Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.170 by Gambero Rosso

A WELL-KEPT SECRET: ALTA LANGA VAL PUSTERIA

THE OTHER MONTALCINO

The Second Life of Masseto

Merlot and climate change: the challenge is here

The Second Life of Masseto

>Editorial

30. Gambero Rosso Roadshow: Live in São Paulo by Marco Sabellico

Return to classics by Lorenzo

Ruggeri

>Cover Story

Being Masseto by Lorenzo Ruggeri

>Wine

9. The second life of Merlot by Divina Vitale

14. The Bolgheri Revolution by Raffaele Mosca

16. The other Montalcino by Massimo Lanza and Divina Vitale

18. Off the radar little big stories by Carlotta Sanviti

22. A well-kept secret Alta Langa: the young Docg seeks identity and markets for quality Piedmontese bubbles by Marzio Taccetti

32. The 2025 Journey of Great Italian Wines Begins in Zurich! by Marco Sabellico

56. The Italian Wines guide returns to Munich by Marzio Taccetti

37. Role play. Pasta changes position on chefs’ menus, from first course to dessert or digestif by Antonella De Santis

46. Val Pusteria. Paradise at high altitudes by Valentina Marino

Editor Gambero Rosso S.p.A. via Ottavio Gasparri, 13/17 - 00152 Roma +3906551121 - fax 0655112260 gambero@gamberorosso.it

Director Lorenzo Ruggeri

Editor-in-chief

Stefano Polacchi and Sonia Ricci

Editorial team Clara Barra, Mara Nocilla, Marco Sabellico (correspondent)

Translation Eleonora Baldwin

Graphic Project

Tina Berenato - TB design

Layout Maria Victoria Santiago, Chiara Buosi

Contributors

Massimo Lanza, Valentina Marino, Raffaele Mosca, Marco Sabellico, Carlotta Sanviti, Marzio Taccetti, Divina Vitale

Photos and drawings Alessandro Naldi, AdobeStock

Administration via Ottavio Gasparri, 13/17 - 00152 Roma

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Return to classics

Lorenzo Ruggeri

No human interpretation, just the action of nature. We take our cue from the back label of an excellent Chianti Classico that refers to the philosophy of natural wine. In this case to its fable, to its empty rhetoric, which we wish to disassemble piece by piece: because it is an assumption that is a historical, factual fake. And again, how is it possible that wines from the natural world have lower and lower alcohols with increasingly torrid and hot vintages? How is it possible that wines are becoming lighter, more ethereal and subtle following the evolution of cuisine and a new way of drinking? With all the knowledge and technology at the disposal of wineries and professionals, is it still credible to relaunch the image of a foot-stomping wine left to its own devices? With increasingly difficult harvests, adverse weather events and less defined climatic seasons, human interpretation is essential. It has never been more so than it is today. The choice of harvest, maceration, yeasts, ageing, marketing: human intuition and knowledge is central. And it too is an integral part of the concept of terroir where human knowledge, of the place, enters overbearingly together with the characteristics of the soil, the vineyard and the variety. We really can’t take it any more with a fake storytelling that no longer exists, that denies the current oenological reality. It is enough to see how fortunately many so-called natural wines, we will return to the concept and the lack of definitions and protocols, have revised excesses of the palate and in many cases are much cleaner, sharper, less wild than a few years ago. We can clearly see a return to a classic, more balanced taste, from the sparkling wines that bring back the acidic excesses of a few years ago, to the use of wood that is increasingly calibrated, tailor-made and subtle. There are many points of contact with an oenology of the 1980s, almost a step backwards to move forward. It is the effect of man, learning from past mistakes, keeping up to date, studying the market and the seasons. Wine is the complex and marvellous result between man and nature; to deny the role of the former is to tell a marketing fable in its liquid state. And precisely because human knowledge increases, wines change, mirroring society’s changing tastes. This has always been the case, and here cultural and anthropological elements come into play. And fortunately, we shout it out loud: the wines have never been as good as they are today. The latest vintages of great wines are exceptional, we are not afraid to say that the latest vintage on the market of an iconic wine like Masseto, the 2021, is the best ever. The same can be said of Messorio. And even a variety such as Merlot that responds with difficulty to heat can give extraordinary results if reinterpreted wisely. Here is the redemption of human intervention.

Being Masseto

The making of a myth that always looks ahead: “Grip & push”, the distinctiveness of a style

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

How does one become Masseto? We search for answers on a cold London evening. «One speaks of tradition when one is afraid to look to the future».

Word of Lamberto Frescobaldi, 30th generation and 700 years of family winemaking history. We are in the rooms of the Raffles London Hotel at the Owo, an old wartime building a few metres from Admiral Nelson’s column in Trafalgar square. Churchill was at home here. A single table gathers a dozen international journalists and masters of wine, from Jancis Robinson to Patrick Schmitt. For a vertical tasting of Masseto they all find time. «We are not afraid of change. We ask ourselves every day: are we doing the right thing? Like when we planted the saplings for the Merlot, not exactly a Tuscan tradition», the Marquis continues. The iconic yellow labels stand in neat rows, the journey taking us back 30 years: from the last vintage on the market, 2021, to 1995. The “Masseto case” has no equal in the history of Italian wine: a

red wine that has conquered markets all over the world, often working as a forerunner. It has done more for Italian wine, with its image, than 30 years of Ice events. It has conveyed a different idea of Italian wine, with a positioning - over 1,000 euros per 2021 - that only the greats of Bordeaux and Burgundy have known. That said, Masseto is also not for everyone in terms of taste. There are those who find it excessively majestic and concentrated and those who exalt it a priori. In tasting, an incredibly recognisable identity and stylistic continuity emerge: solidity of structure is and solidity of image. «Masseto imitates no one: but you know how to put it in the geography of the world. Because it takes you right back there». There where there was once a brick factory, the Masseto hill, behind the Bolgherese road going up towards Castagneto Carducci. The land seems to rise just enough to give a peek at the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Blinding light, sea breeze and a great distinguishing feature: blue clay. Masses developed in the Pliocene era, daughters of a deep marine substrate. It was 1981 when oenologist André Tchelistcheff and Lodovico Antinori planted less than a hectare to experiment with the area’s first pure merlot. Today there are 7 hectares. Many names have accompanied the fortunes of this red wine, which began as a bet: Rolland, Schuster, Staderini, Gal, Duroux. The ingredients for success are many. «Not even relatives are allowed to buy more than three bottles a year». The details contribute to the creation of a myth, like the communication: essential, direct, studied. The emphasis is never on individuals, even if there are extraordinary talents in the house such as the young Gaia Cinnirella. Marco Bassinelli, production manager, is precise in his harvest references but he too prefers to let the

wine speak for itself. He tells us about the profound precision work in response to climate change, in the vineyard and in the cellar. The constancy of identity over time is clear even in less happy vintages. That “grip and push” always returns in the comments, it is a modulation of flavour: it enters soft and persuasive, compresses the palate with a portentous tannic pressure and then relaxes. Three distinct times. They fill the mouth, give the sensation of tasting a different wine. Masseto.

The great vertical of London

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

Yes, we can speak of Masseto 2.0. A light vintage with well-distributed heat peaks and long maturation. It is pure and fragrant on notes of pepper, cherry and orange peel. The mouth is a glove: creamy, velvety, with the aromas perfectly defined and in focus. The wood is tailored and unobtrusive, the finish relaxed and balsamic. It has great integrity and impressive expansion.

>Masseto 2016 95

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

Exuberant nose of liquorice, currants and tobacco. The mouth has the classic house stamp: soft entry, imposing tannic compression and then release of fruit and spices. The slightly bittersweet character is striking. The finish is punctual, continuous and of considerable drive between mint and cocoa tones, with a still pawing acidity. It has legs for at least another 20 years in the bottle.

>Masseto 2015 92

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

A sweet invitation of sour cherries and vanilla, with an intense fruitiness and fine character resulting from a vintage that insists on a soft and persuasive character in its aromas. The palate is dense, with a strong acceleration of tannins and roasted sensations, with a finish entrusted to tones of coffee and cocoa. It has two souls still searching for a complete connection, but it has depth and flavour.

>Masseto 2013

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

The fresh, light vintage is reflected in an exquisite balsamic character: mint and black tea on Mediterranean scrub and olive tapenade. Jancis Robinson offers a comparison with an oldfashioned Bordeaux style. The mouth is hard, dense, the colour even more compact than the three younger vintages. Austere finish of bitter cocoa and still balsamic returns. Great evolutionary potential.

>Masseto 2009 90

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

Three steps back. It gives the sensation of already being far ahead both in terms of definition and aromatic integrity. Cherries in spirit and chocolate, with an alcoholic rush that restricts the complexity of a wine that has substance and richness but not full balance. It reassembles on the close between spicy puffs and jammy sensations. The hot, dry vintage is noticeable..

>Masseto 2006 94

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

A vintage that pulls at the top: it is generous with fruit, spice, acidity and smoky notes. It opens on clove and black pepper tones; the palate is impressive for grip and drive: it seems to pop on the tongue. It has plenty of muscle and density, but at the same time it is dynamic and articulate, for a very well resolved and prolonged finish. The hard and dark side of Masseto.

>Masseto 2005

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

Medium weight. The cool, mild year, with a harvest close to October, brings us a Masseto of medium weight, graceful in its traits of juniper and underbrush. The palate veers towards cherry sensations and a more marked savouriness in a context of remarkable aromatic definition and a more essential character than its standards. The finish is harmonious, sharp and precise.

>Masseto 1999

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

A herbaceous dimension takes over that we had not noticed so far. Sensations of foliage and undergrowth, together with tones of cherries in spirit and coffee. The palate is still rigid, with an imposing tannic texture and hints of cigar and roots that develop a continuous and profiled gustatory texture. Dark finish of liquorice and black olives.

>Masseto 1996 94

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

So much fruit! The structure is medium, the intensity of the vintage enhances still very fragrant sensations of cherry and strawberry, enriched by tones of leather and green tea. In the mouth it relaxes with class and grace, less deep than other versions but still able to offer freshness and richness of flavour that are surprising to say the least given the year on the label. 29 years? Wow.

