WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO A MODEL OF SUCCESS AND SUSTAINABILITY
FLORENCE MARKETS
MINIGUIDE TO AGRIGENTO
ONIGIRI FOR UKRAINE
FELLUGA VERTICAL
year 24 - number 154 - may-june 2022 - gamberorosso.it
SOMMARIO WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO A MODEL OF SUCCESS AND SUSTAINABILITY
FLORENCE MARKETS
5
Editorial
6
News
12
The Wine to Buy
13
Seasonal Cocktail
16
World Tour
40
Onigiri for Ukraine
44
The year of Lambrusco, a model of success and sustainability
60
Forty years of Terre Alte, the international superfriulan by Livio Felluga
MINIGUIDE TO AGRIGENTO
ONIGIRI FOR UKRAINE
FELLUGA VERTICAL
year 24 - number 154 - may-june 2022 - gamberorosso.it
16
70
Florence is not just the uffizi. Knowing it through its markets is an experience that should not be missed
86
One, none and a hundared thousand Agrigentos
96
Recipes: Sara Preceruti
102 2019
and 2020. Burgundy preview
108 Tasting
Notes
44
40 86
60
70
96
winegrovers in Friuli since 1963 www.pighin.com
“A long story to discover sip by sip.”
Trattorias and fine dining on the same level going forward An important barrier has fallen at Top Italian Restaurants, our guide dedicated to the best places for Italian cuisine abroad. We have as a matter of fact decided to replace the historical subdivision in our evaluations. With the “Gamberi” we used to point out and reward trattorias, with the “Forchette” we would evaluate restaurants. From the next edition this hierarchy no longer exists: trattorias and restaurants will be placed and evaluated on the same level. Both will receive a rating with Forchette, with the classic system going from one to max three. It’s a change that involves a conceptual leap: we strongly believe that a great trattoria is worth as much as a great haute cuisine restaurant, the championship they compete in is the same. It is not the price of the bill that gives identity to a restaurant, not even those recurring texture plays or those unjustified ingredients in the dish, added only to beautify the presentation. Even more we will hunt for authentic flavour, scrupulous ingredient sourcing: the product comes first. But often it is not enough, if it is not enhanced, starting from the cooking techniques, often a painful negative in trattorias where it’s common to have poorly cooked vegetables or fish. Then there’s the quality of the wine list, its user friendliness, the welcome, which must be first of all warm. Flavour and warmth must go hand in hand, in the dishes and in the dining room, always remembering that the ultimate goal of each dining establishment is to make customers feel good. In our guides this is a small revolution, which we will probably apply soon even in restaurants evaluated within our national borders. We certainly want to make it clear: today some of the best experiences of Italian cuisine are in restaurants far away from the stereotypes of fine dining cuisine, we think of trattorias but also some pizzerias, that the Michelin guide in a really unjustifiable way has never taken into consideration among the most coveted awards: its stars. In short, with the next Top Italian Restaurants guide we’re shuffling the cards, rewarding beyond the context and first impact. We are sure that this leap can benefit both the traditional trattoria, where change is too often seen as evil, as well as the fine dining restaurant, perhaps smoothing out the occasional excess that in recent years has alienated many people. Lorenzo Ruggeri
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NEWS
Food is Italy’s prime wealth
+21.6% relative to the first two months of the current year (after a record 2021 with 52 billion euro). In particular, and against expectations, Italian exports performed very well in the post-Brexit United Kingdom, while the collapse in China (–29.5%) is worrying, probably linked to the consequences of the pandemic. We must now assess the effects of the global crisis caused by the war in Ukraine: while in the EU Italy is firmly in first place for the production of rice, durum wheat and wine, the need to import soft wheat and corn (for animal feed) from abroad creates preoccupation.
575 billion euro, almost a quarter of the nation’s GDP. This is how much value food has generated in Italy in 2021, becoming the country’s primary wealth. This is what emerges from a Coldiretti analysis that also shows that during the same year, the Made in Italy food supply chain recorded a leap forward of 7% compared to 2020. The numbers included in the report on the Italian food system, moreover, are all impressive: 4 million workers employed in 740,000 farms, 70,000 food industries, over 330,000 dining enterprises and 230,000 retail outlets. In 2022 there was also a record increase in exports, with
We feed people. A film on José Andrés It is called We feed people, and from May 27 it is available on Disney+. A documentary shot by National Geographic in the wake of Josè Andrés, the Spanish chef stationed in America and founder of the World Central Kitchen project, born on the occasion of the earthquake that devastated Haiti in 2010, and today present where there is need with its mobile kitchens and hundreds of volunteers committed to bringing relief in difficult situations (recently, the project has also arrived in Ukraine). Already nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize in 2019, protagonist of press covers and capable entrepreneur, Andrés has dedicated the last decade to the humanitarian cause, and this is the central theme of the docu-drama directed by Oscar winner Ron Howard (director, among others, of A Beautiful mind and Apollo13), who followed the cook and his team in the field, interspersed with interviews with key figures of an organisation that based its effectiveness on the perfect management of resources.
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NEWS
The best food photos of 2022
The protagonist of the most beautiful food-themed photo of 2022 is an Indian kebab seller. Crowned winner is photographer Debdatta Chakraborty, who snapped a scene of everyday life in Kashmir, entered in the international competition Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year, which annually selects the most spectacular shots related to the world of food, and the many social, economic, political and religious relationships that it generates. As usual, thousands of applications came in. Among the winners, also an Italian, the Turin-based studio Plastikwombat, with the photo Carrot field forever (made for Bistrot Etiko in Turin), winner in the category One vision imaging cream of the crop. Among the most powerful shots. Among the loyal participants of the competition is also another talented Italian photographer, Marina Spironetti, who also this year brought home first place in the category dedicated to wine, with the photo entitled Architecture and wine. But Italy, in 2022, is confirmed as a real protagonist, also winning the gold medal in the Food in the field section, with Agricultural Art by Paolo Crocetta (in the same section, also the silver medal goes to Italy, for the shot by Alessandro Arnaboldi focused on the culture of olive oil). And again, in the competition dedicated to Food influencers, the winner is Elisa De Cecchi, with a typical Italian subject: the moment when you drain the pasta in the kitchen. Among the most powerful images, from the section Politics on food, is the image of a frowning child captured in Bangladesh; with an explanatory title, “Where dreams fly away.”
pinkladyfoodphotographeroftheyear.com
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UN RITORNO AL PASSATO PER REINVENTARE IL PRESENTE
UNO SPUMANTE BRUT MILLESIMATO CHE VA OLTRE IL TEMPO E LE CONVENZIONI UNENDO L’ELEGANZA DELLO CHARDONNAY ALLA FRESCA DINAMICITÀ DELLA GLER A. UN’EDIZIONE LIMITATA ‘VINTAGE’ CHE CELEBR A LA 40° VENDEMMIA DI CUVÉE DI BOJ.
NEWS
CANTINA ITALIA. Wine stocks in April at +2% over 2021. In Italian wineries, 53.8 million hectoliters present TOP 10 - PDO AND PGI IN ITALY (April 30, 2022)
Wine stocks increased in April 2022 compared to a year ago. There are 53.8 million hectolitres of wine, 6.1 million hectolitres of must and 161,732 hectolitres of new wine still in fermentation (Vnaif). The value of stocks, as reported by Cantina Italia, edited by ICQRF (Mipaaf), is higher for all product categories: wines (+2.0%), musts (+21.6%) and Vnaif (+30.8%). In comparison between April and March 2022, the figure is down for wines (–5.8%), musts (–10.7%) and Vnaif (–11.8%). 55% of the wine is held in the northern regions, mainly in Veneto. 50.4% of the wine held is in PDO, 28.1% in PGI, while varietal wines make up just 1.3% of the total. 20.2% is represented by common wines. The stocks of wines with geographical indication are concentrated, with 20 denominations out of 526 able to contribute to 57.6% of the total stocks. The PDO wine stocks amounted to 27 million hectolitres in April 2022, of which 12.2 million hectolitres of white (+0.7%), 0.88 million hectolitres of rosé (+31%) and 13.9 million hectolitres of red (stable on
PDO-PGI hl
%
Prosecco Dop 3.736.056
8,9
Puglia Igp 2.647.433
6,3
Sicilia Dop 1.674.843
4,0
Terre Siciliane Igp 1.607.208
3,8
Toscano-Toscana Igp 1.511.163 3,6 Salento Igp 1.485.689
3,5
Montepulciano Abruzzo Dop
1.473.845
3,5
Veneto Igp 1.265.406
3,0
Delle Venezie Dop
3,0
1.256.708
Chianti Dop 1.153.738 2,7 Source: Icqrf – Report Cantina Italia
2021); those at PGI amounted to 15 million hectolitres (+5.3%) of which 5.6 million hectolitres of white wine (–2.5%)0,57 mln of rosato (+3.9%) and 8,8 mln/hl of red (+11%). Musts amount to 6.1 mln/hl, up 21.6% over April 2021.
BRANDS. The Wine intelligence index confirms Australian Yellow tail. And in Italy the “strongest” is Ferrari Spumanti, followed by Berlucchi and Donnafugata The great world brands of wine strengthen their position in the beginning of 2022, improving somewhat compared to 2021, but they have not yet returned to the preenlargement levels. This is stated by the usual Global wine brand power index, edited by Wine intelligence (Iwsr group) and based on the positioning of wine brands in 25 world markets. In the special ranking, analysts con- 1 firm on the podium the clear dominance of the Australian Yellow tail (first) and the Chilean Casillero del Diablo (se- 2 cond), who are in first place in three of the 25 markets analysed. On the 2022 podium, 3 he also sets foot ano-
ther Australian, Barefoot, ITALIAN TOP 10 by Berlucchi and the who has gradually clim- 1. Ferrari Spumanti Sicilian brand Donnabed positions compared 2. Berlucchi fugata. Worldwide, the to the 13th occupied in 3. Donnafugata aggregate of the first 2019. Fourth place for 15 brands compiled by 4. Corvo Gallo, then Jacobs Creek Wine intelligence sees 5. Fontanafredda and GatoNegro. Strong higher scores than in 6. Mionetto ascent to Santa Carolina 2021 (+6.5 points) but in (seventh place), followed 7. Antinori the 2020/21 biennium by Mouton Cadet, J.P. 8. Feudi di San Gregorio the index is lower than Chenet and Lin- 9. Sella & Mosca in the pre-crisis. Accordemann’s. Well 10. Zonin ding to Lulie Halstead, also Apothic (14 head of wine for the Iwsr place) and Dark Group, The brands that will be sucHorse (+8 positions up to the cessful are those that will be able to 25th position). The index is resume the thread of the relationship obtained by aggregating with consumers and that will be able data on the consumption to guarantee the availability of the size of a given brand in each product and a competitive price in a market. In Italy, the top ten scenario of increases in the producbrands see Ferrari Spumantion costs and problems to the supti on the podium, followed ply chains.
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GAMBERO ROSSO X CANTINA PRODUTTORI BOLZANO
Cantina Bolzano, temple of design Cube-monument for Alto Adige wine 1
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3
A breathtaking landscape at the foot of the Dolomites, a winemaking vocation that has its roots in a centuries-old tradition and a pioneering vision that always looks to the future with the objective of reaching new goals. These are the solid pillars on which Cantina Produttori di Bolzano rests, one of the most important realities in the Alto Adige South Tyrol district, spokesperson for the wine culture of the area. Pillars that - beyond metaphor - also support the futuristic structure that houses it and which has now become an obligatory stop on local wine tourism routes for those who want to get to know South Tyrol and its wine culture. In fact, from a distance, you can already
see the majestic cube inside which, on five floors, the process of “free fall” winemaking takes place, exploiting the force of gravity. A natural process, in the name of sustainability, that tourists and visitors can discover and appreciate in person: upon request, for small groups, Cantina Bolzano organises guided tours for enthusiasts who wish to witness the journey of the grape. The wine-
THE CELLAR IN FIGURES
224 wine grower members 350 hectares of vineyards 3 million bottles
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making process is followed by a visit to the ageing rooms located in the basement of the winery, where the wine rests in barrels, barriques and tonneaux. Finally, the tour ends in the tasting room located in the Vinarius shop. For lovers of hiking, there are numerous experience possibilities for walking between the rows: from the discovery of the high altitude vineyards, reachable via the Renon cable car, to those located on the soft hills in the Rencio district, particularly suited for winemaking. A spectacle that’s not to be missed, especially during summer. The area of Bolzano is, as a matter of fact, one of the main wine areas of
GAMBERO ROSSO X CANTINA PRODUTTORI BOLZANO
1. The monumental headquarters of Cantina di Bolzano where the grapes are processed by gravitational fall, for five floors, from top to bottom 2. The barrel cellar 3. The vineyards surrounded by snow-capped peaks 4. The grape harvest along the South Tyrol rows around Bolzano 4
the province. The soils of the valley floor are well ventilated, characterised by strong temperature variations between day and night. Here the grapes grow on the slopes at an altitude ranging from 200 to 1,000 metres, acquiring characteristics of excellence. Examples are the two leading grape varieties of the district, of which Cantina Bolzano has always been a leading interpreter: Lagrein and Schiava. «Each grape variety has its own peculiarities, but above all needs that we must respect
if we want to obtain superior quality grapes,» explains oenologist Stephan Filippi. With this goal, the Quality Project was born 30 years ago: a program that follows all stages of production, with a special focus on the work carried out in the vineyard. Born for the realisation of Lagrein Riserva Taber – which over the years has obtained the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri recognition twenty times – the project has been expanded to include the produc-
Cantina Produttori Bolzano
Bolzano – via San Maurizio, 36 – 0471270909 – cantinabolzano.com
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Tre Bicchieri Santa Maddalena Classico Moar 2019
Produced on the slopes of Rencio, Moar has a history lasting for generations. The vineyard, with Schiava and Lagrein grapes, is planted with a pergola system, while the final wine is the result of a traditional fermentation and ageing in oak barrels. The 2019 vintage won the Tre Bicchieri of our Vini d’Italia guide, showing off a stellar performance, thanks to fruity aromas that follow notes of undergrowth, spices and fresh flowers. The taste is full, velvety and persistent with red berries, rose petals and a scent of bitter almonds reminiscent of marzipan. The result is a sip that gives immediacy and complexity at the same time. The perfect pairing? With tagliatelle dressed with game ragout, local carne salada and canederli.
NEWS
THE WINE TO BUY
RIDOLFI
Rosso di Montalcino 2020 Località Mercatali, 1 Montalcino · Siena www.ridolfimontalcino.it average retail price: 24 euros
Situated in Mercatali, on the northeastern slopes of the hill where the Montalcino town center lies, the estate-winery once belonging to the noble Ridolfi family (and today owned by entrepreneur Giuseppe Valter Peretti) is an essential benchmark for those who love classically-styled Sangiovese. It’s a story that’s come quite a way, as evidenced by the work carried out by Gianni Maccari (who worked at Poggio di Sotto), and that’s come together in a commendable portfolio in which various types of Brunello stand out (differentiated, in part, by the approach taken to maturation). We believe that Rosso di Montalcino 2020 is certainly among the best Rosso di Montalcino we experienced over the last years, an epitome of elegance and finesse. It pours a lovely, clear and brilliant ruby garnet color, announcing a complex nose that spans fruit, floral whiffs, pepper and licorice. On the palate it’s deliciously fresh, but also solid and rich, with harmonious tannins giving way to a very supple finish. The drinkability here is so joyful, finally a Rosso di Montalcino that is better than many Brunello on the market. This is faithful expression of the terroir and of the light vintage. Our tips? Pair it with a proper traditional lasagna and an old album of Bruce Springsteen.
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SPIRITS
SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by
1921 Martina Bonci, Gucci Giardino 25, Florence 5 cl Seedlip Spice 94 3 cl Pollen syrup 3 cl Lemon juice 4,5 cl homemade apple Kombucha
Glass: Collins Technique: Shake and Strain, Kombucha on top
1
921 is when it all began. In the small shop in via della Vigna Nuova, Florence saw the blossoming of what would one day become a fashion institution in the world: Maison Gucci. A birth celebrated in a sparkling and gritty cocktail, like a spring breeze. The pollen gives a green touch and earthy scents that blend with the pleasant effervescence of apple kombucha. Pollen and apple together make you think of the departure of winter that leaves room for spring. An alcohol free drink, which has nothing to envy to an alcoholic cocktail, suitable for everyone and indicated at various times of day. It is the right choice for a healthy aperitif, but it is also perfect for a regenerating mid-morning break, or to pair with a light lunch. The purifying properties of kombucha, associated with the antioxidant action of lemon and the ability of pollen to strengthen the immune system, help fight fatigue and stress, improving intellectual functions.
THE BARLADY: Martina Bonci is born Umbrian, from Gubbio. She has been fascinated by the world of mixology since she was a little girl and already at 16 she was experimenting behind the bar counter in her city. After moving to Perugia to study she became a volleyball player, but she didn't neglect her passion. Following an injury that forced her to abandon her sporting career, she began working in a bar in the town centre, realising that this would be her path. She then decided to immerse herself completely in the world of mixology, devoting herself fully to the study of spirits and mixing techniques. The most significant professional experience was in Florence at Gesto, where she worked for over 7 years, distinguishing herself in the city with the Best Signature Cocktail of the Florence Cocktail Week 2021. She has always worked in Italy, but she has travelled all over the world and in every place she has found inspiration and enriched her expertise. In September 2021, she took on the role of Bar Manager at Gucci Giardino 25, which officially opened its doors in February 2022. The attention to detail, the importance of ingredients, the brilliance of colours and elegance acquired by living the Maison Gucci in full were of great inspiration in creating her first drinks list, whose 12 cocktails are characterised by strong colours and well-defined, distinctive flavours. Behind every single idea and flavour there is the desire to convey her energy, personality and passion, and of the entire team. photo courtesy of Gucci
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GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTA LUISA
Tenuta Luisa, a family history 2
1
Tenuta Luisa, a winery located in Corona, a small fraction of the town of Mariano del Friuli in the province of Gorizia, boasts a history that goes back almost a hundred years: the first 5 hectares of vineyards were in fact purchased by Francesco Luisa in 1927. It is led today by his two brothers: Michele Luisa, oenologist, who manages the winery and the production of wines, and Davide Luisa, agronomist, who is in charge of the management of the vineyards and the quality of the grapes. Both are supported by an essential guide, their father Eddi who starting at only thirteen dedicated himself to the Estate trans-
forming it into a modern company, known and appreciated for its intense, complex wines, of great balance and elegance. Over time, important measures were introduced for the vinification in the winery and the management of the vineyards has become increasingly rigorous. With plans to continue along the path taken for several years now, which goes in the direction of respecting the natural ecosystem and increasingly improving the quality of the grapes used to produce its wines, Tenuta Luisa has opted for new and innovative agronomic practices. One of them is sexual confusion. It con-
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sists in spreading in the vineyard, by means of special “hooks”, the sexual pheromone that interferes with the one emitted naturally by the female of the target insect. The male is “confused” by the synthesis pheromone emitted by the diffuser, fails to intercept the female and the drastic reduction in mating results in a limited deposition of eggs and a significant decrease in the active population in the following year. This technique has allowed to completely eliminate insecticidal treatments in the vineyard. Moreover, for a couple of years, Tenuta Luisa, to protect the bunches and the leaves in a completely natural
GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTA LUISA
CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013
1. The Estate 2. Inside the winery 3. Michele and Davide Luisa in the vineyards
3
way, has introduced in its vineyards the use of sweet orange essential oil that comes from the pressing of the skins. Thanks to its breaking action of the cell walls it protects the vine from the action of fungi and moulds. The “late deleafing” instead, another important operation introduced for some time, which consists in the manual elimination of some of the leaves closer to the bunches, aims to create an ideal microclimate that allows not only
to bring the grapes to a perfect degree of maturation but also to keep them healthy. From the year 2021, finally, for the Merlot vine the pruning method called “Medoc” was adopted. This is a variant of guyot and provides for the choice of two shoots from 4-5 buds arranged at 45 degrees, not twisted on the bending wire. In this way the buds develop evenly, the future bunches are spaced and well exposed to light and thus the development of
Tenuta Luisa
Mariano del Friuli (GO) – Via Campo Sportivo, 13 0481 69680 – www.tenutaluisa.it
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rot is avoided. Thanks to this ability to combine tradition and innovation, to always look to the future without ever forgetting the past, Tenuta Luisa has been awarded the “Green Flag Agriculture 2020 - Agri-farmhouse section,” organised by CIA, Italian Farmers’ Confederation, now in its eighteenth edition. The “Green Flag Agriculture” is a recognition that rewards Farms and not only, that have particularly distinguished themselves in the policies of sustainability, environmental protection and landscape, promoting tourism in the territories, using soil rationally and working to improve the living and working conditions of farmers. Essential requirements for the award, which was presented in July 2021 during an official ceremony in the Protomoteca hall of the Italian Capitol, were precisely the investment plans aimed at safeguarding, enhancing and promoting agriculture, environmental sustainability and quality, typical agricultural and food and wine. This recognition, in addition to honouring Tenuta Luisa, making it proud of its work, encourages it to continue investing in research that proposes new techniques to improve the quality of grapes and wines.
