Townsend. Best known for his iron tree sculptures, Christopher works in a charming rustic barn studio in Asthall, from which the beautiful lush Windrush Valley drops away in emerald green. Christopher sees his art as a way of describing and interpreting a journey through life and as a response to stimuli, feelings and emotions: the inspiration for many of his #lovethetree designs comes from the ancient and mystical Wychwood Forest close by. His tree sculptures represent both the tree of life and the family tree, so many of his creations are bespoke with the names of family members, for example, on the leaves. Some are wallmounted, others freestanding, windswept, or even Daliesque, and the natural steel finish of an

“TREES ARE FOREVER PRESENT AND SO MAJESTIC” angle-ground tree almost glitters with life. The shadows add a further dimension so that the tree’s impact moves with time, throughout the day. Populating his metal forest, Chris also creates leaping fish from iron, giant dragonflies and huge Day of the Triffids seedheads a metre in diameter. Here too small characters roam like The Borrowers, made from horseshoe nails, these figures dance, spin, rock and even climb amongst the leaves that catch the light along the curling twisty branches of the hazel or the extraordinary corkscrew willow. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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The ethereal woods of literature have inspired a new series of watercolours and mixed media paintings by Enstone artist Andrea Bates. Her semi-abstract paintings are inspired by parallel worlds and painted from both memory and her imagination as she depicts scenes from the book, The Hidden Life of Trees and from Tolkien’s Lord of The Rings in which he describes a fictional Fangorn Forest. “Here trees sway and confer and take on a life of their own,” she explains. That trees are living, breathing entities in our world comes across strongly in her work.

Andrea Bates

Andrea Bates

Ian Sanders OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

Haunting trees also appear in the paintings of Shipton-under-Wychwood’s Julia Sorrell who focuses on careful observation, and reduces the scenes she sees using warm and cool colours. She delights in giving dignity to the overlooked subjects. Her husband, furniture-maker Ian Sanders, hand-carves unique tree-tables inspired by the trees from which they originate. Crafted from native British trees, his finished tables are both a smooth and flowing tree sculpture and a piece of decorative furniture. Ian was originally a botanist studying plant growth and form. His pieces, gloriously timeless, reflect his respect for the natural world. Each could almost have been

Here trees sway and confer and take on a life of their own

Julia Sorrell


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carried from the woods or a fairytale; a unique piece of both time and nature for the home. It is the famous 15th-century painting by Paolo Uccello, The Hunt in the Forest, which hangs in the Ashmolean, and the promise of tales within it that inspired artist Christine Erica Bainbridge’s latest series of art. “Uccello’s success with perspective draws my imagination deep

into that forest with its hint of moonlight and mystery,” she explains. “It is a forest I want to explore leaving far behind the energy and noise of the hunt which invades its silence. I started painting, thinking how colour could express the forest in all its different moods. One painting led to another and the magic of the forest took over. “I have always loved painting trees and during recent months have spent a lot of time walking in the ancient Holton Wood and nearby Bernwood Forest,” she continues. “There is always the anticipation of seeing deer as I search through the trunks to catch flashes of movement. The plantations of aspen are particularly inspirational as they have similarities to Uccello’s painting; the canopy of rustling leaves high above with their tall branchless trunks which diminish into distance, and hint at the unknown beyond.” You can see more on all these artists and others at artweeks.org where the May festival art trails – including one that takes you ‘Into The Woods’ – remain live over the summer.

Christine Erica Bainbridge

Christine Erica Bainbridge

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Come My Fanatics! THE FOLK HORROR REVIVAL JAMES PIKE

With the festival season taking a massive hit, partaking in mass gatherings, the worship of ancient deities, psychedelic induced nightmares and unholy carnal pleasures may be lower down on your todo list this year. Termed by Piers Haggard – coming to prominence when referenced by Mark Gatiss for BBC Four’s A History of Horror – folk horror is having a revival and is the prefect remedy for your festival fix. Initially exploring the underbelly of British folklore, folk horror has since extended its macabre breadth globally, featuring wider themes on the darker side of human existential conflict and fear of the unrevealed – the following films are a great place to start your trip into the unknown. The Wicker Man

© British Lion Pictures

Witchfinder General

© American International Pictures

THE UNHOLY TRINITY To really get to grips with the genre you need to start with the films that helped to define it. Going under the unofficial banner of The Unholy Trinity, Witchfinder General (1968), The Blood on Satan’s Claw (1971) and The Wicker Man (1973) are widely regarded as the progenitors of folk horror, setting the hallmarks that can be found in later works. Taking the viewer out of their comfort zone, these films have a common focus on communities that are isolated, practicing customs and belief systems that are often violent and unforgiving yet ultimately embraced by its inhabitants. It’s the dread of the unknown and the lack of understanding from an outsider’s point of view that really taps into our primal fears and the complete lack of perceived control we have. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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KILL LIST Following two contract killers as they fulfil a dubious client’s list of hits, Ben Wheatley’s second feature really gets under your skin. With each hit we start to see Jay’s (Neil Maskell) psyche unravel as his methods of dispatch become increasingly more violent and disturbing, with his ominous employers upping the stakes at every turn. Wheatley’s Kill List (2011) takes heavy cues from earlier British folk horror, ramping up the occult elements as the film draws to a close. With Ken Loach-esque realistic dialogue and visceral imagery, Kill List is an unnerving ride that delves deeper down the rabbit hole uncovering unfathomable concepts that culminate in an ending that will leave you hollow.

Kill List

© Film4 Productions

THE WITCH Robert Eggers’ directorial debut is an absolute revelation. A highly mature piece of work that could be considered that of a veteran. Set in 17th-century New England, a banished puritan family sets up a farm by the edge of a huge, remote forest where sinister forces lay in wait. With an emphasis on authenticity (using researched dialogue and natural light), The Witch (2015) favours the slow, deep dive into the audience’s fears – showing little of the terrors that hide within the forest, it leaves almost everything to the audience to decide what fates the family are meeting.

MIDSOMMAR Ari Aster’s follow-up to Hereditary shows all the hallmarks of classic British folk horror. Unfairly accused of emulating The Wicker Man, Midsommar (2019) basks in its own ideas and mythology as troubled couple Dani and Christian (Florence Pugh and Jack Reynor) travel to Sweden to visit their friend’s rural hometown for its fabled midsummer festival. Gleefully leading the viewer into a false sense of security, Midsommar subverts classic horror tropes by shooting almost exclusively in daylight, shielding you from the intentions of the bizarre and terrifying customs of the inhabitants. Again, with any good folk horror, it’s all about drip-feeding the audience, letting their imaginations run wild and skewing their understanding as to why this is all happening.

The Witch

© Universal Pictures

Midsommar © A24

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THE WAILING When a string of brutal murders starts to cause mass hysteria in a rural Seoul suburb, local detective Jong-goo (Kwak Do-won) suspects an elderly stranger from Japan. The Wailing (2016) takes the sentiments of British folk horror and injects its own folklore into the mix, it completely upends the tropes by blurring the lines between mystery and full-blown supernatural horror. As a viewer you’re in constant duality as the evidence supports multiple theories of rational and irrational fear that has one hell of a payoff – the main question after the credits roll will be whether you can handle what you’ve just seen.

The Wailing

© 20th Century Fox Korea

HEREDITARY Aster’s second entry is his directorial debut, a highly effective and creepy-as-hell film that marked the arrival of a contemporary horror auteur. Hereditary (2018) employs time and patience to lure the audience into its sinister goings on before unleashing an utterly batshit finale that had audiences divided right down the middle. Featuring a powerhouse performance from Toni Collette as Annie, Hereditary’s themes of grief, loss and the weight of family legacy are laid bare as the audience traverses strange scenarios and uncovers disturbing revelations about Annie’s family history, leaving the neck hairs standing.

A Field in England © Film4 Productions

A FIELD IN ENGLAND Ben Wheatley’s second foray into folk horror wears its influences proudly on its sleeves. Shot in glorious black and white, the story follows a group of deserters during the mid-17th century English Civil War, fleeing from a battle through an overgrown field. Captured by an alchemist, the men are forced to help him search for hidden treasure that he believes is buried in the field. Utilising its single location to create a sense of isolation physically and metaphorically – coupled with the main cast under the influence of some seriously strong hallucinogens, A Field in England (2013) revels in absurdity and unknown terrors – it is the very definition of a trip, willing you to ride along regardless of whether you want to or not.

Hereditary © A24

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20 | LGBTQIA+

© John Godwin

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“On Our Own Terms”

KAMARI ROMEO ON TOYS, TRANS AND THE TRUTH Kamari Romeo is a London-based actor and producer who seeks to offer training and performance opportunities curated by underrepresented voices. His business Humblebee Creative Ltd offers fresh perspectives on minority voices through theatre, spoken word, live art, archiving and documenting practices. Humblebee’s Toybox is a 22-minute visual poetry album with music and puppetry, looking at experiences of British childhood. Written and performed by Romeo, Sirena Reynolds, Tobi, Tiahnna and Maya, Toybox endeavours to bring honest conversations into sharp focus via a series of short, filmed poems, performed to original music, in collaboration with five care leavers aged 20-27.

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fter my mother died suddenly in April 2018,” says Romeo, “I began to take an interest in the idea of deconstructing my childhood through the perspective of a child, piecing together the memories of my care experience. It suddenly felt more important than ever to delve into my history as a secondgeneration Zambian immigrant, growing up in England, playing with Chinese toys and watching American TV to figure out what parts of my multicultural upbringing I would hold on to as an adult out of the system. Through my mentorship with arts collective Lyrix Organix, I wanted to dissect how I could use poetry as a tool to communicate empathy, forgiveness and worth.” We got in touch with the performer, asking first if he’s been present at any of the protests following the appalling death of George Floyd, and how he feels he can bring about change. I haven’t attended any protests and have not ruled out the option. I fully support and encourage individuals fighting for equality in the ways they feel are appropriate, providing their expression of this protest is informed. At this time, it is really important for me to conserve my energy, preserve my mental health and stay focused on using my gift as a creative producer to make change in my community. There are so many types of work that need to be happening simultaneously in order to make this change; this includes visionaries, healers, educators, storytellers and frontline responders. Are you pouring any anger or sadness into your work? My projects are usually led by some form of

emotion and yes, anger and sadness does play a large part in the formation of those ideas. I do however believe that in order to be free from the control those emotions hold, you must find a balance between self-care, talking about your emotions outside of your work and having a focused approach to the work so that the lines aren’t blurred. I guess it’s part of the whole art as therapy vs. therapy as art debate. The answer will be different for everyone. Are there any ways in which incidents like George Floyd’s death affect BAME care leavers differently to other members of the BAME community? When we reference the ‘BAME’ community we include narratives on black, Asian and multiracial people (for the most part). The characteristics of an ethnic group by some definitions are considered to be very different from those that are common in western culture; some people have even argued that national minorities such as the Cornish, Welsh, Scottish and Northern Irish should be included in the definition. I wonder if traveller communities and maybe even refugees are considered BAME. I genuinely don’t know. Basically, the term has all the best intent but says everything and nothing. I can only speak on behalf of my experience as a black person but even then can’t speak on behalf of all black care leavers. Some people are raised with families/guardians that look like them and some are not; some have access to their cultures, heritage and history and some do not. I can speculate through my personal experience that maybe care leavers are doing slightly better during this time due to having a stronger relationship to loss. We spend a lot of our lives grieving for various things

For someone that makes her living as a writer, you would think JK Rowling would understand the nuances of language, discussion and identity JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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LGBTQIA+ | 23

and have a resilience that can be both a blessing and a curse at times. At the end of the day we’re all human and I have seen people of all races broken by this event and other ones that have happened before this. Care leavers are at the heart of Toybox (the spoken word pieces of which are harrowing, poignant and brilliant, so thank you). Sum up the project and explain how crucial it’s been in helping you come to terms with your childhood. Thank you! The project was named Toybox to take experiences, play with them and put them back with a better understanding. This metaphorical toybox was upgraded from a shoebox to a force field of poems, the best material for exploring memories. Although the main body of work was my story, I wanted to include other voices because I knew there were so many other untold stories. Even though I had decent relationships with my foster families, I was never once connected to conversations/ resources around who I was as a person and the positive parts about where I came from. The filmed poems – written at ten different ages by five care leavers – form an archive of our experiences. Creative, unapologetic, truthful and on our own terms. We don’t get to do that often. What does the future hold for Toybox? I would describe Toybox as a contemporary archive – maybe one day we can add more stories. Thinking big, I would love to see this project and other spoken word projects on television. What else is on your schedule, both as an individual performer and as artistic director of HumbleBee Creative? Watch this space due to Covid-19... I’m meant to be acting in Young Jean Lee’s play, Straight White Men at Southwark Playhouse. The show is due to run 16 September-10 October and I’m really excited about it! In terms of Humblebee projects, I am launching a creative black history programme for young people and a new UK-based drag collective. These are both annual programmes which I’ve been inspired to create as a response to the last few months. I will also be launching the second year of Kamp Kiki, an indoor weekend retreat for trans women, trans men and non-binary people from the African diaspora. In the event the face-to-face Kamp is not possible this year, we are looking at the options for an online version of the retreat. I would suggest anyone interested in being a part of it stays in touch via social media or the Humblebee website.

What are your thoughts on JK Rowling’s tweeting? People like JK Rowling voice their opinions in the way they do because they are scared of their identities being erased. Erasure is a very scary and painful thing. As a trans man, it is an experience I can also relate to. For someone that makes her living as a writer however, you would think she would understand the nuances of language, discussion and identity and how to navigate that on social media. My opinion is that 280 characters isn’t the smartest way to go about having such a large discussion and that’s probably why I don’t use Twitter for these conversations. The discussion should be about privilege and how some intersections of identity can affect equality. It’s only then that we can move forward with solutions that factor in safety for both parties. If we continue to have black and white conversations about complex topics, we can’t possibly move forward. I don’t hate her. I also refuse to give her any more energy/power than is necessary. (Don’t @ me.)

Left to right: Sirena Reynolds and Kamari Romeo © John Godwin

Which BAME voices are you reading, watching and listening to right now? Ama Ata Aidoo, George the Poet, my copy of Post Traumatic Slave Syndrome is on the way and OMG… Spotify’s Black Lives Matter playlist is a VIBE! @creativehumblebee JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020


MUSIC | 25

Soulful Sunshine Songs Regarded as one of the UK’s most successful songwriters, Paul Weller’s 15th solo album is set for release early in July. He speaks to Neill Barston about coping with lockdown, a dislike of music streaming, and hoped-for plans to resume a UK tour this autumn.

