TREND MAP
I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.
Signed ......................... Date .........................
N0750762 Gabriele Rybalko Word count: 2753
4
CONTENTS Introduction Methodology What is a trend? Fashion cycle Trend forecastig Influences of trends Impacts of trends SS18 trend History of the trend Trend Drivers Shop safari Styling shoot Inspirational moodboard Fashion editorial Conclusion List of illustrations References Bibliography Appendix
6 7 8 10 12 14 18 22 24 26 32 34 36 38 44 46 56 57 58
5
INTRODUCTION
I
t is true that the fashion trend issue has not always been as complicated as it is today. Until the popularity of the media and the emergence of the Internet, trends used to develop and change considerably more slowly - they were determined by important cultural events, general political mood. The contemporary society, spoiled by a huge amount of information, can simultaneously observe the news of a multitude of different cultures while participating in global phenomena. This means that every fashion user becomes a very individual, selective and wants constant change, therefore the trend circle gets a momentum. This report was written to examine the life of trends and to identify one of the most significant styles of Spring/Summer 2018 and its position within the fashion industry, both high-end and high-street.
6
METHODOLOGY
T
he report was compiled using both primary and secondary research. Primary research was conducted in Nottingham to gain an insight into todays’ current fashion trends. The research included Nottingham’s High street style observations and interviews with stores’ staff as well as a questionnaire for millennial individuals. Secondary research was collected using tangible books, websites, magazines, blogs, articles and databases, e.g. WGSN, while observing an emerging trend for Spring/Summer 2018 and the key influences that impacted it to occur.
7
WHAT IS A TREND?
8
A
trend is not exclusively associated with the world of fashion, it can be emotional, intellectual and spiritual. Generally, trends refer to a direction or a movement in which something is developing or changing. Trends are all around us and have become a crucial part of the consumer world. They are not just related to the latest fashions but also to bigger influences, society movements and global phenomena. Trends can be classified by duration and penetration; short time trends are called fads and the longest trends become classics. Temporary trends often appear on the streets or social networks and do not have a big impacts on the fashion industry. It’s much more difficult to talk about the prediction for the next few years because it is not only determined by the society’s moods or political situation. It is also about the speed of technological inventions, as the fabrics, cuts and manufacturing process continually improves. Undoubtedly, there are well-known eternal tendencies that revive every single season because their emotional load and strong symbolism are necessary to convey a particular idea. A good example of this is the silhouette of the 1960s - the bold carcass created by Christian Dior, which the world’s fashion media has turned into an eternal benchmark for femininity and a symbol of French elegance. In 1937 British art critic James Laver created a system that reveals peoples’ attitude towards the life of a trend. According to him, trends renew every 50 years. Although the slots between the emergence, death and revival of one trend have become shorter, the basic principles that show how we value trends are also relevant today.
9
FASHION CYCLE
10
N
o other world is changing as fast as the rotating fashion carousel. What may seem tacky today, tomorrow may hit the runways. Fashion is in a continuous motion. New styles are introduced in the market, gain popularity by being accepted by more and more consumers, reach the stages of maturity, and go out of fashion acceptance. This process, called a fashion cycle, helps forecasters and retailers anticipate the acceptance and duration of fashion trends (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011). A fashion cycle is the term used to describe the process that a type of fashion goes through. The fashion first gains mass acceptance and popularity from the consumers and then with time, the tastes and preferences of the consumers’ ebbs, which causes the fashion to lose that acceptance and popularity. The fashion cycle includes four major stages: introduction, growth, maturity, and decline (Easey, 1995).
First of all, most new styles are introduced in the high level, designers adapt new trends while creating limited quantity of products at a high cost, which are worn by celebrities and influencers. At the second stage, when the new styles are seen sported by famous people, attention of a general public is attracted. Consequently, some brands start offering similar products at lower prices. When the trend reaches a peak of popularity it may be in such demand that more manufacturers copy it or produce adaptations of it at many price levels. After so many designs copies are mass produced, consumers get tired of that style and begin to look for something new. Finally, the rejection phase occurs whilst consumers turn to the new emerging trends. All products, including fashion products, have an infinite life cycle. New styles are introduced in the market, last for a certain period of time, decline and finally disappear. Although the rate and duration of use vary, the diffusion of a specific fashion tends to follow a predictable cycle, called a fashion cycle (Easey, 1995).