>Masseto 1995

Tenuta Masseto Bolgheri (LI)

Masseto squared. Colour is still bright and lively, inviting timbre of cherry and coffee; the acceleration on the palate is textbook: tannin but also fruit and flavour for a full and seductive texture. It is full, velvety, rich in references, alternating slightly bittersweet sensations with tones of lapsang tea and black truffle. It expands on several levels: mouthwatering and very long finish.

wine

The second life of Merlot

Despite the warmer climate and thousands of hectares lost, the international grape variety changes and conquers

by Divina Vitale

To understand the roots that led Tuscany to position itself as the cradle of excellence in Italy for Merlot, it is necessary to take two steps back. «The introduction of French grape varieties in Italy occurs in two historical moments,» attacks the living encyclopaedia of Italian wine, Attilio Scienza. «The first is an emulative phase of the nobility and upper middle class in the mid 19th century. International varieties began to be planted in response to a market that opened up to national and no longer regional borders». The second turning point came in the 1960s: «It coincided with the end of sharecropping and the abandonment of farms, leading to a new planting plan and fixed rules. In Tuscany they replant Sangiovese but also Cabernet and Merlot. The season of designations of origin begins». But it is not a happy moment for Tuscan wine, the American market is

collapsing to such an extent that some wineries have been forced to make major disposals, think of Antinori to the British or Castello di Brolio to the Australians. The Tuscan redemption started with the first Sutertuscans and not in the name of Sangiovese. On the one hand the international appeal, on the other the need to look further afield as a positioning. And we arrive at a series of brilliant intuitions that we recount with two memorable vertical wines of Masseto and Messorio and those dreams of glory at the turn of the 1980s and 1990s. Merlot today? It represents one of the greatest challenges to climate change: one of the grape varieties considered the most "docile", soft and pleasant is changing skin. By virtue of the climate, certainly, but also of current drinking trends. And experimentation is taking place, always starting in the countryside and ending up in the cellar. Earlier harvesting and less

>the challenge

Merlot is a real challenge, given the changing climate: it requires innovation and experimentation, both in the vineyard and in the cellar

roasting: these sound like mantras in the wineries working with Merlot. But it is not true that it reacts so badly to climate schizophrenia, or rather neither more nor less than other grape varieties. This is confirmed by authoritative voices. And while in Italy a certain alarmism continues and there are those who cry the "end" of a grape variety that is history, at the international level merlot resists and continues to snatch very high ratings and important prices.

9,000 hectares lost

Just look at the most important rankings, taking into account prestigious critics Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson. We go well beyond Masseto: from Redigaffi di Tua Rita moving to nearby Suvereto, another iconic Tuscan merlot, and again Messorio di casa Le Macchiole, returning to Bolgheri, to Chianti brackets with L'Apparita di Castello di

Ama and La Ricolma di San Giusto a Rentennano. And we complete the tour further south with Petrolo's Galatrona in Valdarno and Rocca di Frassinello's Baffonero in Maremma. These are all wines that have decidedly high export quotas.

On a national level? If we look at the overall figure in Italy, merlot had 28,209 hectares in 2005 and 18,840 hectares in 2022. A sharp decline that has fuelled production questions around the grape variety and scepticism about merlot as a wine for the future. And yet, we see a certain return in many Italian wine bars and restaurants, especially in the by-the-glass offer where there is an increasing search for pleasantness. The enemies are called drought and great heat, parameters that are not exactly optimal for harvesting a good merlot (like a sangiovese. That image of merlot as a docile variety, which can help all blends, playing in softness, colour, density, is selling less. Today, people are looking for something else. In some areas, it has been taken out of the picture, even in Bolgheri where in recent years cabernet franc has been favoured, which in any case has its own difficulties in ripening and must encounter optimal soils.

Change is underway. For those who have never followed fashions and advanced an important identity as Bolgheri has done, this is certainly not the time to hide their heads between their legs. But rather to play at relaunching as several companies are already doing. The year 2015, for example, at Le Macchiole, marked a turning point. We have moved towards a new production perspective that has changed drinkability a great deal, in the last few vintages, particularly with the 2020 and 2021, a wine that has become more agile and savoury, less impacted by wood while maintaining a Mediterranean soul and spirit. Never forgetting its provenance.

Since 1994, the year of its birth, it has gone from 300 to around 10,000 bottles. The years of experimentation have been long, tastes have changed and even Messorio has been able to accept the challenge and change its

skin. «Merlot has to be interpreted and has to evolve, you cannot stay still» Luca Rettondini, Le Macchiole's historic oenologist, tells us. It matures early of course, but it can be multitasking. For medium wines it is fundamental to include in blends, while for important wines such as Messorio it must be followed very closely, it must be cultivated well, with great attention to the foliage: the result is glyceric, structured reds of great pleasantness, especially in Tuscany. If matured well, it does not give vegetal hints compared to cabernet, for example, and ageing in wood always keeps the tannic profile high, always paying attention to oxidation and maturation. «One answer is to carry out scalar harvests,» Luca continues, «bringing in fresher grapes first and then riper grapes. It is a multipurpose vine that must be grown well in the vineyard and in the cellar, being careful about oxygen and not going too far into extraction. In the end, it is one of the most appreciated vines in the world and therefore this should never be underestimated or forgotten. It remains one of the great wines of the world».

Merlot bunch selection and wine testing

Photos are by Tenuta Masseto

«Merlot has a future»

And even someone who knows a lot about merlot like Marco Balsimelli, director and oenologist of Ornellaia and Masseto, is convinced that there is a future for merlot. «I would repeat merlot without a doubt,» he explains, «in some areas. If I have to admit it, it is less problematic than Cabernet franc. I have tasted exceptional merlot in Bordeaux coming out of very hot vintages and also in Bolgheri: with acidity, data in hand, comforting. Then, it is clear: change needs preventive care and so off to the vineyard, start with the very important rootstocks for slower ripening. You have to restore vigour to the plants. And again reduction of new wood or better less invasive toasting. It is not a revolution, but a transition phase». Giving impetus to these statements are our two vertical tastings in which the latest vintage on the market, 2021, of Masseto and Messorio stands out.

SOL2EXPO. The entire olive oil supply chain gathers in Verona

From March 2 to 4, 2025, the world of olive oil and vegetable oils will meet in Verona at SOL2EXPO, the new format of Veronafiere’s historic event, SOL (Salone Internazionale dell’Olio d’Oliva), which in its 28 editions has established itself as a global benchmark for the olive oil industry.

This “squared” edition is the natural evolution of a fair that broadens its horizons: the focus is no longer just on the product, but embraces the most advanced processing technologies, derivative products, and cosmetics, with a focus on sustainability and the circular economy. Among the new features of 2025 are the four thematic routes designed to offer buyers and enthusiasts an integrated visitor experience, discovering national and international oils, olives, pickles and pates, the most innovative technologies, the latest trends in cosmetics and oil tourism.

SOL2EXPO is the must-attend event for producers, buyers and experts to explore the future of

From March 2 to 4, Sol International Olive Oil Show puts on a new face, after 28 years as the benchmark for the entire world of vegetable and extra virgin oils

the sector, an agora for comparing disciplines and markets, with workshops, conferences and content for updating and exchanging knowledge, cooking shows, guided tastings, and food pairing.

The special opening to the public on Sunday, March 2, gives all interested parties and enthusiasts the opportunity to find out more about this world and also to purchase the products on display.

SOL2EXPO

Veronafiere

Verona

viale del lavoro, 8

sol2expo.com

$fl@sol2expo

The Bolgheri Revolution

Messorio makes Merlot speak a Mediterranean language far from the stereotypes of the grape variety

by Raffaele Mosca

The first turning point came with Paleo, Tuscany's first Cabernet Franc. But it is actually Messorio, today, the wine that most reflects the evolution (and revolution, for Bolgheri) of the Macchiole style: not only because of its positioning in the Olympus of Italian fine wines, but also because it comes from a varietal that suffers both the consequences of climate change and those of taste evolution. The only pure Merlot of reference in the Bolgheri area along with Masseto, it has never been one of those stereotypical wines concentrated to the limit of hypertrophic and which were so successful at one time but then went completely out of fashion. The last two vintages of Messorio, then, mark a change of pace and highlight a more territorial and less varietal identity than in the past. What has changed is already evident from the data sheets: starting in 2020 the usual new barriques have been joined by a small percentage of Tava amphorae and truncated cone vats. But the revolution, Elia and Cinzia

tell us, is much more complex. «It all starts in the vineyard: Merlot suffers a lot from soil compaction,» Elia explains, «So, to avoid it, we gave up digging tractors for high-density vines: we bought some very small ones that can go between the rows. Cracking the soil is very important to make it breathe, just as essential is green manure: we select specific botanical species that ensure maximum aeration.» Heat and drought lead to increasingly early harvests and it becomes essential to manage the harvests well: «Merlot ripens early and it is essential to make several passes between the rows to have balance: the first one happens as early as the end of August and allows high acidity; the others a few weeks later to have concentration and aromatic intensity.» The plots that make up Messorio for now are two, but in the future grapes from other vineyards that are a bit higher above sea level and can offer help in times of global warming could also be used. In these new plantings, the Campolmi's are experimenting with the alberello system, a training system that is typical throughout the Mediterranean basin and allows the grapes to be protected from the scorching sun. As for the work in the cellar, Rettondini is keen to specify that the word amphora is generic and that those at Tava, a winery in the Trentino region, are very special: «They are made of ceramic and not terracotta. They have a porosity similar to that of a barrique, but they do not yield aromas. Since 2020 we have started using them for about 7 percent of the mass and the percentage will gradually grow in the coming years.» In addition to aging, macerations also make a difference, which on Merlot for Messorio can

reach up to 40 days. The goal is to have a very delicate extraction: almost an infusion. One only has to put one's nose into the youngest of the seven vintages, the 2021, to see that Messorio has gone beyond the usual pattern of Supertuscans: a riot of Mediterraneanness without a trace of sweetness. The paradox is that Merlot has a reputation for being a grape that gives jammy, powerful but tawdry wines, while instead if well managed it almost plays with Pinot Noir in terms of delicacy of texture, although the expression of the fruit is completely different.

Messorio in 7 vintages

>Messorio

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

Compact but not impenetrable, bewitching nose: finely Mediterranean, with tones of violet, juniper, eucalyptus and scrub; sweet - but whole - fruit in the background. Very fresh, almost scratchy, the acidity is reminiscent of that of the best Sangiovese, but the soft, almost imperceptible tannins immediately make Merlot. In closing, the balsamic notes of the nose return: complexity and harmony.

>Messorio 2020

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

We find this 2020 slightly less precise than the 2021, with some traces of wilting flowers, black plum and cedar wood, garriga in the background. The tannin is a bit more incisive and the acidity more garrulous. It is less harmonious, but still longilinear and elegant, suave with eucalyptus and oriental spices in the very long finish.

90

>Messorio 2017

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

Diametrically opposed to the 2018 vintage: aromas of very ripe plums, leather, nutty chocolate and dark spices evoke the vintage, which was very hot. The sip is full, compact, the tannins more rustic and the acidity modest. This 2017 does not blur into overkill, but it is less fine than the other younger wines.

Beyond Paleo an amazing white

>Messoro 2019

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

Dark, at times stark, with black fruit typical of the vintage interwoven with licorice, lavender, soft toastiness and a hint of underbrush. Powerful and fruit-laden, yet composed and endowed with enough acidity to ward off heaviness. Saline and chocolatey returns alternate in a finish somewhere between the subtlety of 20' and 21' and the richness of other wines in the battery.

