Caring for your cat

Owning and caring for a cat is very rewarding, but it is a big responsibility and a long-term commitment in terms of care and cost.

Typically, cats live for around 14-16 years, but many may live for longer.

There is no single ‘perfect’ way to care for all cats because every cat and every situation is different.

Many cats are given outside access, whilst some may be kept as indoor only pets.

It’s up to you how you look after your cat, but you must take reasonable steps to ensure that you meet all their needs.

Do you know the five key things your cat needs to lead a healthy and happy life?

They are called the five animal welfare freedoms and the law requires you to provide these for all of your pets.

1. A safe & comfortable environment - give them a safe, clean and suitable place to live.

2. A suitable diet & fresh water feed them the right food for their age, health status and lifestyle.

3. The ability to express normal behaviour

4. A stress and fear free life

5. Good health care - keep your pet in good health and seek veterinary attention if they’re ill or injured.

1. Safe & comfortable environment

There are a few simple ways to keep your cat happy, safe and healthy at home.

1.1 A cosy bed to sleep in

On average, cats spend about 16 hours a day sleeping.

They generally rest or sleep intermittently throughout the day and will prefer to sleep undisturbed in a warm, comfortable, quiet and safe place.

1.2 Safe places to hide and get up high

Cats live in a three dimensional world, and therefore must be able to access high places. Not only does it allow them to feel safe and secure, but it also gives them the opportunity to survey their territory.

Vertical spaces provide escape routes during challenging times such as: 

Over exuberant children in the home. 

Tension in multi cat households.  Unwanted attention from other animals. 

Unfamiliar visitors or scary noises such as the hoover or fireworks.

Cats often prefer to rotate their chosen sleeping area so you may find them sleeping in different places.

There are so many different types of cat beds you can purchase from flat donut shaped beds to cosy igloos.

It is not just the shape, size or fabric of a bed that matters, it can often be simply the position of the bed that will either attract or deter a cat from using it. Giving your cat a choice will help you establish what she likes.

You will also need to provide hiding places at ground level.

A hiding place can be something as simple as a cardboard box on its side, an igloo style cat bed, a space under the bed, or a wardrobe with the door left ajar.

Cats shouldn’t be disturbed whilst in their hiding place. They should be able to see the door to the room from their hidey hole, so they won’t be startled.

Different climbing options for cats

There are various options for creating appropriate three dimensional living spaces, regardless of budget and size of your home.

Cat climbing furniture can range from simple cat shelving and window perches to multi level walkways. There are hundreds of ideas on the internet so take a look and see what you could create.

They should be able to access their toileting site without having to pass other cats or things that make them anxious such as a noisy washing machine.

The litter tray must be kept clean and free from faeces and urine. Unless you use a clumping type litter it should be emptied at least once a day – otherwise, your cat will refuse to use it and may mess on the floor instead.

You will need to provide the same litter as what they are used to from their previous home/rescue centre and find out if your new cat prefers open or enclosed litter trays. If you are unsure provide a choice to work out what they prefer.

It is a good idea to provide one litter tray per cat, plus one extra in a different location – especially if your cats are kept indoors.

1.3 Somewhere to go to the toilet regularly

Either in a suitable area outside or in a litter tray inside well away from where they eat and sleep.

Cats prefer to pass their waste where they feel safe and then bury it.

If possible, place trays in different quiet, private areas of the home, away from the food and water bowls.

Most cats prefer to use a litter tray that is easy to get into and large enough for them to turn around in with ease. For adult cats, the recommended size is one and a half times the length of your cat, from their nose to the base of their tail.

If you are housetraining a new kitten, it’s a good idea to add a little of the old litter to the fresh litter when cleaning the tray this will encourage them to use it until they are fully housetrained.

Make any changes to the tray, the litter, or its location, very slowly to avoid toileting accidents.

If your cat does mess anywhere other than the litter its extremely important not to shout at them or punish them, as they will not associate this punishment with going to the toilet in the wrong place.

It will only make them fearful of you and going to the toilet in generalcausing behaviour problems.

If you are encouraging your cat to go to the toilet outside, you will need to provide a suitable area close to the house where your cat feels safe.

Cats like to go to the toilet in a private area such as in between bushy plants in a boarder and even better if it has loose soil or wood chippings for them to dig.