11
TREND FORECASTING
12
F
ashion is often associated with store shelves and massively worn silhouettes. But, in fact, ideas are born much earlier, and trend forecasting is a much deeper process, which is influenced by the most relevant social phenomena. Talented and discerning creators observe the world and analyse it. That is how the mood-boards are born. Later they are purified to silhouettes, colours, their combinations and finally appear on the catwalks presented during fashion shows. Fashion trend forecasting resources help predict trends in the fashion industry. Fashion & trend forecasting is the prediction of mood, behaviour and buying habits of the consumer at particular time and season. To cope with the ever-changing technologies, the markets and consumer are rapidly evolving from traditional, static, demographic-based criteria to more toward dynamic, modern, mood, lifestyle and psychographic influences.
‘‘Fashion forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons. It involves a systematic procedure , including information, gathering, market and consumer research, and analysis’’ (Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011).
13
INFLUENCES OF TRENDS
14
POLITICS
P
olitical culture plays a critical role in fashion industry. Political change is a reflection of today’s fashion. Most of the political events and laws are affecting fashion in a way of creating fashion trend. Considering the relationship between fashion and politics, it is possible to notice how fashion is not only a matter of aesthetic. Within political references, we can see how fashion can make a change. Fashion is a reflection of current or historical events therefore it associates with today and past‘s politics. A great example is the terrorist attacks that took place in the United States on September 11, 2001. It was one of the most tragic political events of the society. This catastrophic event caused horrific consequences which related to political influence. Naturally, trends were also revolutionized as fashion has taken over the mood of the society. In the collections of the following season designers unintentionally used military themed details, armours resembling silhouettes. It is hard to say that 9/11 attacks made a direct influence on fashion industry as it should not be considered as inspiration for fashion designer to forecast the trend. However, after 9/11, fashion designers decided to embrace this challenge and tried to convey the significant loss and depression into a form of fashion trend. Because of this, a trend can be considered as a form of communication.
15
Fashion editorial for American Vogue November, 2001
Not only political events make a huge impact on fashion trends. They are also driven by the political figure, who might play a critical role in forecasting the fashion trend. Looking back into 1960s, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy was a fashionable icon, who led a formal dressing trend. By wearing a Chanel suit, a structural Givenchy shift dress or a soft colour Cassini coat with huge buttons, it created her elegant look and led a delicate trend (Kingdom, 2017). Such a significant look continue influencing designers till nowadays. As an example, Moschino Fall/Winter 2018/2019 collection was inspired by the iconic look of Jacqueline Kennedy. Jeremy Scott, the creative mind behind the brand, came up with his own concept but outfits reflected a classic style of 1960s icon.
Fashion trends can ‘‘originate in a particular social group, trickling up from the streets or trickling down from top designers, or move across all social groups simultaneously’’ (Kim, Fiore & Kim, 2011: 35). In order to understand a fashion trend, it is important to be aware our social-cultural surroundings.
SOCIAL MEDIA
I
t is not a secret that generation Z seeks for inspiration on the internet. According to this, social media has made fashion and style even more accessible in recent years, with millions of photos and videos being shared throughout all the most popular platforms every day. Consequently, this is undoubtedly driving how consumers shop and what they are wearing. Fashion bloggers have become a key part of informing consumers of the latest styles as well as promoting brands. Instagram is one of the most popular social media platforms providing instant visual content sharing and this way contributing to fast trend spread. Influential consumers such as bloggers are creating trends on Instagram with only a one post share showing off a new product. ‘‘Bloggers and tweeters are becoming even more important as they provide consumers with an inside look into latest trends and styles’’ (Nicholis, 2010). Lifestyle and trends are strongly influenced by social-cultural changes, such as modernization, technological innovation and artistic movements. It is essential to highlight that trends are made by people, who on different levels get involved with different artistic environments. As shown above, well-known Italian blogger and influencer Chiara Ferragni is wearing Dior statement t-shirt, that says ‘‘We all should be feminists’’, this way showing her support to the feminist movement. After images of her and other influential individuals appeared on social media, shirts with political and feminist slogans have instantly been sold by high-street retailers. 16
PRINT MEDIA
A
dvertising and all forms of print media has always had a huge influence on fashion trends. However, it is widely known that print media is facing an uphill struggle due to an increasing competition with internet and digital platforms. Although magazines are not as fast paced as the internet, they are still one of the key sources of inspiration to forecasters, designers and consumers. Print publications portray current styles through a wider and deeper analysis while offering high-street alternatives to the catwalk trends. Print media was always an irreplaceable tool for fashion to communicate newest ideas in a fairly sophisticated way. Therefore, magazines still play an indispensable role in creating the mystique that sustains the fashion process (Hepworth, 2014).