93

>Mesorio 2018

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

The complex vintage has sculpted an anomalous profile: peppery and barely vegetal, all played on tones of roots, black tea and humus that almost wink at territories further north of Bolgheri. Lean, sleek, closer to younger wines than to the robust 2019, with a savory, herbal finish: not extraordinarily deep, but very toned.

>Messorio 2016

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

Explosive, disruptive with tones of plum, menthol and milk chocolate and veers into more decadent nuances of truffle and foie gras. Decidedly baroque: very full, but with impeccable tannins and more acidity than the 2017 that calibrates the almost opulent center of the mouth and lends support to the intense finish. This is the most faithful to the classic great Tuscan Merlots.

93

>Messorio 2015

Le Macchiole

Bolgheri (LI)

Unexpectedly more restrained and delicate than the '16. Mentholated and violet tones precede red fruit in compote, some earthy ideas and a hint of tapenade. Less complex, but still well set, soft tannins caress the fruit and render a sense of balance, returns consistent with the nose define the precise finish with good length.

Le Macchiole's range is rounded out by three other reds: Paleo, or Italy's most important Cabernet Franc; Scrio, pure Syrah; and a simple Bolgheri Rosso that, in terms of precision and drinking dynamics, could be the model to follow for a category-that of entrylevel wines from the Tuscan coastthat is currently a hodgepodge of somewhat sloppy labels. Then there is Paleo Bianco, a wine that is almost never talked about, partly because there are only 6,000 bottles and very few are seen around. Yet, even on this front, the winery manages to give us nice surprises: served as an aperitif, the 2022 breaks away from the stateless and ultra-technical style of so many Bolgheri whites and reveals a pungent profile of lemon zest and dehydrated herbs, with a very intense background of iodine; the sip is coherent, brackish in its retro-olfactory references, without excess softness and with a very measured caloric perception. The marine imprint is such as to make us think of the presence of a share of Vermentino, but in reality the wine contains only Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which, managed in the right way, manage to capture the coastal identity on par with the native grapes, if not better.

The other Montalcino

At Benvenuto Brunello we focused on lesser-known producers among surprises and solid bets

by Massimo Lanza and Divina Vitale

Lots of flower and no little elegance. In order to understand the 2020 vintage, we must immerse ourselves in the climatic conditions that allowed for a regular ripening process. The season began without winter frost and the spring was dry, favouring regular plant development. June brought good rainfall, creating a water balance that prepared the plants for the summer heat. Although July was dry, the rainfall in June and August allowed the grapes to ripen evenly. Only two heat waves occurred during the summer, one between July and August and one in the second half of August. Both waves were short and moderate, limiting the risk of water stress for the plants and helping to preserve the aromatic profile of the wine. Overall, the 2020 vintage showed thermal stability and a normal accumulation of heat hours, with a level of thermal stress below the historical average, indicating an ideal ripening of Sangiovese. Rainfall was well distributed throughout the season, with a total of 543 mm that helped maintain the plants’ water balance. The climatic analysis also showed that the areas at higher altitudes enjoyed thermal mitigation that helped avoid excessive stress on the plants. The result is a vintage of balance, very approachable and with the most contemporary character of recent years. With great aromas that focus on ripe and lively small fruits, floral nuances and beautiful clarity and brightness in the glasses.

The wines generally show a wellintegrated balance of refreshing acidity, succulent tannins and alcoholic warmth. Some samples, as is to be expected given the growing number of producers present - applause is due to the return of wineries that had not presented samples for years - show a more evident maturity and a greater presence of alcohol, confirming however a profile of a warmer vintage. Finally, some stylistic differences should be noted, probably influenced by the location of the vineyard and the time of harvest, with some wines displaying delicate, crisp aromas and finesse, while others show a bolder, more voluminous and concentrated style. This

indicates a versatile vintage, showing both finesse and power across different terroirs and oenological approaches. The characterisation of the slopes on which the Brunellos grow and mature is becoming increasingly evident, with a fine page being written on the northern side of Montosoli, a side that increasingly reinforces wines of elegance, freshness and recognisability. Montalcino, as far as the production of quality wine is concerned, is almost unique in Italy. Suffice it to think that in only 310 square kilometres of municipal territory there are no less than 2100 hectares destined to the production of Brunello and 510 to Rosso di Montalcino, to which if we add those of the other denominations such as Sant’Antimo, Moscadello and IGT we arrive at over 3500 hectares, practically the same as the entire surface area of vines in Basilicata, to give an example. But consider also that when the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino was founded in 1967, there were only 25 founding members and the hectares under Brunello vines did not reach 100. Now there are 219 members of the Consorzio for a production that in 2022 will reach almost 4 million bottles of Rosso and 9.8 of Brunello. This edition of Benvenuto Brunello also marked

the will of the producers, in place for years now, to definitively free Rosso di Montalcino from its older brother, wrongly considered for years as a product not of high quality, hence also the decision to increase by 15% the surface area dedicated to the “younger” brother. The decision to focus, also with dedicated events, on Rosso di Montalcino has already obtained its first results: Rosso di Montalcino obtained from single vineyard or vineyard selections are beginning to be seen on the shelves of wine shops, but also with ageing that is longer than the two years required by the regulations. In short, ways are being studied to make this wine a product with its own image and quality different from what has been perceived so far. We therefore hope never again to hear the phrase, which in truth we do not like so much, ‘it seems like a small Brunello’ in front of an excellent Rosso di Montalcino, the path is long but the foundations seem well built. As far as our tastings are concerned, we have deliberately selected wines, with rare exceptions, from small, often family-run estates, a business fabric that may be far from the international media spotlight but which is the authentically peasant soul of this territory.

Off the radar little big stories

by Carlotta Sanviti

Montalcino = Brunello. But it was not always so. There is a lesser known side to this place, made up of biodiversity, dedication and an authentic connection to the land. While the wine scene has transformed, with more than 250 producers and an increasingly globalised market, another Montalcino survives, where time seems to have stood still. This Tuscan hill is home to an extraordinary biodiversity: only 15% of the land is cultivated with vineyards, while woods, olive groves and other crops coexist in a rare balance. In the subsoil, clays, marine limestones, alluvial soils and volcanic rocks from Monte Amiata give Sangiovese Grosso unique nuances. But behind the postcard image hides a complex world: that of small producers, far removed from the big names and the logic of the market. It

was during a Triple A event that we discovered the winery of Leonardo Seragnoli, actor and director, who with his Ser'Enzo project has chosen to embrace the complexity of nature. In a tiny hamlet with little more than two inhabitants, in Lucignano d'Asso, in the midst of a varied agricultural landscape, his company Borgo d'Asso cultivates cereals, legumes and vines. Monica, the gutsy and well-prepared oenologist, Valentina, the winery manager, and young Francesca and Mattia are the mind and hands of this reality (in the photo the staff of the young winery). Three labels tell their philosophy: the red CCC (cabernet franc, sauvignon and carménère), the white TRE (trebbiano toscano) and the Sangiovese SA. Each bottle reflects Seragnoli's vision, influenced by his meeting with Luca Gargano, a pioneer

of natural wine. It was on the eastern side, however, that Francesco Illy, photographer and naturalist, discovered Montalcino in the 1980s and was thunderstruck. He founded Podere Le Ripi, now a 31-hectare biodynamic estate: from traditional plantings he switched to the Bonsai vineyard, the densest in the world with 62,500 vines per hectare. ‘The density forces the roots to seek sustenance deep inside, in the heart of the earth,’ explain the young guys who take care of the estate. In the cellar, work is slow and respectful: wooden vats, long ageing and cement to harmonise. From Brunello to Rosso, each wine restores Sangiovese's elegance and keeps the dialogue between vine and terroir alive. But it is the encounter with Florio Guerrini that is the most intense and evocative. Arriving at his farmhouse, Paradiso di Manfredi, means walking along a winding road between empty demijohns and a driveway leading to a long white tablecloth that descends from a wooden table carefully laid by his daughter Gioia. The winery - just 3½ hectares on the northeast side - is run entirely by Florio, a former mathematics professor, and his daughters Silvia and Gioia. He is not the classic winemaker: fate brought him here when his father-in-law Manfredi Martini fell ill, leaving him to continue working in the fields. The wine then became a tradition handed down orally. He is a man of great rigour and rare composure, Florio; when he tastes his wines he seems shy, he blushes, he savours them with great sensitivity. And we with him. Fermentation takes place in vitrified cement vats, while ageing takes place in large Slavonian oak casks: 13-14 months for the Rosso di Montalcino, 36 for the Brunello and 48 for the Riserva. Each bottle is a pure expression of terroir: the mineral salts of the soil soften the tannins, giving wines that are deep yet lively, rich in fruit and surprisingly dynamic. «Our cellar is modest,» admits Florio, but his Sangiovese wines remain unforgettable. No tricks, therefore, but many secrets. The man follows and accompanies the wine, the rest is done by the land.

Rosso The new course

>Rosso di Montalcino Vigna Spuntali 2021

Val di Suga

In spite of its elegance, we cannot define Rosso Vigna Spuntali ‘21 as a small Brunello, a definition that would horrify us. Instead, it is an excellent Sangiovese, graceful and with great personality, with a respectable bouquet that opens on balsamic tones, red fruits and flowers and scrub, hints of roasting and spices. In the mouth, it is juicy, rich in velvety tannins and has a nice finish with a balsamic return.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2023

Carpineto

This winery owns one of the highest vineyards in Montalcino at an altitude of over 500 metres. We liked the Rosso ‘22 above all for its refined and territorial olfactory expression of red berries, blueberries, tobacco, underbrush and spices. Fresh and enveloping on the palate, driven by a vital acid current and supported by fine tannins, the finish is long and enriched by a balsamic whiff.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Cava d’Onice

From the historic Colombaio estate, located at the foot of Montalcino, comes the Rosso ‘22 with its generous traits and characterised by a full, flavoursome mouthfeel. With floral tints of beautiful elegance, this wine has an excellent tannic texture and surprising persistence. Nice body and good decision for a red

>Rosso di Montalcino 2023

Pietroso

To the west of the village of Montalcino lies this family-run winery that produces a Rosso capable of making its mark in the 2023 vintage.