An outdoor raised bed with nice loose light soil and or wood chippings will encourage your cat to go to the toilet in an area that won’t disturb your neighbours or damage your plants!

Cats are free roaming creatures and have a natural tendency to wander.

It can be hard to keep them to the confines of your own garden.

At the same time it can be very annoying for neighbours to see your cat going to the toilet in their garden so you need to encourage your cat to go to the toilet in your garden.

If your cat starts going to the toilet in the wrong place in your home their may be a behavioural or medical issue causing this.

Please see our leaflet on house training your cat for more information.

1.4 Safety from poisonous plants, household items and other dangers

Did you know there are many plants that are harmful to cats and kittens?

A few of the more common houseplants/cut flowers are Chrysanthemums, Lilies, Cyclamen and Amaryllis.

There are many more plants that are poisonous to cats but the main plant group to be aware of is lilies.

Contact your vet promptly if your cat has eaten any part of a lily or pollen has brushed onto their fur.

Always keep your cat away from domestic products such as paint, and varnish removers, household cleaning products, rust remover, glue and fire extinguisher chemicals, as they can all cause poisoning.

The fumes from products such as varnish and paint remover can also be dangerous, so don’t let your cat in the room when you are using them, and wait until the fumes have dispersed before letting the cat back in.

Some types of weed killers (those containing paraquat) are extremely dangerous for pets and humans alike.

Antifreeze is extremely toxic –store and dispose of it safely.

Special cat grass is good to give to cats if they like to eat grass or chew on plants. Many cats eat grass to help them get rid of fur balls!

Chemical Poisons

Keep all cleaning and garden chemicals safely shut away, and keep your cat out of the way when using them.

Rat and mice poisons are another hazard for cats – both through eating the bait, and from catching poisoned rodents. Many of these poisons are coloured for easy identification – so if you have seen the bait, make a note of the colour.

Slug pellets particularly those containing metaldehyde are poisonous. Either use a non toxic form of slug control, or cover treated areas with chicken wire so that pets cannot get to them.

Nemaslug and Growing Success slug killer are safer alternatives.

Gables doesn’t recommend keeping a cat that is used to going outside, as an ‘indoor-only cat’ unless it is for health or safety reasons. It can cause a lot of stress and frustration.

Falling from height

Cats love to climb, but they can also fall. Falls from balconies are common and can cause horrific injuries that can be fatal. Prevent falls by making balconies and windows safe with wire mesh. If your cat does fall from more than one storey, he should be checked by your vet, even if your cat appears to be fine, there is a risk of internal injuries. Get your cat checked after any fall if he seems to be behaving strangely.

1.5 Access outside or not?

Keeping cats indoors

Cats can adapt well to an indoor life if they are kept indoors from an early age, but cats that have been used to going outside may find it more difficult to adapt.

If your cat doesn’t have the freedom to go outside, you still need to provide everything they need to stay healthy and happy. Make sure they have enough space to exercise, climb and play indoors and include a variety of resting places for them to use.

Giving cat’s access outside

Roads are the greatest danger for cats. It is a good idea to keep your cat indoors at night (serving a tasty treat at nightfall encourages your cat to come home!).

Making your home and garden/ yard as interesting and fun as you can will encourage your cat to stay close to home. As cats get older they tend to stay home more, so if you do live by a busy road getting an older cat will be much safer.

A reflective collar makes your pet more visible, but make sure you use a safety collar not an elasticated or buckled one as they can cause horrific injuries.

Neutering makes your cat less inclined to roam.

Cat flaps

A cat flap is a good way to give your cat access to your garden. But a conventional one also allows other cats to enter your home.

This intrusion can be very stressful for cats and can be linked to stress-related medical problems.

But a solution is easy: choose a cat flap that operates by a microchip, so it will only open for your cat.

2. Healthy diet

Your cat needs a well balanced diet to stay fit and healthy as well as access to clean drinking water at all times.

How much your cat needs to eat will depend on things such as age, how active they are and their general health.

If they eat more or less food than necessary, they will become overweight/underweight and may suffer.

Cats need a meat based diet to stay fit and healthy so your cat is not suited to a vegetarian or vegan diet.

Cats of different ages have different nutritional requirements. One of the best ways of ensuring your cat has the right nutrients is to feed it according to its ‘life stage’.