17
IMPACTS OF TRENDS
18
GLOBALISATION
A
s fashion images in magazines, music videos, films, the Internet and television speed their way around the world, they create a “global style” (Rabine, n.d.) across all borders and cultures. This “global style” is a phenomenon that has only steadily increased as years have gone by and has vastly impacted consumers and the retail industry. Fashion is constantly moving, changing, and being reinvented and reinterpreted by designers from all over the world. According to this, there is a greater demand from consumers to gain access to the newest trends and styles in the fashion world, and with growth of globalization this has become possible. Globalization distributes the institutional features of modernity across all cultures (Tomlinson, 2003, p. 273) and has created an open market and free trade amongst countries to make fashion more readily available between one another. The global apparel market is a consumer driven industry. High-street brands collaborate with well-known global designers this way giving the idea for the retail industry to capitalize on globalization in fashion and appeal to the mass market, which cater to consumers of every age, gender, ethnicity, profession, and subculture.
19
20
FAST FASHION ’’Fast fashion is a business strategy which aims to reduce the processes involved in the buying cycle and lead times for getting new fashion product into stores, in order to satisfy consumer demand at its peak. The changing demands of fashion consumers, the need for quick reaction to emerging trends and the move away from planned forecasts has resulted in shift in the apparel buying cycle’’ (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood, 2006). Due to this, fashion retail is moving away from the planned seasonal product creating smaller collections more frequently. Fast fashion uses innovative production and distribution models to shorten fashion cycles, sometimes getting a garment from the designer to the customer in a matter of weeks instead of months. ’’The number of fashion seasons has increased from two a year – Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter – to as many as 50-100 micro-seasons’’ (Drew and Yehounme, 2017). As the world has moved into the twenty-first century, retailers like H&M and Zara have shifted the focus from competition of pricing towards fast response to changing fashion trends and consumer demand. However, a quick change of trends in fashion retail is creating an extreme demand for quick and cheap clothing which is a huge problem that continues to impact the environment causing a very serious harm to the planet. Fast fashion, being a considerably young business, is the second dirtiest industry in the world creating a demand for and then churning out massive amounts of cheap clothing, ultimately accelerating carbon emissions and global warming (Sweeny, 2015).
21
SPRING/SUMMER 2018
22
L
ooking at the evolution of fashion history, it is clear that nowadays trends are very democratic. The most fashionable season lengths - mini, midi, maxi; silhouettes - trapezium, rectangular, triangular, sand clock; on the colour palette all possible colours are blinking. Shoes, bags, accessories – everything is diverse. This brings out the question - what is trendy? One of the most significant trends for Spring/Summer 2018 that was spotted on the catwalks during recent fashion weeks is transparency. Translucent fabrics are setting the tone for a myriad of designer, sport and high street collections. From transparent, techy windbreakers to see-through couture fabrics, this new trend is hitting summer runways and retail. ‘‘Gauzy and net-like fabrics emerge via a multitude of innovative weaves and material layering, bonding or panelling. Clear resin-based materials are key for upto-date trims and components for fashion and accessory collections’’ (WGSN, 2018). This trend means that opacity is no longer a necessity for clothing. Underwear was once a thing to be disguised, but now designers have them visible under sheer garments on numerous catwalks or even none at all, ultimately embracing the female body. From Christian Dior’s mid length sheer dress in the middle which displayed a bold one piece undergarment to Christopher Kane, who transformed sheer lace nighties into evening wear, it seems that the transparency trend is incredibly diverse and can be incorporated into any garment.
23
HISTORY OF
50s
70s
Famous American avant-garde fashion designer Rudi Gernreich introduced pubikini (a swimsuit that reveals pubic hair) and monokini (onepiece swimsuit that reveals breasts).
Hippie movement inspired garments of mesh and lace combination.
60s Spanish fashion designer Paco Rabanne created a line of chain and disc dresses.
24
THE TREND
90s The last decade of 20th century brought famous Calvin Klein campaigns featured by Kate Moss sporting faux transparency.
80s
PRESENT
Models on the catwalks appeared in see-through sweatshirts and pullovers.
Transparency became a worldwide fashion trend from high end to high street.
25
TREND DRIVERS
26
SOCIAL MOVEMENTS
F
ashion has always been an instrumental in both reflecting and facilitating social change throughout the history. Therefore, social movements usually have the biggest impact on fashion. Transparency trend could have been inspired by the ‘’Free the Nipple’’ campaign that was launched in the United States in 2012 has a much deeper idea - raising the issue of gender inequality and trying to perceive why, even in a liberal society, the body of a woman is still considered a shame, sinful or simply an avoidable topic. The project (alongside so called documentary film) began with the insight that many US states strictly prohibit the display of uncovered woman’s chest (in particular, nipples) in public, and even in those states where the law does not restrict these freedoms, police officers often take an action on allegedly violated public order. The campaign for equality for the sexes states: “Free the Nipple is a global campaign of change, focused on the equality, empowerment and freedom of all human beings.” As a consequence of the popularity the movement has reached, fashion industry responded immediately becoming a very important tool to communicate ideas and spread the word even if was just transparent clothes on the runway.
