Fashion Marketing Final Major Project by gabriellemai

COS NURSING WEAR GABRIELLE MAI RILEY

cos nursing wear has arrived

CONTENTS PAGE

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF BRAND AND TREND - PAGE 2

THE BUSINESS MODEL - PAGE 18

PROJECT 1 - PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PAGE 20

PROJECT 5 - LAUNCH EVENT- PAGE 82

18 MONTH TIMELINE- PAGE 90

VISUAL MERCHANDISING - PAGE 92

PROJECT 2 - SHOOT AND CAMPAIGN CREATION - PAGE 50

PROJECT 3 - SOCIAL MEDIA - PAGE 58

PROJECT 4 - PRINT MEDIA - PAGE 72

FINANCES -PAGE 98

APPENDIX - PAGE 102

REFERENCE LIST - PAGE 144

DEMAND FOR COS NURSING WEAR A lack of availability on the current high street market has led to a need for fashionable, affordable nursing wear collection meeting a gap in the marketplace. This will help the normalising breastfeeding trend with 1/3 women feeling uncomfortable breastfeeding outside of their own home and 6/10 women take steps to hide it when they breastfeed in public (Community Practitioner, 2017).

“1/10 WOMEN HAVE CHOSEN NOT TO BREASTFEED DUE TO WORRY TO BEING ABLE TO BREASTFEED OUTSIDE THEIR OWN HOME” 7

WHY COS?

WHY COS? Cos meets the consumer demographic of the sophisticated, educated career women who is at a new phase of her life as the new mother. They will provide minimal, subtle yet functional garments which can be wardrobe staples, aesthetically pleasing as well as practical for breastfeeding by adapting a small range of their AW19/20 collection. This will be beneficial for COS as it will retain their existing consumer as they go through a new phase in life as well as attract new consumers who are looking for fashionable nursing wear but may not necessarily shop at COS previously.

MISSION AND UNIQUE SELLING POINT OUR MISSION To create an extension line for COS which is affordable, functional and fashionable. This will take a current COS garment from their main AW19/20 range and adapt it at the design and manufacturing stage to create the functional attributes. These garments will be empowering to women through liberation and make the consumer feel more confident when breastfeeding. USP The USP of Cos Nursing Wear is inspired by the macro trend of body diversity and female empowerment in terms of the normalising breastfeeding organisation. Therefore using their influence to create an affordable, functional yet fashionable collection for the new mother. This will be aesthetically pleasing for the consumer with an added bonus of functional attributes allowing the garment to fulfil its purpose to support women to breast feed in public subtly and modestly. This will provide instant gratification to the consumer as the product will make the consumer feel more comfortable and confident when feeding their baby in public. This will be a high quality collection which will be beneficial to COS as well as the consumer through differentiation providing a collection which their competitors have not yet put onto the current market place.

BRAND IDENTITY â&#x20AC;&#x153;Collection Of Styleâ&#x20AC;? A self explanatory abbreviation which defines British -Swedish fashion brand COS owned by the H&M group (About Cos, 2019). A minimalist brand which links fashion, art and architecture attracting the educated career driven consumer which their clothes connote with their sophisticated styling and design. Their social media links all three aspects creating a life style brand as every image will be engaging for their followers. The brand sells a range of product lines from womenswear, menswear and childrenswear.

THE MACRO TREND The Normalising Breastfeeding Trend A movement which was originally founded in the 1970s is very much needed today as it was then (Simmons, 2018). Through the power of social media the trend is rising again in attempt to liberate women from sexualised stigmas around breast-feeding and the taboo and worry of breastfeeding in public. Celebrities such as Chrissy Tiegan actively push the movement posting their own images breastfeeding along with the hashtag #normalisebreastfeeding. The Macro Trend has gained the support of celebrities and the public via social media as well as being discussed on debate shows such as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Wright stuffâ&#x20AC;? gaining publicity and awareness. However, the trend is yet to gain the support of the fashion industry through the lack of nursing wear available on the market, especially in comparison to maternity wear. This collection will hopefully bring a confidence to 1/3 women that feel uncomfortable breastfeeding outside their own home (Community Practitioner, 2017).

#NORMALISEBREASTFEEDING

THE CONSUMER

NEW MOTHER FASHION CONSCIOUS WELL EDUCATED SOPHISTICATED CAREER WOMEN

THE COS BUSINESS MODEL

THE COS BUSINESS MODEL A new business model will not be needed to be produced for COS nursing wear. The same business model that COS already use for their current distribution and manufacturing strategy stands. The first step will be to design in house, then send the technical drawers to the COS manufacturing team. This will be then distributed by vehicales to the COS warehouses around the country ready to be released into the stores when the release date comes along. One all the garments have been manufactured and placed into storage at the warehouses they will be set up in store by the COS visual merchandising team. Once released consumers will be ready to shop. It is imperical that this process runs smoothly and efficiently so that the garments can be released on time in store and the rest of the marketing strategies will also work on time as they rely on the garment samples to be ready for the campaign shoot. This is shown on the 18 month timemeline. 19

MINI PROJECT ONEPRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

The product development process is an essential element to the nursing wear collection (Grose, 2012, P41). The design process will be converted into the commercial product through the manufacturing stage (Grose, 2012, P41). Using the same business model as the current COS collections, the COS nursing wear extension line will be designed and manufactured by their in house team. At the design stage the COS designers will adapt the AW19/20 collections tops to have nursing wear attributes which will not change the aesthetic of the garment and will be subtle. This will be then sent to the manufacturers who will create a functional, fashionable nursing wear collection. To start off, this collection will be small with 10 garments in the store and small runs will be available. Online exclusives will be further released. Some of these items will be staple garments which can be worn throughout the year however seasonal items will also be released to stay current with fashions. The garments will consist of day and evening wear to give the new mother consumer a variety of garments to choose from, suitable for different occasions. These products will remain to COSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; high quality standard which the brand is renowned for from design, 20

fabric and manufacturing quality as well as keeping their sophisticated minimal aesthetic which is most appealing to the educated career women, going through a new stage of life as the new mother. However keeping with latest fashion trends is also an important attribute to the collection, although the collection will be affordable this will be adding further desire to the range as well as competitive advantage for COS creating an affordable collection which is not readily available by other high street retailers on the current marketplace.

OBJECTIVES Objective To sell 1,000 products in the first three months of the launch. Strategy Create desire and through promotional

awareness strategies

Tactics Use of effective images and campaign video pushed on print and social media as well as exclusive launch party to create desire and awareness.

FOR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Channels Any COS store in the UK as well as online which will have online exclusive products available

THE NEW MOTHER

TARGET MARKET THE NEW MOTHER

Product range is targeted towards the sophisticated, educated fashion conscious new mother who wants to remain effortlessly stylish when out breastfeeding. Creating worry free day trips for mother and baby. The new mothers main priority may not necessarily by buying new clothing however fashion is important to her. Fashion is a way she expressâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; personal style and individual identity, she wants to be able to do this worry free when out with her baby, not compromising her style for basic nursing wear which is currently on the market. This collection is perfect for her and although the market is niche, it will be beneficial for a large number of new mothers. 23

INSPIRATION FOR DESIGN

ON TREND FOR AW19/20 FROM WGSN

Expected results Total revenue expected in sales in 3 months is 30,000 for Nursing wear Campaign. However campaigns will hopefully drive sales other lines of store especially in the womenswear department due to positive brand image created through promotional strategies of new extension line

THE HYBRID SHIRT Similarly to the button detail sweatshirt, an asymmetric design feature is used again with a button detailing. This again can be a feature adapted to create a functional, fashionable, nursing wear garment. However the oversized, directional silhouette is a comfortable garment with a flattering fit (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). A new mother may not want to wear a tight fitting shirt, therefore an oversized relaxed drape is an appropriate silhouette. Balloon sleeves are returning for AW19/20 fashions, this subtle balloon sleeve on the hybrid shirt is perfect to make a subtle statement. This garment is to be dressed down with jeans and trainers for a day time look, or trousers and heels for an evening attire, therefore a versatile garment. FABRIC: COTTON BLEND PRICE: ÂŁ40 COLOURWAYS: GREY, BLACK, BLUE OCCASION: DAY WEAR 28

THE HYBRID SHIRT

THE WRAP SKINNY FIT

THE WRAP SKINNY FIT Perfectforeveningwearortoptodressdownforanicemeal.Thenottingdetailplayswithproportionandprovidesaskinnyfittop.Thiscanbeadapted to nursing wear using the notting detail to untie, leaving a pocket underneath to subtly unclip the top (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018) FABRIC: WRAP IN VELVET AND TOP IN COTTON PRICE: Â£35 COLOURWAYS: RED AND BLACK AND WHITE ALTERNATE OCCASION: EVENING WEAR ALTHOUGH COULD BE DRESSED DOWN

THE WRAP T-SHIRT A wrap overlay effect at the bust which wraps around the garment and ties at the back, similarly to the wrap skinny fit top. This element is perfect for creating a subtle pocket slit under the wrap element for nursing wear. It also adds a more creative feature to the normal T shirt for day to day wear but remaining on trend. The wrap created a flattering fit to the waist by cinching it in. FABRIC: COTTON JERSEY PRICE: Â£25 COLOURWAYS: TAN, GREY BLACK OCCASION: DAY WEAR