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s Paul Weller explains, in spite of all else For his own part, he’s recently completed final production happening out there in the world that has created work on his latest album, On Sunset, which notably stands many uncertainties, he feels fortunate and as his 15th solo recording. Lead single ‘Earth Beat’ offers a contented. Having turned 62 in May, it seems lush slice of soul pop, which is swiftly followed by ‘Village’, he is very much at ease with himself these days, some which neatly sums up its optimistic spirit that seems distance from the widely perceived image of the ‘angry refreshingly relaxed amid these complex, challenging times. young man’ of his early career fronting The Jam. “I don’t It’s a consistent theme across a record that places centre really celebrate birthdays, but my daughter shares mine, so stage some of the soul motifs belying his earliest musical it’s very much about her,” he gestures breezily, explaining influences. There are also touches of electronica and that if anything, he’s enjoying songwriting more than ever, orchestral arrangements that reveal he’s keen to experiment and is in a rich vein of creativity. musically when the mood takes him. The ‘Modfather’ belongs in that most rare of categories: “I wouldn’t say making music has got any harder. I think an artist who has successfully I’m actually enjoying the reinvented himself over the I’ve actually been very focused being process and the writing a lot course of more than 40 years. now than I ever did at home these past few weeks, doing a more He’s managed to walk the line before in terms of recording. lot of writing” between classic rock, punk and I have a great respect and new wave, through to 60s soul appreciation for it,” says Weller, that inspired the Style Council, and later balladry that has who coproduced the new album with long-term collaborator equally attracted critical acclaim and resonated with longJan ‘Stan’ Kybert, whose long list of credits include working term fans. with the likes of Oasis, The Verve and Massive Attack. His last recording two years ago, True Meanings, narrowly “I wanted to do an album that was soulful and also had missed becoming Weller’s fifth number one solo album, an electronic edge to it. Most of the songs on it are quite but having consciously built it around the lilting lullaby of uplifting, and to me it’s a sunshine record. With ‘Village’, ‘Gravity’, he says that it placed him in a strong position. like a lot of my songs, there’s a lot of me in there, so there’s While the unwelcome arrival of the coronavirus pandemic a key idea, but then you make it broader to be about other may have scratched out his latest round of UK gigs, he has people.” instead been squirrelling himself away in his beloved Surrey His previous recordings have been noted for a careful studio, Black Barn, to lay down new material. “I’ve actually sprinkling of notable guests down the years, and his latest been very focused being at home these past few weeks, follows in this pattern. There are appearances from his old doing a lot of writing, as well as some more recording in the friend Mick Talbot from Style Council days, Slade’s Jim Lea studio. To be honest, these days when I am not working, I playing violin on the very 60s-influenced ‘Equanimity’, and am actually home quite a lot with my wife and kids as we’ve several backing vocal tracks from indie outfit The Staves. been home schooling. I haven’t really been bothered by the As for the album’s title track, he says ‘On Sunset’ was lockdown, other than having to queue for food or medicine,” inspired by catching up with his eldest son in Los Angeles, he offers of the present situation that has placed the music which holds particularly strong memories for him as a industry, as much as the wider economy, largely on pause. teenager on his first tour of America. Beyond music, family is clearly a major priority, and he “I was out near the Whisky a Go Go club in LA and hadn’t seems pleased at least two of his eight children – including really walked that area of the city since I was 19. A huge daughter Leah – have shown real musical ability. He quips amount of time has elapsed since then, so it’s a reflective that “they sometimes patronise me ” in a fashion only song about that. It also became something else about being children can achieve with their parents. in a place in time looking for old friends and lovers and how JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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MUSIC | 27

everyone has moved on,” he says of the album’s core theme that offers a nostalgic glance over his shoulder. Connecting with pieces of the past clearly informed his choice of record label, Polydor, for which he had gained an initial flush of success alongside Bruce Foxton and Rick Buckler as fresh faces recording with The Jam. “We approached Polydor as we really liked what they have been doing lately and they have some great acts. It’s a very different world there now though. It was a little weird this time as everyone was at least 20 years younger than me, whereas when I was there before, it was the other way around and it felt that there were a lot of old men running around telling me what to do!” Discussing yesteryear brings us on to the subject of another key anniversary in 2020. It’s now been 25 years since Weller released Stanley Road, perhaps his most autobiographical recording to date, named after the Woking street in which he grew up. The seminal album contains some of his most

cherished solo material, including tracks such as ‘The Changingman’, ‘Broken Stones’ and ‘You Do Something To Me’. “I can’t believe it’s 25 years old, but I still think it’s a great record that stands up now. It showed the progress made since that first solo album. It was just a really creative time for me and I’ve some really fond memories of that period.” As well as his strong attention to sartorial detail as befitting anyone from the mod revival scene, Weller has been noted for his passion for seeking out new music and offering assistance to likeminded acts. He’s still passionate about touring, and says his regular touring band, including Ocean Colour Scene’s Steve Cradock, are “chomping at the bit” to get back out on the road. However, they’re still at the mercy of conditions as to whether their autumn tour will be permitted. As he notes, the present musical landscape is a very different one from his youth, but what has changed the most? “Where do I start? Well, streaming for one, that has changed everything. Someone told me the other day that a band had a number one with 7,000 sales. But streaming is where it’s at; it’s not something that you can ignore. I could have a mini moan about things like that, but I don’t want to sound like a grumpy old git. I think the main reason I haven’t liked it is that people are not getting paid out of it, particularly up-and-coming bands, meaning it’s getting hard for them to make a living now. “I’ve never believed that music should just be free as some people do. So it’s good to see that vinyl is still out there even if it’s not in great numbers, and I’m going to be releasing my album on cassette as well,” he adds, then signalling it’s time to get back to business in the recording studio, highlighting that he’s lost none of the drive to keep pushing himself after more than four memorable decades in the industry.

On Sunset is out 3 July on Polydor Records JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


28 | BOOKS

“Why did it happen? WHY ARE WE WHERE WE ARE?”

Following the release of young adult novel, Not so Black and White, its authors Sylvia Vetta and Nancy Hunt discuss Covid in Kenya, police brutality, Cecil Rhodes and the teaching of black history SYLVIA VETTA is a freelance writer and speaker. She is author of Brushstrokes in Time, Sculpting the Elephant and now, Not so Black and White (all published by Claret Press). “I couldn’t write with anyone better than Sylvia.” -Nancy Hunt Reading The Book Woman of Troublesome Creek by Kim Michele Richardson Girl, Woman, Other by Bernardine Evaristo The Lies That Bind: Rethinking Identity by Kwame Anthony Appiah

NANCY HUNT is the 13th daughter of a Luhya tribal chief in western Kenya. She moved to the UK and had a successful career as a leadership trainer for Thames Valley Police. She founded the Nasio Trust charity to support orphaned and vulnerable children back in her homeland and established the Exit 7 programme to help young people in the UK who were drifting into antisocial behaviour or had lost direction. In recognition of her achievements transforming young people’s lives, Nancy was awarded the NatWest Most Inspirational Woman 2015 award. “You have to give young people a vision, make them feel they’re worthwhile. Nancy has done that, she’s changed the lives of so many young people.” -Sylvia Vetta Reading Half of a Yellow Sun by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind by William Kamkwamba and Bryan Mealer

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

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round the same time Katie Isbester of Claret Press asked Sylvia Vetta for a novella, Nancy Hunt – Nasio Trust director – asked the Sculpting the Elephant author to write a book with her. “I think she meant non-fiction,” Vetta says over Zoom one evening, but the pair went about penning the requested novella which then became the novel: Not so Black and White. She’s just started talking about the title’s rewrites when Hunt joins the meeting from Kenya, where she frequently visits to support Nasio’s projects and team. She’s been there since February, her 18 March flight back to the UK not possible due to Covid-19. She recalls watching the news in lockdown, not knowing what to do until a friend rang her and said: “Nancy, where there’s a crisis, there’s also an opportunity: you need to get out there and sensitise people.” “The World Health Organization,” she says, “was talking about prevention in relation to handwashing, social distancing and sanitisation – the three things Africa doesn’t have.” People live in congested spaces, water is “a bit of a luxury”, and soap even more so – growing up in Kenya, she was told a bar of soap should last the family a month, so had to be used sparingly. There are also people there with no access to television or radio, she says, who are completely unaware of coronavirus. With 340 community

Photo: Helen Peacocke

Young people go through a lot of challenges and adversity within the system, just because of the colour of their skin.


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health volunteers, she’s been going door-to-door telling over 45,000 people about the symptoms and prevention measures. The conversation turns to Kenya’s 7pm5am curfew in the name of Covid, the police enforcement of which has killed people. “People were caught unawares,” says Hunt. “What’s shocked me is no one’s saying anything about it.” Previously a leadership trainer for Thames Valley Police, Hunt’s experiences have informed her first book, set on a London ‘sink estate’ and in western Kenya, addressing the issues of knife crime, nationality, culture, race and class. It is about the systemic racism young people face, she says, which she’s seen first-hand when accompanying them to court. “The treatment of young people based on their colour would sometimes be absolutely shocking. Young people go through a lot of challenges and adversity within the system, just because of the colour of their skin.” Fury over racism is not only felt by young black people, she points out, saying there were angry white people present when Bristol’s Edward Colston statue was “rightfully” taken down. On that note, we speak in the week protesters gathered outside Oriel College, Oxford, calling for the removal of its tribute to Cecil Rhodes, “an imperialist and a racist”, Vetta

says. Oriel won’t take any notice of her, she continues, “but I would take it down and put it either inside Oriel or Rhodes House. Next to it I would have a plaque with plain, straightforward facts about him. I don’t think we should celebrate him, but he’s the kind of person we should be talking about more. Every single human being in this country is affected by our imperial history, and unless we talk about it, we can’t really understand.” “I like the petitions going round [saying] that we need to teach the history,” says Hunt. “We need to teach history in schools, we need to talk about these things openly and fairly.” Writing Not so Black and White, she explored her family history, her father’s position as a tribal chief under the British empire. “If he was the chief under this empire,” she asks, “but also living in the community, was he treated as someone who betrayed his people? How did they view him? That kind of education we need to be teaching in our schools. Why was Africa colonised? Why were there boundaries and borders? Why did it happen? Why are we where we are?”

Not so Black and White is available as an eBook on Amazon now. Find out more about the Nasio Trust thenasiotrust.org

Courtesy of Nasio Trust

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


30 | BOOKS

MAE AMONG THE STARS by Roda Ahmed, Illustrated by Stasia Burrington

Books

TO ENCOURAGE CONVERSATION ABOUT IDENTITY WITH CHILDREN

Inspired by the life of the first African American woman to travel in space, Mae Jemison, this book will inspire other young girls to reach for the stars, to aspire for the impossible, and to persist with childlike imagination.

It’s vitally important that children see themselves and their familiar culture reflected in books, and that they read (and listen to) stories that broaden their knowledge of identity, providing them with an informed, rich view of the world we live in. JULIÁN IS A MERMAID by Jessica Love While riding the subway home with his nana one day, Julián notices three women spectacularly dressed up. Their hair billows in brilliant hues and their dresses end in fishtails. When Julián gets home, all he can think about is dressing up just like the ladies and making his own fabulous mermaid costume. But what will Nana think about the mess he makes – and even more importantly – how Julián sees himself?

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

THE PROUDEST BLUE by Ibtihaj Muhammad, with S. K. Ali, Illustrated by Hatem Aly With her new backpack and light-up shoes, Faizah knows the first day of school is going to be special. It’s the start of a brand-new year and, best of all, it’s her older sister Asiya’s first day of a hijab – one of beautiful blue fabric, like the ocean waving to the sky. But not everyone sees the hijab as beautiful, and in the face of hurtful, confusing words, Faizah will find new ways to be strong.


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MIXED by Arree Chung

wonderful qualities that make children who they are.

The Blues, Reds and Yellows lived in harmony. Reds were the loudest, Yellows the brightest and Blues the coolest. However, when one of the colours proclaims they are the best, discord breaks out and eventually the colours decide to live in different parts of the city. Then one day a Yellow befriends a Blue and they become inseparable, discovering a world of different possibilities and colours.

MY NAME IS NOT REFUGEE by Kate Milner A young boy discusses the journey he is about to make with his mother. They will leave their town, she explains, and it will be sad but also a little bit exciting. They will have to say goodbye to friends and loved ones, and that will be difficult. They will have to walk and walk and walk, and although they will see many new and interesting things, it will be hard at times too.

LET’S TALK ABOUT RACE by Julius Lester, Illustrated by Karen Barbour

THE BIG UMBRELLA by Amy June Bates and Juniper Bates

In this acclaimed book, the author of the Newbery Honor Book To Be a Slave shares his own story as he explores what makes each of us special. Karen Barbour’s dramatic, vibrant paintings speak to the heart of Lester’s vision, truly a celebration of all of us.

RILEY CAN BE ANYTHING by Davina Hamilton, Illustrated by Elena Reinoso

By the door there is an umbrella. It is big. It is so big that when it starts to rain there is room for everyone underneath. Lush illustrations and simple, lyrical text subtly address themes of inclusion and tolerance in this sweet story that accomplished illustrator Amy June Bates cowrote with her daughter, Juniper, while walking to school together in the rain.

This inspiring rhyming story follows Riley as he discovers some of the wonderful things he can do when he grows up. With the help of his big cousin Joe, Riley is taken on a series of imaginative journeys that allow him to realise he can be anything he wants to be.

LAYLA’S HEAD SCARF by Miriam Cohen, Illustrated by Ronald Himler Layla is a shy new girl in first grade and her classmates wonder why she wears a head scarf. As the school day progresses, the first graders learn about Layla’s culture and help make her feel more at ease in her new school.

ALL THE WAYS TO BE SMART by Davina Bell, Illustrated by Allison Colpoys From the award-winning creators of The Underwater fancy-dress Parade and Under the Love Umbrella comes this joyful ode to all the unique and JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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BOOKS | 33

Photo: Simon Lowery

Steve Hackett: DOING THINGS PIECEMEAL

T

his month sees the publication of A Genesis In My Bed – the long overdue autobiography from former member of Genesis, Steve Hackett. In lockdown the guitar great has been answering fans’ questions, chatting on camera about the music of Genesis and his own solo work. A simple concept, even though the music is at times quite complex. “Music can seem very complicated unless you’re actually playing it,” he points out. “It seems less complicated once you’ve got your fingers around it.” You rehearse privately, he says, then with your band, before hitting a live audience. A tour’s early shows “might be a little shaky” but then things slot into place – “I find towards the end of a tour, people are playing like they really mean it.” His US schedule this year was cut short by Covid – even his flight home was almost cancelled – but he’d never heard his current band play better than in its final couple of gigs. In autumn, they’ll bring Genesis Revisited – Seconds Out + More to Oxford, part of a tour during which “people will get more than they perhaps bargained for.” Before then, he chats about his fellow Genesis bandmates and today’s music charts.

Congratulations on finishing your autobiography – had publishers been asking you to write it for some time? Yes, and it’s taken about 15 years to really knuckle under and do things piecemeal. Writing a book is very different from writing a foreword for a book or the lyrics for a song. It’s the kind of major commitment I would normally put into an album – or a double album. It’s not easy. Were there any bits in particular that you struggled with? I was anxious to be fair about everybody I’ve worked with, talk about their abilities and not just their shortcomings. There’s a danger you might not have a friend left in the world if you just lambast and caricature everybody. It’s important to not be acrimonious and to celebrate the positives. In the main, I haven’t had a problem with that.

Genesis was a bit like a fiveway marriage

It’s called A Genesis In My Bed, is that in any way a reference to the fact when you’re in a band you live in each other’s pockets, as if you’re in bed together? It’s actually not – you have to read the book to realise why I’ve given it that title. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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BOOKS | 35

But when you are in a band like Genesis, yes, it is a bit like a five-way marriage. We were spending more time together than a lot of people do with their wives and husbands. A ménage à cinq, rather than à trois. Did you speak to the other members while writing the book? I have done over time. As I say, it started 15 years ago and I’ve met them several times since then. But I didn’t say to anyone, ‘do you mind if I say this?’ or ‘don’t say that?’ I haven’t pulled my punches in that way. I am basically honest about everyone – everyone had strong points.I’m certainly not dismissive, it’s not the kind of autobiography where I say I did everything – at the same time, I don’t say I did nothing. You’re from a different sort of background to other Genesis members, aren’t you? The guys in the band came from privileged backgrounds; the Charterhouse connection, Phil [Collins] the child prodigy-cum-star-cumsinger-dancer – performing in Oliver!. But I think at a public school, you are designed to be prime minister or the like and nothing less is expected of you. You’re required to obey on

one level but at the same time learn to give orders at a very early age. The danger is you remain in the foetal stage sociologically. I don’t envy their backgrounds, I think mine was more balanced – perhaps more balanced than Phil’s. I did five years of jobs once I left grammar school, and came into contact with people from all walks of life. It was important to mix freely with both ends of society. They’ve both got something to say, they’re both right – the book goes into that in great detail. What do you make of the music in the charts right now? A lot of the time I’m quite disappointed in contemporary music. So much of it sounds like people have just chained up a sequence, gone off and made a cup of tea, come back and changed the details slightly. Whereas when I heard ‘I Am the Walrus’ – I didn’t know who it was when I first heard it on the radio – I thought ‘that’s marvellously detailed, it sounds more like a film, I like that.’ There were cartoons in there, all sorts of stuff. That level of surprise in the charts now? I think you have to look outside.