27
Beyonce
Rihanna
Kendall Jenner
Chiara Ferragni
Kim Kardashian
Solange 28
CELEBRITIES
T
rends are highly influenced and shaped by celebrities as they have become more and more authoritative in the world of fashion as with the prevalence of social media it has made them more accessible than ever. People are able to see what celebrities are wearing every day if they want too. The way the characters in movies and television shows are dressed has the power to shape people’s thoughts and perceptions on fashion trends. In a survey that asked 1000 women what most inspires their fashion purchases 48% stated that reading or following celebrities on social media has the strongest impact above all others such as friends or TV purchases (Davies, 2014). The transparent “naked dress” trend has dominated red carpets for several years now, flaunted by physically ‘flawless’ celebrities such as Rihanna, Beyonce, Kendall Jenner. See-through clothing is also being sported by a lot of famous and influential women on the streets such as Italian blogger and businesswoman Chiara Ferragni, American singer Solange, American television personality Kim Kardashian-West. Celebrity culture has a huge impact on transparency trend contributing to its movement from high-end to high-street.
29
CHANEL
DIOR
FENDI
MARC JACOBS 30
BLUMARINE
SIMONE ROCHA
CATWALK
F
rom Paris to Milan, from London to New York - transparency trend hit the Spring/Summer 2018 catwalks like never before with designers incorporating see-through fabrics into their garments. The catwalk witnessed the very chlorophyll palette melts from peppermint
soda to blue lagoon, tinting raw denim jackets and trapeze, asymmetric baby doll dresses from Chanel, elegant and statement sheer pieces from Dior, nipple-freeing textures from Marc Jacobs, 1970s inspired lace and mesh combinations from Simone Rocha. As transparency has been a prominent trend on the catwalks throughout all the fashion weeks, designers presumably caught this inspirations from the influence of trend forecasters. Transparency has always been relevant for clothing but this year fashion creators decided to take it even further, showing off more bare skin. These high-end designers have a significant influence within the fashion industry which leads to the idea that see-through clothing trend has a great possibility of being adapted by the high-street retailers.
31
SHOP SAFARI
32
TED BAKER
ALL SAINTS
TOP SHOP
TOP SHOP
URBAN OUTFITERS
ZARA
P
rimary research of the trend was carried out in Nottingham’s most popular retail stores to find out if the transparency trend is prominent on the high street this season. The majority of the stores observed had at least one transparent item. High street shops such TopShop stocked the majority of transparent garments. The brand is wellknown for its distinctive identity and is one of the leaders in identifying and adopting trends instantly straight from the catwalks as it has continuously been the retailer that sets trends for consumer before competitors.
Since the all of the stores visited had sheer, mesh or plastic pieces of clothing, observations led to the question if the trend is likely to last. Therefore, shop floor assistant at ZARA was interviewed. According to her ‘‘sheer and mesh trend tends to be repetitive. Every store receives this kind of clothing every season. Some people love it, some don’t. Nevertheless, as many young people here in the UK seems to be sporting the trend and like to show off some skin, transparency might go even further in the future’’ (ZARA Nottingham, 2018).
33
STYLING SHOOT
34
A
fter in depth analysis of the trend and high street observation, the styling shoot was inspired by modern femininity. As transparency trend is associated with lightness and nudity, the main idea was to showcase a less shocking, more sensual and sophisticated interpretation of the trend. The model chosen had a unique facial features and an expressive gaze, which reflected a confident but at the same time sensitive and luscious personality. Womanly features were enhanced through make up design, inspired by fresh and natural look that blends well with the light sheer clothing. The key pieces of clothing used were nude and black sheer tops and a bralette alongside black tulle skirt. The combinations of these pieces with other garments allowed to represent the feeling of bold empowered woman. This feeling was captured within the shots of different outfits and poses. The location of the shoot was Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms grade II listed Victorian building. The vintage interior of the building (white spaces, pointed arched arcades, columns and high ceiling) were used to expose the texture of the clothing and contributed well to the idea of the concept.
35
MOOD
36
BOARD
37
EDITORIAL
T
o showcase the styling shoot, an editorial for ELLE magazine was chosen. ELLE is a worldwide lifestyle magazine of French origin that focuses on fashion, beauty, health and entertainment in a unique and sophisticated manner. The publication represents the culture that is desirable but at the same time accessible, which encourages readers to cultivate their personal style as much as the success that comes with personal power. The title, in French, means “she” or “her”, which refers to the idea that ELLE is not just about the dress — but also about the woman in the dress. This was one of thy key aspects that inspired the editorial. The images taken from the styling shoot and the five products that have been chosen is targeted to trend conscious female market.