THE WRAP T-SHIRT

THE BUTTON DETAIL SWEATSHIRT

THE BUTTON DETAIL SWEATSHIRT Adding a ‘deconstructed feel’ to the turtle neck through an asymmetric (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018) . The asymmetric feature consists of a button down panel which can be adapted for a subtle nursing wear feature(WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). The oversized feel will be a comfortable fit. The slit sleeves add a further fashionable feature. FABRIC: ORAGNIC COTTON PRICE: £40 COLOURWAYS: TAN, GREY AND BLACK OCCASION: DAY WEAR WHICH COULD BE DRESSED UP

THE BOILERSUIT Utility inspired garments is still in for AW19/20 (Walters, 2018). Adding a different style to nursing wear which isn’t usually in collections. The all in one boiler suit has a front middle zip down the chest. This can be extended to further down the chest towards the waist and adapted so it will open wider to the left and right so it is easier to pull open to feed the baby. This garment is in style for this years trends so can be worn when not breast-feeding to. The adoption to breastfeeding would be completely subtle. The relaxed comfortable fit is perfect to look stylish for every day wear. FABRIC: COTTON/POLYESTER BLEND PRICE: £40 COLOURWAYS: GREY, TAN AND BLUE OCCASION: DAY TO EVENING WEAR - WEAR HEELS TO DRESS UP THE BOILER SUIT AND FLATS DURING DAY

THE BOILERSUIT

THE KIMONO SLEEVE SHIRT DRESS

THE KIMONO SLEEVE SHIRT DRESS Nursing mothers class the shirt as a staple piece when breastfeeding. This is an adaption from the classic shirt by creating a kimono sleeve shirt dress, an item which can be dressed down in sliders, trainers or worn on an evening with heels. This item doesn’t have to worn as a dress either, jeans or leggings could be paired with the item for a casual styling. The oversized fit is flattering along with the gathered waist adding a sports influence to the design (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). The shirt collar and button can be adapted to come down longer closer to the waist. This can be then adapted to open wider so the garment is functional for nursing in public. FABRIC: COTTON JERSEY BLEND PRICE: £35 COLOURWAYS: GREY, BLACK AND RED DETAILING ON A WHITE BASE OCCASION: DAY TO EVENING WEAR

THE WRAP WAIST DRESS A sophisticated evening dress for a sophisticated consumer. Similar to the deconstructed AW19/20 trend this dress adapts form and proportion playfully (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). The flattering fit gathers the waist through a wrap design element which ties at the back, creating an hour glass silhouette (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). The feminine dress can be worn as nursing wear and as an evening dress after the nursing period is over (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). Nursing wear adaption can be added with pockets slits by the neckline underneath the wrap detail so they are not obvious. FABRIC: ORGANIC COTTON PRICE: Â£50 COLOURWAYS: TAN, RED, BLUE OCCASION: EVENING WEAR

THE WRAP WAIST DRESS

THE SLOUCHY JUMPER DRESS

THE SLOUCHY JUMPER DRESS A perfect sophisticated item for the COS consumer. This wool maxi dress has a flattering straight silhouette which offers comfort and versatility (Casey, 2018). The asymmetrical neckline keeps in theme with the deconstructed trend of AW19/20 and the element which can b easily adapted for nursing wear (Casey, 2018). This feature can be exaggerated and made so that is it easily pulled down for exposure when nursing. The side seam split adds further detailing to the slouchy dress. FABRIC: WOOL PRICE: Â£35 COLOURWAYS: RED, BLACK, GREY OCCASION: DAY WEAR

The occasion wear neckline creates a ette looks more of The loose neckline

THE ROPE MIDI DRESS must have. The longline wrap style robe dress has kimono sleeves. The waist strap and light V wrap relaxed flattering fit with an adjustable belt (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). Although the silhoua spring summer garment the fabrics such a lame, sheen or velvet and darker hues create a winter fit. can be adapted for a nursing wear garment easily adding a subtle slit which opens the neckline wider. FABRIC: COTTON JERSEY PRICE: Â£40 COLOURWAYS: TAN, BLUE AND WHITE OCCASION: DAY TO EVENING WEAR - COULD BE DRESSED UP

THE ROPE MIDI DRESS

THE DRAW STRING DRESS

THE DRAW STRING DRESS A streetwear inspired garment to the COS nursing wear collection. A similar silhouette and styling to the zip through tunic. A casual yet effortlessly on trend item for the stylish new mother. A luxe leisure sports vibe is created through the simplistic silhouette, drawstring detail and zip through closure (WGSN Womenswear Team, 2018). These elements are which creates the drawstring dress adapt for nursing wear. The zip allows a functional attribute to the dress. FABRIC: COTTON JERSEY BLEND PRICE: Â£30 COLOURWAYS: RED, GREY, AND WHITE OCCASION: DAY WEAR

RANGE PLAN

This process will involve a collaboration of the designer, buyer and merchandiser to finalise the product mix (Grose, 2012, P49).

MINI PROJECT TWOSHOOT AND CAMPAIGN VIDEO CREATION

. A campaign photo and video shoot will go under way as soon as the collaboration is confirmed by COS and samples are made. When the samples are confirmed for mass manufacturing this will be given to the studio team who style and shoot for COS. A range of shoots will be taken from commercial to e-commerce. Firstly, commercial shots will be taken for social and print media to promote and advertise the new extension line. The shoots will be taken on location and studio so a variety of images will be produced for social media. Artistic, minimal locations for COS will be considered. The photos must be inlaying with COSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brand identity and will remain subtle, sophisticated and minimal. This will attract remaining and new COS sophisticated career women consumers at the motherhood stage in life. A range of ethnically diverse models will be chosen, models with young babies will be favoured as the photos will consist of some images of models breastfeeding. For e-commerce purposes the images will be taken in a studio. Their will be a mixture of models on their own and with baby.

OBJECTIVES . Objective To create intriguing images which combine COS aesthetic and the aim of the product which is nursing wear.

Tactic To use COS photographers and stylists to make sure the COS aesthetic is apparent Channel Print and

social

media

FOR CAMPAIGN AND VIDEO SHOOT

Strategy To use imagery that will be shocking, different to the usual COS campaign imagery of women breastfeeding in a minimal, artistic way

THE SOPHISTICATED OBSERVER

TARGET CONSUMER .

THE SOPHISTICATED OBSERVER

A video and photo campaign will be used for both print and social media advertisements. Print media adverts will be issued in magazines. By using both print and social media COS will be able to attract a range of mothers. As the age range for this campaign is vast and could range from 20-40, the older generation of new mothers may not be active on social media, however still subscribe to Vogue or buy OK magazine. The consumer will be the sophisticated career women so mothers starting their family at the age of 30 - 40 is common now. A sophisticated styling and imagery will be used for the campaign video and images. This styling will hopefully attract the consumer and generate desire through images created.

Expected Result The photo shoot will be expected to create a variety of sophisticated imagery which combines new motherhood and the nursing wear collection in a way which will attract the career women who is a new mother. The normalising breastfeeding trend will be apparent as well as clear COS brand identity. This will generate engagement and sales through social and print media.

MINI PROJECT THREESOCIAL MEDIA Social media is one of the most important channels to use when promoting a new fashion product, especially when targeting a younger audience. Although the target market is vast for this collection from 23-40 the young women of today will usually have a social media account, especially the fashion conscious female. Similarly to Pinterest, Instagram can be used to find fashion inspiration and shop new looks from brand instagram accounts, with the new business setting, brands can now tag their products so consumers have a direct link to shop. This will generate sales due to ease, consumers want to be able to buy products quick and easily. Instagram Instagram is a specifically popular product for business owners (Welch, 2018, P31). The demographic most active on Instagram is the 18-29 year old (Welch, 2018, P31). This is a large demographic for the COS consumer and the new mother. Cos has an aesthetically pleasing, attractive instagram page which combines fashion, art, interior and architecture. Therefore it attracts a wide audience of these similar interests through the way they portray their brand on their instagram grid. Through instagrams new business mode it is perfect for brands such as COS to create visual content to sell through. Direct links to products from the images provide instant gratification and easy impulse sales. Facebook Facebook is a more all around application, most demographics have an Facebook profile. Having a presence on Facebook is im58

portant as a brand as you can target almost anyone, COS already has a large presence there (Welch, 2018, P28). Facebook has over 1.44 Billion active users each month so it is crucial to spend time on this application to promote product (Welch, 2018, P29). As COS and The nursing wear target audience is a rather large demographic from 23-40 it is important to concentrate promotion of the new extension line on both Instagram and Facebook. Even if other demographics are reached such as a male audience or older audience it could spread to the new mother demographic through word of mouth, tagging, sharing and likes so spreading on social media is a rapid yet vital process. COS will have a trained in house social media team who will post the images being aware of social media algorithms and to push images and content through SEO. This will be left to the COS social media marketing and digital marketing team.

Inside our new cos nurisng wear collection - Welcome to the AW19 Campaign video.

OBJECTIVES Objective Increase social media followers on Instagram and facebook by 10% in first three months as well as raise awareness of new collection through social media. Strategy Use both Paid and Earned media to engage consumers through the use of intriguing social media images and video. Tactic Use of intriguing images and paid media from cosmopolitan, Elle, Vogue and Vanity fair to create earned media from accounts which would be interested in the campaign such as Mother Muse, Harpers Bazaar, Ok and Daily Mail Online. Channel Facebook

and

Instagram.

