Pretty Past it? FMB Stage 1 by Gabriele Rybalko

PRETTY PAST IT?

This submission is the result of my own work. All the help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources have been properly atributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognize the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. Signed................ Date..........................

STAGE 1 Is age a constraint or an untapped opportunity when marketing to women over 50?

Gabriele Rybalko N0750762 Word count: 7082

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION Introduction 08 Rationale 10 Aim and Objectives 12

LITERATURE REVIEW Introduction 16 1. Age in context of marketing 17 2. The ageing consumer 19 3. (R)Evolution 26 Research gaps 29

RESEARCH DESIGN Overview 33 Sample group 33 Secondary research 34 Primary research 36

RESEARCH FINDINGS Chapter 1 44 Case study 50 Chapter 2 52 Chapter 3 56 Key insights 60

CONCLUSION Critical reflections 64 What is missing? 66 Recommendations 67

APPENDIX List of Illustrations 70 References 72 Bibliography 76 Appendix 78

01.

INTRODUCTION 7

INTRODUCTION

he report will explore the research question ‘’Is age a constraint or an untapped opportunity when marketing to women over 50?’’. This will be done by using a wide range of primary and secondary sources, which will be carefully analysed with a view to gain new

valuable insights regarding this particular topic. The report will reflect on relevant theories and existing discussions through the literature review to provide a broad overview of the subject and identify gaps in the current knowledge. The following part of the report will focus on analysing and discussing primary research findings, which will be later formulated into insights. Finally, the study will be concluded by outlining critical reflections and addressing possible futures that will be further explored in the following stage of the project.

RATIONALE

he Inclusivity movement is currently as prevalent as ever. Previously conducted research for Future Thinking report has helped to demonstrate that fashion and beauty industries are actively responding to the trend by taking into consideration diversity of

genders, sexualities, sizes and ethnicities. However, age appeared to be the least explored aspect within the topic. This eventually has led to the idea that age is set to be another emerging concern within the Inclusivity movement and the next frontier for a greater diversity in the mainstream culture. As Tomboc (2019) explains,

‘’For more than a decade Millennials have taken much of the cultural limelight, which has led many Baby Boomers, particularly women, to feel oversimplified and underrepresented as consumers’’. Actively trying to please younger generations, some brands have lost the track of the actual demands of women over 50, consequently leaving them frustrated as consumers. Therefore, this raised a major question – are women over 50 really no longer valued by fashion and beauty industries? Does their age indicate a limitation that restrains brands from connecting with these consumers? Alternatively, is the complexity of their identities an untapped opportunity for authenticity and a more innovative approach to marketing? This report will aim to answer this question by exploring established theories, whilst investigating contemporary marketing strategies and the attitudes of women over 50.

QUESTION Is age a constraint or an untapped opportunity when marketing to women over 50?

AIM To investigate how the diverse and evolving attitudes of Baby Boomer women relate to their demands as fashion and beauty consumers and identify opportunities the changing perceptions of age will provide for future marketing to ageing populations.

OBJECTIVES • • • • • •

To explore the complexity of different perceptions on ageing and how it is translated within marketing to women. To identify the behavioural shifts of female consumers over 50 and their expectations from brands. To analyse if brands are currently contributing to challenging and diminishing the stereotypes of ageing. To evaluate the benefits for brands of including women over 50 within their business strategies and marketing campaigns. To investigate how brands can adopt an age-inclusive approach and ensure longevity to their businesses. To build insights into the future possibilities regarding brands’ marketing to women of ageing populations.

02.

LITERATURE REVIEW 15

INTRODUCTION

n order to support the current exploration into the topic, a literature review was undertaken. It is essential to examine and assess

existing literature in order to produce a rigorous and relevant analysis of an area investigated. ‘’The production of new knowledge is fundamentally dependent on past knowledge […] it generates ideas, helps form significant questions, and [is] instrumental in the process of research design’’ (O’Leary, 2010, p.7172). Following the statement, the literature review will assist as a foundation to highlight and evaluate key concepts while investigating written material on age and its relevance to consumer behaviour in relation to Baby Boomer women. Literature review will also reflect upon key themes such as consumerism, feminism and the anti-ageing culture – the occurrences experienced by Baby Boomer women that have inevitably shaped their sense of self and behaviours as consumers when approaching later stages of life. The following section will highlight opposing views regarding ageing women. Together, these approaches to the discussion will contribute to the detection of research gaps and potential opportunities.

1. AGE IN CONTEXT OF MARKETING 1.1. The Market System One of the main marketing purposes is to identify and satisfy consumer needs at all times (Oumlil and Williams, 1994, p.p 109114). However, quite often due to the lack

Stephens (1991) originally discussed the

of time or financial resources, brands do

concept of cognitive age as an ostensi-

not pay enough attention to the analysis

ble age influenced by one’s self-percep-

of the actual consumer demands and cre-

tion and argued that self-perceived age,

ate products that would allegedly appeal

which oftentimes differ from a chronolog-

to certain demographics without estimat-

ical one, could provide brands with bet-

ing the fact that these demands are con-

ter marketing solutions. To illustrate the

stantly changing. Twigg (2010) notes that

relevance of age perception in branding,

‘’the reality of marketing is that segmen-

Moody and Sasser (2014, p.486) have iden-

tation is frequently closely based on tra-

tified four different categories of brands

ditional categorisations such as age, class

that design their marketing strategies to

and gender’’.

meet the needs of consumers of advanced

Individual’s age oftent plays as an indica-

years. These are: ‘’(a) age-denial brands;

tor to marketeers as it is a part of the demo-

(b) age-adaptive brands; (c) age-irrel-

graphic segmentation and this method is

evant brands; (d) and age-affirmative

a convenient way of segmenting consum-

brands’’ (see appendix fig.1). Nonetheless,

er markets, as the demographic variables

the types of branding displayed remain a

are relatively easy to measure (Camilleri,

subject to critique. Skapinker (2019) ar-

2018).

gues that companies targeting consumers

However, successful marketing requires

of advanced years no longer attract their

more attention towards behavioural or

attention, which disrupts the concept of

psychological segmentation, which even-

‘age-branding’ in all domains, potentially

tually insist on leaving the role of chrono-

meaning that consumers do not want to be

logical age behind.

singled out as a specialized market. 17

1.2. Demographic Barriers However, a recent study shows that over Disputing age suitability as a tool for con-

fifties consumers are ‘’shunned and cari-

sumer segmentation indicates the possi-

catured in marketing images, perpetuat-

ble emergence of age fluidity in marketing

ing unrealistic stereotypes and contrib-

strategies. However, such forecast may

uting to age discrimination’’ (Hsu, 2019).

be considered as contradictory as ‘’even

Moreover, in terms of women, a research

though demographic segmentation has

by AARP revealed that

been proven a nonsense, it is still widely used when marketing to different gener-

‘‘80% of these consumers aged above 50

ations’’ (Vizard, 2018). Therefore, it is un-

say that marketers portray their lives

clear if contemporary marketing is finally

based on stereotypes with 69% seeing

acknowledging different consumer groups

media images as ageist’’ (Thayer and

without age bias that potentially come

Houghton, 2019).

with demographic segmentation.

Regarding Baby Boomers, many academic

This suggests that brands still might be

studies have emphasized the complexity

struggling to reshape their strategies

of targeting this cohort as they are not one

aimed at women over 50. However, it is

homogenous group (Glasgow, 2013) and

important to note that these findings are

their perception of age is also influenced

based on quantitative data and potentially

by different variables, which eventually

lack an in-depth analysis from both, con-

differentiates their consumer needs.

sumer’s and brands perpectives.

2. THE AGEING CONSUMER 2.1. Pioneers Of Consumerism

To understand current consumption pat-

remains a largely youth-oriented phe-

terns of women over 50 it is important re-

nomenon. Ironically, the generation that

flect on previous studies that have explored

grew up with the development of consum-

the relationship between Baby Boomer

erism, currently, when reaching later life,

generation and the culture of consumer-

utilise consumption as a form of ‘’social

ism. Growing up in the post-war austerity,

integration into the mainstream culture’’

boomers were reaching their adulthood in

(Twigg, 2013), Having matured with the

the rise of modern consumer society (Biggs

boom of consumerism in the eighties and

et al, 2008). Accordingly, unlike their par-

nineties, boomers are naturally habituated

ents, ‘’who experienced the collective sol-

to consumption. Yet, since this generation

idarity of wartime’’ (Metz and Underwood,

started to encounter the process of ageing,

2005), Boomers assimilated the idea of de-

continuous consumerism serves them as

fining themselves by their personal choic-

one of the main ways to remain a part of

es in the consumption goods. Biggs et al.

a bigger picture – a culture that is heavily

(2008) argue that consequently, as this

dominated by youth. Referring to Boom-

generation experienced a cultural shift in

er women, consumption culture thus far

their earlier stages of life, their traditional

provides this consumer group an extended

beliefs were tested against the increasing

access to self-expression allowing them to

availability of new forms of self-express-

shape their identities regardless of age.

sion. Even though Baby Boomer generation thereby, has historically achieved the status of a progressive, liberal and principally ‘youthful’ cohort, Twigg (2009) argues that consumption culture was and 19

2.2. Societal constraints As Baby Boomers are now reaching later

them as consumers. Such generalisations

years, it is important to reflect on differ-

result in stereotypes, which are ultimately

ent concepts and theories to understand

expressed in societal attitudes and there-

why women of this cohort may potentially

by, the media. Edstrom (2018) explains

experience limitations as consumers. De-

that stereotyping is often utilised as a tool

spite the cultural shifts that were shaping

for storytelling to simplify, describe, and

the society when Boomer women were

clarify the world. However, ‘’any stereo-

entering adulthood, some ideas regarding

type of aging has the potential to reinforce

later life can be seen as still relevant.

ageism because they do not acknowledge

Dr Davies (1994) originally discussed sev-

the vast diversity among older adults’’ (Di-

eral negative theories regarding ageing.

onigi, 2015). Irving et al (2018) even sug-

One of them, ‘’Social stratification’’ the-

gest that ageist attitudes are so culturally

ory, was explained as a categorization of

rooted that people rarely recognize them.

people based on age, which is ultimate-

However, these statements are fundamen-

ly perceived as a way to interpret what

tally theoretical and do not provide spe-

people experience and how they should

cific knowledge on women consumers in

behave. This inevitably leads to the idea

particular.

that unconscious denial of multifaceted personalities of older adults can cause the occurrence of negative presumptions of of 21

2.3. Self-empowerment vs. The fear of ‘inappropriate’ In terms of the fashion industry, in her

empowering idea that fashion now has no

academic works around clothing, identi-

limits and is open to every individual, while

ty and age Twigg (2009) frequently refers

simultaneously advising women to avoid

to the role of ‘age-ordering’ as a hierar-

‘inappropriate’ looks past certain age. Ac-

chically set concept of age when deter-

cording to Lewis et al (2011), fashion pub-

mining the relation between the choice

lications, in particular, have a power to

of clothing and the stage of life. Refer-

make Boomer female feel negative about

ring to older adults, it means dressing

their age. This, therefore, allows to pre-

in order, i.e. looking age appropriately.

sume that the role of ‘age-ordering’ is still

In terms of the present situation, it seems

unconsciously applicable with no efficient

that such ideology, however, has become

evidence of its complete decline. Clothing,

outdated and rather irrelevant. Boomer

in many cases, is one of the causes of anxi-

women can access the same fashion-con-

ety related to ‘’individual’s ‘responsibility’

scious assortment as the younger genera-

to measure up to cultural norms’’ (Clarke

tions, which allows them to disengage from

and Miller, 2002). Even if now those norms

the idea of accepting age related styles and

increasingly lose relevance, referring to

frumpy looks accustomed to their parents.

the ‘Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs’(see ap-

The freedom of creating an individual-self

pendix fig.2), most individuals naturally

that comes together with consumption,

feel the need of acceptance while meet-

for women in particular, ‘’offers liberation

ing the current standards of appearance.

from what is a very negative set of mes-

Ratcliffe (2019) suggests that while wom-

sages around sexuality, appearance and

en past their fifties do not aspire to look

self-assertion, policed by heavily moralis-

younger, they do not want to be perceived

tic language’’ (Twigg, 2009). In today’s flu-

as ‘mutton dresses as lamb’ either. This be-

id and increasingly diverse culture, wom-

ing a potential reason why women over 50

en are provided with the freedom of choice

may actually feel restricted when it comes

in terms of their personal appearance and

to their fashion decisions, consequently

self-expression. However, together with

making it difficult for brands to connect

liberty comes uncertainty, leaving these

with these consumers. However, such con-

consumers puzzled and relatively frustrat-

cepts seem to lack in data regarding wom-

ed. The mass media is abundant in articles

en’s over 50 self-perceptions in relation to

that still fluctuate between ‘’caution and

their brand choices.