Clear and crisp on the nose, brilliant in colour, it opens fresh in the mouth and flows with determination: still a little nervous at times but with a secure and contrasting development. Lovely acidity, beautiful tannic texture.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Chiusa Grossa

The micro-farm that Bruno Biscotto runs with his daughters Emanuela and Elisa, has 2 hectares of vineyards south of the Montalcino hill along the Sesta road. The Rosso ‘22 has a dense, multifaceted nose that smells of black fruits, herbs, violets, liquorice and spices. In the mouth the sweet, ripe fruit finds dynamism and freshness in the marked acidity and the return of herbaceous notes, the finish is of good length.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Lisini

This historic winery boasts some twenty hectares of vineyards in one of the most renowned micro-zones of Montalcino between Sesta and Sant’Angelo in Colle in the southern quadrant of the denomination. Involving is the nose with fruity tones on a fine background of Mediterranean scrub, softened by floral and spicy notes. Savoury and full-bodied on the palate with well-balanced tannins and a finish of fine aromatic persistence.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2023

Patrizia Cencioni

Patrizia Cencioni worked in the family business until 1989 when, at a very young age, she finally realised her dream by opening her own winery. A wine of jovial territoriality, Rosso ‘22’s nose is dominated by fruit, enriched by herbaceous notes of Mediterranean scrub, pepper and red citrus fruits. The taste is complete, with tannins that are still free-range and counterbalance the juicy fruit.

>Rosso di Montalcino 2021

Terre Nere

Of Sicilian origin, Pasquale Vallone Campigli, fascinated by the beauty of Montalcino where he had moved for work, decided to stay and set up this winery run today by his children Francesca and Federico. Their Rosso ‘21 is pleasantly fruity but not banal, also enriched by floral and balsamic notes, consistent with a fresh and tapered mouth that closes with a light savoury note.

Brunello 2020 Balance and finesse

>Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli 2020

Le Ragnaie

Riccardo Campinoti’s estate hits the mark with all the 2020 Brunello crus from the micro hectares it owns around the denomination. Casanovina Montosoli stands out for its grace, agility and tension. It is very delicate and elegant on the palate and closes with a savoury tannin that surprises with its juiciness. A wine that has character to spare and knows how to maintain rhythm and agility.

>Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Giuseppe Gorelli

In 2018, Gorelli decided to put his long experience as a winemaker into his own winery with 6 hectares of vines. His Brunello ‘20 opens on notes of red fruits, liquorice and bush, then to give complexity sorb, blood orange, pepper and mineral notes. Ripe and fresh at the same time, the sip shines for the fine grain of the tannins and the remarkable aromatic persistence.

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>Brunello di Montalcino

Fattoria del Pino

2020

This young winery was founded in 2000 and is run with passion by Jessica Pellegrini in the Montosoli area. The Brunello 2020 peeps out at first impact with black-sided tints but then quickly changes register and resolves itself with a graceful, caressing sip with a very open, floral character. It is endowed with particular clarity and sharpness. Very delicate and with beautiful personality

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>Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Sesta di Sopra

Lovely stuff and personality for the Brunello from this small winery with 4 hectares under vine south of Montalcino. Intriguing on the nose, it opens with hints of sour cherry, tobacco and nutmeg and more nuanced hints of mint and wild flowers. The taut, elegant and well-articulated sip invites you to drink it thanks to the agile tannic progression and excellent acidic freshness for a finish of good length reminiscent of cinchona.

>Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Castello Tricerchi AD1441

To the north of the denomination, the Squarcia family - with the young and ambitious Tommaso - has dedicated itself to the production of a Brunello di Montalcino focusing on finesse and character. The millesino 2020 opens with a beautiful saltiness, delicate, slender but at the same time tasty; it has excellent momentum and a convincing overall dimension.

>Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli 2020 93

Cortonesi

The Cortonesi brothers have 8 hectares of vines between the north side at La Mannella, where the winery is also located, and the south-east side with Poggiarelli. Complex and crisp, the Poggiarelli ‘20 offers the nose with fresh notes of aromatic herbs, blackberries and blueberries, violets, but also incense and sweet spices. Solid and fleshy, the sip is in great harmony between fruit and acidity and has a dense but very fine tannic texture.

>Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum 2020 93

San Polino

Katia Nussbaum’s winery, 9 hectares of vineyards, 4 of which are planted with Brunello (all biodynamically), is located on the northern slope of Montalcino. The Helichrysum ‘20 is fine and persistent on the nose, with hints of blackberries and blueberries, peony, iron mineral notes, but also Mediterranean scrub and spices. Firm and firm, the palate is savoury, with tannins well integrated with the fruit and excellent persistence.

>Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Collemattoni

A winery with vineyards facing south-southwest of Montalcino, it presents a very pulpy Sangiovese with an inviting bouquet of small dark fruit, wild herbs and violets. The mouth is rich, lively and enveloping with a nice density. A wine with great flavour impact and well-integrated tannin

Brunello 8 shades of Riserva

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019 95

Fattoi

A classic interpretation of the Riserva that Fattoi offers us: this wine inebriates with beautiful aromas of rose, violet and lily of the valley. Overall, it is complex and of excellent workmanship and general balance: the sip is slender, the mouth is very vigorous and always maintains tension. The finish is beautiful: juicy and full of energy.

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci 2019 95

Tassi

Fabio Tassi’s Brunello Riserva Franci ‘19 is very convincing, a wine with a refined olfactory profile that ranges from delicate tones of wild flowers and yellow spices to more decisive hints of red fruits, underbrush, cinchona and tobacco. Rich but slender on the palate, where the excellent balance between acidity and tannins well supports the richness of the fruit, further refined in the long finish by a fresh balsamic return.

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019

Cupano

A stony hillside hosts the 7 hectares of biodynamic vineyard of this small winery in Centine di Camigliano. In the winery’s style, the Riserva ‘19 is rich and elegant, with blackberry and plum tones on the nose, along with floral tones, dark citrus, underbrush and spices from well-dosed oak. The full, fruity palate is lightened by good acidity and dense, juicy tannins, and the finish is long and satisfying.

>Brunello di Montalcino

Lupi & Sirene Riserva 2019

Podere le Ripi

An Montalcino enclave entirely dedicated to biodynamics, that of Podere Le Ripi in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, led by a group of innovators headed by Francesco Illy (see the article on page 42 in the service dedicated to Montalcino). This Riserva is a wine of express austerity, with a very elegant dress and magical persistence on the palate.

>Brunello di Montalcino

Vigna Montosoli Riserva 2019

Casanuova delle Cerbaie

From an area among the most vocated to the limelight in recent years comes this Sangiovese that tells its story in fullness: with a sip rich in matter and juiciness. This Riserva, which enters with a beautiful distension on the palate, immediately becomes vibrant and decisive. It has a long persistence and a nice grip: in a sentence, it offers progression and vivacity.

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019 92

Pian delle Querci

A family-run winery on the north-eastern slope that delivers an excellent interpretation in this Riserva, which retains a good elasticity and dimension on the palate. It grips, captivates and then releases great pleasantness. Almost played in lightness compared to the power of the 2019 vintage, it displays traits of finesse and lovely tannin.

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019

Uccelliera

A winery located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate overlooking Monte Amiata, the Riserva 2019 is a straightforward wine with good movement on the palate. Full of fruit and enveloping, it has an accommodating vein with nuances of sweet fruit that make the tasting very pleasant without ever losing its bite.

>Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019 90

Paradiso di Cacuci

This estate, which has been in existence since 1964, is located on the northwest side of Montalcino. A very concentrated Brunello with a sweet fruit impact that then resolves with a convincing progression and drive on the palate that displays good character and commendable rhythm. To which is added a discreet juice that makes for a very happy sip and a savoury finish.

A well-kept secret

Alta Langa: the young Docg seeks identity and markets for quality Piedmontese bubbles

by Marzio Taccetti

A recent history built on a much more distant track. Alta Langa is barely 20 years old as an appellation, yet it insists on those hills between the provinces of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria that experienced the first ever trials of the Italian Metodo Classico. As well as in terms of numbers, its development sees an identity yet to be fully moulded. 'Everything is still to be built. We are at the beginning,' began Mariacristina Castelletta, President of the Consorzio Alta Langa. We have been to the area for a detailed overview: the average quality of the products is of a good level, even if there is still a lack of a general tone to give this sparkling wine a univocal and shared identity.

Iron-clad regulations

«There is great potential to be expressed in these areas. The important thing is that companies are willing to believe in and invest in this denomination. We must work on increasing stylistic uniformity and increasing quality. It is important to make ourselves known and then raise our game more and more,» says Alberto Cane of the Marcalberto company. An appellation that stands out for its rigid approach, with stakes planted deep in the text of the specification. «It stands out from the other benchmark Italian Metodo Classico wines - Franciacorta, Oltrepò and Trentodoc - thanks to the production regulations and partly also to the orientation of many producers towards pas dosé and extra brut styles. The wines have a dry, decisive character, which can find acceptance in foreign markets, although in my opinion the sometimes austere tones could be a limitation,» says Richard Baudains editor of Decanter.

The minimum ageing on the lees is a good 30 months, while for Champagne - just to mention a reference product for quality bubbles - the time is "only" 15 months. Territory and vintage, then, are closely linked by the impossibility of producing Alta Langa "sans année": here the emphasis is on the vintage. Finally, there is the indication of the minimum altitude limit for the cultivation

of the vineyards: 250 metres above sea level. «The average altitude of the vineyards is 450 metres. The highest point is close to 900,» explains agronomist Edmondo Bonelli. For the grape varieties, the focus is on pinot noir and chardonnay, which make up 90 to 100 per cent of the sparkling wine.

«I find that such rigid specifications serve to cut out those wineries that do not believe in them or just want to complete their range with a bubbly» says Umberto Bera from his cellar in Neviglie. However, there is no lack of perplexity about these considerations; Alberto Cane expresses them: «In champagne, a vintage is seen as an elite product of that specific vintage. In the Alta Langa, where all the labels are vintage wines, it is difficult to communicate high-end and low-end products. We have adapted to the rules, but continue to make selections that may not fit into the appellation to distinguish products».

The idea of Alta Langa

The denomination is young, and its still developing dimension is tangible. The perimeter limits are marked by the specifications and the idea of a common identity dimension is slowly making its way among producers. On identity, however, there is still some way to go. Not that there is one missing, but it is time to turn the lens to better focus on several elements: aspire to greater uniformity of production to make the denomination recognisable and easily identifiable, without however renouncing the facets given by the different soils and vineyards. «Identity points are more evident in those wineries that have been making sparkling wine for several years, a little less so in the

The Cane family in the cellar of Santo Stefano Belbo, Marcalberto (opening pupitres)

new ones that have recently entered into this production. «This is a normal phenomenon in a denomination that is just taking shape, but I hope that this trait will fade away more and more, flanked by a numerically higher production of bottles,» emphasises Alberto Cane. «For me - explains the owner of Marcalberto- the future of Alta Langa is that of a niche denomination: more based on values than on large numbers. For now, I see the diversity of taste as an added value linked to the diversity of the territory. We must give priority to quality and then think about building an "idea of homogeneity"».