FOR SOCIAL MEDIA 60

THE SOCIAL MEDIA ESCAPING MOTHER 61

TARGET MARKET SOCIAL MEDIA ESCAPING MOTHER

The modern day women uses multiple social media channels. Social media is not only used to post personal images, information and to stay in touch with friends and family. Social media is used as an escapism from modern day life to browse latest trends, see what is going on in the world, shop the latest fashions and stalk your favourite lifestyle blogger. Social media will be a a major aspect in promoting the COS Nursing Wear collection. Not only will it reach Thousands of COS current followers, the new mother will be made aware of the collection through secondary sources in paid and earned media which will gain COS a new following. Sponsored adds will also appear on social media with the use of cookies if a consumer has been searching for nursing wear collections creating a direct link to shop COS Nursing Wear products.

The Collection you have been waiting for has finally arrived Welcome COS Nursing Wear

EXPECTED RESULT For COS following to go up considerably in the first three months of the release of the collection due to engagement through earned media as well as paid print media campaigns. COS already has a large following so by posting on their own social media it will reach a large following of the consumer demographic.

Costs can depend on a number of factors with paid social media. Professional social media marketing can cost between £1,000 to £20,000 per month (The content factory, 2019). This could depend on the channel. For this campaign respected publications are used for paid media so they will not be for a low price. This could be anywhere from £5,000 - £20,000 per paid post. For this campaign each post will be averaged at £5,000 so the cost in total will be £20,000. The first week of the release of the new extension line for COS will be the most crucial. Here the COS Nursing Wear posts will be most frequent. Here is a first week plan of the social media strategy led by the COS Social media marketing team. 69

DAYS OF THE WEEK - FIRST WEEK OF RELEASE PLAN

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

FACEBOOK

INSTAGRAM

INSTAGRAM AND FACEBOOK STORIES

The first week of the release of the new extension line for COS will be the most crucial. Here the COS Nursing Wear posts will be most frequent. Here is a first week plan of the social media strategy led by the COS Social media marketing team.

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

MINI PROJECT FOURPRINT MEDIA

For this concept a print media campaign for Vogue will be launched as well as print adverts printed in Cosmopolitan, Vanity Fair and Elle Magazine. Vogue however will consist of a cover shoot and four page spread. This will allow COS to spread awareness not only of the new collection but the ideologies behind the design features. The normalising breastfeeding trend will gain publicity as well as the brand COS. Therefore, beneficial for both the organisation, brand and collection.

sive ad in Cosmopolitan is a colour add on the second page, this goes for $302,200 (Alley, 2019). The sixth page goes for around $94,800 and black and white adds are $75,800 (Alley, 2019).

Conde Nast opened publication Vogue is one of he longstanding names in fashion (Alley, 2019). Although print media is dying it sells more than 1.2 Million copies each month which is in top 100 of US magazine sales (Alley, 2019). For a full colour Print media and Vogue magazine have both been strategically cho- ad in Vogue the price is $157, 734 although you can get less sen with the consumer in mind. As the consumer is a sophisticated, expensive adds for $70, 978 which is for a 1/3 of a page (Alley, fashion conscious, educated, career women a publication she is most 2019). Their most expensive ad is their fourth cover for $197,179. likely to read is Vogue. Although Vogue is known to be a fashion magazine it is not shy of publishing articles on politics, lifestyle, beauty and Therefore the print media campaign will be the most exinteriors. Cos and Vogue both share a similar consumer demograph- pensive campaign for COS. However it will be beneic which create a beneficial brand and publication collaboration. ficial by reaching a large target audience through a range of magazines which have a range of consumers. Although print media is dying Vogue would publish their print media articles on their online subscription and website also. Vogue is still a renowned, established and well respected publication which empowers women, therefore the magazine is not only a positive publication for the brand COS but for the normalising breastfeeding trend. Cosmopolitan is one of the top selling magazines in the United states and it is one of top 25 magazines with nearly 3 million copies sold each month in 2010 (Alley, 2019). Adds can vary in price depending on what the brand would like the magazine to produce and where about in the magazine. For example, the most expen72

OBJECTIVES Objective Create and increase brand awareness directly targeting the COS consumer through Vogue and print media fashion publications. Strategy Raising awareness of the new COS nursing wear collection and reasons why behind it through print media. Tactic Magazine advertising, cover issue and four page spread in Vogue. Channel Vogue Magazine for cover and four page spread. Magazine advertising will be in Cosmopolitan, Vanity Fair and Elle Magazine.

FOR PRINT MEDIA 74

THE FASHION CONSCIOUS MOTHER

TARGET MARKET Fashion Conscious Mother

The COS New Mother will be a fashion conscious women who wants to remain on trend while going out with her new baby, with the worry of functional clothing for breastfeeding taken away. This print media campaign will directly target the fashion aware mothers who keep up with the latest trends. The Vogue subscribers who enjoy high fashion trends. As well adverts to attract readers in Cosmopolitan, Vanity Fair and Elle Magazine. Therefore directly targeting the fashion conscious mother through print media which a COS consumer would buy or be interested in buying when looking for a magazine.

COS NURSING WEAR HAS ARRIVED AW19 TREND MUST HAVES

From left to right - COS Nursing Wear COS Nursing Day wear T shirt £20 COS navy day dress £45 COS Rose casual gown £30

From left to right - COS Nursing Wear COS navy day dress £45 COS Rose casual gown £30 COS Nursing Day wear T shirt £20

From left to right - COS Nursing Wear COS Nursing Day wear T shirt £20 COS navy day dress £45 COS Rose casual gown £30

EXPECTED RESULTS An average from 2014 was Vogue sold 214,283 copies a month (Adams, 2016). Therefore an expected result for 2019 is 200,000 copies to be sold of British Vogue. A similar average will be the same for Elle, Cosmopolitan and Vanity Fair (Adams, 2016). Therefore an expected reach to he consumer will be approximately 700,000 copies of magazines sold with a COS magazine add or cover story sold in the month of October. This will hopefully create desire and intrigue consumers to look into the collection further either buying for themselves or a friend who is expecting a child or a new mother. Awareness will also therefore spread through word of mouth from seeing the advert and article.

It will cost approximately ÂŁ76,000 to pay for print media advertising, however each publication has their own rate (Cosmopolitan, 2016). Therefore it will cost COS ÂŁ403,000 to feature four adverts in four publications. However this will boost revenue and create fast initial desire from successful publications resulting in sales.

MINI PROJECT FIVEPRE RELEASE LAUNCH EVENT

One of the main marketing campaigns to promote COS Nursing wear will be a Pre Release Launch event at the COS Regent Street Store. This event will not only promote the new collection and be beneficial for the brand but will be spreading awareness for the Normalising Breastfeeding Trend, the importance of the movement and why COS have created this collection. A member from the organisation will be invited to speak about the trend as well as designers from COS who will speak about the collection and the adaption process from normal womenswear to nursing wear. A talk on how to style the collection will also be available. The whole nursing wear collection will be available to shop after the talk and guests will be able to exclusively buy and pre order the pre release before it goes on sale to the public. The launch will be a ticket and invite only event. Fashion bloggers, journalists and influential social media persons will be invited to promote the event via print or social media. However tickets to the event will be able to buy for ÂŁ30 online and from your local COS store. 15% of ticket sales 82

will go to the Normalising Breastfeeding Trend organisation so they can continue their work empowering women through spreading awareness of the movement. The event will allow guests to network, enjoy a selection of drinks and nibbles, shop the collection exclusively, raise money for charity and promote COS Nursing wear. The talk will begin at 6pm and finish at 10pm. The COS PR team will be in charge of organising this event.

YOU INV ARE P ITED ER WE S T O T ONA AR LLY PRE HE REL COS EAS NU E LA RSIN G UN CH

OBJECTIVES Objective To create an event which will be educational as well as promote COS nursing wear through a pre release pop up event.

Tactic Invite social media personalities and bloggers who are new mothers to post the event on social media, as well as inviting journalists to gain print media coverage. This will hopefully boost social media following and promotion of the collection. Channel Three channels will be combined; Pre Release Launch Event, Social media, and Print Media.

FOR THE PRE RELEASE LAUNCH EVENT

Strategy Raising awareness of the normalising breastfeeding trend, promote COS Nursing Wear, shop the exclusive collection and raise money for charity.