A Genesis In My Bed is out 24 July (Wymer Publishing). Steve Hackett – Genesis Revisited bring Seconds Out + More to New Theatre Oxford 18 November.

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FOOD & DRINK | 37

Cooking with Chums To mark International Day of Friendship (30 July), why not get together with your nearest and dearest – sticking to social distancing rules, of course – to create these tasty treats courtesy of Lizi’s and Miranda Gore Browne.

Milk Chocolate, Honey & Apricot Flapjacks

There is something so comforting about a flapjack. This version, packed with seedy, nutty granola, speckled with apricots and topped with a scrumptious layer of milk chocolate, will get everyone chomping and chatting!

INGREDIENTS • 100g butter (or margarine) • 50g sugar (use brown or demerara if you have it) • 2 tbsp of honey (or golden/maple syrup) • 300g of Lizi’s Original Granola • Pinch of salt • 75g chopped apricots and 50g sultanas (optional), or add a grated apple • 150g milk chocolate chips or a roughly chopped chocolate bar

METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Put the butter, sugar and honey into a saucepan and melt. 3. Put the granola, apricots and sultanas into a large bowl. 4. Pour the melted butter and sugar mixture onto the dry ingredients and stir well to combine. 5. Line a tin with non-stick baking paper. 6. Scrape the mixture into the tin and press down gently with the back of a spoon. 7. Put into the preheated oven and bake for 15 minutes. 8. Lift carefully out of the oven and leave to cool completely in the tin. 9. Melt the chocolate in short bursts in the microwave or a

heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Once the flapjack is completely cold, spread with the melted chocolate and pop in the fridge to set for about an hour before cutting into fingers. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


38 | FOOD & DRINK

High Protein Chocolate Power Bars (vegan)

Power bars are simple to make, require no baking and are a great pre- or post-workout snack for all ages. Keep a stash in the fridge and reward yourself when you need a pick-me-up, or pop them into your pocket to take with you on your outdoor exercise.

INGREDIENTS • 200g mixture of sultanas, prunes or dried fruit • 180g Lizi’s High Protein Granola • 3 tbsp of cocoa powder mixed with 3 tbsp of boiling water • 4 tbsp of almond butter or peanut butter • 3 tbsp of desiccated coconut • 1 tbsp of oil – coconut, rapeseed, sunflower or olive • 1 tbsp of agave nectar • Pinch of salt

METHOD 1. Blitz the dried fruit mixture in a food processor or blender. If they are very dry, add 1 tbsp of water (and only add two tbsp to the cocoa). 2. Mix the cocoa powder with the boiling water in a mug. 3. O nce the dried fruit mixture is sticky and smooth, add all of the other ingredients and blitz again. 4. Line a baking tin with non-stick baking paper. 5. S crape in the mixture and press down very firmly. You will need to use your fingers to really push it down. 6. Use your fingertips to press about 20g of Lizi’s High Protein Granola on top. 7. Chill for 2-3 hours, or ideally overnight. se a large, sharp knife and slice into pieces. Wrap a few individual bars in 8. U non-stick baking paper so you can take them with you on a run! Store in the fridge.

Lizi’s Breakfast Range is available from Waitrose, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Ocado, Asda, Morrisons, Whole Foods, Co-op, Booths and all good health stores. lizis.co.uk

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020


FOOD & DRINK | 39

Renée Watson

THE BIG BANG If your lockdown has been anything like mine it looks a bit like this: home school, eat, drink, work, work, eat, home school and drink, watch some telly, eat a bit more… drink a bit more and look at all the people running and cycling with a mixture of envy and loathing. This is clearly a recipe for waistline disaster so I’ve developed a plan to solve this problem with nothing more than a little wrist action and some science. Here’s my top-secret tip: forget calorie counting and get cold. That’s right people, new research shows that dropping the temperature will help you drop pounds. With as little as a one-degree reduction in your living room temperature, you could increase your metabolic rate. Forget fad diets and spending loads of money on so-called fat burning pills, get your kit off and chill. The science behind this cool revelation comes down to the two types of fat you have in your body. White fat, the stuff that makes your trousers too tight and is designed to store energy. The other type of fat is brown fat that does the opposite – a bit like a wood fired stove, they are fat-fuelled machines that burn energy to heat you up. Brown fat is the stuff that makes you shiver and it is the act of shivering that heats you up. We have long thought that humans can’t generate brown fat but in fact it seems we can. And we do it when we are in an environment that is just a little cooler than the balmy 19 degrees the average person finds to be comfortable room temperature. Interestingly, increasing production of brown fat cells seems to be reliant on the immune system rather than the brain. A particular type of immune cell called a macrophage can cause the browning of a white fat cell, therefore converting it from a chubby fat storage machine to that raging fat-burning stove. Dr Ajay Chawla, from UC San Francisco, who has been leading the research said that in the mice they tested they saw calorie burning equivalent to about 30 minutes of exercise per day. Humans are not expected to benefit to quite that extent but Dr Chawla suggests that even an increase in metabolism of a few percent would make a big difference. The ideal temperature for this weight loss wonder is thought to be around 17.2 degrees centigrade, although tests in humans will be the only way to know how to make the most of the chill. Ok, so in reality, unfortunately this doesn’t mean I can eat ice cream straight from the tub, drink an entire bottle of bubbly and binge-watch Netflix and still lose weight. I just like to think of it as freebie weight loss on top of eating a reasonably healthy diet and doing regular exercise. Now then, where are my trainers?

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


40 | GARDENS

Š Pete Seaward

Blenheim Palace SEVENTY YEARS OF VISITORS

Home to the Spencer-Churchill family for over 300 years, Blenheim Palace and Parkland, deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, should be on your list of must-see places during 2020. Regular visitors, perhaps holding an annual pass, will know that the Park’s stunning scenery changes daily with different light and seasons, and always provides awe-inspiring views. Photos courtesy of Blenheim Palace 2020

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020


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© Pete Seaward

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uilt on land gifted by Queen Anne to John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, in celebration of his military triumphs against the French and Bavarians culminating in the Battle of Blenheim in 1704, the Park already had a colourful past. Formerly a deer park in the reign of Henry I, the site of the original Manor – which is commemorated by a simple stone memorial – was destroyed by Cromwell’s troops during the Civil War in 1651. The up-and-coming architect John Vanbrugh was commissioned in 1705 to design Blenheim Palace. As part of Vanbrugh’s plans, he conceived a disproportionately grand bridge, with 30 rooms, to go over the three trickling tributaries of the River Glyme. He also commissioned Henry Wise to create a military garden with parterres and very intricate plantings on what is now the South Lawn. However, when 50 years later Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown was appointed by the 4th Duke of Marlborough, these gardens were removed and grassed over. Brown’s vision was to naturalise and enhance the landscape into an English landscape garden scheme. As part of that, he dammed the River Glyme, digging out a huge ornamental lake that flooded the lower stories and rooms of Vanbrugh’s bridge. He also created a series of cascades, thus creating the landscape with which we are now familiar. When the 9th Duke of Marlborough married an American railroad heiress, Consuelo Vanderbilt at the end of the 19th century, the Churchill family had a much-needed injection

of cash. In the early 1920s, the Duke appointed French architect Achille Duchêne to replace gloomy Victorian shrubberies either side of the building with the Italian Garden and Water Terraces. As Blenheim Palace, the only non-royal, non-episcopal palace in England, celebrates its 70th year of opening its doors to the public, we took the chance of meeting up with Blenheim’s head gardener Hilary Wood, to find out what is required to keep the gardens looking so magnificent and what her boss, the Duke of Marlborough, expects from his team of gardeners. I have been working at Blenheim since 1981 and feel privileged that I am able to ensure the work commissioned by the 11th Duke of Marlborough flourishes and provides so much pleasure to the 700,000 visitors we have each year. With a small team of 11 full-time staff, plus six part-timers, we look after 120 acres of gardens as well as the more manicured areas of grassland within the Park, mainly surrounding the Palace. During the growing season we have over 12 miles of grass verge to mow each week and from the middle of June a team of gardeners take between four and six weeks to clip the box hedges around the Italian Garden and Water Terraces. In September, they turn their attention to the yew hedges. We also have seasonal planting in large locally made pots and all our bedding is grown in our own greenhouses. We are also responsible for looking after the Secret Garden; formerly the Private Garden, JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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this was a private area where the 10th Duke of Marlborough could retreat from visitors who came to visit the Palace and grounds. However, to celebrate Blenheim’s tercentenary, the 11th Duke of Marlborough redesigned the Secret Garden and it was opened to the public for the first time in May 2004 by the Duke’s sister Lady Rosemary Muir. The area covers three acres and provides a place of quiet contemplation with planting comprising ornamental trees, shrubs and perennials. To commemorate the life of Sir Winston Churchill, born at the Palace in 1874, the 11th Duke worked with landscape architect Kim Wilkie to create the Churchill Memorial Garden. With over 20 stone plaques set in a 91-metre winding pathway denoting Churchill’s life span, the garden highlights special times in his life ending with his burial at Bladon Church in 1965. Sadly the 11th Duke didn’t live to see its fruition. The spectacular Rose Garden has over 1,800 hybrid teas and climbing roses, underplanted with Nepeta (cat mint). Many of the roses were chosen by the 11th Duke for their fragrance rather than their disease resistance and include Troika, Peace, Silver Jubilee, Blessings, Iceberg, City of Belfast and Royal William. We prune the roses twice a year: November to remove the straggly branches and in February/March to take them lower. Constant deadheading is required throughout the flowering season. Our walled garden, just behind the Pleasure Gardens, Butterfly House and Lavender Garden is closed to the public. However, this 300-year-old kitchen garden still produces a wide range of fruit, vegetables and herbs used in the Palace’s kitchens. Originally, the hollow walls would have been heated with warm smoke

flowing through them enabling the gardeners of yesteryear to grow peaches, nectarines and figs more easily than we can nowadays. The external north facing walls are home to our Morello cooking cherries and inside the walled garden we have orchards of eight different varieties of apple, including the Blenheim Orange, Comice and Conference pears, and a range of soft fruit. One of our glasshouses is home to 200-year-old grapevines that require a lot of attention; they are pruned in the winter and to ensure they are not infected with mealybugs, the bark is scrapped off and tar-washed before the vines spring back into growth. We grow two varieties of award-winning table grapes: a black cultivar Madresfield Court and white cultivar Muscat Alexandria, both of which we show at the RHS Autumn Fruit and Vegetable Competition. Our other glasshouse is where we grow fuchsia and pelargonium cuttings and orchids for the private apartments in the Palace. Our greenhouses are heated by biomass with traditional gas heating only used in an emergency. I do hope that you will be inspired to come and spend some time walking through the gardens and around the Park during the coming months and see just what an incredible place Blenheim is.

The Park and Gardens are now open. The Palace remains closed. To ensure visitors’ safety, numbers are being limited. Please visit blenheimpalace. com for up-to-date information. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Hidcote Manor Garden Hazel Payne

AND THE MAN WHO CREATED IT

Lawrence Johnston

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

There is one American garden designer who started creating a truly inspirational garden in 1907, that is still of relevance to many modern-day gardeners and designers, with the garden he created over 100 years ago visited by 170,000 people per year on average.

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idcote Manor, located in the small hamlet of Hidcote Bartrim, just 2.75 miles from Chipping Campden in the heart of the Cotswolds, was the home of Lawrence Waterbury Johnston and his mother Mrs Gertrude Winthrop from 1907 until Johnston handed over the property and gardens to the National Trust in 1948. Without any formal horticultural training, Johnston spent 40 years creating a garden that became one of the bestknown and most significant British Arts and Crafts inspired gardens. When he wanted to hand over the property to the National Trust, in order to retire to his property at Menton on the French Riviera, the National Trust and the Royal Horticultural Society created the Gardens Fund to save noteworthy gardens, Hidcote being the first to be cared for under this scheme. When Johnston and his mother moved into Hidcote Manor in 1907, they had acquired a ‘valuable freehold farm comprising 287 acres’

sold with a ‘very substantial and picturesque farmhouse’ for the sum of £7,200. At that stage, the garden comprised of lawns with a large kitchen garden and provided 36-year-old Johnston (who had become a naturalised British citizen and followed a military career) with a blank canvas. He was already noted for his gardening abilities having been elected a Fellow of the RHS in 1904, and in 1911 he received an award of merit from the RHS for the Hidcote strain of Primula pulverulenta. With only limited information relating to the development of the garden, it is possible that in the early stages of its redesign, Johnston’s mother had the greatest influence. She certainly would have held the purse strings. Inspired by the work of artists and garden designers Thomas Mawson, Alfred Parsons and Gertrude Jekyll, by 1914 Johnston had created the first stages of the garden’s landscaping, creating a series of ‘garden rooms’. Initially the garden rooms followed the Arts and


GARDENS | 45

Crafts cottagey quality: old-fashioned flowers, topiary, natural materials. Some years later, as he developed the second stage of the garden, Johnston became influenced by the design of the gardens in France and Italy which had firm architectural lines. All the rooms contained a wide variety of plants, some of which he had brought back from plant hunting expeditions such as the one he went on in 1927 following the death of his mother the previous year. Spending four months, he travelled to South Africa, bringing back a wide selection of plants. The following year, he went to Kenya from where he brought back a large-flower hypericum from Mount Kilimanjaro – possibly the one now known as Hypericum ‘Hidcote’. By the late 1920s, Johnston had completed the final phase of the garden. He had to work with the slightly peculiar lie of the land. Having carefully planned the areas in which to contain the plants, Johnston judiciously selected rare trees, shrubs and perennials to create carefully planned planting schemes. There are several plants which are widely used in modern-day gardens that have links with Hidcote: Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ and Penstemon ‘Hidcote Pink’ to name but two. Each of Hidcote’s outdoor rooms had different themes and characteristics; he separated the gardens using box hedges, hornbeam, yew and Cotswold stone walls. He recognised the benefit of linking some of the rooms to create vistas, he furnished others using topiary. He used water, building ponds and fountains. In 1919 Gertrude purchased additional land, enabling the garden to be extended. By the 1920s he had created 10 acres of gardens, employing about ten full-time gardeners. In total there are 28 garden rooms for visitors to enjoy at Hidcote. Over the years, the National Trust has worked hard to maintain the gardens as created by Johnston. When it comes to planting at Hidcote, they are not however necessarily restricted to varieties of plants that would have been available in his day. Today, Hidcote’s head gardener, Lottie Allen, who heads up a team of 11 permanent gardeners and dedicated volunteers, faces many challenges associated with creating a beautiful garden that will attract visitors each year. “The challenges are many and varied, from working around inclement weather and busy visitor numbers each day, to managing the size and scale of plants and the longer-term evidence of a changing climate where stressed plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases. On a personal note, my challenge will always be finding a balance between the strategic planning of the garden’s future and being outside, getting my hands dirty!

“Hidcote is the product of one man’s horticultural genius. Johnston spent his life designing Hidcote (and later Serre de la Madone, France) and wasn’t afraid to experiment, change designs, or not conform to current planting fashions. In July 2019 we commissioned a Conservation Management Plan which is helping to identify Johnston’s intention through old photos and records from Johnston’s visiting horticultural friends in Hidcote’s heyday. No garden could be preserved in aspic; the joy of a garden is how it evolves from season to season and year to year. At Hidcote, Johnston was continually improving the planting, perhaps even from day to day, and as skilled gardeners, our mission will be to use Johnston’s planting philosophy and structure of the garden to showcase the best plant varieties and develop a garden that plays on all our senses.” Having only started to work at Hidcote in September 2019, Lottie is “keen to spend a year getting to know the garden and how the seasons unfold. There are lots of tasks already on my to-do list and once I have the facts as well as the Conservation Management Plan to hand, I will prioritise our approach for the next five to ten years. It’s an exciting time for Hidcote and I’m looking forward to what happens next. I love the variety of my job; every day is different, and everyone is passionate about working for the National Trust and what it represents. The balance of providing access to the garden whilst also conserving its integrity is my key motivation. Each day is pretty rewarding – whether it is a day spent with ear defenders on and a hedge cutter running, or a meeting with colleagues to evaluate events in the garden and what we might plan next. Hidcote has plans to hold an exhibition with Kaffe Fassett in the autumn of 2020, a health and wellbeing exhibition and programme and some great events involving their garden team.