boldness’’ (Twigg, 2010), proposing the 22

2.4. Women in the anti-ageing culture Research by Twigg (2009) suggests that

Personal care brand Palmolive demon-

since ‘’the spread of consumption val-

strated a skin-shaming approach in their

ues and expectations may be oppressive

advertisement (see appendix fig.3) sug-

rather than life enhancing’’, exposure to

gesting that a woman is more likely to lose

consumerism put an emphasis of phys-

love if she allows her skin to age naturally

ical appearance, accordingly setting up

(Hess, 2017). Again, although the adver-

hardly achievable demands, particular-

tisement is heavily misogynistic, this re-

ly, to women in their later stages of life.

flects that even back in the first half of the

This eventually invoked the fear of age-

twentieth century ageing was viewed as a

ing together with the refusal of display-

problem that needs to be addressed with

ing the visible marks of age, which led to

‘particular solutions’ rather than an inevi-

the development of anti-ageing culture.

table and natural process of life. Referring

The term anti-ageing itself sheds a nega-

back to the present, Williams (2018) argues

tive light on the process of getting older, i.e.

that even if now the term ‘anti-ageing’

age is something that needs to be fought

may be considered taboo, ‘’the new era of

against (Mjelde-Mossey, 2012). ‘’While in-

beauty advertising still profits on women’s

terest in the means for slowing or revers-

insecurities’’. The author explains that al-

ing ageing has a long history, and experi-

though it is not socially acceptable to age-

ments on rejuvenation can be dated to the

shame a woman, the beauty industry still

late nineteenth century, it is only relative-

operates in the same way but with a more

ly recently that the concept of anti-ageing

enhanced vocabulary. It is therefore clear

has become mainstream in marketing and

that the situation has not changed and the

familiar in popular culture’’ (Robert, 2004,

idea of ‘rewinding time’ is being sold in

see MacGregor et al, 2018, p.65). However,

other forms.

the evidence of anti-ageing culture within advertising to women can already be detected in the 1930s - way before the consumption culture gained a momentum. 25

3. (R)EVOLUTION 3.1. The rise of ‘’elastic’’ consumer

LS: N Global (2014) has predicted the

life past fifties’’ (Stafford, 2017, p.4).

rapid emergence of The Flat Age Socie-

This eventually means new pathways for

ty referring to Baby Boomers as a tribe

brands to connect with these consumers.

and explaining that age will no longer be

However, this could be difficult to do as

perceived as just a number, it will be flat.

Gibson (2018, p.494) argues that ‘’the re-

The rise of Flat Agers, therefore, means

alities of ageing can create manifold anxi-

that ‘’the cult of youth is fading replaced

eties for individual women’’. Study by Mc-

by a culture of agelessness, where peo-

Cann (2017) ‘Truth about age’, however,

ple’s interests and activities do not need

claim to have found a solution, suggest-

to change just because they were born

ing that positive attitudes towards age-

on a certain date’’ (Cooke and Buchanan,

ing could be fostered by intergenerational

2014). An even more specified perspec-

connections. However, since the explo-

tive on the subject has been provided

rations into the flat aged elastic women

by Stafford (et al, 2017) in the J Walter

market has not appeared to gain much

Thompson report on Elastic Females, in-

academic interest, such concepts lack

troducing a ‘’generation of women that

further investigation, especially in the

are pushing boundaries and redefining

context of fashion and beauty industries.

RESEARCH GAPS Several research gaps and possibilities for

ly accurate data. Bridging the knowledge

further study have been discerned where

gaps and strengthening the understanding

relevant. It is apparent that there is a lack

of Boomer women consumers and current

of an up-to-date research into Boom-

brand marketing strategies targeted to-

er women market addressing individual

wards them, will benefit the report with

womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self-reflection in relation to the

more comprehensive qualitative insights.

current fashion and beauty environments,

On the other hand, the literature in-

which is crucial when determining poten-

vestigated has been particularly rich in

tial ways brands could establish lasting

theoretical research, providing a good

connections with these consumers. More-

contextual analysis of age itself and iden-

over, it is clear that the current academ-

tifying potential constraints experienced

ic research is lacking in data regarding

by women over 50. These backgrounds will

the emerging potential of age inclusivity

be crucial in expanding upon the theories

within marketing in the context of fashion

presented, such as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;age brandingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and

and beauty industries. Thus, further re-

the relevance of their applicability within

search will focus on synthesizing these el-

contemporary marketing as well as deter-

ements with the use of selected questions

mining possible developments of these el-

and methods to produce a more specifical-

ements for more age-inclusive strategies. 29

03.

RESEARCH DESIGN 31

OVERVIEW

oth primary and secondary research methods were applied throughout the project to ensure a thorough study supporting the devel-

opment of constructive insights. The whole project is based on the Mixed-Method Triangulation strategy (see appendix fig.4) as a method to test validity through the convergence of information from different sources (Carter et al, 2014, pp.545-547). In this instance, a literature review alongside the analysis of quantitative and qualitative data were utilised to gain a rigorous understanding of the subject explored. Moreover, in order to keep the study focused, each method was carefully selected to correlate with the previously explained research objectives.

SAMPLE GROUP This project will demonstrate a complex research sample. The focus will be a demographic of female participants of Baby Boomer generation aged over 50. According to Forbes, ‘’this group of super consumers, who will experience the largest population growth over the next 10 years, represent off-the-charts spending power’’ (Goldston, 2018). Yet, only 5% of marketing is targeted to this cohort (Yee, 2018). Explorations into this consumer group is vital to conduct this body of research, which is based on ageing experience and marketing opportunities. Alongside this, the sample group also included a certain number of Millennial females to gain intergenerational insights and demonstrate an age-inclusive approach to the study. 33

SECONDARY RESEARCH A wide range of secondary sources were analysed throughout this project to develop an extensive research body. Secondary research provided a convenient, time and cost-efficient access to different academic and non-academic material, which covered a range of different explorations into the topic. The sources utilised included tangible and non-tangible books, peer-reviewed journals, articles and trend reports, which allowed to gain an exhaustive investigation into a wide scope of data, studies and discussions regarding the subject through a convenient access. Such approach of ex-

In addition, secondary research included a

amining the existing information was vi-

look into blogs, social media, documenta-

tal to produce a rigorous literature review,

ries, brand websites as well as a number of

which eventually assisted in pinpointing

marketing campaigns aimed at the target

key themes for further explorations.

audience of this research to support the visual audit of the case study. Reviewing

The main drawback of this method was a

these types of sources allowed to gain an

possible unreliability of the sources re-

even more broad understanding of the

viewed due to unguaranteed conditions

topic investigated. However, the limita-

under which the data and information

tion that comes along with this method

were collected as well as restricted ac-

is a lack of upholding data and the poten-

cessibility to certain materials. Further-

tial occurrence of bias. Nonetheless, it is

more, secondary data ‘’may not facilitate

a justifiable way to obtain current societal

particular research question’’ (Koziol and

perspectives and new mind-sets if inte-

Arthur, n.d.). Therefore, a careful selection

grated and backed-up with other relevant

of the sources was applied by measuring

and credible data. Therefore, some quo-

different aspects of information validity,

tations gathered from secondary research

such as the plausibility of an author and

will also be used as a reference to support

the reason of publishing.

the following findings where appropriate.

PRIMARY RESEARCH Online questionnaires Two qualitative online questionnaires were chosen as the first primary research method. The first survey was aimed at a wider audience, which included both female and male participants of a different age range. The data was gathered from 100 respondents to quantify an up to date societal perceptions of women over 50 and the potential of age-inclusive marketing. The second survey was aimed solely at women over 50

with data gathered from 113 respondents

However, this method is incomplete as

to gain an overview of their perceptions of

multiple-choice questions means a lack of

current fashion and beauty industries and

further explanations of possible reason-

potential demands. The questionnaires

ing behind the answers chosen. Such ap-

allowed participants to stay anonymous,

proach only allows to gather factual data,

which enabled them to be confident and

which restricts researcher from receiving

honest with their answers, thus leading to

more in-depth opinions (Wright, 2005).

results that are more accurate. Therefore,

The majority of responses provided in a

online surveys were deemed as a conven-

tick box option with already preconceived

ient way to assemble generalised results

outcomes leads to a potential absence of

from a large scale of sample and examine

additional insights hence, limiting the

relationships between different variables

thoroughness of the study. Since both of

(Evans and Manthur, 2005) in order to pro-

the surveys were open to a wide public,

duce a measurable data to bridge the gaps

there is also a high chance of inadequate

in the knowledge and effectively support

responses from uninterested participants,

research insights.

which eventually affects research results.

Focus groups The focus groups were organised for a further expansion of the research in order to gain valuable data through open discus-

The first focus group involved a semi-struc-

sions, which allowed to develop more con-

tured discussion with 6 female partici-

structive insights. This method assisted in

pants aged over 50 with key themes select-

contextualising more in-depth opinions

ed beforehand to guide the conversation

about the ageing experience and expec-

and maintain the focus on the subject.

tations from brands this way consolidat-

The themes were chosen based on second-

ing the findings that cannot be achieved

ary research and findings from the online

solely through quantitative research. Fur-

questionnaire to gain more in-depth un-

thermore, the focus group method helps

derstanding of the reasoning behind cer-

to ensure that ‘’the attitudes, feelings and

tain consumer behaviours. The process of

beliefs that may be partially independent

the focus group aimed to explore partici-

of a group or its social setting are more

pants’ attitudes towards ageing and their

likely to be revealed via the social gather-

self-reflections in the context of current

ing and the interaction which being in a

fashion and beauty environments.

focus group entails’’ (Gibbs, 1997). This method is, however, limited as ‘’the

The second focus group involved a

moderator of the focus group has less con-

semi-structured conversation between 6

trol over the data produced as by its nature

female participants with an equal split be-

focus group research is open ended and

tween two different generations in order to

cannot be entirely predetermined’’ (Gibbs,

gain contrasting views on the subject and

1997). There is also a high chance of par-

explore potential similarities in attitudes.

ticipant responses to be influenced by

The process included an activity during

other participants due to the pressure to

which participants were shown four dif-

conform with a dominant view. This could

ferent images of brand campaigns to gain

eventually prevent from receiving deeper

an understanding of opinions towards cur-

insights. To overcome this limitation, a

rent representation of women over 50. The

comfortable and relaxed environment was

task was deemed as an effective method to

created to ensure all the participants feel

foster conversations amongst women of

confident to contribute. However, the oc-

different age groups by allowing them to

currence of opposing views within the fo-

react to one and another while exchanging

cus group could also be difficult to analyse

different perspectives and identifying spe-

due to the complexity of data conducted.

cific concerns. 37

One-to-one interviews ‘’In-depth interviewing is a qualitative research technique that involves conducting intensive individual interviews with a small number of respondents to explore their perspectives on a particular idea or a situation’’ (Boyce, 2006, p.3). Therefore, in-depth interviews are a great way to gain a piece of comprehensive knowledge through a full focus on one participant, which allows researcher to observe different aspects, such as individual reactions and body language. One-to-one interviews provide a more honest conversation due to participant’s ability to express their true opinions without a fear of judgement, which leads to an opportunity to gain more detailed insights. However, one-to-one interviews can be limited due to participant’s awareness of being observed, which could potentially influence them to provide filtered responses or what they assume the research is looking for rather than their true opinions. Hence, this can affect the reliability of the data collected. Eight one-to-one interviews were conducted with female consumers aged over 50 in fashion and beauty stores around Nottingham. The questions were constructed based upon the findings gained via online questionnaires, which helped to uncover new valuable insights and fill in the knowledge gaps. 39

Industry interviews Industry interviews were also carried out as a part of primary research in order to gain insights from someone with expertise knowledge and a more specific understanding of the subject matter. This method is essential as it allows to receive reliable and verified information due to the fact that respondents in the expert interviews are highly qualified in the investigated area (Libakova and Sertakova, 2015), which contributes to the quality of

Both interviews were carried out via email, which could be seen as a limiting aspect of the method as the questions were open to interpretation and did not allow further clarifications based on answers given. However, it was still the most efficient way to communicate with industry experts due to the mutual time and cost restrictions as it still provided the opportunity to gain insightful perspectives.

the study. Two interviews were carried out with industry professionals. The first was Mikella Lowe, the founder and creative director of ‘Renaissance’ magazine, which only casts

A PEST analysis alongside The Three Ho-

models over 40 for its editorials. Discus-

rizon model and perceptual map were uti-

sions with the expert helped to compre-

lised to further inform the research. The

hend a current situation within fashion

PEST (see appendix fig. 5) model acted as

and beauty industries regarding ageism in

a tool to look at the broader perspective

the context of inclusivity movement. The

surrounding the subject matter. The per-

second interview was conducted with Ja-

ceptual map was incorporated to discern

cynth Bassett, the founder of age-inclusive

gaps in the market, while The Three Ho-

fashion boutique ‘The-Bias-Cut’, which

rizon model (see appendix fig. 6) was used

provided an opportunity to understand

to identify potential stages of further de-

the brands’ ability to change perceptions

velopment.

of ageing as well as to identify potential gaps in the market.