THE FEMINIST MOTHER

TARGET MARKET The Feminist Mother

You don’t have to be an active feminist to empower women and stand up for mothers breastfeeding in public who may be told to cover up or that her actions are “disgusting,” which many women have in the past. This is a current issue which make women feel ashamed for feeding their baby in public, which is completely natural. Many women and men are behind standing up to normalise this issue and would be interested in attending an event which promotes normalisation of the issue through fashion and a new collection, as well as promoting the brand COS. Through social, print media and in store sales of tickets, it will generate awareness and boost tickets sales. There are also consumers of COS who are simply a fan of the brand and would also like to attend an event which is by COS. 85

NO RM BRE ALI SIN A S TFE CO G SN E URS DING I W N ITH G JOI W NU EAR SA . .. T 6P M

An event for the COS consumer, the new mother and an exclusive pre release for the COS nursing wear collection. Collaborating with The Normalising Breastfeeding organisation for a talk on the trend, inspiration behind the collection and why not only you as the consumer but the fashion industry needs this collection. 17th October 2019

Expected Result The Pre Release Launch will be an essential marketing campaign in terms of promoting the Nursing Wear Collection and why the collection is so important, linking to the Normalising Breastfeeding trend and women empowerment. It will be an event which promotes only positivity and an environment where influencers, bloggers, journalists and consumers can network to talk about the collection and shop. Hopefully these ideologies will be represented through social media as the bloggers and influencers post live from the event as well as articles from journalists and bloggers after the event. This will therefore be beneficial for COS as a brand creating a positive brand identity and demonstrating the brand ethos as empowering, as well as an artistic minimal brand. The launch will also be appealing for the target consumer as a sophisticated, educational networking event will be of interest to the COS consumer. If the event is a success it will then tour round the country to the other COS stores in the UK. 88

The location won’t be expensive as it will be an existing COS space. However a caterer and waitressing staff will need to be considered. A Visual Merchandising team will be put together to help re arrange the store so it is appropriate for the event, including the speakers wages on the night. The staff will work 6 hours and will be paid £10 an hour. Their will be a team of 10 staff members. A quote from a local catering company suggested that £300 will be the price for canapés and prosecco will also be included on arrival (Thumbtack, 2019). However 250 tickets will be available to buy and will be sold for £30 each which will generate £7,500 in ticket prices.

CHANNELS SHOOT AND VIDEO CAMPAIGN CREATION PRINT MEDIA

SOCIAL MEDIA

LAUNCH EVENT

JUNE 19 Start to source mood boards/models

JULY 19 Arrange shoot location/time/models/ photographer

PR company start dealing with magazines which would be interested in promoting the campaign COS social media team start planning when the first posts will go out.

Liaise with Vogue and plan when the shoot will be for a cover and 2 page spread.

Book the location, caterers and speaker.

Promote launch event and release tickets

AUGUST 19 Carry out shoot for commercial and ecommerce Shoot for Vogue

First Campaign image released to announce release

PRODUCT Design process Designs confirmed of DEVELOPMENT begins adaption before manufacturing process starts. Samples made

Manufacturing process of garment starts.

LABEL Label designs DEVELOPMENT started

Labels manufactured

WEBSITE Mock ups for DEVELOPMENT nursing wear to be added to the website.

SEPTEMBER 19 Start to release campaign images

Finished garments sent to warehouse

Ecommerce images sent for website development.

OCTOBER 19

October Issue of Vogue released with Cos Nursing wear and Normalising breastfeeding trend edition. Post Vogue images on Cos InstagramFirst week will be majority Nursing wear.

NOVEMBER 19 Smaller shoots for social media re-arranged.

DECEMBER 19

Post 4 posts a Post images month of from Launch new event. collection including customer breastfeeding stories and how the normalising breastfeeding trend can help

Launch event with Prerelease of un released garments Visual Full collection Merchandising in stores team sort now. shop floor ready for new stock

Designers thinking of new online exclusives which could be released as well as SS20 development

Full collection released on website with online exclusives.

18 MONTH TIMELINE 90

JANUARY 20

FEBRUARY 20

Focus on Re post online campaign exclusive video. nursing wear garments.

Manufacturing process for further online exclusives

CHANNELS SHOOT AND VIDEO CAMPAIGN CREATION

MARCH 20 Brief and arrange shoot for SS20

APRIL 20 Shoot for SS20 Collection

PRINT MEDIA

SOCIAL MEDIA

LAUNCH EVENT PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

LABEL DEVELOPMENT

Social media team get briefed on new SS20 Nursing wear images to be released. Manufacturing Sample garments process for sent for shoot. SS20 garments. Label design mocked up for

MAY JUNE 20 20 Images finished editing to release at the end of month. Cosmopolitan shoot for SS20 collection and how nursing wear collection has got on. Post new SS20 garments.

SS20 SS20 garments sent garments to warehouse. released in store and online. Labels manufactured

SS20 collection WEBSITE DEVELOPMENT

SS20 ecommerce images sent to website development team.

New garments updated on website.

JULY 20 Brief and arrange shoot for AW20

AUGUST 20 Shoot for AW20.

SEPTEMBER 20 Images completed to put out for end of month.

Post AW20 shoot images.

Label design mocked up for AW20 collection.

Labels manufactured.

AW20 images sent to website development team .

OCTOBER NOVEMBER 20 20

VISUAL MERCHANDISING VISUAL MERCHANDISING Visual merchandising can be associated with the retail space as well as a stores website layout online. The process of Visual Merchandising is the process of collecting, sorting, editing, displaying and performing products to attract customers towards the retail space (Cope and Maloney, 2016, P161). This creates desire to buy the product from a number of aspects such as window display, store layout and interior visual elements (Cope and Maloney, 2016, P161). COS prides itself as a brand with a minimal aesthetic represented in their garments, visual merchandising and architecture. Womenswear design manager Karin Gustaffson explains “At Cos, we want to propose a style inspired by architecture, graphics, design and arts” (Walker, 2012) this is clearly curated through their visual merchandising to the design elements of the garments. As COS stands for ‘Collection of Style’ their collection is usually associated with stylish basics and zeitgeist-y geometric, minimal pieces (Walker, 2012). This style combined with their visual merchandising creates the brand identity of COS optically. Therefore, the in-store visual merchandis92

ing teams for all the UK COS stores would re arrange the layout of the store to fit the new nursing wear collection. However, the aesthetic, brand identity and style will stay the same. The week that the collection drops the window displays of the COS stores around the UK will be in promotion of nursing wear using the COS Nursing wear imagery and products. This will draw attention into the store by intriguing the consumer with a new visual window display with a theme different from the usual minimal seasonal displays COS use. As previously stated by Simon Doonan, Barneys Creative Ambassador in 2002 “Visual Merchandising must weave a spell around the customer… make her fall in love” (Cope and Maloney, 2016, P159).

cos nursing wear has arrived

A capsule collection for the COS mother. Adapted design to create an innovative, functional, collection with your needs in mind.

nursing wear by

LABEL DESIGN To remain a COS aesthetic the branding will be minimal. However to make sure the consumer is aware they are buying a nursing wear product the extension line within the store will be labelled with Nursing Wear as well as the swing tags in the garments. The branding and font type of the original COS logo will be used with an added â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Nursing wearâ&#x20AC;? to remain subtle and minimal. 95

WEBSITE DESIGN

Online visual merchandising is just as important as the store space. Online shopping has taken over the physical shopping in store experience so easy navigation and a clear website is key. This is how the future of visual merchandising is evolving, a recent survey of visual merchandisers, academics and retail journalists revealed the future of visual merchandising is now “split between a quest toward increasingly sophisticated technology, versus a move away from technical solutions towards warmer, more human interaction”(Cope and Maloney, 2016, P174). Primary research has shown that many existing retailers would not have a direct link to Nursing Wear collections available on their website. Nursing wear was either paired

with maternity wear or was not visually shown on the website, products would only appear when physically searched in the search bar. The COS nursing wear collections will be easy to navigate and find. On the month of the release of the collection the homepage will be modified with the campaign video and images. Under womenswear in the drop down box “Cos Nursing Wear” will be added. Clear E-commerce images will be shown modelling the functional attributes of the product as well as the subtle styling of the garment, campaign images of the individual product will also be available to scroll. An online exclusive range will also be added.

Nursing wear

OVERALL FINANCIALS Price Points As previously stated the collection will be affordable. Although will be more expensive from some competitors on the market such as H&M who do sell a basic, small nursing wear collection. The COS products however will be of higher quality therefore better value for money and higher longevity in comparison to the likes of H&M garments. The COS price points can vary from £17-£150 which is dependant on materials and manufacture. The COS nursing wear collection however will be on the lower end of the scale ranging from £20-£50 depending on the item as the collection will consist of not only tops but dresses and jumpsuits to give the new mother a choice of styles for her nursing wear wardrobe. Product Development As a new business model will not need to be developed and the COS nursing wear collection will use the same as COS main collections this will cut considerable costs. The garments will be adapted at the design stage by COS in house designers and manufactured by their manufacturing team, although the manufacturing will be slightly more complex than the womenswear aw19 collection as their will be functional attributes to add. Through previous research into competitors price points, it is clear that it will cost approximately £5 Million to create the brand extension in terms of product development (French Connection, 2018). 98

Marketing and Promotion Four main marketing campaigns will go ahead to promote the extension line. Photo and video campaign shoot, social media campaign, print media campaign and a pop up launch. The overall costs to complete these marketing campaign strategies will be approximately ÂŁ5 Million. This was an estimate due to research into Asos campaign revenue and costs as they spent 106.7 Million in 2017 on marketing and promotion which produced 4.4% of sales. Cos will not need as big of a marketing campaign as Asos spent on all their collections especially as this is a Cos Extension line. However, the four campaigns will hopefully attract consumers, generating desire and want consenting in sales and positive brand awareness. Labour Costs Labour costs consist of the payroll, distribution and warehousing. This will not be widely affected due to the extension line, however the payroll may be increased slightly over design and manufacturer staff working on the collection as well as warehousing costs. This will be estimated at an extra ÂŁ1 Million. Overall. Estimated from 2017 annual reports from competitors these estimates have been drawn up. Overall it will cost COS ÂŁ12 Million to produce this extension line and market and promote it. 99