At the time of writing, and in line with government guidance, National Trust is starting to reopen a small number of gardens and parklands in England and Northern Ireland through advanced booking. Check nationaltrust.org.uk/ hidcote for the latest news.

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


NICHOLSONS

46 | XXXXXXX

Garden Design and Construction

Design, precision and hard work. Contact Nicholsons to design and build your garden. OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

Visit our website to find out more

www.nicholsonsgb.com


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Gardens Add Value to Our Lives During the weeks of lockdown, many people have spent their time redecorating their indoor space but when it comes to re-planning their garden, this is a greater challenge for some. Any outdoor space, whatever its size, is a wonderful place of escape even if you are not a keen gardener. When the weather is nice and we have not been able to lead our normal lives – going to work, meeting up with friends, shopping for things other than essential food items – venturing outside into a safe, secure garden can be wonderful.

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hen buying a property, most people focus on the interior – but the garden is another valuable room in the property. Obviously having a garden designed and properly constructed is not a cheap project. However, it can add as much value to your property as having a new kitchen installed or carrying out major internal modifications. A beautiful garden also makes the property look more appealing when it comes to selling. We spoke with Liz Nicholson from the award-winning landscaping company Nicholsons, based at North Aston near Bicester. This Oxfordshire garden design practice has enjoyed over 20 years designing local garden landscapes from Edwardian townhouses to rambling Cotswold farmhouses. The company offers a complete design, build and maintenance package and can also supply a superb range of plants, including well established trees and shrubs for an instant effect. Liz considers the many reasons why gardens are so important in our lives.

We spend a considerable amount of time indoors and looking out to a beautiful well designed space is uplifting. Carefully planned and well cared for front gardens add to the property’s kerb appeal when attracting potential buyers. If your view of your neighbour’s garden is not appealing, then designing an effective garden layout can help screen the less celebrated views and open up stunning vistas to give a generous sense of space. Gardening is a wonderful way to get fit. Many people drive to gyms to burn the calories and tone the muscles. However, you only need to step outside and care for your garden to do just that. Weeding and cultivating your garden can burn around 170 calories in half an hour and digging can shift around 594 calories in half an hour. You will also exercise your quadriceps, hamstrings and calf muscles, tighten your buttocks and give your biceps, triceps and trunk muscles a workout too. You will be outdoors in the fresh air, absorbing vitamin D and even in the winter, an hour’s gardening can help prevent seasonal affective disorder (SAD). Take time to walk around the garden and enjoy what JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Mother Nature has to offer. Go out and listen to the birds in the early morning, cup of coffee in hand, and look at the changes the seasons bring. Stop for a few minutes and unwind in your outdoor space. Take time in the evening to stargaze. The garden at night offers the most magical of spaces. Turn the lights off and gaze up into the sky… it certainly puts the day to day into perspective and while meditation is not my strong suit – I am a nervous giggler – stargazing comes pretty close. Your garden can provide an extra room giving you an additional kitchen, outdoor dining space, a summer lounge area, even an outdoor shower. I once worked for an 80-year-old gentleman who insisted on building a shower (cold water only) on his terrace – he showered every day and was the healthiest octogenarian I knew (we did include tall screening hedges in the design). Garden rooms have a holiday feeling, whether you dream of an ancient shepherd’s hut, Swedish sauna or sleek garden office, the extra space and sense of calm is inescapable. A professional garden designer will get to understand your likes and dislikes, whilst recognising the style of your property. We can ensure that the outdoor space you have created is right for you. Every garden room is unique, and gardens offer a wonderful opportunity for us to express our style in terms of architecture, materials and plants. We adorn our homes with paintings and sculptures – our gardens can also be adorned with art as well as over 3,000 plant species. A stunning water feature can add an extra dimension to your garden and will help screen noise pollution too. Even if you only have a small outdoor space, you can still grow your own herbs and vegetables in pots, window boxes and interplanted in your garden borders. Being able to pick something you have grown yourself which is fresh and tasty is very satisfying. Getting children involved in sowing seeds and caring for plants gives them great satisfaction too. Help reduce carbon emissions. Our gardens are a massive source of carbon capture, rain harvesting, biodiversity and habitat enrichment. In today’s spiralling world, any of us who are lucky enough to own land can enjoy our precious custody. Add value to your life as well as to your property. Whilst we possibly do focus more on the house when buying a home, we would all agree that a well-designed and well laid out garden makes a house into a home. At Nicholsons we celebrate holistic design of house and garden and work very closely with our clients to deliver the best design outcomes.

Every garden room is unique, and gardens offer a wonderful opportunity for us to express our style in terms of architecture, materials and plants. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Conservation on the River Thame

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here has been much ongoing conservation work on the River Thame, coordinated by the River Thame Conservation Trust with support from land and wildlife experts. James Gillies tells us about how this wildlife conservation project has progressed and the aim of its latest phase... This week I’ve been working alongside the River Thame Conservation Trust to restore some of the old river channels on an island, formed where the River Thame splits to feed an old mill; with the millstream and race on one side and the main river on the other. The objective of this phase of the River Thame Conservation Trust’s project was to restore some old and create new shallow backwaters from the main river. These backwaters are really important to the wildlife of the river as this is where fish fry (baby fish) can grow in shallow warm water away from larger predatory fish. This was a three-day project and at the beginning of day three, there were already fry in the new channels. There is a tendency to dig deep when creating ponds and channels, but without good reason, this is often a mistake. Wildlife likes varying depths of water and especially long shallow slopes into the deep water (referred to as drawdown zones) which are ideal for many species of plant and animal. I used a drone – I’m a commercial drone pilot – to photograph the selected area beforehand, then produced maps showing ground levels

and height differences to help select the perfect location for digging the channels. On completion we took photographs as a record of works; photos will then be taken annually from a fixed height and point (georeferenced) to monitor the site’s development. Works within a floodplain and within 8m of a main river usually need permission from the Environment Agency. Generally when working on these kinds of sites, dug out spoil (soil etc.) must be removed from the site and off the floodplain – this is likely to significantly increase cost. However, if you have a watercourse within your land and you think the benefits for wildlife could be increased, it is worth having a chat with a local land management specialist who can point you in the direction of whether or not there is funding available for this type of conservation or habitat creation work.

I used a drone – I’m a commercial drone pilot – to photograph the selected area beforehand

James Gillies has many years of experience in managing and creating wildlife habitats. In 2018 he launched his hugely successful meadow project which created a patchwork of habitats across the UK, from Scotland to the South Coast. Water and wetlands (landscape with open water and wet ground) form one of James’ three pillars for wildlife enhancement, the other two are woodlands and wildflowers. james-gillies.com There is often funding available to either fully or partly fund conservation work on farms and managed land, through a myriad of schemes available: some government, some charity and some corporate. To discuss whether your project could be subject to a funding boost contact james@james-gillies.com JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Outside-Inside Spaces

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ony and Yolande Wyer’s five-sided garden studio has been what the architects describe as “a godsend” during lockdown. It houses a small toilet, sinks, storage, worktops, plus various pieces of furniture and computers to run a small art studio and office. Yolande, a painter and Sunningwell School of Art student, calls it “a very outside-inside space. You pull back the doors and you’re painting in the garden. You don’t feel you’re in a little shed or tiny study, but you’ve still got the closure and all your equipment immediately behind you.” The studio (also used for Pilates and as a greenhouse) gives them space from each other too, she adds. “It’s also good for your wellbeing because it’s got nice views, straight onto our garden and then the field behind.” A builder completed the project in his downtime between other jobs, Tony tells us from their Garsington home, beginning last year in late July and finishing just before lockdown. A team of three working solidly on the construction, says Yolande, would take 12-16 weeks. Tony’s research into “off the peg” studios has revealed costs of £1,500 per square metre, whereas their bespoke structure (with drainage, ample electrics and internet) works out at £1,300 per square metre. “Our design costs were obviously negligible,” he points out, “because we’re architects.” What should people without architectural

prowess do though, if they want something like this for their outdoor space? “The simple answer is hire an architect,” he says. A designer could be key in the “crucial” element of orientation, whether that’s to a particular view or where there’s best exposure to the sun. They know of somebody who purchased an off the shelf studio for £13,000, with “no insolation, no electrics, no running water, nothing. With a designer, you can get a lot more for your money.”

Suppliers Vastern Timber Wootton Bassett Showroom, Swindon SN4 7PD Studley Sawmills, Calne SN11 9NH vastern.co.uk Minoli Oxford Showroom, Transport Way, Cowley OX4 6LX minoli.co.uk Midland Aluminium 21st Century Trade Centre, Stafford Road, Knightley ST20 0JR midlandaluminium.co.uk Howdens howdens.com

wyerarchitecture.co.uk | yolande@wyerarchitecture.co.uk | tony@wyerarchitecture.co.uk JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


Luxury Holiday Rentals at Glenmor Make yourselves at home in the heart of Gleneagles The Gleneagles experience is one of a kind – you can now enjoy it from the comfort of a Glenmor luxury holiday home, located in the heart of Gleneagles. On your stay you can enjoy complimentary golf for one person, plus access to all of the leisure, dining and pursuits of the 5 star estate. A main season 2 bedroom rental starts from £3,100 for 7 nights

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Jinja ATTRACTIVELY LUSH, ADRENALINE RUSH PETER HOLTHUSEN

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ess than 17 years ago, tourism activity on the Nile north of Jinja was limited to a peaceful and rather obscure picnic site at the Bujagali Falls – a series of impressive rapids about 10km (6 miles) downriver of the source of the Nile – visited by a handful of travellers annually. Today, the eastern bank of the Nile between Jinja and Bujagali has developed into a world-class adventure-tourism centre, serviced by four bustling backpacker facilities, and an upmarket tented camp and hotel. This is because the 50km (31-mile) stretch of the Nile north of Jinja is now a mecca for white water rafting, river surfing, kayaking, bungee jumping, jet boat riding and quad biking. All the rapids at the Bujagali Falls are named to heighten the anticipation, for instance: Total Gunga, Silverback, Rib Cage and Surf City. Jinja would probably be a fairly nondescript town if it were not for its location. It is at the head of the Napoleon Gulf, on the northern edge of Lake Victoria, and lies on the east bank

of the Victoria Nile. The town is perhaps best known for being the source of the Nile. Even as it leaves the lake, it is a surprisingly large river and it is a bit spooky to think of it wandering north for 4,000 miles until it reaches the Mediterranean Sea. Jinja lies in south-eastern Uganda, approximately 87km (54 miles) by road, east of Kampala, the capital. An informal European settlement was founded there in 1900, when the rocky waterfall was selected as the most suitable place for the telegraph line to Kampala to cross the Nile. Before 1900, Jinja was a small fishing village that benefited from being located on the long-distance trade routes. Jinja’s rapid emergence as a pivotal commercial centre and international transport hub was encouraged by the completion of the railway line from Mombasa, 1,400km (900 miles) away, to the Kenyan lake port of Kisumu, and the introduction of a connecting ferry service. Cotton packing, nearby sugar estates, and railway access all enabled Jinja to grow in size.

The Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the source of the Nile, is the launching point for a commercial white water rafting route that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world.

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By 1906, a street pattern had been laid out, and Indian traders moved in establishing a small community in 1910. The Indians were Catholic Christians and English-speaking and originated in the former Portuguese colony of Goa on the west coast of India. The local economy was further boosted by the successful introduction of cotton as a cash crop for export, and by the construction of a railway line north to Namasagali in 1912. Further growth took place in 1928 when BritishAmerican Tobacco Uganda (BATU) established a tobacco processing factory in Jinja. In 1954, with the opening of the Owen Falls Dam, (later renamed Nalubaale Power Station), the Ripon Falls were submerged. Most of the ‘flat rocks’ that gave the area its name disappeared under the water as well. However, the dam meant that Jinja enjoyed clean, potable water on tap and an unwavering electricity supply throughout the 1960s. Jinja’s proximity to this reliable source of cheap electricity proved attractive to industry, and several companies, including the Manchester-based Calico Printers’ Association, with the Uganda Development Corporation (UDC), constructed a large textile mill (Nyanza Textile Industries Limited), known locally as ‘Nytil’. By 1973 the company employed about 3,000 people and exclusively used Uganda cotton to spin, weave, and dye or print, to sell via its own retail chain, Lebel, throughout Uganda and Kenya. As Jinja grew, new roads were constructed, serving the many who lived outside the town. Each morning in the 1960s there would be a line of two-wheel traffic heading for the sokoni (marketplace) with cargoes of bananas or sacks of charcoal. During this period, Jinja, like other towns in Uganda, was subtly segregated. The white population was quite small and tended to live in mixed European/ Asian (East Indian) neighbourhoods separated from African neighbourhoods. The majority of the European/Asian areas were generally by the

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

lakeside with houses affording large gardens. Although Europeans and Asians lived here in close proximity, the facilities of the nearby Jinja Club – golf, tennis, squash, a swimming pool, the Sailing Club, Nile Rugby Club and Nile Football Club – were mainly enjoyed by Europeans. Jinja suffered badly during the Amin years and subsequent periods of economic and political turmoil, but a more recent economic upswing has been mirrored by the emergence of the river corridor as a major tourism centre in the region, with the emphasis strongly on adrenalineorientated activities. The Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the source of the Nile, is the launching point for a commercial white water rafting route that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world, passing through three heart-stopping grade five rapids in one day. There are several companies offering a variety of itineraries without compromise. Foremost among them is Adrift, who enjoy an unparalleled worldwide reputation for safety and excellence. They are Uganda’s premier adventure company offering white water rafting, bungee jumping, jet boating, kayaking and river surfing. With over 28 years of adventure experience, they have enjoyed the custom of Prince William, Mika Häkkinen, Geri Horner, Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman. A typical itinerary would include a transfer from your hotel at Jinja where the mighty Nile begins its journey to the Mediterranean Sea. After a full safety demonstration, you will then enjoy a half-day of white water rafting. With lots of good rapids, including the mighty Itanda (the bad place) and a beautiful river with spectacular flora and fauna, there are some

Jinja has become known as the adventure sports capital of East Africa, for the river here has several grade five rapids including the mighty Itanda (the bad place), which offer exhilarating white water rafting on a par with the worldrenowned Zambezi Gorge below Victoria Falls.

Top: Kayaking and river surfing are just some of the adventure sports that can be experienced on the rapids near Jinja, while playing chicken with riverine rocks.

Left: The actual ‘source of the Nile’ is marked by a popular but uninspiring plaque, all finished in garish yellow thanks to the official sponsorship of Uganda Breweries’ Bell Lager.


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very exciting sections with space between to lay back and float along taking in the scenery and enjoying the wildlife, particularly the many species of birds to be found here. Two kilometres upstream beside the Jinja Nile Resort is the Nile High Camp which has a 44-metre bungee jump. Here, intrepid jumpers leap from a 12-metre cantilevered steel structure on top of a towering cliff above the Nile. If you want an extra adrenaline rush, there is the option of being dipped into the river on a longer bungee. Often performing at this site is the Ugandan Acrobatic, Jeremiah Bazale. The latest feather in Adrift’s sweaty, adrenalinesoaked cap is Uganda’s first jet boat, Wild Nile Jet, a 12-seater beast powered by a 450-horsepower Chevrolet engine and capable of speeds of over 90kph (60mph). The 30-minute assault on the river won’t reduce your carbon footprint, but it is an amazing white knuckle ride, racing up and down minor rapids, throwing 360° spins and playing chicken with riverine rocks, while kayaking, river surfing and quad biking trips are available for those seeking solitude in a magical setting. Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia can be found on the menus of many of Kampala’s

finest restaurants. The actual ‘source of the Nile’ is marked by a popular but uninspiring plaque, all finished in garish yellow thanks to the official sponsorship of Uganda Breweries’ Bell Lager. But if you are seeking to explore the natural wonders of the area, the nearby Mabira Forest Reserve, which straddles the Kampala-Jinja road about 20km (12 miles) west of Jinja, is one of the largest forest areas in Central Uganda. This popular nature park hosts grasslands, forested valleys and an astonishing variety of bird and monkey species. Travelling to Jinja by air is easiest through Entebbe International Airport, 40km (24 miles) south of Kampala or through the Kenyan capital Nairobi, which is the main air travel hub of East Africa and offers frequent bus connections to Jinja. A visit to this enchanting town on the shores of Africa’s largest lake will not disappoint you. It is the human psyche that demands we discover and explore. If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush amidst some of the most spectacular scenery in Uganda, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to Jinja.

Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia can be found on the menus of many of Kampala’s finest restaurants.

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


Virtually Outstanding Outstanding Face-to-Face Meet the Headmaster on Zoom www.cccs.org.uk | registrar@cccs.org.uk

Small Class Sizes • Woodland School • After School Club Join our Reception in September 2020 “Children in the EYFS have high regard for, and a heightened awareness of, their natural surroundings.” ISI Report


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Enabling Environments CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL SCHOOL NURSERY’S APPROACH TO LEARNING

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t Christ Church Cathedral School Nursery we believe that it is through play that young children engage and interact with the world around them. Through play they discover who they are. Their physical development, and cognitive and language skills develop alongside their imagination, concentration, self-confidence and sociability. We follow the Montessori philosophy and approach to learning, combined with other more traditional methods of teaching. Through her scientific, observational approach and deep respect for the potential of each child, the Italian physician and educator Dr Maria Montessori (1870-1952) developed a unique method of education which enhances the child’s natural desire to learn about their environment. She discovered that a well-planned environment ensures a structured route for young children to play and progress robustly through the stepping stones of all areas of learning. We offer art in many forms: music, yoga, cookery, and play materials that allow the children to express

their own creative outlook. Painting pictures, colouring and mark-making - regardless of how accurately the work appears - are invaluable in helping to strengthen the pincer/pencil grip in preparation for writing. Through art, children learn to value their own uniqueness and to appreciate the individuality of others. Young children like to experiment and create just for sheer joy. A three- to four-year-old artist may ‘destroy’ what an adult perceives as a ‘lovely’ creation as they try out new ideas. That is fine! The creative process is what matters, not the finished product. We must not interfere with a child’s masterpiece; rather, we must celebrate their delight and effort in creating it. Our extra-curricular programme is forever changing in response to the pupils’ individual needs and interests, and is not confined to the classroom. At our Woodland School, in Christ Church Meadow, the children have a hands-on sensory learning experience in a natural environment. We also take advantage of our location in the centre of Oxford, visiting the many museums, libraries, the Castle, and

cafes, as well as enjoying brass rubbing in the Cathedral and, recently, a dress rehearsal for an orchestral concert. At Christ Church Cathedral School Nursery we foster and encourage the children to be independent, to love learning, and to understand their meaningful place in the happy community that is Christ Church Cathedral School.

Nicky English Head of Nursery Christ Church Cathedral School JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


CREATING MEMORIES YOUR WEDDING DAY AT STOKE PARK

FACILITIES INCLUDE: - 300 Acres of glorious parkland and lakes - 49 Luxury Bedrooms - 8 Fully Licensed rooms and beautiful Southern Terrace for civil ceremonies - Dining facilities for up to 146 guests - Award winning Health & Beauty Spa Please contact our Wedding Co-ordinator on 01753 717188 or weddings@stokepark.com Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com


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Back Garden Beach

The phrase ‘make virtue of necessity’ was first used in English language by Chaucer in The Knight’s Tale. Let’s all make like Eng-lit grads and determine to revel in outdoor living, bringing beach chic to the backyard. And, whilst we’re at it, let’s do it in style.

Jumpsuit £49.99, zara.com JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Forlani’s Boho Betty beaded earrings are made in sterling silver and encrusted with sparkling zirconia stones to catch the light. £60, spiga.com

Turn summer dressing fantasy into reality with this kaftanstyled Ochre Earth dress. A Perfect Nomad Wild Heart Dress £250, youngbritishdesigners.com

This slip-on mule was last year’s favoured look and has been reimagined in natural tones for 2020. Loupe Shoes £85, dunelondon.com

The feather-light Rosalie Romper in indigo blue is from the bohoinspired summer collection by luxe loungewear experts, Eberjey. £177, selfridges.com

Independent swimwear designers, Deakin and Blue have hit the jackpot with their range of styles, each tweaked a little to flatter a variety of sizes. This version of their Plunge Swimsuit in Willow is from the Hendricks selection, designed for those capacious of bosom. Made from regenerated nylon fibre and ocean-friendly. £120, deakinandblue.com Fresha London takes their bestselling Melissa Maxi dress and makes it mini. Slip into those tiers of Mykonos-blue ruffles. £165, freshalondon.com

Travelling from garden to house and back again requires little more than a pair of slip-on sandals. Birkenstocks embody the season and their Mayari Metallic sandals in softly shimmering matte blue are in keeping with the relaxed aesthetic. £59, figleaves.com

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Multi-award winning Columbian reggaetón singer and rapper, J Balvin, has channelled creativity into fashion design for the latest Guess collaboration. These super cute shorts offer just a glimpse of the cool street style on offer. £65, guess.eu


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We love the unusual and versatile design of this palm green bikini with drawstrings to hoick the décolletage or raise the thigh-level; the bralette manages to be both suggestive and modest – quite an achievement – and could even be styled as a top. Further, the yarn from which it is made is treated with bioactive minerals to help regulate the body’s temperature and circulation. £73/£38, maisonlejaby.com A throw-over is essential and the botanical prints from One Hundred Stars marry perfectly with the theme. Glorious, gargantuan blooms on a grand scale, these designs have been produced in collaboration with Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. £75, onehundredstars.co.uk

Wearing Rejina Pyo’s Daisy Hat would be akin to having a parasol bestow its gracious shade without having to flex a single muscle, thanks to the oversized, asymmetric brim ensuring full and fabulous coverage from the sun. £245, rejinapyo.com

This ombre-striped dress from indie designers, Sugarhill Brighton, has something of the deckchair about it in the best possible peach melbatastic way. £54, sugarhillbrighton.com

We were going to ask ‘who needs the beach with accessories like these?’ but who are we kidding? There’s no denying, though, it’s a very lovely form of consolation. £12.50, next.co.uk

Finish off the look with a spritz or two of salt spray for seaside-free beachy waves. Authentic Beauty Concept creates thoughtful, sustainable hair products which optimise plant power, smell divine and deliver results. Their Nymph Salt Spray adds volume and leaves hair full and soft, rather than raddled and crispy. £24.90, mewiesandcoshop.co.uk

A rainbow of crystals adorn the frames of these blue-tinted glasses by Italian eyewear experts, Marcolin. £159, swarovski.com

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


CURRENTLY

CRAVING The Ideal Pannier Bag SOPHIE ELKAN

There’s not much that makes me happier than a successful marriage of function and style, and so my need for one of Hill & Ellis’ pannier bags is entirely justifiable. I am particularly coveting one from the new (water-resistant) canvas range and despite the website stating each design was inspired by favoured London cycle routes, I feel these perfectly-formed bike bags may just find their natural home in Oxford. Sturdy-bottomed, and with a more than decent sized internal zipped section, the gamechanger is a nifty side pocket housing a pannier clip which makes light work of attaching and detaching when out and about, be it a jaunt to the shops or an outdoor meet-up with friends or family. From £88, hillandellis.com OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020


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DIFFERENT WAYS TO WEAR

JUNGLE PRINT

Versace Runway 2020

Arguably, jungle print’s defining moment was 20 years ago (yes, really!) when Jennifer Lopez strode onto the stage at the Grammys in Versace-green and set a new bar for statement dressing. Earlier this year J.Lo closed the show at Versace in an updated version of the iconic gown, ensuring a return for jungle to our normcore lives.

Luxury British pyjama brand, Desmond & Dempsey are the latest design label to collaborate with H&M. This charming linen-blend playsuit in petrol blue and white keeps the leafy vibe but offers a different take on the theme. £24.99, hm.com

There’s something about these pink satin jammies with their fronds and fauna that make us want to squeal ‘sleepover’! Loving the scrunchie, the revere collar and the shorter sleeve. £20, tesco.com

Please don’t nitpick. We know zebras don’t live in the jungle; we googled it, they like wide grassy plains. However, the aesthetic is all here and the divine mossy green with beaded zebra print trim does a great job of evoking the shaded, verdant vibe. £20, uk.accessorize.com

Almost the exact antithesis of the Versace frock; where that was vivid, this is muted. Where that revealed, this conceals – nonetheless there’s no denying its appeal. The slight puff at the shoulder, and demure high neck works well with the flippy skirt’s sedate length but the pattern is pure tropics and those mustard shades are clearly set to stay for some time to come. £38, dorothyperkins.com

© Cesare Gualdoni

If you suspect you may not get much wear out of Donatella Versace’s reimagining of the original frock, adorn your wrist instead of your bod. The Medusa Frame watch by Versace £1,090, selfridges.com JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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FINISHING TOUCHES FACEMASKS

Style Cheat’s campaign #LetsMaskTogether uses the brand’s fabric offcuts and for each mask sold, a medical-grade mask is donated to a frontline worker. £9.99, stylecheat.com

We think it was Tyra Banks who coined the phrase ‘but make it fashion’ and it comes to mind as we turn to accessories this month. This issue we’re showcasing a few of the many varieties of face masks or coverings which have launched over the past couple of months.

So Just Shop’s eye-catching masks are handmade from upcycled fabric. They include a pocket for a disposable filter and are available in a variety of colours. This website works closely with small artisan groups in marginalised communities. All profits from these sales will go directly back to pay a living wage to the women making these masks, and will also support local social and healthcare initiatives. £14.99, sojustshop.com Couture bridal designer, Chantal Mallett is clearly seeking to keep a smile on our faces with her witty, pretty masks and she is donating 10% of profits to coronavirus charities. The top layer is created from tightly woven cotton ticking, and the inner from soft cotton jersey. Masks come with one free filter, a pattern for you to make more filters of your own, plus a storage bag. £19.99, maskhaveaccessory.uk

Liberty’s beautiful and iconic prints have been used by Brora to create a selection of face covers. They’re beautifully made, but admittedly on the steeper side. However, for each mask sold, Brora are giving £10 to NHS Charities Together, and at time of writing has raised £100k for the organisation. £19, brora.co.uk

Migrate Art fundraises to support The Refugee Community Kitchen. They have undertaken a collaboration with ten major contemporary artists and illustrators to create some art for our faces. Each costs £19.99 which in turn provides 30 hot meals for displaced and homeless people across the UK. Five designs were launched at the start of June, with new designs being released each week until mid-July. migrateart.com

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Sustainable ‘craftist’, Ana Carvalho started creating masks as a way of remaining creative during lockdown. Her colourful masks use pure cotton, feature a filter pocket and are designed to be reusable. £8, etsy.com/uk/shop/ AmorAmorCrafts

Independent design brand TemAD Collection uses their trademark selection of Ankara prints to create a design-led mask which carries on the bright, bold aesthetic of the label. Masks are available singly, or in packs of three or five. From £5.99, temadcollections.com


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“I LOVE WHAT I DO AND HOW MY PRODUCTS MAKE PEOPLE FEEL” TANIA WEDIN, CREATOR OF SHADE, AWARD-WINNING NATURAL SUNSCREEN

Tania Wedin could be introduced as an entrepreneur, but to do so would be somewhat misleading. Her ambition isn’t the usual acquisition of fortune or power, but her business acumen, vision and drive are no less impressive for this.

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er present career started when, as a new mother in 1999, she helped launch a near-miracle natural cure for breathing difficulties (YamoaTM ) before going on to establish a company dedicated to offering a rigorously selected range of efficacious natural health products, Not the Norm Ltd. She has recently become a trustee for her father’s charity, the HOCl Trust for Hygiene and Safer Water (hocltrust.org) who are running a campaign to fill the gap in PPE for frontline key workers by providing free antiviral sanitiser to those in need, and on top of all of this, she is the inventor of Shade – a toxin-free, organic, sustainable sun screen balm which has steadily, by word of mouth, gathered devoted users, a host of awards and widespread acclaim since its launch in 2014. How did you come up with the formulation for Shade? I researched which were considered the safest, most effective broad-spectrum sunscreen ingredients, decided what seemed to be unnecessary in terms of function (e.g. fragrance, preservatives, etc.) and thought about what might be used to make the blend more solid so it could go in a tin. I had to consider which percentages would be best for achieving a certain SPF and then chose the very best quality

of ingredients I could find. I literally played around over a bain-marie until I was happy with the consistency and efficacy. I came up with the name (and couldn’t believe nobody else had it!), trademarked it and – when I had enough money – sent it off for testing. It came back not as the SPF30 I had hoped for, but a very acceptable SPF25, and the rest is history. With just four ingredients, what does each bring to the party? I’ve chosen Soil Association-certified organic unrefined Shea Butter for our formula; antiinflammatory, prevents premature ageing and highly moisturising. Coconut oil is widely known to be healthful and versatile but it also has a natural, although low, SPF. I’ve chosen a pure, sustainably-sourced unrefined beeswax, which is completely non-toxic. It locks in moisture, has excellent water-repellent properties and, as it has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-allergenic and a germicidal antioxidant, it’s a perfect sunscreen ingredient. As a vegan, as much as I would like to offer a beeswax-free version of Shade, I have to be convinced that the product will be as good in function, as well as ethically and sustainably sourced. The beeswax we use is sourced from several sustainably managed small beekeeping JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


Kitson Photography

An undiscovered secret in the heart of Oxford the OXFORD UNION

events@oxford-union.org | 01865 241 353 | www.oxford-union.org


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outfits from the UK, Europe and New Zealand. We can’t get away from it – because we have decimated bees’ natural habitats through urbanisation and agriculture, beekeeping is here to stay. I have been reassured by our beekeepers that what is taken from the hives in the form of wax is the excess which the colonies do not need to survive. We have been testing other formulas which would be vegan and two are particularly promising, so watch this space… Finally and most importantly, our active ingredient: a pharmaceutical grade Zinc oxide, which additionally has a cooling, slightly astringent, antiseptic, antibacterial and protective action on the skin, also making Shade a perfect after-sun treatment. Why was it so important to you to take the natural route? Reddening from sun exposure is our skin’s early warning system to alert us that we need to move out of the sun and cover up. This is often a reaction that simply does not occur with chemical sunscreens due to the way in which the sunscreen ingredients work within the skin, and therefore you will not know when your skin has had enough exposure. Have you thought of extending the range into skincare or cosmetics? Yes, and I have realised I don’t need to. There are many companies making excellent natural skincare products of all types out there. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel, with Shade I came up with a sunscreen that filled a gap in the market for a basic sunscreen that does what it says on the tin without causing allergic reactions. There is no such gap in the general cosmetics market that isn’t filled by someone else, so I don’t see a need to formulate more products in the range. You run a successful business without compromise, which is incredibly commendable. Have you had to turn down many opportunities which would have compromised your ethics? Yes, I’ve turned down big high street chains who have wanted to launch my products into the mainstream. But I prefer to build my business in an organic and manageable way. I’m also not a ‘breadhead’, so the desire to ‘grow’ the business as such doesn’t necessarily appeal. I’m happy with enough income to put food on plates and pay the mortgage each month. The occasional holiday is nice but I’m happy at home, lucky enough to be living next to beautiful Port Meadow with a canoe. It hasn’t always been an easy ride by any means, but I love what I do and how my products make people feel, and that’s reward enough for me.