EVENTS
WORLD TOUR. Gambero Rosso returns to London. Italian wines in UK up to 340 million euro
L
ondon Calling: The Tre Bicchieri World Tour landed in London on March 24th. On a beautiful sunny day an audience of enthusiasts and operators, restaurateurs and sommeliers, as well as specialised journalists and bloggers, poured in the afternoon at Hackney Town Hall, a beautiful and spacious location in the northern part of the city, to meet thirty award-winning producers and taste over one hundred labels of fine Italian wine. London has emerged from the pandemic, at least in terms of health provisions and public perception. The city seems to live a season of
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WORLDTOUR
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL ALSO WANTS RECOGNITION The masterclass organised during the event had the usual success. The crowded Italy in a Nutshell event, led by Marco Sabellico, also opened with a special seminar, Quality Olive Products, an ItalianGreek initiative whose protagonists are the Consorzio Italia Olivicola and the Greek consortia Agron and Axion Agro, with the contribution of the European Union. Under the careful guidance of Pasquale Costantino, expert panel leader, and with numerous live video contributions from Italy and Greece, British consumers were told about the system of quality control and traceability of olive products in both countries. This was followed by an extra virgin olive oil tasting mini-course, in which excellent Italian and Greek olive oils were presented.
creative ferment, new openings and renewed enthusiasm that only the Russian-Ukrainian conflict seems to cast a shadow on. But optimism reigns supreme in this market, which continues to be in a positive trend even in regards to European wines. According to Istat data, Italian exports throughout 2021 grew by 1.4% compared to 2020, at 273 million litres, approaching 280 million in 2019. The decrease in the number of bottled still wines (–3.2%) was offset by an increase
in sparkling wines (+5.9%). Considering the values, the turnover rises back by 5.1% to 742 million euro, against the 706 mln of 2020 and the 763 mln of 2019. Important, in this case, is the contribution of both bottled still wines (+3.4%) and sparkling wines (+7.3%), which exceeded 340 million euro. The confirmation of this interest in Made in Italy wines was also evident during the event. From the whites of Alto Adige to Primitivo di Manduria, passing through Amarone,
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Chianti Classico and Roma Doc, Italian wines continue to delight the British consumer very much. “It’s a great time for our export,” says Edoardo Di Rosa, director of Dionysus Culture Food, which selects imports and distributes Italian food and wine in England. “There are many new openings” he continues “and despite the problems due to Brexit, the demand for Italian products in this sector remains high. The Tre Bicchieri is an excellent opportunity to discover new products and expand our portfolio.”
EVENTS
THE SPRING OF ITALIAN WINE IN ZURICH During the Vini d’Italia event, we announced our Top Italian Restaurants in Zurich. The scene is getting more and more competitive.
A
After a two-year break, the Vini d’Italia event in Switzerland returned in grand style. With its lovely spring-like weather, Zurich welcomed 50 wine producers in the scenic location of Lake Side. The city is experiencing a period of strong economic recovery, even if many have confirmed that it never really stopped during the pandemic. The national figures on wine imports speaks for themselves: according to UN Comtrade, Switzerland imported 1.25 billion euros worth of wines in 2021, recording a growth rate of about 15% both in 2019 and 2020. As to the Italian imports, 2021 closed with 415.1 million euros, for an increase of 8.8% in 2020. Many new openings in the restaurant industry are showing a particularly golden time for the city. “During the crisis, we tripled our openings thanks also to the
VINI DEL PIEMONTE ON THE SPOTLIGHT
During the event in Zurich, the Consozio Vini del Piemonte arranged a special corner of tasting featuring a wine range of wine from the leading wine region. More than 40 wines were showased, collecting rare wines such as nascetta and ruché next to big Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera. I vini del Piemonte is a consortium created in 2010, which currently includes 230 wineries from all around the Piedmont region and is involved in marketing and promotional activities, such as the design and organization of fairs and events in Italy and abroad.
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WORLDTOUR
EVO TASTING IN ZÜRICH Olivicola offered an interactive tasting session about the identification and recognition of a quality extra virgin olive oil. For more than 10 years, the Italian recognized Organizations of Producers, members of Italia Olivicola, and numerous Greek recognized Organizations of Producers have been cooperating closely to a common traceability project for olive oil and table olives. During the seminar, quality Italian and Greek extra virgin olive oil were compared.s.
SANTA MARGHERITA EXPERIENCE AT THE ACCADEMIA DEL GUSTO In the heart of Zurich, the event saw as protagonists the Gruppo Santa Margherita, Winery of the Year in the Vini d’Italia guide, and the cuisine of Accademia del Gusto, Stefano and Marianna Piscopo’s restaurant. The tasted wines, narrated by Virginia Stancheris and Lorenzo Ruggeri, led the audience through the mountains of South Tyrol with the Kettmeir winery, till the highest altitude area of Chianti Classico with the Lamole di Lamole winery, flagship of the appellation with a great potential considering the climate trends. The Tuscan winery is celebrating its first year as certified organic company with a new range of labels. Pairings of the evening? The deep 2019 Kettmeir Pinot Bianco with raw tuna, vegetable brunoise and fried squid; the sleek 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Lareale with sumptuous fresh maritati pasta creamed with piccadilly tomatoes and aged cacioricotta cheese; the 2017 Gran Selezione Vigneto of Campolungo with braised beef and polenta. The niche 2017 Moscato Rosa by Kettmier to conclude, with just a handful of bottles produced. “We started working with Ca’ del Bosco, and we really appreciated the way they work, their professionalism and attention to detail”. During our blind tastings, we also enjoyed other wines, and so we decided to go for wineries such as Kettmeir and Lamole di Lamole to do a good job. The rebound effect here in Zurich is very strong, people are going out even more and drinking higher-end wines. We have been very close to the restaurant industry in difficult times and now this approach is paying off. As for our producers, “we are not interested in selling, but rather in creating a long-lasting trust relationship”, commented Gianni Vergani, one of the leading importers of Italian wine in Switzerland.
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delivery and the idea of launching the pizza a portafoglio. The Swiss are very receptive, they know how to recognize quality and pay the right price. They are willing to pay 26 francs (25.33 euro) for a pizza margherita. They are demanding, but they know how to reward and recognize merit,” asserted talented pizza maker Raffaele Tromiro. His new opening, Pizzeria Napulé Zollikon, was awarded Two Slices during the event. The Top Italian Restaurants guide also rewarded the work of Luigia Zurich, halfway between a solid pizzeria and a classic cuisine restaurant, earning it Two Slices. Two Forks, instead, for Adriano Peroncini’s Gandria, offering a very strict Italian taste, as well as for Accademia del Gusto, the brainchild of Stefano and Mariana Piscopo, undoubtedly one of the best expressions of Italian cuisine in Switzerland. Lastly, Two Bottles and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award went to Ornellaia, result of the partnership between the Bolgheri winery and the Bindella family..
SCANDINAVIA TOUR SPRING EDITION: THE PATH IS TOWARDS ORGANIC The Gambero Rosso World Tour plays three important cards in Northern Europe: under the lens are Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo. Keywords? Organic, biodynamic and natural, even at the cost of paying more. And, as a matter of fact, 2022 started with a value plus sign
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Three events in Northern Europe to launch the highly anticipated Prowein2022, where Gambero Rosso will be present with the Tre Bicchieri tasting on the eve of the trade fair and, to follow, with a series of seminars DENMARK. SPOTLIGHT ON ARTISANAL WINES Meanwhile, for the Scandinavian tour Copenhagen opened the events, on May 2, a few steps from the famous statue of the Little Mermaid. More than 30 Italian wineries reached the Langelinie Pavillonen, with its windows on the water, which were also the setting for two particularly popular guided seminars. The level of knowledge of Danish operators is undoubtedly among the highest in the world, with a curiosity for the new and small productions that have very few comparisons. Here the attention to organic and biodynamic reaches extreme peaks, many restaurants in the city that offer only natural wines, not without excesses, for an extremely fragmented scene. And the high markups - mirror of average salaries very different from those in Italy - do not curb consumption and thirst for new labels and territories. Overall, we are talking about a market that for Italy is worth 156 million euros (given Istat 2021). The beginning of 2022 – in particular the month of
COPENAGHEN. THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOWN
Italian-inspired pasta factories are expanding rapidly. Three of them were awarded during the tasting. These were Fabro e Il Mattarello, where the menu clearly speaks with a Roman dialect, and the Mastro workshop in Hellerup, just outside Copenhagen: all three awarded with Una Forchetta. The wine lists in the city are undoubtedly among the most sought after, varied and refined. Among the winners, stands out Pirlo, a place opened in 2021 in the Amager district, with an extraordinary amount of bottles, old vintages and labels, which won Due Bottiglie and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award. The selection of Mr. Brunello Enoteca is unique, Tre Bottiglie for a selection of Montalcino wines that has no comparison outside Italy. Finally, Tre Bottiglie goes to Enomania, in the Frederiksberg district, thanks to an exceptional selection of Italian and French wines, well divided, explained and paired with food. Certainly the quality of Italian restaurants in Copenhagen is among the highest in the world, with peaks that would be true excellence even back home.
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January – recorded an encouraging plus sign: 10.8 million euro of wines, against the 9.42 million of the same month of 2021, against a quantity in slight decrease: this shows an interesting increase in the average price. SWEDEN. A MONOPOLY OPEN TO NEW DEVELOPMENT On May 4 it was the turn of Stockholm, the tour moved to central Operaterrassen, with over 30 award-winning wineries, which in addition to offering award-winning wines, brought to tasting a rich selection of wines enprimeur, which will be evaluated in the next edition of the guide. In recent years, Systembolaget, the Swedish alcohol monopoly, has considerably expanded its portfolio of imported labels and denominations, opening up to very little-known styles and grape varieties in Sweden. “Small Italian producers are having remarkable success, especially thanks to the restaurant scene, many Swedish entrepreneurs are investing a lot in very accurate
VALTÈNESI’S VIE EN ROSE IN COPENHAGEN
Little colour, lots of flavour. These are the words that opened the seminar dedicated to Valtènesi, the rosé wine produced on the shores of Lake Garda, staged on May 2. Juri Pagani, of Consorzio Valtènesi and Lorenzo Ruggeri led the audience through 8 samples of the last vintage, plus a 2019 version, to test the evolution of the Italian pink reference for those who are looking for thin, fresh and sinuous textures. The average level impressed the operators. “Here in Copenhagen rosé is still sold only between spring and summer, but I was impressed by the quality of Valtènesi. They have complexity, lightness and ageing capacity. The seminar went beyond expectations,” said Rasmus Christensen, a Danish journalist. For sure, in recent years the territory has become aware of its means, with increasingly vibrant, territorial and contemporary wines in the proposal: dry, fresh and elegant. The results of our tastings, with well -earned Tre Bicchieri for the small area, testify to the growth of the district.
STOCKHOLM: PRESENTING THE AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS As for the Italian dining offer, the new guide has rewarded the following Trattoria Corazza, with Una Forchetta, Eataly with Due spicchi (thanks to the quality of its Neapolitan pizza, both alla pala and focaccias), and Enoteca Corvina, with Due Bottiglie recognition. The latter venue, in the heart of Gamla Stan, also won the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List, thanks to a selection of exclusive Italian wines, with a variety of styles, and a range of choices difficult to find even in major Italian cities. For the first time, also awarded a Orebro venue, CantinaN3, of native Sicilian Alessandro Granata, confirming how quality is increasingly widespread throughout the country. Very high participation of importers and restaurateurs, confirming an increasingly competitive and complex level: today Sweden offers an avant-garde food and wine scene, to keep carefully under close watch.
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wine lists, leaving the usual names and territories behind. Paradoxically, here it’s more difficult to work with Italian than local operators,” says Cesarino Gobbi, one of the most well-known importers of artisanal Italian wine. Numerically, this ferment turns into 102 million euro for imports from Italy in 2021, compared to 186.3 million in 2020. Clearly positive also last January, with 14.6 million euro, that is 2.2 million euro more than in January 2021, against quantities in decrease, from 4.32 to 3.86 million litres. NORWAY. THE DOWNTURN IS PAST The last stop was in Oslo, the event was staged on Friday, May 6 at the restaurant Campo de’ Fiori. There is no doubt that the Norwegian market remains one of the most insidious of the European markets, due to a still particularly rigid monopoly and a number of imported references well below the Swedish monopoly. However, the numbers of Norwegian imports from Italy - after the drop in 2021 that saw values rise from 122.7 in 2020 to 117.5 million euro are back in recovery: in January 6.76 million euro against 5.35 million in the same period a year ago. Slight increase in volumes, from 1.5 to 1.69 mln/litres..
OSLO: PIZZA AND WINE ARE THE PERFECT PAIRING
Something moves in the Italian dining scene, the best examples were awarded during the event. Among the pizzerias, Vesuvius was awarded with Uno Spicchio, while Una Forchetta went to Bono Traditional Food, small and solid venue for those looking for authentic and traditional cuisine in a context of imitations and recipes that upset our profile of flavours. Una Forchetta and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award went to Trattoria Popolare, among the freshest, largest and most stimulating wine menus in the city, thanks to the research work of artisan producers in the city. Due Forchette, finally, for the restaurant Campo de’ Fiori and the highest prize, the Tre Bottiglie, to Vinoteket, virtuous example of a dream wine bar and gourmet pizzeria. They open stellar bottles together with creative pizzas that arrive at the table already sliced, a format that we have already reviewed with great success in Germany. In Italy, on the other hand, the pizza-wine pairing has a harder time taking off.
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PHOTOGALLERY SCANDINAVIA
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ambero Rosso came back to Munich with an extensive tasting of premium Italian wines awarded in Vini d’Italia guidebook. The Tre Bicchieri World Tour reached Munich on Thursday, May 12. The event took place in the elegant Loewenbraukeller, that hosted a lively walk around tasting from 1:30pm to 7pm. The selection of wines featured a very huge portfolio of native Italian grapes produced by some of the most consistent and emerging wineries. The program included two masterclasses guided by Marco Sabellico and Gianni Fabrizio, Senior Editors of Vini d’Italia 2022. The first one, at noon, proposed a virtual and tasty trip from the northern tip of the Peninusula till the southern corner thanks to the selected Tre Bicchieri wines. The second one featured the ele-
MUNICH SHOW TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN MUNICH
Acquarello in Munich proved to be the one and only Three Forks restaurant all over Germany. Acetaia achieved two forks and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award thank to the best-articulated selections of Italian bottles in Munich, with a focus on native grapes, and a large amount of magnums. Martinelli also scored two forks, while Masi Wine Bar received one bottle. Lastly, Pizzeria 60 Secondi received two slices as top pizzeria in town.
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SANTA MARGHERITA WINERY OF THE YEAR 2021 CELEBRATES IN MUNICH.
it was a great evening at the Landersdorfer & Innerhofer restaurant on May 12th in Munich. Santa Margherita presented the wines of two of its premium wineries, the elegant sparkling wines from Kettmeir in Sudtyrol and the delicious Chianti Classicos from Lamole di Lamole paired to the creative and sophisticated recipes of Johann Landersdorfer. A great success!!!
gant Valtènesi rosé wines produced on the shore of Garda lake, a model of elegance. During the event, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Colli Tortonesi arranged a
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special tasting corner featuring the Doc wines produced in Piedmont, red and elegant white wines made in the hills around Tortona.
PROWEIN 2022. WAS MOVING IT TO MAY THE RIGHT CHOICE?
After two years of waiting, the fair in Düsserdolf has finally gone on stage. So much waiting and some perplexity for an unprecedented period that did not completely convince the participating companies. Among the new trends, zero alcohol proposals are on the rise. And on the eve of the Salone, the great tasting Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso by Loredana Sottile
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dition n.26 of Prowein (1517 May), in the coming years will be associated with the month of May. An unusual fair, which also marked the return after two years of stop because of the pandemic. The new location, however, was only “emergencial,” as demonstrated by the announcement already made of the next dates: 19-21 March 2023, with the intention of the Düsseldorf Messe to take its place in the annual wine calendar. But was this move really necessary? For Erhard Wienkamp, CEO of Messe Düsseldorf yes: “Because of the peak of Covid in the first quarter of the year we had to postpone all our spring fairs to May and June or even cancel altogether, as happened with the Boat Show Boot” says, in thanking all exhibitors and visitors for approving the postponement in May.