View from abroad

An important consideration, Cane's, especially when referring to an international audience or dimension. «If you talk about Italian sparkling wines in the UK, everyone knows Prosecco. Alta Langa, for now, remains a well-kept secret and deserves more recognition. Increasing its brand awareness requires thorough communication, a coherent and wellcoordinated marketing strategy aimed at its target segments,» says Will

Wong, critic and photographer. He is echoed by journalist Yasuyuki Ukita: «In Japan, the spread of Alta Langa is limited compared to Champagne, Cava, Prosecco or Franciacorta. I was, however, strongly impressed by its high quality. Depending on how it is promoted, I think it has a good chance of becoming the "next Champagne" in the Japanese market». Ideas also shared by Canadian Master of Wine Jacqueline Cole Blisson: «The opportunities for international recognition and growth are certainly there. My only doubt is about the prevalence of zero dosage wines. Perhaps as the wines mature and become more concentrated, this style will work better, but some wines could benefit from a few grams of dosage (going to extra-brut) to balance the acidity and prevent the finish from being too austere. Zéro Dosage wines are very fashionable for sommeliers, but I think we have to keep the end consumer in mind: I suspect they are not as big a fan of this dry style as we are in the trade. Let's think about it!». Touching on the production offerings of many consortium member wineries, there is no shortage of surprises at

the tasting level (see the reviews on the following pages): in the labels that place in the top positions of the rating we find an intriguing complexity given by the multifaceted aromatic themes ranging from brioche and hazelnut to ripe, yet intact fruit that retains great fragrance and texture. These are combined with a good average quality, with a clear and vertical acidity accompanied by a mineral and "rocky" component as a common denominator. The market, then, demands much more restrained dosages and the denomination responds well in this with versions that largely range from pas dosé to brut. More than a gamble, Alta Langa is a new idea: the prospect of a denomination that is sewing itself onto a territory that has all the right cards to emerge in sparkling wine production.

The Bera family in the cellar of Neviglie (Cuneo)

Styles and territories, Alta Langa in search of identity

Low dosages and zero added sugars, long ageing, reserves and bubbles with an austere character, daughters of a very strict specification, prevail

by Marzio Taccetti

>Alta Langa

Pas Dosé

Blanc de Blancs ’20

Marcalberto

St. Stefano Belbo (CN)

We arrive at the kaleidoscopic and electric Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosè ‘20. A sparkling wine made solely from chardonnay grapes that is taut, juicy and persistent. The elegance on the nose and palate is striking, with notes of citrus accompanying sensations of white flowers, toasted nuances and a mineral finish. A true champion of the type. 35

>Alta Langa

Blanc de Blancs

Pas Dosé Sessantacinquemesi Ris. ’16

Ettore Germano

Serralunga d’Alba (CN)

Crisp, vital and well structured. The fine perlage brings out all the finesse of pure chardonnay, with aromas ranging from white fruit to bread crust, for a rich finish of great personality and length in which there are aromas of candied pineapple, glazed almonds and a vibrant freshness. 55

>Alta Langa

Pas Dosé Zero

Enrico Serafino Canale (CN)

The first Alta Langa Pas Dosé produced, it stays a good 60 months on the lees. Pinot Noir grapes from vineyards at an altitude of 500 metres are used for this label. The nose offers hints of aromatic herbs, raspberry and currant. An intense and intriguing nose that combines with a mouthfeel of good substance and depth. 45

>Alta Langa Bera Brut ‘19

Bera Neviglie (CN)

A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, this Metodo Classico is aged on the lees for approximately 48 months. The nose recalls sensations of white flowers and lemon peel enriched by notes of bread crust and fresh butter. The palate has good grit and balance with a convincing finish and good length. 25

>Alta Langa Brut

Blanc de Blancs ’20

Colombo Bubbio (AT)

Only chardonnay grapes. On the nose, notes of pastry and melted butter are clear, from which floral and white peach sensations emerge. The palate is just as generous and consistent, but with an acidic shoulder providing contrast and lightness. It closes on the notes perceived on the nose in a long, mouth-watering wake. 30 30

>Alta Langa Extra Brut ’20

Marziano Abbona Dogliani (CN)

After maturing in the bottle for 48 months and dégorgement, the bottle is filled without the addition of liquer but only with the wine itself. The nose is intense: acacia and linden blossom coming off a sensation of bread crust, yeast, and pastry. On the palate it is buttery, rich, with a more savoury finish in which clear toasted notes emerge.

>Alta Langa Brut ‘20

Sara Vezza Monforte d’Alba (CN)

White flowers, fresh butter, peach and menthol notes. The olfactory profile plays on delicate and balsamic notes while the sip remains compact, cohesive and of good length, made vivid by a pleasant freshness that lends dynamism and vivacity. The finish flanks citrus notes with balsamic returns and a pleasant sapid vein. 28

>Alta Langa Brut Giulio I ‘18

Tosti1820

Canelli (AT)

A soliloquy of pinot noir that is aged for 5 months “sur lattes” and a further 48 months in the bottle. The olfactory register moves on notes of orange, dried fruit, and delicate sensations of candied ginger. Taut and well-structured, notes of dried fruit emerge on the palate and a finish that veers towards the savoury. 28

>Alta Langa

Pas Dosé ’19

Pasquale Pelissero Neive (CN)

The pinot nero and chardonnay in this blend are cultivated at an altitude of 400 metres and rest on marly limestone soil. The sip has good tension, enriched by a sensation of green pepper and a structure that gives a dense palate. The nose plays on notes of dried fruit, ripe fruit, and an almost smoky finish with delicate coffee nuances. 25

>Alta Langa Extra Brut ‘20

La Fusina Dogliani (CN)

The nose slowly indulges. White flowers, tobacco peach flesh, red apple and herbs together with sensations of bread crust emerge from the glass. The sip has backbone with well-defined fruit. It closes on citrus and balsamic notes, in which mint and lemon peel emerge. 35

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>Alta Langa Brut La Sorgente ’20

Roberto Garbarino Neviglie (CN)

The balsamic notes of mint are accompanied by those of peach and white flowers and more subtle hints of red fruits. The acidity in the mouth is pronounced, vertical, outlining a young and bubbly wine. It has good coherence between nose and mouth, and a finish that outlines a pleasant mineral vein. Best left in the cellar for a few years. 30

>Alta Langa

Pas Dosé Orme ’20

Pianbello Loazzolo (AT)

The Pinot Nero that gives life to this sparkling wine is rooted in a limestone-sandy soil rich in silt. Pink grapefruit, toasted hazelnut and delicate buttery sensations anticipate a palate of good progression and tension. The palate has juice and plays all on citrus and mineral references that amalgamate into a single final trail. 25

>Alta Langa Pas Dosé 90 Mesi Ris. ’14

Daffara & Grasso Calosso (AT)

The olfactory register is reminiscent of dried orange and hazelnut sensations that break away from a background of sweet spices. A ripe fruit is perceived on the palate, but the mouth has a good freshness that gives it vitality and pushes the sip towards a finish with toasted and dried fruit notes. 44

>Alta Langa Brut Contessa Rosa Rosé Ris. ’18

Fontanafredda

Serralunga d’Alba (CN)

Pinot Nero and Chardonnay grapes are cultivated in the Langa Albese and Astigiana, sinking their roots into soils of white clay, sand and calcareous marl. The Contessa Rosa combines good tension and a creamy bubble with sensations of raspberry, rhubarb and pomegranate. It closes with a savoury finish and good length. 27

>Alta Langa

Extra Brut Rosé ’20

Massimo Rivetti

Neive (CN)

Pinot nero and chardonnay create a rosé that offers notes of aromatic herbs, including sage, along with raspberry and currant on the nose. The mouth has good substance and pulp that recalls the small red fruits perceived on the nose. It closes with an aromatic and fresh finish with a delicate mineral vein.

The world lands in Puglia to discover Igp extra virgin olive oil

«We have opened the doors of our companies to international operators: a three-day full immersion in our green gold to make them competent ambassadors in their countries of our very precious product.» Maria Francesca Di Martino, president of the Consorzio Igp Olio di Puglia, thus recounts the landing in the land of Italian extra virgin olive oil of the journey that has been taking Igp Olio di Puglia around Italy and the world for a couple of years through the Radici Virtuose project. Last November, at last, the international buyers and journalists were hosted in Puglia: a trip that brought the group of experts and industry professionals to experience firsthand all the stages of production of Igp Olio di Puglia, from olive harvesting to bottling.

A fascinating journey through the many and very different realities of the Apulian territory that involved from the smallest to the largest oil mills, all the way to the large bottling centers. A unique opportunity to understand the many facets of production that make Puglia's oil production great. «I am sure,» says President Di Martino, «that in each company visited, the passion, commitment, effort and professionalism with which we dedicate ourselves to our work was felt: proud of our extra virgin olive oil, but above all proud of our territory. Producing Igp certified extra virgin olive oil Olio di Puglia is in fact the choice of those who produce quality and, grateful to their territory, choose to certify the geographical origin of the product. Puglia, thanks to its scenic and enogastronomic beauty, is an international brand and the Consortium for the protection and enhancement

The Consortium Igp Olio di Puglia welcomed international press and buyers who visited olive groves and oil mills in the region

of Igp Olio di Puglia is proud to contribute to bringing the quality of our productions outside our borders».

PUGLIA’S OLIVES

From a quantitative point of view, Apulia is the most important region of the Peninsula, with half of the national production, and is proving year after year that quality and quantity can go hand in hand, offering products that have become increasingly sought after in Italy and around the world. A path made of enhancing the many varietal typicalities that characterize it through indigenous cultivars such as Peranzana, Coratina, Ogliarola, Cellina di Nardò and others recently inserted such as Favolosa and Leccino.

The result is very diverse oils that can meet the different tastes of consumers and prove to be of great versatility in Italian cuisines. An added value, moreover, also for all those chefs and cooks who decide to enhance the aromas of their dishes through the simplest and most immediate gesture, but never taken for granted: the final olive oil dribble on the plate.

Consorzio per la Tutela e la Valorizzazione dell’Olio Extravergine di Oliva a Indicazione Geografica Protetta “Olio di Puglia” radicivirtuose.it foliodipugliaigp $instagram.com/oliodipugliaigp

Gambero Rosso Roadshow: Live in São Paulo

by Marco Sabellico

São Paulo, the vibrant heart of Brazil and home to over 5 million ItalianBrazilians, once again dazzled as it hosted the illustrious Gambero Rosso Roadshow. On November 25th , the iconic Hotel Unique - an architectural gem designed by the visionary Ruy Ohtake - was transformed into a breathtaking celebration of the Dolce Vita, drawing hundreds of enthusiastic wine lovers and culinary aficionados for an unforgettable evening. As the economic

powerhouse of Brazil - the seventh largest economy in the world - São Paulo stands as a gastronomic epicenter where cultures converge and culinary traditions thrive. This year’s Roadshow was nothing short of a resounding success, featuring around 40 esteemed wineries from Italy’s sun-drenched vineyards, from the rolling hills of Piedmont to the vibrant coasts of Sicily. With over 120 exquisite labels available for sampling, attendees indulged in the finest Italian wines while connecting

with a distinguished audience of sommeliers, journalists, and industry professionals.