Where have you found the most unexpected support? I have to admit I hadn’t anticipated the development and furious growth of the antiplastic movement. I put my sunscreen in a tin because I personally have always hated plastics, avoiding them as much as possible. I never expected Shade to take off so well because of its packaging – I always thought it would be down to the ingredients (or lack thereof ) alone. However, the refill and packaging-free shops that are cropping up everywhere have been massive supporters.

Knowing I have personally been a catalyst for changing someone’s life is quite a buzz

What has been your proudest moment? Actually, there have been many! Getting the first thank-you letter from a customer; knowing I have personally been a catalyst for changing someone’s life is quite a buzz. This has been repeated hundreds and hundreds of times throughout the years and the warm fuzzy feeling doesn’t diminish. The most recent two were Ethical Consumer Magazine naming Shade as one of the Top 5 Ethical Sunscreens in the UK, and a couple of weeks ago the Macmillan skin cancer clinic in University Hospital of North Durham contacted me to say they will be supplying Shade to their skin cancer patients, to help them choose a safer sunscreen. Having a father who has had skin cancer, this was a very special moment for me. The biggest surprise was when Janey Lee Grace (founder of the Janey Loves Awards, for natural and sustainable products) gave Shade its first award back in 2015 – I had no idea it had even been nominated, so that was lovely. For more information on Not the Norm Ltd, online stockist of Yamoa, Shade and other natural remedies and ethical products, visit not-the-norm.com JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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BEST FOOT FORWARD With little chance of a trip to the salon for a thorough foot slough-and-primp, we’re looking at how to achieve the best possible results from home. First off, spend a few minutes soaking your feet in warm water. Add a handful of something soothing, like Westlab’s Cleanse Bathing Salts, a blend of Himalayan and Epsom salts pepped up with the addition of citrusy essential oils. £6.99, lookfantastic.com This will help soften but should be considered the pre-prep to the main event: that inevitable build-up of hard, dead skin will need to be physically removed for tootsies to truly flourish. Before you reach for the parmesan grater, check out exfoliating foot socks. There are a number of options, all following the same broad premise: wear for an hour or so, rinse, and after around a week the dried out top layer will start to drop away.

We tried the SVR XERIAL Peel Exfoliating Foot Mask (£17, feelunique.com) with active ingredients including a combination of urea and skin-safe acids. Unlike other exfoliating socks this will start working in around four days, and usually the full procedure (a miraculous shedding of dry, roughened skin) is complete within a week or so. There’s no denying that you need to make your peace with the fact that you will be leaving fragments of skin wherever you go. Ideally, they should be used before sandal-season starts, but if flapping around in flip-flops whilst self-isolating has had a deleterious effect on your feet, bite the bullet, live with the moulting, and soon beautifully soft feet should emerge from the desiccation, like a butterfly from a chrysalis.

A less dramatic option is to slough off manually. Traditionally pumice stone has been deployed for this purpose. A fabulous alternative comes courtesy of Tropic Skincare. Their Polishing Foot Pebble is described by our tester as “brilliant. It’s effective and quite deceptively abrasive. I doubt anyone would need to use it more than once a week but it’s transformed my feet.” This foaming bar contains sand and volcanic ash to exfoliate and peppermint to leave feet fresh. £9, tropicskincare.com

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When the hard skin has been consigned to memory, get to grips with moisturising. An old trick is to slather on cream just before bedtime then pop on a pair of socks and in the morning your feet may just be unrecognisable (Lotil have a great offering for feet and Vaseline also does the job). Another option is to invest in a foot mask. We love Masque Bar’s Intensive Moisturising Foot Mask – same drill as the sock, but worn for just 30 minutes. Once the time is up, instead of rinsing off the excess, massage the remaining Shea-butter-rich


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serum into your feet and enjoy the revitalising zing of peppermint and apple. £9.99 for two pairs, boots.com

Sophie Elkan

THIS MONTH I’M INSPIRED BY…

BILLIE EILISH

Once your feet are buffed and baby-soft, clip and file the nails in a horizontal, going across the foot – any sort of shaping could risk ingrown toenails (not glamorous). Make sure you’re not dragging the file backwards and forwards across the nail as this can cause splitting, but instead firm sweeps from one side to the other. Finally, a lick of polish. Although darker shades are perennially chic, take advantage of the summer months to lighten up. Sorbet shades have been popular for the past couple of years but we’re all about hologram nails, courtesy of Diego Dalla Palma Polish (£9.50, marksandspencer.com). Toe separators help in attaining a smudge-free pro-effect, a clear base will keep the nailbed stain-free, and a good top coat will help the look to last – we like Nail HQ’s Gel Top Coat (£6.49, fragrancedirect.co.uk). Don’t forget a drop or two of cuticle oil or, if you’ve none to hand, olive oil will do the trick.

If my lockdown had a soundtrack, Eilish’s melodious vocals would be a constant, meandering through suspended days. My teenage daughter and I aren’t just sharing a house, but also a music app, meaning her downloaded tracks fill my internal space via headphones on my daily walk. The run of good weather has been largely unbroken, and my evening perambulation a form of daily salvation: a marker that the working day is over. I’ve found myself drawn to music which fits the golden hour, when the light is soft but the sun still bakes my skin. There’s been some Roxy Music, a little George, David Sylvian, bits of Dylan and – when a more upbeat tempo is required to power me along the final stretch – bursts of Beyoncé, Snoop and yes, some Streisand. But it’s Eilish whom I savour. Storing her up for the most beautiful parts of Cutteslowe Park, knowing that the combination of the sun’s gentle heat, the dreamy, almost somnambulant, vocals and the beauty around me will deliver a high as palpable as that of my Friday night G&T. Back to the teenager. Her Instagram story was dominated for a while by a short film, ‘Not My Responsibility’, made by Eilish and originally produced for her 2020 tour. Bathed in soft light, the singer slowly strips. For anyone who hasn’t spent the past few months in teenage company, BE is famously draped when appearing in public, having stated an intention to deflect attention from her corporeal self. When news of the film broke in our house my first question, ‘why take her clothes off?’ was followed up with a brief rant on why female artists are so often seen (near) naked; it’s never Sheeran’s schlong on show. Once I’d got it out of my system, I watched what must be acknowledged to be a pretty powerful film in which Eilish’s otherworldly voice challenges the viewer: “Do you know me? ... Is my value based only on your perception, or is your opinion of me not my responsibility?” I may not be in Eilish’s legions of young fans, but it never hurts to be reminded at any age that taking on others’ opinions is a choice we make; to accept or reject. At a time when so much has been restricted, the space to consider the choices I make has been a gift and one I hope does not relinquish once the tempo of daily life speeds up again.

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Beauty

GIVEAWAY HOUSE OF HOPSTOCK WITH SKIN ALCHEMISTS Tropical climes are out of reach for now, but perhaps solace could be found in this beautiful bag of goodies from House of Hopstock, in collaboration with Skin Alchemists. The bold, colourful artwork of the makeup bag, accompanying brush bag and cottonvelvet eyemask (stuffed with Cotswold lavender) is the work of illustrator and designer, Aase Hopstock who seeks to bring beauty and joy to the everyday. The vivid print features Hopstock’s signature flora-fauna inspired designs and the lushness continues with a selection of indulgent, award-winning organic skincare by Skin Alchemists contained within. Skin Alchemists’ founder, Theresa, is St Lucian-born and all products in the collection – soap slice, facial cleansing oil, body oil and scrub, and the Midnight’s Serenade candle – are designed to nourish and nurture. Ingredients are sourced directly from independent farmers wherever possible and the tropical scents promise transportation to a sensory paradise. Available in a selection of sizes, from A Taste of Paradise (£25) right up to the biggest and the best, Island Dreams, of which we have one to give away to a lucky reader. Visit oxmag.co.uk/ competitions to enter, stating your choice of colour – the deep tropical blues and greens of Harvest or the wild pinks and reds of Ruby. The full set is worth £139.50 but is retailing for the snap-it-up-now price of £85. houseofhopstock.com | skinalchemists.com

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Boots’ Soltan range shields from both more than adequately, and can often be found on offer during the warmer months. Another decent option to cover the whole family without breaking the bank is Delph which consistently scores highly when reviewed. The lotion sinks into the skin easily, without the need for endless rubbing and massaging or that horrible tackiness which can so often be felt after a decent application. Special mention to their After Sun Gel which combines Aloe Vera with vitamin E, both classic skin soothers so nothing groundbreaking here but, in all, a simple range which works exceedingly well. From £2.29, weldricks.co.uk

Summer Skin TAN-TALISING

TO BATHE IN THE SUN MUST BE ONE OF LIFE’S GREATEST SENSORY PLEASURES, AND THE MAJORITY OF US TAKE SOME DELIGHT IN SEEING OUR MELANIN LEVELS DEEPEN. Most people have a fundamental understanding of the necessity of protection and the need to guard against exposure to both UVA and UVB light. The first causes aging, the second sun burn, and overexposure to either or both potentially can lead to skin cancer. However, there are an abundance of sun blocks and screens, lotions, sprays and balms on the market. Look out for the star rating and choose one listing four stars or more on the packaging.

One for the private shelf is Soleil Toujours. With prices starting from £19 for a travel-size, this isn’t one for liberal family use unless your family is Rockefeller-rich, but the quality is exceptional. This mineralbased luxury sun care brand promises all the benefits of a premium skincare range along with reef-friendly credentials, sustainable packaging and state of the art, naturally-sourced ingredients. Stash a tube of their best-selling SPF 30 Mineral Sun Screen Glow away from the clan and if anyone asks why your skin looks so dewy, or why the colour is so golden simply smile and put it down to good luck (although truth be told, it will have everything to do with the sheer tint in the product and the subtle light-reflecting particles suspended within its emollient base). Online retailers include spacenk.com and cultbeauty.com

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Another option is to employ a degree of fakery before flashing the flesh. It’s always worth spending a little time both on researching the products which work best for your tone, and also on the process of application. Before any tan is applied to either face or body, do yourself a favour and exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate. The buffer the skin, the better the result and nothing screams fake more than patches of colour. Depilate the day before, if possible, and use an exfoliating cleanser in the shower prior to application. Yardley’s new Flowerazzi range smells sweetly floral and their Body Scrub packs a punch with its combination of pumice and walnut shell in an aloe-based foaming gel. £6, yardleylondon.co.uk

A gradual tanner is an easy way to deepen colour, and there are any number of options available. Add Garnier’s commendable Summer Body lotion to the Ocado shop, or splurge on the still-iconic St Tropez. Our current favourite is the Happy Tan Everyday Gradual Glow from vegan brand, Isle of Paradise. In addition to a believably natural colour, skin tone appears more even, and it even leaves just a suggestion of shimmering glow. Plus, it’s vegan, organic and certified cruelty-free. £14.95, theisleofparadise.com

If your main interaction is still virtual, your priority may be THO (top half only) coverage, in which case a face-specific choice should be just the ticket. Norvell are tanners to the stars – well, the dancing stars at any rate. If it’s good enough for Strictly Come Dancing it’s definitely good enough for the rest of us. The Venetian Mist for Faces is non-comedogenic (won’t block pores) and has violet as opposed to orange undertones which help create a naturallooking bronze, rather than a less-than-classy brass. £9.99, from Amazon or norvelltanning.co.uk

If, however, you prefer the more traditional approach to sunless tanning involving an all-over application which develops over a few hours and lasts a good few days, Amanda Harrington is the name to know. Her expert range of products are based around skin tone, rather than shade, making them truly inclusive for all skin colours; Natural Rose for fair, Natural Honey for medium and Natural Olive for darker tones. We tried The Body Set (£85, amandaharrington.com) which follows Harrington’s Three-Step Tanning Method. It starts with the Pre-Colour Primer which not only leaves skin beautifully hydrated, but also contains a low-level tanning agent to kick things off. This is followed by a Bronzing Mousse which is rubbed all over (latex gloves are included) and then buffed, using the generously-sized Big Body Brush. Even if you consider yourself something of a faux-tan pro, this could well be a game-changer. Circular movements with the brush across the body really help to achieve perfectly even, lasting coverage, even on feet, wrists and knees (the unholy trinity in tanning terms). JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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JULY’S JUBILATIONS SOPHIE ELKAN I have been living in slides and trainers since March, so my ‘shu-perhero’ has been found in the form of Shoe-Pourri, a blend of aromatherapy oils designed to be sprayed inside your shoe to dissipate malodourous emissions. I love a pun, and so must also make mention of the brand’s first launch product: Poo Pourri. Please picture the scene… back in preCovid times I met the PR for the brand at a very swanky London hotel. Out of her bag came a selection of desirable, prestige goodies and then a small, prettily decorated bottle of what appeared to be a scent. And it was, but designed to be sprayed in the loo, prior to ‘dropping the kids off at the pool’, shall we say? I was overcome with (puerile) delight and spent the rest of the meeting failing to hold back the giggles. Joking aside, both work very well – in shoe and loo. £7.99 each, available from Amazon, Ocado and poopourri.co.uk

BRANDS

Dear Dahlia Happily, the words ‘prestige vegan brand’ are now able to coexist unremarkably in a sentence, such has been the determination of the beauty industry to provide for a market which has grown exponentially in the past couple of years. However, if I’m being brutally honest, secure in the knowledge that this Korean brand is approved ‘cruelty-free’ I can acknowledge that what really quickens my heartbeat is admiring the pretty, marbled rose-gold edged packaging, swatching the highly pigmented colours, and marvelling at the innovative and – it has to be said – fabulously bougie product selection. Take, for example, the octagonal Dual Palette which manages to house a twosided, take-anywhere nigh-on-full face of makeup. The diminutive casing contains two complementarily-toned eye shadows on one side and a multi-balm on the other, designed to work together to create a number of customisable looks. Then consider the delight of a product named the Velvet Lip Mousse Tint. Yes please, to a stubby little pot of deeply rich lip colour, whisper-light, which blots onto the lip making your mouth look thoroughly kissed. The range also includes lipsticks, balms, blenders, a commendable brow-sculpting pencil and a rather wonderful water-based liquid eyeshadow. feelunique.com/brands/Dear-Dahlia

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I would urge anyone interested in permanent teeth whitening to consult with a dentist, but for a quick-fix on a special occasion, White Glo’s Bright Nights Dissolving Whitening Films are a pretty safe bet. £4.99, whiteglo.co.uk


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Mio Skincare’s Clay Away Purifying Body Cleanser is a beautifully versatile shower wash which functions perfectly as a daily cleanser for the body but the fun really starts when it is employed as a full body mask. Smear the clay-based cream over dry skin and wait for a minute or two, whilst the shower is coming to temperature. It won’t set hard, like a clay-based face mask, but you should notice a subtle change in the colour and texture before stepping under warm water and rinsing. Known antioxidants, witch hazel and matcha tea help with clarifying skin and balancing any impurities £21, mioskincare.co.uk

THREE OF THE BEST: HAIRCARE

Chok Beauty are a new brand seeking to simplify skincare with the aim of enabling their customers to achieve glass-looking skin. They take inspiration from Korea (‘chok chok’ means moist in Korean) and their Iconic Skin Perfector works the facial muscles to improve circulation and renewal. As well as giving skin a sonic workout during cleansing, this multi-use device houses a stainless steel disc with a red-light ring at its centre. This works in a number of ways: first, for eradicating makeup; a really nifty detachable ring around the disc can be used to secure a cotton pad doused in makeup remover for turbo-charged removal. But there’s more; the disc gently heats and pulses, and a couple of minutes spent working the device across your face allows the red light to penetrate the surface layer and act on reducing inflammation, blemishes and fine lines. The heat opens up the pores, so it can also be used to boost the penetration of a sheet mask or even your daily serum. I’m trying to word this carefully and find a balance between explaining the theory and its real-life functionality. In all honesty, I’ve been really impressed with the results of hometesting. The ergonomic design makes it super comfortable to use and I like how my skin feels after use. Hyperbole aside, I cannot claim my skin is now glass-like but it has a beautiful, glowy lustre and certainly feels more radiant and lifted. £99, chokbeauty.com

Paul Mitchell have been creating luxury haircare products for 40 years and have commemorated this achievement by giving a makeover to their original shampoo and conditioner. If this wasn’t reason enough to revisit this excellent brand, then be assured that the quality of the product remains superlative. The Everyday Shampoo (No 1 in the range) is a classic all-rounder, the Clarifying Shampoo (No 2) promises to remove build-up and leave hair light and clean, and the thick, blue leave-in Conditioner works its magic to restore softness to sun-blasted locks, thanks to Mitchell’s hero ingredient, awapuhi. This Hawaiian plant, also known as ‘shampoo ginger’, helps prevent moisture loss and boost volume and texture. From £8.25, lookfantastic.com

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Only Curls London have a mission: to encourage ‘curly girls’ everywhere to ditch the chemicals and the straighteners and embrace their natural curls. Their product range includes a whole host of curl-loving accessories including silk pillowcases, to reduce frizz and a choice of pretty, colourful, wide toothed combs. My own waves were emphasised when I tested the range, and my tester, who had natural curly hair, was seriously impressed. “You don’t have to use a lot of product and they’re really lightweight, which meant less residue and more volume. The Curl Creme really helped define my hair – and they smell very nice!” The range is replete in natural oils including avocado, argan and kukui and all products are free from sulphates and silicones. Only Curls Full Size Collection £64, onlycurls.com

Maria Nila are the go-to brand for millennial/Gen Z colour choice (Pearl Silver and Pink Pop sound particularly enticing). Their shampoos and conditioners have been formulated to meet any number of needs and each contains the brand’s signature Colour Guard Complex. If you’ve been colouring at home, though, I’d specifically recommend the Luminous Colour option, which works to rebuild and strengthen follicles whilst guarding against loss of vibrancy. For summer 2020 they have packaged up their pretty products in a (vegan, recycled mesh) bag of tailored goodies containing one fullsize and one travel-size of each for the bargain price of £42 – a saving of £32 on the RRP. marianila.com

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Photos: Saul Morgan

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Will we have rainbows day after day? HERE’S WHAT LA VOIX SAID guests such as Clive Rowe, Basil Brush, and a certain somebody else with a rendition of ‘Que Sera, Sera’… “It’s madness here,” La Voix tells Sam Bennett down the phone, “we’ve got some work outside the house and it’s incredibly noisy – and the washing machine’s going. Domestic bliss...”

