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The values of wine
Lorenzo Ruggeri
The mission is clear: to put beauty back at the centre of the wine narrative. We return to exalt the cultural and social aspects, the anticipation, that complex interaction between man and nature that still eludes any algorithm. For many people, wine also represents a lifestyle, a curious way of looking at the world: the attention to detail, the invitation to reflection, that positive and joyful attitude to seeing things. It is not only the natural extension of the table, but also a cultural tool for travelling through space and time with unique and unrepeatable flavours.
We never stop talking about why we love wine so deeply. In recent times we have taken this for granted, taken it for granted. But it is not so, and it is dramatically urgent in one of the most complex consumer contexts of recent years. The challenges are multiplying: climate, market, taste, communication are changing. Never before has it been so necessary to have the tools to keep up with the times and read the historical complexity of the moment in order to make choices. Because today it is those who in recent decades have followed fashions, those who planted chardonnay without asking why, those who have only relied on price; those cooperatives that have never managed to carry out a shred of a programme even in the short term that are in difficulty. In reflection, there is a large segment of the wine world, that of the Three Glasses but not only, in particular that of the artisans, which continues to grow. It is holding and relaunching. A world that clings to solid values, today for tomorrow. We have summarised them in a brief vademecum.
It starts with the importance of a defined identity, wineries that have a well-personalised offer, that know exactly where they operate and what they are doing. And from respect: respect for those who buy the wine, for the environment (but for real), and for those who make the wine. Because it is the value of the people in the cellars and the team spirit that is created between the individual components that makes all the difference. Third watchword: vision. The ability to read one’s wine in the medium and long term, modifying the strategy on the basis of the elements along the way. Because if temperatures rise another 5 degrees in the next few years, something will have to be changed. And then constancy, the ability to maintain rigour and commitment at all stages, for quality production across the entire range: it is rightly often said that the seriousness of a winery is judged by its base wine. Fifth and last element: courage. Today’s great wines would never have come about without courageous choices and intuition. It is time to start taking risks again.
Limited Edition
This is the new feature of Vini d’Italia 2025
Precious wines, produced in a maximum of 3,000 bottles: artisanal, experimental, inspiring
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
The magic of rare wines
Let’s start with the definition. What is a rare wine? What are its characteristics? What does it tell us? Let us proceed step by step. First of all, it is a product conceived and elaborated in an artisanal dimension. The quantity is particularly limited and therefore difficult to find. As a filter, we have set a limit of 3,000 bottles for each wine, with very few exceptions linked to expressions from particularly extreme and unique contexts. Rarity is therefore first and foremost related to the number of bottles, but not only. What makes rare wines unique and fascinating is the message enclosed in the bottle. The labels we have chosen have a common thread: there is a risk behind them, a stylistic break, a desire to move the bar, to test the limit. There is experimentation and innovation, on the one hand, but there is no lack of virtuous examples that take up past practices and reinterpret them. In short, they are bottles capable of inspiring, just like avant-garde haute cuisine that, playing on a few numbers, allows itself the luxury of transforming food into expressions of culture, breaking down ideas and proposing new visions. Among our rare wines, there are single parcels of ultra-celebrated territories such as appellations that are absolutely off the radar, there are those who bet on very long bottle-ageing on yeasts, and those who wield ageing tools that are only valid on very small batches.
We are convinced that these niche wines deserve a space of their own. Because they retain
a special adherence with the territory and with those who interpret it. Because they are often points of departure or landing, because wine lovers like us seek the different, the unpredictable, the surprise in the glass. This is why we decided to draw up an ideal list of Italy’s rare wines, a journey of curiosity and excellence. Yes, because the 50 wines chosen are the spearhead of our tastings, bottles to collect in the cellar, to take home after long journeys up and down the Peninsula. In our story we have put together very small artisans, vigneron garagistas, but also super selections designed by structured companies that in a wide and crowded range propose a few labels drawn from a handful of bottles. An important theme that emerges from our selections is high altitude, there are many wines from vineyards cultivated at altitudes that were unthinkable just a few years ago: after a few experimental trials, the results are increasingly interesting and fascinating. We have also dedicated special attention to sweet and meditation wines, a type often forgotten by the market, but which contains some world-class excellence of absolute value. We would like to find it again and again throughout the meal, perhaps with savoury pairings for often overwhelming and surprising combinations. Take the time to read the stories of these 50 wines. In the glass you will find that uniqueness that fuels the sacred fire of true enthusiasts: bottles to sip slowly, to share with those who know how to listen and question themselves.
The Rare Wines List The 50 best labels
Handcrafted, tailor-made products, expressions of
individual vineyards and grape varieties that are often
forgotten
>Franciacorta
Dosaggio Zero
Annamaria Clementi R.S. Ris. ’80
Ca’ del Bosco Erbusco (BS)
Of the excellent 1980 vintage, André Dubois (chef de cave at the time) and Maurizio Zanella decided to set aside a few thousand bottles only now disgorging, after 42 years. A wine of extreme elegance and equally complex depth: hazelnut, candied citrus, hints of oyster on the nose and palate, on a perlage of unparalleled finesse and continuity. 700
>Franciacorta
Brut Nature Orfano Terre Rosse Ris. ’16
Corte Fusia
Coccaglio (BS)
A Blanc de Blancs from Franciacorta that comes from a parcel selection on the slopes of Monte Orfano. A few bottles that manage to convey the territory of origin. It smells of toast and hazelnut, then anise and almond. On the palate it is enveloping, creamy with an intriguing mouthfeel and all played on mineral hints and a seductive drink. 80
>Alta Langa Pas Dosè 140 Mesi Zero ’11
Enrico Serafino Canale (CN)
A refined bubble, deep and savoury. It is incredible that 13 years after harvest a wine still shows such vitality. The nose is a kaleidoscope of aromas: it starts with a note of dried fruit, followed by spicy, pastry, peach and wild flower tones. On the palate it is enveloping, the carbonic gives a creamy sensation and the acidity supports a very long sip. 134,40
>Franciacorta Extra Brut Supèi ’17
95 95 94
Uberti Erbusco (BS)
Sourced from a parcel of the Salem vineyard in Erbusco, the 2017 Supèi Extra Brut surprises with its balance between drinkability and freshness. Made solely from chardonnay grapes vinified in barriques, it opens on the nose with notes of yellow peach, tropical fruit and toasted hazelnuts, with a richness that we also find on the palate, refreshed by a savoury finish. 64
>Trento Brut Madame Martis Ris. ’13
Maso Martis Trento
A microscopic cuvée dedicated to Roberta, the madame of the house. A blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier and nine years on the lees for a truly incredible result. The complexity on the nose is astonishing, but even more so the finesse of the aromas, while the palate is subtle, vertical, and alternates savoury sensations with acidic freshness.
>Lambrusco di Sorbara Brut
Nature M. Cl. Ring Adora ’21
Podere Il Saliceto Campogalliano (MO)
Podere Il Saliceto’s dedication to working with Sorbara grapes is evident when tasting Ring Adora. We are talking about a Lambrusco di Sorbara Metodo Classico made in just a few hundred bottles that stands out for its superfine carbonicity, marked acidity and textbook depth that makes it one of the most interesting wines in its category. 24
>Vitovska Solo MM ’20
Vodopivec Sgonico (TS)
Serving temperature no lower than 13-14 degrees. This is one of the greatest Italian whites from a single plot of land in the Trieste Karst, processed in amphora where it remains in contact with the skins for about 6 months, before being transferred to large casks. Exuberant aromas of oyster, almond and helichrysum. The taste is marine, spicy, savoury. The persistence is infinite. 65
>Greco di Tufo Le Arcaie di San Pio ’22
Passo delle Tortore Pietradefusi (AV)
A Greco di Tufo Reserve produced in very few bottles, but bewitching for its aromatic and gustatory clarity. Le Arcaie di San Pio ‘22 starts off with smoky sensations, white flowers, light fruity puffs in a context of elegance and finesse, which materialise in an incredible sip for its tension and freshness, underlined by a juicy interplay between acidity and sapidity. 48
98 97 96
>Cupo Fiano ’20
Pietracupa Montefredane (AV)
Starts off pianissimo, closes in glory. It is striking for its aromatic purity, in which scents of anise, cedar and flint mingle. On the palate, it is a glove, creamy, fine, with a savoury lunge. It has a composed and harmonious character and a very long finish, with enormous evolutionary potential. One of the greatest Italian whites without ifs and buts. 48
>Etna Bianco Sup. Palmento Caselle ’20
I
Vigneri Randazzo (CT)
Alberello-trained vineyard on the south-eastern slope of Etna, in the commune of Milo. The Foti family offers a Carricante that is, to say the least, broad and multifaceted, with a ripe and spicy profile: toasted and iodised puffs. The evolution is enthralling, it has juice and grit. The mouth is resounding, deep, taut, creamy: rich in flavour and momentum. Very long. 140
>Poggio del Crine Sauvignon
’21
Montauto Manciano (GR)
A great Sauvignon from Central Italy? Absolutely, if the winery is called Montauto. Poggio del Crine is the result of a rigorous selection of grapes, skilfully worked to obtain a wine that is complex on the nose, with hints of white fruit and aniseed and a slight herbaceous touch that anticipates a subtle, fine, elegant, deep and very clean palate. 90
>Etna Bianco Sup. Kudos ’19
Curtaz
Biancavilla (CT)
It combines elegance, depth, complexity and fullness. Federico Curtaz produces it on Etna, a terroir he knows very well. White fruit, a slight touch of aniseed, mountain flowers and a broad palate that fills the mouth but does not weigh it down. Impeccable wood dosage, you can feel the altitude and the Mediterranean, it really has it all. 50
>Friuli Isonzo Chardonnay Glesie ’18
98 97 96
Vie di Romans
Mariano del Friuli (GO)
The Gallo family in their indepth work on the various estate crus gave rise to the Climat project, six wines from six plots, vinified separately but using the same technique. The Chardonnay Glesie ‘18, from the Vie di Romans vineyard, matures 18 months on the lees and two years in the bottle. A white of extreme elegance, where the fruit-wood combination is expressed with unequalled finesse. 65
>Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Di-Vèrto ’22
Torre dei Beati
Loreto Aprutino (PE)
Half a hectare of vineyard in Francavilla al Mare surrounded by woods; a 25-year-old marquee on fierce slopes. This is the cradle of Diverto, a multifaceted, mineral, brackish and Mediterranean Trebbiano. What is most striking, however, is the sip, endowed with great tension and vitality, like few other Trebbiano tasted in the region. 20. 20
>Vin de la Neu ’22
Resistenti Nicola Biasi Predaia (TN)
This is Nicola Biasi’s first step in the Piwi cultivation project in the Trentino Dolomites: it comes from a vineyard at an altitude of 1,000 metres and the Johanniter vine. It offers a multifaceted aromatic profile of rosemary, wisteria, eucalyptus and mountain herbs, which together with an intense, gritty and savoury palate highlights the potential of this variety. 110
>Kamen Vitovska ’20 >AV 01 Catarratto Orange ’22
Zidarich
Duino Aurisina (TS)
Beniamino Zidarich in his underground cellar has included a local stone tank to vinify a single wine, Vitovska Kamen (stone in Slovenian), which comes from the vineyards surrounding the winery. It is savoury and taut, iodised, with a scent of the sea and Mediterranean scrub, and in the mouth it has pulp, peel and citrus zest. A profound wine, yet endowed with unforgettable radiance. 45
Rallo Marsala (TP)
AV 01 is a selection of catarrato grapes that undergoes maceration on the skins. This year’s production was further reduced, but given the quality of the wine we cannot fail to mention it here. The notes of orange blossom, beeswax and wild daisy are echoed on the palate, with a light but integrated tannic sensation that fades into a slight bitter note. 5,20
>Campo delle Oche Integrale (Magnum) ’18
Fattoria San Lorenzo Montecarotto (AN)
Integrale differs from its namesake Campo delle Oche because it is aged for 48 months and bottled with fine lees only in magnums. The 2018 condenses all the brightness, energy, and vitality of Natalino Crognaletti’s style: veiled, it has hints of straw, almond, and ripe apple, held together by a thread of volatile, while in the mouth it is full-bodied, alcoholic, and boundless. 75
>Roero Arneis Giuan Da Pas ’15
95 94 93
Pace Canale (CN)
Roero Arneis Giuan da Pas is a wine that is vinified and matured for several months on fine lees in steel, but only leaves the cellar after ten years of bottle ageing. The 2015 version is rich on the nose, with hints of yellow peach, candied citron and white pepper, and has a palate that is firm, enveloping and pleasant, and a long finish that closes on citrus notes. 42
>Carso Malvasia Dileo Ris. ’22
Castelvecchio Sagrado (GO)
Dileo is a strict selection of Malvasia grapes from a small plot that best expresses the Karst terroir. The aromas are intense, the aromatic part of the vine offers hints of yellow flesh fruit, aromatic herbs, wild flowers and sweet spices. The palate is ample, the volume can be felt, but then it is the savouriness that dominates the sip for a clean, deep finish. 20
>Pian di Stio Evoluzione ’19
San Salvatore 1988
Giungano (SA)
The Fiano that gives life to Evoluzione comes from the careful selection of grapes from the Stio vineyard. Fermentation and maturation take place in barriques and the result is a white wine of great olfactory layering: citrus notes cross spicy, vaguely smoky sensations. The taste is solid, harmonious and with great acid-soap tension. 35
>Sicut Erat Vermentino ’22
95 94 93
La Contralta
Loiri Porto San Paolo (SS)
There is the expert hand of Roberto Gariup, an experienced oenologist of Friulian origin, but a Sardinian by now. He has chosen the road of maceration to express the best of Gallura through Vermentino. Here then is Sicut Erat, a wine of great charm, complex and persistent, with a bubbly and savoury drink, long progression and depth. 38
>Collio Friulano Miklus Francesco ’19
Draga - Miklus
San Floriano del Collio (GO)
A very limited production from vineyards over 60 years old: it expresses the subsoil and climate of the area to perfection. An ample nose with fruity, floral and spicy aromas anticipates a full palate, with great freshness and remarkable persistence, where the impeccably executed maceration on the skins gives rhythm and flavour. 37
>Etna Rosso
San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe ’21
Girolamo Russo Castiglione di Sicilia (CT)
One of the greatest wines tasted this year. It is the Piano delle Colombe, a small parcel within the San Lorenzo cru. We are on the northern slopes of the volcano, the vine is nerello mascalese and here we are faced with a champion. Bloody, ferrous notes of underbrush and pepper on the nose anticipate a graceful, flowing, very fresh and deep sip. A masterpiece.160
>Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Bragantino ’19
Monteraponi Radda in Chianti (SI)
The Bragantino does not betray expectations with this new vintage, characterised by a magical gracefulness. It is released in a very limited number, matures 42 months in 10-hectolitre barrels and is characterised by an extraordinary elegance and ease of drinking. Incredible then the stylistic precision and sharpness of the fruit, for a fresh and vibrant finish in the sign of the Raddese spirit. 300
>Valtellina Sup. Inferno V. Guast ’21
Dirupi Ponte in Valtellina (SO)
The terraced vineyards of chiavennasca in the Inferno area of Valtellina are emblematic of heroic viticulture. The Guast ‘21 offers intense notes of fresh raspberry, liquorice and tobacco on the nose. The palate has outstanding pulp and freshness with elegant and refined tannins that give weight to the long finish. 35,30
>Cannonau di Sardegna Franzisca Ris. ’21
Giovanni Montisci Mamoiada (NU)
Giovanni Montisci is a great winemaker from Mamoiada and Franzisca is his Cannonau from the oldest small vineyard he owns. A few bottles but one of the best wines for the type. The aromas are clearly Mediterranean, with sensations of maquis and myrtle in evidence. The mouth is smooth, fluid, but certainly not lacking in complexity and depth. 90
>Etna Rosso Signum Aetnae ’15
98 97 96
Firriato Paceco (TP)
A great red that several years after the harvest expresses itself in elegant balsamic, root, cocoa and pot-pourri notes, then declines into fig, carob and mulberry jam. In the mouth, it expresses envelopment and a soft tannicity that ends with a warm, savoury finish, like the black sands in which this centenary nerello mascalese pre-harvest has its roots. 134,40
>Barolo Bussia Briccotto ’20
Domenico Clerico Monforte d’Alba (CN)
Only nine rows of vines for a great red wine that comes from the Briccotto parcel of the Bussia Soprana cru. The first vintage was 1978 and since then it has only been produced in the best vintages. The 2020 expresses beautiful red fruit to which notes of tobacco and liquorice are added to give complexity and character. The palate is pulpy and the finish very long. Not to be missed. 135
98 97 96
>Cinabro ’20
Le Caniette Ripatransone (AP)
Made from pure Grenache grapes, Cinnabar ‘20 is a magnetic blend of sour cherries, pepper, aromatic herbs and Mediterranean scrub, and as the minutes go by, new nuances emerge: smoky traces, a hint of cocoa, dry hay. On the palate it has graceful movements, silky tannins and precisely conveys all its colourful aromatic complexity. 92
>Habemus Cabernet Et. Rossa ’21
San Giovenale Blera (VT)
The Habemus Cabernet ‘21, made from cabernet franc grapes from a vineyard of just under one hectare planted to a density of over 13,000 vines, is full-bodied and balanced on the nose, where it displays aromas of black fruits, rhubarb, graphite and coffee, for a full-bodied and balanced palate, enveloping and long thanks to its savoury note and robust acidity. 110
>Eleuteria Special Edition in Anfora ’20
Tenuta del Travale Rovito (CS)
A real gem. We are over 500 metres above sea level in Sila: the nerello mascalese grapes are fermented whole cluster and then aged over 20 months in cocciopesto. Ethereal and iridescent nose, with floral and orange peel aromas: little weight and lots of tannic finesse. Light and perfectly rhythmic, it closes on delicious notes of black tea and gentian. 150
>Cannonau
>Langhe Rosso Seifile ’20
Fiorenzo Nada Treiso (CN)
The austerity of Nebbiolo meets the composite vitality of Barbera from very old vineyards. The nose is inviting, articulated by hints of raspberry, currant and undergrowth that veers towards sensations of liquorice, tobacco and smoky tones. The mouth is no less: a rich, velvety sip in which freshness and a measured savouriness give a deep, persistent palate. 80
>A.