Business models

04.

RESEARCH FINDINGS The following section will provide the discussion and analytical debate reflecting on the literature review whilst further exploring the attitudes of women over 50 and the possibilities for more age-inclusive marketing in fashion and beauty industries with the use of insights gained from quantitative and qualitative data.

CHAPTER 1 Attitudes vs. Behaviours The literature review suggested that Baby

Moreover, it was crucial to understand

Boomer women are not a one homogenous

whether these mindsets are in any way af-

group and are increasingly redefining life

fected by their age. Interestingly, survey

past fifties, which acted as a starting point

aimed at women over fifty showed that

to further explore this consumer group.

almost 78% of these consumers demon-

Past research found that Boomer females

strated a refusal to be even identified as

felt disempowered by their age putting

‘mature’ (see appendix fig.7), which ap-

a blame on the fashion media (Lewis et

peared to be consistent with the opin-

al, 2011). However, primary research re-

ions expressed by participants from focus

vealed contradictory results suggesting

group 1, emphasizing that they ‘’do not

that women’s over 50 self-perceptions are

feel mature in any sense’’ (1111, 2019),

not influenced by the current landscape

and are not willing to conform to any rules

of fashion and beauty industries, which

about the way they are supposed to ‘’age’’.

indicates that these women have a strong

This highlighted a fact that women over 50

sense of self and individual mindsets.

do not feel restrained by their age, which was also reflected within the results of the questionnaire, where almost 72% of re-

Does a current landscape of fashion and beauty industries impact your self-perception?

spondents stated they do not feel limited with their fashion decisions solely because of how old they are (see appendix fig.7).

(1111, 2019)

‘‘

I’m just not going down that route. I’m just going to be me. I’m not going to change. I’m not conforming to anything, especially, how women my age should ‘age’ or ‘dress’.

Therefore, it was important to understand

‘’I just want to look stylish but I feel like

how the discovered self-perception of

at this point it’s just exhausting to des-

‘’Immature individualists’’ affects wom-

perately browse the shops trying to find

en’s over 50 brand preferences. The lit-

pieces that would look good on me since

erature review introduced the concept of

I really don’t have time for it. So, I try to

‘age-branding’ (Moody and Sasser, 2014,

shop online but everything is usually dis-

p.486), which was opposed by the view

played on younger models and there is al-

that it is now potentially being disrupted

ways a problem with the sizing and fit and

by consumers (Skapinker, 2019).

how to properly style them. Even if I’m

The idea was tested specifically with Boom-

interested in the same styles, I wouldn’t

er women via online questionnaire, which

wear those clothes the way 20-year-olds

revealed that although 96% of respond-

do’’ (0008, 2019).

ents believe that the majority of fashion bands are not age-inclusive, roughly 61% of them stated that they would rather be engaged by existing brands while expressing less interest in specialized ones that only cater exclusively to their age group (see appendix fig.7). This appeared to be a particularly common theme amongst women over 50 as similar opinions continuously occurred during one-to-one interviews with customers insisting that they ‘’don’t want to be told to buy certain type of products or shop with certain type of brands (0007, 2019) solely because they are deemed as ’old’. This eventually indicates that women over 50 increasingly do not want to be isolated as consumers, expressing the need to be recognized by fashion retailers: 45

The research demonstrated that women past their fifties feel confident and ‘the fear of inappropriate’ (Twigg, 2009) is increasingly not applicable. Nevertheless, a quote such as this, indicates a potential frustration experienced by the sample due to brands selling their mass-market garments with a younger consumer in mind. Even though women are not necessarily interested in brands that target their specific age group, there is still a high demand for their individual needs, such as size diversity and styling, to be addressed. On the other hand, as complex as these consumers may seem, 82% of survey respondents showed a potential interest into new labels (see appendix fig.7)., supported by 1-to-1 interview participant stating that ‘‘Even though my body changes, my mindset doesn’t. I really like experimenting with style and trying out new outfits, new brands’’ (0007, 2019). A statement such as this demonstrates openness to new possibilities and the desire to keep reinventing one’s personal style regardless of age. Hence, these results signify that widening age-inclusive options to keep up with the complex demands expressed by immature individualists is key. 46

Is It The End Of The Anti-ageing Culture? The questionnaire aimed at a general public found that 73% of respondents stated they have not noticed any recent adver-

Supportive opinions were later voiced in

tising campaigns that positively portrayed

the focus group 1;

women over 50 supporting that the advertisements are highly hypocritical - ‘’usu-

‘’[…] what I don’t like is that we’re con-

ally about embracing your age but still

stantly being tried to sold the idea of ‘eter-

including age-reducing products’’ (see

nal youth’ […] That just doesn’t work.

appendix fig.8). This is also backed-up by

Women our age just want to be treated

the findings within the literature review,

like everyone else and encouraged to em-

which pointed out that metaphors of an

brace our natural looks’’ (6666, 2019);

anti-ageing ideology are still active, especially within the beauty sector (Williams,

‘’[…] when you start to age, you want

2018). The issue with age in the cosmetics

those industries to go hand in hand with

industry is particularly sensitive as seeing

you without forcing you to look younger

older women in beauty campaigns that are

and instead, just empowering you’’ (4444,

not ‘anti-ageing’ is a rare case scenario.

2019).

The founder and creative director of ‘Renaissance’ magazine added that ‘’youth

Quotes like these suggest that women over

is still idealized across most media plat-

50 are comfortable in their own skin and

forms, while getting older is treated as

do not accept the idea of being excluded as

something we need to fight’’ (Lowe, 2020).

a consumer group that only requires revi-

However, primary research results showed

talization of youth, instead wanting their

that the narrative is increasingly being

beauty to be celebrated regardless of life

disrupted by consumer backlash. The sur-

stage.

vey aimed at women over 50 demonstrat-

ed that even though 79% of respondents

It is, however, important to note that, even

agreed on the idea that beauty brands tar-

if not yet fully recognized by consumers,

get them relying on the anti-ageing prop-

some brands like L’Oreal or MAC cosmet-

aganda, almost 84% of this cohort do not

ics have been driving age-inclusion trend

put specific efforts to look younger (see

within the industry in product displays

appendix fig.7).

and other brand activities (March, 2018).

Nonetheless, as including women over 50

This inevitably highlighted an even great-

is continuously being treated as an ex-

er issue within the industry as older mod-

ceptional affair, age diversity has not yet

els are often used for the sake of selling

become a norm. As further discussed with

certain products due to brands becoming

Ms. Lowe,

increasingly aware of the spending power of this cohort (see appendix. fig.5 PEST).

‘’[there has been] some change with a

Simultaneously, it indicates that while

few luxury and main-stream brands us-

some brands could be currently deemed as

ing older models in their campaigns […]

inclusive, only seeing age inclusion incor-

but it is still too small and at times feels

porated within brand’s DNA is when the

more like token gesture than a real com-

progress of a real change can be witnessed.

mitment’’ (Lowe, 2020). 49

CASE STUDY Vogue and The Non-Issue In April 2019, alongside their regular monthly issue, Vogue released a supplementary publication dedicated specifically

the physical appearance of a woman and

to women past their fifties. The issue was

that the initiative itself could have been

released supporting that

commercially led as the magazine acts as advertorial supplement. Moreover, despite

‘’women over 50 remain conspicuous by

the fact that the special edition was meant

their absence in the beauty and fash-

to celebrate women over 50, age remained

ion industries, as well as the wider me-

a relevant detail, given that ‘’for a Non-Is-

dia landscape [and] discrimination most

sue that’s all about normalizing ageing,

definitely still exists, both consciously and

it’s all about ageing’’ (Majid, 2019).

unconsciously, leaving many women feel-

However, even though the Non-Issue was

ing excluded and invisible’’ (Diner, 2019).

a supplementary ‘treat’ for Vogue readers, and presumably a strategic move to

The special edition featured a well-known

test the market, it is still a welcome step

eighty-two-year-old

actress

from the magazine openly addressing

Jane Fonda on the cover, which is a bold

the problem of ageism in the fashion and

and progressive move towards greater di-

beauty industries (Bassett, 2019). On the

versity for this fashion bible. However, it is

other hand, while the magazine expressed

important to note that the addition to the

an ambition to diminish the stereotypes

original magazine was published in part-

about ageing and demonstrate a diverse

nership with cosmetics brand L’Oreal, re-

approach, showcasing women over 50 in

sulting in a subtle spread of ‘age-perfect-

a specialized issue contradicts the idea

ing’ product advertisements throughout

of inclusivity. The example of Vogue’s

the Non-Issue. Hence, the authenticity of

Non-Issue indicates that while a magazine

the Non-Issue idea is arguable, suggesting

is adopting the idea of inclusivity it also

that the magazine is still highly focused on

presents new threads of segregation.

American

(Majid, 2019)

‘‘

For a Non-Issue that’s all about normalizing ageing, it’s all about ageing.

CHAPTER 2 Aspirational realism and empowered consumer Continuing from the previous section, it is important to understand how the attitudes of immature individualists impact the ways brands can establish connections with them on a more personal level. Referring to the PEST analysis (see appendix fig.5), women over 50 are not only a power consumer of fashion and beauty industries, they are also an increasingly digital savvy cohort. However, it is important to note that according to the primary research findings, almost 58% of Boomer women respondents stated that fashion and beauty brands currently fail to communicate with them (see appendix fig.7), which is a relatively significant number indicating that a portion of this cohort does not feel appropriately acknowledged as consumers. The frustration was further expanded by one-to-one interview participants; ‘’What I don’t like is that they show either very young women or way older greyhaired models. So, it feels like you’re either gorgeous young lady or a grandma and there’s no in-between. I know I’m no longer a teenager but it just makes me feel uncomfortable when in my 50s I’m grouped with someone in their 80s, I’m just not there yet.’’ (0003, 2019). 52

As previously touched upon in the literature review, this once again signifies that consumer categorization based on age is an inappropriate marketing strategy, leaving them misrepresented and this way reinforcing stereotypes and unrealistic expectations about women past their fifties, as further explained by another participant: ‘’[…]when [fashion and beauty] brands have a consumer of our age in mind, they

usually

show

someone

grey-

haired presuming we all look the same but lots of women I know, including myself, still dye their hair and it’s not because we want to look younger, it’s a matter of choice’’ (0002, 2019) These opinions, therefore, highlight that as much as silver-haired models are a strong visual tool helping to draw the attention of a certain market, one particular look cannot appeal to every woman past their fifties, meaning that brands who do not acknowledge that could risk losing a significant part of their target audience.

This is especially important to address given that 80% of women over 50 reported that visual imagery used by brands influence their purchasing decisions (see appendix fig.7), accordingly meaning that consumers are more inclined to engage with brands that represent a narrative they can personally relate to and an integral diversity is the key. This was frequently highlighted by participants from the focus group 2; ‘’if a brand visually portrays empowering message in their marketing, I think we would feel noticed and also more interested in that brand and their products’’ (5656, 2019) To further expand on brand’s visual power, focus group 2 participants were asked to express their feelings towards certain beauty brands advertising campaigns. All the women jointly agreed with the campaign by Dove (see appendix fig.11) to be the most effective one, stating that ‘’it leaves no unrealistic expectations what a woman should look like and definitely draws our attention in a really positive way’’ (5858, 2019). As opposed to this, the campaign by Dior (see appendix fig.9) was critiqued by all of the participants, concluding that the representation of the product is ‘’off-putting’’ (5858, 2019) and the campaign itself is ‘’demoralising’’ (2525, 2019) due to a wrong selection of a younger model. This finding therefore suggests that an accurate and realistic portrayals are crucial in building consumer’s trust. 54

Therefore, it is apparent that brands have to acknowledge the value of Boomer women leaving the subconscious age bias behind and putting more effort in engaging them as consumers. It is particularly essential as focus group participants believe that brands have a power to diminish the invisibility which is often experienced by Discussions with the founder and creative

women over 50 and frequently mentioned

director of Rennaisance magazine further

within the focus group 1;

implied why women over 50 are not entirely satisfied with the way fashion and

‘’I think when a brand really cares about

beauty industries currently operate, espe-

a certain issue or the way its consumers

cially when it comes to positive, age-in-

feel, it should make an effort to build […]

clusive messages;

a deeper connection with them that translates into a genuine and positive message,

‘’It is about brands being sensitive and in-

and that could be done by just showing us

clusive [given that] by working with mod-

more real diversity, real women, someone

els across all ages, brands can empower

we can actually relate to, which I think

women […] and yet, most brands don’t

makes a brand automatically seem more

regularly include older models in their

accessible’’ (3333, 2019).

imagery on the website, social media platforms or in stores [which] leads to many

This quote further illustrates how self-em-

women over 50 feeling invisible’’ (Lowe,

powered consumers do not feel significant

2020).

connection with brands that maintain indifferent marketing approach. This, there-

As stated from a consumer’s point of view

fore, indicates that consumer engagement

during one-to-one interviews:

is vital in order to develop lasting relationships and stimulate loyalty due to a brand

‘’I’m 62 and from fashion’s perspective

being authentic and corresponding with

I should probably be boring and so long

their values and attitudes. This was also

past it. But I still care the way I look,

reflected within secondary sources as they

the way I dress. I think fashion has just

continuously stated that Boomer women

forgotten about women my age. Or just

demand for brands that are integral and

presumes that we don’t belong here any-

authentic in their approach (Kurbjeweit,

more’’ (0004, 2019).