As Monika Reule, Managing Director Deutsches Weininstitut (German Institut), points out “The producers’ presentations naturally focused on the white wines of the 2021 vintage (those just released on the market; Ed.) which were very well received by German and international wine experts thanks to their freshness”. Satisfied Michael Degen, Executive Director of Messe Düsseldorf: “Two-thirds of the 38,000 professionals in specialized retail, food trade and hospitality who have travelled to prowein, come from abroad, confirming the international vocation of our fair”. Although, it should be noted that there were 61,500 in the last edition, that of 2019. As for the offer, on the other hand, prowein 2022 attracted 5,700 exhibitors from 62 countries against the 6,900 of the 2019 edition. But let’s talk about another “era”; the pre-pandemic one, in
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fact. Let’s see, rather, how this edition went in the comments of the participants. ITALIAN CONSORTIA: “A NECESSARY RETURN, HOWEVER SUBDUED” The feeling is that the move to May helped little to this return to the scene, despite the undoubted role of the Düsseldorf fair on the world wine scene. On the other hand, Italy was also the first country for exhibitors, with more than 1,400 registrations, while France stopped at 1,100 and the local hosts at 700. “Prowein has complied with our forecasts but with a smaller flow of visitors” commented to Tre Bicchieri Alberto Mazzoni, director of the Istituto Marchigiano di tutela Vini in Germany who showed up with 39 member companies, of which 24 of the collective coor-
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dinated by the Region. “Some of the
most important areas for the export of our wine were missing” continues Mazzoni “like Asia and America to which was added the lack of other strategic countries due to the new timing of the event. The German fair, for its strong commercial connotation, leaves no room for improvisation and impromptu initiatives. As a result, structured and more organised companies were able to complete their agenda of appointments, while smaller producers actually found themselves in difficulty. For this reason,” concludes the director Imt, “we hope that Prowein will return to its natural location next year, in order to favour the business of all our companies.” “Moving the date to May certainly did not benefit the German trade fair, which suffered the effects of happening later than Vinitaly and Wine Paris & Vinexpo
Gianni Fabrizio led, assisted by Fabio Ferrari of the Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco, a very crowded masterclass in Dusseldorf dedicated to the world of Lambrusco, always in the heart of German consumers, but that in recent years thanks to the commitment of the new generations of producers, has found new oomph and an allure that reposition it among the great Italian wines. And the Consorzio del Prosciutto Dop di Modena made the event even more “palatable,” a combination of territory that truly delighted guests
Paris” emphasises the Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino wine “Our companies have recorded a professional presence below average and unfortunately also a certain disorganisation in services.” Christian Marchesini, President of the Consorzio Tutela Valpolicella, was even more critical: “Unexpectedly we found some system failures and also a general disorganisation. The repositioning of the fair in May did not guarantee the presence of the operators we expected. In short, after three years of waiting, this time Prowein unfortunately did not hit the mark.” For the Lambrusco Consortium, the
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appointment - even in an unusual period - was however indispensable: “After the halt due to the pandemic, from our point of view it was important to be present at a reference event for international markets such as Prowein” said Tre Bicchieri director Giacomo Savorini “While the number of visitors was lower than in previous years, our companies present at the fair met their business contacts, strengthening relationships, as well as meeting operators interested in Lambrusco coming from very distant markets.” Today, in fact, the Consortium, with its 8 denominations, is present in over 90 countries around the world with about 60% of the production crossing
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national borders. One of the Gambero Rosso masterclasses in Düsserrdolf was dedicated to Lambrusco on the eve of Prowein. Positive but with reservations, was the comment of those who went to Prowein for the first time, like the Consortium of Primitivo of Manduria that participated in the German trade fair with 31 wineries. A sign of the growing interest received by the Manduria doc in Germany, which represents one of the first countries of destination: about 25% of total exports of Puglia wine. “For us it was a debut at Prowein” commented to Tre Bicchieri the President Novella Pastorelli “and this is a source of pride. Despite the absence of some world visitors - with Asia still practically closed off due to the pandemic and Europe inflamed by the Russian-Ukrainian war - several international buyers appeared at our stand to taste the Primitivo di Manduria. Countries like Spain, Argentina, Eastern countries like Vietnam and South Korea appreciated our labels and all have noticed the quality difference between our PDO and other Primitivo wines.” ALSO AT PROWEIN ZERO ALCOHOL WINE MAKES ITS WAY Beyond the business aspect, the trade fair was helpful in taking stock of current trends at Prowein. Among these, the increasing demand for zero alcohol wines, on which many suppliers are now focusing. The desire for non-alcoholic wine is making the rounds especially amid GenZs, those born from 1997 and among those who turn to so-called healthy drinks, with a lower alcohol content. At Prowein, too, a wide variety of suppliers from all over the world presented alcohol-free wines and spirits. Among these, the German
REGIONE LOMBARDIA PROTAGONIST IN DUSSELDORF
Marco Sabellico focussed on Lombard wines with a popular tasting session held with representatives of the consortia of Oltrepò Pavese, Garda, Valtènesi, Lugana, Montenetto di Brescia and Cellatica. A tasting made even more fascinating by the participation of two other prestigious consortia, Varzi DOP Salami, among the most valuable salami in the world, and Gorgonzola DOP Cheese Consortium, which offered two versions of this famous blue during the tasting, and which immediately turned into a pairing game. Equally crowded was the special Corner in the main hall where Lombard producers and consortia told German consumers about the most fascinating beauties and products of the region.
distillery Heinrich Habbel with a whisky made sans alcohol (naussu free) or Kolonne Null which, under the motto “Sober is the new cool,” offers non-alcoholic wines in collaboration with several wineries. In addition, during the three-day event, the Meininger Verlag Publishing House presented a selection of alcohol-free wines and non-alcoholic distillates, as well as the two trend scouts of Prowein, Paula Redes Sidore and Stuart Pigott, who put together a small selection of alcohol-free wines and non-alcoholic spirits for their “Trend Hour Tastings.” There is, in short, a market fro this. Now it’s important to learn how to intercept it.
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GREAT PARTICIPATION IN THE TRE BICCHIERI TASTING AT PROWEIN 2022 It was perhaps the most beautiful participation of Gambero Rosso and the companies awarded on Vini d’Italia with Tre Bicchieri on 14 May last at the German trade fair. There was an atmosphere of anticipation in the preceding hours after the problems of the last years, but from 1 to 7 pm the more than 150 producers present saw an increasing turnout in the beautiful Halle 1 of the renovated Prowein headquarters. It seemed impossible to fill, and yet... An intense and constant flow of visitors celebrated with Italian wine the
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opening of the now classic wine festival that opened its doors a few hours later. Over a thousand operators, journalists, sommeliers and enthusiasts crowded the stalls of Italian producers, happy to see them on German soil, signifying the return to long overdue normality. It was a busy afternoon of events, starting with Masterclasses - four to be precise - held by Gianni Fabrizio and Marco Sabellico, curators of the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia guide. During the event, the best Italian restaurants in Dusseldorf were also awarded. Piazza Saitta and L’arte in cucina won Due Forchette, Cucina Vitale entered the guide for the first time with Una Forchetta, as Linguini, awarded with Una Bottiglia. Tre Bottiglie and the Villa Sandi Best
Contemporary Wine List award went instead to Saittavini, thanks to its very deep cellar full of cult labels and old vintages. COMMENTS ON TRE BICCHIERI IN DÜSSELDORF Detlef Rosembaum, journalist and editor of the online magazine an den vier Enden der Welt told us: “We had been waiting for Prowein for months but also the return of Gambero Rosso and its top companies, which we have continued to follow and drink in these two complicated years. Prowein marks the return to the normality we’ve long dreamed of. And I must tell you that on this occasion I discovered many new Italian wines, such as Lambrusco di Sorbara and Nero di Troia, for example.”
THE WINERY OF THE YEAR CELEBRATED WITH A SPECIAL TASTING AT PROWEIN
Finally, there was a vertical tasting dedicated to the Winery of the Year according to Vini d’Italia 2022, prestigious Guido Berlucchi & C. of the Ziliani family, which has just celebrated its sixtieth anniversary since its foundation. Under the guidance of Sabellico crowds tasted the last expressions of the 61 line, the Blanc de Blancs, the Nature and the Rosé ‘15, then moved on to the vintages 14, 13, 12, and after a grand finale with one of the top cuvées of Italian oenology, Palazzo Lana Blanc de Noirs Extrême Réserve of the wonderful vintage ‘10. A Franciacorta that literally bewitched tasters.
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Conrad Mattern, connoisseur and fan of Timorasso, from Monaco where he attended the Gambero Rosso event on May 12th - joined us to participate at Prowein: “The charm of Italy’s wine is in its extraordinary native grapes that give unique and out of the ordinary wines” he told us. Confirming the growing attention to our wines that for years has placed us in first place as imports in Germany. “The German wine market for Italy is very important,” confirmed Luis Cavalieri, Consul General for Italy, who from Cologne reached Prowein “for us it represents one billion euro of annual turnover. And it is a market with further potential, that’s still growing...” The Consul also attended the award ceremony of Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide, which had numerous places of excellence in the capital of Rhineland Westphalia. Overall also the comments of the producers who participated in the trade fair in the following days gave us the measure of an edition perhaps not among the best in recent years, which has partly paid for the date change that placed it after other important European trade events, such as Vinitaly and Vinexpo. But 5,700 exhibitors from 62 countries and 38,000 trade visitors from 145 countries testified to the importance of the German wine market, crucial for Italian export, and the great enthusiasm and desire to restart after two difficult years worldwide. Business, in conclusion, was happening, and that is what counts. The Italian wine, once again, thanks also to Gambero Rosso and the Vini d’Italia guide, has marked another extraordinary success. Stay tuned: our appointments are not over! In a few days Gambero Rosso will be in Australia and New Zealand... It’s a never-ending-tour!!!
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WORLD TOUR. From USA to Mexico: Gambero Rosso brings Italian biodiversity to the world
H
OUSTON. After three years of absence, on April 21, Gambero Rosso returned to Texas, in Houston, with the Top Italian Wine Roadshow. The event was held at Minute Maid Stadium, the most important sports facility in the city, the beautiful home stadium of the Houston Astros. More than thirty Italian producers welcomed a large audience of wine lovers who celebrated Italian wine in what has been defined as the most important wine event since the end of the pandemic crisis. Since the morning, there have been masterclasses held by the curator of the Vini d’Italia guide Marco Sabellico with the collaboration of Mark Newman, expert in the US market and the Italian wine scene.
“Paradoxically, the two years of restrictions meant that people had more time
to explore the world of wine from the net, and e-commerce has brought many new consumers together,” says Giorgio Caflisch, wine consultant and trainer at the Texas Wine School “Now there is a flourishing of new restaurant openings, and the wine list becomes an important tool. New perspectives have opened up for Italian wine, which producers have understood they can exploit. Events like these are very important for them, for importers looking for new companies. The image of Italian wine is captivating and modern, and in addition to real commercial phenomena, such as that of Prosecco, important spaces are opening up in the market of fine wines.” Mary Ann Remollino Ellis of Tuttilili Fine Wines agrees: “Texans are enriching their private wineries with important
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Italian labels. The classic Piemontese and Tuscans, and the great Italian reds pull the sprint, but progressively also the whites of a certain lineage are gaining ground. Wine lovers are beginning to understand and experience that a great Italian white lives for a long time, and that Pinot Grigio and Bianco, for example, if they come from a prestigious terroir can give important emotions. Not just everyday wines, in short. The consumer here today more than ever wants to explore new paths.” The Masterclass was sold out and awards were bestowed to five important ambassadors of Italian culture entered the guide Top Italian Restaurants in the World closed on an important day for the Texas food and wine scene, increasingly interested in the complex and fascinating reality of Italian wine.
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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN HOUSTON During the tasting event, Gambero Rosso announced the top 5 Italian Restaurants in Houston. Pizzeria Solario achieved one slice as top pizzeria, Fresco scored one fork, fish restaurant Amalfi reached 2 forks as top fine dining in town. Vinoteca Poscol was awarded with two bottles, while the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award went to Roma thanks to a smart selection available by the glass, plus a very accurate collection that displays a wine range of Italian food-friendly wines.
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EXICO CITY. If Houston was a success, the April 26th Mexico City event was a real celebration. The location was very suitable: it was the Casa de la Bola Museum, a beautiful residence in the “virreinal” style or the Viceroyalty of New Spain, surrounded by a lush two-hectare botanical garden. In the 1940s it was transformed with eclectic taste from a country farm into a museum in which the important art collection of Antonio Haghenbeck is currently housed. Here, too, the event was chock full and attracted hundreds of enthusiasts and operators from neighbouring provinces, with the Masterclasses this time also held by Marco Sabellico assisted by Pablo Mata, well-known figure of
Mexican sommellerie. Instead, on the eve of April 25, the Italian ambassador in Mexico, Luigi De Chiara, wanted to celebrate the anniversary of the Liberation, inviting Gambero Rosso and the producers present at a dinner in his residence. “In Mexico there is great attention to everything that is Italian,” he said “Italian food and wine, in particular, exerts huge charm on Mexican consumers, and it’s an extraordinary calling card for all of the Made in Italy production.” At the event, the Ambassador wanted to personally present the awards to the eight Italian restaurants awarded by Top Italian Restaurants in the World. “Italy is considered a friendly country,” said Max St. Romain, one of Mexi-
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co’s top bloggers, known as @gastronautaDF “we are close culturally, offering refined and fascinating lifestyle and products. I see it from the success of my posts when they talk about Italian food and wines. It is important that you come frequently to cultivate one of the most sparkling food and wine scenes in Latin America...” “There is no other country in the world with your biodiversity of wines and styles, of grapes and territories” adds Ugo Hernàndez of Iznogood Vinos Orgánicos “and, even in the field of organic and natural wines, Italy is proving to have a lot to offer... In Mexico this is an important trend.” At the end of the day the 40 wine producers present were very happy, and of the 120 labels exhibited at the event there was practically not even a bottle left. ¡Que viva México! Finally, during the event were awarded the best Italian restaurants in the city. Among the winners stand out Il Becco at the Four Season and Sartoria, awarded with two forks, the Osteria del Becco that has won the three bottles for a collection of Italian dream wines, among the best in the world, and the Fornerìa del Becco, with two segments and the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List award for the best well-stocked wine cellar that accompanies gourmet pizzas.
GAMBERO ROSSO X ZENI
GO, Zeni1870’s Olfactory Gallery, pays homage to the hills of Lake Garda
Rummage through the drawer of memories and wonder for hours where you felt that particular smell before. Moved and assailed by nostalgia in feeling a scent that only in our childhood we had happened to feel. This and much more is our sense of smell, the most atavistic and primordial of the senses. To restore the role that the sense of smell deserves comes GO, the first Olfactory Gallery in Italy dedicated solely to wine, designed by Zeni1870, the historic winery of Bardolino.
GO was born from an idea of Elena Zeni who decided to propose a real journey in the senses to those who visit the cellar. The innovative project responds to the great desire of the Zeni family to underline the strong bond of the winery with the Garda hills on which the vineyards extend. Go is a real gallery, semi-dark, where, through a path to climb and accompanied by the notes of a piece of music composed ad hoc, with timbres and frequencies that stimulate olfactory concentration,
we try to recognize, broken down into 14 boxes, the bouquet of two wines. Each box contains an aroma whose name is not indicated. Walking down, on the other side of the gallery, inside another 14 boxes are indicated the names of the aromas and then the solutions to the olfactory test. A playful-educational path, an exciting game, but also a unique eno-sensorial tasting in Italy. A praise to the scents that tell, through the wines, enchanted lands and territories, between the lake, the hills and the first alpine re-
A unique experiential space in Italy, the historic Bardolino winery offers a journey through the senses to approach wine in a new way.
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CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013
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liefs, in an area that covers the five great Veronese DOC. Every year two different wines are presented in the gallery, to give light to the entire olfactory range of the production territories. It is an experiential space, where wine tasting crosses the technical boundary to get straight to the heart and mind, triggering new emotions. “I wanted to give a complete sensory experi-
Cantina F.lli Zeni
Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino Lago di Garda (Vr) - www.zeni.it/
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ence to the guests who come to visit us in the cellar – explains Elena – and so I imagined this space, inside our barrel cellar, even before it became reality. I wanted the tasting to go beyond the technical boundary and reach the heart and mind, as something unique». GO is always a new experience because it changes depending on the wines that are tasted.
ONIGIRI FOR UKRAINE “Calamus Gladio Fortior”, The pen is mightier than the sword, but food can be? Yellow and blue color. It used to be just a combination of primary colors for most of the people, but now everyone knows, it represents ears of wheat and blue skies stretch out above the field. Ukraine-when the name is called, it always comes with the numbers of sorrow these days. Two Japanese Chefs determined to fight for the humanity, not with bullets, with ballsmade with rice, Japanese comfort food, “onigiri”.
Words by Kyoko Nakayama
STORIES
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t is early April, sunny sakura blooming day, and people took off their chunky coats and in light spring attire. Aoyama, stylish central district area in Tokyo, unusual scenery caught the people’s eyes. Long lines of queues in front of a building. The queue continues to the courtyard of two-Michelin starred, elegant fine dining restaurant, “NARISAWA”. One by one, people in the queue receive a small packet made with bamboo skin. Very simple Japanese comfort food, onigiri- rice balls are in it. This is the launch of new project called “onigiriforukraine” to support Ukrainian children in difficult situation, the people in the queue are waiting their turn for the donation, and onigiri was the gift to the people who
donated more than 1000 yen ( apploximtely 7.3 euros). Europe-trained Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa and co-organizer, Chef Hisato Hamada from Wagyumafia, luxury wagyu restaurant in Tokyo, founded this project. Without pulling off any costs, such as ingredients and human resources, 100% of the money people donated goes to Children’s Emergency Fund by UNICEF to save the 7.5 million Ukrainian children. This project also has the meaning to unite people’s good intentions. The Japanese producers and suppliers also worked with them contributed to this project by sending the ingredients. huge red sea breams from two fish mongers, “Sasue Maeda” from Shizuoka prefecture, and “Tsuri Sengyoten” from Toyama prefecture,
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1. The Event 2. Onigiri
In the opening, Chef Yoshiziro Narisawa and Chef Hisato Hamada
ONIGIRI FOR UKRAINE
2
SYMBOL OF CONNECTING THE PEOPLE But, why it should be onigiri? “In other name of onigiri is ‘omusubi’, which direct translation is ‘bond’ or ‘connect’. Usually, onigiri is made for someone you care, to express love. It represents the connection between the people” Chef Narisawa says.
wagyu beef from “Ozaki wagyu ranch” in Miyazaki prefecture. Rice from 12 sake breweries and one wine maker from all over Japan. This project is based on the strong bond of the people. Ahead of that, they’ve already worked together in monthly predecessor project, called “onigiriforlove”, which was born during pandemic. This is the project Chef Narisawa and Chef Hamada travel to many regions in Japan to send onigiri for the medical staff for free to show the appreciation for their tireless work to fight against pandemic. Because of pandemic, restaurant industry was heavily affected, but instead of claiming it, they determined to “thank” the medical staff in the local regions, who were sometimes discriminated.
Indeed, from 4 am on that morning, one by one, the staff from both restaurants and volunteers from sake breweries and a winery come to the courtyard, and start cooking 230 kgs of rice. The rice was cooked and half of them is mixed with charcoal grilled sea bream and the other half is put the braised wagyu beef in the center. Roughly 50 volunteers surround the huge bowls of rice, made onigiri together. Not only sending rice from their region, many sake brewers from Aomori to Okinawa flew to Tokyo and joined the project. One of the volunteers, Ryuichiro Masuda, 5th generation of “Masuda Shuzouten”, known for its sake, “Masuizumi” came from Toyama prefecture, is busy carrying heavy colanders filled with 8kgs of rice. “I don’t want to be a person who just sit tight and do nothing. There’s the people who needs help, and as a human, I just do what I should do”. This is not the project just for the donation, but for “connection”. The project to express the sympathy and care to Ukranian refugees who has escaped to Japan. “Even they came to the brand new country, by making onigiri together, they could find the connection to the Japanese community.” On that day, 35 years old ex-teacher, just escaped from Dnipro, Ukraine, Marina Borodina and her 7 years old son, Ramir are taught how to make onigiri from the volunteers. “I’ve just arrived in Tokyo for the first time, so I only know few people here. But
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today, I feel very much welcomed by the 3 Japanese community. Also, I’m thankful to see many Japanese people are working so hard to help Ukranian children” Marina smiles. Yulia Zhyla, Ukrainian living in Japan pours out her heart. “I still have my family in Ukriaine, since my grandmother is too old to travel, so they determined to stay in my hometown in outskirt of Kiev. I’ve been feeling guilty even to drink a cup of coffee, since my family is having the difficulties to get even simple food, I’m only one who is living in a safe country and can appreciate the normal life. But today, I’ve found relief of my mind by making onigiri for the children in my country.” “I just would like to stand for humanity. Food is all about love and connect humans beyond the nationality. I believe in the power of the food” Chef Narisawa says. Chef Hamada continues, “By making onigiri, we would like to pray for the children in Ukraine. Onigiri is very simple food, if you have rice, water and salt, just cook rice, put some salt on your palms, and shape the rice into the balls, most importantly, put your good faith to the ball. You can make the simplest onigiri. Hope this project and humanism could spread to the world”. They did the second onigiriforukraine event on 2nd May in Yamaguchi prefecture, the total amount of donation is 1.7 million yen (roughly 12.5 thousand euros) It’s sad to see the world to be torn apart. But this onigiriforukraine expresses, people are people, the world over. We are just a bunch of reeds, the weakest in nature. Even though, we’ve built beautiful culture, because we are thinking, and also caring reeds, aren’t we? ››
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO A MODEL OF SUCCESS AND SUSTAINABILITY How did a historic wine, traditional in EmiliaRomagna, but very popular all over the world, become so successful throughout Italy and especially among young people? Quality, versatility, territory, marketing, all under the banner of image renewal and the construction of a team made up of new generations. Here is the secret of an exploit that points straight to sustainability: in the vineyard, in the cellar and as far as business is concerned
words by Giuseppe Carrus e William Pregentelli art by Carlo Alberto Giardina
STORIES
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arloforte, February 2022. In the small island of South Sardinia there is a tasting among wine professionals. This time it features bubbles, in a blind tasting. There comes a classic rosé method and, given the elegance and finesse, someone dares: it’s Champagne. Several colleagues follow each other, also convinced of this. Yes, it is Champagne. Too bad, however, that the bottle was a Lambrusco di Sorbara Metodo Classico. Excellent, very good. Or rather, not really, given the error of the experts; on the other hand excellent, given the excellent impression that the wellknown Emilia wine has made. Is it a sign that this is the year of Lambrusco? Maybe it is. Lambrusco has all the credentials to be able to be... Popular and also Pop (speaking of content and form) and the great international success; emblem of a territory and
TERROIR IN FIGURES
70 wineries belonging to the Consortium
16,600 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia 10,000 hectares dedicated to Lambrusco 46 million bottles of Lambrusco Doc per year 115 million bottles of Lambrusco Emilia Igt per year 60% total export THE ILLUSTRATOR’S TRAIT I imagined that every glass of Lambrusco was a window, a portal, that allows us to look beyond its content: Vineyards, shared reality, unexplored foods, lush textures of living grapevines, microchips and a look at the whole world. Each glass transports us to different places, united by a dreamy blue sky, foamy ethereal clouds and red soil that's bright and alive. – Carlo Alberto Giardina
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true ambassador of one of the areas with a major agricultural vocation; dynamic at the table: fantastic with local food, amazing with some great ethnic cuisines. Is Lambrusco all this? Absolutely not, it’s much more. Let’s start by saying that there is no Lambrusco, there are Lambruschi: different varieties, different territories, different colours! And each one has its own character, its own peculiarities. So we could talk about the great family of Lambrusco. Yes, no doubt, we like that definition better. It is no coincidence that for some time now, the family in question with its many souls lives under one roof, as it should be: that of a super Consortium that has grouped the existing. Unity is strength, they say. And today this family seems stronger than ever. uesta famiglia sembra più forte che mai. A BIG FAMILY, UNDER THE SAME ROOF Let's start from this last initiative to retrace the history of Lambrusco in Emilia: the decision to create a single consortium. In fact, Modena and Reggio have a long consortium history of over 60 years. The territory includes about 10 thousand hectares of vineyards in Lambrusco, with its various denominations. «We decided already in 2020, with a process that was implemented in January 2021, to concentrate resources and efforts in a single brand under the aegis of Lambrusco because we unanimously thought that it was more useful to present unitarily says Claudio Bondi, President of the Consortium - Synergy, optimization of resources, and prospects for the future: Lambrusco under a single name contains a plurality of different varieties. We thought that this could also work for the Consortium». In fact, together we can achieve many goals. The differences of the various territories must of course be exalted and certainly it will not be the merger of consortia to put a spoke in the wheel to this fundamental aspect. The only direction does not clash with our communicative purpose of telling the various terri-
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO
6 DENOMINATIONS TOLD BY THE YOUNG PEOPLE OF LAMBRUSCO The idea of giving life to the Youth group was born spontaneously, with the unification of the Consortia explains Claudio Biondi, President of the Consortium when the newly established management team realised the potential, energy, the enthusiasm and competence with which the new recruits looked to the future of their companies and, in general, of Lambrusco. It is a group of about forty girls and boys, often children of the owners or owners of wineries, administrators of cooperative realities, sometimes even winemakers or reference figures within them. They have brilliant ideas, often speak at least two foreign languages and are not afraid to get involved: it seemed right and natural to give them space and actively involve them in initiatives of the Consortium to communicate the soul of Lambrusco DOC in Italy and abroad. What will this new generation bring to Lambrusco? First of all passion, as well as a capacity for "vision" and a contemporary approach that we consider essential. All this is in harmony with previous generations, also thanks to the humble attitude of these young people: they are all aware that from experience one can only learn and in general there is an atmosphere of trust, synergy and collaboration.» We asked 5 young people of Lambrusco to tell us about the different DOCs of the territory. Here are the words of Silvia Zucchi, Alessio Altariva, Matteo Aleotti, Alessandro Medici, Julia Prestia.