di Sardegna Ghirada Zi’Spanu ’22
Giuseppe Sedilesu Mamoiada (NU)
First vintage for this wonderful cru that perfectly embodies the Mamoiadino terroir. Only a thousand bottles but with great character: the aromas range from red fruit to spices, from wet earth to a touch of resin. The mouth is ample, warm, the volume is there, but the savouriness and acidity perfectly balance a sip of enormous depth. 25,70
>Barolo Bussia V. Colonnello ’17
Bussia Soprana Monforte d’Alba (CN)
The Colonello vineyard covers just 0.5 hectares with old vines over seventy years old. Let’s put it bluntly: the ‘17 is a jaw-dropping vintage. The nose offers a multifaceted, iridescent profile of rose, liquorice and tobacco aromas. The palate is elegant, textural, and looms over sweet tannins and an interminable finish. 90
A. Santa Maddalena Cl. V. Rondell R ’22
Glögglhof - Franz Gojer Bolzano/Bozen
Rather than a new Santa Maddalena in the Gojer house, we should speak of a new vision of this Atesine typology. A wine that, without renouncing to an easy and savoury drinkability, offers an aromatic profile of great refinement, where the red fruit is accompanied by intense officinal and spicy suggestions that we find in a dynamic and long sip. 48
>Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. La Fabriseria Ris. ’16
95 94 94
F.lli Tedeschi
San Pietro in Cariano (VR)
The La Fabriseria vineyard extends between 430 and 500 metres above sea level. It is from here that the Tedeschi brothers, in the presence of perfect harvests, obtain a handful of bottles of Amarone of extraordinary richness and depth: the sweet red fruit finds support in the spicy and salty presence, while on the palate the exuberance is kept at bay by the tannic texture that gives rigour and grit. 226,80
>Be Luna
’22
Bentu Luna Neoneli (OR)
Be Luna is the quintessence of ancient vines, planted decades ago. The vineyard has the classic Mandrolisai composition, with bovale and cannonau predominating and the balance of monica. The wine smells of ripe red fruit, it does not lack a spicy touch, the taste is creamy, enveloping and ample, there is no lack of warmth, but everything is made harmonious by an incredible sapidity. 110
>Barbaresco Roncaglie ’21
Mura Mura Montegrosso d’Asti (AT)
From the Cru in the Barbaresco area comes this wine with a nose of great finesse and complexity. Floral and fruity notes of blueberry, currant and violet blend with nuances of aniseed. An elegant nose blends with a pulpy, fresh palate of great density, but balanced by a vivid freshness. It closes on rarefied spicy notes of great persistence. 73
>Barbaresco Gallina Ris. ’19
95 94 94
Ugo Lequio Neive (CN)
A few bottles from selected grapes from the historic cru in the commune of Neive. The nose is distinguished by delicacy, intensity and character. Gentle notes of red berries and fresh roses intertwine with a delicate spiciness. The palate is balanced and harmonious with docile and perfectly integrated tannins that give depth to the long finish. 73
>Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana
Acereta ’21
Mutiliana Modigliana (FC)
Giorgio Melandri aims at great wines, true interpreters of the Modigliana terroir. Three Romagna Sangiovese wines are produced, one for each valley. Acereta is a great red, graceful, elegant, juicy, complex to the nose, with a vertical taste development, with light tannins well integrated with the matter and exemplary freshness. 21,80
>VdA
Pinot Noir Pierre ’21
>Malvasia
>VdA Chambave Muscat Flétri ’22 94 96
Cave Gargantua Gressan (AO)
A great wine from a small winery in the Aosta Valley. Pierre is a Pinot Noir, which is born between 550 and 750 metres above sea level. The nose expresses typical mountain scents, from pleasant fruity notes to fresh wild strawberries, with floral and spicy nuances. Remarkably structured in the mouth, balanced by elegant tannins, it has a long and pleasant finis 42
di Bosa Ris. ’17
Columbu Bosa (OR)
Columbu is an absolute reference for Malvasia and the company enjoys the enlightened ideas of Giovanni Battista, the founder. Now the company is run by his son Gian Michele and his wife Vanna Mazzon. The Riserva 2017 is truly great: complex on the nose with notes of dried fruit and sponge cake, incredible on the palate for savouriness and a textbook saline freshness. . 50,40
95
La Vrille Verrayes (AO)
Only 900 bottles, but pure pleasure for this Muscat Flétri, which smells of sultanas, dried apricots, acacia honey to which floral hints and a touch of herbaceousness are added. In the mouth, the structure is not lacking, but it is the acidity that makes the difference: the sip is smooth and the finish is clean, slightly sweet, very tasty but above all deep 40,30
>Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana Area 66 ’22
Menta e Rosmarino Modigliana (FC)
This small and promising winery from Romagna made its debut in the Guide last year, and this year their Area 66 is included in the small circle of great Rare Wines. We are talking about a red wine of great elegance, with hints of red fruit, a touch of spice and a faint scent of undergrowth. The flavour is fine, the sip is rhythmic and the finish is clean and long. 21
>Vin Santo di Carmignano ’15
93 96 95
Fattoria Ambra Carmignano (PO)
Beppe Rigoli harvests ripe Trebbiano and San Colombano grapes from old vineyards and leaves them to dry until January. Then it ferments slowly and matures for six years in kegs. And one more year in glass. The result? A velvety sweet magic, with tones of dried fruits, ‘rancio’, spices and candied citrus fruits, of extraordinary complex depth. A sip of infinity. 25
>Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori Ris. ’79
Attilio Contini Cabras (OR)
Drinking a wine that is almost fifty years old is always exciting, especially when you realise that its life could still be very long. It happens when you taste a Vernaccia and especially Antico Gregori an incredible Riserva. The aromas are many, ranging from iodine sensations to dry fruit, from wild flowers to incense and spices. 84
>Moscato Passito al Governo di Saracena ’15
Feudo dei Sanseverino Saracena (CS)
Here there is not only olfactory complexity and a perfect palate, here there is the rediscovery of an ancient wine, the pleasure of a glass to sip, the excitement of trying it slowly and seeing how it changes minute by minute. A wine, in short, not only to be relegated to the end of a meal for pairing with dessert, but a bottle to open on all the great occasions of life. 33,50
>Moscato di Saracena Passito ’21
98 95 94
Luigi Viola Saracena (CS)
This is our Sweet Wine of the Year. It surprises with a broad, multifaceted nose of candied fruit, citron and dried fruit, jasmine, orange blossom, aromatic and officinal herbs, and then brioche and sweet spices. It is fresh, harmonious on the palate, balanced between acidity and fruit and carries a very long aromatic persistence 45
>Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito Lina ’22
Santa Barbara Barbara (AN)
Lina ‘22 is a passito with an intensely golden guise. In the glass, it reveals a copious glyceric richness, confirmed by a palate with a dense concentration of sugar, persuasive in expressing an accomplished and very long honey memory, accompanied by candied orange peel, toasted almonds and aniseed, with subtle references to thyme and saffron. 30
Primitivo di Manduria
Dolce Naturale Docg
The ultimate holiday season wine
When the festive season approaches, the table is transformed into a stage of fragrances, colours and special flavours, with sweets playing the starring role. Every dish becomes a work of culinary art, down to the smallest detail, while the warmth of Christmas lights envelops the room in an atmosphere of joy and conviviality. But to make these festivities unforgettable, wine is certainly not to be missed, accompanying and enriching each course, turning meals into memorable experiences, full of toasts and smiles. In this festive context, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG emerges as an enveloping and intense wine, perfect for celebrating the essence of Christmas.
A UNIQUE DESSERT WINE
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Docg is a dessert wine that pairs beautifully with dry pastries, such as pastries, biscuits and tarts. Imagine serving a jam tart accompanied by a glass of this nectar: the sweetness of the wine blends harmoniously with the freshness of the red fruit, creating a sublime
Thanks to the drying process that takes place in the vineyard, on the vines, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale preserves intensity and complexity, characteristics that make it a unique wine in Italy
combination. But that’s not all: this wine is also an excellent partner for dark chocolate, creating combinations that delight the palate and enrich every festive moment. The intensity of the chocolate balances perfectly with the intriguing sweetness of the naturally sweet Primitivo di Manduria, making every bite a true sensory journey. In this festive season, there is no better choice to enrich Christmas tables. Whether it is an intimate dinner or a large party, a glass of Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale will enchant guests and make every moment special, bringing with it the essence of Apulia and its wine tradition.
A HISTORY OF EXCELLENCE
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Docg is the sweet red wine par excellence made in Puglia. Recognised as the first DOCG in Apulia in 2011, it is the only one of the four DOCGs dedicated exclusively to a sweet red wine. Despite the success of its ‘dry brothers’, such as Primitivo di Manduria Doc and Primitivo di Manduria Doc Riserva, Dolce Naturale boasts a special place among Italian wines. With its colossal structure, it has charm and substance, and is characterised by an intriguing sweetness.
THE ENCHANTMENT BEGINS IN THE VINEYARD
The magic of this wine already begins in the vineyard, between the rows, where the drying of the grapes on the vine is a fundamentally important step. This process, essential to preserve the grapes from crushing, only takes place in the Primitivo di Manduria area. The grapes thus reach the right level of natural drying thanks to the sun and the currents of the Ionian Sea, losing about 50% of their water content. This drying process gives the wine its complexity and intensity, making it unique on the Italian wine scene.
The Primitivo dii Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG is characterised by drying the grapes on the vine, unlike raisin wines that use fruit lofts. This method enhances the fruity notes and creates an extraordinary final product. The wine stands out for its intense red colour, with nuances tending towards garnet. On the nose, it is characterised by a broad and complex bouquet that at times reveals hints of plums, dried figs and ripe red fruits. This breadth is confirmed in the flavour, which is sweet, velvety and characteristic.
A PROTECTED AND RECOGNISED WINE
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Docg is protected by the Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria (Consortium for the Protection of Primitivo di Manduria), which has been given the task of coordinating the functions of protection, promotion and valorisation of this extraordinary wine by the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry Policies. This ‘Erga Omnes’ recognition guarantees that Primitivo di Manduria is only marketed if it complies with the strict criteria laid down in the production specifications. Today, the Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria brings together a team of 274 wineries and 4,890 winegrowers, producing around 19 million bottles annually and generating a turnover of 152 million euros. This success is the result of collective work that highlights the quality and authenticity of Primitivo di Manduria.
THE SUCCESS OF A GREAT WINE
The nobility of Primitivo di Manduria is the result of an exceptional combination of factors: the area’s unique pedoclimatic environment, the variety of grapes and the winemaking techniques handed down by local winegrowers. In recent decades,
thanks to constant efforts to ensure low yields and careful vinification in the cellar, Primitivo di Manduria has reached new heights of intensity, power, elegance and finesse. The production area covers 18 municipalities between the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi and includes three types: Primitivo di Manduria Doc, Primitivo di Manduria Doc Riserva and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale Docg. The Consortium for the Protection of Primitivo di Manduria plays a crucial role in promoting and safeguarding its PDO, monitoring its quality and authenticity.
One of the most significant steps in this direction was the introduction of the ‘state seall’ from 2023, applied to bottles of Primitivo di Manduria Doc and Doc Riserva. This measure guarantees the traceability of the product, ensuring that it complies with the strict production standards set out in the specifications. In addition to protecting the brand, the Consortium is active in promoting Primitivo di Manduria internationally. By participating in trade fairs, tastings and specialised events, it is committed to spreading knowledge and appreciation for this wine, which has become one of the oenological symbols of Apulia throughout the world. Thanks to these initiatives, Primitivo di Manduria is increasingly asserting itself as an ambassador of excellence, representing not only a high quality product but also the culture and tradition of an area rich in history.
Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria
Doc e Docg
Manduria (TA)
fraz. Uggiano Montefusco c.da Piscine
099 9796696
consorziotutelaprimitivo.com f consorzioprimitivodimanduria $consorzioprimitivodimanduria # primitivodimanduriadop
If you say Syrah, you say Cortona
In recent years, the denomination has grown in quantity and above all in quality. Stefano
Amerighi: «We aim to conquer the world»
by Divina Vitale
Climate change, a crisis in wine sales also linked to inflation as well as ongoing wars, alarm bells ringing out on several fronts: it is not exactly a positive scenario that is in evidence in the wine sector worldwide. And yet, it is precisely when the going gets tough that the tough get going. And so it is for a small Tuscan appellation like Cortona DOC, which is determined to leave its mark on the history of Italian viticulture and which, at the moment, has to make the biggest leap, opening up to the world and international markets.
Rhone in Tuscany
The territory is a French enclave, a small Rhone Valley in the land of Tuscany, where syrah clearly dominates unchallenged. The soils of the Val di Chiana, of a predominantly clayey matrix with the presence of silt, sand and schist, have proved excellent for a grape variety that does not like soils rich in limestone. In the space of a few decades, from the time of the establishment of the Consorzio di Tutela at the dawn of the new millennium, Syrah has become the symbol of Cortona, with an average production of high quality that has
triggered a virtuous circle, driving even niche productions based on different varieties, from Sangiovese to the most famous international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the vineyards registered as DOC cover a total area of 400 hectares for a production of about 450 thousand bottles per year. Syrah wine accounts for 80% of bottled wine.