Kitten Adult Senior

We highly recommend these and sell them in our shop. Your cat doesn’t then have to live outdoors in extreme weather conditions until he is let in or be shut inside until you come home.

If your cat cannot control his environment he will become quite stressed and frustrated.

Kittens need more calories because they have so much growing to do and senior cats need fewer calories as they are less active.

To ensure your cat gets all the nutrients they need you will need to feed them wet or dry commercially made cat food. There’s a wide range of products now available, in either dry or wet form, but whatever prepared food you choose, always read the manufacturer’s instructions.

Feed your cat every day, preferably splitting the daily ration into several small meals throughout the day.

Food should be placed in an area where the cat feels safe and away from their water bowl and litter tray.

If you have more than one cat feed them far away from each other even if they are good friends!

Always ask your vet for advice on what, and how much, to feed your cat and once you’ve found a balanced diet which suits them, stick to it.

Treats are a nice surprise for your cat but they should be given in moderation or she may pile on the pounds! Try to stick to cat food treats rather than leftovers or raw meat, although a little bit of well cooked fresh chicken or fish is okay.

If your cat eats dry food, using feeding balls to give some, or all, of your cat’s daily food ration can help to lessen boredom and provides some exercise.

Changing diets suddenly can lead to upset stomachs. Ask your vet for advice if you need to change your cat’s diet due to their age or health problems.

Cats cannot be fed dog food, as it doesn't contain all the nutrients they need. They need higher protein levels and dog food can give your cat an upset stomach.

Weight watch

There are a few simple regular checks you can make yourself to help check that your cat is a healthy weight:



Make sure you can see and feel the outline of your cat’s ribs without excess fat covering.



Your cat’s belly should be tucked up when viewed from the side.



You should be able to see and feel your cat’s waist and it should be clearly visible when viewed from above.



If you are in any doubt about your cat’s weight, always talk your vet.

Some cats are simply fussy eaters but they may also stop eating because of stress or illness.

If your cat stops eating



Try offering a range of different wet and dry foods at different times making sure you introduce new foods slowly.



Try offering wet food at room temperature rather than straight from the fridge in general, cats prefer this.

Try tempting a fussy cat by warming food up a little to increase the aroma - make sure it is not too hot!



Try sitting down with your cat, stroking her on her cheeks and head and encourage her to eat.



Look at the location of where you are putting your cats food bowl. She may not like it and a change of location to a quieter spot can help.

Most importantly get her checked by your vet as she may have something wrong with her teeth, which is causing her pain.

Water

Some cats choose to drink from a natural water source, such as a puddle or pond outside, because they dislike the taste of chlorinated water or the taint from a plastic bowl. Even in these situations, fresh water should still always be available indoors in case their outdoor source dries up or becomes inaccessible. Ceramic or glass bowls are preferred by cats.

Others prefer a dripping tap, or to dip their paw into the water and drink off their paw.

Don’t give them milk it can cause diarrhoea and stomach problems.

Cats that are fed on an entirely dry diet tend to drink more water, but if your cats drinking habits change, e.g. she is noticeably drinking more water or less, this may be an indication of a medical problem so contact your Vet.

3. Ability to express normal behaviour

3.1 Handling cats

Just like us, most cats want love and attention too. Keep all interactions with your cat short and sweet. Always allow her to move away if she wants to she should never feel ‘trapped’ by you.

Most cats are quite nervous by nature so you will need to handle them gently, quietly and carefully to build a bond. They should then enjoy and seek out your love and attention.

They do prefer attention on their terms instead of yours so once you get to know your cat, you will understand her preferences.

Don’t immediately walk up to your cat and pick her up. First, get to know her and let her smell you and check you out.

Stroke her lightly on her head and cheeks, and if she feels comfortable you can run your hand down onto her shoulders. Speak to her in calm, soothing tones.

Most cats are not keen on you touching or stroking their tummieseven if they roll on their backs when you are interacting with them! Using treats will help you gain their trust and associate handling with good things!

Cats don’t like loud or sudden movements, so when you are around your cat be quiet and move slowly.

Once she gets to know you and your family she will feel more confident and settled.

If you have quite a loud and busy home then make sure your cat has somewhere to hide and get away from the noise and hussle and bussle of family life.

Not all cats enjoy being picked up but are happier to be fussed on their terms. These cats have often had a bad experience when being handled in the past, or have had a lack of handling when they were very young.