38
JUNE 2018
39
Sheer confidence
This season’s most major trend is trasnparency. Styled in multiple ways, sheer fabrics are soft and feminine, through which woman expresses her confident sensuality. See-through clothing suggests an idea of etheral freedom and empowerment. Desire and beauty is a key theme, making a woman sophisticated and ‘irrésistible’ creature. 40
Nude sheer top Bershka 14.99£ Black lace bodysuit Primark 8£ Silver platform shoes Zirze boutique - 45£
41
Black sheer and floral lace bralette model’s own Black tulle skirt Zirze boutique 25£
42
Black sheer top New Look 30£ Black tulle skirt Zirze boutique 25£
43
CONCLUSION
44
T
aking everything into consideration, the evidence from above and findings from the primary research shows that trends is an inseparable part of today’s society and fashion as a whole. Fashion has always been a mirror of our daily lives. What we experience, think, and talk about influences how we dress and the work of all great designers. Fashion forecasters also play a huge role in developing trends while analysing current lifestyles as trends are constantly being influenced by social, political or even environmental circumstances. Trends within the fashion industry can be spotted on the catwalk during fashion weeks, later they are driven and communicated globally to consumers by all forms of the media and celebrities until finally being adapted by high-street retailers and becoming accessible to a more wider audience. Together with a development of the fast fashion industry, trend forecasting and manufacturing are on demand as trend lifecycles get shorter due to the consumers shopping behaviours and constant requirement for something new and distinct. When it comes to transparency trend, nowadays fashion world tries to be much more open, controversial and revealing, and all of these features are contained within the trend. Nevertheless, transparency trend can be questionable and even have a deeper meaning as in an era where actual transparency, whether in politics or in the ways people present their lives on social media, is increasingly rare (Munro, 2018). This suggests the idea that fashion, as a form of self-expression, is a tool to broadcast one’s inner desires. This is why transparency continuously moves around fashion, being interpreted in different ways each season. Consequently, see-through clothing seems to be one of those trends that has an ability to adapt in order to meet future fashion styles and consumer needs. As transparency trend is likely to stay, this demonstrates that this kind of apparel might have a longer lifecycle and be re-used, which means less harm for the environment as fashion industry cause a lot of pollution. See-through clothing is a great part of the fashion history as well as the present. Being widely worn amongst people from different backgrounds, this trends has a considerable chance to go even further in the future.
45
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fashion show. (2014). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/474x/c3/b3/f7/ c3b3f7dd5b3ed2889017e496b7e5bf28--runway.jpg [Accessed 10 May 2018].
Fashion show. (2012). [image] Available at: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/9wIn5vVwLeU/maxresdefault.jpg [Accessed 9 May 2018].
Lace dress. (2013). [image] Available at: https://78.media.tumblr.com/dd0f24de6e948cd662de8e6dd510ee89/tumblr_olwgx9GDLJ1w0w5fwo1_1280.jpg [Accessed 10 May 2018].
Fashion photography. (2014). [image] Available at: http://file:///E:/tumblr_ n4p2xqQ5DJ1ts40pwo1_1280.jpg [Accessed 13 May 2018].
Neutral grey fashion. (2014). [image] Available at: http://i.f1g.fr/media/ext/1900x/madame.lefigaro.fr/sites/default/files/img/2014/02/defile-steven-alanpret-a-porter-automne-hiver-2014-2015-photo-15.jpg [Accessed 11 May 2018].
Josbd (n.d.). Fashion cycle. [image] Available at: http://www.josbd.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Fashion-Cycle.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Fashion week. (2014). [image] Available at: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/ images?q=tbn:ANd9GcStqCuLtCMoGWqwwi1bmIt--b5ZHSaXlFzlgqjRn8V3llHjcmST [Accessed 11 May 2018].
46
The process of fashion forecasting. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://rampages.us/ chandlerbing/wp-content/uploads/sites/7351/2015/07/flow-chart_page_12.jpg [Accessed 13 May 2018].
Runway styling. (2013). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8b/23/ fe/8b23fe3fa8845cdf27cdcd7c680d4541.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Vogue US November (2001). Amazing Grace. [image] Available at: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M0pgf6T3kTk/UYL0D7GALNI/AAAAAAAB_JI/OgdooGPf8ZE/s1600/ amazinggrace_bwkk04.JPG [Accessed 17 May 2018].