Syrah in Cortona
There are numerous reports on the arrival of this grape variety and its origins. According to the most accredited testimonies, its progenitors are French: a genomic study of its DNA leads it to the Rhone river valley. The claim of origin by other localities (such as, for example, the city of Syracuse in Italy) would instead derive from erroneous transcriptions of the vine's name made over the centuries (on this subject, much information can be found in specialised texts on agriculture kept in the La Vigna library in Vicenza).
It is thought that one of the first people to bring syrah to Tuscany was Giulio Magnani, at that time owner of the Fattoria Marchi Magnani (later to become Cantina Mazzini). Around 1870, he set off for France to study
The Syrah vines that are Cortona’s calling card: the town of Arezzo on the horizon
Stefano Amerighi: leading a handful of visionary vignerons who are changing Cortona
the grape varieties and winemaking techniques beyond the Alps. He then went to the Bordeaux area and from there brought Sauvignon, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to Montecarlo. Again, he brought back from the Rhone area the Roussanne and Syrah and from Burgundy the Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Those wines from Fattoria Marchi Magnani (especially the whites that, combined with the local Trebbiano, were known as ‘the Tuscan Chablis’) accompanied the royal wedding of Prince Umberto di Savoia and Maria Josè at the Quirinale in 1930. The
appearance of Syrah-based wines in Cortona, however, is only attested from the 1960s onwards when some important wineries, finding traces of it in their vineyards (Tenimenti d'Alessandro, Antinori, Avignonesi), decided to resume its cultivation and to develop more in-depth investigations into its genomic origin.
Professor Scienza
With the help of Professor Attilio Scienza and the University of Milan, meticulous research was carried out in the early 1970s on the characteristics of the soil and climate in the Cortona area. At the end of this study and research, a so-called ‘experimental’ vineyard was planted, where different varieties and
Growth as per the Consortium data
Processing data from the Consorzio Vini di Cortona, relating to harvests and bottling for the last five years (from 2019 to 2023), shows that the quintals of grapes claimed by members in 2023 amounted to 6,792 quintals, down from 2022, which had stood out as a record year for production.
On the bottling front, figures reveal that in 2020 and 2021 there were 20 bottlers to which a new one was added in 2023. Although, as mentioned, there was a small step backwards compared to 2022, there was a big leap upwards compared to the 2020 and 2021 vintages, which had only 17 bottlers and 1,949 hectolitres bottled). Something the Consortium is proud of and which shows an active and substantially growing winegrowing network. This trend is also evident in the growth in the representativeness of the Consortium that protects the DOC, given that in 2019 there were 35 producers (out of 52) reporting their grapes, while in 2023 there were 33 producers but out of 48: a growth in terms of proportions.
clones of syrah were planted in order to identify which of these best identified with the local microclimate. During this study, the similarity of the Cortona climate with that of the Rhone coast was also highlighted.
Syrah and the market
In general, 70% of production has an Italian market and the remaining 30% goes abroad, except in isolated cases. In the last three years, what is clear from the producers' testimonies is that there has been an operation to retain existing customers. Some companies, however, have also increased sales by up to 10% in recent years. On the other hand, the market in European countries such
as Germany is stable; some positive signs have been recorded in the USA and the UK. Expanding is the East with Singapore and Hong Kong, while for some wineries the development of sales in Taiwan and Thailand is interesting. What counted most, especially after the passage of Covid, was knowing how to adapt on the part of producers who made an effort to make their reality dynamic, perhaps losing out on one side but discovering new commercial outlets in which there was skill in positioning themselves.
The style change
Positive data also linked to the observation that the most incisive change in the style of this wine, all in all young, has come in the last 10 years and that it has only asserted itself forcefully in the last 5 thanks to a group of visionary producers led by Stefano Amerighi who has even managed to win the cover of the Revu du Vin de France. Its Syrah was photographed alongside the world's most important such as Domaine Jean-Louis Chave's Hermitage, and the Syrahs of Domaine Jamet Cote Rotie, Pierre Gonon, Alain Graillot and Cornas Clape, just to name the best known from the Rhone. A great accolade for Italy, but above all for Cortona, which Amerighi himself, the ‘bohemian spirit’ of Tuscan wine at the head of the appellation, has managed to lead to the top of the international podium alongside the great terroirs of the ‘Syrah du monde’.
Cortona produces in an area with many facets, above all human, with producers who are nonetheless determined to leave a mark of presence and maturity. Study, research, experimentation and a great deal of passion have meant that the tendency to make powerful wines with sometimes exasperated maturation, concentration and excessive use of new wood has been somewhat abandoned and that the winegrowers have instead chosen to proceed with more personal interpretations in which the fruit plays a more central role and in which sharpness, precision, vitality, vibrant progressions on the palate and juicy tannins are favoured.
Certainly, climate change has had and continues to have a very important impact on this area, with significant heat peaks and less and less generous rainfall alongside unpredictable and calamitous events that in the last two years have begun to worryingly affect various parts of Tuscany. Syrah, however, is holding its own and proving to be a more autonomous vine, almost ‘prepared’ for more extemporaneous reactions and responding rather well to increasingly inevitable stresses. Vineyard management, as in all cases of good viticultural conduct, now makes more and more of a difference: where one acts with preparation and care, good results come out strongly in the wines.
The future of Cortona
«I would like us to put aside the Tuscan spirit of wanting everything and everything now in this challenge,’
A bunch of Syrah grapes: the varietal was brought to Cortona in the late 19th century, but itìs only been a few years since it has become a symbol of the terroir
explains Stefano Amerighi, who is also the president of Doc Cortona. "If you don't suffer, you can't aspire to make blues," said a dear friend of mine. This is precisely the consideration that must concern and motivate us. We still need a lot of enthusiasm because the moment is discouraging: in addition to international problems, the world drinks less, there is more attention to health in the new generation, and there are many other variables to take into account. However, on our side, we have the good fortune of being small artisans and this
can only help us». Isn't too fractioned size a limitation? «Fundamental,» Amerighi replies, «is to understand how committed the territory is to further growth. We winegrowers are few and there are few hectares. The greatest achievement of the last few years, however, has been the fact that so many winemakers have started making wine and that we are producing more DOCG and less IGT: a real heroic journey if you think that we started with Bianco Vergine di Valdichiana. The intuition was to take the direction of singlevarietal, alongside blends, with a path of decisive territorial characterisation and high quality levels. We are designing an engine that is shifting gears: the first one has been engaged, now let's see the development. Tenimenti
D'Alessandro, Antinori, Avignonesi have given an important impulse. When our DOC was born, many others emerged, but not all of them had our strength. Cortona managed to have a turnaround and each company started out on its own path also because there was no real model to follow. This led, from 2019, to a greater concentration on Syrah production with new strength and energy. Now there is a need to look to the future: central is the internationalisation of the denomination. It is a long-term project, it will take decades, but I am positive: if we work cohesively, those who will come after us will be able to reap the benefits. And when one thinks of the great Italian syrah, one will automatically think of Cortona».
11 labels Cortona’s new skin
97
>Cortona Syrah
Serine ’20
Stefano Amerighi Cortona (AR)
A wine that is a message to the entire denomination of how the expression of a Tuscan syrah can reach Rhodesian levels. Fascinating, it is told with hints of rose and peach blossom, blueberry, dehydrated apricot and citrusy splashes of blood orange. Taut, dynamic, with great character. With a salinity that gives the flavour incredible frankness and depth. Refined and jovial.
96
>Cortona Syrah
Castagnino ’23
Fabrizio Dionisio Cortona (AR)
Castagnino ‘23 immediately enchants with its aromatic brilliance, delivering a glass of great freshness, with crisp and very clear fruit. Raspberry and wild strawberry stand out, developing in a sip determined by great juiciness and excellent progression. A wine of great modernity and excellent drinkability.
Campetone ’21 95 94 92
>Cortona Syrah
Villa Passerini ’21
Cantina Canaio Cortona (AR)
A cru of enlightening vision, it has a sophisticated opening on the palate where it shows its elegant character, rich in fragrant and spicy spices to which juicy small fruits such as currant and pomegranate are added. It has the strength of pulp and a dynamic of extreme delicacy that condense with harmony.
>Cortona Syrah Terrasolla ’21
Cantina Canaio Cortona (AR)
Black side for this Syrah that smells of earth and rose petal, rustic and refined, with remarkable personality. It has a nice grip on the palate, good ripe fruit and is smooth and well-profiled. The tannin is handled very well and the wine becomes deep and long lasting.
>Cortona Syrah
Il Fitto Cortona (AR)
Ripe and dark in fruit and flowers, blueberry, wild blackthorn, violet and red rose. Dominated by excellent pulp, its structure and power are handled with great balance and rigour. The strength of the sip is full of vitality and guarantees a loose development and bright overall dynamics.
>Cortona Syrah Linfa ’22 95 94 92
>Cortona Syrah ’21
Stefano Amerighi Cortona (AR)
Light and intense on the nose, it releases pleasant floral aromas such as violet, lavender and iris. Savoury and spicy with bright notes of black pepper. It is lively and expressive, with a delicate envelopment in the mouth where it retains depth, pulp and fine progression. Savoury, persistent, it offers a splendid final savoury trail.
>Cortona Syrah Ris. ’19
Poggio Sorbello Cortona (AR)
Characterised on the nose by hints of small, refreshing fruits such as strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant, it is a very juicy wine with eloquent ease and immediacy on the palate. An expression of all-drinking syrah that has its greatest strength in the freshness of the fruit.
Fabrizio Dionisio Cortona (AR)
It comes from a selection of vines where the estate’s other crus are made and macerates on the skins for a few months in terracotta jars, then again in cement. Craftsmanship and dexterity lie behind this forthright and genuine interpretation of Syrah, with tones of cherry and Mediterranean bush. Vibrant on the palate.
95 93 90
>Cortona Syrah
Crano ’20
Baldetti
Cortona (AR)
The flagship label of the winery led by the two brothers Gianluca and Daniele Baldetti has a bold, contemporary style. Crano is a juicy, casual and slender syrah, enveloping and rich in nuances. A wine that is a crescendo in the glass, releasing sinuous and pleasant mineral scratches on the finish.
>Arenite ’20
Baldetti Cortona (AR)
It comes from a selection of vines where the estate’s other crus are made and macerates on the skins for a few months in terracotta jars, then again in cement. Craftsmanship and dexterity lie behind this forthright and genuine interpretation of Syrah, with tones of cherry and Mediterranean bush. Vibrant on the palate.
>Cortona Syrah Poggilunghi ’22
Il Fitto
Cortona (AR)
It comes from the estate’s youngest vineyards and shows vivid traits with balsamic tints and fragrance of small fruits; it is savoury and very tasty on the finish. It is aged in cement for 12 months and this gives it a certain vivacity and good dynamics and rhythm on the palate. It is energetic and pleasantly drinkable.
Bellovedere, a great red that defies time and encapsulates Abruzzo
La Valentina was established in Spoltore, in the Pescara hills, in 1990, but it was in 1994 that the brothers Sabatino, Roberto and Andrea acquired full ownership. Today, their vineyards extend over more than 40 hectares: the winery is surrounded by vineyards, but these are also joined by those in other vocated areas of the province, such as Loreto Aprutino, Moscufo, Civitella Casanova; then there are those at the foot of the Maiella, in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore and in Scafa, where we also find the Binomio vineyard, which gives life to the wine of the same name, born from the Di Properzios’ collaboration with the Veneto-based Inama family. La Valentina’s vineyards are managed organically with great attention to sustainability: no pesticides, desiccants or synthetic products are used here. Respect for nature is utmost, as is attention to renewable energy sources and water consumption, and continuous staff training. The varieties cultivated are the classic ones of the Abruzzi tradition, with the place of honour for Montepulciano, which is declined in several versions, from the Classica line to the Spelt selections, where we find it again with Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, the full-bodied and fragrant rosé of tradition, to the sophisticated Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and with the Riserva. There is no lack of Pecorino in the assortment, but a new label has recently arrived, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Dochèio, vinified in amphora. An absolutely prestigious range, in short, where, however, a special selection, originating from the
Under the supervision of Luca D’Attoma, comes a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that’s the result of a very careful selection and meticulous experimentation.
vineyard adjacent to the company centre, is the iconic label. This is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere: a great red wine from old vines and long experimentation, which is only produced in the best vintages. The vineyard is now almost fifty years old. It is cultivated with the traditional Abruzzi pergola system, and has its roots in a clayey soil of medium texture. We are at an altitude of 200 metres, the happy south-southeast exposure ensures excellent sunshine, while the age ensures a very low yield, around 40 hectolitres per hectare. Harvesting is by hand, in boxes. Selection of the grapes is followed by fermentation in truncated conical wooden vats. The wine then matures for a year and a half partly in barriques, partly in tonneaux, partly in cement vats and partly, again, in the same fermentation vats. Under the supervision of Luca D’Attoma, who has always been a consultant to the Di Properzio family, the wine is finally blended and bottled. The wine will only leave the cellar after a further year of bottle ageing.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere Ris. 2021
It is extraordinarily rich in this youthful phase. It has a deep colour, a nose that is haematic and ferrous on the attack, then juicy, with beautiful notes of red and black fruits, ranging from cherry juice to mulberry. The palate already appears relaxed, savoury and progressive. It is exuberant
with pulp, rich but not heavy, and displays sweet, well extracted tannins. It is rich in acid backbone, and promises longevity and complexity. Rich, dynamic, long: we will be talking about it for years...
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere Ris. 2019
Relaxed and fresh on the nose, it denotes a delicate extraction: it is a wine of refined elegance, somehow subtle but taut, firm and rich at the same time. The bouquet is of officinal and mountain herbs, with a floral touch. Then currant, raspberry, wild strawberry and a slight smoky, graphite tone. The palate has something austere on the attack, but then unfolds elegant, harmonious and above all fresh. The wine is savoury and pulpy, the cherry returns, but the whole is fresh and balanced. It closes long and fresh on balsamic and menthol notes.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere Ris. 2016
It still has a spectacular richness of colour; the nose offers notes of small fruits, cherry and morello cherry, sour cherry, then delicate vegetal components, ripe hay, and finally graphite. The mouth is really elegant, relaxed, fine, apparently subtle but with great character. It is a deep, decisive, already harmonious wine, in an adult phase of its life. The palate is ample, the tannins of extraordinary extraction and very fine astringency; the final spiciness is delicate, under the sign of clove.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere Ris. 2013
The nose offers ripe black fruit that veers into classic iron and still haematic notes, then laurel, artemisia and undergrowth, autumnal, porcini mushroom tones. The palate is assertive, savoury and dense, and denotes a balance of soft sweetness, which once again develops elegantly on the fruit tones.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Terre dei Vestini Bellovedere Ris. 2010
This vintage inaugurates the sub-denomination of the DOCG that tells of the area of the province of Pescara most influenced by the Mediterranean climate. Surprisingly compact in colour, it has a very solid body that is never heavy; angular at times, it is soft, savoury and sweet, varietal and above all deep. The finish is very long, delicately astringent and taut.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Bellovedere Ris. 2008
A wine of absolute charm, starting with its deep, dark ruby colour. On the nose there is cinchona calissaia, peppermint and aniseed, then turmeric, notes of puer tea and undergrowth, cocoa bean. The mouth is of surprising vitality and great lightness: it is a harmonious and dynamic wine. It is rich and extractive in its material richness, reminiscent of the jus of baked red meats with their array of aromatic herbs. The finish is rich and spicy.
La Valentina
Spoltore (PE) via Torretta, 52 +39 085 4478158
lavalentina.it ffattorialavalentina
$flavalentina
A journey around Italy with Olio di Puglia
by Indra Galbo
The journey that has been taking Puglia Igp Olive Oil and its Consortium around Italy and the world for a couple of years now, through the Radici Virtuose project, has finally arrived in its homeland. A tour in which Gambero Rosso has accompanied the most important consortium in the world of Italian olive oil in dinners and tastings always in search of the perfect pairing, but also through events and seminars that have brought the general public closer to the knowledge of Puglia’s quality green gold.