torial aspects, the organoleptic nuances of the varieties. We put together the speech of the service centre, a single Director, a single administration», echoes Davide Frascari, Vice-President. ONE NAME, MANY DIFFERENT WINES At this point, a step back, or rather, a step inside the territories of Lambrusco. Bubbles and lively here are always accompanied by first-rate cold cuts, fried dumplings, to continue with rich first courses, from tortellini to cappelletti, to arrive at cotechino, passing through great DOP products
1 LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA DOC Composition Lambrusco di Sorbara: 60% min. Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce: 40% max. other Lambruschi and Uva D’Oro: 15% max. Among the various types of Lambrusco, the Sorbara is the one closest to the original Vitis Vinifera Silvestris. The territory of choice of this grape is to be found in the central plain of Modena, especially in the portion between the rivers Secchia and Panaro, which represents a sort of "classic zone". We are in the area north of Modena, where the soils are mostly sandy. This is already one of the reasons why Lambrusco di Sorbara is characterised by this great acidity. The microclimate contributes to this aspect, as well as the acing of which the cluster suffers. To understand what acidity is, it is enough to think that we collect our sparkling bases at the end of September, almost a month later than in other Italian sparkling areas, and all this despite the fact that we are in the plain. These characteristics make Sorbara excellent for the production of Classic Method and sparkling wines suitable for ageing. What do we combine it with? In addition to the local cuisine, it goes very well with fish. In Tokyo I tasted it with eel: highly recommended pairing. It is a Lambrusco with a strong identity, and the tastings confirm this: colour, acidity and sapidity are the guidelines through which are conveyed flavours and aromas reminiscent of rose, violet, small red berries.i. – Silvia Zucchi - Cantina Zucchi di San Prospero (MO) GAMBERO ROSSO
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THE 6 DENOMINATIONS (AND TERROIR) OF LAMBRUSCO
Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce Colli di Scandiano e Canossa Lambrusco Lambrusco Reggiano
Mirandola
Parma
Correggio REGGIO EMILIA
Santa Croce Sorbara
Lambrusco di Modena
MODENA
Scandiano
Lambrusco di Sorbara Castelveltro Bologna
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelveltro
ANCESTRAL AND CLASSIC METHODS The refermentation in bottle (both with ancestral method, and with classic method) is becoming increasingly established. The results are very convincing, especially with regard to the Sorbara. The acidity that gives the vine originates fresh, elegant and fine products with a remarkable persistence. We, moreover, have a great sparkling culture that has established itself in the last 20-30 years on our territory, it is the history of the Sorbara and the Classic Method that is derived from it: a particular grape variety, with all the cards in order to be able to make great sparkling wines able to deal with the products of the most noble areas. But it is still a potential to be expressed: there are still margins on field cultivation and research. Some results, however, have already arrived: it is not a hope, in many cases it is already a reality. As for the refermentation in bottle without disgorgement, the so-called Ancestral Method, I like to talk about a movement of rediscovery: we have returned to a conception of wine where yeast is no longer a fault, but rather is valued; it goes beyond the purely aesthetic aspect of the glass, to deepen the organoleptic characteristics. It is not a movement that concerns only Lambrusco, but in an area that traditionally produces sparkling wines this represents a sort of evolution of something that has always been done. – Giacomo Savorini, Director of Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco Doc
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such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Modena. The synergy with Lambrusco is on the plate and you can breathe in the air... The agri-food excellences of Emilia are absolutely important not only for the combinations but for the synergies that could be implemented. Giacomo Savorini, director of the Consortium, has no doubts about this: «There is room for improvement, because if synergies were to increase, they could become important communication tools also at international level. We are starting more consolidated relationships with the Consortia that protect these excellences to present ourselves in international projects, in community calls: because we think that one can give strength to the other in a perspective of enrichment of the offer. Lambrusco is the most exported wine in the world; this is the decisive step since there would be a mutual advantage. Lambrusco is a symbol of Italy and if we can link it not only to food and wine, but also to our technological
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2 LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO DOC Composition Lambrusco Grasparossa: 85% min. other Lambruschi and Malbo Gentile: 15% max. If in the Lambrusco di Sorbara emerges the identity of the territory in which it is cultivated, with Grasparossa comes out all the characteristics of the variety. The morphology of the appellation is a bit particular because it includes a flat area (south of the Via Emilia), up to the first hills of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. So we have an important diversity within the same denomination that also involves variability from the point of view of soils: we have more loose and soft areas, but also components rich in clay, especially in the highest area. The vine has a sparse cluster with a resistant skin, which protects it from some diseases: in the past, in fact, the harvest of Grasparossa was the last activity that was done on farms because of its resistance. The wine produced is dark, often characterised by a strong tannic presence, the fruit that emerges recalls blackberry and blueberry; the nuance of almond defines its contours. When the year is the right one (not too cool, not too rainy), Grasparossa di Castelvetro can give great satisfaction thanks to its incisively gastronomic verve. The local table is its perfect companion, but if we want to go on something more exotic but equally convincing try it with Asian cuisine, especially sweet and sour meat dishes. – Alessio Altariva - Fattoria Moretto in Castelvetro di Modena (MO)
industry, I think of the Motor Valley, we can create an experiential mix that is difficult to replicate in other areas of Italy.» THE STRENGTH OF BUBBLES But what is the story of this wine that finds in boldness its winning weapon? The past of Lambrusco is closely linked to the gastronomic traditions of this territory. The sparkling helps to promote digestion: being the Emilian cuisine tasty, having a product like this is almost providential. In addition, the grape is particularly suitable for this type of wine: the raw material is predisposed to
3 LAMBRUSCO SALAMINO DI SANTA CROCE DOC Composition Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce: 85% min. other Lambruschi, Ancellotta and Fortana: 15% max. Santa Croce is a small fraction of the town of Carpi: it would seem that the spread of this vine (whose elongated shape of the cluster resembles a salami, and therefore the name) towards the plain of Modena, devaluing even that of Reggio. The soils of the denomination are of alluvial matrix: sands, silt, clays, deposits that have formed over the centuries thanks to the work of rivers and floods. They are very fertile soils that together with the vigour of the vine lead the vines to be really very productive. The grape of Lambrusco Salamino is pretty dark; the resulting wine is full of colour. We could define it as the most "democratic" among Lambrusco, without the distinct acidity of Sorbara and the tannins of Grasparossa. It is the balance that emerges in the Salamino di Santa Croce, always fragrant and juicy, in the best versions also veined by subtle flavour: finds its raison d'être especially in the sparkling version, with the Charmat Method; some make traditional versions with the Ancestral Method; very few have experimented with it for the Classic Method. It is a wine that should be drunk young and fragrant, it is the wine of the table, perfect to accompany the first dishes of tradition, tortelli or cappelletti for example. – Matteo Aleotti - Cantina di Carpi e Sorbara in Carpi (MO) 4 LAMBRUSCO REGGIANO DOC Composition Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Montericco, Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Viadanese, Lambrusco Oliva, Lambrusco Barghi (jointly or separately): 85% min. Ancellotta, Malbo Gentile, , jagged-leaf Lambrusco “a foglia frastagliata,” Fogarina: 15% max. "Reggiano" by definition is a name that creates a final product that is generally very harmonious. We can use all the varieties of lambrusco for GAMBERO 2022but there is one that makes it a little master theROSSO production of our wine 49 MAY-JUNE
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over the others. It is the Salamino, but it is a bit different from THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO
refermentation, which once - until the arrival of the autoclave - was made almost exclusively in the bottle. Lambrusco is an emblem of its territory, it is the product of this area: for those who were born and live in this territory, for those who work the land is a kind of direct link with tradition. «To me, personally - says Frascari - remembers the grandmother who made wine at home, the old vineyards with expanded forms of breeding. Something little known, then, in the relationship of Lambrusco with its land, is its link with animal husbandry: we are in the territory where Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Modena are born, an area where there are several livestock farms. Where there is breed-
the one produced in Modena. First of all it is different for the soil, here in our country sometimes gravelly: it gives us a very balanced product between acidity, tannic component, and a fragrant fruit. The possibility of using many Lambrusco is not a mere commercial invention: rather, it refers to an agricultural tradition of the past when almost never a single type was planted in the vineyards. Today, however, producers tend to vinify varieties in purity, often even outlining real "cru". At the table? Cotechino with lentils and puree, but if we look out towards international cuisine then we find a great pairing with ramen. – Alessandro Medici - Ermete Medici & Figli in Reggio Emilia
5 COLLI DI SCANDIANO E CANOSSA DOC LAMBRUSCO Composition Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Barghi (jointly or separately): 85% min. Malbo Gentile, Marzemino, Croatina, Sgavetta, Termarina e Perla dei Vivi.: 15% max. We are in the hills with altitudes that reach and exceed 450 metres and great temperature variations. Our area is characterised not only by the presence of vineyards but also by many forests and small plots of arable land. There’s so much biodiversity. There is a lot of attention to the territory; people are aware and proud of the environmental heritage, but also historical, of the area. The soils are of different matrix: the first hills are mostly clayey, but, as you go up the soil becomes more loose and poor; the yields of our areas are rather low compared to the plain Lambruscos. The most cultivated variety in these parts is Grasparossa, the hilly lambrusco par excellence so that it also gives rise to a type of the denomination (the Colli di Scandiano and Canossa Lambrusco Grasparossa, with Grasparossa min. 85%). But it is not only the area of Lambrusco, in increasing popularity is also the spergola, a white grape that in the hills has its natural habitat. – Julia Prestia - Venturini e Baldini in Roncolo (RE) 6
MODENA DOC LAMBRUSCO Composition Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco di Sorbara; Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Montericco, Lambrusco Oliva, Lambrusco "a foglia frastagliata" (jointly or separately): 85% min. Ancellotta, Malbo Gentile, Fortana: 15% max. It is a denomination that practically embraces the entire plain of Modena and the first hills that separate it from the Apennines. As in the case of Reggiano DOC, here too there are many varieties; the wines protected by the DOC can therefore also of substantial diversity, ranging from the darker Lambrusco, made with Grasparossa or Salamino, to the lighter ones made with Sorbara; there are many possibilities offered by the name and each brand declines them according to its own will.
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ing there is production of organic substances: Lambrusco is a vine that benefits greatly from the organic fertilisation of the soil. And then the characteristics of Lambrusco, especially acidity, double tie it with the Emilian gastronomic tradition. The acidity in fact allows you to emulsify the fats of a cuisine that is quite rich in them.» NOT JUST A SPARKLING WINE But the beauty of Lambrusco, pardon, of the various Lambrusco, is that it's not simply a "mere" sparkling wine. Behind Lambrusco there is much more. You can immediately see it in the glass if you look at the colour. The confirmation comes immediately thanks to the nose and the taste leaves no room for doubt. Sparkling then, but also ancestral methods (back in the limelight in recent years), and Classic Method that is increasingly establishing itself, confirming the dynamism of the variety (see sidebar). In addition, there are many varieties with their small big differences, led by the Sorbara, Salamino and Grasparossa. To this NOT JUST LAMBRUSCO: FROM COLLINE REGGIANE HERE COMES THE SPERGOLA The Spergola is another big reason for satisfaction for our territory. It is a grape that is already mentioned by the Grand Duchess of Tuscany Bianca Cappello in some texts of the year 1500. It is a native white berry that represents the history of the Reggio hills. Its area of origin is precisely the territory of Scandiano, Albinea and Casagrande, is a very rustic vine that benefits from the mineral components of the foothills of the province of Reggio Emilia. Great work has been done for her recognition by Dr Marisa Fontana together with the University of Bologna and in the end its DNA has been identified because for years it had been confused with Sauvignon. It is a grape that is mainly sparkling, actually it was the first Classic Method of Emilia Romagna. And it lends itself to this type of winemaking: precisely for this reason there is an interest in its recovery and its enhancement. – Davide Frascari, Vice President Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco Doc
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THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO
are added the territories, thanks to which a real manifesto of biodiversity is created, with the restaurant that transmits, communicates, promotes, today and with an eye to the future, the various types of Lambrusco. «Where restaurant dining has made an important cultural step, you can find the Lambrusco because it has been known, assimilated and there is the ability to tell it. Where instead we have not yet managed to understand the different peculiarities and where in the common mentality Lambrusco is still just a simple sparkling wine, then we make more effort. It is up to us to make the restaurateur and, in turn, the consumer understand that everyone can find the Lambrusco suitable for their cuisine, the Lambrusco to tell and to value. Where we found the desire to confront and the desire to rediscover a product that sometimes still suffers a little prejudice, then the satisfactions have arrived - reiterates Savorini, who adds - all together we must create, from what could be a potential problem, an opportunity. So on the one hand the name of Lambrusco is known by everyone and represents a brand among the most popular in the world. For us it would be a mistake to ignore it. On the other hand we have the potential to bind it to the name of the different territories.» All this, of course, has its difficulties: but beautiful, ambitious projects with a vision are certainly not easy; yet the path taken is the right one. Since the name was born, Lambrusco around the world has become a brand. The different denominations today are known at a territorial level and by the most prepared part of the consumer public. But if we already leave the regional boundaries, Lambrusco loses a little of its identity to become a single idea of sparkling red wine. «For this reason - continues Savorini we are performing a veritable training towards the consumer and to do so we use the faces of producers: we asked them to be promoters of the different territories of Lambrusco and we are making a journey, party from Italy, to make known our 12 different vines, 12 facets, six denominations (see box). We believe that
Lambrusco has unique characteristics, because everyone can find their own taste, a matching, an occasion of consumption in the various phases of the day.» A SUSTAINABILITY MODEL UOne of the most interesting aspects of the Lambrusco universe is represented by the different producer realities: the small artisans are joined by family companies with a long tradition that, in turn, share this world with the great social cooperatives.
THE CONSORTIUM’S INITIATIVES FOR 2022 March tour of the best wine shops in collaboration with Gambero Rosso 10-13 April Vinitaly 23 April Milan, grand tasting counter at the Hotel Melià May Prowein Autumn tour of the best restaurants in Central and Southern Italy All year incoming with groups of Italian and foreign journalists
THE NEW WAVE OF LAMBRUSCO AS SEEN FROM THE WORLD Why the "new wave" of Lambrusco? It is all thanks to a new generation of producers that has increased quality and has focused significantly on the production of dry wines. They are producing wines that increasingly give back the sense of territory and varietal expression. Where once there were hints a little rustic excessively unbalanced on sweetness of ripe cherry, now there are richness without heaviness and elegant fruity sensations that make the Lambrusco a joy for the palate. In addition, in the best expressions, there are also fine and tapered tannic structures that make it the perfect wine for matching with the table. – Tom Stevenson, – Tom Stevenson, wine writer, founder of Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championship
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Managing a large consortium also means bringing together such different souls. But having different sizes and types inside a consortium structure is an absolute added value: there are companies that produce tens of millions of bottles and that have helped to export the Lambrusco name to over 95 countries, wineries that have roots in Modena and Reggio but have their head in the world; at the same time inside the structure there are winegrowers who, thanks to their skill and ability, have produced highend labels for a smaller market, local or national, but also to the haute cuisine. In the end, however, the goal is unique: that Lambrusco is increasingly consumed, more and more present, more and more known also from a cultural and territorial point of view. The companies have the need and the will to continue to produce Lambrusco, to make it known, to make it evolve and to enhance it to the fullest. And all this translates into sustainability: economic and social. But also
the environment: the protection of the territory, the protection of the health of the areas where the Lambrusco is produced and the guarantee, consequently, for consumers. In short, Lambrusco is a true model of sustainability that touches all aspects related to well-being. «We are working on a project related to the environment - said President, Claudio Bondi - over 90% of the wine of our territory is produced using integrated control methods. We are strongly oriented towards a sustainability path; we are working to create an area that is sustainable from an economic, social and environmental point of view. I want to mention for example the strong push of our associates for the conversion of the traditional vineyard to organic vineyard.» The reasoning is completed by the Vice President: «One of the parameters to achieve these goals is precisely the richness of organic substance of the soil and, as I said before, thanks to livestock farms our soils are already rich in microorganisms. Then the abandonment of weeding, also
TWO THOUSAND YEARS OF LAMBRUSCO
II - I century B.C. – Cato, Varro, Virgil mention in their works a "Labrusca vitis"
1814 – Count Vincenzo Dandolo publishes directions on how to properly produce and bottle "frothy wines"
2009 – In Vini d'Italia 2010 guide Lambrusco obtains Tre Bicchieri recognition for the first time. The Modena DOC is put in place
1972 – The Consortium for the Protection and Promotion of DOP Reggiano e Colli di Scandiano e Canossa
1971 – The Reggiano DOC is put in place 1970 –Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOCs are put in place
1597 – Andrea Bacci, physician of Pope Sixtus V, praises the vineyards cultivated between Modena and
1961 – The Historical Brand Consortium Lambruschi Modenesi is born
II - I sec. a.C. 1500
1800
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2000 – The Historical Brand Consortium Lambruschi Reggiani is
1976 – The Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa DOC is put in place
2000
2021 – 2021 – The Consortium for the Protection of Lambrusco is born, bringing together the numerous consortia present in the area
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO
this is an aspect already present in the sensitivity of our producers who have already done it by choice. In short, it becomes easy to certify something that’s already put in place. We must improve the system of water management: we are lucky to have a territory where water is still quite abundant, but for this very reason we must not waste it. We must ensure that irrigation is used exclusively as a means of relief and not as a productive stimulus: here there's room for improvement.». EVOLUTION OF WINE TOURISM A sustainable model is also a model capable more than any other to attract tourism: this is where the territories of wine must aim.