The excitement reached a thrilling crescendo at 5:30 p.m. during the highly anticipated Award Ceremony for the Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide. This celebration honored São Paulo’s culinary treasures that embody the essence of Italian cuisine, recognizing the restaurateurs who have passionately brought authentic flavors to life in this

dynamic city.

São Paulo is truly a paradise for food lovers, where culinary influences blend in a vibrant mosaic of flavorsfrom the delicate nuances of French cuisine to the bold tastes of Japanese fare. Yet, it is the Italian cantinas and trattorias that truly shine, offering everything from exquisite fine dining experiences to beloved pizzerias that have become local institutions. These establishments not only enhance the city’s dining scene but also play a crucial role in the growing success of

Italian wines in Brazil. Adding to the event’s allure were two captivating Masterclasses led by Marco Sabellico, the senior editor of the Gambero Rosso Italian Wines Guide. Participants embarked on an enchanting journey through Italy’s most breathtaking vineyards, discovering the rich stories and artistry behind each bottle. This extraordinary experience allowed attendees to deepen their appreciation for Italian wines and the

vibrant culture that surrounds them. Under the enchanting glow of the crescent moon of Hotel Unique the Gambero Rosso Roadshow in São Paulo was not just an event; it was a triumphant celebration of passion, tradition, and the unbreakable bond between Italy and Brazil’s culinary landscapes. The evening left attendees inspired, invigorated, and eagerly anticipating the next opportunity to explore the world of Italian wines.

The 2025 Journey of Great Italian Wines Begins in Zurich!

Gambero Rosso Returns to Zurich with the Vini d’Italia Tour

by Marco Sabellico

Zurich, January 20th. What a dazzling debut for the Vini d’Italia Tour, marking the kickoff of Gambero Rosso’s international activities for 2025! It couldn’t have gone better: from 3 PM to 8 PM, wine enthusiasts, press members, and industry professionals flocked to the stunning Lake Side venue overlooking Lake Zurich to celebrate the finest Italian wines. Producers from the North to the South of Italy uncorked their best labels for a sophisticated and knowledgeable audience that has always held a deep passion for the Italian wine scene. “We couldn’t miss

this event in a city that has always brought us great satisfaction,” shared Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga, whose Tenuta San Leonardo was named Winery of the Year for the 2025 edition of the Vini d’Italia Guide. And we couldn’t agree more, especially seeing the crowd gathered around his table! Each producer present, from Alto Adige to Sicily, had their hands full. A thousand tastings, a thousand questions, and praises all around!

Zurich is a cosmopolitan city with a sparkling gastronomic scene where Italy plays a leading role. Thus, the

awards ceremony for the restaurants featured in our Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide was the highlight of this day celebrating Made in Italy gastronomy. A remarkable 11 establishments earned our accolades, reflecting the vibrant energy of the sector and the allure that Dolce Vita holds for Swiss gourmets. “Zurich is a special city; it has an experienced and discerning audience that only wants the best,” said one of the awardees, Raffaele Tromiro. “But they aren’t just looking for fine dining. We pizzeria owners are thriving too (his newly opened Taverna ‘e Pullicinella quickly

earned the Two Spicchi award), as long as we offer quality, impeccable service, and authentic flavors.”

But that’s not all! To enrich the event, we had a special guest: the Wines of Piedmont! Nine outstanding producers

The Best Addresses from Top Italian Restaurants in the World in Zurich

The Gambero Rosso team has meticulously selected over 700 establishments worldwide, and Zurich proudly boasts a vibrant Italian restaurant scene that reflects the city’s deep appreciation for authentic Italian cuisine, fine dining, and charming casual eateries. Here are the award winners in Zurich:

Let’s start with the pizzerias: claiming 1 Slice are San Gennaro and Casa Gourmet, both exciting new entries! Holding strong at 2 Slices are the everreliable Luigia, the renowned Napulé, and the promising newcomer La Taverna ‘e Pullicinella

Among the Wine Bars, the delightful Enoteca Riviera maintains its status with 2 Bottles, alongside the equally impressive new entrant, Neri Cantina e Cucina, which shares the same score.

Finally, we have the restaurants, all of which proudly hold 2 Forks: Accademia del Gusto, showcasing a nouvelle cuisine infused with Mediterranean aromas.

Quattro Leoni, offering an authentic and flavorful taste of Tuscan cuisine just like in Florence.

Gandria, helmed by Adriano Peroncini, presents a refined and creative reinterpretation of classic Italian dishes. And last but certainly not least, Ornellaia, an elegant dining experience born from a collaboration between the prestigious Bolgheri winery and the Bindella family that distributes its wines in Switzerland, operated by the Bordone brothers. Zurich’s Italian culinary scene is truly a treasure trove of flavors and experiences! Buon appetito!

showcased all the classics from the region. “Grignolino and Barbera d’Asti have once again demonstrated their potential today,” shared Elisabetta Currado, marketing manager of Castello di Gabiano. “The charm of our

indigenous grapes has struck a chord once more!” We had no doubts about this: from Barolo to the great whites, Piedmont’s wines are always an icon. Cheers to a fabulous celebration of Italian wine!

The Italian Wines guide returns to Munich

by Marzio Taccetti

The city's reception gave us high hopes regarding the interest in Italian wine.

The Vini d’Italia Tour 2025 indeed recorded an excellent public response, despite the challenging period for the sector. Returning after a year to the German city, we witnessed strong enthusiasm from the high number of visitors who flocked to the Münchner Künstlerhaus. Trade professionals and members of the press exchanged conversations and business cards with the participating companies, while wine lovers explored a panorama of wines and producers that allowed them to get a close-up view of Italian winemaking.

On January 22nd, Gambero Rosso organized an unmissable event for Italian wine enthusiasts on Bavarian soil. The hall of the Künstlerhaus was the setting for a highly attended event, confirming the spark of German interest in Italian wine. This comes during a difficult time for the sector, as reflected in data showing a decline in wine consumption in Germany. According to Statista, while 19.9 million hectoliters of wine were purchased in 2021, consumption dropped by almost one million last year, equivalent to one less bottle per capita annually. This decline can be attributed to the GDP slowdown and shifting habits regarding alcohol consumption.

However, Germany remains the fourth-largest wine-consuming country in the world - after France, Italy, and the United States - and the second-largest buyer of Italian wine (after the U.S.).

“Italian wine continues to have a strong following among German enthusiasts,” said journalist Hans Nutsch. Sommelier Peter Werner echoed this sentiment, noting that for the core group of attentive and passionate aficionados, this is an unmissable event. After all, Germany has long been a friend of Italian wine.

The Best Italian Restaurants in Munich

Adding to the event, the Top Italian Restaurants ceremony highlighted how Italian cuisine is widely appreciated and sought after in the Bavarian city. This is evidenced by the list of awarded restaurants, which continues to see new inclusions and confirmations each year.

Among the 16 recognized establishments, the **Best Contemporary Wine List Award** went to the historic Osteria der Katzlmacher (2 Forks). **Acquarello**, led by Maro Gamba, reaffirmed its status as the epitome of Italian cuisine in Munich, earning the highest score in the guide: the prestigious Three Forks.

food

Role play

Pasta changes position on chefs’ menus, from first course to dessert or digestif

by Antonella De Santis

Whether it is with meat sauce or cheese, like the most classic of first courses, or whether it is declined in bitter versions (as if it were a digestive), or acidulous and fresh to prepare the mouth for dessert, pasta is increasingly moving to close the savoury part of menus. But there is also no shortage of those who offer it in a sweet version, or turn it into a small pastry: this is not a search for a wow effect, but the result of experiments with a high level of technique and creativity.

«If you are served 18 dishes in a restaurant, without pasta, you have been served 18 antipasti». This was said by Alessandro Negrini (with Fabio Pisani at the helm of Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia), summarising the all-Italian attitude towards pasta (that «absurd Italian gas-

Gucci Osteria: “Don’t call it cassata”, by Karime Lopez and Taka Kondo. Above Bloody Gippo by Alberto Gipponi chef of Dina in Gussago a few kilometres from Brescia

tronomic religion» as Filippo Tommaso Marinetti defined it), the foundation of our gastronomic culture and constituent element of the Italian meal. «Without it I feel like I haven’t eaten» many say. Yet pasta - the dry kind we know - is a recent thing on our tables. Ancient cookbooks speak of it, but with consumption habits that are very different from today, not only in terms of cooking time (even two hours as Maestro Martino wrote in the 15th century and Bartolomeo Scappi between the 16th and 17th centuries) but also in terms of function: as a side dish, as still happens abroad and like rice in certain parts of the world, or as a crust or covering for meat. And if until the 1500s it was a delicacy for the few, accompanied by sugar and cinnamon, from the 1600s onwards it grew in popularity after technical innovations made it an available and cheap food, «also simple to prepare, because boiled in water it did not have to be constantly checked: women while they were providing the food could do other things,» adds

Storia della pasta in dieci piatti di L. Cesari; Pasta Revolution di E. Cozzella; La cucina italiana di A. Capatti e M. Montanari; Il mito delle origini di M. Montanari; Opera di Bartolomeo Scappi; Libro de arte coquinaria di Maestro Martino

Marco Ambrosino, a chef who has done a lot of thinking and experimentation on pasta. At a certain point in Italy it stopped being an ancillary role, a side dish, to become a main course and we went from being “leaf-eaters” to “pasta eaters”. In the 18th century it was the food of the people in Naples, and it was enough on its own; only later was something added before and something after, giving it the position it still holds today, between starters and main courses.

Amaro, digestive or pre-dessert?