CONCLUSION

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To conclude, COS Nursing Wear will be an attractive collection for a range of new mothers. The target audience is rather wide from younger women in their 20s to mothers in their 40s. This collection will provide fashionable wear that is minimal, sophisticated and on trend. The product range is varied to make sure there is something all age ranges could buy from as well as taking a range of occasions into account day to evening wear. Four promotional strategies have been strategically picked to attract a range of mothers. Although COS has a specific target audience the promotional strategies will target a niche market to make sure a range of new mothers are aware of the collection. The inclusive collection will be beneficial to three parties, COS, the consumer and the normalising breastfeeding organisation. The macro trend will not be forgotten as the inspiration of the collection and awareness will be spread through the collaboration with the fashion industry. Cos will be benefitted not only through profitable resources but a positive brand identity will be reinforced through the promotional strategies as a brand which empowers women and behind an important movement. 101

APPENDICES

THE HYBRID SHIRT SILHOUETTE: OVERSIZED LOOSED RELAXED FIT FABRIC: COTTON STYLE: OVERSIZED ASYMMETRIC SHIRT NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: YES THROUGH THE ASYMMETRIC BUTTON DESIGN COST: Â£30 INSPIRATION : ASYMMETRIC AW19/20 TREND COS STYLE?: YES IN A BLOCK COLOUR NOT A CHECK 102

AW19/20 FASHION TRENDS WGSN RESEARCH

THE WRAP SKINNY FIT SILHOUETTE: TIGHT LONG SLEEVE FIT FABRIC: POLYESTER BLEND STYLE: LONG SLEEVE TOP WITH WRAP ELEMENT TO CINCH WAIST NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: YES UNWRAP THE WRAP TIE DETAIL AND HAVE SLITS COST: Â£25 INSPIRATION : PLAYING WITH PROPORTION AND FABRIC LAYERING COS STYLE?: YES BUT MAKE WRAP MORE SUBTLE 103

THE BUTTON DETAIL SWEATSHIRT SILHOUETTE: OVERSIZED COMFORTABLE FIT FABRIC: LOOPBACK SWEAT STYLE: DECONSTRUCTED TURTLE NECK NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: YES, CROSS OVER THE BUTTON DETAIL ON BOTH SIDES OF CHEST COST: Â£30 INSPIRATION :ASYMMETRIC / DECONSTRUCTED TREND COS STYLE?: YES IN A MINIMAL COLOUR PALETTE

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THE WRAP T SHIRT SILHOUETTE: SKINNY FIT FABRIC: COTTON STYLE: WRAP T SHIRT WITH TIE DETAIL ON BAG NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: SLITS CUT UNDERNEATH THE WRAP DETAILING COST: Â£25 INSPIRATION : LAYERING TREND COS STYLE?: YES HOWEVER KEEP THE WRAP DETAIL MORE MINIMAL

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WRAP BLOUSE SILHOUETTE: LOOSE FIT FABRIC: SATIN STYLE: BLOUSE NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: THE WRAP ADAPTOON COST: Â£40 INSPIRATION : ASYMMETRIC TREND COS STYLE?: YES

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THE BOILERSUIT SILHOUETTE: LOOSE FIT FABRIC: COTTON BLEND STYLE: ALL IN ONE JUMPSUIT NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: LENGTHEN THE BUTTON FASTENING COST: Â£45 INSPIRATION : UTILITY WEAR COS STYLE?: YES WITHOUT BADGES

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THE KIMONO SLEEVE SHIRT DRESS SILHOUETTE: OVERSIZED KIMONO SLEEVES FABRIC: LINEN STYLE: KIMONO, WAIST BAND STYLE NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: MAKE THE BUTTONS GO DOWN FURTHER TO ALLOW EASIER OPENING COST: Â£40 INSPIRATION : KIMONO STYLE COS STYLE?: YES

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THE ZIP THROUGH TUNIC SILHOUETTE: LONGLINE OVERSIZED FIT FABRIC: POLYESTER STYLE: SLEEVELESS TUNIC NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: ADAPTING THE ZIP COST: Â£30 INSPIRATION :STREETWEAR COS STYLE?: YES - MINIMAL AND STREET INSPIRATION

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THE WRAP WAIST DRESS SILHOUETTE: FEMININE LONGLINE , ELEGANT DRAPE FABRIC: COTTON BLEND STYLE: FEMININE SOPHISTICATION NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: EXAGGERATED LOOSE NECKLINE COST: Â£50 INSPIRATION :DECONSTRUCTED PROPORTIONS COS STYLE?: YES

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THE SLOUCHY JUMPER DRESS SILHOUETTE: OVERSIZED KNIT FABRIC: WOOL STYLE: KNIT NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: THE SLOUCH NCKLINE ELASTICATED SO IT STRETCHES COST: Â£40 INSPIRATION : JUMPER DRESS COS STYLE?: YES

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THE ROPE MIDI DRESS SILHOUETTE: ROBE DRESS FABRIC: LAME STYLE: RELAXED ROBE DRESS NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: OPEN NECKLINE COST: Â£45 INSPIRATION : EVENING ATTIRE FORECAST COS STYLE?: YES

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THE DRAWSTRING DRESS SILHOUETTE: OVERSIZED FABRIC: NEOPRENE STYLE: LOOSE FIT NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: ELONGATE THE ZIP COST: Â£35 INSPIRATION : STREET AND SPORTSWEAR COS STYLE?: YES

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THE REWORKED SHIRT

SILHOUETTE: FOCUS ON WAIST FABRIC: COTTON STYLE: EVENING DRESS NURSING WEAR ADAPTATION: COST: Â£35 INSPIRATION : DECONSTRUCTED TREND COS STYLE?: NO

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LETTUCE EDGE HOODIE

SILHOUETTE: FITTED FABRIC: RIBBED JERSEY STYLE: HOODIE NURSING WEAR ADAPTION: ZIPPED HOODIE FASTENING COST: Â£30 INSPIRATION : ASYMMETRIC TREND COS STYLE?: NO

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WHAT DOES THE NURSING MOTHER WANT?

Mothers want easy access when breastfeeding. They also want to feel comfortable with their garment that when their baby needs feeding they can quickly feed them without any hassle caused. Garments with a slit or flap in the front of the garment are preferred which are easy to breastfeed with and discreet (Murray, 2019). According to Very Well Family website this is what they advise new mothers to wear: - Comfortable nursing tops - Nursing bras - Nursing tank tops - Nursing, wraps or button down dresses. (Murray, 2019) This is what they advise nursing mothers to avoid: - jumpsuits or rompers - dresses without front buttons - excessive layers - regular or underwire bras - tight or flimsy tops (Murray, 2019) Tips for picking out breastfeeding clothes from Very Well Family (2019). - Patterns, prints and darker colours will hide unexpected leaks better than lighter tones. - Wear breast pads inside your nursing bra to prevent stains from unexpected leaks. - Have a jacket, vest, sweaters, scarves or a shawl on hand to cover any stains. - Avoid tight fitting bras, tops, and blouses as this can be uncomfortable and could potentially lead to sore nipples or plugged milk ducts. (Murray, 2019)

Breastfeeding clothes types 1. Nursing shirts and blouses A staple to have in the nursing wear wardrobe. Breastfeeding fashions are starting to improve over the years and different styles and colours are now available. Nursing tops usually have sides that pull over, button down or pull up so they are practical (Murray, 2019). Some may be obvious they are nursing wear items however some styles are more subtle than others. 2. Nursing bras Nursing bras have flaps or panels which provide access to breastfeed without having to take off your bra. These will be supportive, well fitting and comfortable. When buying a bra choose one from natural, absorbent, breathable soft fabric so they are comfortable and absorb leaks (Murray, 2019). 3. Nursing Tank Tops Otherwise known as a cami, this top is an ideal addition to your noosing wear wardrobe. The straps unclip and pull down so add both comfort and practicality. If it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t warm enough to simply wear a tank top add layers on top (Murray, 2019). 4. Nursing Sleepwear Sleep in something comfortable for nighttime feeds, this could be a nursing tank top, yoga pants or a nursing nightgown (Murray, 2019). 5. Nursing Dresses and Formal Wear Dressing up, going for dinner or an occasion is a worry about what to wear. Nursing wear dresses and formalwear dresses are available (Murray, 2019). However from primary research stylish nursing shirts, dresses and formal wear was particularly hard to find. Consequently this COS nursing wear collection being created so fashionable nursing wear for a number of occasions casual and formal can be considered.

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COS NURSING WEAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MUST HAVES 1. All items must be subtle so they can be worn after nursing wear 2. A variety of styles must be in the collection for a range of occasions 3. A range of versatile garments which can be adapted to be casual or more formal should be created so they are fit for more than one purpose 4. Must be functional 5. Must be comfortable 6. Must be on trend

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CURRENT COS GARMENTS WHICH COULD BE ADAPTED TO NURSING WEAR - SS19 VOLUMINOUS SHAPE SHIRT DRESS IN CHALK PINK £69 A kaftan inspired garment perfect for SS19 weather, for a casual and relaxed yet stylish throw on (Cos womenswear, 2019). This garment could be designed and manufactured with nursing wear attributes through the wide, loose neckline This could be made slightly longer using a material which is more prone to stretch. A slit could also be added to allow stretch easier.