Wine tourism is the evolution that wineries have been called in the last ten years. It is an activity closely related to agriculture: today it is no longer true that the winery must only know how to make wine. Today a winery must know how to tell its story, and must know how to welcome guests. The wineries are asked to show professionalism that fifteen years ago was non-existent in certain areas. «As a Consortium - Director Giacomo Savorini explained - on this topic we work a lot on an institutional level. Emilia-Romagna is divided into the so-called "tourist destinations", territories that have come together to promote: on the one hand we are lucky to collaborate with Bologna-Modena, on the other with Reggio-Parma-Piacenza. Obviously the Emilia Romagna Tourism Promotion company sees in Lambrusco a very important reference, so much so that since last year, every 21 June will be the "Lambrusco Day," a moment when we will launch our wine and we will do communication activities because Lambrusco is an icon of Emilia, known all over the world. We are working as we said before to create synergies and new opportunities. I want to mention, for example, our sponsorship to Energica, a leading company in the construction of electric motorcycles, to return to the speeches made about sustainability. We must link these activities with the culture of our territory and to all this connect all our food and wine excellences. If we can create a team of this type, we can aspire to play really high level competitions.» Wineries have the duty and the task, therefore, to keep up with the times. Today, a wine producer requires great skills: in receptivity, in speaking languages, in knowing how to face a market, in knowing how to organise a fair, in understanding what customers want and updating on their needs.
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THE TABLES IN THE LANDS OF LAMBRUSCO EXTRACTED FROM RISTORANTI D’ITALIA 2022
Campogalliano (MO) Laghi loc. Laghi Curiel - via Albone, 27 059 526988 - ristorantelaghi.it
Carpi (MO) Baldini fraz. San Martino Scuole via Livorno, 30 - 059 662691 Trattoria Cacciatori via Griduzza, 1 059 650551 - @ trattoriacacciatori1972 Trattoria Cognento via delle Nazioni Unite, 7a 059 8638022 - cognento.it
Castelfranco Emilia (MO) La Lumira c.so Martiri, 74 059 926550 - ristorantelumira.com
Finale Emilia (MO) Entrà via Salde Entrà, 60 0535 97105 - trattoriaentra.it Osteria La Fefa via Trento e Trieste, 9c 0535 780202 - osterialafefa.it
Maranello (MO) Cavallino via Abetone Inferiore, 1 0536 944877 - ristorantecavallino. com
Modena Antica Moka via Emilia Est, 1496 059 284008 - anticamoka.it Archer via C. Battisti, 54 059 237656 - archermodena.it L'Erba del Re via Castel Maraldo, 45 059 218188 - lerbadelre.it La Franceschetta 58 via Vignolese, 58 059 3091008 - franceschetta.it
STORIES
LE TAVOLE DEL LAMBRUSCO MODENA Archer
Parco Giardino Ducale Estense Palazzo Ducale
L'Erba del Re Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
Hosteria Giusti
Duomo
Mercato Storico Albinelli
Il Fantino
Teatro Sorchi
Osteria Francescana Parco Sandro Pertini
La Franceschetta 58
200 m
«OH, THE BOTTLE IS EMPTY ALREADY?» Not just a territorial wine or a popular beverage, not simply a multifaceted wine, not an international wine, not a peasant wine. The strength of a glass of Lambrusco is to contain all these and many other aspects and to remain, as Veronelli said, a Human Wine. A cheerful, bubbly and convivial drink that contains a universe but does not need to shout it to the world. He feels comfortable at home, on everyone’s tables but does not let himself be intimidated by the wine list of the most prestigious restaurant. Today we are fortunate to witness the revenge of Lambrusco, in particular in the form of a renewed appreciation of one of its many facets: craftsmanship. Quality that only in recent years has become a quality. This is how today we can propose the Lambrusco of the smallest farmer of Castelvetro also in the most renowned starred restaurant. Of course, traditions are important and it cannot be denied that Lambrusco is born as a refermented wine. But from birth - I will always thank that wonderful mistake! - today Lambrusco has matured, has evolved and has been able to adapt to the times, without ever betraying its roots. Do we really want to define it? Lambrusco is a pop wine, to the rhythm of that Alliance Ethnik song "Simple et funky". It’s always okay, as long as there is! My favourite Lambrusco? What makes you say, "Oh, the bottle is already empty?" – Silvia Campolucci, sommelier at Cavallino in Maranello (MO)
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LAMBRUSCO IN THE WORLD AND IN THE FUTURE Known, appreciated, consumed locally, increasingly in demand abroad. In Toronto, a few years ago, we stumbled upon a wine bar that also offered some cocktails made with wine. We were offered an Italiano, their version of the Americano: Bitter di Milano, Vermouth di Torino and splash not of tonic but rather... Lambrusco di Sorbara! With a lot of explanation on the Sorbara type. Long live Lambrusco, therefore, in Italy and in the World. Also because it is a product that could not live without export. It is very present in historical markets for Italian wine, from the United States to Mexico, from Canada to Central and South America. But there is also space throughout Southeast Asia: countries where millions of potential consumers are entering the world of wine. In short, the path is marked, it
THE YEAR OF LAMBRUSCO
Il Fantino via Donzi, 7 059 223646 trattoriailfantino.com
Entrà
Trattoria Cacciatori
Brescello
Baldini
Trattoria Cognento
Finale Emilia Parma Laghi
Carpi Ravarino
Reggio Emilia Quattro Castella Traversetolo Ca' Matilde
Campogalliano Rubiera
Osteria Francescana via Stella, 22 059 223912 - osteriafrancescana.it
Osteria La Fefa
A Mangiare
Il Grano di Pepe La Nunziadeina
Nonantola
Osteria di Rubbiara
Modena Castelfranco Emilia
Scandiano
Castel Maggiore
Antica Moka
Bosco
Arnaldo Clinica Gastronomica
Nonantola (MO) La Nunziadeina via Vittorio Veneto, 95 059 541112 ristorantelanunziadeina.com Osteria di Rubbiara loc. Rubbiara - via Risaia, 2 059 549019 - acetaiapedroni.it
Quattro Castella (RE)
Maranello Osteria del Viandante
Hosteria Giusti v.lo Squallore, 46 059 222533 - hosteriagiusti.it
La Lumira
Bologna
Cavallino Irina Trattoria
Ca' Matilde frazione Rubbianino - via della Polita, 14 0522 889560 - camatilde.it
Ravarino (MO) 10 km
Da Amerigo
Il Grano di Pepe via Roma, 178a 059 905529 - ilgranodipepe.it
Valsamoggia
Reggio Emilia THE HUGE POTENTIAL OF LAMBRUSCO AT THE TABLE Many know of my propensity to serve on our dishes mainly wines from the Colli Bolognesi, chosen from the menu dedicated to them. But if someone asks me which is the Emilian wine that has grown the most in recent years, the most intriguing and the one with the greatest potential, I have no doubt: Lambrusco. I do not make distinctions between provinces, denominations, varieties and shades of colour, but I certainly speak of fermentations in bottles. It is there that the highest quality expression, the utmost originality of a wine unique in the world, must be sought and found again. The plain single varietal offers fine, elegant, savoury products as well as that of hill takes us to drink ancestral, round, rich and underlined by unexpected tannins. Then there are the "blends" of varieties that lead to a different balance and less extreme wines. Very interesting is the road that lately leads to the recovery of old vineyards, sometimes pre-phylloxera and almost always "blended." A biodiversity given by ecotypes that are historically set, only seemingly randomly alternated on the row, which give ancient wines but contemporary in conception. All this is certainly good for a world, that of Lambruscos, which is slowly attracting a new, heterogeneous and increasingly large audience. – Alberto Bettini, owner of Amerigo dal 1934 in Savigno (BO)
A Mangiare v.le Monte Grappa, 3a 0522 433600 risroranteamangiare.it
Rubiera (RE) Arnaldo Clinica Gastronomica p.zza XXIV Maggio, 3 0522 626124 - clinicagastronomica. com Osteria del Viandante p.zza XXIV Maggio, 15 0522 260638 - osteriadelviandante. com
Scandiano (RE) Bosco loc. Bosco, 133 0522 857242 - ristorantebosco.it
Valsamoggia (BO) Da Amerigo loc. Savigno - via G. Marconi, 16 051 6708326 - amerigo1934.it
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STORIES
is the right one, but it takes the constant effort of everyone to arrive at a successful future, in Emilia, in Italy, in the world. According to Davide Frascari, the future depends only and only on the people of Lambrusco: «If we focus on distinctiveness, quality, tradition, the "real" Lambrusco, in my opinion it will be a future of satisfaction. We need to work on communication: Lambrusco is no longer just a "supermarket" wine, we have cleared its intrinsic quality, but we must continue to work on this aspect. Even giving up on parts: I do not know how much it still makes sense to continue making the Lambrusco PGI, also because going towards the DOC there is the greatest possibility of product control (being one of the best-selling wines in the world, the chances of falsification and imitation are around the corner, Ed.). It would be a strong signal. The world asks for quality and we can offer it to them with our history. If we work like this, our children will continue to plant Lambrusco enriching the territory.»
"THE TABLES OF LAMBRUSCO AROUND THE WORLD". WITH LAMBRUSCO DOC AND PROSCIUTTO DI MODENA DOP In autumn 2021, the Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco, together with Consorzio del Prosciutto di Modena, launched an ambitious project: the Giro del Mondo (World Tour) with Lambrusco DOC and Prosciutto di Modena DOP among international cuisines, in 6 events throughout Italy. Opportunities for information and promotion that have combined the Emilian specialties to Asian and Latin-American fusion cuisine through the declination of typical products in an innovative and modern fashion. The project involved well-known restaurants that were able to take up this challenge, relaunching the image of products with a historical name and deeply linked to the territory, discovering at the same time the highest quality and surprising versatility. These events involved journalists, bloggers, operators and enthusiasts that
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have been guided by the speakers who have illustrated the multiple possibilities of matching the six different DOC of Lambrusco with their varied palette of colours and flavour shades. The meetings have given rise to evenings in which the proposals and combinations have been included in the menus of restaurants, finding feedback among a wider audience. The exhibition has been realised thanks to the precious support of the RDP Emilia-Romagna 2014-2020 which sees the two Consortia together in a joint promotional campaign aimed not only at the national but also at the German market: the return in May, after two years of postponements, del Prowein will give the opportunity to Lambrusco DOC and Prosciutto di Modena PDO to be present with a workshop in Düsseldorf to attract the attention of buyers and importers.
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Ottaviano Antonio
FORTY YEARS OF TERRE ALTE, THE INTERNATIONAL SUPERFRIULAN BY LIVIO FELLUGA The Terre Alte is rightfully one of the iconic wines of our country. It falls there by origin, history and quality. Like few other Italian white labels, it has made its way among the many great reds produced in Italy and appreciated all over the world. We present it in 8 vintages from 1996 to the present day
words by Gianni Fabrizio – photos by Francesco Vignali
STORIES
T
he Terre Alte was born from the union between a man out of the ordinary and the territory of which he fell in love as a child. In the 60s-70s of the last century began the recovery of local white wines, for too long produced with primordial techniques and strongly penalised by the absence of modern winery instrumentation: often these wines were tired and heavy, if not even oxidised just a few months after the harvest. At that time, in the hills that divide Gorizia and Udine from Slovenia, a handful of idealistic winemakers followed the example of Livio Felluga rightly considered the founding father of viticulture in Friuli and one of
the pioneers of modern Italian enology. At that time, Friuli paved the way for the stylistic renewal of Made in Italy whites: the aim was to adapt them to the taste of the times with an eye also to the international scenario. Enough to excessively light wines and, above all, enough to oxidise and rustic whites. TERRITORY & GEOGRAPHY Having fallen in love with the richness and diversity of this land since youth, Livio had the intuition and perseverance to bring together in Friuli wines all the diversity that this border territory - not only geographical but also linguistic, ethnic and religious has been able to express in culture
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STRADDLING 3 CENTURIES
1861 –The grandfather of Livio Felluga grows grapevines in Isola d’Istria (Austro-Hungarian empire)
1938 – Livio moves to the wine country in Friuli, but WWII puts a halt to his wine dreamsi
1920 – Livio’s father moves to Grado. Over time the boy continues to observe his grandfather’s farming 1918 – Isola d’Istria becomes Italian 1914 – Livio is born, under Austrian rule 1861
1910
1920
1930
FELLUGA. TERRE ALTE IN VERTICAL
1940 – Livio is sent to war on the African front. He returns after a long imprisonment and begins to grow
1968 – The first Friuli DOC is born
1960 – The winery grows extending towards Collio and Rosazzo
1950
1981 – Maurizio works on the first version of Terre Alte
1960
1970
1980
GAMBERO ROSSO
2016 –Livio passes away at the age of 102
2012 – Class magazine 2018 – Third generation, with crowns Terre Alte ‘09 as the Andrea’s daughter Laura, enters the best Italian white wine business
1970 – Maurizio, Livio’s son, enters the business. The first Picolit is made 1989 – NThe Rosso Sassò is born
1956 – The label donning a geographical map is born, tying wines to terroir
1940
1990 – Andrea, Maurizio’s brother, covers the oenological side of the business. “Illivio” is born and gentle moments in oak barrels are introduced
2010 – The DOC Rosazzo is born
1990
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2022 – Terre Alte is crownedWhite of the Year by Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2022
2009 – Honorary Degree in Viticulture given to Livio Felluga
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2000
2010
2020
STORIES
A great wine in 8 vintages 2018
ROSAZZO TERRE ALTE
The 2018 was born in a vintage among the best ever. After a perfect spring, the summer was warm but with regular rainfall and good temperature variations. The harvest allowed us to wait for the optimal ripening of the grapes and a perfect organisation. The dress is intense straw-yellow but also has light gold reflections. At the opening the aromas of sage and asparagus are the classic ones of sauvignon, then the nose opens with notes of plum and hawthorn with balsamic memories and hazelnut flavours. On the palate it shows elegance and persistence and a fresh character with good acidic tension, balanced by a powerful body not free of fatter moments. A great white still in its infancy stage.
2014
ROSAZZO TERRE ALTE
The 2014 vintage had a climatic trend with below average temperatures. After an early vegetative start, a long cool and very rainy period considerably lengthened the cycle and delayed the harvest. The vintage offers us a very young white. The nose, perfectly in line, opens on sulphur-mineral notes and slightly pungent hints of ginger, then comes the green aromas reminiscent of asparagus. On the palate it has a nice finesse and good length. It has nice sapidity and freshness: a small wonder of essentiality.
2011
ROSAZZO TERRE ALTE
After a wet and rainy early spring, the weather was beautiful until the harvest that yielded perfectly healthy grapes. This wine partially divided our committee: the majority appreciated its richness, while someone judged it too fatty. The nose expresses the complexity of this harvest with aromas ranging from spices (anise), aromatic herbs to finish with notes of plum, peanut butter and resin. It fills the palate with richness expressed through a nice tactile sensation of fat and velvet, harmonised by a discreet acidity. Very persistent finish. GAMBERO ROSSO
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and traditions. From this ancient but at the same time modern vision, settled over the years in the mind of the "patriarch" - was born in Brazzano di Cormons in 1956 the company that in the last sixty-five years has accompanied the history of modern Italian wine, writing some of the fundamental pages of Friulian oenology and among the most important: stories that have laid the foundations for our winemaking philosophy; and this not only from a technical point of view but also and above all from an intellectual one. The idea of the geographical map, recognisable among a thousand, that from the beginning dresses the bottles of Livio Felluga, is a brilliant marketing idea ante
w w w. p u l l t e x . c o m
STORIES COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ROSAZZO BIANCO TERRE ALTE
2010
Rather cool year. The whole season was characterised by extraordinary rainfall that accompanied also part of the harvest. Terre Alte 2010 still shows a magnificent bright and vivid straw colour, reminiscent of the freshness of the vintage and the wine. The nose is intense and multifaceted, as happens for the less warm vintages, and opens on notes of sage and anise, then there are fruity and floral aromas, too. An essential gustatory phase, with a less imposing body, is echoed by a great finesse combined with magnificent acidic and salty sensations that give personality to the long finish.
COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ROSAZZO BIANCO TERRE ALTE
2006
After a very rainy winter, the weather adjusted, favouring a good budding in the usual times, but subsequently the spring returned bad with wet and very rainy weather. A very hot and even, at times, dry summer caused a great water stress to the vine, but fortunately abundant rain in August allowed correct completion of the ripening. The first impression is that the cork may have collapsed. The nose, at first glance, allows the perception of more evolved notes of walnut husk, cookies and dried fruit: only at a later time did we perceive hints of aromatic herbs. The mouthfeel retains good persistence but the finish remains soft and slightly evolved.
COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ROSAZZO BIANCO TERRE ALTE
2001
A sprouting occurred in normal times was followed by a flowering in fairly good climatic conditions, accompanied by low rainfall. During the summer the weather was beautiful, with warm and dry climate conditions and occasional rainy intervals in late August to facilitate the completion of ripening. The 2001 vintage combines a brilliant, intense, yet young golden colour with an intense and complex olfactory phase that offers spicy (anise), balsamic (resin) and smokey aromas. There are also dried fruit memories. Initially, in the mouth richness and fatness emerge, then the palate becomes more harmonious, although retaining its powerful and voluptuous character.
COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ROSAZZO BIANCO TERRE ALTE
1998
Although no information is available on the year's climate, from the wine it can be assumed it was a vintage with average temperatures and good fluctuations in the month before harvest. The dress shows a magnificent light gold hue still rich in brilliant reflections, while the nose, after the first uncertainties (cooked apple), is appreciated for its complexity and particularly varied aromas. The beginning leaves ample space to the beautiful notes of Mediterranean maquis, dried flowers, peaches in syrup and saffron. Then slowly making their way are aromas of white truffle resin and cereals. The palate is also rich and creamy but it remains very vital thanks to the beautiful fresh lashing and the magnificent saline sensations of the long finish.
COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI ROSAZZO BIANCO TERRE ALTE
1996
After a mild and rainy winter, between February and March the sun and cold arrived. April had a normal climate, while in May it rained abundantly. Fortunately June was characterised by summer temperatures and sunny days. The summer was without excessesive heat and marked by many rainy days, which continued until the harvest, without creating major problems. The olfactory entry, rich in complexity, openly reveals the original vines, especially Sauvignon with its aromas of anise, laurel and medicinal herbs. Soon after come intriguing notes of salt and oyster, which give the wine a strong and singular character. On the palate it expresses fullness and pulp of the great vintage, but also the finesse and balance brought by a not too hot harvest. A great wine that's still able to last.