The last stage of this journey took place from 11 to 15 November. In fact, the Consortium hosted a group of foreign buyers and journalists in Puglia to bring Igp Olio di Puglia closer to the rest of the world. A journey that brought the group of experts to experience first-hand all the stages of production of Igp Puglia Olive Oil, from the olive harvest to bottling. A fascinating journey through
the many and very different realities of the Apulian territory, involving from the smallest to the largest oil mills, all the way to the large bottling centres. A unique opportunity to understand the many facets of production that make Puglia’s oil production great. In fact, from a quantitative point of view, Apulia is the most important region of the Peninsula, with half of the national production, and is proving year after year that quality and quantity can go hand in hand, offering products that have become increasingly sought-after in Italy and around the world. A path made of valorisation of the many varietal typicalities that characterise it through indigenous cultivars such as Peranzana, Coratina, Ogliarola, Cellina di Nardò and others recently introduced such as Favolosa and Leccino.
The result is very different oils that can meet the different tastes of consumers and prove to be of great versatility in Italian kitchens. An added value,
moreover, also for all those chefs and cooks who decide to enhance the aromas of their dishes through the simplest and most immediate gesture, but never taken for granted: the final oil lap.
Day 1
The first day of the tour involved two very different companies, but which over the years have become important references for the area. In the province of Taranto, the Le Ferre company was visited, where Sara Tanzarella, in addition to explaining the production phases of extra virgin olive oil, led the experts in a tasting of three newly produced oils, subsequently combining them with vegetables and legumes. «Wow, it’s incredible how well the blend of Ogliarola, Coratina and Leccino goes with chickpea hummus. A world opened up to me with these pairings», exclaimed New Yorker guest Dominek Tubbs.
Also astonishing was the room dedicated entirely to labels, so full of references and colours that it makes your head spin, but which allows the export of the company’s products to every part of the world. The afternoon’s visit was reserved for the Pantaleo farm, a Brindisi business with a long history, where owner Luisa Pantaleo allowed visitors to witness the fascinating olive harvest in a land where majestic, centuries-old (and always productive) trees alternated with more recent plants.
Day 2
The second day allowed the foreign guests to immediately immerse themselves in the world of the large bottling industry thanks to a visit to the Finoliva plant. A facility of strategic importance at national level, equipped with an internal analysis laboratory, where about 10 thousand tons of 100% Italian oil are bottled every year. From here, in fact, come references for many large-scale distribution brands, many of which boast Organic, PDO and, of course, Olio di Puglia Igp certifications. The next stop brought the group back to a beautiful place in Bitritto, the Frantoio De Carlo. As the owner Marina De Carlo explained, this is a historic company in the area with a solid family management, which has always focused on the high quality of its production, both in terms of extra virgin olive oil (there is a whole room full of awards and recognitions to testify to this) and the pickles and preserves that are distributed in Italy and around the world. «Incredible is the difference between these oils. Moreover, all these sottoli lend themselves to an infinite number of uses and combinations in the kitchen», said Julita Strzalkowska, Polish entrepreneur in the digital
sector, in surprise.
The day ended with a visit to a small, but important cooperative in Monopoli, the Cooperativa Agricola Madonna Del Rosario, which for many years has been a reference point for small olive growers in the area, who deliver their olives here, relying on the excellent machinery and know-how of its technicians. There are around 300 members who, in addition to processing olives, can also count on carob harvesting and a sales outlet that is a hymn to the area’s typical products. A cold and rainy afternoon that was enhanced by a visit to the masseria owned by the owners, which took the guests to a real and ancient Apulian rural dwelling where they were comforted with typical local dishes and the fire in the fireplace.
Day 3
A bit of rain inaugurated the third day of the tour but did not deter guests and producers. Opening the dances on this drizzly morning was a visit to the Spagnoletti Zeuli family farm, where the young owners Valeria Sulprizio and Pierluigi Spagnoletti Zeuli recounted the family’s ancient history of oil production, showing the old production plant with its millstones and large press for the “fiscoli” (a kind of matted filter), and gave a tasting of their excellent Coratina monovarietal oil labelled with the Le 4 Contrade brand, which identifies the company’s brand name linked to the oil.
The next stop was a historical and important reality of Andria, the Guglielmi oil mill, where the very young Saverio Guglielmi, representing the third generation of this family that has always been dedicated to the art of oil production, led the group to the large and modern premises where the spaces dedicated to production are flanked by a fascinating tasting room with kitchen. «They seem to be able to combine quality and quantity. A truly impressive facility», were the words of Massimo Gasperini, one of Sweden’s most important buyers of Italian extra virgin olive oil. The last stop was an opportunity to dine at the excellent Oliolà restaurant-bruschetteria in Bisceglie where the useful was combined with the amusing: the structure, owned by the Di Molfetta family, is in fact also home to the oil mill of the same name which is located right next to the restaurant. In the autumn period, it is not uncommon to find freshly pressed oil on diners’ tables.
In addition to the company visits, there was no
shortage of opportunities for discussion and the exchange of ideas, such as the meeting at the Schinosa company of Consortium President Maria Francesca Di Martino. On the last evening, in fact, a seminar reserved for international experts took place in which panel leaders Sabrina Pupillo and Indra Galbo and oil mill owner Nicolangelo Marsicani explained the added value of using a product such as Igp Puglia Oil. It was also an important opportunity to discuss aspects related to trade and the use of oil abroad, which greatly involved guests Monika Solinska and Jan Steen, respectively a Polish buyer of quality oil and a chef and selector of gastronomic excellence from around the world, who discussed the use in kitchens and the market for these products in their countries of origin. Immediately afterwards, it was time for the conference in the company’s splendid guest room, where the debate open to the public continued.
Speaking of the tour that has just taken place, the President of the Consortium Maria Francesca Di Martino said: «The Consorzio Igp Olio di Puglia opened the doors of its companies to international operators. A three-day full immersion in our green gold to make them competent ambassadors in their countries of our precious product. I am sure that in every company visited they sensed the passion, commitment, effort and professionalism with which we dedicate ourselves to our work, proud of our extra virgin olive oil, but above all proud of our territory. Producing Igp-certified extra virgin olive oil Olio di Puglia is in fact the choice of those who produce quality and, grateful
to their territory, choose to certify the geographical origin of the product. Apulia, thanks to the beauty of its landscape and food and wine, is an international brand and the Consortium for the protection and valorisation of Igp Olio di Puglia is proud to contribute to bringing the quality of our production outside our borders.
International guests:
Dominek Tubbs
Established New York City-based digital creator specialising in food and travel-related content. With a passion for culinary adventures and storytelling, she has become a trusted resource in the city’s food scene and beyond. In 2017, she founded Dom N’ The City, a platform that features engaging storytelling, vibrant photography and honest reviews of restaurants and food-related experiences.
Massimo Gasperini
Born in Italy but based in Sweden, Massimo Gasperini works with the company Di Luca & Di Luca, which has been a market leader in bringing Italian and Mediterranean food products to the Swedish market for many years. Massimo’s business focuses particularly on the extra virgin olive oil sector, of which he is a buyer and an expert.
Monika Solinska
Founder of Evoopremium, buyer and passionate professional in the extra virgin olive oil sector. She founded the first online boutique for extra virgin olive oil in Poland. Her goal is to offer a unique selection of the world’s best olive oils.
Jan Steen
CEO of the Danish company Unikfood specialising in the sale of high-quality, gluten-free, vegan, superfood and gourmet goodies. His passion for extra virgin started with his work as a chef and continues with Unikfood for which he personally selects the best references worldwide.
Julita Strzalkowska
She runs a social media and marketing agency for restaurants, chefs and food and wine distributors in Poland. In addition to this, she is a tireless seeker of delicacies around the world. Through her website wrzacakuchnia.pl, Poland’s first social network dedicated to cooking, she offers the culinary community a platform to present and share their recipes.
Companies visited:
Le Ferre - (Castellaneta)
In the Taranto area is this young and innovative family business led by Giuseppe and Luca Esposito together with their respective families. Most of the olives used for production are bought in the area, but they also process olives from their own 4,000 olive trees. Great importance is also given to the aromatised oils available in 33 types.
Pantaleo (Fasano)
An important reality in the Brindisi area that has its roots in the 19th century, when it began a journey to enhance and standardise oil production in Apulia. Today the company is a reference point for the entire territory for olive processing. It sells pastes, jams, vegetables, cereals.
Finoliva (Bitonto)
One of the most important bottling centres in Italy for 100% Italian extra virgin olive oil. From here come bottles of PDO and PGI certified extra virgin olive oil ready to face the large national and foreign markets all over the world.
Frantoio De Carlo (Bitritto)
The De Carlo family has been on this land since 1700. Today, with 30 thousand olive trees on 130 hectares, they carry on the banner of Puglia extra virgin olive oil. Also worth mentioning is the production of table olives in brine, creams and a wide range of pickles.
Madonna Del Rosario Agricultural Cooperative (Monopoli)
An important co-operative in the Monopoli area that involves more than 300 members who deliver their olives every year. The structure was established as an oil mill in 1977, but today has two olive processing lines with modern machinery that has recently been renewed.
The 4 Contrade - Spagnoletti Zeuli (Andria)
That of Pierluigi Spagnoletti Zeuli and Valeria Sulprizio is a beautiful reality born in 1995 that counts over 200 organic hectares of which 86 are olive groves with 10,300 trees. A few years ago they created the company’s flagship line with 4
Contrade. In addition to extra virgin olive oil, they produce wine, cereals, almonds and taralli.
Frantoio Guglielmi (Andria)
For over 60 years, the Guglielmi family has been producing extra virgin olive oil in the Andria countryside. Today the estate, created by grandfather Guglielmo, is run by Riccardo and Vincenzo Guglielmi. About 200 hectares of organic olive groves, but also a large selection of local olives that are processed in the large, modern oil mill.
Frantoio Di Molfetta (Bisceglie)
The story begins in 1930, then in 1950 an oil mill was established in Trani, which soon after moved to Bisceglie and began to pursue quality.
Today, the company has 50 hectares of olive groves, about 30 of which are organic with about 7,000 trees. The oil mill next to the fine Oliolà restaurant, also owned by the Di Molfetta family, is fascinating.
Frantoio Schinosal (Trani)
Founded in 1986, the company owned by Maria Francesca Di Martino, president of the Consorzio Olio di Puglia Igp, covers 176 hectares in the Trani area with more than 30,000 olive trees. In addition to the oil mill and olive grove, there is the production of wine, cereals, vegetables, pulses and tomatoes for preserves.
Consorzio per la Tutela e la Valorizzazione dell’Olio Extravergine di Oliva a Indicazione Geografica Protetta “Olio di Puglia” radicivirtuose.it
Antica Tenuta Palombo tells the story of wine in Atina
Atina is the most important centre of the Valle di Comino, a beautiful area crossed by the Melfa river, between Sora and Cassino, close to the Abruzzo National Park. Although today we are in the province of Frosinone, this is historically the Alta Terra di Lavoro, a border area between Lazio, Abruzzo, Campania and Molise. It is a picturesque area, where viticulture has a history stretching back thousands of years. But it was in Atina that French vine varieties were introduced in the second half of the 19th century by the agronomist and industrialist Pasquale Visocchi, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, sémillon and sauvignon blanc to name but a few. A well-kept secret, which Giovanni Palombo brought back into the limelight in the 1980s by setting up his own winery. In 1995, thanks in part to his efforts, the Atina DOC was recognised, focusing on international varieties. His inheritance was taken up by the Mastrantoni family, who renovated and expanded the winery, equipping it with state-of-the-art equipment and creating an elegant reception centre, a wine shop and a gourmet restaurant of evocative beauty, overlooking the vineyards dotted with works of art by Mario Velocci, an artist of international renown, which, inserted in the landscape, vineyard and winery centre, make up the Collina Sonora. But the Mastrantonis are careful custodians of the oenological tradition of this area, and are also committed to the rediscovery of the Valley’s indigenous varieties, such as the white maturano and capolongo, and the red Lecinaro and maturano rosso, which were in danger of oblivion.
For two centuries, wine has been made here from international grapes, and in ‘95 the distinctive Doc
THE LABELS
Pier Paolo Mastrantoni entrusted the winery to Pierpaolo Pirone, oenologist, with the advice of Roberto Mazzer, oenologist and architect. The result is a complete range of labels, ranging from Amantata, a fragrant Extra Dry from falanghina grapes, to Primis, an elegant Extra Brut classic method from indigenous Lecinaro and Maturano grapes, which matures 40 months on the lees before disgorging. Elegant, fresh, taut and mineral, it opens on elegant notes of white fruit and yeasts. The Rosa Invidiata is a very pleasant rosé from Merlot grapes, creamy and rich with notes of small fruits, and the Sauvignon is rich in structure and elegant varietal notes reminiscent of tropical fruit and gooseberry. The Maturano Bianco with its dry mineral tone and fruit colouring honours this rediscovered grape, and closes on notes of fresh almond. The Merlot has a beautiful ruby colour with violet hues, and on the nose and palate it offers tones of wild berries and delicately vegetal nuances, has a slender body and nice savouriness. The Atina Cabernet, made from pure Cabernet Sauvignon, is fresh, tonic, savoury and juicy in its herbal tones, rich in fruit and noble tannins. The Atina Cabernet Riserva Duca Cantelmo enhances these qualities with a richer and deeper structure, spicy tones and vanilla hints that honour the blazon of the Atina DOC. The latest is Capralitt, an elegant Bordeaux blend matured in new wood that comes out after a very long ageing in the cellar. A great red wine, embellished with an artistic label. Atina and the beauty of the Comino Valley await.
Antica Tenuta Palombo Atina (FR) via Ponte CaponeAtina (FR) +39 0776.1666956 anticatenutapalombo.it Wine Shop& Restaurant open Friday and Saturday for dinner, Sunday for lunch fAnticaTenutaPalombo $antica_tenuta_palombo
Salento uncorked: eight journalists through the vineyards of Manduria, Salice Salentino and brindisi
For the third consecutive year, Gambero Rosso has invited a group of foreign journalists to the heart of Salento. The aim is to introduce an area of stunning beauty, its great wines, and its extra virgin olive oil to an ever-expanding international audience. This comes at a particularly significant moment in its history: the millennia-old cultivation of the olive tree, with its centuries-old plants, has been jeopardized by an irreversible disease, “Xylella Fastidiosa,” which has changed the landscape of Salento in just a few years. However, this territory has shown resilience and has rethought itself, and Radici Virtuose, a program funded by Mipaaf, aimed to demonstrate to the world that the ancient vocation of this land does not stop due to a dramatic incident. While the old olive trees make way for new resistant varieties, wine is the driving force behind local production. Thus, the three Consortia - the Primitivo di Manduria, the Salice Salentino, and Brindisiunited in the DAJS, the Ionian-Salento agricultural district, along with the Consortium of Puglia Igp
Oil, have decided to host, for the third consecutive year, a group of journalists and communicators from around the world to tell the story of the territory, its beauty, and its extraordinary products.
If you bring eight passionate wine writers for three days to visit the most significant realities of this territory, in contact with the protagonists of the wine and gastronomic scene, and if you show them the artistic and natural wonders of Salento, you will have created ambassadors who will communicate about the territory, its protagonists, its wines, and the Mediterranean charm of this land for years to come. This is what happened in the past two editions and has once again been confirmed this year.
And here are this year’s guests:
Sangmi Kim: A South Korean food and wine journalist based in Seoul, she is passionate about the Italian gastronomic scene, frequently appearing
in both industry and general media in her country, and she also focuses on wine education.
Vincent Ochieng, aka “the Captain”: From Nairobi, Kenya, he writes about travel, gastronomy, and wine, is featured on the country’s most important digital platform, and hosts popular radio programs on lifestyle, gastronomy, fashion, and culture.