2018). 55

CHAPTER 3 Women Inspire Women aka The Power Of Intergenerational Connections The potential concept of intergeneration-

The discussions with the founder of The-

al connections was touched upon in the

Bias-Cut age-inclusive online boutique,

literature review, therefore it was impor-

highlighted the importance of bridging

tant to understand consumer response to

the gap between generations stating that

such tactics and the way it would resonate with their values and brand preferenc-

‘’Ageism is the only ‘ism’ that will inevita-

es. For instance, the questionnaire aimed

bly affect all of us, that is why it doesn’t

at a general public suggested that 75% of

only concern women over 50. I believe it

respondents of which 86% were female

is important to educate younger gener-

would be more interested in a brand if it

ations for a more positive future. Fash-

represented a mixture of ages (see appen-

ion and beauty industries that go hand

dix fig.8), which inevitably indicates that

in hand can foster these conversations’’

consumers increasingly value brands that

(Bassett, 2020).

apply age-inclusive approach into their strategies. From a commercial perspec-

Therefore, it is evident that fashion and

tive, creating intergenerational content is

beauty brands could combat the issue

key for brands as it could boost their mon-

of age discrimination by creating a joint

etary gains due to its potential appeal to a

dialogue between different age groups.

wider audience.

Secondary research also suggested that

More notably, members of focus groups 1

Millennials have a great potential for re-

demonstrated a concern about the impact

jecting ageism and promoting positive

fashion and beauty industries have on

attitudes due to them being ethnically di-

younger generations;

verse, tolerant and confident generation (Vlietstra, 2020). Hence, this concept was

‘’[…] fashion and beauty industries, in

further applied within the focus group 2,

particular, are kind of responsible of pro-

which included women that represented

moting a positive image to younger gener-

both, Boomer and Millennial generations,

ations, whether it’s about body size or life

in order to gain a deeper understanding

at certain age’’ (2222, 2019).

of their perceptions towards age diversity in current fashion and beauty industries.

What stood out from this research method is that participants over 50 demonstrat-

the idea whilst emphasizing the impor-

ed openness and thoughtful attitudes to-

tance of seeing more older women in the

wards their younger counterparts suggest-

media and how it can influence their feel-

ing that

ings towards later life;

‘’[…] representing women of ALL AGES

‘’It should be a priority for fashion and

would be a very favourable thing. It is nice

beauty brands to represent real women.

to see both, younger and older women out

And I think seeing older women is espe-

there and there is a lot we can learn from

cially important as there is not much age

each other and […] it’s about spreading

diversity nowadays, which is just disap-

positivity to women of all age groups’’

pointing. I think generally older women

(5858, 2019).

can be really inspiring and you sort of know what to expect from later life and

This correlated with opinions expressed by

who you aspire to be and so you worry

Millennial women, who further supported

less about the ageing itself’’ (2727, 2019). 57

When all the participants were showed an

Again, this illustrates consumers’ prefer-

image of an unretouched beauty campaign

ence for brands that do not focus on age

by Babor (see appendix fig. 12), they col-

and represents seamless inclusion.

lectively agreed on how powerful it was;

On a larger scale, these perspectives indicate that women of different age groups

‘’I like the fact that they’re showing young-

need an inspiration and mutual support

er and older women in the same sort of

they potentially gain from one another,

position, like there are no exclusions in

therefore all of them addressed age diver-

being yourself and being beautiful’’ (6161,

sity as a necessity for fashion and beauty

2019).

brands.

KEY INSIGHTS

Women over 50 have a strong sense of self and are confident with their age, accepting their life stage with positivity, however do not want to be reminded about their maturity.

Women over 50 have individualistic mindsets and their product preferences may vary, however they do not want to be separated as a specialised consumer group.

The culture of anti-ageing is gradually fading as consumers increasingly embrace ageing and want their natural beauty to be celebrated.

Women over 50 are increasingly digital savvy with an active use of social media, which provides brands a convenient channel to reach these consumers, however, sensible communication is key.

Women over 50 have a strong demand for brands that are authentic, create relatable narratives and champion diversity while not emphasising age but not ignoring it either.

‘‘

According to International Longevity Centre, the fashion and beauty industry’s “shameful sidelining” of older consumers could cost it £11bn over the next 20 years (Hill, 2020)

‘‘

Intergenerational connections are highly valuable as they can empower women of different age groups and promote a positive message that in the long term have a potential to combat ageism within society. This is also deemed to be a profitable tactic for brands that strive to market for longevity.

05.

CONCLUSION 63

CRITICAL REFLECTIONS

Overall, throughout the research it has been made clear that age is not a constraint when marketing to women over 50. Limitations lie within how that age is perceived from both, consumers and

To conclude, after thorough primary and

brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s points of view. While some brands

secondary research investigations, the

have already tapped into this market, the

report has uncovered a number of find-

progress towards age inclusion is gradual

ings regarding the complex attitudes and

and still seem to require greater attention

mindsets of women over 50 and how it in-

in order for this to become a norm rath-

fluences their demands from brands. This

er than the exception. However, the re-

body of research has also examined how

search conducted demonstrated positive

womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s age and shifts in their behaviours

future prospects in regards of the issue

affect the way fashion and beauty brands

of age diversity and inclusion in fashion

currently cater to these consumers, which

and beauty industries. Nonetheless, with-

helped to discern potential gaps in the mar-

in the following stage of the project, fur-

ket. Furthermore, the report examined the

ther investigations will be required into

importance of age-inclusive marketing to

the management of proposed recommen-

both consumers and brands, in the context

dations. The exact application of the ide-

of fashion and beauty industries. Research

as will be investigated through additional

findings highlighted that women over 50

primary research methods throughout the

increasingly reject stereotypes and de-

process of concept development, while

mand for brands that demonstrate authen-

secondary research will assist in discern-

ticity and age-agnostic approach. There-

ing potential financial restrictions and

fore, as populations are ageing, this will

possible ways to decrease them when

inevitably cause brands to adapt the nar-

moving forward. Finally, the report has

rative of agelessness that would increase

provided valuable insights, which could

their appeal to wider audiences and en-

be utilised by both, fashion and beauty in-

sure longevity to their businesses through

dustries to improve their current relation-

established

ships with this highly valuable market.

long-lasting

relationships.

WHAT IS MISSING? BRAND SCENARIO AUTHENTICITY

Brands are representing women authentically, however age is emphasized.

Brands are representing diverse range of women in an authentic way. Age-agnostic approach is key to ensure longevity for the business.

AGE-FOCUSED APPROACH

AGE-AGNOSTIC APPROACH

Brands are representing women as a separate consumer group focusing solely on demographic segmentation.

Brands are representing women in an age-inclusive manner; however, consumer loyalty is disrupted due to inauthenticity.

MISSTRUST

THREE HORIZONS

NOW. Brands cater to women as a separate consumer group. Representations often lack authenticity.

NEAR TERM. Brands engage women into the marketing their strategies in a more organic way. Representations are diverse and growing in authenticity.

3. 66

FUTURE. Brands cater to women focusing on different identities and lifestyles. Age is no longer an indicator for segmentation. Age inclusivity becomes the norm.

RECOMMENDATIONS Taking into consideration key insights and conclusion made after extensive research, the opportunities to be further explored within the next stage have been discerned as follows:

To explore a business concept, through which individual womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs can be adhered to without demographic segregation.

To explore a potential of an online or offline platform that celebrates diversity amongst all women appealing to wider age groups through seamless integration and identity driven marketing.

To create a service that caters to women over 50 offering personalisaed solutions by focusing on personalities and attitudes rather than age.

06.

APPENDIX 69

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Irving, P., Beamish, R. and Burstein, A. (2018). Silver To Gold The Business of Ageing. [online] Milken Institute. Available at: https://milkeninstitute.org/sites/default/files/reports-pdf/FINAL-Silver-to-Gold-0226. pdf [Accessed 3 Jan. 2020]. McCan. (2017). The Truth about age. [online] Available at: http://mccann.co.za/assets/files/documents/ Truth-About-Age1.pdf [Accessed 29 Nov. 2019]. J. Walter Thompson (2017). Elastic Generation: The Female Edit. [online] J. Walter Thompson Intelligence, p.4. Available at: https://jwt.co.uk/uploads/pdfs/234000_Elastic-Generation-The-Female-Edit.-FINAL.pdf [Accessed 3 Dec. 2019]. WEBSITES Baum, C. (2018). The ugly truth about ageism: it’s a prejudice targeting our future selves. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/sep/14/the-ugly-truth-about-ageism-its-a-prejudice-targeting-our-future-selves [Accessed 21 Dec. 2019]. Bassett, J. (2019). Vogue’s Ageless Style ‘The Non-Issue’ - Progressive or Problematic?. [online] The Bias Cut. Available at: https://the-bias-cut.com/blogs/news/vogues-ageless-style-the-non-issue-progressiveor-problematic [Accessed 4 Jan. 2020]. Boyce, C. and Neale, P. (2006). CONDUCTING IN-DEPTH INTERVIEWS: A Guide for Designing and Conducting In-Depth Interviews for Evaluation Input. [online] Www2.pathfinder.org. Available at: http:// www2.pathfinder.org/site/DocServer/m_e_tool_series_indepth_interviews.pdf [Accessed 9 Dec. 2019]. Davis, P. (2018). Women Over 50 Are Often Disregarded by Marketers. Here’s Why That Needs to End Now. [online] Ad Week. Available at: https://www.adweek.com/brand-marketing/women-over-50-are-often-disregarded-by-marketers-heres-why-that-needs-to-end-now/ [Accessed 2 Jan. 2020]. Diner, J. (2019). British Vogue & L’Oréal Paris Present The Non-Issue Issue. [online] British Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/british-vogue-loreal-paris-present-the-non-issue-issue [Accessed 2 Jan. 2020]. Douglas, S. (2019). Why age is the new diversity issue. [online] LS: N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/opinion/article/24018/why-age-is-the-new-diversity-issue [Accessed 20 Nov. 2019]. Friend, H. (2018). Markets: The Flat Age Women. [online] LS: N Global. Available at: https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/markets/article/23307/flat-age-women-market [Accessed 28 Nov. 2019]. Gibbs, A. (1997). Social Research Update 19: Focus Groups. [online] Sru.soc.surrey.ac.uk. Available at: http://sru.soc.surrey.ac.uk/SRU19.html [Accessed 14 Dec. 2019]. Glasgow, K. (2013). “A new old age? Exploring the values, attitudes and expectations of baby boomers and their implications for policy and practice in an ageing society”. [online] Available at: https://researcharchive.vuw.ac.nz/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10063/3683/thesis.pdf?sequence=2 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2019]. Goldston, N. (2018). How To Harness The Untapped Spending Power Of The 50-ish Super Consumer. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/njgoldston/2018/08/21/how-to-harness-the-untapped-spending-power-of-the-50-ish-super-consumer/#4a79dec416db [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019]. Hess, A. (2017). The Ever-Changing Business of ‘Anti-Aging’. [online] The New York Times. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/12/magazine/the-ever-changing-business-of-anti-aging.html [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Hill, A. (2020). Fashion industry’s ageism could cost it £11bn in next 20 years. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jan/05/fashion-industry-ageism-older-consumers [Accessed 9 Jan. 2020].