Daily Express (2018). Jackie Kennedy x Moschino. [image] Available at: https://cdn. images.express.co.uk/img/dynamic/12/590x/Jackie-Kennedy-Moschino-runway-Milan-922466.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Bestchinanews (2018). Chiara Ferragni feminist. [image] Available at: http://i1.go2yd. com/image.php?url=0G87P7ZsKk [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Shift London (2015). Chiara Ferragni Instagram. [image] Available at: https://www. shiftlondon.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Screen-Shot-2015-10-28-at-20.02.21.png [Accessed 13 May 2018].
Vogue (2017). Vogue December 2017 cover. [image] Available at: https://s1.r29static. com//bin/entry/a03/0,0,2000,2400/x/1881617/image.gif [Accessed 16 May 2018].
47
Composure Magazine (2016). Fashion trend. [image] Available at: https:// styleunderpressure.files.wordpress.com/2016/05/composuremag11_13.jpg [Accessed 17 May 2018].
Lafforgue, E. (2014). Mursi tribe woman reading woman. [image] Available at: https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5111/7044368291_9415e757f8_b.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
AFP/GETTY IMAGES (2013). Globalization Collection and Chanel Globe. [image] Available at: http://theglobalfool.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ ChanelGlobe2.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Fast fashion. (2017). [image] Available at: https://i1.wp.com/equaljusticeproject.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/rts4lha-e1506007516519.jpg?fit=1184%2C644 [Accessed 17 May 2018].
Indonesia Expat (2018). Fast Fashion. [image] Available at: http://indonesiaexpat.biz/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/opinions.fastfashion.wikimediacommons.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2018].
Transparent tote bag. (2018). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d8/d2/97/d8d297940b8ee10e2c30ee7b95f3d01f.jpg [Accessed 17 May 2018].
Rudi Gernreich bikini. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://data:image/ jpeg;base64,/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/ [Accessed 18 May 2018].
48
60s dress. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://78.media.tumblr. com/6a8125031278324d0068c77387da11f8/tumblr_n0n77hlM5n1s4xucdo4_1280.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
70s design. (2012). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/1d/d7/ c0/1dd7c09cbb7eba711218e9122a72bdd1.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
80s styling. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d7/7d/5a/ d77d5ad9bfe0d4c83b28478ce3a41a53.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Kate Moss x Calvin Klein. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://5b0988e595225.cdn. sohucs.com/images/20171122/46da35d0a5d4451f954fc758c4685f26.jpeg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Sheer dress. (2018). [image] Available at: https://thestylebanks.files.wordpress. com/2015/04/a2x1053.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Free the nipple. (2017). [image] Available at: http://www.spintosguru.lt/ wp-content/uploads/2017/10/sl-1.jpg [Accessed 19 May 2018].
Rihanna nude dress. (2014). [image] Available at: http://i1.wp.com/image. luxurycheckout.com/blog/2014/06/Rihanna-in-Adam-Selman-2014-CFDAFashion-Awards-e1401756470307.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2018].
49
Splash (2015). Beyonce. [image] Available at: https://i2-prod.mirror.co.uk/incoming/article5637735.ece/ALTERNATES/s615b/Beyonce.jpg [Accessed 15 May 2018].
Kendall Jenner. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/ fashion/2017/05/02/TELEMMGLPICT000127494598_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqK_vgMZMtToVksLIt2InIPf2y-wlPAGAdEo1iKHmOwyU.jpeg [Accessed 20 May 2018].
Chiara Ferragni street style. (2015). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ f4/18/45/f418454fd57ecd8d640846bbe507262a.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Solange street style. (2017). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6e/82/6f/6e826fc7924147f743e60cb15248c01e.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Kim Kardashian-West street style. (2017). [image] Available at: http://i.perezhilton.com/ wp-content/uploads/2016/10/kim-kardashian-sunday-before-robbery__oPt.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Chanel S/S 2018. (2018). [image] Available at: http://talesofjude.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/CHA0411.jpg [Accessed 21 May 2018].
50
Fendi S/S 2018. (2018). [image] Available at: http://www3.pictures.livingly.com/it/ Fendi+Spring+2018+-TtgEM58OyVl.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Blumarine S/S 2018. (2018). [image] Available at: http://www4.pictures.livingly.com/it/ Blumarine+Spring+2018+WfQQeUnabwGl.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Dior S/S 2018. (2018). [image] Available at: https://fashionista.com/.image/t_share/ MTQxODg1OTc2ODM3MzY3NDky/dior20rs17201577jpg.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Vogue (2018). Marc Jacobs S/S 2018. [image] Available at: https://vg-images.condecdn. net/image/VvGqGB71Kn1/crop/405/portrait/f/_JAC0107.jpg [Accessed 16 May 2018].
Simone Rocha S/S 2018. (2018). [image] Available at: https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress. com/2017/09/simone-rocha-rtw-spring-summer-2018-london-fashion-week-157.jpg?w=207&h=315&crop=1 [Accessed 16 May 2018].