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litteram that combines wine to its territory of origin. THE EVOLUTION OF THE CELLAR Today the company led by the four siblings, children of Livio (Maurizio, Elda, Andrea and Filippo) can count on 187 hectares of vineyards, including the 30 owned by the Abbey of Rosazzo, between Manzano and San Giovanni al Natisone in the province of Udine and between Cormons and Dolegna del Collio in the province of Gorizia. Andrea, as well as managing director, is in charge of production, while Filippo is in charge of the vineyards, Maurizio and Elda for their part deal with commercial aspects and cultural events. Today, with Laura, daughter of Andrea, who supports his
Group photo of participants in the vertical. Standing from left: Lorenzo Ruggeri, Alexandr Smirnov (Wine Weekly Newspaper and Provina. ru), Marco Sabellico, Michael Godel (WineAlign.com), Masakatsu Ikeda (saporitaweb.com), Giuseppe Garozzo Zannini Quirini (@agrodolce.it @ jamesmagazine.it @vinodabere), Giuseppe Carrus. Seated, from left: Michal Setka (Wine & Degustation), Olga Pinevich Todoriuk (Drinks+ Magazine), Filippo Felluga, Gianni Fabrizio, Veronika Crecelius (Weinwirtschaft) and Laura Felluga. In the photo on page 64: Laura and Filippo Felluga
FELLUGA. TERRE ALTE IN VERTICAL
uncle Maurizio, the third generation is already actively involved. FROM THE SINGLE VARIETAL TO THE GREAT BLENDS For many years the company has carried on the philosophy of single varietal - including the cultivars of French origin present for over a century in Triveneto - becoming, also thanks to the geographical map, a successful company. At the end of the 70s the Italian wine world and in particular the Tuscan one, eager for success and international comparison, began to produce wines resulting from blends between indigenous and non-native varieties, aged in barrique. In this productive turmoil the Supertuscan wines that mark the
beginning of the success of American critics for Italian wine in general are born out of the DOC. It was in those years that between the young Maurizio and the then winemaker of the winery was born the idea of a Friulian white of great body obtained from the blend of different varieties cultivated in the company. This novelty was approved, not without hesitation, by Livio who claimed, however, linked as it was to his territory, that it was born within the doc and (from the second year) that he brought the label with the map. TERRE ALTE, SUPERFRIULAN In 1981 is the birth date of one of the first Superfriulan in history, the Terre Alte, a white of great body able
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to age long in the bottle. The original blend that involved slightly more than 50% of Friulano, that is to say Tocai Friulano according to the old local name, about 25% of Sauvignon and about another quarter of Pinot Blanc, then widely confused with Chardonnay, was never overturned, although over the years the wine has undergone slight changes. Since the mid-90s, with the arrival in Andrea’s winery, the original recipe of Terre Alte has been further developed, selecting and delimiting the best vineyards of origin of each variety interested in cutting. The plots useful for the production of what has been elected "White of the Year" in Vini d’Italia 2022 guide cover about 12 hectares around Rosazzo.
LIVIO, THE GREATEST FARMER OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY WHO INVENTED TERRITORIAL MARKETING Affirming that Livio Felluga was the greatest farmer of the twentieth century, as Luigi Veronelli loved to call him, there is no wrongdoing to those who did this hard work during the 1900s. What today may seem like the greatest winemaker of our time has always remained, by his choice, a farmer. The patriarch of Friuli wine was born in 1914 in Istria, today a town in Slovenia. In reality, that area was a borderland not only from a geographical point of view, but also from a historical point of view. In those Austro-Hungarian lands, where Italian culture had long been an important part of the mosaic - here dominated for centuries the Serenissima, the Republic of Venice - Livio’s grandfather cultivated malvasia and refosco. In the 1920s Livio's father moved to the other side of the Gulf of Trieste, in Grado, to carry on the work of the family that traded wine. At that time, Livio, still a boy, often accompanied the santolo (godfather in local dialect) when he moved between Udine and Carnia to sell the family wine. Slowly, in this shy but willing and visionary spirit, the dream of producing wine in the hills of Friuli was gaining ground. This seemed to come true in 1938, when Livio, against the will of his father, moved to Friuli, but the war postponed his dream. A dream that finally became reality in 1956 when Livio, thanks to his stubbornness, opened his winery in Brazzano di Cormons. Since then history travelled fast and the wines 'with the map' became synonymous with quality wine in 80 countries. In 2022, almost five years after the death of the patriarch, his vision is a consolidated reality: his hills, the hills of Friuli, once poor producers of everyday wine, have become the production area of great elegant and long-lived whites. His legacy can only be a magnificent starting point.
STORIES
Today Terre Alte, which became Rosazzo Docg with the 2011 version, has a production of about 40,000 bottles per year, except in the most difficult harvests in which the selection of grapes can slightly change the varietal composition and significantly reduce the total of the bottles. SENSITIVITY IN THE CELLAR Vinification follows a very simple scheme where the sensitivity of Andrea Felluga is very important: the grapes, harvested by hand, are brought into the cellar in small boxes and, after a delicate destemming, remains for a short time in maceration; is then gently pressed. The must begins the fermentation in steel tanks,
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Livio Felluga
Cormòns (GO) fraz. Brazzano via Risorgimento, 1 048160052 liviofelluga.it
then ends the alcoholic fermentation and carries out all or part of the malolactic fermentation in large oak barrels, where it remains in contact with the fine lees for a longer or shorter time that can sometimes reach up to nine months. During this period of time the wine stabilises and acquires a particular creaminess, acquiring an undoubted vocation to the long ageing in bottle, as evidenced by the vertical that we present.
Vini Alto Adige: quando il vino racconta un territorio
L’Alto Adige è un territorio piccolo dove convivono insieme elementi diversi che in questa terra riescono ad accordarsi in un’unica armonia. Baciati dal sole mediterraneo, cresciuti nel territorio alpino, vinificati da vignaioli esperti, apprezzati dagli appassionati di tutto il mondo. Tutto questo sono i vini dell’Alto Adige.
www.vinialtoadige.com
FLORENCE IS NOT JUST THE UFFIZI. KNOWING IT THROUGH ITS MARKETS IS AN EXPERIENCE THAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED Is there a better month than May to visit Florence? We thought that a way to get to know the truest soul of the Tuscan capital, is to explore the Florence of its markets: between San Lorenzo - the Medici district that has become a Babel of languages and ethnicities - and Sant'Ambrogio - the Pratolini district, away from the tourist buzz - it's still possible to get to know a city that changes, yes, but that remains true to itself, especially in some corners less beaten by mass tourism. Discovering a monumental city where art and lampredotto speak the same language
words by Emiliano Gucci – photos by Paolo Della Corte
STORIES
1
G
oing to the Mercato Centrale, for the central city dwellers of Florence meant doing the shopping in the best possible way, period. For some it still is. For those arriving from the suburbs, however, or from nearby cities, it was an almost philosophical choice. For example, arrive at the station, by train or bus, and rather than straight for Santa Maria Novella, the Duomo and so on, turn into Via Sant'Antonino and dive into San Lorenzo, the Medici district that has always been noble and popular. Here art and history form a whole with shops and inns, trattorias, winemakers, with stalls of merchants that from the square of the church arrived at the central market, a second cathedral. In the middle, you imagine the bustle of people and colours, the smells,
the chatter and the negotiations: as if it were a temple, you found the sense of Florence among the products and the goods of all Tuscany, with the stuff to eat that filled the eyes and shopping bags, even before bellies. Then the world changed, the country changed and Florence changed, the neighbourhood changed and the market also changed, caught between the regeneration of its inhabitants, the political choices, the supermarket fever and the dynamics of a global tourism that seemed inexhaustible forge. And always divisions, hugs, bickering and harmony between Guelphs and Ghibellines, «the city has become a manger, it's almost unrecogniseable.» Finally, the last two years once again changed the picture, forcing us to review plans and strategies. At least those who had one. Is it still possible to find Florence, its
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character, its identity, among the folds of the historic city markets? SAN LORENZO, NOT JUST ART AND TRIPE For some time the streets of the San Lorenzo district have been a Babel of languages and ethnicities, this is answered in rhyme by the shops and refreshments. So it will not be difficult to get a kebab or a Chinese ravioli, and there are also good ones, made by hand, with veal and onion or with pork and bamboo. If it’s time for breakfast and we aim for more "homegrown" flavours, on the corner of Via Sant'Antonino and Via dell'Ariento there is the Sieni pastry shop, from 1909, where you can bite into the legendary pastry with cream and listen to the first jokes in Florentine, and nearby the bakeries with sweets and savoury, rags and
FLORENCE THROUGH ITS MARKETS
2
IDEAL SUPPORT FOR RESTAURATEURS What you see of the historic Florentine markets is only the tip of an iceberg, while the work behind it is immense, as well as the service they manage to give to the city. This is the best part. Think for example of the very good butchers, what they have been able to build over time. Of course, the average consumer buys a "braciolina" there on the butcher's stall but often there is an operating base that offers excellent support to restaurateurs, and this is a real privilege. For us who cook, having those who guarantee the quality of the meat, and carves it well, is fundamental, especially in a tradition like the Tuscan one where we transform little, the recipes are simple, based on the quality of the raw material. The main example is steak: if the meat is bad, if the cut is bad, how can we make something good out of it? – Paolo Gori, Chef at trattoria da Burde, Florence
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1. Marcello's stall at the San Lorenzo Market: he sells cod, cheese and seeds that in dialect is "civaie" 2. San Lorenzo, the historic fiaschetteria da Mario 3. Lupen e Margo, tripe and lampredotto by Beatrice Trambusti, at historic stall number 75 in via dell'Ariento
FIRENZE VISTA DAI SUOI MERCATI
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FIRENZE IS CHANGING, TRIPPA AND LAMPREDOTTO AREN’T My favourite cartoon was Lupin, and so Lupen e Margo (purposely misspelled, in Florentine style) became the name of my business, and even before that it's the names of my two dogs that have long been with me. When I was a young girl I worked as a leather worker, then my sister married a tripe seller and they convinced me to change: with my mother and my brother we opened the first kiosk in San Lorenzo. It was very small, one metre by two, and it is a pity that Mom could not see the new stall, the historic number 75: if I continued in this venture, it is precisely because of my love towards her. It is a job that requires passion, patience, knowledge. I cook the tripe in the classic way, with carrot and tomato and celery, and the preparation is long, even more than when boiling the cheek, which sometimes reaches five days. Since street food has come into style, everyone wants to try the lampredotto, which is very delicate to prepare and spoils easily. It is cooked in vegetable broth, then served with salsa verde made with parsley, capers, onion and garlic, or in red version, with chilli. The recipe has been the same for four generations, but Florence has changed a lot, and so has the market area. Now the competition between restaurateurs is ruthless, while before the problems were different, but there was a lot of work. That said, I keep shopping at mercato centrale, because I don’t really want to go to the supermarket. – Beatrice Trambusti, owner og Lupen e Margo
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pancakes if the season is right. Here you wander among the external stalls of the market, today mostly of leather clothing, you can reach the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels, where every stop is worth the price of the ticket. If lunch is a serious snack, at the kiosk of the Fratelli di Mare you eat bread and octopus all'arrabbiata, or fried cod, while at the Casa del Vino sandwiches and croutons of high level (not to mention the glasses). Tripe and lampredotto, undisputed kings of the "poor" Florentine cuisine, are instead proposed by Lupen and Margo (see box), stall number 75 that in San Lorenzo is now an institution. And then, inside the nineteenth-century structure of the Central Market, 5,000 square metres designed by the architect Mengoni on the example of Les Halles Parisian, iron and glass, with the same typi-
EATING AND SHOPPING AROUND THE MARKETS INTORNO AI MERCATI
STORIES
Mercato Centrale p. zza del
cal modularity of the sales stalls. Where there’s plenty to eat.
Mercato Centrale
via dell’Ariento
0552399798 – mercatocentrale.it storicomercatocentrale.it Ground floor: monday to friday 7 am to 3 pm, saturday from 7 am to 5 pm
THE HISTORIC GROUND FLOOR MARKET Now that the external stalls of fruit and vegetables are no longer there (they filled the square behind them to the face of the taverns), the entire food sector of the historic Central Florentine Market is conveyed to the ground floor, in its grid of streets ordered on a chessboard. «But the market is still alive,» says a farmer who witnessed the change, «we always find quality and courtesy. Of course it is a life of sacrifice, not everyone likes to make it». Some shutters are lowered and the typical Florentine language is intertwined with the funny accent of foreigners, some sell products of their country and
Upper floor: daily from 10 am to midnight
Coffee bars and pastry shops Antica Pasticceria Sieni via dell’Ariento,
29 055 213830 – pasticceriasieni.it La Ménagère via de’
Ginori, 8r 055 0750600 – lamenagere.it
Street Food Lupin e Margo via dell’Ariento, banco
75 366 4526367 – lupenemargo.it Fratelli di Mare p.zza
Madonna degli Aldobrandini 338 4516318
Casa del Vino via dell’Ariento,
16r 055 215609 – casadelvino.it
4
Restaurants and Trattorias Trattoria Zà Zà p.zza del
Mercato Centrale, 26r 055 215411 – trattoriazaza.it Osteria Pepò via
Rosina, 6r – 055 283259 – pepo.it
Trattoria Palle d’Oro dal 1860
Sant’Antonino, 43 055 288383
via
trattoriapalledorofirenze.com
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi p.zza di
San Lorenzo, 8r 055 281941 – @TrattoriaGozzi Osteria Cipolla Rossa
Conti, 53r 055 214210 – osteriacipollarossa.com via dei
Trattoria Mario
Rosina, 2r 055 218550 – trattoriamario.com via
Mercato Sant’Ambrogio p.zza
L. Ghiberti 335 6644410 – mercatosantambrogio.it da lunedì a sabato dalle 7 alle 14
Street Food Semel p.zza
L. Ghiberti, 44r
Tripperia Pollini
Macci, 126 334 7782350 – tripperiapollini.com via dei
Restaurants and Trattorias
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others have taken over local activities. «Here there were 86 butchers,» recalls Luciano Manetti, one of the oldest of the trade, «now we do not get to ten. Things have changed a lot». Today several shops sell tourist products, tricolour pens and colourful bottles, but in certain pinches the price is always high and the proposal varies, ranging from meats to cheeses, from legumes to stockfish. And always beautiful is the fat. «The taste of the steak depends on the choice of the breed and we rely on Chianina, Marchigiana, Maremmana», says the young Oliviero, son of Massimo Manetti with whom he shares a rich counter of preparations, «such as rabbit with figs and pears, from an old recipe of Carmignano. We go to meet customers and with the pandemic we are better equipped for home deliveries.» The scent of bread invites you to
FLORENCE THROUGH ITS MARKETS
EATING AND SHOPPING AROUND THE MARKETS San Lorenzo
Sant’Ambrogio Tripperia Pollini
Osteria Pepò Trattoria Palle d’Oro dal 1860 Trattoria da Mario
Mercato di San Lorenzo
Piazza del Mercato
Chiesa di Sant’Ambrogio
Trattoria Zà Zà
Cibrèo
Il Pizzaiuolo
Lupen e Margo
Samel Casa del Vino
Antica Pasticceria Sieni
La Ménagère
Cappelle Medicee
o
Largo Annigoni
M Sanercato t’Am di bro gi
Gilda Bistrot
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi
L’Ortone
Basilica di San Lorenzo Fratelli di Mare
Le Murate Osteria Armanda 1926 50 m
Osteria Cipolla Rossa
50 m Restaurants and Trattorias Coffee bars and pastry shops
Firenze Rifredi
Street Food
Palazzo di Giustizia
Farmers Markets
La spesa in campagna di CIA Via Maddalena
Parco delle Cascine Stadio Stazione di SMN Teatro del Maggio Mercato Campagna Amica di Coldiretti
San Lorenzo Santa Maria del Fiore
Firenze Campo di Marte Sant’Ambrogio
Piazza Alberti
Contadini in piazza di Altrarno APS 1km
Giardino di Boboli
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San Miniato al Monte
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Cibrèo
STORIES
Macci, 122r 055 2341100 – cibreo.com via dei
Il Pizzaiuolo
Macci, 113r 055 241171 – ilpizzaiuolo.it via dei
stop at I' Forno del Mercato, where Lory, 25 years in business, bakes all manner of Tuscan wood-fired DOP and over twenty types of cantucci, from the classic with almonds to red ones made with alchermes, up to vegan declinations. Michele Marconcini, dealer of flasks since 1957 but also of Chianti Classico and Brunello, talks about olive oil and wine. At the market there is no one who sells pasta and toilet paper, now that kind of shopping is made elsewhere. We also sell something for tourists, but mostly good products for everyone», such as balsamic vinegars and distillates. Among the Florentine patrons, the most recurring phrase is «the stalls have all become trattorias», and in fact placemats are spread everywhere. The proposal is Tuscan, almost uniform in its variety. Intuition and eye (and nose)
Osteria Armanda 1926
Macci, 74r 055 292385 – armanda1926.it via dei
Gilda Bistrot p.zza
L. Ghiberti, 40r 055 2343885 – gildabistrot.it L’Ortone p.zza
L. Ghiberti, 87r 055 2340804 – lortone.it
Country grocers CIA Parterre
Libertà 055 233801 – mercatoparterre.com all fridays from 8am to 2pm piazza della
Piazza Alberti ciatoscanacentro.it/mercati/ all saturdays from
8am to 2pm
Via Maddalena
055 233801 ciatoscanacentro.it/mercati/ all thurdsays from
8am to 2pm
Farmers in piazza di Oltrarno APS Piazza Tasso all fridays from
5
4pm
Mercato Campagna Amica di Coldiretti Piazzale delle Cascine campagnamica.it/la-nostra-rete/mercato/ mercato-di-campagna-amica-di-firenzecascine/ all saturdays from
8am to 1pm
ADDRESSES TAKEN FROM RISTORANTI D’ITALIA 2022 BY GAMBERO ROSSO Enoteca Pinchiorri Ghibellina, 87 055 242777 – enotecapinchiorri.it via
Da Burde Pistoiese, 154 055 317206 – vinodaburde.com via
Enoteca Bruni Ognissanti, 25 055 3880177 – enotecabruni.it borgo
Le Bistrot dell'Hotel Villa Cora Machiavelli, 18 055 228790 – villacora.it viale
Borgo San Jacopo San Jacopo, 62r 055 281661 – lungarnocollection.com borgo
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Signoria, 10 055 0621744 – gucciosteria.com piazza della
La Leggenda dei Frati a Villa
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push to choose their ribollita and francesina (the typical "reboiled meat" that recovered the leftover of boiled food by stewing it with tomatoes and onions), later the tripe (in Florence is made with tomato too). The longest queue forms at Nerbone, on track since 1872, where the main dish is lampredotto in its classic and seasonal variations, but there are other specialties such as slow cooked muscle or turkey ossobuco. MERCATO CENTRALE, MODERN FORMAT ON THE SECOND FLOOR From 2014 the upper floor is occupied by the Central Market format, also present in Rome, Milan, Turin. Compared to the ground floor the approach and the atmosphere change, the visual impact is modern, the concept resembles a square where the artisans guarantee for the
FLORENCE THROUGH ITS MARKETS
products while "the products guarantee for quality", as the official page says. This is how the Market becomes "guarantor of all those values that are part of eating according to us", and we talk about attention to the customer, to the territory, to the environment, care for craftsmanship, experience, tradition, information on products from origin to processing. The audience is more dynamic, young, international, here you can taste David Bedu’s bread, Ciccio Vitiello’s pizza, Raffaele D'Errico’s pizza, or the famous Trapizzino created by Stefano Callegari: a triangle of soft dough open like a pocket filled with the classics of Roman and Italian cuisine, from oxtail to eggplant parmigiana. There is the Johnny Paranza fryery, originally a kiosk near Livorno; there are "the threshing floor and the garden" products of Martina and Gabrio,
who began with a three-wheel Piaggio delivery scooter set up as a food-truck. There is no shortage of specialties from Sicily and Basilicata alongside the sushi of Mitsubiki Toshifumi, Tuscan from the 90s, and the handmade ravioli of Xiaofei Hu, Chinese tradition with ingredients of the Italian supply chain. But let’s go back to talking about Florence for the boiled meats, the peposo, pappa al pomodoro by Giacomo Trapani, from a family of tripe sellers of San Frediano (true district in Oltrarno), and the taste is confirmed in the lampredotto by Lorenzo Nigro, recipe handed down by his grandparents. In the corner of the meat «strong and tender, but above all Italian, good, healthy», dominate the cuts of Fausto Savigni, grilled and enjoyed on the spot, flanked by the burgers of Chianina della Toraia (variants with
4. A glimpse of the historic ground floor of the Mercato Centrale in Florence 5. The Nerbone stall, always on the ground floor of the Mercato Centrale, with the ancient cast iron structure dating back to the late 1800s 6 and 7. The upper floor: the modern Mercato Centrale format (also in the opening photo of the story)
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STORIES
Bardini costa San Giorgio, 6a 055 0680545 – laleggendadeifrati.it
Ora d'Aria Georgofili, 11r - 055 2001699 oradariaristorante.com via dei
Santa Elisabetta Brunelleschi piazza Sant'Elisabetta, 3 – 055 2737673 ristorantesantaelisabetta.it dell'Hotel
Winter Garden dell'Hotel St. Regis Ognissanti, 1 – 055 27163770 marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ flrxr-the-st-regis-florence/dining/ piazza
Il Borro Tuscan Bistro Acciaiuoli, 80r 055 290423 – ilborrotuscanbistro.it lungArno degli
Ventuno Bistrot Vespucci, 21 331 7873568 – ventunobistrot.it via de'
Gurdulù Caldaie, 12r 055 282223 – gurdulu.com via delle
Il Magazzino Passera, 2 – 055 215969 @Osteria-Tripperia-Il-magazzino piazza della
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LIVE SWORDFISH «Today we go to see the swordfish», said the grandmother, with a look of deep satisfaction. Everyone knew that I wanted to meet a swordfish. But my grandmother did not take me to the sea. We arrived at a big market that, I believe, was the Mercato Centrale. I reminded her that I wanted to see a live swordfish. «Of course, alive», she answered without batting an eye. At the fishmonger there was this sign: «Live swordfish». Maybe Grandma made him put it up, she was capable of anything. There was not a swordfish in sight. Anyway, until then I’d only seen small neighbourhood shops, and that world full of food impressed me like it was another country. Years later, at the Sant'Ambrogio market, I ate in a trattoria with glass walls and I thought I was in an aquarium. But not even there did I see a live swordfish: space was not enough for its spacious swimming moves. More time passed and at the market in Seattle I saw big fish fly. I actually walked right under it. The fishermen went by like this, screaming and casting nets yards away. It wasn’t the live swordfish yet. But I’m getting closer. – Enzo Fileno Carabba, writer
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truffle or pecorino cheese) and the restaurant Tosca, excellent synthesis of regional cuisine. We have not mentioned them all, there are truffles and there are vegan meals, there's beer, wine, there is gelato, there is the pleasure of browsing in a new dimension of the market. That also becomes an opportunity for a Florentine evening that's a little different, possibly in good company. TOWARDS SANT’AMBROGIO At this point we can leave behind the neighbourhood (where would not be missed, to tell the truth, excellent trattorias), and maybe from the bottlenecks of Borgo San Lorenzo give the magical opening on the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, with the Baptistery and Giotto's bell tower. Take the time you need, and then choose what beau-
FLORENCE THROUGH ITS MARKETS
ADDRESSES TAKEN FROM RISTORANTI D’ITALIA 2022 BY GAMBERO ROSSO
Santa Elisabetta dell'Hotel Brunelleschi
Teatro del Maggio
Firenze Campo di Marte
Firenze SMN Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
Winter Garden dell'Hotel St. Regis Enoteca Bruni
Enoteca Pinchiorri
Santa Maria del Fiore Palazzo Strozzi
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio Il Borro Tuscan Bistro Santa Croce
Cappella Brancacci
Dim Sum Restaurant
Ponte Vecchio
Il Magazzino Palazzo Pitti
Ora d’Aria
Villa Bardini Gurdulù
Piazzale Michelangelo La Leggenda dei Frati a Villa Bardini
Giardino di Boboli
San Miniato al Monte
Borgo San Jacopo
Le Bistrot dell'Hotel Villa Cora 500 m
Da Burde Ventuno Bistrot Palazzo di Giustizia
Ponte all’Indiano Parco delle Cascine Fortezza da Basso
Teatro del Maggio
Firenze SMN Santa Maria del Fiore
1km
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Firenze Campo di Marte
STORIES
MORE MARKETS, MORE FARMERS Extra local fruit and vegetables, olive oil, wine, meats and cheeses, honey but sometimes also fish, dry and fresh pasta, flowers: colour and substance, sustainability, the reconquest of time and space, the pleasure of living neighbourhood life. In the area of Piazza della Libertà, well served by public transport and a convenient car park, the Friday morning appointment with the farmer’s market of Parterre is a consolidated habit, «and it is a pleasure to find regular customers who come to visit us» as Antonella del Podere San Pierino says, «even older people, who live alone, for whom we prepare already weighed portions.» The bustle is continuous, the atmosphere relaxed and very far from that of the supermarket. «We have a strong presence in the neighbourhood», says Guido of the farm Il Ruscello, based in Chianni, near Pisa, where they raise their Cinta Senese pigs, «but there is no shortage of customers from other areas.» And even more lively is the Saturday morning market in Piazza Alberti, «with a very dynamic public, inclined to spending well for quality.» Cecilia Piacenti, head of the association Spesa in Campagna (which on behalf of CIA organises these markets), emphasises on the added value: «Direct sales, in addition to cutting some steps of the supply chain and encouraging conviviality, contribute to safeguarding the territory. Thanks to this formula, small companies can continue to survive, and therefore care after their daily work.» And if in Florence the farmers' markets are on the rise, and more frequented, we can only rejoice.