Asem Tusupbayeva: A wine marketing expert and passionate taster, she lives in Almaty, Kazakhstan. She writes about food, wine, and travel for Voice Media and is active on all social media. She produces a specialized YouTube channel and has organized popular gastronomic events, tastings, and festivals for over ten years.
Mathias Gade: After years of experience in wine trading and tasting, he transitioned to publishing with the Gourmet magazine of Plaza Publishing Group. He has a remarkable passion for food and wine, experience in sommelier work, and is a great communicator and passionate gourmet.
Jessica Anne Tan: From Singapore, she is a specialized journalist collaborating with the historic trade publication SingaPoured. She has earned international diplomas, including being a certified communicator and ambassador of Italian Wine awarded by Vinitaly. Her reports cover all of Southeast Asia, and she organizes events, product
launches, and promotion of Italian wine brands. Writing about wine is her passion.
Kristy Weinz: Originally from Chicago, she now lives among the vineyards of the Willamette Valley in Oregon. An experienced judge in international competitions, she has a strong digital presence with her Kristy’s Wine Travels, collaborates with Vinohead, and is active on all social platforms. She holds a long list of international wine certifications and focuses on education. She has traveled extensively in the world’s major wine regions and has worked in various U.S. wineries.
Rolf Madsen: A Dane with over twenty years of experience in the international wine world, he is a highly regarded wine writer. His articles and books on wine have elevated the level of wine culture in Denmark. He is a member of the committees of numerous international competitions and writes for the magazine Vinexpression.
Mark Dewolf: A Canadian, Mark started as a passionate sommelier and has held prestigious positions in the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS), of which he was also president, and the ASI, the international sommelier association. He has worked for years in education and has been the director and wine writer for numerous publications. He collaborates with prestigious industry publications and organizes successful wine events in his country.
Even at the welcome dinner at Salento Winery Lodge on the eve of the three-day event, an immediate connection was established among the participants, making it clear that these eight professionals would not only make the most of every moment of their tour but would also - as has been the case - form a true “community” in constant contact over time. With one great common denominator: the love for the great wines of Salento.
Day 1: The Primitivo di Manduria
The first day was dedicated to the Primitivo di Manduria. The visit to the newly restored Masseria Samia, its vineyards, and then to the Cantine San Marzano introduced the guests to the territory and its iconic wine. The tasting of San Marzano wines elicited positive comments. Excellent labels and positive remarks on all the wines, especially the Sessantanni Rosé, made from Primitivo grapes, which “was a revelation,” as highlighted by Mathias Gade. The second stop was the Cantina Produttori di Manduria, with its fascinating museum and a series of excellent labels. Here, the Primitivo di Manduria shone in its various interpretations, described as “superlative examples of the grapes and terroir of Manduria,” but the Verdeca del Salento Alice earned “an absolute delight” from many, starting with Kristy Weinz. The afternoon unfolded with a fascinating guided tour of the Salina dei Monaci nature reserve, a precious treasure of biodiversity, discovering the typical Mediterranean flora and fauna and the fragrances that magically reappear in the wines of this land. The day concluded with a visit to Varvaglione and a gourmet dinner where the family tasted the most significant labels of the company. Here, a series of tastings of different versions of Primitivo completed a picture of surprising complexity and versatility of this wine, which can range from “imposing interpretations” in structure and richness to “fresh, savory, and balanced versions, with great drinkability,” as noted by Vincent Ochieng.
Day 2: Salice Salentino
If at the welcome dinner the Spumante Rosé version of Salice Salentino, the Brut Five Roses classic method, had already impressed, visiting the museum and the winery and tasting the wine from Moros by Claudio and Alessandra Quarta made everyone understand the potential of this great
grape. “Definitely one of the memorable tastings of this experience was the Riserva ’19,” noted Asem Tusupbayeva after tasting the Salice Salentino from the company. The next stop at the beautiful Masseria Li Veli, with its jewel-like vineyards and a range of prestigious wines, only confirmed these impressions. Verdeca Askos, Salice Salentino Pezzo Morgana, and the Passito Sir James Aleatico received applause, with the latter described as “a truly mesmerizing experience” by Mark Dewolf. The surprises didn’t end there. The view of Castello Monaci revealed more surprising characteristics of the territory, like the tasting of a Chara Chardonnay ’12 with remarkable freshness. “One of the top labels of this trip,” noted Mathias Gade. Elegant and highly drinkable, according to all, were the other labels from the company. During a delightful dinner at the “Le Scuderie” restaurant of Castello Monaci, the guests enjoyed a wide selection of Salice Salentino from other companies in the denomination.
Day 3: Brindisi
The day opened with a visit to Cantina Sampietrana. “The visit to the Apulian cooperatives was one of the revelations of this trip for many of us. Truly high-level,” observed Sangmi Kim. Here, in addition to excellent Brindisi, there was also a white version of Negroamaro, the Tacco Barocco, a wine that “surprises with its freshness and shows that this grape has a great future also as a white,”
Below, the participants in front of Masseria Li Veli
according to Rolf Madsen. Confirming this, the visit to Cantina Due Palme was followed by lunch at Villa Neviera, the elegant wine resort of the winery. In the afternoon, the guests found themselves in Brindisi for a visit to a beautiful historical reality of the denomination, the Botrugno family winery. Here too, they tasted the best labels and received a true lesson on terroir, concluding with a “Brindisi” (in Italian a brindisi is a toast) featuring the delightful rosé sparkling wine from Negroamaro, Brindeasy. “The winery maintains its heritage by producing seven different native grapes. The wines produced by the father and son team are of high quality,” concluded Jessica Tan. Another visit and dinner in Brindisi concluded the journey. La Tenuta Lu Spada, at sunset, provided the ideal setting. A visit to the winery and traditional dishes, that Mediterranean Cuisine which is now a UNESCO World Heritage, along with a memorable range of wines, highlighted by Brindisi Rosso Masada and Susumaniello Philonianum. “Fascinating tastings, excellent wines rich in history,” noted Jessica Tan again. “Its fresh and austere style, the fruitiness and the balance are incredible,” concluded Kristy Weinz, raising her glass for the final toast of this fascinating Three Days discovering the gastronomic delights of Salento.
After getting to know the protagonists of the territory, the Consortia of Brindisi, Primitivo di Manduria, and Salice Salentino, their Presidents, and the most dynamic realities of the area, our guests return home happy to share a piece of Italy that offers absolute excellence in wine and
gastronomy. Family-run and traditional companies have skillfully alternated with large cooperatives equipped with cutting-edge facilities, historic residences restored to their former glory, and state-of-the-art modern wineries: a fascinating mix that provided an idea of the complexity of the Salento scenario. Among the things that impressed our guests the most was certainly the spirit of research and experimentation that each company visit highlighted. Brindisi, Manduria, and Salice Salentino are not historic denominations resting on their laurels, but laboratories where new techniques are experimented with, ancient grape varieties rediscovered, and where fascinating wines are born, tied to an extraordinarily vocated territory stretched between two seas that exert their influence on the vineyards. All this in a typically Mediterranean landscape, in a land that offers incredible typical products. Finally, judging by the messages we receive and the flood of articles that continue to be published, the reviews of wines both online and in print, a beautiful aspect to highlight is that with three years of Radici Virtuose, a “community” of great wine professionals has been created, now totaling 25, who have had the opportunity to meet in person on these trips and connect with colleagues who have had the same experience in previous years. In short, Radici Virtuose has gone well beyond its initial goal of producing good communication about the territory. It has created a group of industry professionals who, returning enthusiastic from their journey, will forever be excellent ambassadors of this land in a network that now spans all continents.
Consorzio Tutela Wines
Salice Salentino Dop
Salice Salentino (LE) – Casina Ripa via P. Leone – 0832 732592 consorziosalicesalentino.it
Consorzio Tutela Wines
Brindisi e Squinzano Dop
Brindisi – c/o CCIAA – Bastioni Carlo V 0831 652749 –Winesbrindisisquinzanodoc.it
The elegance of Amarone Bosan di Cesari at the challenge of time
A ‘verticale’ is not a simple wine tasting, it is something more: it is going back over the history, the changes, the choices that a winery has made, and the people who live it. It is like a time machine: there is a scent that recalls a hot or rainy summer, there is a taste that brings to mind the harvest choices or those made in the cellar, the barrels used or the months decided upon for ageing.
In the heart of Valpolicella Classica, there is the Cesari winery, for several years in the Caviro group that bought it in 2014 from the Cesari family. The company, founded in 1936, has always produced in the name of quality through the territory’s most important appellations: Valpolicella Classico, Ripasso and, of course, Amarone. Ten years after its acquisition, the large cooperative group from Emilia Romagna has decided to further invest in this Veneto-based reality to further emphasise the values that have always animated it. Everything, here, starts from the vineyard: over one hundred and fifty hectares under vine, a few dozen owned, the rest worked by vine growers who collaborate closely with the winery.
The grapes are processed in Fumane, in the heart of the classic appellation area and above all a state-of-the-art production centre. Here, in addition to the steel tanks and a few amphorae in which new products are experimented, there is the drying loft for the grapes that will give life to Amarone. In addition, the historic caveau has just been inaugurated, which conserves all the vintages of Amarone Bosan (the estate’s cru) starting with the 1997 vintage. In Cavaion Veronese, on the other hand, in addition to events and tastings in evocative settings overlooking the vineyards, there are the barrels for ageing.
Founded in 1936, the winery is owned by the Caviro Group, which has invested to give even greater prominence to quality work and the territory of the Veneto region
Various wines are produced. Starting with the Valpolicella Classico, a pure territorial expression, a fresh and young wine, very elegant and easy-drinking; followed by another Valpolicella, but from the aforementioned Bosan cru; then there is the Valpolicella Ripasso, the Amarone, fruit of the various vineyards belonging to different territories, and finally the Amarone Bosan, the company’s great label. The whites, on the other hand, are the result of a production located on the banks of Lake Garda: from here, a Pinot Grigio, a Bianco Garda and, finally, a Lugana are produced.
THE HISTORIC CAVEAU
The historic vault that holds the vintages of Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan since its inception, 1997, has just been inaugurated: an ideal space for storing the bottles and an evocative space dedicated to tastings. In the centre of the room, in addition to the tasting table, there is a counter highlighting all the old bottles with the vintages that make up the vault and highlighting the one currently on the market, which is now the 2015, with a black label. On special occasions, a three-bottle box is assembled, containing, in addition to the current vintage, two other old vintages. Starting off with the 2015, the 2010 and the 2000.
AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. BOSAN IN 7 VINTAGES
93 2015
Complex nose that winds its way through red fruit, spices and a touch of liquorice. In the mouth it is warm, never alcoholic: it brings out a perfect, silky tannin that combines with an elegant, vertical drink. The acidity is not lacking, giving a fresh, mentholated, savoury finish.
94 2012
It shows a beautiful olfactory tertiarisation that gives incredible notes: from the red fruit in evidence it arrives at spicy, smoky notes, with a touch of cinchona and graphite. In the mouth, the tannin is delicious, silky, it gives rhythm without attacking, while the acidity is still energetic and gives vitality and grit.
95 2010
The nose is complex, fine, elegant, but above all still characterised by notes of youth. Red fruit in evidence: cherry, blackberry, even raspberry and a touch of black pepper anticipate a long, savoury and fresh mouthfeel. The tannin is also young, sharp but never bitter; very long finish.
94 2006
Another great example of the potential of this wine over time. Here, too, it is still red fruit that invades the nose, followed by sweet spices, hints of underbrush, mentholated touches and noble resins. The palate is ample, voluptuous and creamy, supported by beautiful acidity. On the finish, a disarming sapidity.
From left: Giovanni Lai (Cesari General Manager); Michele Gamba (Cesari oenologist); Nicolò Maroni (Cesari marketing manager); Giuseppe Carrus (Gambero Rosso); Giampaolo Bassetti (Caviro General Manager and CEO Cesari)
Photos by Francesco Vignali
92 2003
One of the hottest and most torrid summers of the century we live in. Whenever one tastes a 2003 one cannot help but think of the climate, but in the case of Amarone, given the drying to which it is subjected, the results of the hot vintage are often satisfactory. Confirmation comes from the glass, which shows a nose in full evolution, but a fresh, savoury, vital and very very long palate.
96 2000
Simply fantastic! The energy, strength and vitality of this wine are incredible. Small berries alternate with notes of pine needles, dried leaves, porcini mushrooms and tobacco; the mouth flows wonderfully on the palate, the tannin is sweet and caressing, the acidity is not lacking and manages to give freshness to an elegant and harmonious sip.
93 1997
The first vintage tasted, the oldest, which to be honest is fascinating and not a little, just think of its age. The nose is tertiary with liquorice, undergrowth, cinchona, roots and resin in evidence. There is also a hint of cherries in spirit that anticipates a dense, creamy mouth that, despite the nose, still shows vitality, energy and freshness.
Puglian Olive Oil Captivates Dubai: A Culinary Experience to Savor
The United Arab Emirates, with Dubai shining brightly at its heart, stands as one of the world’s most significant markets for olive oil, trailing only behind the USA and Saudi Arabia. Here, Italy plays a pivotal role, particularly in the premium segment, where we are the undisputed leaders. On November 21, Gambero Rosso has orchestrated a splendid event under the auspices of the Radici Virtuose initiative on November 21st, serving as an exquisite extension of the beloved Notte Italiana, a culinary celebration that has delighted the palates of Dubai residents for years. The enchanting setting was Luigia, nestled within the luxurious Rixos Premium Hotel-one of Dubai’s finest Italian dining establishments, renowned for its elegant and authentic Mediterranean cuisine crafted from toptier Italian ingredients.
In this captivating atmosphere, a select audience of industry specialists and communicators gathered as journalist Marco Sabellico, a connoisseur of flavors, led a masterclass that illuminated the unique qualities of Puglian extra virgin olive oil, which accounts for a remarkable 60% of Italy’s production. The session embarked on a fascinating journey through the history of olive oil production, delving into the myriad varieties, extraction methods, and health benefits of this exquisite product. Participants were treated to an exploration of the diverse cultivars and their culinary applications.
The discourse also ventured into contemporary issues, addressing the challenges posed by Xylella Fastidiosa and the evolving agricultural landscape of Puglia. The session highlighted the innovative responses that Puglian olive growers are embracing in the face of these challenges, culminating in a thoughtful examination of the future outlook for Puglia’s olive oil industry. This event was not just a celebration of gastronomy but a profound reflection on tradition, resilience, and the rich tapestry of Italian culture.
But this was only a part of the event: the most anticipated moment was the tasting of five Puglian extra virgin olive oils, all derived from the Coratina cultivar, which truly captivated the attendees. Introduced to the methodology of olive oil tasting, participants had the opportunity to savor the finest selections from five distinguished producers: Pantaleo, Guglielmi, Le Quattro Contrade, Di Martino, and Le Ferreeach showcasing its unique territorial characteristics, extraction techniques, and distinctive flavor profiles.
To complement this rich program, Chef Alessandro De Carlini of Luigia, under the meticulous guidance of director Mario Sacco, crafted a special five-course menu, with a drizzle of the oils tasted serving as the “final touch” for each dish. The savory ricotta and asparagus bignè was paired with the oil from Le Quattro Contrade, while the tartare of red shrimp from Mazara, accompanied by burrata, was matched with Guglielmi’s oil. The tagliolini with Grana fondue and raw asparagus harmonized beautifully with the Coratina from Le Ferre, and finally, the herb-crusted lamb saddle was elevated by Di Martino’s oil.
A delightful surprise was the pairing of an extra virgin olive oil with dessert; in this case, a chocolate bar, cream, and strawberry sorbet was transformed by a touch of Nicola Pantaleo’s Coratina EVO, adding a new dimension of flavor. “It was a beautiful experience,” said Roberta Cuttica, a business consultant with extensive experience in the Emirates. “It opened my eyes to new horizons in the use of Puglian extra virgin olive oil.” “Olive growing in Puglia offers endless surprises,” echoed Laura Zaccaria, an expert in agri-food commerce based in Riyadh, “and the quality level of the offerings remains exceptionally high. This is the key to its commercial success worldwide.”