Cats are naturally ‘flight’ animals so if they are scared or intimidated they are going to make all efforts to get away.

This may mean that they inadvertently scratch or bite in order to make their escape quickly. By letting the cat be handled in its own time, the chances of this happening are greatly reduced.

Food rewards are a great way to interact with your cat and encourage positive handling.

Cats generally feel more secure when they have all four feet on the ground. Nervous cats find the notion of being picked up quite a stressful one so it is more important to let these cats demonstrate affection on their terms rather than imposing it on them.

They may prefer to be stroked and groomed where they choose to settle by you this is also an effective way of bonding with your new cat.

An important trait to remember about cats is that they generally don’t like change so if you do anything to their routine or your home such as DIY or moving furniture make any changes gradually.

3.2 Socialisation

Cats need to be socialised from a young age, which means gradually introducing them to everyday sights, sounds, smells, different people of all ages and other pets in your home.

It is also extremely important to make sure kittens are handled gently as much as possible. This is one of the most important things for a young kitten to experience, especially in the first ten weeks of their life.

Good, early socialisation leads to friendly, well adjusted cats. Sadly, without positive early experiences, cats can become nervous, which often leads to problem behaviour, including aggression.

Although cats spend most of their day sleeping, when they are awake they love to play. A game with your cat can be fun for both of you, and gives her the chance to use her natural stalking and chasing instincts. All you have to do is provide the prey!

Games are important for cats as it stops them getting frustrated, destructive and aggressive. If your cat is an indoor cat then play is even more important.

Even senior cats love to play - it keeps their minds active and is great for their mobility.

Play is a great form of exercise, which cats need daily, as it will help to control their weight.

Cats that have free access to the outdoors will often engage in hunting activity, including playing with fallen leaves or grass blowing in the wind if there is no access to prey.

The drive to hunt in domestic pet cats is not triggered by hunger. Each part of the hunting activity the stalk, pounce, play and kill releases feel-good hormones called endorphins.

This is why it is important that our pet cats are given frequent opportunities to play to keep them mentally stimulated.

Toys

A cat’s natural instinct is to hunt, so toys that allow them to ‘pounce on’ and ‘kill’ their prey are ideal. Toys like laser pens can leave a cat frustrated as they can’t finish the play with a ‘kill’. If you’re going to use a laser pen, aim it at a toy they can bite and ‘kill’ so they can fully express their natural behaviour.

The best kinds of toys to encourage this natural behaviour are those that move quickly and unpredictably.

3.3 What’s normal behaviour for my cat and how can I encourage it?

Toys don’t have to be expensive. A cardboard box with holes cut into it provides a fun hiding place. Even a ball of tin foil makes a perfectly adequate toy, as long as the cat can’t swallow it.

Play is more fun if you get involved too – you could use fishing rod toys with feathers on a string to mimic their prey! Allow them to catch and ‘kill’ the toy periodically to avoid frustration.

Try making some homemade toys. A squashed piece of paper makes a good toy or toilet rolls taped together with tasty treats hidden in them is a very cheap way to entertain your cat.

Older cats will love playing three or four times a day, while younger cats will be happy to play ten times a day or more. Very short games of one to five minutes are fine.

However, play can easily turn into aggression, so here are some tips to help you both enjoy it: 

Don’t allow your cat to chase or bite your fingers or toes, it may really hurt and you don’t want them to learn that this is what they should play with!

They need to learn to play with toys instead to prevent any issues developing in the future. Use cat toy wands if you want them to chase toys. These are great for children to use as it keeps the cats teeth and claws away from delicate skin! 

Swap toys around regularly to keep them interesting. 

Limit time with any toys that encourage over-excitement/ stimulation. 

Hide some dry food or treats around the house so your cat can search them out. You can also try making some puzzle feeders instead of feeding your cat in bowls.

Try cat trees, novelty cat boxes and activity centres. 

If your cat gets over excited and bites or scratches you, stop the play and move away from the cat. Leave the room if necessary.

Scratching

Cats naturally use objects to scratch, to mark their territory, strengthen their muscles and sharpen their claws.

A scratch post will give your cat a place to do this, which is not your furniture!

Provide your cat with a sturdy scratching post that is tall enough for them to use fully stretched, especially if they don’t go outdoors.

Cat Nip, a natural herb which cats love, can help persuade your cat to use a scratcher.