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ties to reach the surroundings of Santa Croce, without sparing the beautiful nineteenth century cafes and the wide shopping streets, the lustre of the iconic monument as the surprise around the corner. Because Florence has all such beauty, that a lifetime is not enough to discover it all but already a walk can give so much wonder that seems enough, in fact, for a lifetime. And then away, continuing, more or less in the direction of Piazza Beccaria. Thinking about the possible artistic and gastronomic stages that can mark the passage up to Sant'Ambrogio, you cannot overlook the character of this neighbourhood, evident at first sight. Especially for foreigners, Sant'Ambrogio will appear real, Florentine, vibrant, still associated with certain scenes from the Vasco Pratolini novels, and still far from the patina of the most touristy
FLORENCE THROUGH ITS MARKETS
areas. Already the corner that divides the church from the market tells the different souls of the food-forward Florence, after a few steps we find Tripperia Pollini (crowded with workers on their lunch break) and Neapolitan specialties at Pizzaiuolo, then all the inventions of the late Fabio Picchi, from Cibrèo to Ciblèo, from coffee to the Teatro del Sale. Turning in Piazza Ghiberti we are waiting for the sandwiches of Semel, small original shop where Marco stuffs bread with donkey stew, serves ravioli with wild boar sauce or cacciucco with vegetables, and later we sit for the dishes of L'Ortone, from fried tongue with caramelised onion to homemade pasta, maybe with hare sauce. Meanwhile, the stalls of the produce sellers surround the exteriors of the market of Sant'Ambrogio, the oldest of the city. Wandering among the sea-
son's first fruits, the explosion of colours and some international proposals, you begin to hear shouts of politics and football (the mood is much better if the Florentine soccer team wins the latest match), with the Florentine vernacular that breaks in and entertains. Before entering his kingdom, a quick quote for the neighbouring Piazza Annigoni, where the traditional Flea Market has been moved: twenty-six stands/antique shops that beg to be visited. THE FLAVOUR OF FLORENCE Those looking for authenticity will not be disappointed by the ancient Sant'Ambrogio Market, declined in a qualitative proposal of level but still the preserve of the neighbourhood and the Florentines, therefore of the typical food, as is typical of the traders who animate it. Greetings, chit chat, the re-
lationship based on loyalty and trust between shopper and customer: no comparisons with other places of sale. Francesco Contieri, in his butcher shop Lanini, prepares stuffed chicken neck and duck with chestnuts, plums, apples, pistachios, while his loyal collaborator Alessio tells us that here «you find the real Florence, the morning before opening is already a frenzy among us operators: woe to be touchy, we like to pull pranks and jokes!» Next to them is the butcher shop of Luca Menoni, founded in 1921 but always open to novelty: «We live by knowledge,» says the owner, «both of the product and the customer, whom we know how to give tailored advice to.» On the rooftop there's the Ristomacelleria, where you can taste what «the cook prepares after the butcher has selected» first of all an excellent tartare. A little later we met 9
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LE STORIE
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Fabio Gallerini with his very long and sparkling fish counter, started in 1959: «Every morning I wake up at 3 to attend the auctions in Livorno,» he says, «because here freshness is counted on the hours. The target is high, you look for quality before price.» Between the deli and the cheese shop eyes are filled by the selection of cured meats, goat cheeses and pecorinos, to be paired with the ancient grains bread loaves of Montespertoli, and instead the only trattoria on the market belongs to Rocco, «arrived by train from Basilicata when he was 14 years old» as his son Palo recalls, working by his side. «The clientele is mostly Florentine, from workers to students,» on the table are pasta and ribollita, meatballs and stew «with a nice bottle of wine at the centre.» The added value, everyone remembers it, is the ambiance: «Even if you’re in a bad mood, you always find the character that makes
you change your mood.» Among many long-time vendors we find some who have more recently started here, for example Marco who was a baker and now cooks lampredotto: «The market is a particular world, where everyone gets along and nobody gets along» and he laughs, bringing out the naked character of the Florentine. Or Giuliana, more than a decade at the stove of a Chianti tavern and now owner of the only "civaiolo" in Sant'Ambrogio, renamed Il Cernacchino: spices, rice, legumes in bulk and selected, from zolfini beans from Pratomagno to lentils from Castelluccio. Those who have been here for a long time are complaining a little about the economy,» he says, «it seems to me instead that the market is a happy haven.» And we too, at least for today, like to think so, if only for the story of a Florence that's very difficult to trace elsewhere.
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8. A farmer’s stall at the CIA market in Piazza della Libertà 9. Sant'Ambrogio Market: the Lanini Butcher’s Counter since 1980 and, behind, the RistoMacelleria Terrazza Menoni 10. Sant'Ambrogio Market: Cernacchino selling loose "civaie" (seeds and grains, in Florentine and Valdarno dialect)
MINIGUIDA
Monache Monache cistercensi cistercensi Santo Santo Spirito Spirito
Via Via Matteotti Matteotti Chiesa Chiesa di Santa di Santa Maria Maria dei dei Greci Greci
17 17 8 8
Via Via delle delle Mura Mura
2 2 7 7
Chiesa Chiesa del del Purgatorio Purgatorio Via Via Argento Argento
4 4 Via Via Atenea Atenea
3 3
Via Via Imrea Imrea
6 6
Via Via Cicerone Cicerone
5 5 9 9
15 15 22 22
11 11
Via Via Empedocle Empedocle
23 23 Via Via delle delle Torri Torri Via Via Acrone Acrone Via Via Roma Roma
1 1 Via Via Acrone Acrone
Area Area della della necropoli necropoli Pezzino Pezzino
Via Via Manzoni Manzoni
Via Via Esseneto Esseneto
Viadotto Viadotto Akragas Akragas II II Via Via Manzoni Manzoni
Contrada Contrada SanSan Leonardo Leonardo Viadotto Viadotto Akragas Akragas II II
Via Via Petrarca Petrarca
100100 m m
150 kilometres of white beaches, dunes and coves that embrace the province of Luigi Pirandello's homeland. The ancient Akragas, aka Kerkent, aka Girgenti, is a city that rises in spring, as well as the heart of the Valley of the Temples, and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The local cuisine is a colourful mix of Greek, Arab, French influences, and counts on an extraordinary territory, between sea, hill and countryside, on a thousandyear-old wisdom and authorial interpretations of the deepest Sicily
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AGRIGENTO
1 2
16 19 Valle dei Templi
Via Ragazzi del ‘99
12
Via Ragazzi del ‘99
Tempio della Concordia
B
24
Porto Empedocle
Villaggio Mosè
14 10
San Leone Via Minerva
13
18
1 km
2
26 A
Caltabellotta
Lucca Sicula
20 Cattolica Eraclea Sciacca
25
Viale della Vittoria
San Giorgio
Seccagrande Via La Malfa
1
Eraclea Minoa
Via Crispi
C
21 1 km
One, None and a Hundred Thousand Agrigentos by Valentina Marino
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MINIGUIDA
WHERE TO EAT
1 Aguglia Persa via F. Crispi, 34 0922 401337 agugliapersa.it The Sicily of Enzo Restaurant. In a villa of the 1700s that was once the residence of Luigi Pirandello, surrounded by a lush garden, you will find the refined cuisine of Enzo Ravanà, born in 1976. His interpretations of the classics, according to season, are delicious and do not disappoint. Think sardines "a beccafico" in a kataifi crust with petals of onion (of the paglina variety) marinated in two vinegars and candied orange; or the spaghetti with fish soup extract and mussels with cherry tomatoes. The pulled pork knuckle on the bbq with potatoes and its jus is equally enthralling. Nice environment, refreshed after the winter break. Proper wines.
2 Le Boccerie via Atenea, 231 0922 627662 392 5797613 leboccerie.it Eclectic proposal and guaranteed fun Bistrot. Mezze Maniche with octopus amatriciana, fried squid and vegetables, panelle, but also pizza Neapolitan style, classic or special, as well as homemade jams for breakfast and platters of meats and cheeses for a snack at any time of day. At the helm of this multifaceted pit stop that adapts to every desire there is
Il The gastronomic mosaic Of the Agrigento table: 5 must-taste specialities
a close-knit staff - in the kitchen and in the dining room that points in every aspect to the enhancement of the island and its best products. Plus good drinks.
1
Cubbaita: Cubbaita: from Arabic "qubbiat," for almond, is a sweet of ancient origins and Saracen derivation characteristic of the Christmas period but available throughout the year. Each family has its own variations (with other nuts or sesame), but the base consists of toasted almonds mixed with sugar and warm honey. The mixture is spread on a greasy surface, cut into strips and cooled until chewy.
3 Ciaula p.zza San Francesco, 7 0922 836093 @ciauladrink Neither fish nor flesh, but much more Sandwich eatery. Local young and easy-going with a few years of life and already a large group of aficionados in tow. The proposal focuses mainly on burgers, land and sea, topped with generosity and attention to ingredient quality. There is also room for diehard sweet lovers, see the variant with a fried bun stuffed with meat, fried egg, bacon, and classic sauces. To open the meal or as a side there's fried snacks and similar delights. Valid drinks and outdoor seating.
2 Cuddiruni: Cuddiruni: preparation spread throughout the province but originating in Realmonte, is a stuffed pizza with different fillings. Some recipes include tomato, onion and anchovies, others have potatoes and seasonal vegetables. In the past it was cooked in a wood-burning oven.
3 Maccu di Raffadali: is a cream of dried fava beans and
4 Civicododici Osteria
chard of peasant tradition linked to the feast of Our Lady of the Rosary, which takes place in October. Included among the traditional Italian food products, PAT, is often flavoured with wild fennel.
via Vullo, 12 0922 26983 349 3442343 @civicododiciosteria Informal but with certain substance Trattoria. A modern osteria with charming summer outdoor dining area on the staircase in front of the bell tower, ideal for those who want to enjoy a meal in the name of typical dishes prepared and served with a certain care, plus made with fresh products, fish in particular. Think pasta alla
GAMBERO ROSSO
4 Minestra ‘i sicci: typical summer recipe of Siculiana, where between July and September a large amount of cuttlefish is caught, which for this recipe are seared and cooked together with peas, sometimes reduced to a puree. Enriched with broken spaghetti, it is a hearty and fragrant complete meal dish.
5 Taganu di Aragona: Taganu di Aragona: literally "pan", is a hearty mess of the Easter period formerly cooked in clay containers, which were broken at the end. It is made with pasta generously seasoned with sauce, eggs, caciocavallo, parmigiano, tuma, and then baked in the oven until well browned., parmigiano, tuma, and then baked in the oven until well browned.
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Dreams are DESIRES
Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour Worldtour
CALENDAR 2022/2023 CALENDAR CALENDAR CALENDAR 2022/2023 2022/2023 2022/2023 22 00 22220222022 MARCH MARCH MARCH MARCH 24 24 LONDON - 24 U.K. LONDON 24 LONDON - U.K. LONDON - U.K. - U.K.
JUNE JUNE JUNE JUNE trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022
28 28 ZURICH - Switzerland Vini d'Italia Experience ZURICH 28 ZURICH -28 Switzerland ZURICH - Switzerland - Switzerland
Vini d'Italia ViniExperience d'Italia Vini Experience d'Italia Experience
01 01 SINGAPORE SINGAPORE 01 SINGAPORE 01 SINGAPORE
Italian Wines Roadshow 14 03 03 HOHO CHI MINH - MINH Vietnam Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 03CHI HO MINH 03 CHI HO -CHI Vietnam MINH - Vietnam - Top Vietnam Vini d'Italia Experience 15 15 WASHINGTON DCDC - USA d'Italia ViniExperience d'Italia Vini Experience d'Italia Experience WASHINGTON 15 WASHINGTON 15 WASHINGTON - USA DC - USA DCVini - USA
17 17 SEATTLE - USA SEATTLE 17 SEATTLE 17 - USA SEATTLE - USA - USA
APRIL APRIL APRIL APRIL
Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14
Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia ViniExperience d'Italia Vini Experience d'Italia Experience
trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 21 21 MONTREAL - Canada trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION MONTREAL 21 MONTREAL 21 MONTREAL - Canada - Canada - Canada
trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 23 23 TORONTO - Canada trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION TORONTO 23 TORONTO 23 -TORONTO Canada - Canada - Canada trebicchieri 2022 10-13 VERONA - Vinitaly trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022 10-13 10-13 VERONA VERONA 10-13 - Vinitaly VERONA - Vinitaly - Vinitaly Italian Wines Roadshow 14 21 21 HOUSTON - USA Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines ItalianRoadshow Wines 14 Roadshow 14 14 HOUSTON 21 HOUSTON 21 -HOUSTON USA- USA - USATopTop
26 26 MEXICO CITY Mexico Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 MEXICO 26 MEXICO CITY 26 -MEXICO -CITY Mexico -CITY Mexico - Mexico Top Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14
OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER OCTOBER
MAY MAY MAY MAY
15-16 ROME - ROME Italy 2023 premiere 15-16 15-16 ROME 15-16 - Italy ROME - Italy - Italy trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 premiere trebicchieri 2023 premiere 2023 premiere trebicchieri 2023 25 25 TOKYO Japan trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023 TOKYO 25 TOKYO - 25 Japan TOKYO - Japan - Japan
trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 02 02 COPENHAGEN - Denmark trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION COPENHAGEN 02 COPENHAGEN 02 COPENHAGEN - Denmark - Denmark - Denmark SEOUL -SEOUL Korea SEOUL - Korea SEOUL - Korea- Korea trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 04 04 STOCKHOLM Sweden trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION STOCKHOLM 04 STOCKHOLM 04 STOCKHOLM - Sweden - Sweden - Sweden SUMMER EDITION 06 06 OSLO Norway trebicchieri trebicchieri SUMMER trebicchieri SUMMER EDITIONSUMMER EDITION EDITION OSLO 06- OSLO - Norway 06 OSLO - Norway - Norway trebicchieri
12 12 MUNICH - Germany trebicchieri 2022 MUNICH 12 MUNICH 12 - Germany MUNICH - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022 14 14 DUSSELDORF Germany trebicchieri 2022 DUSSELDORF 14 DUSSELDORF 14 -DUSSELDORF - Germany - Germany - Germany trebicchieri trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 2022
Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian TopWines ItalianTop Roadshow Wines ItalianRoadshow Wines Roadshow
NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER NOVEMBER
20-27 MEDITERRANEAN WINE SEA CLASSIC CRUISE 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN WINE SEA WORLD CRUISE 20-27 20-27 MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN 20-27 MEDITERRANEAN WINE WINE SEA CLASSIC WINE SEA CLASSIC SEA CRUISE CLASSIC CRUISE CRUISE 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN 13-20 USA/CARIBBEAN WINE WINE SEA WORLD SEA WINE WORLD SEA CRUISE WORLD CRUISECRUISE Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 23 23 SYDNEY Australia Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 SYDNEY 23 SYDNEY -23Australia SYDNEY - Australia - Australia 221422 SAO PAULO Brazil Top Italian Wines Roadshow SAO 22PAULO SAO22PAULO SAO - Brazil PAULO - Brazil- Brazil Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 25 25 MELBOURNE Australia Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 MELBOURNE 25 MELBOURNE 25 -MELBOURNE - Australia - Australia - Australia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 29 29 AUCKLAND - New Zealand Top Italian TopWines ItalianRoadshow Top Wines Italian Roadshow 14 Wines Roadshow 14 14 AUCKLAND 29 AUCKLAND 29 AUCKLAND - New - Zealand New-Zealand New Zealand
22 00 22 3230223023 DATES TO DATES DATES DATES TOSHOW TO SHOW SHOW TOUP SHOW UP UP UP
FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 23 23 LONDON - 23 U.K. LONDON 23 LONDON - U.K. LONDON - U.K. - U.K.
trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023
MARCH MARCH MARCH MARCH
trebicchieri HONG KONG -HONG China trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri HONG HONG KONG KONG - China KONG - China - China trebicchieri BEIJING China trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri BEIJING BEIJING - China BEIJING - China - China trebicchieri SHANGHAI - China trebicchieri trebicchieri SHANGHAI SHANGHAI SHANGHAI - China - China - China trebicchieri
01 01 LOS ANGELES - USA trebicchieri 2023 LOS 01ANGELES LOS01ANGELES LOS - USA ANGELES - USA - USA
trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023
03 03 SAN FRANCISCO - USA SAN 03FRANCISCO SAN03FRANCISCO SAN FRANCISCO - USA- USAtrebicchieri - trebicchieri USA 2023 trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023 08 08 CHICAGO -08 USA CHICAGO 08 CHICAGO - CHICAGO USA- USA - USAtrebicchieri 2023
trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023
10 10 NEW YORK - USA trebicchieri 2023 NEW 10 YORK NEW 10 YORK NEW - USAYORK - USA - USA
trebicchieri trebicchieri 2023 trebicchieri 2023 2023
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AGRIGENTO
Norma, destructured cannoli, variations around swordfish: the satisfaction at the table is assured. Helpful and friendly dining room staff. Good options from the wine cellar. In the warm season the restaurant is only open for dinner.