Consorzio per la Tutela e la Valorizzazione dell’Olio Extravergine di Oliva a Indicazione Geografica Protetta “Olio di Puglia” radicivirtuose.it
Tre Bicchieri Takes Tokyo by Storm
A Spectacular Celebration of Italian Wine and Culinary Excellence in Japan
by Marco Sabellico
On a radiant autumn Tuesday, October 29th, the vibrant heart of Tokyo pulsed with excitement as Gambero Rosso proudly hosted its 11th Tre Bicchieri event at the opulent Ritz Carlton hotel. This year, over 1,000 passionate wine professionals and enthusiasts gathered in the grand ballroom, marking the 38th edition of Vini d’Italia. From 11 AM to 6 PM, the air was filled with the clinking of glasses and the rich aromas of Italy’s finest wines, showcased by 60 premier producers presenting their most coveted labels.
The day kicked off with an inspiring presentation
featuring Luigi Salerno and the esteemed Italian Ambassador to Japan, Mr. Gialuigi Benedetti, who set the stage for an unforgettable celebration. “This is an essential event each year,” declared Yoshihiro Inaba of Inaba Import. “Our partnership with Italian producers has flourished over the years, and the demand continues to soar.” Mr. Inaba emphasized that despite the challenges of recent times, the trend is unmistakable: “The consumption of Italian wines is on the rise, and the Japanese consumer has respect, love and curiosity for the best Italy has to offer.”
As the sun dipped lower in the sky, the spirit of Italy came alive in Tokyo, uniting cultures through the shared love of exquisite wine and culinary artistry. After the speeches a longawaited moment: the Award Ceremony of the Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide, which saw a massive presence of the Italian restaurant professionals of Tokyo district. After 7 years of activity, the guide rates more then 600 Italian restaurant in the world’s most important cities. And Tokyo boast a record: is the most awarded city in Asia. Even the Pizzerie section is one of the best in the world: two Tre Spicchi awards went to Peppe sta’ ca’’ by Takashi Ogawa, perfectly crafted pizza Neapolitan style, and The Pizza Bar on 38th at the Mandarin Oriental where Lorenzo Baldi has
shown the gourmet and refined side of pizza to Tokyo pizza enthusiasts. To follow were the restaurants, with One Fork to the brilliant Aurelio by Yusuke Omoto, and Two Forks to Faro restaurant by Hiroaki Hamamoto and Antica Osteria del Ponte with the chef Stefano dal Moro. Etruschi too had Two Forks, and this refined table won also the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award Two forks again to Dai Paesani, a true hymn to the flavors of Abruzzo thanks to the patron Giuseppe Sabatino, and for Il Ristorante by Nico Romito wit the chef Mauro Aloisio. A thunderous applause greeted the Two Forks to Elio
in 1990.
The grand finale was nothing short of spectacular, showcasing a dazzling trio of Tre Forchette establishments: Osteria Gucci, led by the talented chef Antonio Iacoviello; the chic Armani Restaurant, helmed by the culinary maestro Carmine Amarante; and the exquisite Il Ristorante Bulgari, under the expert guidance of chef Luca Fantin. These three culinary luminaries are true icons of Italian fine dining in Tokyo, each one elevating the Italian tradition and enhancing the allure of
the Italian lifestyle on a global stage. Adding to the evening’s accolades, Bar Enoteca Implicito received a prestigious recognition for its remarkable selection of Italy’s finest labels, earning not one, but two coveted bottles. This event was not just a celebration; it was a vibrant tribute to the triumph of Italian wine and food culture in one of the world’s most influential markets. A night to remember, where passion for Italian gastronomy and viniculture shone brightly, reinforcing the deep-rooted connection between Italy and Japan.
Guest of honor of the day was the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo with a crowded and successful dedicated space. «Abruzzo exports 70% of its wines around the world. We must support this success, and there’s still room to grow in Japan – said recently the president of the Consorzio Alesandro Nicodemi – we want to be more and more present in the country».
A captivating Masterclass led by Marco Sabellico, the esteemed editor-in-chief of Vini d’Italia, and the renowned journalist and wine writer Isao Miyajima, delighted a select audience of professionals, wine connoisseurs, and influencers. This exclusive tasting event was dedicated to the Special Awards of the upcoming 2025 edition of the Vini d’Italia guide, offering a unique glimpse into the future of Italian wines.
As the glasses were filled and the aromas wafted through the air, attendees were treated to an unforgettable experience that showcased the pinnacle of Italian viticulture. “A memorable tasting,” proclaimed Hiroshi Kanagawa, a distinguished sommelier and wine blogger. “These are world-class wines - exactly what we expect from Gambero Rosso!” The event was a true celebration of excellence, leaving participants inspired and eager for what’s to come in the realm of Italian wine.
Orsara, the dean of Italian restaurateurs in Tokyo who opened the doors of his Elio Locanda Italiana
Gambero Rosso returns to Seoul with the Tre Bicchieri
Discovering a Timeless Seoul, where Italian Wine Meets Urban Charm
by Marco Sabellico
On November 1st, the elegant Grand Ballroom of the Ambassador Hotel played host to Gambero Rosso’s long awaited Tre Bicchieri event, celebrating the exquisite world of Italian wines. Seoul, a vibrant tapestry where a quarter of South Korea’s population thrives, is a city that continually reinvents itself, captivating us with every corner turned.
This dynamic metropolis is a delightful blend of
culture, cutting-edge technology, and entertainment, making it a must-visit destination for wanderers and locals alike. In recent years, Seoul has embarked on an inspiring journey of transformation, driven by innovative government initiatives aimed at enhancing urban living and promoting sustainability.
Take a leisurely stroll through the lush expanses of “Seoul Forest” or bask in the serene beauty of the
restored “Cheonggyecheon Stream.” These projects not only breathe life into the city but also create a greener, more inviting atmosphere for residents and visitors to enjoy. In this ever-evolving cityscape, there’s always something new to discoverespecially when it comes to savoring the rich flavors of Italian wine amidst the charm of Seoul. Cheers to new experiences!
And what a splendid success the
Tre Bicchieri event turned out to be! Audiences and critics alike exceeded our wildest expectations, bringing a wave of excitement that swept through the venue. Despite the lingering effects of the pandemic, fluctuations in the won, and a Southeast Asia still finding its footing, we were pleasantly surprised by the enthusiasm that poured forth from producers and attendees.
From 1 PM to 5 PM, the Grand Ballroom buzzed with energy as wine lovers indulged in the awardwinning selections from the 2025 edition of Vini d’Italia. It was a delightful afternoon of discovery, laughter, and connection, where every sip told a story of years of dedication and passion. The hard work and commitment of both the producers and Gambero Rosso in this vibrant market are truly paying off and promise to yield even more remarkable results in the future. Cheers to the journey ahead and the memories yet to be made!
“We proudly stand as the thirdlargest country in terms of imported wine value,” shares Ferdinando Gueli from ITA-ICE in Seoul, “trailing only behind France and the USA. After a series of dazzling successes in recent years, we did experience a dip in ’23 and a somewhat slow start to ‘24. However, from 2012 to 2022, the value of Italian wine imports more than tripled! Today, wine in Korea has evolved beyond mere indulgence - it’s woven into the fabric of our food and wine culture, becoming a vibrant social phenomenon that enriches everyday life.”
As the bustling masterclass wraps up, Sangmi Kim, a Korean journalist fresh from a wine journey through Italy organized by Gambero Rosso, beams with enthusiasm. “Just look at the crowd here!” she exclaims, glancing around at the engaged audience. “Many are wine educators, and it’s heartening to see that women and young people dominate the
Top Italian Restaurants in Seoul The 2024 Awardees
Pizzerias are the fastest-growing segment, with many new openings recorded in the past year. Neapolitan pizza seems to have firmly established itself in the dining habits of Koreans. Uno Spicchio goes to Rosso 1924, a bustling spot in the university area where Rosario Giustiniani serves authentic Neapolitan specialties with carefully selected ingredients. Due Spicchi is awarded to Spacca Napoli, where you can enjoy excellent Neapolitan pizzas perfectly crafted by enthusiastic young Korean pizzaiolos in the stylish and lively Hapjeong district. Tre Spicchi of absolute excellence goes to Antica Pizzeria Marione, run by “Mario” Kim, who, respecting Neapolitan tradition, bakes hundreds of fragrant pizzas daily from his original Neapolitan oven.
Among the restaurants, Una Forchetta is awarded to Al Choc by Marco Caverni, authentic and genuine; Boccalino by Marco Erba, which offers excellent specialties in an elegant setting; and Trattoria Rialto by Jehong HeeWan, famous for its outstanding fresh pasta recipes. Due Forchette recognize Ciuri Ciuri by Enrico Olivieri and Filippa Fiorenza, who present authentic and delicious Sicilian cuisine; Vigneto, an elegant restaurant and wine bar offering refined and authentically Italian dishes; and finally, to Paolo De Maria, a chef who has been sailing at a high level in the Korean capital for years and also plays an important role in promoting our cuisine through highly popular cooking classes. This year, he also received the prestigious Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award for his rich wine list. Bravo!
scene. They represent the bright future of wine in this country!”
In this lively atmosphere, it’s clear that the passion for wine is not just alive - it’s thriving, with new voices and perspectives shaping the landscape of Korea’s wine culture.!
“Wine and food are a match made in heaven - it’s a timeless European lesson,” reflects Miyeun Hong, an esteemed international judge, wine selector, expert taster, educator, and television host. “This insight opens up incredible growth opportunities for us. However, we must communicate about wine
in a way that resonates with our Eastern sensibilities, something that is still a work in progress for many.” With a twinkle in her eye, she continues, “People have a deep appreciation for Italy and its diverse wines, which beautifully complement the myriad flavors of Korean cuisine. We Koreans are adventurous at the table, unbound by preconceptions. The idea of pairing Italian wine with Korean dishes is a newfound journey we’ve just begun, and the possibilities are endless!”
Her enthusiasm is truly contagious, illuminating the incredible potential for growth in this vibrant culinary scene. As we dive into this delightful fusion
of flavors, it’s evident that the journey of pairing wine with Korean cuisine is just beginning - a thrilling adventure awaits!
The event, as we mentioned, was a resounding success in a city that is beautifully reinventing itself on the gastronomic front, buzzing with dynamic energy post-pandemic. While some beloved establishments may have closed their doors, a wave of fresh openings has emerged: charming pizzerias, lively tapas bars, inviting wine lounges, and a host of international restaurants, with Italian cuisine stealing the spotlight.
This brings us to the highlight of the day - the awards ceremony for the Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide, presided over by the Italian Ambassador, Emilia Gatto. Her heartfelt speech in Korean was met with enthusiastic applause, as she celebrated the deep connections between our two countries and reaffirmed the Embassy’s commitment to promoting Italian culture in Korea, where food and wine play a pivotal role.
Nine outstanding restaurants and pizzerias were honored during the ceremony, a testament to the thriving Italian culinary presence in Korea.
“This is just the beginning,” the Ambassador concluded with a warm smile. “I’m confident that this number will continue to grow.” Here’s to the exciting culinary journey ahead, where every meal is a celebration!
We leave Seoul with some certainties: wine consumers have grown from around 10 million in 2017 to over 13 in 2023. And there are great prospects in Korea, beyond contingency, for our wine: Italian food and wine means quality, refinement, authenticity and culture of knowing how to live, and for Koreans wine, and Italian wine in particular, is increasingly a symbol of elegance and well-being.
Moments of the tasting an the MasterClass
In this page, on the top left, the Italian Ambassador, Emilia Gatto
Tre Bicchieri in Shanghai: A Timeless Classic!
by Marco Sabellico
Shanghai stands as one of the most vibrant gems in all of China, and this was reaffirmed once again on November 4th at the illustrious Tre Bicchieri event for the freshly printed 2025 Guide. Set against the opulent backdrop of the Portman Ritz Carlton Hotel on bustling Nanjing Road, the atmosphere was electric. The day kicked off with an opening ceremony featuring the esteemed remarks of Italy’s Consul General, Tiziana D’Angelo, who, following her inspiring address, presented the prestigious awards from the Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide.
In Shanghai, the Pearl of the Orient, a cosmopolitan spirit
permeates the air, captivating all who visit. Year after year, this dynamic city continues to astonish with its thriving economy, fueled by a vast international community where Italy plays a pivotal role. It’s a metropolis that never sleeps, indulging in culinary delights and fine wines… increasingly Italian!
«Amidst countless closures in the post-COVID era, there have also been numerous new beginnings,» shares Daniele Salvo, who, alongside his brother Paolo, has crafted a Neapolitan pizzeria format in Beijing that is now flourishing in Shanghai, where they have recently opened a second location. With plans to
expand into other cities across China, he notes, «The Chinese have a deep appreciation for Italian craftsmanship and our cuisine. Today, we’re returning to our roots - focusing less on fine dining and more on pizza and authentic traditional dishes. We’re in a transitional phase, moving beyond a challenging period, if not a crisis, and towards a new era of growth.»
His establishment, Bottega , has once again earned the coveted Tre Spicchi award, following its recognition as our Italian Pizzeria of the Year last year, along with the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award. The keys to their success? A highly skilled staff, stunning locations that draw a
youthful crowd, authentic highquality Italian ingredients, and creative yet faithful interpretations of classic Neapolitan pizza. They also offer delicious pasta dishes and timeless recipes, complemented by an appealing wine list that features Italian selections and beyond.
On the restaurant front, a stellar lineup continues to shine brightly: Bambino by Stefano Giovannelly, also known as Lucky Lasagna; Bella Vita by Samuele Rossi; Da Marco by Marco Barbieri; Scarpetta by John Liu, featuring Chef Lorenzo Merolle; and Frasca by Giovanni Catania, all awarded with the prestigious Una Forchetta.
In a noteworthy achievement, the Shanghai branch of Otto e ½ Bombana , led by Chef Nicolò Rotella, and Il Ristorante Niko Romito , helmed by Chef Mauro Aloisio, have both earned the esteemed Due Forchette. Meanwhile, Da Vittorio Shanghai , run by the Cerea brothers and guided by the talented Stefano Bacchelli, continues to hold its place at the pinnacle of culinary excellence. Tre Forchette once more.
This vibrant and dynamic landscape bodes well for further growth in the years to come, promising an exciting future for food lovers in the city!
«The foundations are there,» says Vinicio Eminenti, who has spent over twenty years in China as an importer of Italian and global wines through his VM Fine Wines & Food. «The landscape is shifting; the government has not encouraged wine production and consumption in China in recent years. However, more and more Chinese are traveling for tourism, work, and study. And upon their return, they often become wine consumers. We can see this reflected in sales: while they’ve declined over the past two years, Italy has fared much better than other countries. Tastes are evolving
as well: white wines and sparkling varieties, including sweet ones, are on the rise, driven by a younger generation and women - consumers who are becoming increasingly knowledgeable and adventurous. The traditional consumers still favor red wines, particularly rich and smooth varieties like Primitivo and Amarone. But in the long run….» When we ask him if he has an anti-crisis recipe, he responds, «The presence of producers, events like today’s that have attracted a true crowd of enthusiasts, and education. Through the AIS, which I represent, we have trained and are continuing to train many sommeliers here in China. They are the future of wine consumption!»
«It was a beautiful event,» concluded Riccardo Isetti from the Friulian winery Monviert, «with a lot of interest, concrete connections, and appreciation for our Friulian whites. It’s a market that needs to be nurtured diligently!»
«We’re starting with pizza - the real Neapolitan kind,» sums up Stefano Micillo, a Neapolitan entrepreneur now thriving in Shanghai and the mastermind behind the wildly successful Mamma Mia chain. «Here, authentic flavors and the quality of ingredients matter; it’s all about the authenticity of the offering. Italy’s culinary excellence will always prevail!»