Houghton, A. and Thayer, C. (2019). AARP 2019 Survey of Women’s Reflections on Age, Beauty, and Media. [online] AARP. Available at: https://www.aarp.org/research/topics/life/info-2019/womens-reflections-beauty-age-media.html [Accessed 5 Dec. 2019]. Hsu, T. (2019). Older People Are Ignored and Distorted in Ageist Marketing, Report Finds. [online] The New York Times. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/23/business/ageism-advertising-aarp.html [Accessed 12 Dec. 2019]. Yee, K. (2018). The super consumers most Marketers are overlooking - The Social Element. [online] The Social Element. Available at: https://thesocialelement.agency/uper-consumers-most-marketers-are-overlooking/ [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Kurbjeweit, G. (2018). Wake Up, Marketers: Boomer Women Have Money to Spend. [online] Media Post. Available at: https://www.mediapost.com/publications/article/314421/wake-up-marketers-boomer-women-have-money-to-spe.html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2020]. Livingstone, J. (2018). The Myth of #MeToo’s Generational Divide. [online] The New Republic. Available at: https://newrepublic.com/article/147124/myth-metoo-generational-divide [Accessed 24 Jan. 2020]. March, B. (2018). The new beauty campaigns truly celebrating ageing. [online] Harper’s BAZAAR. Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/beauty-shows-trends/a23113445/beauty-campaigns-celebrating-ageing/ [Accessed 4 Jan. 2020]. Majid, S. (2019). Is British Vogue and L’Oreal’s special edition on ageism, ageist?. [online] Creative Moment. Available at: https://www.creativemoment.co/is-british-vogue-and-loreals-special-edition-on-ageism-ageist [Accessed 3 Jan. 2020]. Ratcliffe, A. (2019). What do older women want from fashion?. [online] RTE. Available at: https://www.rte. ie/brainstorm/2019/0121/1024555-what-do-older-women-want-from-fashion/ [Accessed 14 Dec. 2019]. Skapinker, M. (2019). Marketing to baby boomers has proved a sorry Saga. [online] Financial Times. Available at: https://www.ft.com/content/bacfcb0a-57a8-11e9-91f9-b6515a54c5b1 [Accessed 14 Dec. 2020].

Suciu, P. (2020). Social Media Is Improving Their Lives, Say Baby Boomers. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/petersuciu/2020/01/13/social-media-is-improving-theirlives-say-baby-boomers/#7e9398642ee1 [Accessed 15 Jan. 2020]. Tomboc, K. (2019). What Makes Baby Boomer Women Buy (An Infographic). [online] Easelly. Available at: https://www.easel.ly/blog/baby-boomer-women-infographic/ [Accessed 18 Oct. 2019]. Chicago Tribune. (2019). Chicago Tribune. [online] Available at: https://www.tribpub.com/gdpr/chicagotribune.com/ [Accessed 9 Jan. 2020]. Vizard, S. (2018). Brands should stop seeing age as a defining feature of the over-50s. [online] Marketing Week. Available at: https://www.marketingweek.com/brands-stop-age-defining-feature-over-50s/ [Accessed 17 Dec. 2019]. Vlietstra, L. (2020). How millennials turn the rising tide against ageism. [online] Stuff. Available at: https:// www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/life/118773235/how-millennials-turn-the-rising-tide-against-ageism [Accessed 16 Jan. 2020]. Williams, K. (2017). More Than a Number: Ageism in Fashion. [online] ORANGE Magazine. Available at: https://orangemag.co/orangeblog/2017/10/30/more-than-a-number-ageism-in-fashion [Accessed 11 Dec. 2019]. Williams, Z. (2018). Why anti-ageing is out in the beauty industry. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2018/sep/16/why-anti-ageing-is-out-in-the-beauty-industry [Accessed 9 Dec. 2019].

PRESENTATIONS Koziol, N. and Arthur, A. (n.d.). An Introduction to Secondary Data Analysis.

BIBLIOGRAPHY REPORTS McCann Worldgroup Canada (2018). The Truth About Canadian Women Over 50: The Untapped Opportunity. [online] Available at: https://truthaboutcanadianwomen.ca/women-over-50.html#home [Accessed 4 Jan. 2020]. WEBSITES Adenaike, D. (2019). The Power of Inclusive Marketing in Brand Communications. [online] Odwyerpr. Available at: https://www.odwyerpr.com/story/public/12552/2019-05-22/power-inclusive-marketing-brand-communications.html [Accessed 4 Jan. 2020]. Attest. (2019). Age Is Just a Number: Why Age-Agnostic Marketing Works. [online] Available at: https://www.askattest.com/blog/marketing/why-age-agnostic-marketing-works [Accessed 19 Dec. 2019]. Bain, M. (2020). Fashion’s obsession with youth could cost it billions. [online] Quartz. Available at: https://qz.com/1780231/fashion-for-older-shoppers-is-a-massive-market-opportunity/ [Accessed 12 Jan. 2020]. Baldwin, L. (2019). The Greynaissance - Debunking stereotypes around baby boomers. [online] Kinneir Dufort. Available at: https://www.kinneirdufort.com/insight/the-greynaissance-debunking-stereotypes-around-baby-boomers/ [Accessed 3 Jan. 2020]. Beer, J. (2019). Why marketing to seniors is so terrible. [online] Fast Company. Available at: https://www.fastcompany.com/90341477/why-marketing-to-seniors-is-so-terrible [Accessed 31 Nov. 2019]. Davis, D. (2020). Ignoring older consumers in favor of courting millennials and Gen Zers could cost the fashion industry over $14 billion in the next 20 years, new research says. [online] Business Insider. Available at: https://www.businessinsider.com/ageism-in-fashion-could-cost-theindustry-over-14-billion-2020-1?r=US&IR=T [Accessed 14 Jan. 2020]. Friend, T. (2017). Why Ageism Never Gets Old. [online] The New Yorker. Available at: https://www. newyorker.com/magazine/2017/11/20/why-ageism-never-gets-old [Accessed 12 Jan. 2020]. Helfenbaum, W. (2019). Women Of A “Certain Age” Shake Off Stereotypes And Disrupt The Fashion World - YOUAREUNLTD. [online] YOUAREUNLTD. Available at: https://www.youareunltd. com/2019/02/28/women-of-a-certain-age-shake-off-stereotypes-and-disrupt-the-fashion-world/ [Accessed 7 Jan. 2020]. Herdman, R. (2019). Actor Robyn Malcolm Wants Women Of All Ages Celebrated In Fashion. [online] Viva. Available at: https://www.viva.co.nz/article/fashion/lonely-lingerie-robyn-malcolm-on-ageism-in-the-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 3 Jan. 2020].

Yalcinkaya, G. (2019). Is the beauty industry finally addressing its problem with age?. [online] Dazed. Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/head/article/45470/1/is-the-beautyindustry-finally-addressing-its-problem-with-age [Accessed 15 Dec. 2019]. McGregor, K. (2019). Selling to the silver spenders. [online] Drapers. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/retail/selling-to-the-silver-spenders/7036210.article [Accessed 22 Nov. 2019]. Phillips, B. (2016). Marketers Take Second Look at Over-50 Consumers. [online] The New York Times. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/06/business/retirementspecial/marketers-take-secondlook-at-over-50-consumers.html [Accessed 23 Dec. 2019]. Phillips, L. (2019). Being seen: how is age diversity effecting change in fashion and beauty?. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/sep/14/being-seen-how-is-age-diversity-effecting-change-in-fashion-and-beauty [Accessed 6 Dec. 2019]. Tesseras, L. (2019). Stop defining over-50s by age alone or risk long-term brand decay. [online] Marketing Week. Available at: https://www.marketingweek.com/marketing-to-over-50s/ [Accessed 7 Dec. 2019]. Wren, C. (2018). Building Brands For The Women Over 50 Market. [online] Branding Strategy Insider. Available at: https://www.brandingstrategyinsider.com/building-brands-for-the-women-over-50-market/#. Xil44xP7Q0p [Accessed 13 Jan. 2020].

VIDEOS TedxTalks (2017). Lets and Ageism Ashton Applewhite. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=WfjzkO6_DEI&t=189s [Accessed 20 Nov. 2019].

APPENDIX Fig.1 Age-branding (Moody and Sasser, 2014) a) age-denial brands (‘’I don’t have to get old’’) Denying one’s age, as a result, induces consumers to demand brands that would help them look or even feel young. Brands, in response, utilise as a strategy to target consumers, who, either consciously or subconsciously, refuse to embrace their current age and its perceptible consequences.

c) age-irrelevant brands (‘’Mind over matter – if you don’t mind it doesn’t matter’’) Age-irrelevant brands do not base their strategies around targeting particular age group, otherwise creating an appropriate image that would appeal to consumers regardless of life stage.

Fig.2 Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs

Maslows Hierarchy Of Needs. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://www. simplypsychology.org/maslow-5.jpg [Accessed 26 Nov. 2019].

b) ‘’age-adaptive brands (‘’Age presents problems but I can deal with them’’) Age-adaptive brands serve older consumers providing functional solutions to the inconveniences experienced when reaching later life. Life stage targeting moves away from age denial adapting to current consumers’ needs instead. However, age-adaptive brands or marketing strategies can only be successful if communicated to a consumer in an appealing way.

d) and age-affirmative brands (‘’The best is yet to be’’) Age-affirmative branding celebrates age as an achievement and utilises it as a fundamental aspect in developing the personality of a brand. Ageless marketing strategies respond to age resistance by breaking barriers and conveying positive messages around ageing.

Fig.3 Palmolive advertisement from the 1930s

Palmolive vintage advertisement. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/2c/27/b8/2c27b8305d5c220e63689148db8b4874.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2019].

Fig.4 Mixed-method triangulation strategy

PMixed-method Triangulation. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Amara_Atif/publication/280860447/figure/fig1/AS:394068480806946@1470964655765/AVisual-Diagram-of-the-Mixed-Methods-Concurrent-Triangulation-Strategy-The-researchers. png [Accessed 13 Dec. 2019].

Fig.5 PEST

POLITICAL. Activism feeds activism.

ECONOMICAL. The rise of silver spenders.

“Beyond the celebrities in the spotlight, older women are struggling to keep their jobs due to ageism and sexism, suffering in silence as they are marginalized, passed over and pushed out” (Chicago Tribune, 2019) However, writer Ashton Applewhite notes that the #MeToo movement helped to expose the issue of ageism acting as a ‘’catalyst for universal equality’’ (Baum, 2018). Therefore, ‘’since women experience sexism in very age-specific ways’’ (Livingstone, 2018), anti-ageist movement is predicted to be the next ‘#MeToo’. This potentially means that brands will have to acknowledge the issue internally and externally; from the equal age diversity of their workforce, to the age inclusive-content within their marketing campaigns.

In terms of women over 50, according to Ad Week, the spending power of these consumers accounts for more than 27% of all consumer spending, which is 3% more than their male counterparts (Davis, 2018). On a greater scale, ‘’Older people increased their spending on clothes and shoes by 21% – or £2.9bn – between 2011 and 2018 [and] by 2040, people aged 50 and over are expected to be this sector’s key consumer base’’ (Hill, 2020). This eventually indicates brands may potentially loose commercial befit by ignoring the ageing consumer.

SOCIAL Shifting demographics.

TECHNOLOGICAL. Digital connectivity.

In 2014, the average age in the UK exceeded 40 for the first time and, according to the Office for National Statistics, by 2040, almost one in four people (24.2%) will be aged 65 or over (Douglas, 2019). This, therefore, suggests that in order to keep up with the ageing populations and ensure longevity to their businesses, brands will have to build long-term relationships with consumers by shaping their marketing strategies and adopting more age-inclusive approach.

Digital connectivity puts an emphasis on social media channels. ‘’According to new research from Security.org, it seems that Baby Boomers are using social media daily, and more importantly 84% of Boomers report that social media is likely to improve their lives’’ (Suciu, 2020). When it comes to women over 50, there was a recent rise of mid-life social media influencers. ‘’While age positivity may not be acknowledged in the mass media, channels such as Instagram are allowing Flat age women to curate and control their public image’’ (Friend, 2018). Such phenomenon inevitably suggests brands can take advantage of even more convenient ways to connect with this consumer cohort.

Fig.6 The Three Horizon Model

The Three Horizon Model. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://steveblank.files.wordpress. com/2017/10/three-horizons.png [Accessed 27 Feb. 2019].