Cats love to observe their surroundings from height so cat trees are a great resource for cats and they absolutely love them. The bigger and higher the better!

Cats like to stretch and scratch after they wake up and after they eat so try placing the scratch post in these areas.

To deter your cat from scratching in inappropriate places, cover them with plastic or tin foil.

Remember to praise the cat when she uses the scratching post.

Provide enough resources

If you have more than one cat, make sure you provide enough litter trays, toys, scratching posts or mats, beds and hiding places for all of them, as well as enough space for them to get away from each other if they want to.

You should always provide a spare, so if you’ve two cats/kittens, provide three of everything, spaced out around the house, in different rooms.

Cats also see their owners as a resource so make sure you devote time to them daily, and divide your time equally between your cats, if you have more than one

The way a cat behaves depends on their age, personality and past experiences frightening experiences and punishment can lead to behaviour problems.

4. A stress and fear free life

A new home, moving house and new additions to a family of the human and animal variety can be very stressful for a cat. They are very sensitive to change and noise.

Cats do not show their emotions as well as some other species and tend to withdraw and become quiet rather than 'act out' their anxieties.

It therefore becomes necessary for owners to appreciate the subtle signs of stress in their own cats in order to provide the best possible care. Chronic stress can suppress the immune response, causing a broad range of illnesses.

Here are some signs of stress you'll want to watch out for in your cat, especially if they occur suddenly. If you see any of these signs consult your Vet straight away. 

Urinating outside the litter tray.

Diarrhoea, constipation or other digestive issues.

Excessive grooming.

Excessive scratching.

Excessive vocalization.

Decrease in appetite.

Increased sleeping or lethargy.  Aggression towards other animals. 

Aggression towards people.

Why are some cats shy or fearful?

Shy or fearful behaviour is most often caused by negative associations made in early life. If a cat doesn’t interact with people often or experiences abuse or trauma, later, he may be afraid to trust humans. Other shy or fearful cats may be that way simply because they’re genetically predisposed to be that way.

What are common fear triggers? 

A loud noise or a quick movement.

A strange environment.

A strange person or animal. 

An active child. 

A stressful event, such as a move or a trip to the vet.

When cats feel threatened, they usually respond in three ways to the object, person or situation they perceive as a threat: fight, flee or freeze. Each cat has his/her preferred way of dealing with a crisis.

They usually try one option first, and if that doesn't work, try a different option.

Here are some signs of

Fixed position. 

fear

to look out for: 

Body – crouched directly on top of all fours, shaking. 

Belly not exposed, rapid breathing.  Legs – bent.  Tail close to the body.

Head – lower than the body, motionless. 

Eyes – fully open.

Pupils fully dilated.  Ears fully flattened back on the head.

Whiskers back.  Vocalisation – plaintive meow, yowling, growling or silent.  Hissing, growling, shaking, drooling.  Involuntary urination, defecation.  Aggression if approached.

What you can do

Take the following steps to reduce your cat's anxiety and help her become more confident:

First, schedule an appointment with your vet for a thorough physical examination to rule out any medical reasons for your cat's behaviour.

If your cat is healthy, but hiding, leave her alone. She'll come out when she's ready. To force her out of her hiding spot will only make her more fearful.

Make sure she has easy access to food, water and her litter tray from her hiding place. Clean the litter tray and change the food and water every day so you know whether she is eating and drinking. Food is a great motivator for cats, so if yours is afraid of someone in the house, give that person feeding duty.

Keep any contact with the fear stimulus to a minimum or eradicate the fear stimulus altogether if possible.

Keep your cat's routine as regular as possible. Cats feel more confident if they know when to expect daily feeding, playing, cuddling and grooming.

Contact a professional animal behaviourist to help you and your cat .

What not to do

Don't punish your cat for her fearful behaviour. Animals associate punishment with what they're doing at the time they are punished, so your cat is likely to associate any punishment you give her with you and she still won't understand why she's being punished.

Don't force her to experience the object or situation that is causing her fear.

5. Good health care

5.1 Vaccinations

Vaccinations give protection for your cat and peace of mind for you. They protect your cat against diseases which can cause pain, distress and are often fatal. They also prevent diseases from being passed on to other animals.

The primary vaccination course for cats varies with the type of vaccine used. The first vaccine is normally given at eight to nine weeks of age, with the second part given two to four weeks later.