The 17th Top Italian Wines Roadshow kicks off in Shenzen
by Marco Sabellico
Shenzhen is the city you don't expect. In the sense that twenty years ago it didn't exist, and today it is one of the most dynamic and futuristic realities in the country, with an impressive forest of skyscrapers and 18 million inhabitants. And the first appearance of Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines Roadshow in Shenzen on November the 6th was a great première, where 45 great wineries from all over Italy poured their best wines for the cultured wine-lovers of China’s Silicon Valley, one of the country’s most dynamic and rapidly growing cities. Its economy and tourism sector are key components of its overall development and
global standing. Now it’s China's third largest economy and the fourth most populous city. Shenzhen is the largest metropolitan area in China and a very important economic district, continually expanding, connected to a number of other important cities in the Bay Area. Here - thanks to a population of young professionals with spending power, wine and Italian cuisine are now very popular. And Pizza rules here too… We visited the successful «90 Seconds» (the time you need to bake a perfect Neapolitan pizza) Pizzeria by Giovanni Marletta, a Sicilian pizzaiolo trained in Napoli that encountered a huge success in town and manages also the well-
known Kyta. «Authentic flavors, great ingredients, simplicity. That’s the key off success - explains - It’s the secret of Italian pizza and Italian culinary tradition». We had confirmation of all this during the event when the producers of the Roadshow were literally overwhelmed by an uninterrupted flow of passionate visitors in the halls of the Hilton Shenzhen Futian Tower, in the central Great China International Finance Center. From noon, with the Opening Ceremony, to 6 p.m. there was no pause. The Walkaround Tasting was always crowded, and absolutely all sold out the three masterclasses - a fascinating trip around the best
terroirs and denominatios of Italy, tutored by Marco Sabellico, senior editor of Vini d’Italia 2025, the Italian wine bible published by Gambero Rosso since 1988. «We love wine, we, produce wine, we will drink more and more wine - said Johnny Chan , a sort of wine-guru, a popular television host and communicator, but also a brilliant winemaker in the cold Xinya district, where he crafts excellent labels of elegant whites and reds - We Chinese are always
open to the new, and to cultural exchanges. Is no news. I’m often in Europe, and we always welcome wine people from Italy and other country. Every new acquaintance is an enrichment for both. You always learn something new. You broaden your horizon. It’s vital. I’ll be soon in Italy. And you’re always welcome as are your wines. Wine is part of History, is not only an alcoholic drink. It’s Culture». Shenzhen, we’ll be back!
Notte Italiana in Dubai
On 20 November, the Notte Italiana event by Gambero Rosso event took place in Dubai. By now, the event is a classic in the hottest tourist destination in the world: its performance is extraordinary, and already the figures for the first half of 2024 are set to break all records for influxes and presences. And Gambero Rosso has been presiding over this extremely important market for our wine exports for years with its glamour and food and wine culture initiatives. Italian food and wine are extremely popular in the Emirates, as our best chefs, who have also opened their doors in the City of Wonders, and the most prestigious wine producers are well aware. After the opening ceremony in the presence of the Italian Ambassador Lorenzo Fanara and the presentation of the Awards to the top names of the made-in-Italy catering industry, there was a
showcooking by Roberto Valbuzzi, a young chef from Lombardy who is making waves for his refined interpretations of the cuisine of Valtellina. And the guests of the grand evening at Palazzo Versace, one of the city's most prestigious locations,
were able to taste Lombardy's aromas and flavours, accompanied by the precious wines of the companies selected by Gambero Rosso. The event, as always, was organised with the friendly cooperation of Yogesh Metha, patron
of Petrochem, a great collector of fine wines and a long-standing friend of Gambero Rosso, and saw the attentive participation of Emirati import companies. Guests of honour for the evening were the Lombardy Region and the Consorzio dell'Olio di Puglia IGP. The evening's programme began with Taste of Lombardy at 6:30 p. m. with a special Masterclass dedicated to the great wines of Lombardy, also at Palazzo Versace, conducted
by Marco Sabellico, editor of the Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines guide. The other guests of Notte Italiana also had the pleasure of tasting the best Lombardy labels in a corner dedicated to them.
The Dubai audience also had the opportunity to taste some of the best Coratina variety oils from the Olio di Puglia IGP Consortium, including: Pantaleo, Azienda Agricola Di
Martino, Le Ferre, Guglielmi and Le 4 Contrade, as a small anticipation of the Masterclass the following day, where Marco Sabellico led participants on a fascinating tour of the history of EVO oil, production techniques and tasting of the Green Gold produced in Puglia, followed by a lunch with the same oils in combination. The initiative is part of the Radici Virtuose programme organised by the Apulia Region and Gambero Rosso.
150 years amidst Colli Orientali del Friuli Zorzettig: bottled history, nature... and the future
A story that has roots 150 years deep, in the evocative Colli Orientali del Friuli set between the Alps and kissed by the Adriatic Sea breeze. Family roots, those belonging to Zorzettig, whose winery is now entrusted in the hands of Annalisa, who has taken up her father’s legacy by extending the winery’s territories to the current 120 hectares. A business that celebrates the indigenous Friuli grape varieties, their biodiversity, the history and culture of a terroir. A resolution that also in this vintage, thanks to the work done in the vineyard and conservative agronomic processes, promises fruitful horizons. «We have high expectations from this vintage,» explains Annalisa, «The grapes this year are crisp, full, rich and tasty. Our grapes show great varietal correspondence in the mouth and the balance in the musts is excellent. In terms of numbers, we expect a drop from the harvest, but in terms of quality we are very positive: I would say that for the Colli Orientali del Friuli it will be one of the best vintages. We can’t wait to have it in the bottle and to present it to the public». A public that is already familiar with the labels and grape varieties offered in Zorzettig’s flagship line, “Myò” : in particular, “I Fiori di Leonie” , a label that was awarded the Tre Bicchieri del Gambero Rosso at its debut in 2021, has met with great
«Crisp, full, rich and tasty grapes: we have high expectations for this vintage»
success. The name, a dedication to Annalisa’s granddaughter, is the calling card for a wine that is «forthright, savoury, clean, fresh and sincere like the force of nature: it concentrates in itself the same purity and vitality of Leonie, she is our future, a sustainable future». A green commitment already visible on the label, which features a protected cherry blossom inside the goblet. «We don’t simply produce wine, but we want to build a cultural heritage and values to pass on to future generations, with a great sense of responsibility starting with the choices in the vineyard,» stresses Annalisa.
THE 2024 VINTAGE
The current vintage was characterised by mild temperatures between March and April - which favoured the sprouting of early varieties - interspersed with northern winds (Bora and Tramontana) that particularly, and positively, affect the winery’s vineyards between Colli di Spessa, Ipplis and Novacuzzo. Zorzettig’s love for the ecosystem, is shared by the winery’s agronomist, Antonio Noacco: «Our plants are an integral part of a virtuous ecosystem that we have respected for years. This year, too, the vines have managed to develop healthy bunches that reflect not only the territory, but also the specificity of this year’s harvest».
Zorzettig
Cividale del Friuli (UD) loc. Spessa strada Sant’Anna, 37 0432 716156 zorzettigvini.it fZorzettigVini $ zorzettigvini
food
Is there a future for fine dining tables?
Beyond fine dining >Pro&Cons
Chefs are looking for different models based on the identity of tradition relying more on content and not just form
by Stefano Polacchi
If you look for the origin of the word-concept “fine dining”, it all goes back to the birth of the first gourmet restaurants in late 18th century Paris. But you will never find an explanation of how an English word came to define a concept, a restaurant model that is French. «I see so many of my colleagues saying that fine dining will never die,» smiles Paolo Lopriore, Gualtiero Marchesi’s “purest” pupil, «but nobody knows exactly where and when it was born. And if something dies, it must have had an origin!».
Paccheri alla Vittorio, a classic dish by Cerea in Brusaporto (photo by Beatrice Pilotto) Above, Tuna belly, white aubergine, balsamic vinegar from Da Vittorio in Shanghai
And yet, even if we don’t really know where it originated, let’s at least try to understand if it has a future and what it is, this blessed fine dining on which consumers, chefs and pundits battle it out, inflaming social media. The first sensation, or nose, is that even if all the “starred” people are shouting that it will never die, all things considered, ‘fine dining’ seems to have already been surpassed by a series of passionate and serious professionals who are not willing to submit to fashions without a word.
Paolo Lopriore - who even in the name of “fine dining” (or allegedly so) was the target of fierce criticism when at the Canto della Certosa di Maggiano in Siena he presented a cube of splendid raw beef instead of Fiorentina - has an idea. «I believe that what is understood today as fine dining is a concept that originated in Northern
A few of the “merits” of fine dining: driven experimentation and innovation. Among the most criticised “cons”: excessively high prices, standardisation in design and ingredients as well as in cooking (and flavours)
Europe in the late 1990s and early 2000s. There, where there is really no culinary tradition vaguely comparable with the depth of ours, they coined a model based more on the container than on the content,» speculates Lopriore. «At those latitudes, the only fine dining was French cuisine. Then, with the New Nordic Cuisine, they combined French cooking techniques with local practices such as fermentations, concentrating, however, above all on the aesthetics of the table and dish, on design. On the relationship (more conceptual than anything else) with nature and the ‘wild’ world. In the absence of warmth,» smiles the chef, «they filled the tables with candles; but we use candles here at the cemetery. We, on the other hand, who have always had a
The gourmet axis shifts north
It is not clear when “gourmet’” became “fine dining”. Everything, of course, played out on the great Parisian stage: first came the popular bouillons, then Tal Boulanger in 1765 opened the first (it seems) modern public restaurant. The first “luxury table” was La Grande Taverne de Londres, also in Paris. The French Revolution with the end of the aristocracy “freed” a large mass of private chefs and by the early 19th century Paris had about 500 restaurants. Then came Le Grand Véfur considered one of the “finest eating places”, demolished by Covid. But when did gourmet become fine dining? Probably when Northern Cuisine takes the new social stage and, breaking away from French tradition, underlines the novelty by translating “gourmet” French into English (a global language). Not surprisingly, one of the hallmarks of the “new” fine dining is the link - more proclaimed than practised - with ‘nature’: from design to Scandinavian and Danish-derived “brutalism”. «And even Michelin,» says Lopriore, «has gone after them with its Green Stars that are anything but sustainable».
René Redzepi’s Noma: Sea snail skewer from the Ocean menu (photo by Ditte Isager)
lot of substance and content and less form, have started to follow that kind of fashion there, which has developed and spread mainly through social media. Think of the small tiles - deriving from the sweet or savoury French tuile - that have now invaded the menus of all fine dining establishments and that convey everything: those were invented by Rasmus Kofoed of the Geranium in Copenhagen for the Bocus d’Or competition. And they all follow him, but instead of taking them to a competition they take them to the tables of their restaurants». Tiles or mini-tacos they are.
The Italian model
But let’s get to the point. What sense does fine dining have for Italian cuisine? «I do not believe that this concept, so determined, makes sense for us,» says Paolo Lopriore. «“Our” fine dining is in the familiar warmth of the welcome: this is the value that marks the Italian gastronomic tradition. Both the physical welcome in the restaurant and the gourmet welcome with dishes that ignite pleasure, that stimulate conviviality, that make you feel good and relaxed». It is no coincidence that a chef-restaurateur of great success in Italy and around the world like Chicco Cerea, who with his family celebrates the daily ritual of Da Vittorio in Brusaporto, comments on the ‘Italian way’ to fine dining: «I believe there is a need for high-level cuisine with exceptional raw materials and relaxed cooking». A formula, a method, that starts from the historic “Paccheri alla Vittorio” to the tuna belly, white aubergine and balsamic vinegar offered in the family’s Shanghai restaurant. Hospitality, therefore, is a concept that is also dear to another “outsider” such as Gianluca Gorini, a chef in Bagno di Romagna who was born into a family of innkeepers, worked
in Paolo Teverini’s restaurant («who between the 1990s and 2000s was an absolute reference point for Italian retraction») and then worked alongside Lopriore in Siena, before opening his own restaurant in what was a historic trattoria in the area, the Locanda del Gambero Rosso. «Today the restaurant must be an inclusive place, it must be able to satisfy the senses at 360 degrees, which means being able to create a place where not only great dishes are served, but where there is great hospitality. For me, it is this dimension of hospitality that is the true hallmark of the Italian tradition, from the bourgeois restaurant to the trattoria and up to - I hope - fine dining. It is a place where one seeks a moment of total fulfilment».
Gorini and Cantafio
But what does it mean? For those who know it, Paolo Lopriore’s cuisine in its Lombard version inaugurated with the Portico adventure is almost a manifesto of a new Italian cuisine beyond instagrammable fine dining. But another
chef, who also does fine dining and has recently returned to Italy after years and years in international gourmet establishments, leaves no room for doubt: «The true sense of Italian fine dining is to be found in the spirit of Sunday lunches, of family tables set on feast days where relatives near and far would gather around dishes that invited sharing and conviviality,» says Simone Cantafio, now at the Stua de Michil in Val Badia where he has returned after growing up between Cracco and Marchesi, of whom he was one of the last pupils, and returning to the Belpaese after more than 10 years travelling the world between France and Japan. And of course, Cantafio knows high-level international catering well. «I am referring,» the chef says in an interview with Antonella De Santis for our website (gamberorosso. it), «to an identity that we have often abandoned to follow things that do not belong to us».
«Of course,» he explains, «this is just my thought, but I think we have homologated a bit to the global market with the tasting menu, Japanese ce-
ramics, and everything else the world demands, losing our Italian essence. In my opinion, the big question that needs to be asked and I ask myself is: today, in 2024, what is haute cuisine for us Italians?» Here, what is it? «Sharing, humanity, the typical facets of Italian cuisine that can make the difference. And then of course raw materials of the highest level. I grew up in these decorated tables, I try to elevate the convivial experience that was passed on to me when I was a child to a higher level, bringing professionalism to the Italian experience. And that is what I wanted to do here with Incö: bring the table back to haute Italian cuisine». But will foreigners used to the tables of the international jet set understand us? «Here in Alta Badia there are a lot of foreigners. I explain to them: for me this is the highest expression of haute
Da Vittorio dei Cerea: Crostino di Altamura, Cantabrian anchovy, tuna sauce, hazelnut (photo by Emanuele Rossi)
A mosaic of different shapes and vibrant colours. A positive mood that becomes yours. A new Franciacorta wine.
GRADI DI STILE
ORGANIC WINE
Italian cuisine and they are happy, they finally find something different from what they might find in Tokyo or New York where there is not this culture of the big table, of appetisers to share. We have it and we hide it perhaps because it is not part of the international rules of haute cuisine. Because it has not yet been recognised». So, beyond the façade defence of an unidentified fine dining, there are several chefs representing the best Italian cuisine who are beginning to think differently from the mainstream.
School for foreigners
Even Paolo Lopriore is thinking of a school. But for foreigners, not for Italians! ‘If we have been able to so easily accept the fashions that come from abroad, why not also focus on a concept and model of Italian cuisine that can make inroads abroad? Italian cuisine is a boundless territory: I am thinking more of the method than of the thousands and thousands of traditional and family recipes that make and have made our gastronomic history. It could be interesting to teach it to young people abroad who do not have gastronomic prejudices as our youngsters do. Let me explain: if I make a very good meatball, a student Italian chef would like it and would also be satisfied with it, but he is unlikely to want to offer it on a menu when and if he opens his own restaurant. Fine dining as perceived today leaves no room for meatballs. Yet meatballs are and can also be fine dining. In the 1960s, Italian fine dining was Osteria Cantarelli which had Two Michelin Stars. Then, everything started to change. Gualtiero Marchesi gave a new dimension to Italian cuisine. Yet, when asked why he had changed Italian cuisine, he replied that he had not changed the cuisine, but the customer and the way of approaching the table. I then, today, find myself in dissonance with him who was my master. Marchesi used to say that good is also good. But that is not always the case: stew is not beautiful, but it is or can be very good. Today in my restaurant
in Appiano Gentile I had 32 people for lunch eating fried chicken. For that small town it is a very special thing. Evidently fried chicken and my way of setting the table are starting to win over the people of Appiano Gentile too. They don’t perceive me as the fine dining chef, but as part of their world and their history».