See-through bag. (2015). [image] Available at: https://cdn-img-0.wanelo.com/p/828/c96/ e2e/0c4b5a690e2cf10e6c0b306/full_size.jpg [Accessed 21 May 2018].
Saleh, S. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, Ted Baker, Shop Safari. [13th March 2018].
51
Saleh, S. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, All Saints, Shop Safari. [13th March 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, TopShop, Shop Safari. [20th April 2018].
Saleh, S. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, TopShop, Shop Safari. [13th March 2018].
Saleh, S. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, Urban Outfiters, Shop Safari. [13th March 2018].
Saleh, S. (2018). [image] Nottingham city centre, Zara, Shop Safari. [13th March 2018].
Valentino dress. (2010). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/cc/00/49/ cc00495f46c719fe5c10653155a72ffc--black-gowns-tight-black-dresses.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Sorrenti, M. (1995). Vogue editorial. [image] Available at: https://static1.squarespace.com/ static/55f45174e4b0fb5d95b07f39/55f45539e4b09d46d484768a/55f45567e4b09d46d485b4ae/1390397699667/1000w/mario-sorrenti-irresistibles-vogue-paris-feb-14-013.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018]. 52
Thompson, B. (2017). Sheer editorial. [image] Available at: http://data:image/jpeg;base64,/ 9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/thMSWmx/ [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Yemchuk, Y. (2018). Vogue China. [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/236x /9a/21/39/9a21398180d3669482dfb5453c7c2ba8.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Black sheer top. (2018). [image] Available at: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rRCIfacKQfM/ UqwsAxp3yHI/AAAAAAAAO3o/C6UJ2WKZB1M/s1600/tumblr_mb9vi8bF3X1qm86p7o1_1280.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Kate Moss x Calvin Klein. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://5b0988e595225.cdn.sohucs. com/images/20171122/46da35d0a5d4451f954fc758c4685f26.jpeg [Accessed 18 May 2018].
Tom Ford sheer. (2015). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/50/41/52/5041527d5e008d748dd49436dda42170.jpg [Accessed 23 May 2018].
Zara (2012). Look Book. [image] Available at: https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/ Zara-April-Look-Book-Features-All-Season-Biggest-Trends-Peplums-Fringing-TechnoPrints-White-White-more.png [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Sheer fabrics (2017). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/50/41/52/5041527d5e008d748dd49436dda42170.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
53
White transparency. (2015). [image] Available at: https://i0.wp.com/www.gabiurda. ro/wp-content/uploads/2de8dd0052ca1ffca7103145801e2770.jpg?ssl=1 [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Transparency. (2016). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/b3/11/22/ b3112220fe5cb681e217199becb836a5--trend-board--trends.jpg [Accessed 23 May 2018].
White vintage architecture. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg. com/236x/e7/36/d0/e736d0dcf5b1edcf17bd14232fdf8d8e--architectural-columns-architectural-styles.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
New Look sheer. (2017). [image] Available at: https://image1.stileo.it/images/25596924/I410x410-new-look-top-trasparente-con-maniche-a-sbuffo-e-perlenero-asos-neri-sintetico.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
White columns. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://s3.envato.com/files/55253064/ preveiw.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Etheral Valentino. (2014). [image] Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ff/2f/ f2/ff2ff216892f960c824f5d54e805c9e0.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
Architecture. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://78.media.tumblr.com/4125354d27ff10bef8d6366789438de4/tumblr_ndwrg9kLNG1r85eq1o1_1280.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2018].
54
ELLE logo. (n.d.). [image] Available at: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/9/9c/ELLE_Magazine_Logo.svg [Accessed 24 May 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms, styling shoot. [17th May 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms, styling shoot. [17th May 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms, styling shoot. [17th May 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms, styling shoot. [17th May 2018].
Rybalko, G. (2018). [image] Nottingham Trent University, Arkwright rooms, styling shoot. [17th May 2018].
Transparency trend. (2015). [image] Available at: https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ToU0lQzMga0/7969f11f3832ff87bba48ef90dd363a9.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2018].