Booster vaccinations are needed as the body’s immune response gradually fades over time.

Ask your vet when it’s best to vaccinate your cat.

5.2 Grooming



Cat flu. 

Feline chlamydia. 

Feline infectious enteritis. 

Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV).

Due to cost restrictions Gables does not vaccinate against FeLV so if you do have a cat from us you will need to get this extra vaccination done.

Your kitten should receive a primary vaccination course early in life, followed by ‘booster’ vaccinations and a health check every year.

Cats are very clean animals and like to groom themselves, but sometimes they may need a little help.

Grooming also gives you some valuable bonding time with your cat as well as providing a great opportunity to keep an eye out for parasites in the cat’s coat.

Long-haired cats should be brushed daily to stop their coat becoming tangled. If they are not regularly groomed fur can become matted and uncomfortable. These mats may need to be removed under anaesthetic by a vet.

Short-haired cats will probably only need to be groomed once or twice a week.

Which diseases do vaccines protect against?

Older cats may struggle to look after their coats and require gentle grooming daily to help to keep their skin healthy. Their joints might become stiff and a bit painful so they may not be able to reach certain areas.

There is no reason to bathe your cat, as this will cause distress and also may damage their coat.

Occasionally your vet may recommend a shampoo to treat specific skin problems if you need to use a prescription shampoo, follow the vet’s advice carefully and use it only as frequently as recommended.

Keep an eye out for red bumps, dry flakes of skin and flea droppings.

5.3 Neutering

What is neutering?

Neutering is an operation carried out by a vet. In male animals, the testicles are removed – this is called ‘castration’. In female animals, the ovaries and the uterus (womb) are removed – this is called ‘spaying’.

Why do it?

Neutering stops cats from having unwanted kittens and, in female cats, prevents certain illnesses, such as cancer of the ovaries or womb, or pyometra (an infection of the womb which can be fatal). Female kittens should be spayed before they are four months old. At this age she will start to attract the attention of male cats and could become pregnant.

Neutering can make male cats less likely to fight; this can then reduce their chances of getting feline AIDS (FIV), which is spread by bites and scratches. Neutered male cats are also less likely to wander off, which can reduce their chances of getting hit by a car, and they’re less likely to spray urine in the house. Male kittens should also be neutered before they are 4 months old.

Did you know your female cat doesn’t need to have a litter before she is spayed? And kittens will mate with their litter mates and parents?

5.4 Preventing parasites

The most common parasites in cats are fleas, ticks and worms?

Signs include:

• Fur loss.

• Inflamed (reddened) skin.

• Scratching, biting or licking more than usual.

• Pot bellied appearance.

 Vomiting and diarrhoea.

 Presence of parasites.

My cat/kitten is showing some of these signs – what should I do?

First take your cat/kitten to see your vet so they can advise on the correct course of treatment, as there are so many different types.

Preventive parasite treatments include sprays, tablets, injections and ‘spot on’ preparations.

Treatments available ‘over the counter’ (for example, from pet shops and supermarkets) may not be as effective as those available from your vet – so bear this in mind if you want your pet to be properly protected.

Fleas

Fleas are very common in cats but can be hard to spot.

It’s advisable to use preventative treatment on your cat regularly for fleas, whether she has them or not, as it is far harder to deal with an infestation than to prevent one.

Fleas are not just an inconvenience. Their saliva is considered one of the most allergenic substances on earth, and is the cause of a nasty skin disease in pets called Flea Allergic Dermatitis (FAD).

When they bite, fleas ingest blood. If the infestation is severe enough, it can cause anaemia or even kill a small puppy or kitten.

Never use a dog flea treatment on your cat as some can be fatal. Don’t let your cat come into contact with a dog that has been treated for fleas until the product has dried.

If you do have a flea outbreak, you will need to treat all the pets in the home and de flea your home too. Treat carpets, the bottoms of curtains, furniture, and your cat’s bedding with a suitable product recommended by your vet.

Always wash your pets bedding at a high temperature to kill off any parasites or bugs.

Fleas are also the intermediate host of the tapeworm. Therefore it is important to remember when treating your cat for fleas, to treat her for tapeworms too.

Worms

Cats can become infected with various internal worms.

Roundworms are the most common type of worm affecting cats and dogs in the UK.