Luxury trattoria
Still on the new restaurant model front, even an entrepreneur like Paolo Damilano (wine, starred and bistrot between Lanche and Turin) had his
say in rejecting the fine dining model: «I am thinking of a chic trattoria: to tell tourists and enthusiasts about the best of Italy at the table, without aspiring to a star, but offering luxury service and excellent quality cuisine,» he told Gusto di Repubblica, illustrating his investment project abroad. «The objective: to make
Paolo Lopriore, at the Portico di Appiano Gentile a stone’s throw from Como
an important contribution to representing Italian food and wine abroad, starting with Europe, riding the wave of a return to tradition. I would start with Germany and Switzerland and then expand to the USA, where there are Italian communities that know and appreciate our products. But I also plan to expand in Italy, starting with the big cities like Rome and Milan». The point, however, does not seem to be whether the trattoria itself is the dry Italian alternative to fine dining. And Lopriore explains this well: «Once upon a time, the real difference between ristorate and trattoria was only in the cutlery, plates and glasses. The chicken, in the end, was of the same quality. Dal Pescatore dei Santini in Canneto sull’Oglio takes a bit of that back: it brings tortelli di zucca to signature dishes. The rich ate in silver and porcelain, the poor in wood and terracotta, but the quality of the food was more or less the same. Then, since the economic boom, things changed. The other day they asked me for Catalana. I replied
that maybe he had the wrong dish or the wrong place. At the most I can get to Russian salad!», smiles Paolo.
Identity
And he is echoed by student Gorini: «My challenge is to make a real account of our daily experience: in this way perhaps we can go beyond the awarding of a label certifying whether it is a trattoria, a restaurant or fine dining. It would be nice to regain those distinctive traits that have always characterised our gastronomic tradition: of course, in the light of today’s teachings and knowledge, techniques and technologies that allow us to better highlight flavours, to better valorise high quality ingredients. Perhaps,» Gianluca Gorini reflects, «the time has also come to think of a model that belongs to us and not just to replicate it. We can also seek a synthesis between fine dining, restaurant, trattoria or osteria and experiment with a model that belongs to us. Ours is a cuisine that
A “convivial” dish from Lopriore: potato gnocchi, chanterelles, tomato, black pepper and pecorino cheese
comes from the countryside, from products, from gestures and knowledge, from convivial moments that are Sunday lunch as well as the bourgeois lunch at the restaurant or that in the osteria. Why not take on these legacies and translate them into a path that goes beyond?». We close with a comment from Fabrizio Pagliardi, a Roman restaurateur at La Barrique and a “champagnista” of the first hour: «How can you expect a commercial phenomenon of any kind to last thirty years without changing much? By now, the most modern and newest starred restaurant is stale and dusty for younger enthusiasts. Fine dining is not dead, it has to change and I have the feeling it doesn’t know how to change». The challenge is open.
Immediately recognisable flavours and aromas:
Peppe Guida is the legendary host of Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa in Vico Equense
This land is my land
The great Mediterranean flavours PEPPE GUIDA
>Broken candele pasta
alla genovese antica
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
320 g candele pasta, broken 1 kg golden onions 4 eggs
Pecorino cheese, grated bay leaves basil black peppercorns extra virgin olive oil salt
Finely slice the onions and fry them in a pan with 3 tablespoons of olive oil, a couple of broken bay leaves and salt. Cover and cook over very low heat for about two and a half hours. Add a drop of water from time to time, if necessary, because the onions have to disintegrate. At the time of serving, cook the pasta in lightly salted boiling water. In the saucepan with the already cooked onions, create spaces to insert the eggs, letting them warm up until they set. Toast the peppercorns and pound them in a mortar, they will release a magical aroma. When al dente, drain the pasta and stir it into the pan with onions and eggs. Finish with grated pecorino cheese, a sprinkling of pepper and a few basil leaves.
In the old days, those who could, added meat to the genovese, usually second-rate cuts discarded from the most prized pieces cooked for aristocratic tables. There were, however, those who could not even afford the scraps and so an egg was added. Or nothing else: with just stewed onions and a generous sprinkling of pecorino cheese, you get a dish fit for kings.
>Baccalà with corn rusks,
tomato and olive tapenade
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
For the baccalà:
1 kg di cod fillets, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery rib
For the tomato:
750 g bottled tomato passata, 1 garlic clove, basil leaves, extra virgin olive oil and salt. For garnish:
3 corn rusks (or friselle), 200 g pitted and smashed oil preserved olives, extra virgin olive oil and fresh marjoram leaves
For the cod: clean and roughly chop the onion, celery and carrot, add to a pot with one litre of water and bring to the boil, cooking for five minutes. Now strain the broth, bring it to about 60°C and immerse the cod fillet, cut into four pieces, in it. Let it steep until cooked, about 10 minutes. For the tomato: season the tomato passata with a little olive oil, a clove of garlic and the basil. Adjust seasoning. For the garnish: wet the rusks with a little of the cod cooking stock, then break them up and place in the centre of a soup plate. Place a piece of cod on top, drizzle with the cold tomato sauce and, on one side, add a quenelle of chopped olives. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and basil leaves.
Ananatara: Rome meets the world
Overlooking the striking Fountain of the Naiads, Ananatara Palazzo Naiadi is a luxurious hotel in an enviable central location. Embracing a section of Piazza della Repubblica, it is the ideal spot to explore the beauty of the capital city from its location. Places of timeless charm such as the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri and the Baths of Diocletian are just a glance away. A few minutes’ walk and you reach Via Veneto, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Monti district.
CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY
The magnificent neoclassical portico of Palazzo Naiadi is one of the most majestic hotel entrances in the city. Art deco-inspired decorations and rich marble detailing in the atrium contrast with the dining and drinking space on the rooftop where a more modern vision of the Anantara can be glimpsed. In this pleasing contrast of styles, the sense of belonging to the Eternal City is tangible: the hotel stands on the remains of 1,700-year-old baths from the time of the Emperor Diocletian, and glass panels on the floor of its lower floor allow visitors to peer into the ancient foundations, mosaics and well-preserved pool remains. Ancient and modern interpenetrate to perfection, adding further charm to your stay.
INEO: A GLOBAL GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY
The contemporary design with large mirrors, marble, leather and velvet chairs are a nod to the hotel, while the menu is an emanation of Heros De Agostinis’ skills. The chef, born in Rome, but with a background of international experience and high-level masters such as, Joël Robuchon, Marc Veyrat and Heinz Beck, proposes a cuisine with local ingredients, but with a global outlook. It is no coincidence that two of the tasting menus are called ‘Around the World’ and ‘Rome and Surroundings’.
Fresh seafood, spices, and contrasting flavours play an important role in the menu. There is also room for a completely vegetarian menu (‘Green’), in which the vegetable world is the protagonist of a sustainable and pleasantly dynamic course that does not fail to surprise. Chef Heros creates brilliant and balanced cuisine, characterised by vibrant colours and flavours.
Wine also plays on an international register with over 300 labels that tell of a meticulous selection from different countries. It starts in Italy with wellknown names and appellations, but also small producers, and moves through the production of other wine-growing areas including France, Spain, Austria and Germany.
espresso coffee
True or False?
Two great coffee experts debunk the most widespread clichés about Italy’s best-loved and most mistreated beverage
by Andrej Godina and Mauro Illiano
Coffee is a serious thing... It is still, however, the victim of many clichés and fake news that we try to debunk here. Here is a little handbook dedicated to the black beverage... Coffee is only enjoyed bitter. That is simply not true. Coffee is a beverage that includes the bitter taste, but not exclusively. Almost always in coffee there is also a fair amount of acidity and a perceptible sweetness. Why then do we believe that coffee is only bitter? Because this taste is often predominant. The dark espresso roast, high temperatures and pressure in the espresso machine, overdoses and the presence of robusta in the blend favour the marking of this taste. Try tasting a light roast coffee, perhaps filter or cold brew, and you will notice that acidity is most likely to dominate the taste. Similarly, aromas often de -
ceive us. So if we smell aromas of cocoa, pepper, liquorice we will be more inclined to define our coffee as bitter than a coffee in which we smell aromas of peach, maracuja and caramel.
Coffee only pairs well with pastries. Coffee possesses incredible versatility in terms of taste (bitter, sweet, sour, and sometimes umami). The olfactory range of coffee is also extremely wide. Consider, in fact, that coffee is capable of releasing enough odorous molecules to cover more than a thousand aromatic compounds, of which, however, man is only able to pick up a part. To the touch, then, coffee covers various sensations, ranging from the almost chewiness of espresso to the thinness of a filter coffee, and expe -
“Even cappuccino is a cocktail! So what? It’s no surprise if we tell you that coffee can stand next to a plate of carbonara, go with a branzino or an onion quiche”
riencing both hot and cold temperatures. Think that’s it? Well, there is the great ability of coffee to go with other beverages, a characteristic that makes it a perfect base for cocktails. On the other hand, if we think about it, cappuccino itself is a cocktail! So what? It comes as no surprise when we tell you that coffee can stand next to a dish of carbonara, to branzino or an onion quiche.
Coffee can’t be expensive. Coffee can’t be be cheap, coffee must have a price to the public that allows all the actors in the chain to have a fair profit. And we are not just talking about the farmer who, to date, is the most penalised link in the chain, but also about the intermediaries and in particular the barista. Perhaps not everyone
The first guide to coffee roasters
Andrej Godina and Mauro Illiano are two of the leading coffee experts in Italy. Andrej has a PhD in Science, Technology and Economics in the Coffee Industry, Mauro has a background as a lawyer and a very long career as a food taster and reviewer. Having met in 2019 thanks to a Report investigation on the quality of coffee in Italy, the two started a series of collaborations that led to the publication of several technical manuals on tasting, extraction and technology applied to the coffee drink. They are also the authors of a documentary, ‘Caffè & Vino’, dedicated to the parallelism between the two worlds, and over the years have collaborated with the most important institutions and the most representative companies in the coffee sector. Their most representative work is undoubtedly the Guida dei Caffè e delle Torrefazioni d’Italia , which will celebrate its third edition this year. It is the first guide in Europe dedicated to coffee and its many variables, collecting thousands of tastings and reviews on the best coffee qualities produced in Italy.
knows that half of the bar price of an espresso is made up of personnel costs, which does not allow the business to be profitable. The litmus test is simple, let us remove everything from the bar that is not coffee, i.e. the aperitifs, the food, the possible tobacconist’s shop, and we will find that the business will go bankrupt in a short time. This proves that the price of coffee offered by cafés is a ‘sub-cost’. Coffee must be a profitable product, it must be such that the café can sustain itself by selling coffee alone. In all likelihood and on average, the minimum price threshold for which the sale of coffee at the café can be said to be sustainable is 2 euro.
Specialty coffee is always better. Absolutely not. Two levels of consideration must be distinguished, the first being the personal preferences of consumers. Specialty coffee has a much more complex flavour than commercial coffee, the Specialty classification is only reserved for coffees belonging to the Arabica species and the flavour profile is distinctly acidic. This category of coffee is not always ‘good’ for all those who like the more intense flavours of the Canephora and do not like a marked acidity in their drink. The second level is purely technical, by those who taste the coffee in the laboratory and determine its price on the international markets based on sensory quality, in which case Specialty always wins out over commercial coffee as it gets a higher score on the tasting card.
Drip coffee is a brothy slop. Mistakenly, in Italy we often use the term “caffè lungo” to mean espresso brewed with the filter method and this is by no means a “slop”. It is simply a very different beverage from espresso or moka, which allows the drinking ritual to continue for a much longer period. Think of when we want to sit at a table in a café and have a chat with someone, or we are working at the computer and want to sip a drink, or we are
reading a book. On these occasions the perfect coffee is filter coffee, a light, thirst-quenching drink with subtle flavours that is also enjoyable when it cools down to room temperature. The filter method is the most widely used coffee brewing method in the world and lends itself very well to be used with coffees of the Arabica species, whether light or dark roast, depending on personal flavour preferences.
Never add sugar to coffee . Yes, sugar can be added to coffee! In this case, it is no longer a natural beverage but becomes a sweetened drink that changes its flavour. A good quality coffee remains good even with sugar; indeed, often, the addition of the sweetener allows certain nuances of flavour to be enhanced that might go unnoticed in the case of the natural beverage. Another thing is the addition of sugar to coffee when au naturel the drink is too bitter, is astringent and perhaps has some burnt aromas, in which case the addition
of sugar becomes a necessary act to ‘knock down the bitter pill’. Sugar in espresso may make sense to enhance certain flavour characteristics but, generally, it does not give great satisfaction when added in larger volume drinks such as mocha and filter, where the natural sweetness of the coffee is already present and should be more than enough to satisfy any palate.
Single portion coffee is bad. Lie. Single-serve coffee is nothing more than an extraction system. Today, this system, divided between pods and capsules, with dozens of different systems, capable of covering an incredible range of tastes, aromas, technologies, beverage volumes and a wealth in terms of references that, thanks also to the simplicity of use, knows no equal in the world of coffee. Did you know that there are coffee capsules that cost as little as 10 per cup? To put it bluntly, you cannot compare it to the traditional espresso system at the bar using a professional machine, but that does
not make this category of coffee any less enjoyable. Another advantage? They promote the spread of coffee cards because they allow bars or restaurants to easily prepare different coffees with the same machine!
Never drink water after coffee. True, let’s see why. Coffee, like all beverages after all, should induce pleasure. Thus, when sipping coffee, once we have finished drinking it, we should experience such a pleasant sensation that we do not want to wash it away with water. We know that the aftertaste of coffee is made possible by micro oily particles contained in the coffee itself, which stick to the palate, allowing the aroma to be perceived retronasally even after 15-20 minutes. The taste of coffee is also very strong. Technically, therefore, if the aroma-taste complex is pleasant, drinking a glass of water after coffee would be like erasing the pleasure. Beware therefore when we drink water immediately after a coffee, it could mean that that coffee
was not pleasant and we want to get rid of the bad aftertaste it left in our mouths.
Decaf is bad for you. Absolutely false! The decaffeination process takes place on raw coffee beans, before roasting, using solvents that are able to extract the caffeine and leave the chemical composition of the coffee almost unchanged. Thanks to the refinement of modern decaffeination processes, it is possible to say that decaffeinated coffee is good (provided that an excellent quality coffee is decaffeinated), it is not harmful to health (in fact, no detectable residue of any solvent remains in the beverage), it can be drunk at
any time of the day, in fact, by law (in Europe) it must have less than 0.1% residual caffeine, a quantity so low that it has no physiological effect. How many times have you walked into a café or in the evening at a restaurant after dinner and wanted to have a coffee, but you have already reached your daily dose of caffeine and are afraid that you won’t be able to sleep afterwards? A good decaffeinated coffee is the solution to enjoy another good espresso!
Coffee is produced in Italy. Coffee is a tropical fruit, and grows in the belt between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, passing through the Equator. So what does
Italy have to do with that? Italy is the home of roasted coffee. Italians have many merits when it comes to coffee. In Italy, the first patent for an espresso machine was filed in 1884, again in Italy the Moka stovetop pot was born in 1933 and Italy is still the birthplace of the words Barista and Cappuccino, recognised and untranslated throughout the world. Italian-style coffee is a format exported all over the world, and the art of blending of our roasters is a tricolour boast. With more than a thousand roasting plants and hundreds of thousands of bars and cafés, Italy is certainly the country where the coffee beverage knows the most widespread diffusion.