55
REFERENCES Atkinson, N. (2017). Fashion and politics: How this show shatters the idea that clothes are mere adornment. [online] The Globe and Mail. Available at: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/ how-this-show-shatters-the-idea-that-clothes-are-mere-adornment/article20574519/ [Accessed 13 May 2018]. Barnes, L. and Lea-Greenwood, G. (2006). Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, an international journal. Fast fashion, 10(3), pp.259-271. Davies, T. (2014). Celebrities have more of an influence on style than friends. [online] Female First. Available at: https://www.femalefirst.co.uk/lifestyle-fashion/stylenews/celebrities-influence-style-more-than-frien ds-554163.html [Accessed 15 May 2018]. Drew, D. and Yehounme, G. (2017). The Apparel Industry’s Environmental Impact in 6 Graphics. [online] World resources institute. Available at: http://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics [Accessed 17 May 2018]. Grant, A. (2010). The History Of Transparency In Fashion. [online] The Fashion Spot. Available at: http:// www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/106222-the-history-of-transparency-in-fashion/ [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Hepworth, D. (2014). Fashion magazines reap the benefit of print – but there have to be enough ads. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/media/media-blog/2014/feb/16/fashion-magazines-print-advertising-porter [Accessed 15 May 2018]. Into the fashion. (2010). Cultural Influences On Trend Forecasting. [online] Available at: http://www.intothefashion.com/2010/01/cultural-influences-on-trend.html [Accessed 12 May 2018]. Kim, E., Fiore, A. and Kim, H. (2011). Fashion trends. London: Bloomsbury, p.13. Munro, C. (2018). Why transparent fashion is trending in the era of oversharing. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38987/1/transparent-fashion-trending-in-era-of-oversharing-posttruth [Accessed 19 May 2018]. Nichols, M. (2010). Bloggers carry growing fashion industry influence. [online] Reuters. Available at: https:// uk.reuters.com/article/us-newyork-fashion-internet/bloggers-carry-growing-fashion-industry-influence-idUSTRE68E2II20100915 [Accessed 15 May 2018]. Singh, D. (n.d.). Fashion Trends,Understanding Fashion, Fashion Trend Forecasting. [online] Fibre2fashion. Available at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3091/pink-is-out-but-blue-is-in-understanding-fashion-trend-forecasting [Accessed 10 May 2018]. Sweeny, G. (2015). Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. [online] EcoWatch. Available at: https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-is-the-second-dirtiest-industry-in-the-world-next-tobig--1882083445.html [Accessed 17 May 2018]. Tomlinson, J. (2003). The agenda of globalisation. [ebook] p.273. Available at: http://irep.ntu.ac.uk/id/ eprint/24428/1/196382_443%20Tomlinson%20Pre%20Publisher.pdf [Accessed 17 May 2018]. W. Rabine, L. (n.d.). Globalization and the Fashion Industry | LoveToKnow. [online] LoveToKnow. Available at: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-clothing-industry/globalization-fashion-industry [Accessed 15 May 2018].
BIBLIOGRAPHY Almassi, H. (2018). Why Is No One Questioning the Plastic Fashion Trend?. [online] Who What Wear. Available at: https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/plastic-fashion-trend--5aa03ba493b1c/slide3 [Accessed 7 May 2018]. Hannelly, M. (2017). Trend Report: It’s All Downhill From Sheer. [online] Mood Sewciety. Available at: https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/trend-report-sheer/ [Accessed 5 May 2018]. Highsnobiety. (2015). Has Social Media had a Positive Impact on the Fashion Industry?. [online] Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/04/08/has-social-media-had-a-positive-impact-on-the-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Holland, G. (2017). Fashion trend forecasting. 1st ed. London: Laurence King Publishing. Hughes, N. (n.d.). Key trend - sheer remix. [online] Matches Fashion. Available at: https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/archive/how-to-wear-sheer/?noattraqt=Set [Accessed 3 May 2018]. Munro, C. (2018). Why transparent fashion is trending in the era of oversharing. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38987/1/transparent-fashion-trending-in-era-of-oversharing-posttruth [Accessed 19 May 2018]. Olivia Palermo. (2016). Trend Report: Sheer Genius. [online] Available at: http://oliviapalermo.com/trend-report-sheer-genius/?slide=1 [Accessed 4 May 2018]. Perry, P. (2018). The environmental costs of fast fashion. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www. independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/environment-costs-fast-fashion-pollution-waste-sustainability-a8139386. html [Accessed 17 May 2018]. Singer, O. (2017). From Plastic To Tulle: A Trend For Transparency. [online] Vogue. Available at: http:// www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/spring-summer-2018-fashion-trend-transparency# [Accessed 14 Mar. 2018]. Tonks, A. (2018). Jackie Kennedy in pictures: First Lady and 60s fashion icon. [online] Express.co.uk. Available at: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/style/922466/Jackie-Kennedy-pictures-Jackie-O-Onassis-style-iconpictures [Accessed 19 May 2018]. Walsh, L. (2014). Seductively Sheer Editorials : sheer fashion. [online] Trend Hunter. Available at: https:// www.trendhunter.com/trends/sheer-fashion [Accessed 20 May 2018].
57
APPENDIX