Tapeworms can be caught from fleas, which can carry the larval stages of the tapeworm. When your pet grooms itself, it can accidentally ingest a flea, which can lead to a tapeworm infestation in your pet.

There are many different treatments available and your vet will be able to advise you about how often to de worm your cat and the most suitable, effective product to use, which may depend on your cat’s lifestyle.

Ticks

Ticks are common in woodland, grassland and heath areas, but can also be found in your garden if you live in an area with lots of wildlife.

You are most likely to come across ticks between spring and autumn, but they are active throughout the year.

Ticks don’t fly or jump, but climb or drop on to your cat’s coat when they brush past the area they are sitting in. Cat ticks carry diseases, so it is important to remove any that attach themselves to your cat as soon as possible. Rapid removal lessens the risk of disease.

This can be tricky, as you need to be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body, or allow its head to get stuck inside your cat. Squeezing a tick’s body can cause it to expel blood back into your cat, increasing the risk of infection.

Twisting them off your cat is the best removal method, and pet shops sell handy tick removal devices to make this easier. Ask your vet for advice.

5.5 Microchipping

Many pets go missing every year and, sadly, many are never reunited with their owners.

Identifying your cat with a microchip gives a greater chance of being reunited with your cat, should they get lost and they are more likely to receive prompt veterinary care if found injured!

A microchip is a harmless radio chip about the size of a grain of rice and is injected under the skin of your cat in the same way as a routine vaccination.

If you adopt a cat or kitten from a reputable rescue centre they should already be microchipped.

Once your cat is microchipped, remember to make sure your contact details are always kept up-to-date with the microchip database.

5.6 Dental care

Looking after your cats’ teeth is just as important as looking after our own. Its not really practical or safe to brush your cats teeth, so you will need to make sure your cat is seen by a vet regularly.

Do kittens have baby and adult teeth?

Yes - your kitten will start to lose their baby teeth around three months of age. You may find they want to bite things more so be sure to provide plenty of suitable toys for them to chew on cardboard boxes are great for this. They normally have a full set of adult teeth around six months of age.

There are specially designed foods, toys and chews available to help keep your cats’ teeth clean.

If you do choose to put a collar on your cat, use a ‘quick release’ collar to allow your cat to free himself should the collar get caught on something. Fit it carefully two fingers should snugly fit between your cat’s neck and the collar. Sadly, severe injuries resulting from poorly fitted collars or those with no quick release function are not uncommon.

Dental disease is quite common in cats, especially as they get older. You should get your cat’s teeth regularly checked by your vet.

Many cats do not show obvious discomfort, although signs of dental disease may include:

• Reduced appetite.

• Halitosis (bad breath).

• Dropping food or difficulty in eating.

• Blood tinged saliva or drooling.

• Unusual face rubbing or pawing at the mouth.

• Behavioural changes, such as becoming quieter or more aggressive.

• Reduced grooming.

• Sneezing, nasal discharge or facial swelling.

Dental disease can be painful and seriously affect your cat’s health and welfare. Bacteria can enter the cat’s bloodstream and affect the heart and kidneys. Consult your vet for more advice.

5.7 Pet insurance

At Gables we recommend you take out pet insurance to ensure you’re able to cover unplanned vet bills, should the worst happen. You might have thought about routine costs, such as vaccinations. But out of the ordinary expenses can easily happen. Costs can rise rapidly, especially if your cat needs to stay in the Vet Hospital.

Research pet insurance policies before you buy and check for policy limitations. Policies vary when it comes to the level of cover they offer. In addition, each company will apply their own conditions and exclusions to their policies.

5.8 Who should care for my cat if I go on holiday?

Cats become very attached to places so if you are going away, try to find a responsible person to care for, and meet all of your cat’s welfare needs within his/her familiar home. If this isn’t possible, your cat should be boarded at a reputable cattery. We offer a cat boarding service here at Gables, which raises funds for the welfare work we do.

If you are boarding your cat, check out the cattery in advance and make sure it is licensed. Good catteries will insist that all animals are fully vaccinated and will ask to see certificates. Also check that the cattery is never left unattended. Taking familiar items along when your cat goes into the cattery, e.g. your cat’s bed and toys, can help them feel more ‘at home’.

We hope you have found this leaflet useful. Please feel free to contact us for more information or see our other leaflets for more detail. We hope you enjoy your new cat.