Fig.7 Survey for women over 50

Fig.8 Survey for a general public

Dove L’oreal, Primark Always and Gillette Dove usually. There was a Helen Mirren one recently too. N/a Magnum X Iris Apfel I don’t watch ads Tom Ford - https://www.thedollsfactory.com/2010/12/vogue-paris-the-tom-ford-issue.html & fashion designer Patrick Church Marketing company Faberlic Lafayette 148 New York No Dove? Boots ? Always lighthearted Some token marketing about embracing your age but still including age reducing products ICON campaign Nivea, Drogas Dove beauty products Lóreal Joint oil Orthayu Nivea commercials Dove ads for hearing aids, senior residence, home care, etc. Recent ads for skin care Clothing advertisements on TV Dove, Kate spade,

models Models models are younger and unrealistic Ads are for beauty products meant to preserve youthful features such as “no sagging skin” “no wrinkles around your bustline, neck, eyes, lips” etc etc Gray hair, wrinkles, usually women over 60 Usually older women in skin care ads, remaining “youthful” and “vibrant” Youthful colours Wrinkled, hair Always look younger then 50 Usually promoting anti-ageing products They use young old women. Usually thin and attractive too. Skin, hair The ads are less focussed on beauty because it is thought that women over 50 do not care how they look Wrinkly women ‘Plain looking’, blending in to the back ground kind of look, normally advertising dentures or incontinence pads. About looking more youthful, reducing wrinkles or grey hair etc. Not sure Acceptance Models are usually fragile Excessive bright lighting grey haired celebrities ‘embracing’ their age elderly models but with lush, clear skin and heaps of energy Lots of makeup, anti-aging creams Well in TV commercials they are often used to promote some type of medication Usually middle-class suburban caucasian women Outfit style didn’t pay attention Nice appearance Claims to make old women look young, skincare, etc. old fashion clothes The chosen models/actors are way younger than the characters they are portraying The taglines always emphasize on wrinkle free look, models are always shown youthful and fit but in reality a 50+ woman has a different body type owing to menopause and fast aging of the skin. Women that have aged very gracefully Harmony, satisfaction I’ve seen such ads Curvy models, focus on natural look Inclusive casting Encouragement to look younger Clothes, shoes, hair coloure Ads are usually encouraging women to maintain youthful appearance large sizes Feeling good, about family life Focus on looking feeling/younger always aiming at these women wanting youthful looks, they seem to use actresses around that age but seem to airbrush them / make them look younger than they are? Often use younger looking celebrities and emphasise youth above everything else Normally about looking younger I have not noticed such kind pf ads I don’t know any Tend to be famous women or models who just happen to have good genes in regards to looking young Always about anti aging not embracing their skin Can still be beautiful and old - usually combat wrinkles Always smiley and gray hair Many are airbrushed and not representing real women menopause-related I guess? average looking woman (not particularly stylish), probably a wife and a mother / anti-aging, unrealistic models

Tend to be skin care ads to be youthful and wrinkle free using people of that age to state how amazing and youthful the product makes them look Nothing Wrinkle creams Women are introduced as grandmothers. Women only advertise cosmetics Focus on reducing wrinkles/signs of ageing Usually about wrinkles or skin care Models look anxious. They are usually about beauty and encouraging women to use products to prevent things like wrinkles (signs of age). The models are usually all means to look overly happy and I would say are young looking older women ie little wrinkles, skinny, white teeth etc. Either younger or way older models, usually promoting anti-aging skincare No idea focus on wrinkles Smooth skin, wrinkles gone hair Models have all had Botox, very fake and artificial they focus on their weaknesses, e.g inactivity Has to use anti-aging products Dress up Normally more plus sized models are used usually very glamourous older women promoting anti wrinkle cream, not an average everyday woman If they are still youthful Skin care for wrinkles and to look younger etc Type of models: usually their age models are younger idk Always about staying youthful and age “rewinding” ADS for youthful products for older women such as mositurisers portrays as models are happier because more youthful . Showing a message that if you aren’t using these products / aren’t trying to be youthful= aren’t happy. a young model is used Youth wrinkles etc Youthfulness in Cosmetics It is about looking younger - creams etc that are anti wrinkle To be honest, i cannot see that many ads for women over 50. Grey haired models ads for younger looking skin, lifelines, ads for nursing care. A grandma promoting cookies or commercials for senior living and life insurance Keep your youth. White models with visable wrinkles. Usually less thin models. More average normal sized more representative and usually abouy skin care Anti-aging products Wanting to be youthful Girls wanna have fun, that sort of phrase and embracing their natural bodies All older women, targeting at getting rid or wrinkles to look younger Range of both diverse races and ages

FOCUS GROUPS Focus group 1 GR: Hello everyone, thanks for joining my research project. First of all, I wanna introduce you to what I’m doing. So…I don’t know if you have noticed but Inclusivity movement is such an active movement across fashion and beauty industries right now with emerging representations of people of different genders, ethnicities and sizes, and yet age still remains a relatively sensitive topic. Therefore, my final year project at university is focused on female over 50 consumers in the context of age-inclusive marketing. Today I want to talk to you about your personal ageing experience as well as to hear your honest opinions on today’s fashion and beauty industries. Oh and I also have to mention that if at any time you no longer want to be a part of this research or no longer feel like discussing, you have a right to withdraw. Is everyone okay with it? Everyone: [nodding] Yeah. GR: Okay! So to start of, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 1111: Not at all! I don’t have problem with my age. I’m 58.

2222: I am 63. 3333: I’m 66. 4444: I’m 57. 5555: I’m 58. 6666: I seem to be the youngest! I’m 52. GR: Great! Would you like to be identified as mature? Everyone: No! GR: Why not? 1111: I don’t ever want to be mature. I’m not mature in any sense. 4444: I think we reference maturity as teachers when we talk to students, saying that ‘through maturity you gain experience’. But I wouldn’t want someone to reference me ‘oh that mature lady over there’. 3333: Well I know I am but I don’t want to be reminded about it. 2222: People saying mature may refer to the way a woman is dressed. But I don’t see myself like that. 6666: My age probably says I am but I certainly don’t feel like it. 5555: Yeah me neither. GR: Right. There is this saying that men do not age better than women, they are just allowed to age. Would you agree that women feel more pressure from the society keep youthful appearance? 1111: I don’t think men even care. 4444: I think… probably yeah… women are more pressured. Particularly in this day. We haven’t grown up with Instagram and all that but everything now is about image, and actually it’s false image majority of the time. 1111: Yeah, totally. All the real identities are fading. 5555: I would say we are, especially in today’s society. And I think it’s very much shaped by social media and marketing. 4444: Because I hear some comments when I’m looking at something on Instagram. It was something about ‘hiding your lines’ and I think ‘Oh my God, I never thought about that’. 3333: Yes, I think so too, there’s still too much of this ‘youth cult’ as if we can’t all be beautiful at any age. 6666: All the advertisements mainly show beautiful young women, so I feel like we’re encouraged to stay young literally on every corner these days. 2222: It’s true, and yeah, since everything is about image these days, when you’re getting older you sort of… Loose that commercial look as woman…? GR: And how does this make you feel? Do you think that, um, you have to follow this idea? 5555: I feel like we got used to not paying attention to these ridiculous expectations, it’s all about self-love at any age, I think. It’s how you feel not how you look. I certainly don’t feel the need to look younger just to meet societal expectations. 1111: That’s probably that we have to embrace age, don’t we? You can’t change it; you can’t go back. We have no choice, do we? It’s life! 4444: I would say with our age group… I’m generally talking… But probably women are confident anyway with how they are. Whereas now people are growing up with… I don’t know… A feeling of not being perfect? 2222: Yeah for us it all doesn’t matter. 6666: I’m not even sure how I feel, but what I don’t like is that we’re constantly being tried to sold the idea of ‘eternal youth’, especially from beauty brands. That just doesn’t work. Women our age just want to be treated like everyone else and encouraged to embrace our natural looks! 3333: Oh yeah, I feel like these industries are just taking advantage as if we’re not comfortable in our own skin. Well bad news, we are! 4444: Yeah… You just got to keep yourself fit and healthy. 2222: We have to take advantage of whatever’s available.

GR: Would you say that fashion and beauty industries are ageist? 3333: Um… Yeah, fashion and beauty… They do seem to be ageist. 4444: Yes. 2222: Yes… 1111: Yeah, they do come across like that but it is changing, isn’t it? When you look at the adverts on TV now – the full figure, a bit more confidence… 4444: But it’s still not much, is it really? 1111: No, not really… 6666: Well have you seen any older women on the catwalks? I mean there are some, but really not as many… And you don’t really see it that often. 5555: Yeah, it’s definitely not as many… Though, what I’ve noticed, from knitwear design’s perspective… There’s this Rowan magazine I casually read, and they feature even 80-year-old women wearing knits and they look really good. And that age is sort of juxtaposed with younger women, even 40-year-olds, so there’s no exclusion or isolation as if those knits are only suitable for youngsters. They show the same designs for younger and for older. 6666: Is it not that knitting is older women’s activity? 5555: No, I don’t think so. Although, I don’t know if you all noticed but age and appearance sort of corresponds to someone who would look visually good, and that’s usually someone young and skinny. That’s the main kind of people we see in the media. 3333: That’s true. And of course, it’s mostly visible in fashion and beauty industries, cause it’s probably not that aesthetic to show someone a bit older, wrinkly or overweight. 1111: Now diversity should be the norm but I don’t think it has really changed that much, has it...? GR: Do you think that there are certain stereotypes about women your age? 3333: There probably are… Always were… 1111: That we should behave in a certain way? But we are not going to. I think for me, I’m just not going down that route. You know what I mean? I’m just going to be me. I’m not going to change. I’m not conforming to anything, especially, how women in my age should ‘age’ or ‘dress’. 4444: You see, I think some people think ‘oh I’m certain age and I should be this or do that’. But I don’t think you really age, you just carry on. 1111: I could think ‘Oh my God, I’m 58’! But I actually don’t think of it at all. I don’t care. 2222: No, I never give it a second thought either. 5555: Yeah, when you are used to doing certain things, even going to the gym, you still do it without thinking that you can’t because you’re past certain age. 6666: I think those stereotypes are probably about the way we should dress or look. But I guess that’s how society sees us…. Cause we just don’t care. 2222: Yeah... You just do what you want and wear what you want really. 4444: I don’t know if this is a right comment, but I think in this country you can start to become a bit invisible once you’ve gone past certain age. Everyone: [nodding] Yeah. 4444: So, I am not sure how younger age groups look at us as an age group… GR: Why do you think that is? 4444: Because you hear… I don’t know… You sort of hear people say it. I read this poem once, which is really sad about an old lady, probably in her eighties, and just what she had written, how she’s older but her mind is still the same. It’s just you’re maybe not so active but people are almost dismissive of you. 3333: Yeah this is sad but it’s very true. 1111: They’ve been saying that when you get over 55, you’re almost on a scrappy bit of this country. 6666: You could probably even blame fashion and beauty industries. They either want us to stay young or ignore us just the way we are. And these industries have that… I don’t know… Visual power? 5555: Yeah that’s a good point. Cause if no one really sees older people it’s like we don’t even exist, and so everything is about youth these days. GR: Do you think that brands have a certain power to diminish that invisibility of women past their fifties?

3333: I think when a brand really cares about a certain issue or the way its consumers feel, it should make an effort to build sort of a deeper connection with them that translates into a genuine and positive message and that could be done by just showing us more actual diversity, real women, someone we can actually relate to, which I think makes the brands automatically seem more accessible. Everyone: [nodding] 1111: That’s true and I think all brands have a responsibility on what they put out cause this influences people of ALL ages. GR: So, would you say that more inclusivity in terms of age could help to change perceptions of ageing to younger people? 2222: Oh yes sure! Anon: I feel like fashion industry, in particular, is kind of responsible of promoting a positive image to younger generations, whether it’s about body size or life at certain age. But we still don’t see it much in the media. 1111: Yes, definitely. 4444: I think it could. I mean it takes time but it would do. 3333: Yes, definitely. 6666: If you could just steal the glamorous young images… 5555: I think it could. There would be less fear and uncertainty about getting older. GR: If you could change something in current fashion and beauty industries, what would it be? 3333: I would say more diversity in terms of age. And more accurate representations of women like us. 6666: Yes, definitely. Also…Why can’t we just be shown just the way younger people are shown? We’re still active and want to look fit and healthy and wear stylish clothes no matter our age. After all, women our age are beautiful and deserve to be seen! 1111: Exactly. I think they should pay more attention to women our age group. 5555: Yeah, I think fashion and beauty industries still have to realise that our value doesn’t sort of fade as we age. It doesn’t have an expiry date. We are here and we want to be a part of this culture but, of course, in a more realistic portrayal. 2222: I think they should stop trying to fight the age in the first place. There’s nothing bad about getting older! It’s actually fun! 4444: Yeah, I would say more diversity and positivity too. And more individuality. We are all different and we experience different things in life and especially when you start to age, you want those industries to go hand in hand with you without forcing you to look younger and instead, just empowering you. GR: And… When it comes to each of you… How do you feel about yourself in general? Has your self-perception changed over the years? 1111: I think as you get older, you get a bit more confident. In your twenties you’re learning about yourself, you’re bit all over the place; in thirties you start thinking ‘yeah, I know where I’m going’; I think forties is when you feel good about yourself and you know who you are and what you want, you probably have a career that you enjoy and… that’s how it stays really. 4444: I suppose in your twenties you’re a bit more nervous about life, whereas now you don’t care what anybody thinks. 3333: I feel really good. I think I’m more confident than I ever was before. I have less doubts and I know what I want. 5555: Absolutely more confident and sure about life and decisions, even when it comes to shopping. 6666: I also feel I care less now what people think than used to when I was younger. I’m just happy in my own skin and don’t want any beauty or fashion brands to make me feel otherwise! [laughs] GR: That’s all then. Thank you so much for your time and contribution to my project. 4444: No worries, hope it was helpful! Good luck! Everyone: [nodding; sounds of agreement].