F

or ten years, The Smiling Sessions have offered participatory, high-quality singing experiences for senior citizens in care homes in deprived areas of London, helping them become more integrated and stay healthy and active. Now, in these unprecedented times, they are keener than ever to harness the power of music and singing to support wellbeing and mental health. “It’s a very moving, rewarding project,” says Alison Jones, cofounder of The Smiling Sessions, recalling the faces of residents saddened that the initiative would not be continuing in a physical capacity due to Covid-19. “I spent a couple of weeks,” she says, “thinking, ‘how are we going to keep reaching out and connecting with these lovely people who are probably more isolated than everybody else?’ We had to learn very quickly about the digital and technical aspects of doing that.” Her colleagues Pete Baikie (cofounder, vocals, guitar) and Neil Herd (vocals, guitar) are better equipped than she is in that respect, the violinist admits, and they brought on-board video editor, Oliver Parkin for the weekly Smiling Remotely Sessions. Having received financial support from emergency Covid funders and the Arts Council (“a long-term supporter of our work”), the team are also raising money to buy iPads and tablets for care homes and isolated communities to enable them to join in with the weekly virtual singalongs. Thus far these sessions have starred celebrity

What was the last live gig you did? Before the lockdown thing, we were full swing with my UK’s Funniest Redhead tour. We did Theatre Royal Brighton – packed, sold out, social distancing wasn’t even a thing back then, amazing night – and that was the Saturday… the theatres closed on the Sunday. So technically I think La Voix closed down the theatres (I’m hoping that’s not the case). I do a lot of cruise ships as well – the cruise ships and theatres were the first things to go. You’re in tour-mind – you’ve got your trundle packed, travelling clothes on – and then all of a sudden you’re cleaning out your kitchen cupboards. It wasn’t quite the plan. You’re a big name, very popular, but at the end of the day you are a jobbing performer for whom the Covid situation must be a challenge. Absolutely. There’s sometimes a big misunderstanding with the arts where people think we all live in huge houses and drive flash cars – the life of luxury. But with my show, everything I earn I plough back into the show; costumes, feathers, merchandise, I have a fourpiece band and sound crew. It all costs an awful lot of money so you’re constantly investing back into the business (it’s show business for a reason). Some of the costumes I was wearing at Theatre Royal Brighton, I hadn’t paid for yet. To have all that investment and then not have the show is a big worry for any artist. And of course usually there’d be all the Prides for you to play. I know! When I was younger, there was London Pride and Brighton Pride – all I remember. Now they’re everywhere. I have my dancing boys and costumes made specifically for Pride JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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Season. Still now, when I’m touring, I try and get in as many as I can. I’ve been lucky to go abroad; Amsterdam Pride, I did Malta Pride last year which was amazing. You don’t realise how much you miss that sense of community and celebration. Some people don’t think Pride should be a party, I’m the complete opposite, I think it’s got to be an absolute celebration. The whole aim of a Pride is that anyone on the outside looking in sees a perfectly normal, fine and happy event. And if you can dance in the face of hatred, what better way of throwing it back at them is there than showing we’re having a good time? It’s going to be hard for queer people not having those physical celebrations. I think so. What’s going to be good though is when the Prides do come back, they’re going to be bigger and better than ever. And their digital presence will be stronger, because Pride organisers have had to truly get to grips with that this year – have you been embracing the digital? Well, it’s lovely to see you’re a big follower of my page if you’re asking that question... Darling, I’ve done everything you can imagine. I’m a terrible cook and I thought, ‘I can’t cook but I’m quite interested – maybe this is the time I learn.’ My good friend, Rosemary Shrager – who you all know from Ladette to Lady and OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

‘the jungle’ – said ‘I’ll teach you.’ So, every Wednesday at 6pm, she’s cooking in her kitchen, I’m cooking in my kitchen. I’ve got to keep up with a professional chef and the results haven’t been too bad. What’s lovely is people at home have been cooking along – I’m loving it. I did some isolation cabaret shows with my live band, I’ve been doing makeup tutorials – what more can you do? I’m not singing to a backing track in my kitchen – I’ll leave that to Sam Bailey. Are you sticking to a routine – up and dressed every morning? I try to keep to a routine but not make every week the same – I can’t stand that. Obviously my shows and social media stuff is quite scheduled but I like to vary it up completely. I don’t lounge around doing anything too casual, it’s really important to get dressed up even if you’re not going out. Put your nice clothes on, put some makeup on, do your hair, even if it’s just for yourself. You appeared in Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie in 2016 – was there a bit of you that thought: ‘I can retire now, I’ve made it.’? I’ll never forget getting the phone call. I was in Gran Canaria, I’d just done Pride, it was late and my agent rang me. It was this message and all it said was ‘call me immediately, don’t


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drink tonight.’ (She knows I like a tipple after a show.) I rang her, she was like ‘they want you for the Ab Fab movie, they’re flying you home in the morning, you’ve got to go to the studio to record the vocals (I sang ‘Poison Arrow’ by ABC when Saffy’s walking into the RVT). I remember being thrown onto this flight back the next day, straight into the studio and this guy had these amazing golden discs all around the room, Jane Horrocks stepped out before I went in, and you’re there thinking ‘oh my God, this is surreal.’ Cut to filming day, you’re with Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley – all these people you’ve grown up with – it was so surreal but so lovely and such a family; you felt instantly welcomed and connected to them all.

big? It is the most wonderful theatre and family of staff who work there. The whole town and beyond have just embraced me – and Andy Collins, we’ve been in it ten years and it’s just wonderful, like going home every year. Because a lot of my tour is me on my own, it’s lovely to suddenly be part of a company, sharing the jokes. Not many people say this, but I find pantomime a bit of a rest compared to my solo touring. Once you walk on stage in your own show, you are carrying that baton until the end. With pantomime, at least I can come off stage and have a breather for five minutes while there’s another scene going on.

Did you meet Kate Moss? I didn’t do any of those filming days. I have met Kate Moss, this is a story for you… When I used to work at Heaven, I was on the door doing the VIP guest list every Wednesday night. I was very young and naive and this woman clacked towards me and said ‘hello.’ It was about 2 in the morning, I was cold… ‘Hello.’ ‘Can I come in?’ ‘Well, is your name on the list?’ ‘It might be.’ ‘What’s your name?’ ‘Kate.’ ‘[Sighs] Kate what?’ ‘Kate Moss.’ ‘Oh...’ Then of course I stupidly pretended to look at the clipboard like I was trying to find the name. The manager lifted up the rope and said ‘I think we’ll let her in, don’t you?’ I was mortified. What’s on your post-lockdown radar? As soon as the theatres start to open, I’m back on that road. I’ve got my contract with the fabulous P&O, they’ve just launched a brand new cruise line, I’m doing the maiden voyage of that. And of course, fingers crossed, I’ll be going into pantomime back at Aylesbury Waterside, playing Fairy Godmother in Cinderella. You’re a staple of the Aylesbury panto now. I know, who’d have thought Aylesbury would become your hometown when you become

Do you have different preparations depending on what type of gig you’re doing? Mainly it’s always vodka. Vodka cranberry is the best preparation whether you’re doing the Royal Family, the Palladium or Pride. Do you know what I’ve learnt in my line of work? Whether you are dressed up in black tie for the most formal corporate event, or at a shindig in a garden, everybody just wants a good time, a laugh and a bit of a dance. I don’t want to do politics, I don’t want to do intense Q&As, I just want people to be entertained. @lavoixtheshow Watch La Voix’s Smiling Remotely Weekly Singalong on Shapeshifter Productions’ YouTube channel. Visit shapeshifterproductions.com for more on the Smiling Sessions and the Smiling Remotely App, making access to their song video library really easy for carers and staff.

As soon as the theatres start to open, I’m back on that road. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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What Humanity Can Be

Our primary task,” explains Andrez Harriott, “is to change the trajectory for children who are most at risk of becoming involved in criminality, or children who are currently involved in criminality.” We’re discussing The Liminality Group (TLG) of which he is founder. They know, the CEO states, that children who are excluded from school, and children lacking early intervention programmes, are more likely to end up in the criminal justice system. From his home in Kent, he also points out that children released from custody are likely to reoffend within the first year. So, TLG provides schools with crime

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diversion workshops, also finding young people work experience during school holidays, and arranging university visits for them. In prisons, the organisation works with young offenders “who are there for anything from murder to robbery”, running offending behaviour programmes and looking at how they can find employment following release. In the TLG newsletter, ‘Connected’, he has written about Covid-19, which has seen children confined to dangerous spaces (as researched by the NSPCC). Schools can offer respite, he says, to pupils whose family members abuse them physically, sexually or emotionally.

I wish I could say that America has its own issues which are not replicated in the UK


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Others come from homes of intergenerational unemployment, “where money is tight”, and need the school lunch and timetable. Removal of the school structure leaves certain children “more at risk than they’ve ever been”. Plus, the Office for National Statistics (ONS) estimates that 771,000 young people (aged 16-24) in the UK were not in education, employment or training in January-March. Lockdown can’t be helping them, can it? “No, it can’t be,” he begins. “I love statistics, they’re great, but behind the numbers are families, people.” Those making up the aforementioned figure, he resumes, will go on to have kids, generating a vast amount of families in which the parents have stories of dreadful education and employment. “That will then feed into the generations to come.” ‘Connected’ has also seen him address the killing of George Floyd. “I wish I could say that America has its own issues which are not replicated in the UK,” he writes, “but unfortunately, we have our own history of black men dying either by being restrained by police officers or whilst in the custody of police officers.” He goes on to express concern for how Floyd’s death is being received by children and young people, who he imagines feel the same way he did following the 1993 murder of Stephen Lawrence. Originally from Lewisham, he attended school in Eltham, where Lawrence was stabbed at a bus stop. The incident left him confused and feeling alone. May’s atrocity, he tells us, will have confirmed young people’s “suspicions about how they’ve been managed by the police in the past, in the UK, and I’m sure they’re looking for adults and leaders to give them some guidance to how they can mobilise that energy into something which will bring about change.” But how can adults be beacons when, as he says, they’re also distressed by the George Floyd images? “I think the thing to do at the moment,” he answers, “is what we’re trying to

do as adults: create spaces where people can have discussions. What I’m doing with children right now, is creating a space where they can throw all their anger and frustration into a pot; they can talk about their lived experiences without being shut down.” Then, he says, we can look at what must be done to achieve economic, political, cultural and structural change. In other news, an Oxfordshire County Council-run youth justice service has recently been rated ‘good’ overall, in a report published by the HM Inspectorate of Probation. “Justin Russell,” reads ‘Connected’, “praised the ‘innovative’ range of work being done to help children who had been victims or were at risk of exploitation through initiatives including clinics run by Oxfordshire police and specialist drug workers to identify children most at risk from county lines drug dealing. Inspectors also highlighted the use of creative arts to help children explore and tell their personal stories including a project involving a recording artist working with groups of children who had been groomed by drugs gangs.” The strategy of using music as a storytelling tool resonated with him, still a member of 90s hit-makers, Damage. Before the band, he

Damage © Rahsaan Jas Photography

attended Sylvia Young Theatre School, and landed roles in operas, musicals, adverts and Grange Hill. “Then I managed to transition and meet four guys, we set up Damage and went on to sell millions of records.” This year the group took part in The Boys Are Back tour alongside 5ive, a1 and 911, completing most of the gigs before lockdown – the remaining dates will hopefully take place next year. “It was incredible,” the performer recalls, “we got to meet people across the UK who just love bands, love music, and we had phenomenal evenings.” Early on in 2020, he says, towards the end of an interview somewhat about the horror of humanity, Damage came into contact with its loveliness. “I’m so glad we had that experience of what humanity can be.”

tlguk.co.uk JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


88 | SUSTAINABILITY

Love, Labour and Lessons SAM BENNETT

U

sually at this time of year, the area in which Jane Davidson lives – on the margins of Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire – is brimming with visitors. But it is of course quieter right now, granting residents less-disturbed contact with “all the fantastic countryside and nature”. On her website, her husband Guy documents the produce they grow. I point out they’ve acres to do it with, not meaning to sound bitter towards the former minister for environment, sustainability and housing in Wales. “We have,” she says, “although we leave most of it alone.” This year, with the land they do use, they’re growing roughly 100 different kinds of fruit and veg. She’s always maintained you don’t need a profusion of plot to grow your own, an acre more than enough to feed those under her (solar panelled) roof. With announcements about the easing of lockdown measures in England due later that day, she’s “delighted” the Welsh government are acting more cautiously. “Wales has kept a different public health model to England,” she resumes, a daughter of doctors, saying whereas the latter have public health doctors sitting in local government, the former appoints

No proposition was too radical for Rhodri Morgan OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

them directors of its health boards – “a really important distinction in the context of being able to successfully manage the outcomes [of epidemics and pandemics].” We also speak the day after many people gathered on Oxford High Street, beneath Oriel College’s statue of imperialist Cecil Rhodes, calling for the monument’s removal. Her book, #futuregen: Lessons from a Small Country covers her upbringing in Rhodesia – named after Rhodes – about which she writes: Three incidents over a period of years penetrated my idyll enough to start me seeing the worm in my Eden, the racism underpinning the right-wing Rhodesian Front government after the United Declaration of Independence from the U.K. in 1965. Statues denote a moment in time, says the pro vice-chancellor emeritus at University of Wales Trinity Saint David, “and that moment in time is normally where the rich and powerful have decided to erect a standardbearer for their


