West By Southwest Ernie Bulow

NIGHT LIFE AT CEREMONIAL

From the very first year of Ceremonial, housing has been a problem. In nineteen-twenty-two an average of twenty cars passed through Gallup on any given day. The famed Harvey House, El Navajo, would open the following year.

Nineteen-twenty two was also the year Gallup was under martial law because of the coal strikes. The El Rancho east of town wasn’t built until 1937, primarily as comfortable housing for visiting movie crews.

At that time Gallup’s population was tilted toward the unmarried men who worked the

THESE OVERSIZED WAGON WHEELS WERE SUPPPOSED TO MAKE IT THROUGH SAND DRIFTS BETTER THAN THE REGULAR WHEELS

THESE GUYS SINGING ENEMY WAY SONGS LOOK PRETTY HAPPY

Ernie Bulow

WEST BY SOUTHWEST

A LADY ROASTING CORN OVER THE COALS FRESHLY BUTCHERED MUTTON HANGS FROM THE LEAN-TO SUPPORT IN THIS DOMESTIC CAMP SCENE

A NAVAJO CAMP IN THE HILLS ABOVE GALLUP

mines or the railroad. Hundreds of Navajos, Zunis (it was a twoday trip from there), and a smattering of other tribes who arrived by wagon, camped in the canyon just north of the old Ceremonial grounds. When I came to Gallup in 1966 the drums and singing from the camp could still be heard, and dozens of fires flickered in the dark. Usually, the campers would start arriving two days before the actual event, so the camp was occupied for ten days. When I came to Gallup in the mid-sixties this was one big party most people would not miss. In those days, wagons were quite common in Gallup, and they made up a big chunk of the Ceremonial parade. As many as a hundred wagons would file through town. Newspaper articles--starting with the

FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED. THESE FOLKS GOT A GREAT CAMPING SPOT

THIS IS AN EXTREMELY RARE PHOTO OF NAVAJO WRESTLING--THE GREEKS WOULD NEVER RECOGNIZE IT

first Gathering -- made appeals to local citizens to take in visitors. It appears the response was good enough. Many of the people living near the arena grounds hosted the same visitors year after year. One group had the problem solved from the very beginning. Behind the old grandstand there was a canyon to the north and several nice hills sheltering the canyon. Late at night a passerby could see dozens of campfires. Stop to look and hear the sounds of drums and singing coming from several directions. I was told by a Navajo friend that he once witnessed a Navajo card game that started the Saturday before the action and lasted until the Sunday after. When one player dropped out, another would take his place. I don’t suppose it is surprising that the participants would find or make their own entertainment. I’ve been told the event was like a giant reunion where folks would visit and see old friends, and even relatives. There was plenty to do-- primarily contests. Archery, wrestling, and music was popular. At least once the visitors mounted a full Enemy Way (Squaw dance). And there was the day-to-day business—like food preparation. Summer with no refrigeration posed little problem. When a sheep was butchered it was shared around, each taking turns. The Ceremonial provided free water, free hay, and free food, though many preferred their own. The performers, on the other hand lined up for lunch. Gambling was always most popular and the games were of Native origin— no poker or twenty-one. I once tried to master a Navajo card game and I, personally, thought the rules were contradictory, to my student’s amusement. The Zunis have a game much like parcheesi with cups and stones. Games using found stones seems to be universal.