Focus group 2 Gabriele: Hello everyone! Thank you for coming and joining this focus group. First of all, I want to introduce you to what I’m doing. So…I don’t know if you have noticed but Inclusivity movement is such an active movement across fashion and beauty industries right now with emerging representations of people of different genders, ethnicities and sizes, and yet age still remains a relatively sensitive topic. Therefore, my final year project at university is focused on female over 50 consumers in the context of age-inclusive marketing. And this is actually one of the reasons why I invited you for an equal split of two different age groups to kind of start that inter-generational conversation going. So today I want to hear your thoughts on current fashion and beauty marketing in relation to age representation. Is that okay with everyone? Everyone: [sounds of agreement]. Gabriele: I also have to mention that if at any time you no longer want to be a part of this research or no longer feel like discussing, you have a right to withdraw. Is everyone okay with it? Everyone: [nodding]. GR: So… before we start, since this project is about age-inclusivity, is everyone comfortable with revealing their age to me? 5858: That’s okay. I’m 58. 5656: I’m 56. 2525: I’m 25. 3030: I’m 30. 6161: I’m 61. 2727: I’m 27. GR: So the first question is…Do you think contemporary marketing is youth-oriented when it comes to fashion and beauty industries? Just say what you think from your own perspective 5858: I think even something that is actually aimed at women our age is represented by way younger faces. So yeah, I think it is. 2727: Yeah, I definitely agree. I mean… Most of the products from fashion and beauty are promoted by younger models. My mom, for example, she’s 55 by the way, always says that she thinks fashion is not for her anymore or that she feels she can’t use certain beauty products, like brighter make-up, cause of her age. 5656: Yeah… Well… I think not all marketing is youth-oriented. The problem is they don’t really reflect REAL women. We either see gorgeous young girls, exactly, girls! Or… Successful older celebrities. It’s nice to look at them of course, especially if it’s someone like Helen Mirren, but it’s still hard to relate. 6161: I personally think that fashion and beauty marketing is not necessarily youth-oriented, as in younger people, but it is definitely focused on the idea of selling that youthfulness. 5958: Yeah, I think most of the marketing aimed at us is beauty and cosmetics related and it’s still about looking younger. With fashion it’s hard to say. Most of the brands are showing younger women because we don’t see many women our age in the ads. 2525: I would agree on that. With fashion, I don’t even notice as many ads showing older women. I know beauty does, but again it’s usually about skincare and looking younger. It’s a tricky question actually when you think about it. 3030: I think it surely is youth-oriented. I think I’ve even heard somewhere that Milennials and Gen Z are the most influential consumers, so it’s probably natural for brands to follow them, which might be the reason there is such a big focus on youth and older women are sort of left out, at least visually. GR: So, what do you think is wrong with fashion or beauty ads that are aimed at women over 50? 5858: Well there’s too little of them in the first place. 6161: I guess we don’t see our peers! [laughs] Mostly young women. Of course, it’s nice to look at them but I wish there was more women our age.

2525: Yeah, I think it’s not that many of them… Not that I can think of… Well except those mainstream ones about ant-wrinkle creams and stuff like that. 5454: I personally find them frustrating, especially with beauty ads because we keep being told to fix ourselves. We’re kind of written off of the mainstream, aren’t we? If that makes sense… You sort of have to adjust yourself… All the brands and fashion designers don’t even consider you as a client cause you’re… ‘’too old’’? 5858: That’s true… And I think that’s the problem… There are either very few ads where we can actually ‘’see’’ ourselves, other ones are just telling us that we’re not enough. 3030: I think what’s wrong is that, as the ladies mentioned, there are too little of them and they usually show women in a very static way, everything is sort of staged for the sake of selling certain skincare product. With fashion I think some brands sometimes are ‘too extra’, especially when they use eighty/ninetyyear-old models and that’s about it with the age-inclusivity. I think there is a huge gap between they way women are in their fifties/sixties and nineties. For me it doesn’t make sense. 5454: Oh yeah that’s a good point. As I said it’s nice to look at them but you don’t see yourself. I mean… I wouldn’t want to be grouped with someone in their eighties or nineties. But I guess that’s how marketing works now. 2525: From my perspective, I don’t usually pay attention at those ads. And it’s because they’re all probably the same, I don’t see much change done. GR: How important do you think are accurate and realistic representations of women past 50 in the media? 5858: I think representing women OF ALL AGES would be a very favourable thing. It is nice to see both, younger and older women out there. I think there is a lot we can learn from each other and I think it’s about spreading positivity to all age groups. 2727: It should be a priority for fashion and beauty brands to represent real women. And I think seeing older women is especially important as there is not much age diversity nowadays, which is just disappointing. I think generally older women can be really inspiring and you sort of know what to expect from later life and who you aspire to be and so you worry less about ageing itself’’ 2525: I think it’s important to realistically represent all women. It would be empowering to everyone. 5656: I think it’s very important. And I think it’s always more eye-catchy when you see something different from the rest, cause I don’t see many brands doing that. 6161: I think it’s about showing more positivity and not that kind of that is fake. 3030: I’d say it is important. I think for us because we want to see something relatable whether now or in the future but I think it’s more important for brands to kind of stay authentic I guess. GR: Okay so now I will show you a few images, and I want to hear your honest opinions. Is that okay? Everyone: [sounds of agreement]. GR: So here’s the first one. What comes to your mind seeing this Dior ad campaign?

fig.9 2727: Oh no… This is so bad. Cara Delevingne she’s like 26, isn’t she? She cannot be promoting products for ageing! 5858: This is absolutely ridiculous! I mean… Not only that she doesn’t need any skin treatments, and I don’t want to generalise but, thinking of my daughter, I’m sure girls her age couldn’t probably even afford it!

5656: Exactly! This is so frustrating… Cause obviously these products are probably more demanded by older women and I think I wouldn’t even pay attention to this ad. Do you know what I mean? I see a young face, so I presume the cream is not for me, but then it is?? 2525: No way Dior did this! What a shame… I bet this ad was criticized a lot. I mean this is a legit age and skin shaming. It’s just not fair. Do they expect younger women to use anti-ageing products in their 20s? It’s just demoralising… 6161: Oh dear… There’s nothing to look at. The girl is beautiful already, why would she need that cream or serum or whatever… I don’t understand this at all. 3030: It is a very bad example indeed. I think by this ad Dior means that we should prevent our skin from any ageing signs already in our twenties/thirties. It just shows that obsession with youthfulness and I think it’s not fair in any sense and to any of us regardless of our age. GR: Ladies, so would you be interested to try the product? 5858: No, I think the ad makes it sort of… I don’t know… Off-putting? 5656: Yeah… As I said I wouldn’t probably even pay attention seeing something like this. 6161: No, it’s expensive and probably wouldn’t work anyway [laughs]. GR: Girls, as you’re seeing such a young face, would you want to try the product yourself? 3030: I don’t think so… I don’t feel the need to ‘capture youth’. 2727: No, definitely not. 2525: No… GR: Okay, now looking at this one from L’Oreal, any thoughts?

fig.10 5858: This one is okay, it’s understandable compared to the previous one. 5656: Yeah it’s way better but it’s what we are used to see. 3030: Well yeah compared to previous one, it’s more reasonable but it looks just like the rest of those mainstream ads for ‘mature skin’. 2525: Yeah I agree, it’s nice but doesn’t really differ from the rest of these type of ads. 6161: I like it, because I like Helen Mirren and I think L’Oreal products are quite good 2525: Yeah, this one is okay, looks like something my mom would buy. GR: Okay, moving on, here’s another one from Dove. How does it make you feel? 5656: Oh wow… I know Dove is really good at showing real women but I haven’t seen this one before… I really like it. Finally, full figure, unretouched and so realistic… 5858: Oh yeah… I love the fact that it’s not been photoshopped 3030: I think it’s very powerful and bold. It could be shocking but in a good way. It doesn’t make me feel uncomfortable. It feels like someone is finally breaking the rules. 2727: I think it really embraces ageing. And in a positive way, the lady looks confident. 2525: Yeah, I definitely agree. 6161: I love it. You can finally recognize yourself in a way...

fig.11

GR: Finally, looking at this picture, what comes to your mind?

fig.12 3030: This one is powerful too. It’s like all women coming together and showing beauty without any… age bias? I think that’s how it should be. 5858: Oh, I really like this one, also looks unretouched and very natural. 2727: Yeah, I think it’s promoting diversity in every way and it’s really positive. 6161: I like the fact that they’re showing younger and older women in the same sort of position, like there are no exclusions in being yourself and being beautiful. 5656: Yeah, this one is… as someone said, powerful… And that power comes through unity of women who are different. When you look at it you don’t even think about the age difference, it’s just so… natural...? 2525: I think that’s how real inclusivity looks like. GR: So, after looking at four different images, which one do you find the most controversial and which of those you would like to see more from brands? 2727: I think the first one is the most controversial. It’s just wrong in every possible way. I would definitely like to see more of the last one. 6161: I think the first one was the worst. And I think I would like to see more of the third and fourth one. I think they were the most positive. 3030: The most controversial...? Obviously the first one. Some people would probably say it could be the third one as well cause it’s just unusual to see older women in that kind of way, maybe it would make them feel uncomfortable or so… But I think that’s exactly the one that’s the most real and it’s a really positive thing in my opinion. I also think there should be more like the last one if we’re talking about greater inclusivity. I think it should be the norm in that case. 2525: Yeah, the first one is the most awkward, I think. The second one is just plain. Third one is the best for more body positivity for older women and the last one is just positive for all of us. That’s how I see it. 5858: Yeah, I would definitely agree. The first one is what I would like to see the least. I think it’s just nothing but creates a fear of ageing to younger women… It’s just not right. Third one is where we could probably recognize ourselves and it kind of leaves no unrealistic expectations what woman should look like and definitely draws our attention in a really positive way. The last one is just super positive and that connection with younger and older women is… I don’t know… empowering, I guess. GR: So overall, do you think that brands have a responsibility to empower women? 3030: They’re probably not obliged to do so but I think they should if they want to keep us interested. 2727: I think they do. And when it comes to ageing, I think they definitely have that power to kind of visually show positivity to all women. And from my perspective, now, I don’t think too much about the future but… it could still probably kind of diminish those anxieties about getting older just by showing that nothing really changes once you’re past certain age. 6161: It is true! Cause nothing does [laughs]. Well at least not in our heads, I think. So yeah brands could definitely make us feel more visible without stereotyping and by that to kind of show that there is nothing bad about getting older, you can still have fun and look beautiful even with few wrinkles. 5858: Yeah, I definitely agree. I think it’s really important to show a positive message to older women and to younger girls as well. 2525: Yeah, that’s why I like seeing older women in the media. I think for them it’s empowering and for us it’s inspiring.