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values. So erecting a standard-bearer for the values of racism has to be totally unacceptable now, the time for removing symbols of racism and imperialism is now.” Southern Rhodesia is now Zimbabwe, to which she’s yet to return. “I want to,” she says. “I’ve always promised my children we would go back on a significant birthday.” She doesn’t like to fly due to the emissions, “but I don’t want to outlaw love miles. So I will take my family and relive my childhood with them, because none of them have seen where I was brought up, where my values were created, where I fell in love with nature. We will plant the requisite amount of trees,” she adds, by way of addressing the journey’s emissions – the importance of understanding how our actions impact the planet one of the “simple messages” in #futuregen, which also explains how the Well-being of Future Generations (Wales) Act 2015 came to be. The former Labour AM for Pontypridd sums up this legislation in a sentence, as a law “that enables the people of Wales to hold their government and public services to account for delivering on policies and laws that will benefit current and future generations”. It can be dated back to 1987 and the Brundtland Commission’s definition of sustainable development. Twentyeight years later, the National Assembly for Wales (as of May 2020, ‘Senedd Cymru’) put it into law. Davidson left politics in 2011, believing in a maximum number of terms for ministers, “so although I left them with this proposition and saw it into the programme for government, it was others who took it into law. They did it with an enormous exercise, working with charities and groups across Wales.” Not only was Wales the first country in the world to take the definition into law, it is now one of the best recyclers globally, having been one of the worst. It was also the first UK country to introduce a plastic bag charge. Davidson led the work on recycling and carriers, as well as on creating the Wales Coast Path. “A lot of this was about having a first minister in Rhodri Morgan,” she says, “who trusted us as ministers. No proposition was too radical for him if he saw it as something about defining a new Wales that was going to be ambitious but also look after the health of its communities; that was going to celebrate its language, culture and global role.” For Morgan, she also led the steps that turned Wales into the world’s first fair trade nation in 2008. It’s worth pointing out as well, that Welsh Labour were in coalition with Plaid Cymru from 2007-2011, “a two-party government delivering”. When Morgan said he was going to retire, she recalls, people suggested she stand for the first minister role. “I couldn’t think of anything

Manda Tudge

CARBON CHRONICLES Mission: Reduce my carbon emissions by 50% by 2021. Now: 10 tonnes (agh). Goal: 5 tonnes (better, but the ideal target is 2 tonnes...) This month I’m looking into how to make my summer holiday more carbon friendly. Admittedly, the words summer holiday aren’t eliciting the kind of untethered excitement they usually do. But, I have had an interesting few hours dreaming about exotic destinations and finding out about how to plan (future) holidays without busting my carbon budget. Having calculated my carbon, a third of my emissions (3.5 tonnes) come from travel and that comes mostly from commuting. A further tonne is generated by eating out and entertainment. So, how does my yearly two-week holiday add up and how can I reduce my impact? I haven’t flown for a few years, but I’d like to know how flying checks out compared to other modes of transport. A return flight to Thailand uses about 3.5 tonnes of carbon per person and a more local flight, say, to France, is around half a tonne. We normally ferry and drive to our holiday destination and I assume that’s the low carbon option. But is it? Driving a small petrol car to the south of France, with a family of four there and back, is 0.2 tonnes and the ferry adds on another 20kgs, so it is a much lower carbon option than flying. Stress levels may be higher of course, especially on a hot day with a glove compartment filled with ripe brie (never to be forgiven, but no regrets, it was bloody delicious). Looking at trains, they virtually always come out better than planes, often by a lot. However, the difference between train and plane can vary and there are some complicating factors. It depends on where you get your train and whether you get a slower lower carbon sleeper rather than a high speed TGV. Interestingly, French trains are low emission because most of the electricity comes from nuclear power, whereas Polish trains are high emission because the electricity is mostly generated by coal. If you want to look at specific journeys, the EcoPassenger website is brilliant. There’s a lot more to find out about the best places to stay and the choices we make when we get to our destination, which can be my summer project. This year, of course the summer holiday will be necessarily low carbon – I’m guessing camping… But hey, the idea of leaving a 5km radius is excitement enough at the moment, so farflung ventures can wait until next year.

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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SUSTAINABILITY | 91

worse,” she tells me. “To be a first minister or a prime minister is as much about politicking as it is about policy, and every single job I’ve done in my life has been about how to try and change policy for the better. My interest is policy, even now I’m an author – I want to use that means to change thinking about policy and law in respect of future generations.” She wasn’t engrossed in politics at university where – reading English and drama – she intended on being an actor, before going into the teaching profession, where she found herself troubled by Thatcher’s “major curriculum change which [threatened] the individuality and idiosyncrasy of those teachers we remember with love because they managed to impart learning to you in a way that was absolutely fascinating”. While she likes the structure of a national curriculum, “the idea that every moment in it is defined by government is a complete anathema to me.” She took her second teaching post shortly before the miners’ strike, she says, remembering the Conservative government’s “very callous attitude to the South Wales miners; no notion that there was going to be major alternative employment, no thought about it at that point. In climate change terms, the fact the coal industry has gone is a good thing, but you have to think about how you are going to change people’s job opportunities on the way.” The Tories’ removal of support for young people (namely the reduction of youth club funding) was the straw that broke the camel’s back, “the single specific action that actually made me go out and join a political party,” she states, once minister for education. “I was a passionate believer in informal education alongside formal. There were lots of kids who didn’t do well in school, but could often be leaders in an informal youth club setting.” Within a couple of years of signing up for Welsh Labour, she became a local councillor for Riverside (following somebody citing her as “gobby” and able to argue a case). Keen to not be “one of those politicians who only had a political life”, she continued to also run a youth and community centre. She went on to be a researcher for Rhodri Morgan, before joining what is now the Senedd and serving as the first Labour AM in Pontypridd where she lived. In #futuregen she talks about shortcomings as a politician, at one point writing: ‘Essentially, I had failed.’ We don’t often hear politicians admit to that, I say. “I think they should,” she responds, of the opinion that any government thinking the way to exercise their responsibility is to under no circumstances take any, contributes to the separation of politicians from the public. “People fail and succeed in things every day of their lives. From failing

you learn. There’s all this mantra about ‘we need to encourage people to fail’, and we don’t really mean encourage them to fail, we want to encourage them to learn from any failure – not penalising them for failing. You can fail by being brave and out there as a pioneer, and your next project might be hugely successful because of all the learning you undertake.” Speaking of success, I conclude this feature the day after Oriel’s governors have voted to remove the statue of Cecil Rhodes from the college façade. The time is, indeed, now. w.’ morro l do to ld wil r o w l the nera ry Ge oday, ecreta oing t

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There’s a Gorilla in Your Living Room LITA DOOLAN

With human activity becoming a threat to many species, opportunities to watch animals in their natural habitat are getting rarer. A smart device is the perfect tool to see wilderness close up without leaving a carbon footprint, so try out these exciting webcams to create a virtual safari.

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ebcams cut through time zones to bring the viewer closer to the natural world; see.cam hosts feeds from around the world including the Saguaro National Park with its nectar feeding bats whereas Houston Zoo’s webcam lets viewers zoom in close to watch giraffes nibbling lettuce (houstonzoo. org). Rural scenes are captured at Folly Farm to include goats jostling for food (folly-farm. co.uk), showing a good nature cam simulates a fun day out.

Twitter is a useful starting point to see the Big Five; follow @WildEarth tweets for an instant live safari. The footage gives the number of viewers also watching and this creates the sense of a shared event. Some of the explorations have commentary from local guides – check out the sunrise safaris. For informative Q&As about wilderness sustainability, look at explore.org which hosts close-ups with primates that share some of our DNA ancestry; this is seen on their Gorilla Forest Corridor feed. As well as insights into JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


94 | SUSTAINABILITY

habitat conservation, the site also provides views of the watering hole at Mpala Research Centre in Kenya. The sounds of the animals moving through their African habitat are relayed in fine detail to the comfort of a living room. Gripping feeds from similar conservation projects include the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary in Queensland (koala.net) and a donkey barn, showing animals waking up in the early morning sunlight (thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk). In the UK, ‘Rewilding’ is a buzzword and is being used to bring the wilderness back to Sussex at Knepp, which is an estate south of Horsham. Since 2001, the land has been devoted to a pioneering rewilding project. See its progress at knepp.co.uk. The advantage of placing a camera in a conservation area means food is strategically placed to draw animals to the location, making the footage rewarding to watch. Peanuts and honey are put out daily for the badgers at Caerlaverock so they visit every night along with the occasional otter, deer and brown hare (wwt.org.uk/wetland-centres/caerlaverock). A convenient substitute for having an aquarium at home is putting an underwater landscape on your desktop. This offers calm during busy days so try tuning into reefcam.tv; their camera is located off the coast of Grand Cayman and streams a view of marine life as it congregates ready to be cleaned by smaller species such as shrimp and gobies. See a whale easily by watching the Beluga Boat Underwater feed at explore.org. It’s a brilliant site to go whale watching. The blue water is seen clearly through the cameras and to get even closer to whales, look for conservation projects that share deeper experiences of the mammal like whalesong.net.

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020

Photo: Pavel Handrk


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It’s no surprise that with the increasing popularity of video on social media, some animals are gaining their own hashtag, such as #BadgerCamLive on Twitter for live feeds from Rydal, Ambleside. Hashtags are a fast way to bring wildlife onto the screen. Try searching for #AnimalsAtHome on Twitter or YouTube to discover a daily selection of new feeds such as talks with zookeepers. Animals with quirky characteristics are finding the spotlight fast along with their own media channels. YouTube is inspiring nature lovers to broadcast their own nature cam from their gardens. Active bird feeding stations are streamed by enthusiasts on birdwatchinghq.com where goldfinches, magpies and collared doves are all easy to spot.

Webcams create moments that are just as memorable as a visit made in person. In fact, animals can be even more playful when humans are not around. The joy of watching the penguin nest at Edinburgh Zoo with the penguins walking in and out of the water spray and jumping into the shallow pool is endearing (edinburghzoo.org.uk).

Image courtesy of Zoo Atlanta

Coastal birds that are more common to the sea edge can be viewed live on beach cams, such as magicseaweed.com which shows the Perranporth dunes and more. After enjoying all this animal magic it is great to discover that, thankfully, many of the animals featured have few natural predators. In the case of pandas this is because of the size of their jaw, as seen in Atlanta Zoo, zooatlanta.org.

Watching the animals go to sleep at night gives an intimate connection to the outside world. Although not all sleep for long – I read giraffes spend around 16 hours a day eating… and deservedly so. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


96 | HOMES

Bringing the Outdoors in EMBRACING NATURAL AND SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS IN YOUR HOME AMANDA HANLEY

To date, environmental concerns may not have been a focus in interior design, but that is changing. More and more designers and brands are starting to consider the environmental impact of the interior design process, from design and production to shipping and recycling. Now more than ever we are focusing on our health, wellbeing and the Earth’s dwindling resources. All of which makes it more apparent that bringing a sustainable and natural aesthetic into our homes is as essential as it is satisfying.

OX MAGAZINE JULY 2020


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GO GREEN As a colour, green has a vast spectrum; it’s all about choosing the right shade and tone. Green creates a relaxing atmosphere as it is associated with the outdoors, with nature, growth and creativity. As it is an organic shade, it is very easy to live with. Almost any shade of green works well in a townhouse. It brings a sense of nature to urban life, especially when combined with lighter colours, such as Farrow and Ball New White or All White. Lighter shades work well in country houses, linking inside and out; sage green can be particularly effective in a traditional bathroom or on woodwork in a classic hallway. The important thing is to pair whatever hue you choose with the right accent colour, to create a feeling of flow through the room. Many wallpaper suppliers are also going green, not just in their colour paths and designs, but in the production of wallpaper and are actively releasing new, eco-friendly options. Wallpaper manufacturers are continually striving to reduce material waste and energy consumption in all of their processes, from roll production to printing and packaging. This includes eco-friendly practices, such as using only the highest quality paper sourced from sustainable forests, certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC); and not using PVC or harmful solvents and toxic chemicals in production, working only with water-based inks and surface treatments. These wise and eco-friendly practices have resulted in beautiful, environmentally-friendly wallpapers, free from harmful substances but without any compromise in design quality, still crafted with passion and flare. This philosophy is one we expect to continue to develop and to be embraced in homes as we strive to build a greener future.

Picture courtesy of Sandberg Wallpapers © Sara Medina Lind

NATURAL COMFORTS Vincent Sheppard produce a fantastic range of sustainable indoor and outdoor Lloyd Loom furniture. This is a woven paper which looks like wicker, but much smoother and more comfortable, yet durable.

Incorporating natural fibres and textures such as rattan, wicker and wooden furniture into your décor will not only add a touch of nature, but can bring a sense of character, personality and warmth to your home. Furniture that can be used both inside and outside is in great demand and can bring the feel of the conservatory or glass house to other rooms in your home. When choosing furniture it is important to go for the practical but ensure your choices complement the rest of the available space. Keep base furniture colours neutral; this will allow colour and interest to be added with textured materials and accessories, such as rugs, cushions, lampshades and baskets.

Picture courtesy of Vincent Sheppard

FLOWER POWER Fresh flowers have traditionally been used to add decorative finishing touches to our homes. Now, however, faux flowers are so realistic that no-one would ever know and – with new manufacturing techniques – are being made from recycled materials. As ever, you do get what you pay for, so invest in the best you can afford. I am a great devotee of faux flowers as they are both easy to care for and excellent value for money. Putting together a bunch of faux flowers will instantly transform any room and brighten even the darkest of corners. And they will last much longer than real, seasonal offerings. JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


98 | XXXXXXX

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If you prefer a more formal look, faux flowers are available as ready-made arrangements, some even with a gel at the bottom of the vase to create a water effect. Depending on your preference, porcelain with brightly coloured blooms or lustrous OF C L IF TON COTSWOLDS foliage in pots, flowers and plants are an easy way to dress a room. They provide lasting colour and natural charm and can make any space feel properly finished and loved.

TOP TIPS ON CHOOSING YOUR FLOWERS • Group your items in odd numbers, as it makes them more attractive to look at. Don’t worry about perfection in your arrangement as a casual approach is often more effective. • Hanging plants like cacti and other succulents in planters and other receptacles will add greater visual impact to your space.

SET YOUR TABLE IN STYLE Think about accessorising with organic forms and natural colour tones to bring an outdoor feel to your table. Create atmospheric tablescapes by layering complementary earthy hues of beige and walnut, with the subtle textures of minimalist ceramics in natural tones. Placemats and coasters woven from jute are on-trend at the moment and will complement every table top, whether contemporary or traditional. This lightweight plantfibre material has an almost rope-like quality and sits beautifully against crisp linen napkins and glassware. Sprigs of faux flowers, or a fresh bouquet, make a stunning centrepiece and are a great way of adding bursts of colour. When contrasted with a wooden table, they will bring your entire setting still further back to nature.

• Try adding natural foliage from the garden to your arrangement. When paired with high-quality faux flowers, you won’t be able to tell the difference.

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• Last but not least, forget ‘less is more.’ More is definitely more!

ABOUT AMANDA HANLEY A friendly, Burford-based interior designer offering a long-established and highly regarded service. Amanda works across London to the Cotswolds and has built relationships with an enviable network of suppliers and craftsmen, giving her clients access to the very best services and home décor.

DON’T FORGET THE FRAGRANCE Luxury vegan soy wax and essential oil candles are perfect for creating a calm and inviting atmosphere in your home. They are carbonneutral and sustainable, with a long, clean burn time to care for the environment and are 100% natural and cruelty-free.

Amanda Hanley by Design at The Gallery, Burford, is a unique space packed with an unrivalled collection of hand-picked fabrics, wallpapers, lighting, mirrors, flooring, furniture and objets d’art to suit all budgets. Amanda sources her exclusive furniture stock on frequent buying trips to Belgium and France, as well as from prestigious brands like Mulberry Home, GP & J Baker, Colefax & Fowler, Romo, Designers Guild, Andrew Martin and Lewis & Wood. 07976 353996 | amandahanley.co.uk Amanda’s showroom: The Gallery, 69 High Street, Burford OX18 4QA

JULY 2020 OX MAGAZINE


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