Introducing dogs & cats

Introducing dogs and cats

Bringing a new pet into your home and introducing it to your resident pet can be quite nerve racking.

You want them all to get on together and welcome the new addition into the house, but this seldom happens quite so easily even though your reason for getting another pet may be to keep your resident pet company, it may not rush out and welcome the newcomer with open paws!

Careful introductions can help to smooth the way towards harmonious merging of animals.

Controlling the situation rather than leaving the animals to sort it out for themselves will give a much better chance of a smooth meeting and the best possible start together.

Surprisingly, it can be easier to introduce a cat to a dog than a cat to another cat/s.

This is because a cat won’t view a dog as competition for resources – it might have to get used to its excited behaviour and learn to stand up to it to avoid being chased, but this usually happens very quickly and much more easily than we imagine.

Introducing a new cat to an existing dog

Unfamiliar pets should be introduced very slowly in the hope that they will ultimately perceive each other to be in the same social group, or at least peacefully cohabit. This can be helped by providing plenty of resources in a variety of different places in the home to avoid conflict and competition.

Unfortunately, all too often, cats and dogs are introduced without sufficient time and resources to successfully integrate. The result can be two pets forced to cohabit under stress. Behavioural problems may result, or they may become withdrawn or intolerant of attention.

The tips on the following pages, together with patience and understanding, will help you ensure that initial introductions start off long and happy relationships.

If you succeed, not only will your pets be happy, but you will be rewarded with the frequent delight of watching charming interactions between them.

Stage 1 Setting up a room for your new cat

Confinement in a kitten pen or dog crate can be very distressing for a cat so this isn’t necessarily the best method of introduction.

A better alternative is to confine the new cat in a room initially and introduce the resident dog to the newcomer gradually. This room should be an area where your dog doesn’t spend much time.

The new cat should be settled into the room with the following resources: 

Food and water, cats like to drink away from where they eat, so place the food and water bowls in separate areas sited away from the litter tray. 

Somewhere to hide - It is very important for cats to have somewhere to hide e.g. a cardboard box on its side, or under the bed – particularly when adapting to a new environment.

A viewing platform. Cats love to view their surroundings from a height. You could offer access to high spots e.g. shelves or the top of a wardrobe window sills. Ensure easy access by placing a stool nearby . 

Somewhere to sleep – igloo beds, cardboard box, blankets in elevated places. 

Toys – be aware that a cat may not want to play while they are settling in.



A scratching post try placing this near to where the cat sleeps as they often like to stretch and scratch after they wake up. 

Litter tray – placed away from food and water bowls. 

You can install a facial pheromone diffuser, such as Feliway©, in the area that each cat uses to sleep, to make the environment more reassuring for the cat.

Keeping the new cat in this room for several days will not only allow it to settle into its new surroundings more easily but will also give you the chance to introduce the scent of the existing dog to the new cat and vice versa before they come face to face. This is essential as scent is the most important aspect of group recognition in cats.

Stage 2 – Scent Swapping

To do this you can start by swapping over your pets bedding and toys. Another way of creating this communal scent is by utilising the glands around the cats’ face that secrete a pheromone that signals a positive message of security and familiarity.

Stroking both pets, one after the other, will also aid in the process of creating a communal, familiar smell. Keep swapping the scents until the cat shows no reaction to the smell. If the cat avoids the scent cloth, then the scent swapping stage is going to take longer. Keep mixing scents until the cat shows no reaction to the smell.

Stage 3 – Visual Introductions

Scent collection is fairly easy using fine cotton gloves or a small natural fibre cloth. Stroke the cat around the cheeks, chin and forehead using the cloth or glove.

This will collect small amounts of the naturally secreted pheromones from the glands in its face. This cloth can then be rubbed against doorways and furniture to enable both pets to explore the scent of the other without direct contact.

The next stage is to introduce the pets visually, but at a distance to begin with, and not letting them touch or meet one another.

You can use baby/stair gates or make a chicken wire and wood frame to fit the recess of a doorway, with the door open, and introduce the pets visually either side of the frame with the new cat remaining in its familiar room.

This barrier can then be rotated to fit in other doorways to enable the resident dog to encounter the newcomer in other areas.

Allow them to approach or hide as they choose.

To increase the duration of the visual contact you can give each pet a fuss but you need to ensure that they are relaxed.

If at any point either pet looks anxious, for example, tensing or flattening ears, then they need to be separated and the process repeated again at a later time, possibly with them at a greater distance from each other.

Gradually increase the length of time they are in visual contact until they no longer need to be separated.

Continuing to swap scent all the way through this programme will help them identify each other as familiar, although they may never be accepted as members of the same social group.

Stage 4 Face-to-Face Introductions

Do not progress to a face-to-face introduction until they either ignore each other or show positive behaviour – such as attempting to groom each other or rub heads through the divider.