More and more often there are those who take the liberty of moving it, the

Alberto Gipponi’s vitrified pasta from his I M PASTA menu (photo by Mattia Aquila)

pasta: Karime Lopez and Taka Kondo at Gucci Osteria serve Non dire cassate: born as a predessert, today - with the same recipe - it is a first course. The point is: think of pasta as an element (and not the absolute protagonist) of the dish, on a par with others. «Nobody would open or close a menu with a first course, a pasta dish, but you can make dishes WITH pasta», Ambrosino sums up. For years, he has been serving carbohydrates at two different times, partly out of personal preference: «two pasta dishes in a row I can’t eat in the middle of a menu», and

partly for a playful reason: «presenting spaghetti after meat creates a reaction in the guest, it reminds one a little of the spaghetti at the end of the evening». Unhinging the usual pattern, therefore, allows rigatoni&co to be given a role that is more than a mere support to the condiments, highlighting peculiar characteristics that are often overlooked. Closing the tasting at Sustanza (it is not on the menu, lest it be misunderstood) is spaghetti cooked in oxidative wine, juniper oil, burnt citrus peel and aromatic herbs: anything but comforting, bitter and super-balsamic, it has unexpected textures and tactile sensations. It is a breakthrough element. It was not initially conceived as a predessert - rather a prodrome to dessert - but soon took on its function, and for this it

was awarded in our guide Ristoranti d’Italia 2025. It can hardly be placed in another part of the meal and in portions larger than the 15 grams provided. Instead, the grams of Gianluca Gorini’s Spaghetto tonico, the last savoury step, are 20. «People, if it is not on the menu, ask us for it», says the chef from Bagno di Romagna. That unusual ending has appealed to his customers: original and amusing, but above all stimulating to the palate, it is whipped with sour butter, flavoured with gentian and served with a candied bergamot peel on the edge of the dish to give balance and aromaticity to the whole. The butter is a vehicle for aromas, giving structure and a certain envelopment that - together with the pecorino cheese -

closes and balances the dish. Once again, bitter and balsamic notes prolong the sensation on the palate: the inspiration is that of digestifs at the end of a meal, an all-Italian tradition of which Gorini himself is a fan, which is why the dish was designed for that position.

A game of structure

Even Gualtiero Marchesi - whom Gorini experienced through Paolo Lopriore - used to serve carbohydrates at the end of the meal. From there many: «For 20 years Bottura has been serving tortellini at the end, as a kind of pre-dessert», recalls Alberto Gipponi, who three years ago at Dina’s signed the I M PASTA menu, in which he

Gianluca Gorini’s Spaghetto Tonico in Bagno di Romagna (photo by Nicolò Brunelli)

From side dish to street food

In the past, pasta has been many things: from a side dish for meat dishes to street food. Moreover, the pastasciutta for which we Italians are famous was not even the most popular way of eating it, while pasta in broth or baked pasta was more fashionable.

Towards the end of the 18th century, the structure of table service began to change. One of the effects is that pasta is untied from the other meat courses and finds its own space as the first course, but it will be a slow revolution that will take more than a century to establish itself definitively. We can say that maccheroni alla napoletana was the real architect of this change. Macaroni was enriched with stew sauce, while meat remained the main course. With the passage of time, pastasciutta came to have an ever-increasing specific weight and opened up to many more condiments. Some ancient forms of pasta, however, still survive today, such as sweet ravioli - fried or baked - which were once, not so long ago, part of the same gastronomic universe as filled pasta.

Luca Cesari

transformed our food-symbol into an ingredient: overcooked, stretched, vitrified, punctuating the entire menu in unpredictable ways. Gipponi has a vocation for conceptualisation and in that work he also reasoned on the value of absence - can a pasta dish exist without it? - starting with very Italian sauces, fillings and gravies deprived of their container, thus amplifying their importance in our imagination. He moves by digging deep, to give as much value as possible to a phenomenal element that in Italy we insist on observing from a single perspective. «I

didn’t want to provoke, but to offer something that tells my own path». And there is a lot of pasta in his path. As a boy he was bored with it, as a cook he was not. «Water and flour are a blank canvas», he maintains and emphasises how the tactile part is a fundamental component in the gastronomic experience. The example is paddy rice, which in the mouth is slimy, elusive, «a bit like an oyster», he explains, so he combines it with the mollusc: he combines extra virgin olive oil and bay leaves and makes it an appetiser, conquering an unusual

position. «If you make sense of it in the story, you can do anything», he comments. He then used it as a side element of a main course and in a now classic predessert: a spaghetti with a chewy texture (given by candying with honey), honey vinegar and Tellicherry pepper that generates kinesthetic sensations of heat in contrast to the frozen endive leaf under which it is hidden. Gipponi has experimented a lot, studying unusual processes and cooking, looking for particular structures (as in the vitrified or blanched pasta), trompe l’oeil (in the raw but cooked casoncelli, in which the jellied pastry, pasteurised and then cooked appears completely raw) into what he calls solid cocktails such as the Bloody Gippo, or in the iced passatelli with artichoke broth served as a bitter, or again in his version of Virgin Tequila with almond milk paste and flour, almond salt and lemon. So much for non-alcoholic cocktails!

First course or ultimate enjoyment?

In Senigallia we have seen first courses moved to the back by both Mauro Uliassi (who closed Lab 2024 with Tagliatella with partridge ragout and black truffle) and Moreno Cedroni (who likes to disorient Luca and Moreno in the tasting), while in Rimini Jacopo Ticchi serves them after the crudi, the fish cooked in a black pepper crust and the barbecued fish, the guazzetto and even the intermezzos (such as octopus and coffee, and lime granita and seawater). Why? «Years

ago I heard Cracco talking about a nice spaghetto alla carbonara as the finale of certain somewhat abstract meals. I started to think about the position of the pasta. I put it at the end to give precedence to our focus, which is the fish in its structures. The pasta here is not a main act, but plays the role of final enjoyment». The Cappelletti vuoti alla panna e fegato di pesce bring together the classic tortellini alla panna and tortellini bugiardi. Pre-cooked by steaming, dried and then cooked in water to give it a firm texture, they go with escalope of grilled fish liver, cream, lemon nutmeg and anchovy colatura: they have an intense bite, sweet, fatty and balanced by acidity. For now this is the case, in the future who knows..

Digestion & Divertissement

«We are accustomed to the classic subdivision of the menu, but this is a cliché without any gastronomic or health-related sense», comments Giuseppe Iannotti, who at Kresios is used to serving pasta at the end: in his blind menus, with many mouthfuls served at a brisk pace, he does not want to give any coordinates as to where in the meal you are. Not only that: «when there is a fast pace of service we hardly notice where we are, but the carbohydrate in the middle of the menu can be a problem: if you stop chewing and swallowing for more than 10 minutes, the carbohydrate digestion begins, giving you that typical state of contentment, distracting you from

The empty cappelletti with cream and fish liver: Jacopo Ticchi’s dish at his Da Lucio in Rimini (photo by Stefania Zanetti and Matteo Bellomo)

the following courses, the main ones».

Alessandro Gilmozzi worked with a gastroenterologist to study the correct interval between one dish and the next so as not to strain the digestive process: 7/8 minutes. In his menus he never exceeds a total of 60 grams of pasta, not even in those dedicated to this product on which the chef at El Molin began experimenting around 2010, shortly after Davide Scabin’s trials (how can we not remember his pongo?). «He gave me the input: Davide is the absolute master of studying pasta». In years and years of tests and dedicated menus, he has scrambled it in every way: transformed into chips or mayonnaise, broken down and reassembled, experimenting with new processes such as vac -

uum rehydration, which allows it to be cooked for only a minute and a half (with a great saving of energy, water and time). Treated in this way, it keeps for up to three months, after which a light fermentation opens up new opportunities: distilled and flavoured, it becomes a gin with an alcohol content of 20 degrees. He calls it Scent of Dough: it is one of many successful experiments. There are many in the pastry industry that use pastry as an ingredient in a dry mixture of water and flour, for cream puffs or other desserts. This is the case of the mochi or the macaron prepared with flour made from candied dough with a light infusion and then dried, the result of hundreds of trials. In Rumtopf he takes the recipe for fruit in alcoholic infusion, typical of Trentino

Alto-Adige, and applies it to spelt fusili cooked for 5 minutes and then left to infuse with rum and elderberry syrup for 15 hours at 4°C. The result? Perfect structure, aromas of fruit and berries. Pair it with fruit and ice cream. They are part of El Molin’s petit fours and mark the furthest from the centre of the menu that a pastry has ever conquered.

A Rumtopf of pasta by chef Alessandro Gilmozzi (photo by Stefano Caffarri)

travel

Paradise at high altitudes

Stunning landscapes, in every season: welcome to enchanting Val Pusteria, including at the table

by Valentina Marino − maps by Alessandro Naldi

Val Pusteria

5 Km

Brunico

Molini di Tures

San Candido

Villabassa

Valdaora di Mezzo

San Lorenzo di Sebato

Novacella

Rio di Pusteria

Terento

Dobbiaco

Selva di Val Gardena

Canazei

Parco Naturale Puez Odle

Parco Naturale di Fanes-Sennes-Braies

Cortina d’Ampezzo

San Vito di Cadore

Chienes

Vandoies

Brunico

1 Atelier Moessmer

Norbert Niederkofler

W alther - von - der - v ogel W eideS tra SS e , 17 0474 646629

Restaurant . Norbert Niederkofler pursues his “cook the mountain” philosophy here, an ethical rethinking of all that the mountains can give while protecting the environment and biodiversity. The products are made by small artisans, the team is tried and tested and made up of excellent professionals. Polenta biscuit with Zoncolan cheese, “berries, fruit and vegetables”, ‘“bread and cheese”: each course is a joy for the eyes and palate, and the service has metronome-like timing. The wine list is up to the mark.

2 B.Local via e uropa , 9 0474 835222

Bistro. A cuisine that follows the principles of sustainability, based on mostly local and seasonal ingredients. Menu with few items, always interesting and beautiful interpretations of vegetables, from baked carrots, oat milk, chives and cheese to leek, chanterelle and veal head risotto. Wine list in line with the restaurant's philosophy. Long opening hours, starting in the morning.

3 Oberraut via ameto, 1 0474 559977

Trattoria. A fine establishment run by the Feichter family, with a vegetable garden, greenhouse, stable and children's play area. On the menu, there is maximum transparency as to the origin of the ingredients: beef tartare, ravioli filled with goat cheese and basil or (a must try) with rutabaga (also known as Swedish turnip),

with beetroot and almond slivers. In season the nettle soup is unfailing, and canederli and goulash are always present. Service is impeccable, regional wine list.

4 Acherer Patisserie.Blumen

via Centrale, 8b 0474 410030

Pastry shop In a historic building in the city centre, a shop with a modern design and a unique concept in which Andreas Acherer's haute patisserie creations are flanked by those of his wife Barbara Strondl. Cruffins, hazelnut rolls, girelle with sultanas, and then single portions, the not-tobe-missed Sacher and strudel, cakes, large leavened pastries, pralines, and macaroons. In the Bolzano location (at Via Leonardo Da Vinci 1/D), there is also a cafe and tables.

Lake Braies, also famous as Princess Sissi’s favourite

Chienes

5 Der Gassenwirt via C hiene S , 42 0474 565389

Restaurant. Hotel and inn in Tyrolean style with passionate family management. In the ‘Locanda’, a menu based on local, fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared by a young chef: trio of dumplings, fillet of boiled trout on mashed leeks and beurre blanc, grilled saddle of beef with celery mousseline. The mill, herb garden and mountain pine oil distillery are also on the premises.

Dobbiaco

6 Eirisch Grill

p zza m uni C ipio , 4 b 340 2529827

Sandwich shop. Classic or special (like with crispy chicken, salmon, even veggie versions), the burgers

here are really serious business. Thanks to the select ingredients, starting with the bread for the buns, the care in preparation, and excellent French fries. Small and hip place, ideal for a quick but tasty break.