5656: I just think that brands should do it more. They are definitely empowering younger girls but with us it’s… I don’t know… Of course, if you’re confident with yourself you don’t care… But if a brand visually portrays empowering message in their marketing, I think we would feel noticed and also more interested in that brand and their products, if that makes sense… Just like those ads you showed us from Dove and the last one… GR: So, do you generally think that the whole Female Empowerment movement is not age-inclusive? 2727: I think it’s more aimed at women our age, younger women. 3030: Well I haven’t really paid attention but I think it’s probably less concerned with older women. 5858: I think it’s not age-inclusive. Especially if we’re talking about the body positivity. I know it there but it’s probably promoted to younger girls by younger girls and I don’t really see women my age like that, well expect those celebrities maybe. 5656: You see, I think that since women our age are not that recognized by brands, at least not very positively, and everything is about youth so maybe there is not as much Female Empowerment aimed towards us. Maybe that’s why ageism still exist, especially in fashion and beauty industries. 2525: I think Female Empowerment is more about younger women’s problems so yeah you could probably say that it’s kind of ageist. 6161: I’m not too bothered about it to be honest… But since women our age are mostly seen promoting pharmaceuticals there’s nothing empowering about it is it? [laughs] It just means that we’re still stereotyped, as if past certain age we’re just constantly ill and helpless. 5656: Oh, that is so true… 2727: Yeah, I think that’s how we usually see women past 50. Either anti-ageing cream ads in the magazines or promoting medicaments on TV. 3030: That’s why it’s kind of hard to comment on the whole Female Empowerment thing and older women, I think it doesn’t really relate at the moment. 5858: Maybe it will in the future though, as you’re the generation that is now all about… 2525: Yeah but I feel like they should be recognizing this problem right now. We’re all getting there sooner or later anyway… GR: Okay… Is there anything else you would like to add to the topic? 6161: I think what we don’t realise, is how much we are brainwashed by the media. 5656: We are, aren’t we? All of us. I think older people sort of can recognize that, whereas younger people don’t. I think fashion and beauty brands could definitely do more. And there’s lots of amazing women our age that they could really focus on from all different backgrounds… 3030: I think focusing on women without age bias is what truly matters, especially in the industries that have such a strong visual power to make a change in our society. Everyone: [nodding]. 5858: Yeah, I definitely agree on that. It’s probably slowly changing but age is still sort of stigmatised, I guess. I think we still need more positivity. Women our age… I think we’re confident about ourselves, we can say that the way we’re ageing is different from the way our parents did, and I think we’re just more open-minded anyway. And when it comes to fashion and beauty we still want to be seen and heard, just like you girls. But that doesn’t really make a real change, does it? I think younger people have more power to fight that ageism than we do. GR: That’s interesting. How do you believe this could be done? 6161: It will definitely take time but I think fashion and beauty brands could just show all women coming together and just translating a positive message. Everyone: [sounds of agreement]. GR: Great, thank you all for joining and contributing to my research.

ONE-TO-ONE INTERVIEWS Customer 0001 in John Lewis beauty department: GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0001: Yes, sure. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0001: Yeah that’s fine, I’m 55 actually. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0001: I just want to get a bright lipstick that would go with a dress I just bought. GR: That’s nice! Do you buy beauty products often? 0001: Actually I don’t use make-up that much. I don’t feel like I need to cover something cause I’m comfortable with the way I look. And I’m not afraid of my wrinkles either. GR: What is your opinion on anti-ageing products? 0001: They just don’t work. I think it’s a wrong label as if ageing skin is a bad thing. I think it’s natural. Of course I like to use some moisturising creams and serums just to keep my skin looking healthy but I just don’t believe in preventing wrinkles. GR: So do you think that beauty brands fail to communicate to women you age? 0001: Um… Probably yeah. Some are trying to do it right but the message is usually still the same – that we have to look younger. GR: If you could change something in beauty brands what would it be? 0001: I think they should be more, age-inclusive, as you said. I just noticed that majority of the make-up products are represented by way younger girls… You know, even when it comes to more expensive makeup. I just wonder if they can even afford it? I think women my age would be more likely to buy those products. GR: Yes, I see. Thank you for your time! 0001: Hope I helped. Good luck!

Customer 0002 in John Lewis clothing department GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0002: Oh that sounds interesting! Sure. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0002: I’m 59.

GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0002: Nothing in particular actually, just wandering around. GR: Okay. What do you usually look for in fashion brands? 0002: Style and quality. GR: Has your style changed or developed over the years? 0002: I think it’s way easier now and I personally feel more liberated. If I see something that I like, I just buy it out of emotion… I feel more stylish now than when I was younger in general. GR: Do you find it easy to find clothes for yourself? 0002. Um… I think it depends… Usually I just go for whatever I like without much thinking if it’s okay to wear something like that my age. Do you know what I mean? But it’s confusing when it looks like most of the clothes are meant for younger women. I like to shop online too but then you don’t really know how certain things going to fit on you cause the models are usually young and skinny. At least how I see it. GR: Do you think fashion brands fail to communicate to women your age? 0002: Do they even? I think we’re just expected to sort out it all ourselves. I mean, I think I’m doing fine but as I said most of the fashion is aimed at young girls. They probably assume as we get older, we don’t want look fashionable. Also what I’ve noticed is that even when brands have a consumer of our age in mind, they usually show someone grey-haired presuming we all look the same but lots of women I know, including myself, still dye their hair and it’s not because we want to look younger, it’s a matter of choice. GR: If you could change something in fashion brands, what would it be? 0002: I think they should show more women past 50 in their ads. I think it’s important to show that fashion is for everyone. GR: That’s all, thank you for your time.

Customer 0003 in Zara GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0003: Yeah of course. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0003: Yeah, I’m 57. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0003: Actually, I just came here for the sale. GR: Okay. What do you usually look for in fashion brands? 0003: Quality. And stylish clothes of course.

GR: Has your style changed or developed over the years? 0003: Well I think I dress nicer than I used to before. But maybe we all would say the same thing as trends keep changing. Something we used to wear may seem funny now. Anyway, I always loved fashion and I think most people would say that I dress younger than I’m supposed to. I’m not afraid of wearing ripped jeans or a biker jacket or... Something like that. I Just don’t care, I stay loyal to myself cause I kinda like experimenting with style. One day I can look like a fancy lady, the other I could dress as my daughter does. But it’s not cause I want to stay younger, I just like it and I think my age has nothing to do with my style and identity. GR: Do you find it easy to find clothes for yourself? 0003. Whatever I like and if it fits me I just go for it. I like to shop everywhere and try out new brands. GR: Do you think fashion brands fail to communicate to women your age? 0003: Hmm… That’s a tricky question. Maybe they just don’t even bother… What I don’t like is that they show either very young women or way older grey haired models. So it kinda feels that you’re either gorgeous young lady or a grandma and there’s no in-between. GR: If you could change something in fashion brands, what would it be? 0003: Definitely more diverse models. And when it comes to age, not the ones that are like 80 or 90, that’s good but a bit too extra. I think it’s quite a big problem that women past their middle-age are not really visible in the fashion world. Or if they are, I think, it’s in a kind of very ‘niche’ way. GR: That’s all, thank you for your time. Customer 0004 in Marks and Spencer GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0004: Yes, yes, darling, go for it. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0004: I’m 62. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0004: I’m looking for a nice shirt to go with a skirt I have. GR: Okay! What do you usually look for in fashion brands? 0004: Definitely quality and good price. GR: Has your style changed or developed over the years? 0004: I think my style is rather classic and kind of modern I suppose…. I’ve always used to wear minimalistic clothes. As they say ‘less is more’. But it’s just my own preference. GR: Do you find it easy to find clothes for yourself? 0004. It’s alright if you’re looking at the right places. I think when you have certain brands you like you know where to look for clothes that you need. I like to shop online though too. And even if I like classic styles I’m always open to try new things, like interesting accessories.

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GR: Do you think fashion brands fail to communicate to women your age? 0004: Depends what brands probably… I know most of them are all about young people. I’m 62 and from fashion’s perspective I should probably be boring and so long past it. But I still care the way I look, the way I dress. I think fashion has just forgotten about women my age [laughs]. Or just presumes that we don’t belong here anymore. GR: If you could change something in fashion brands, what would it be? 0004: Well as I said, I think they should be more aware about women my age… You don’t even see as many older women in fashion as young… Why not to show us together? We are and we can all be beautiful and stylish. GR: That’s all, thank you for your time. Customer 0005 in Boots: GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0005: Yeah I don’t mind. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0005: Yeah I’m 56. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0005: I’m… I’m looking for a moisturizer. GR: Okay! Do you buy that kind of beauty products often? 0005: Every now and then. I don’t like to use too many products all at once. GR: What is your opinion on anti-ageing products? 0005: I don’t believe in them. I don’t mind having a few wrinkles. I understand that no cream can do a miracle, cause it’s just impossible to fight time. And there’s no need to do so. You don’t need to look younger. I think ageing is beautiful as long as you keep yourself and your skin looking healthy. GR: So do you think that beauty brands fail to communicate to women you age? 0005: Not all of them but perhaps, yeah. Especially if they’re trying to sell the idea of ‘looking younger’. I think women my age don’t need that. I think we would just love a bit more encouragement to embrace our natural looks. GR: If you could change something in beauty brands what would it be? 0005: I would say more positivity and less anti-ageing propaganda, if you can say so… I think beauty brands need to support real women not trying to convince that they won’t be beautiful, if they won’t use certain cream. GR: Great. Thank you for your time!

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Customer 0006 in Debenhams cosmetics department GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0006: Yeah, that’s fine. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0006: I’m 65. GR: Great. So… What are you shopping for today? 0006: I’m looking for a facial serum. GR: Okay! Do you buy beauty products often? 0006: Once in a while, when I decide I need something new. GR: What is your opinion on anti-ageing products? 0006: I just hate the word anti-ageing. The products I use are to kind of keep my skin healthy not younger, it’s impossible anyway is it. I think no cream could make you look younger, especially in my age. GR: So as you said you hate the word anti-ageing, do you think that beauty brands fail to communicate to women you age? 0006: I know there’s a big encouragement for women my age to look as young as possible but I think that’s not what we need. Some probably do it right, some don’t. GR: If you could change something in beauty brands what would it be? 0006: Well with skincare brands there should probably be more positivity about ageing. With make-up… I don’t know… I wish they would be showing more older women wearing make-up cause at the moment when I look around, it seems that the make-up is basically for young girls. But we want to look ‘cool’ too if that makes sense. GR: Yes, thank you, and thank you for your time! Customer 07 in H&M GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0007: Yeah, go for it. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0007: I don’t mind my age, I’m 58. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0007: Whatever catches my eye. GR: Okay. What do you usually look for in fashion brands?

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GR: Okay. What do you usually look for in fashion brands? 0007: I think quality is a priority but it also has to be stylish. GR: Has your personal style changed or developed over the years? 0007: I’m not sure. I just wear whatever I like. But what I find annoying is that most of the articles I read in the magazines or internet about fashion always say that women our age should already have defined their style and they don’t need to change anything. But what if I want to? I really like experimenting and trying new outfits new brands. GR: So do you find it easy to find clothes for yourself? 0007. Well I think it depends… Can be frustrating though, cause sometimes those stylish clothes are made for younger women and once you reach a certain age your body is changing, even though your mindset doesn’t. GR: Do you think fashion brands fail to communicate to women your age? 0007: I don’t think they even do. Maybe those boring and niche ones, which are usually hard to even find. And I don’t want to be kind of encouraged to buy certain type of products or shop with certain type of brands cause they presume I’m ‘’old’’. GR: If you could change something in fashion brands, what would it be? 0007: They could probably show more individuality and just be more inclusive. I think it’s important to show that we can wear the same clothes our daughter do and still look fabulous. GR: That’s all then, thank you for your time. 0007: You’re welcome. Customer 0008 in Zara GR: Hi, I’m a final year student at Nottingham Trent University currently working on my project on age-inclusive marketing focusing on women over 50. Would you mind if I ask you a few questions? 0008: Yes sure, I don’t mind. GR: First of all, since this project is about age-inclusivity, are you comfortable with revealing your age to me? 0008: That’s alright, I’m 59. GR: Great. So… what are you shopping for today? 0008: Just came to check the sale. GR: Okay. What do you usually look for in fashion brands? 0008: I would say functionality and comfort. And, of course, the clothes have to be stylish. GR: Has your personal style changed or developed over the years? 0008: I never had a particular style that I would follow and now I think it’s more to do with what fits me and flatters my figure.

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GR: So do you find it easy to find clothes for yourself? 0008. Not always. The thing is… I just want to look stylish but I feel like at this point it’s just exhausting to desperately browse the shops trying to find pieces that would look good on me since I really don’t have time for it. So, I try to shop online but everything is usually displayed on younger models and there is always a problem with the sizing and fit and how to properly style them. Even if I’m interested in the same styles, I wouldn’t wear those clothes the way 20-year-olds do. GR: Do you think fashion brands fail to communicate to women your age? 0008: I don’t really pay attention and that’s probably cause they aren’t doing much, are they? All we see is young girls promoting fashion products and maybe that’s because they think we all want to look like that girl from advertisement. The idea of looking young is what people probably buy into but in reality, especially if you’re 50 something, I think you just want to see something you can relate to. GR: If you could change something in fashion brands, what would it be? 0008: I think it’s about being more realistic and actually paying attention to your customers and realizing that there is a difference between someone in their twenties and someone in their fifties. GR: That’s all then, thank you for your time.

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