GATHERED A LINE SLEEVELESS DRESS IN COBALT BLUE £79 This current SS19 blue dress is perfect to create a nursing wear garment which is not on the market. The quarter zip fastening could be adapted again to open to the left of right as well as straight down (Cos womenswear, 2019). An invisible zip would be put in to allow the design of the dress to not be altered and the adaption subtle.

THE OPEN COLLAR SHIRT in OPTIC WHITE £59 The sailor style open collar can be easily designed with modifications to create an open collar nursing shirt (Cos womenswear, 2019). This shirt adds a design feature which makes it stand out from the staple white shirt so would be perfect for a new mother who doesn’t want to stick to the same simplistic nursing wear styles.

BELTED POPLIN SHIRT DRESS IN WHTIE £79 This Belted poplin shirt dress is a SS19 style which could be adapted easily to nursing wear collections (Cos womenswear, 2019). Although the shirt dress opens easily, the button fastening down the middle of the garment could be adapted to open wider above the belt so it is a more discrete way. Cotton Poplin.

CASHEMERE HOODED TOP £150 IN DARK GREY For the mother with a relaxed, laid back style. This sophisticated hooded top in an extra soft cashmere would be a perfect silhouette to modify (Cos womenswear, 2019). The wrap, open neckline could be adapted to stretch and open wider. This item could come with a modified turtle neck to match and be sold a nursing wear pair.

KNITTED ORGANIC COTTON POLO SHIRT £55 IN CREAM A staple every women should have for SS19 whether breastfeeding or not. This polo shirt can be again modified to create a neckline which is more suitable for the breastfeeding function. Therefore the nursing mother will have more items for her summer wardrobe which are on trend yet functional to her baby needs (Cos womenswear, 2019). A nursing wear collection which is subtle and easy to breast-feed in public discreetly will help a large proportion of new mothers feel more confident when out with their baby and worry less about the process. 121

FABRICS COS TEND TO USE COS use a variety of fabrics in their work. They are known for their good quality and long lasting garments so choosing sustainable fabrics are key. From observing their garments by store and website here are a range of fabrics they have used. High quality cotton is a key fabric used for a range of their garments from dresses, tops to skirts. As an absorbent fabric cotton is a favourite to dye for patterns. Although a minimal brand they have a range of patterns used throughout their product range. Abstract inspired prints have been used for their SS19 collection. As seen in the WGSN trend forecast abstract prints are also on trend for AW19/20 so the abstract pieces will be perfect to transition into the next season wear. For the SS19 collection a lightweight cotton is used so it is appropriate for summer weather. For the AW19 collection a heavier weight cotton would be more appropriate to keep the consumer warmer for the colder temperatures approaching (Cos womenswear, 2019). An organic cotton is also on the list of COSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fabrics used for SS19 (Cos womenswear, 2019). This casual fabric is more sustainable which is an imperative for the AW19/20 collection. The organic cotton has a fine knit quality finished with chunky knit trims along the sleeve. This will be a loose knit so it is breathable in the warmer weather. A close knit would be used for winter to not allow the body heat to escape, consequently resulting in the consumer staying warm (Cos womenswear, 2019). This would be more appropriate for the winter nursing wear collection. A combination of cottons were noted. A technical cotton was used for a crossbody bag as well as cotton mix for a white shirt to create a more sturdy fabric. Other mixes were used such as a cotton/linen and cotton/jersey blend (Cos womenswear, 2019).

A hooded cashmere top was along other in the collection (Cos womenswear, 2019). Cashmere is a warm, extra soft fabric. In this case a melange finish was also added. Cashmere is a more expensive luxury fabric and is at a higher price point in the COS range. As the nursing wear collection is an affordable range cashmere would not be used, however it is an appropriate fabric for an autumn winter collection. A textured jacquard is used to create a printed piece for an item in the top product range (Cos womenswear, 2019). The gathered jacquard A-line top was priced at ÂŁ69. It crated a circular pattern then cut for the A-line fit paired with a zip fastening and A line fit. The textured jacquard would be a perfect fabric to use for the AW19 collection as well as the SS19 range as it also fits in with the WGSN fabric and materials forecast for a number of themes.

Linen is also a popular fabric when browsing the COS website (Cos womenswear, 2019). Linen is a lightweight fabric usually associated with summer wear so would not be appropriate for the AW19 nursing wear collection. This particular linen is blended with jersey quality for a relaxed but lightweight fit. 122

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FABRICS IN FOR AW19/20 -WGSN TREND FORECAST According to WGSN there are three theme trend forecasts for AW19/20; Free Style, Purpose Full and Light Magic.

ORGANICALLY GROWN Moss, bark and lichen influence yarn weaves, textured leather and suede. Free Style Direction Surfaces are grown through plush or felted yarn contrast jacquards, flock 1. The general free style direction is freeform patterns and structures to create playful prints and lighter shirting weights as well as organic structures. designs. This includes patterns such as camouflage which constructs to adapt to the Application: Perfect for accessories, lingerie, tops, dresses, jackets and body through innovative freeform (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). outerwear for AW19/20 2. Craft styles become more joyful through patchworks, and traditional woven colours which have a global influence on pattern and texture (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). In REMADE TWEEDS particular bold jacquards combined with embroidery and fringing are apparent (Palm- Reinventing the classic tweed for AW19/20 resourcefully using mixed fier and Johnston, 2018). bre fabrics, fibres and threads (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). An anything 3. Fabrics have a more resourceful character. Sustainability is a macro trend of goes motto is applied when it comes to remade tweeds; nipped yarns, AW19/20 as well as a necessity. Sustainable fabrics and thrifty creativity are represented marled yarns or printed and shredded tapes (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). through recycled fibres and yarns created into new fresh tweeds (Palmer and Johnston, Application: Accessories, dresses, jackets and separates. 2018). 4. Fashion and sports influences active glamour. Jacquard and matelasse fabrics are OPULENT SPORTS popular due to their eco friendly yet glamorous appeal with playfully challenging basic Sportswear has been influencing fast fashion on the high street incredibly notions through sprinkled glitter and encrusted decorations (Palmer and Johnston, for the last few years, not it is becoming somewhat of a staple (Palmer 2018). and Johnston, 2018). New levels of tactility are produced through sportswear. Nylon ripstop paired with shantung silks go out for all opulence Purpose Full Direction (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). Complemented by velvety flock and pad 1. Seek out sustainable fibres and yarns. Again the importance of sustaina- ding to create a sensual platted of rich jewel connoted tones (Palmer and bility is important with fabric choice this year. Use bio natural, sustainable and recycled Johnston, 2018). fibres with eco friendly dyes and finsihes (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). Application: Soft accessories, separated, jackets and outerwear. 2. Enhanced tactility offers everyday luxury. Soft lightweight qualities offering a sense of luxury with a focus on milled woollens, soft plush, and velvet qualities PRETTY INDUSTRIAL (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). A feminine and urban balance defines these light silky jacquards (Palm 3. Weaves embrace perfect imperfection. Floating yarn textures are creat- er and Johnston, 2018). The delicate materials consist of lace and raised ed with a new type of beauty consisting of hobby patterns and jacquards with printed stripes, matelasse weaves and embossed leathers and textured stripes effects (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). influenced by a modernised architectural presence (Palmer and Johnston, 4. Vintage Patterns, construction and evoke heritage craft. Checks tweeds 2018). and stripes take a classic timeless appeal however updated with vibrant tones and dis- Application: Accessories, intimates, dresses, tops, jackets, shirts creet novel yarn updates (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). HERITAGE UTILITY LIGHT MAGIC DIRECTION Twills, fine needlecord, lightly milled flannels, gaberdines, and meltons 1. Nature inspires organic structures. Filligrace lace weaves are rooted in are created with autumnal hues. Pairing stripes and colour blocks togethnature. Heavier tweeds are inspired by lichen and moss patterns through yarns tweeds, er subtly in soft and drier crepe yarns n cotton, linen and wool blends camouflage pattern and organic jacquards (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). 2. Woven Pattern and texture inspired by woodland settings. Fauna and Application: Accessories, shirting, outerwear, jackets. moths inspire tapestry jacquards complemented with feathery brushed yarns and embroidery. Organic pleat weaves represent the form of mushrooms (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). SOFTLY ROMANTIC 3. Chameleon colour and table shine intrigue. This is through a variety of Magical dreamscapes are connoted through textiles (Palmer and Johnforms consisting of reflective prints, holographic coatings, ombre jacquards and space ston, 2018). Vintage silks, scarves and dressing gowns take inspiration dye yarns (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). from floral jacquards and prints(Palmer and Johnston, 2018). Metallic 4. Atmospheric climates are a key inspiration. Again nature is at the front accents are popular, paired with fil-coupe fringes and painted warp silks of inspiration for AW19/20 fabric forecast. This time in the forms of climates through (Palmer and Johnston, 2018). ethereal landscapes, romantic weaves, extreme climates shown in terms of pleats Application: Tops, jackets, dresses, intimates. matelasse fabrics and metallic jacquards. COS can take inspiration for fabric choice from each of the three trend forecast themes. However this can be narrowed down to more relevant fabrics, a variety are shown below: 125

COLOUR FORECAST FOR AW19/20 FROM WGSN

CORE

FASHION

ACCENT

COLOUR FORECAST FOR AW19/20 Again the WGSN colour forecast is split into the three trend forecasting themes Free Style, Purpose Full and Light Magic. These are then split further into three groups Core, Accent and Fashion. Below is a refined recap of the relevant trends which may be applied to COS. FREESTYLE CORE The streetwear inspired theme takes a glamorous colour palette. Reddened brown creates a casual tone with an understated ease. Secondly, pink alabaster embarks as an essential core trend to lift the heavier reddened brown (Craggs, 2018). FASHION Flame and Orb green create a sense of newness to complement the fresh fashion silhouettes. Cool and warm colour tones are combined therefore creative styling options are formed. These colour tones are most effective on brushed wool and velvet surfaces (Craggs, 2018).