7 Kuggler’s Spechstube

C o S tano S ellari , 4 329 1285456

Shop & kitchen. Home-made cured meats are at the heart of the offer, but the cooked food here is also very good. You stay in a quaint parlour, in a warm and cosy ambience, and refresh yourself with the aforementioned cured meats, but also with cooked meats and typical dishes. Loving welcome and service.

Canederli, one of South Tyrol’s iconic dishes

Iconic dishes

Canederli with speck: these are the typical bread ‘dumplings’ available in countless variations (with mushrooms, with red turnips, with wild herbs, pressed...). These are the most traditional, and are made from a mixture of bread soaked in milk and eggs and flavoured with chopped parsley, previously sautéed onion and cubes of speck. After resting for 10 minutes, the ‘meatballs’ are formed and boiled in salted boiling water, drained after about 8 minutes and generally served in meat broth.

Stockfish Gröstl: a recipe that has now almost disappeared, it involves using stockfish that has to be left to soak for at least 9 hours, taking care to change the water often. Once softened, it is boiled for a long time, then boned, cut into cubes and sautéed in a pan with onion and garlic. Separately, brown the previously boiled potatoes in butter, cut them into slices, add them to the fish and complete with a cream and egg mixture.

Ingsaante Niggelen: : typical poppyseed cake made from leavened dough kneaded into the shape of a roll, cut into pieces and then fried. The resulting morsels are soaked in milk and sugar and flavoured with poppy seeds and cinnamon. Finally, they are arranged in layers, sprinkling the last one with melted butter.

Schüttelbrot: South Tyrolean bread, very rustic and spicy, with a crunchy texture and the typical round shape. The dough is made from rye flour, yeast, water, salt and caraway. It is then cut into fairly thin discs and baked in the oven until completely dry, which makes it storable for a long time.

Tirtlan: from Dobbiaco and widespread on the menus of malghe and masi (shepherd's huts), they are a kind of pancake with a dough made from rye and wheat flour, egg and melted butter, and a filling of ricotta cheese, potatoes, onion, and chives. Once fried, they are usually served with barley soup.

8 Birgit Patisserie

p zza del m uni C ipio , 1 a 0474 973021

Pastry Shop Birgit Steinwandter's pastry shop is contemporary, innovative but linked to the territory and tradition. The ambience is well cared for, dominated by the large counter that houses the elegant parade of single-portion and cakes sold by the slice. There is no lack of vegan proposals, try the Sacher and the strudel, apple and in the ricotta and sultana variant, also worth trying are the pralines and ice cream. The bar emphasises local products.

9 Bernhard Feichter

via z ipfanger , 1 0474 972324

Bakery. Agriculture and baking intertwine in the realm of Bernard Feichter, a few steps from the centre. At the counter, a few types of bread, an interpretation of South Tyrolean culture, which

is borderline here. One can taste the real pusterese, the schuttelbrot, among the sweet girelle or stuffed sweet rolls, biscuits. Savoury crackers in recent years have also contributed to making this sign known outside the valley.

10 Tilia

via d olomiten , 31 b 335 8127783

Restaurant. A gem of a few seats set in the grounds of the former Grand Hotel, the realm of Chris Oberhammer, a cook with a solid classical training, French in style but with good forays into the Mediterranean style, particularly in seafood dishes. Preparations often change according to market and fancy. Book in advance.

Falzes

11

Schöneck

lo C m olini

via S C hlo SS S C höne C k , 11 0474 565550

Restaurant. A 30-year history that the Baumgartner family keeps alive through the innovative spirit of Chef Karl in the kitchen and the attentive service of Mary and Siegi. Traditional local and Mediterranean dishes are served, but there is also room for experimentation, always using top-quality raw materials supplied by producers in the Pusteria Valley. Extensive wine cellar.

San Candido, one of the most renowned ski resorts in Val Pusteria

Chalets with a view

A AlpiNN Food Space & Restaurant

b runi C o - p lan de C orone S , 11 – 0474 431072

Restaurant. At high altitude, at more than 2,000 metres, a space designed for total sharing: open-plan dining room and kitchen, floor-to-ceiling windows with breathtaking views of the Alps, menu supervised by Norbert Niederkofler and with a strong territorial identity, with dishes ‘from the mountain to the plate’. Extensive wine cellar

C Jora Mountain Dining

S an C andido - via p a SC olo , 6 - 335 6561256

Restaurant. The location, at an altitude of 1,325 metres in the Monte Baranci ski and hiking complex, would alone be enough to justify a visit. The warm welcome of the Holzner family and a cuisine with local and sustainable ingredients do the rest. Theme evenings.

C Emilio Comici

S elva di v al g ardena – plan de g ralba , 24 – 0471 1930388

Restaurant. Stunning location, at the foot of the Sassolungo, a sophisticated ambience, seafood cuisine that you don't expect and still wines to enjoy meals and aperitifs at altitude in the best way. A refuge that has existed since the 1950s, which has been renovated over time and now ensures a high level stop over, in every sense.

AlpiNN Food Space & Restaurant, Norbert Niederkofler’s highaltitude restaurant

12 Sichelburg via C a S tello , 1 a 0474 055603

Ristorante A fairytale atmosphere, in atmospheric rooms on the first floor of a 14th-century castle. In su ch a context, the cuisine risks taking a back seat, but here even the menus (there are some tasting menus along with the à la carte) offer considerable satisfaction: potato fritters with Puster sauerkraut and home-smoked ‘nostrano’ beef ham, as well as Hokkaido pumpkin velouté and Thai curry with Argentine prawn, amaranth and Japanese leek.

Rio di Pusteria

13 Wieserhütte

fraz maranza - altfaSStal 0472 520350 - 340 3756419

Trattoria. In the heart of the most authentic South Tyrol, a malga (alpine chalet) with rooms set in a sort of mountain gorge that seems to embrace and welcome hikers. An evocative place where you can enjoy delicious cheeses as well as typical dishes, from dumplings in various versions (try the nettle ones) to omelette soup, from gnocchi with onion and house cheese to cranberry kaiserschmarrn.

San Candido

14 Atto Suites & Cuisine via dei tintori, 6 0474 431431

Restaurant. A modern design building with flats of different sizes and types plus a restaurant with a young, smart brigade. The dishes are very interesting, and not only on the menu: breast of quail, red onion, polenta; chestnut cream, veal sweetbreads, Tonka bean, chervil; shoulder of veal, cauliflower, carrots,

walnuts; cooked apple semifreddo, cranberries, cinnamon and Calvados. You can also come just for an aperitif. Theme evenings.

15 Helmhotel fraz verSCiaCo via bolzano, 2 0474 910042

Restaurant. Attached to a comfortable, family-run 3-star hotel, about 300 metres from the Monte Elmo cable car, this restaurant is furnished in typical style and made even cosier by the lit fireplace and candlelit tables. The menu includes well-made, tasty dishes as well as a good, long-rising pizza baked in a wood-fired oven. The wine cellar features South Tyrolean labels.

16 Kleinmarerhof fraz verSCiaCo via marer, 2 0474 910001

Trattoria. Surrounded by greenery, it offers a spectacular view of the peaks of the Baranci, the Tre Scarpieri group and Monte Elmo. Take a seat in the two characteristic stuben or in the open-air area to enjoy a cuisine based mainly on home-grown ingredients: fruit, vegetables, herbs, beef, veal and pork. Comfortable and quiet rooms, super breakfast available. Visits to the farm and excursions are organised. Booking.

17 Senfter’s Cafè Bistro via merCato veCChio, 4 0474 913257

Bistro The name Senfter in San Candido (and beyond) is synonymous with quality cured pork products. In addition to the farm, the butchergastronomy and a residence, Senfter is a modern café and bistro, with non-stop opening hours from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. You come here for breakfast or a snack or an aperitif or a proper meal in the traditional way.

San Lorenzo di Sebato

18 Lerchner’s in Ruggen loC ronChi, 3 a 0474 404014

Trattoria. JJohann Lerchner and his daughter Sandra offer traditional South Tyrolean cuisine in a modern version, linked to seasonality and sustainability: the products are 0 km, the meat comes from their own herd as do the herbs from the garden, the vegetables from local farmers, the flour from the nearby village mill, and the water is spring water. The rooms are simple and modern, the view is breathtaking, and the menu is a carousel of ancient and modern flavours: barley or herb soups, schlutzkrapfen, venison stew with polenta, and a masterful apple strudel.

Vandoies

19 La Passion

loC vandoieS di Sopra via San niColò, 5b 0472 868595

Restaurant. Flair and creativity applied to traditional products with European inspiration. These are the values of Wolfgang Kerschbaumer, who for a few place settings and with the utmost care for his customers offers vegetable, fish and land-based dishes, such as the oven-roasted saddle of lamb with potato gröstl and porcini mushrooms. Versatile wine cellar, reservation essential.

Villabassa

20 Adler p zza von kurz, 3 0474 745128

Restaurant. In this historic gasthof, Helena Markart takes her cue from traditional recipes and excellent local ingredients for a fresher, more modern cuisine. Seasonal vegetables, wild herbs, meats, pressed dumplings, the now unobtainable cod gröstl. Numerous sought-after labels in the cellar. Professional, friendly and welcoming service

My own private Regenerating at high altitude

I have been vacationing in Villabassa, near Lake Braies, since 1957. Initially, with the whole family - we were six children - we went to Courmayeur, then when it became a bit too fashionable, my father accepted his sister's invitation, who had a farm here, and fell in love with Tyrol. For a while we stayed in hotels, now I am a regular guest at Adler, where hostess Helena prepares dishes that are genuine rarities, such as venison consommé (exceptional) and tagliatelle al sangue. Another passion of mine is canederli, simple bread "balls" that are prepared in a thousand ways and served either boiled or sautéed in butter: a delicacy. The ones at the Rifugio Rudi, at Sesto (Via Europa, 21) are really good: you get there by cable car and it is on a large plateau at 2,000 metres just below the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. There you can even enjoy goulash, venison, and kaiserschmarren with blueberries. And to recharge while walking or skiing, they give you skiwasser, the "energy drink" of the skier, made of raspberry syrup, lemon juice and water. My "pusher" of boiled sausages and sauerkraut is the little kiosk owned by a couple who have always stood on the road to Monguelfo (now they also make burgers and sandwiches. And of course it doesn’t have a name). And I can't fail to mention Norbert Niederkofler at the Atelier Moessmer in Brunico, where my mother (who was a bit of a snob) once had custommade clothes made. It's just that I feel at home here, I am now an adopted Tyrolean. There is a respect for the environment, for public property, for the elderly that leaves you speechless, always something new to see or to taste. And a sense of community that greets you as soon as you enter a stube and start singing with them.

Giorgione