When it is time to introduce face to face, it helps to: 

Ensure easy escape routes are available for both pets, as well as easy access to places higher up for the cat, such as furniture or shelves. 

Start in a fairly large room where they can stay at a distance from each other. 

Supervise them when they are together. 

Work at a pace that they are comfortable with and go back a step if necessary.



Keep your dog on his lead and keep him calm it will help to take him for a vigorous long walk first.



Only introduce for short periods of time to help form positive associations with each other, before returning the cat to her separate room.

Gradually start to fuss or play with them both for a short time, so their attention is on you, and gradually increase the time they spend together.

Do not force the cat to approach the dog let her choose to come over.

Do not allow your dog to chase the cat if she runs away - praise and treat him for remaining calm.

When your cat and dog are unconcerned with each others presence you can take your dog off the lead, but make sure your cat can escape onto high ledges or furniture.

Never leave the dog and cat together unattended until you are absolutely sure they are happy and secure in each others company.

Introducing a new dog to an existing cat

If you have a resident cat, ensure that all their routines remain the same where possible.

You will need to divide the house in half so the cat still has access to her favourite places, and has access outside if she normally goes out, but make sure she cannot see the dog straight away. The dog can access the other rooms to start with.

Stage 1 Scent Swapping

Start by swapping over your pets bedding and toys. Another way of creating a communal scent is by utilising the glands around the cats head that secrete a pheromone that signals a positive message of security and familiarity.

Scent collection is fairly easy using fine cotton gloves or a small natural fibre cloth. Stroke the cat around the cheeks, chin and forehead using the cloth or glove. This will collect small amounts of the naturally secreted pheromones from the glands on its face.

This cloth can then be rubbed against doorways and furniture to enable both pets to explore the scent of the other without direct contact. Stroking both pets, one after the other, will also aid in the process of creating a communal, familiar smell.

Stage 2 – Visual Introductions

The next stage is to introduce the pets visually, but at a distance to begin with, and not letting them touch or meet one another. You can use baby/stair gates or make a chicken wire and wood frame to fit the recess of a doorway, with the door open, and introduce the pets visually either side of the frame with the new cat remaining in its familiar room.

This barrier can then be rotated to fit in other doorways to enable the resident cat to encounter the newcomer in other areas. Allow them to approach or hide as they choose.

Using stair gates

We highly recommend the use of stair/baby gates when you have cats and dogs living together as it gives the cat a sense of security that she can get away from the dog if she feels threatened. It also gives both the dog and cat their own space.

It is well worth using them on a permanent basis. If your dog is a small breed then just a normal stair gate the cat can jump over will be good enough.

Make sure your existing cat still has the run of the house and introduce your new dog to the house a few rooms at a time. It is always a good idea to keep some areas off limits to the dog so the cat has somewhere to retreat and escape if she feels overwhelmed or wants her own space away from the dog.

Stage 3 Face-to-Face Introductions

Do not progress to a face-to-face introduction until they either ignore each other or show positive behaviour – such as attempting to groom each other or rub heads through the divider.

When it is time to introduce face to face, it helps to:



Ensure easy escape routes are available for both pets, as well as easy access to places higher up for the cat, such as furniture or shelves.



Start in a fairly large room where they can stay at a distance from each other.



Supervise them when they are together.



Work at a pace that they are comfortable with and go back a step if necessary .



Keep your dog on his lead and keep him calm it will help to take him for a vigorous long walk first.



Only introduce for short periods of time to help form positive associations with each other, before returning the cat to her separate room.

Gradually start to fuss or play with them both for a short time, so their attention is on you, and gradually increase the time they spend together.

Do not force the cat to approach the dog let her choose to come over.

Do not allow your dog to chase the cat if she runs away - praise and treat him for remaining calm.

When your cat and dog are unconcerned with each others presence you can take your dog off the lead, but make sure your cat can escape onto high ledges or furniture.

Never leave the dog and cat together unattended until you are absolutely sure they are happy and secure in each others company.

Choose somewhere where they can escape easily – placing an object such as a chair between the feeding bowls may help them feel less threatened.

Over time, you can move the bowls closer together but do not place them side by side. Cats should not be encouraged to eat meals next to other animals, as they prefer to eat separately.

Cats can feel vulnerable when they are eating, so place food and water bowls slightly away from the wall, so the cat has space to sit with its back to the wall and is able to survey the room while eating or drinking.

Friendly cats and dogs have been known to share beds, use each other as pillows and even go on walks together.

Cat food has more protein in it than dog food and a lot of dogs find it very tasty. Dog food lacks certain nutrients that are essential for the well being of cats.

Keeping feeding areas separate will stop any problems. Having your cat’s eating area higher up or in a utility room accessed by a cat flap works well.

The one thing they must not share though is food! Dog food and cat food are quite nutritionally different and whilst eating each other’s food will not poison them it can cause problems if they regularly share food.

You can also buy microchip pet feeders that stop your dog eating your cats food or vice versa.