Romanticist inspired theme light magic is influenced by a mystery of nature, romance and a slightly dark fantasy. This is mood is represented through the colour scheme of nightfall, living green and carnelian red. FASHION This fashion colour palette brightens up the light magic forecast. Blue Lightening and Moonstone violet boldly complement each other, assisted by block black, metallic and navy hues (Craggs, 2018). To add a feminine twist to the forecast Himalayan salt pink is used Craggs, 2018). ACCENT Harmony is represented with moonshine. Grey essentially complements the moonshine tone to create a traditional winter classic colour palette, used for a sensitive tonal styling (Craggs, 2018).

ACCENT Brightening up the freestyle trend is the accent. A bold alphonso yellow juxtaposed against neutral hues have a slight retro influence (Craggs, 2018). These tones create a contemporary yet urban feel (Craggs, 2018). PURPOSE FULL CORE A softer yet laundered mood is represented through colour in purposeful. Berry tones are back for AW19/20 with the Pink Poplin at the front of the theme supported by a Blue Yonder (Craggs, 2018). FASHION Casual appeal blended with high end luxury are mixed fora purpose full fashion colour palette. Influenced by red tones such as butternut and cherry pop are infused for seasonal warmth (Craggs, 2018). ACCENT The red influence is carried on to the accent. A slight lighter shade of Cherry Wood is confirmed as a winter and autumn drop (Craggs, 2018). Paired with a graphic pleats for a dramatic aesthetic (Craggs, 2018). LIGHT MAGIC CORE 126

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MOOD BOARD FOR PHOTOSHOOT

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MOTHERS MUSE X COS

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OUT TAKES OF THE PHOTOSHOOT

Before creating a photoshoot a moodpboard was created. In industry if this was to be done professionally a combination of COS with an aesthetic similar to the Mothers Muse Magazine imagery would be taken. This aesthetic is shown on the moodboard provided. This wasn’t possible with the resources available. However a photo shoot was taken on campus. Not all of the images went well, the images which weren’t successful are shown on the right. A few locations were used and the stairs were the most effective location which took a similar COS aesthetic. The photos which were successful, before photoshop are shown on the next page. As COS do not have a nursing wear collection as of yet the clothes used are Nursing wear from ASOS. They are more basic than the COS collection would be. However, garments were bought which were as close to a COS brand identity as possible. Three models were used for a variety of body and ethnic diversity as the collection for COS would be diverse. LOCATION - On Campus MODELS- Brooke, Joanna and Ellie TIME- 1 Hour SIZES- Small and Medium Garments - ASOS cost £90 for the full shop

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STORE OBSERVATION A store observation of the COS Leeds store in Victoria Quarter was done. This was so I could understand the store aesthetic, interior and feel further, as well as understand the different qualities to visual merchandising such as the high, eye and ground level further. Using my own imagery I can then edit them to create the visual merchandising feel for the COS Nursing wear Collection. These images are shown to the right. Below I have listed the main themes I observed and noted from the store observation: THEMES OBSERVED: 1. The store was split into sections with the use of rails. Inside the sections was either a variety of mannequins, a table with clothes or a sitting area. 2. The store was split into colour themes, a blue, khaki, neutral and rose theme was in particularly noted. 3. Accessories were paired with the garments which they would best fit and style with 4. The store visual merchandising was simple and minimal. 5. Minimal interiors were used with a sophisticated neutral colour scheme which fit with the store aesthetic perfectly. 6. The store was a real representation of their instagram and social media channels converting the brand identity throughout. 7. Signs around the store were minimal with minimal text not taking up much space of the text box. 8. The ceiling (high level) was basic. 9. The walls were white for a clean and minimal look. 10. Items were displayed on a numbers of levels; shoes on the ground, accessories on tables and clothes on mannequins and hanging.

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VISUAL MERCHANDISING RESEARCH

ONLINE VISUAL MERCHANDISING

MACRO MERCHANDISING

Website design The website design will remain the same as the current COS website appears. However as research shows there is limited access to quick navigation through online visual merchandising to nursing wear collections from existing competitors.

Location • Product grouping Products will be grouped around the store for example, Womenswear downstairs and menswear upstairs. The Nursing wear collection will be on the womenswear department of the store, however slightly isolated so it will not be confused with the normal womenswear.

Navigation and categorisation - Navigation is essential in terms of ease for consumers to find the products. This could affect sales easily. Under the drop down box under ‘womenswwear’ a ‘nursing wear’ hyperlink will be added for easy direct access.

• Product allocation Products will be allocated to their store. The store will be arranged by the visual merchandising team and allocated a space in terms of garment and colour so the store will be easily shop-able.

Product Images - E-commerce images will be shot. These will be used on the website. A mixture of images will be used which show off the style and functional aesthetics of the product. Shots to use: Full shot of model standing Side Shot of standing Side Shot showing functional attributes with baby Full shot of model with baby Close up of functional detail Close up of aesthetic details Behind shot - Each of these shots will be taken for each garment

• Live brand experience (environment change, experience change, emotion change) New COS Nursing wear extension line will be added online and in store. A sitting area is situated in the store so consumers can take a comfortable seat while they consider a purchase.

Catwalk Video - A catwalk video will be added to the website along with product images. This will show how the garment moves with the model. This is most important for nursing wear so the consumers can see how the product will be subtle and the design elements that are modified for functional attributes will not be obvious. Therefore after the nursing period is over the garments still can be worn for fashion wear.

• Entertainment factors (e.g., music) Relaxing music was played.

Other Digital Content - On the homepage the campaign shots will be made to directly advertise the collection to all COS consumers using a swipe tool so you can shop the imagery. By clicking the image it will directly take you to the direct product.

MACRO AND MICRO MERCHANDISING

STORE VISUAL MERCHANDISING Window display As COS are already an established brand with a renowned brand identity in terms of visual merchandising in store, the nursing wear collection will not change any original attributes but will claim a space in the COS retail space and will be laid out in store in the same aesthetic. • Store architecture Architecture is an important influence for COS they pick their stores due to their historical architectural influence (About Cos, 2019). Cos retain the original features of the stores, therefore every store looks different, creating an eclectic mix of shop fronts around the world (About Cos, 2019). Many stores were often historical banks transformed into a juxtaposed modern space on the inside (About Cos, 2019). • Store layout COS aim for a calm, modern retail space with a modern contemporary influence similar to a modern day art gallery creating a peaceful aesthetic to browse and shop (About Cos, 2019). This links to the modern, simplistic yet functional design philosophy the brand portrays (About Cos, 2019). • Interior visual elements (décor, fixtures, props, fittings, point of sale materials, colours, lighting, signs and their special layout) - Minimalist artistic interiors.

• Store guide A department store would usually have a store guide, COS however is a small store and each department is labelled on the walls. • Commercials and advertising The window display will be changed on the release of the nursing wear collection.

• Art & creativity The COS store is inspired from a creative background, the aim is to create an atmosphere similar to an art gallery. Therefore a chilled aesthetic is created where consumers can feel relaxed to browse peacefully in their own time.

High Level: • Store architecture-Modern store situated in Victoria Gate. Minimal and clean bright look. • Wall Paper-White walls, floor and ceiling. • Lighting-Bright natural lighting from wide windows, as well as further bright lighting throughout store • Graphics-No graphics on wall for a clean look. • Pictures-No pictures were situated • Hotspot • Colours-White and neutral colour scheme for interiors. • Product Positioning-Products are positioned in a height order. Shoes are situated on the bottom, just above the floor. Accessories are laid flat on tables and clothes are hanging on rails. • Atmosphere-Relaxed peaceful atmosphere to browse at your leisure. • The general feeling-Enjoyable shopping experience. Eye level: • Mannequins (semi-realistic, realistic or abstract) - Semi Realistic mannequins situated around the store. • Hotspots, • Product positioning-At ground level, products are positioned on rails and tables. They are also positioned around the store in sections in colour schemes. Ground level: • Equipment (props/tables/fixtures/counters/layout store’s blueprint/density/flooring) - At ground level the floors were white, one section had a sitting area with a rug for a more comfortable, warming setting. A sofa and table was also situated here. Shoes were situated at ground level placed just above the flooring. If not careful you could miss the shoes. 134

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A capsule collection for the COS mother. Adapted design to create an innovative, functional, collection with your needs in mind.

nursing wear by

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A capsule collection for the COS mother. Adapted design to create an innovative, functional, collection with your needs in mind.

nursing wear

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Brand Identity Prism J N Kapferer (2007) PHYSIQUE

PERSONALITY

- To release minimal, seasonal garments which are staple wardrobe pieces. - To create sophisticated good quality clothing which will last throughout seasons.

- Combining artistic elements with their design. Cos is a brand which is inspired not only by fashion trends but architecture and art. This is conveyed in their retail space, visual merchandising, social media and products.

CULTURE RELATIONSHIP

Employees resonate with the brand values of COS and demonstrate this while at work to resonate the brand identity internally to customers in store. Therefore creating a strong brand identity throughout.

To create a brand with loyal employees so they represent the brand value externally to consumers - COS employees are loyal, artistic sophisticated workers.

REFLECTION

ASPIRATIONAL SELF IMAGE

The consumer would describe herself as a focused, artistic, career minded , educated individual which links to the brand identity of COS through their fashion, art and architecture influence on their garments.

The consumer would relate the brand to her personal identity through the ethos of COS brand identity. Seeing herself as a sophisticated, knowledgeable individual, a brand which conveys an educated identity and artistic influence through the minimal sophisticated styling of the clothing, fits her personal ethos.

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BRAND ONION BRAND IN ACTION SHOW AN INFLUENCE OF INTERIOR AND ARTISTIC TRENDS AS WELL AS FASHION CREATING A LIFESTYLE BRAND

MIX ARCHITECTURE, ART AND FASHION WITHIN THEIR BRAND IDENTITY

BRAND PERSONALITY CONFIDENT

MINIMAL

BRAND VALUE AFFORDABLE

TIMELESS

BRAND ESSENCE

ADMIRED

STAPLES

MINIMAL STAPLES SOPHISTICATED STYLISH ARTISTIC MODERN

SOPHISTICATED

FASHIONABLE

ARTISTIC INFLUENCE

` LONGEVITY

GOOD QUALITY

SIMPLISTIC

SUSTAINABLE

PHILOSOPHICAL

CONSIDERED DESIGN

GOOD VALUE FOR MONEY

CREATING AN ART INFLUENCED STORE FOR A PEACEFUL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

TO MEET THE WELL EDUCATED CAREER FOCUSED YET FASHION CONSCIOUS NEEDS.

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PAID, EARNED OR OWNED MEDIA MEDIA

WHICH TYPES OF MEDIA COULD WHAT MIGHT IT BE ? I USE?

PAID

Cosmopolitan/ Ok Magazine ? Vanity A link to their online magazine which This would generate awareness to a Fair/ Elle Magazine/ Mother Muse would consist of a write up of the new new audience through the use of payMagazine social media channels product collection ing new media channels with a range of following.

EARNED

This could be through a number of channels on Instagram such as Vanity Fair online or Vogue Online. Individual influencers and bloggers on Instagram who blog for new mothers and women empowerment will be interested in the collection and the meaning behind it.

Attracting attention of online blogs, influencers and sources to talk about the collection and promote it.

OWNED

COS using their own media channels to promote their own collection on Instagram and Facebook.

Their combined following of consum- New consumers developed and a largers will be intrigued by the collection er following gained. can interact and share the collection, to their own following. They can also spread through word of mouth to friends and family who may be interested in nursing wear if they are a new mother.

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WHAT WOULD BE THE OUTCOME?

This will be credible promotion from bloggers who were genuinely impressed by the collection and want to spread awareness to their individual following.

BRAND BUILDING TABLE BRAND BUILDING MARKETING OBJECTIVES SMART GOALS

MARKETING STRATEGIES

WHAT TO MEASURE

SHOOT AND VIDEO CAMPAIGN CREATION

To create images which are effective to promote normalising breastfeeding and the brand COS.

Create an effective digital content through photograph and video.

How effective the Sales through links engagement is of the on social media. images and video.

Social and print media.

Awareness and desire created to generate profit.

PRINT MEDIA

To target the new mother consumer through print media leisure channels which are also associated to the target market.

Create a successful print media in a varety of magazines to focus on different audiences.

How many copies of the magazines were bought to see how many consumers were reached.

Through sales.

Print media magazines - Vogues, Cosmopolitan, OK, Vanity Fair

Sales generated through awareness spread via print media.

Using a range of social media platforms it will create awareness to a range of consumers. This can be shared/ liked/ reposted to generate a further following.

To use social media Sales produced from marketing affectively direct links and on owned media to awareness gained. generate paid and earned content.

Reach, engagement, following, likes, shares, hyper-links clicked.

Facebook and Instagram

Further following on social channels and products bought through direct links.

To create an educational talk on the normalising breastfeeding organisation as well as launch a pre release which ticket holders can buy. PRODUCT DEVEL- To create a nursOPMENT ing wear collection which is affordable, fashionable and functional.

To create a launch event which will create awareness on the product and trend and further social media awareness.

Sales and tickets bought.

The launch event.

Sales bought and spreading awareness on the collection and the normalising breastfeeding organisation.

To create a funcHow many products tional nursing wear are sold. collection for a range of occasions.

Through number of sales in a year.

In store and online.

Products sell out or is not successful.

WEBSITE DESIGN

To create a website where nursing wear is easily naviagted and found directly on the website.

Through checking Online. how the online purchases were recieved.

SOCIAL MEDIA

LAUNCH EVENT

For easy navigation.

Awareness, engagement and desire through sales of pre release product and tickets bought to event.

How many online sales and direct clicks have been used.

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HOW TO MEASURE

WHERE TO MEAS- POSSIBLE OUTURE COMES

Sales online outnumber in store sales.

AWARENESS

Consumer Funnel

The consumer will become aware of the collection through the promotional build up. This will be generated though social and print media strategies as well as pre release launch event which will be advertised and tickets can be bought. The awareness will be built before the collection has been released.

CONSIDERATION As the collection is being further advertised through print and social media strategies the target market will consider purchasing the collection. This could be before the collection has dropped, considering throughout the build up.

DESIRE Desire will be created as the collection is due to release. The Vogue cover campaign will cause further desire to the consumer as a well respected publication in fashion is behind the collection. Earned social media and fashion bloggers promoting the message behind the collection as well as the garment itself will also cause a desire.

INTENTION As the collection is dropped the consumer will actively pursue the collection. They may try the product on at first or observe the product before buying to test out the functional qualities. Some consumers may go away and think of the purchase. Some consumers who do not live next to a COS store may go online and shop and browse the collection.

CONVERSION After deliberating over the product and seen the promotional campaign which intrigues and desires the consumer they buy the product and decide to test the it out for themselves.

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BRAND POSITIONING MAP

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SPLITTING THE TARGET MARKET

media they personally like to use.

WHY?

I decided to look further into my target market and pick promotional strategies to target a specific niche. For example, a social media strategy for a younger active social media user and a print media for the on trend fashion conscious mother. Therefore a range of new mothers are targeted directly through forms of

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

The range was shortened from 30 pieces to 10, this decision was made from feedback from the presentation. Researching into product development and trend research in depth was also mentioned from presentation feedback.

CAMPAIGN CREATION

A campaign was created to generate content for digital and print media strategies. To make this realistic the COS studio team would have to produce creative content. I personally created a shoot for content and tried to create a COS aesthetic although in industry it would be of influence of COS and Mothers Muse magazine as their style is perfect for this campaign.

SOCIAL MEDIA

In 2019 social media is one of the most influential marketing strategies to target an audience. This was a must have, two social media strategies were in place using Facebook and Instagram to target two demographics.

PRINT MEDIA

Two print media strategies were also covered - a cover and spread in Vogue as well as adverts in other publications. Again, this is to make sure a variety of demographics are made aware of the new nursing wear collection by targeting the fashion conscious new mother by advertising in particular print media they have of interest.

PRE RELEASE LAUNCH

A sophisticated launch event at the Regent street store will provide an education talk on the Normalising breastfeeding organisation. This was so that the reason behind the collection was not forgotten and awareness can be spread further with influencers present which they can share on their personal social media. As well as an inclusive event which COS consumers can join.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING

The visual merchandising strategy will be on store and online. The collection will remain subtle in the store yet noted through the swing tags that it is nursing wear and kept separate so that it will not be confused with womenswear. However, I did not want the collection to stand out as if it was different in a negative way so the visual merchandising aesthetic will remain of COS brand identity. 144

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

- Design features may not be as easily adaptable as planned. - Manufacturing process may be longer than expected. - This could mess up the 18 month timeline as planned so making the manufacturing process a few months earlier than campaign creation would be beneficial.

CAMPAIGN CREATION

- Images could take longer to edit - If outdoor location is planned it could be postponed due to weather - Give plenty of time for images to be created and edited before release.

SOCIAL MEDIA

- Earned media might not be as frequent as expected, be prepared for this.

PRINT MEDIA

- As print media is dying be prepared for magazine sales to not be as much as forecasts predict - Instead focus more on social media strategies.

PRE RELEASE LAUNCH

- Tickets may not sell out - To make sure tickets sell push it in store with retail staff advertising it on the counters as well as a big social media strategy. - Also mention the launch in the Vogue print media spread.

RISK ASSESSMENT

VISUAL MERCHANDISING

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- The visual merchandising may be to plain and minimal. - The visual merchandising may blend in with normal womenswear. -If consumers get mixed up between the womenswear and nursing wear garments have a back up strategy in place to implment efficiently.

PRIMARY RESEARCH

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