5 Cusà Fish via L. Pirandello, 46 0922 467539 333 4311029 @cusafishagrigento Morsels of the sea Street Food. Friselle with anchovies from Sciacca, swordfish caponata, fried snacks, bruschetta, sandwiches. But also poke with pink shrimp (cooked), sweet and sour onion, avocado, zucchini, tomato, soy and sesame seeds; or exotic brik: bundles of puff pastry stuffed with babaganoush. The menu, almost all seafood, of this small "laboratory" that serves only fresh and quality ingredients and plays with more contemporary ideas. For a quick and tasty meal, even delivered.
6 Dacànto via Atenea, 28 320 6858046 @ilLocaleAgrigento Playlist for connoisseurs Wine Bar. Hidden in an alley off the main avenue, steps away from the church of San Pietro, on a staircase that in summer houses the outdoor dining area. And it is worth finding it, because this place devoted to good drinking is an excellent opportunity for a relaxing aperitif in the company of glasses chosen with compe-
tence and artfully mixed cocktails. You certainly don’t drink on an empty stomach, thanks to stuffed focaccias, skewers and various treats. And the music selection also contributes to the atmosphere.
7 Màbel il ristorante da bere via Atenea, 223 351 2001870 328 26642 @MABEL-il-ristoranteda-bere Young Agrigento Restaurant. Nice new place opened in the summer of 2021, whose subtitle reads "restaurant to drink." Yes, because here, in addition to dinner, you can enjoy an aperitif in the well-tended room or in the few outdoor tables. The attention to wine is evident, while in the kitchen young
Riccardo Baldacchino brings a burst of creativity and exotic ideas. The results are more than promising: spaghetti with fennel cream, red shrimp, reef mullet and salmon roe with miso sauce and iceberg carrelage, two examples of a menu that's due to amaze.
ciova and muddica" or "maccu" broad bean puree with croutons worthy of this name, or warm octopus salad, meatballs with tomato sauce, caponata. Located in the centre, the place has the right bottles for what is served and the staff is prompt and courteous.
8 Osteria Ex Panificio
9 Siculò
piazzetta G. Sinatra, 16 0922 595399 osteriaexpanificio.it A dip into Sicily Trattoria. Exposed stone walls, wooden sideboards, simple but accurate table settings. Welcoming and characteristic, located in what was once a bakery, the Osteria is a proud spokesperson of tradition with good style variations, between spaghetti "c'an-
MY AGRIGENTO
via L. Pirandello, 21 0922 1881799 siculosicilian bistrot.com "Pieces" of rotisserie and joy Street Food. A well-stocked counter of local street specialties and orders without obligation, for snacks or lunches and real dinners in the name of arancine, panelle, mortadelline (slices of potatoes with peel, pistachio pesto and
ARCHAEOLOGY, LANDSCAPE, FOOD AND WINE: AN ALL-ENCOMPASSING EXPERIENCE IN THE HEART OF THE VALLEY OF THE TEMPLES Agrigento native and cook for pleasure, I tried everything in the city, and many of my memories are related to the Via Atenea, the city's central artery. But in some places I keep coming back: Terracotta, Sal8 (via Cesare Battisti 8), Ruga Reali in the courtyard Scribani 8 (for fish)while at the Osteria del Cacciatore in contrada Torre in Castrofilippo I go for a roll of spinach as good as thirty years ago and for the pork shank with potatoes that I will also order tonight. For the wines, the reference is Nzolia: her exposed cellar is so beautiful that I reproduced it in small in my house. Or OceanoMare, in Viale sulle Dune in San Leone, a well-known kiosk where you can drink and eat well. Too bad that some dishes can not be found anymore - and it’s up to do them at home - such as "u bruciuluni", a rolled stuffed meat cooked in sauce, or "u pitaggiu", made with peas, artichokes and broad beans. On the other hand, food is culture, and with the Diodoros project, born in 2005, we have revived the lands expropriated for protection from public administration recovering the landscape through synergy with local producers. The brand today enhances our incredible biodiversity, with oil, wine, juices, jams, creams, and honey, produced with a view to restocking the honey bee Sicula in collaboration with a social cooperative. But above all it tells 2600 years of history, shortly - as we write, ndr - in a new headquarters, Casa Barbadoro, a rural building under the hill, for tastings open to all realities in tune with our philosophy. But the initiatives involve the whole province, and in the pipeline there are many, one of all the rediscovery of breakfast based on typical products. – Roberto Sciarratta, Director of Parco Archeologico e Paesaggistico Valle dei Templi
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MINIGUIDA
MY AGRIGENTO VICES AND VIRTUES OF THE CITY OF THE TEMPLES I was born in Favara but I have lived here for 35 years, and in the promotion and enhancement of this city and the territory I have always put my face, soul and heart. But Agrigento is a small town with about forty restaurants in all: if tourism fills them in the summer, when winter arrives it is up to sharing the few dozen local customers. And then there is not so much choice as I understand it, that as a customer I am demanding and I hate being tricked: if you tell me that you give me a good olive oil, you have to give me a good olive oil, and here we have many. What is missing is a shared vision, there is a lot of improvisation and little desire to grow and teamwork. But we have many fine restaurateurs, even in the province, Pino Cuttaia, who last year brought popularity with uovodiseppia mare, in primis. On the wine and spirits front, Inzolia is the largest and most stocked of the capital, while for the mixology I go to Dàcanto, which opened three months before the pandemic. At lunch or dinner, my choices are few but good: Hostaria del Vicolo in Sciacca (vicolo Sammaritano 10), where I find myself in tune with the work of Nino Bentivegna, the Osteria del Cacciatore in Castrofilippo when I want a home cooking and country, or the trattoria Caico here in San Leone, in via Nettuno 35, for fish. Even the well-made homemade gelato is now difficult to find in the city: the wisdom of those who work like in the past is still enclosed in the small hidden villages of the hinterland. – Fabio Gulotta, chef of Terracotta
donkey mortadella di Chiaramonte Gulfi) but also grazien boards (the richest is called "vastasu"), burgers, buns, salads served in pita bread pockets. Everything from Sicilian ingredients, meats and cheeses to honey used in sweet and sour condiments, up to the flours used for the focaccia.
10 Sitàri - Sorce family loc. Villaggio Mosè viale L. Sciascia, 286 0922 629921 sitari.it All part of the grain Pizzeria. It precisely means "wheat" this place owned and managed by brothers Giorgio, Filippo and Alberto Sorce, a close-knit team and great researchers of flour and ingredients for the pizza toppings. The taste confirms this: digestible crusts and toppings, as in the case
of the Parmigiana pizza (tomato sauce Gusta Rosso 100%, fiordilatte, fried eggplant, Grana Padano 20 months, extra virgin olive oil and basil), or the Sinfonia pizza (fiordilatte, yellow and red semi dry datterini tomatoes cooked at low temperature, potato chips with truffles, pesto powder with basil, extra virgin).
Slow Food Presidia - and sustainable approach are the base of a much larger cultural project, started with the revival of the 18th-century church of San Pietro and the annexed rectory, today also hosting art and music events and a café-wine bar.
12 La Terrazza degli Dei dell'Hotel Villa Athena
11 Terracotta
via Passeggiata Archeologica, 33 0922 596288 hotelvillaathena.it Unforgettable experience Restaurant. An ancient villa with spectacular views, in the heart of the Valley of the Temples, luxury resort and home to the seasonal restaurant led by the talented Valentino Palmisano. His proposal has a Mediterranean soul and full and refined flavours at the same
via L. Pirandello, 1 0922 29742 spaziotemenos.it Forward-looking tradition Restaurant. Crispy artichoke, caciocavallo mousse and salty crumble, Tenerumi soup, San Pietro in sparaceddu sauce and late harvest mandarin orange caviar. Here is the menu of a modern osteria where short supply chain - with many
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time, like those of a perfect spaghetti with tomato or Sicilian specialties revisited with flair and a sure hand. The service is up to the level of the structure, as well as the wine list, rich with Italian and foreign labels.
13 uovodiseppia mare fraz. San Leone lungomare Falcone Borsellino 0922 1554130 uovodiseppiamare.it Authorial and beach cuisine Restaurant. Pino Cuttaia, one of the most famous and appreciated interpreters of the island's cuisine stationed at the Licata Cupboard, last year landed here with a lido-restaurant-bistro-cocktail bar designed for sustainability to relax pieds dans l'eau all year round. And to enjoy the day's catch prepared with a light hand and a touch of masterfulness (for example the warm carpaccio of sea and artichokes), without excluding some variations of meat. Cellar with organic goodies and lots of territory, proper cocktails and casual and on point service.
WHERE TO SHOP
14 Caffè Agorà loc. Villaggio Mosè viale L. Sciascia, 27 0922 608190 pasticceria-agora.it Coffee & Bar. A few steps from the Valley of the Temples, a lovely place open from breakfast to aperitivo
AGRIGENTO
hour. From breakfast pastries with a good espresso in the morning, to the typical sweet gastronomy - mention for cannoli - and salty throughout the day, passing through an à la carte menu at lunch until an aperitif full of classic and creative cocktails and tasty treats to cheer up the break. Veranda with a view and other branch at Lido di San Leone, in piazzale Giglia 1 (0922 080176).
15 Antichi Sapori via C. Battisti, 20 0922 554585 0922 554467 antichisapori agrigento.it Delicatessen. "Salumeria & Bio", says the sign. And more. Open from morning until 9 pm (later on weekends) is a reference for shopping and snacks in the name of Sicilian excellence, and beyond. Vastedda del Belice, caciotta delle Madonie, cotto dei Nebrodi are the protagonists at the counter and on the cutting boards along with pickled veggies, bruschetta and fine selections from all over Italy, ideal for lunch or aperitif (also outdoors). Plus genuine expressly crafted sandwiches, products for the intolerant and curated gift packages.
16 Birrificio dei Templi contrada Zunica c/o Agriturismo Passo dei Briganti 328 6257587 birrificiodeitempli.it Brewery. Sicilian ales, reds and
dark and Cannabier, produced and bottled on site and distributed in different points in the area, while the headquarters is located here. A young project aimed at promoting the brewing culture, with a still limited assortment - that's however growing - enhancing local resources, carried out with passion by Gianni Di Battista. Also interesting evenings and special tastings, one of the last of 2021 paired beer with pizza with great dough and selected ingredients made in Passo dei Briganti.
melo, are the owners of a well-stocked and proven resale - wholesale and retail - of wines, liqueurs, typical products, design objects, perfect stop for lovers of the genre and to buy quality souvenirs. On the wine front, the proposal ranges from big names to lesser known companies, carefully selected by the owner who shares advice with his customers. Desserts, olive oils, preserves, sauces, fine jams and a rich assortment of spirits complete the offer. Online shop available.
17 Concordia
19 Corona
p.zza L. Pirandello, 36 0922 25894 @Caffe-ConcordiaSaito Pastry shop. Local institution in a privileged position, guardian for over seventy years of the oldest tradition of local pastry art. In addition to cassata and cannoli stuffed with fresh ricotta from the farms of Santo Stefano Quisquina (famous for its cheese and dairy products), the specialty of the house is also the delicious ricottamisù. Plus brioche, granits, homemade gelato, pistachio pastries (by Raffadali), cookies with almonds, breakfast pastries. Outdoor seating in the beautiful square.
via Demetra, 4 0922 401989 enotecacorona.com Enoteca. Another point of reference for connoisseurs, thanks to decades of experience and a philosophy based on the search for the best and also the lesser known. The restaurant got a makeover in 2019, and today, in a modern setting, hosts an assortment of events with a focus on Sicily and excursions in Italy and around the world, along with spirits and sweet treats. Tips for food pairings, the winery of the week and the efficient online store with different promotions complete the picture.
18 Bottiglieria Condorelli
20 Francesco Di Mino
loc. Villaggio Mosè viale Cannatello, 19 0922 606004 bottiglieria condorelli.it Enoteca. Initially Bartolo, the founder, today his son Car-
GAMBERO ROSSO
viale della Vittoria, 145 338 1995083 oliodimino.it Olive oil producer. In contrada Scintilia, a few kilometres
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from the city centre, Francesco Di Mino, benefitting from a solid family tradition in the sector, organically cultivates its 13 hectares of olive groves (out of 15 total) which host about 4,000 plants of the traditional cultivars of this territory. There are three labels produced, all with levels of excellence: a monocultivar Nocellara del Belice IGP Sicilia, a monocultivar Biancolilla and a monocultivar Coratina. The olive oil can be purchased at the farm's salespoint.
21 Mercato di Campagna Amica piazzale U. La Malfa 0922 26872 campagnamica.it Market. Last year Coldiretti celebrated the seventieth year of activity here in Sicily. Today, as in the past, the network of small local producers continues to promote and offer the public the artisan work of farmers, cheesemakers, livestock breeders. In the city the agrimercato opens every Saturday at 7.30 am to 1.30 pm in a large private area in the west side of town. As always here you will find on display fruit and vegetables, spices and aromatic herbs, meats and salumi, preserves and bottled goods, for a genuine and sustainable grocery haul.
22 'Nzolia piazzetta San Calogero, 11 0922 054447
MINIGUIDA
Sea view or feet in the sand, 3 stops in the province
nzolia.it Enoteca. Central location for this comfortable address where to indulge in a selection of wine bottles for all tastes and needs. The assortment on the shelf includes Sicilian labels but also Italian and international references - many French - as well as high-quality spirits alongside food specialties. Rich platters, pickled vegetables and cold and hot dishes accompany the pleasant aperitivo moment. Summer terrace.
A Salisà Menfi – loc. Lido Fiore – piazza degli Oleandri 333 3640360 – salisamenfi.it Restaurant. Lido with tables on the beach, where the view gives its best at sunset. But also go for a cool lunch between swims: raw fish, fried fish, classic condiments for pasta, grilled seafood, informal but very good.
B MariTerra Porto Empedocle – via F. Crispi 392 5498595 - @ristomariterra Restaurant. Not on the sand but in a veranda with a view, in the heart of the port, where in winter the atmosphere is even more evocative. On the table comes the cuisine that you expect, between tradition and some concession to inspiration. Welcoming family management at the helm..
23 Pastificio Sant'Anna via Dante, 23 0922 596165 @Pastificio-SantAnna Homemade pasta. "Cuoretti" with carrots, chilli, ginger, walnuts and ricotta in a lemon dough, "violette" with zucchini pesto, basil and almonds, and more classic stuffed pasta. Colourful and well-assorted, the counter of this artisan shop where the dough is hand-rolled does not lack choice and colour. Busiate, spaghetti, cavatelli, tagliatelle, pappardelle, gnocchi, paccheri with cuttlefish ink and much more according to period and inspiration, also with wholemeal flours.
C La Scogliera Osteria del Mare Siculiana Marina – via San Pietro, 54 0922 817532 - @lascoglierasiculiana Restaurant. The seafront location puts you in the best condition to appreciate the cuisine of chef Gambuzza - as the aficionados call him - he knows the catch and treats it with a light and respectful hand. You can't go wrong with the classics, raw seafood and pasta with sea urchin above all others.
WHERE TO STAY
24 Foresteria Baglio della Luna frazione San Leone via S. A. Guastella, 1c c.da Maddalusa 0922 511061 bagliodellaluna.com Hotel. Refined boutique hotel consisting of two buildings,
Special thanks to: Francesco Pensovecchio Map byAlessandro Naldi
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the guesthouse and a medieval watchtower with panoramic terrace, from which you can admire the whole Valley of the Temples. Rooms and suites equipped with all amenities and decorated with antique furniture, elegant common areas, refined restaurant, private beach. Ideal for a relaxing holiday immersed in a dream setting.
25 Hedoné Design Experience viale della Vittoria, 271b 351 9338308 bbhedone.it Bed and breakfast. A smart house composed of rooms and apartments furnished with taste and every kind of amenities. The structure and services are dedicated to sustainability, from breakfast - even served in the room - made with organic and local products, to the materials of the structure including energy saving. In a convenient area for city tours or excursions in the Valley of the Temples, the place ensures a classy stay for every need.
26 Krysos Luxury Rooms via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 18 379 1686763 krysosbb.com Bed and Breakfast. In a convenient central location, in the heart of the city, it houses two rooms and a designer mini-apartment equipped with all services (including colour shower) and also available for long stays. Lovely common area and breakfast room. Very friendly and helpful staff.
SIDDURA.COM/SHOP
VERMENTINO DI GALLURA DOCG SUPERIORE
RECIPES
SARA PRECERUTI BORN IN
AGE
CITTÀ DI RESIDENZA
Novara
38
Milano
RESTAURANT NAME
Acquada RESTAURANT CONTACTS:
Milan via E. Villoresi, 16 02 35945636 acquada.com
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE
OWNER PARTNER EMPLOYEE
La Locanda del Notaio ad Alta Valle Intelvi (CO)
SEATS
30 BELOVED INGREDIENT
HASHTAGS OF MY CUISINE
Isao Sonoda
Pigeon
AGE OF SOUS CHEF
LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT
48
Truffle (even though I use it in my kitchen)
Contrasts, colours, temperatures, bold, identity, provocative, fun, emotional, young, personal
SOUS CHEF
KITCHEN BRIGADE
Sara Preceruti Isao Sonoda IN THE DINING ROOM
Claudio Baggini SOMMELIER
Claudio Baggini
RESTAURANT OF THE HEART ABROAD
THE DISH OF A LIFETIME
One of my desserts, Il Gianduia veste Rosso MOST WORSHIPED MAESTRO
El Celler de Can Roca in Girona (Spain) ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS
Il Condrieu by E. Guigal
Carlo Cracco MOST RESPECTED SAME-AGE COLLEAGUE
Luca Sacchi (sous chef at Carlo Cracco) HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF...
Nothing... I can’t see myself in any other profession! DISHES PRESENTED TODAY: LATEST ALBUM DOWNLOADED
Teatro d'Ira by Måneskin LATEST BOOK READ
The Ice Princess by Camilla Läckberg
Tagliatelle with candied tomatoes, capers, tuna cubes and stracciata of fiordilatte on a spinach cream Pasta buttons stuffed with liver and mango, sour onion, lemon powder and beef consommé Risotto alla parmigiana, foie gras terrine, raspberries and crispy cacao sponge
by Clara Barra – photos by Loris Premoli
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RECIPES
Tagliatelle with candied tomatoes, capers, tuna cubes and stracciata of fiordilatte on a spinach cream INGREDIENTS FOR 4 For the fresh pasta 250 g “00” flour 250 g durum wheat semolina 4 whole eggs 3 yolks For the tomatoes 16 cherry tomatoes icing sugar salt For the spinach cream 250 g spinach extra virgin olive oil salt 250 g di fresh, clean tuna 40 g di salted capers 4 Tbsp. stracciata of fiordilatte
For the fresh pasta, Knead the ingredients and let stand for about 1 hour at room temperature. For the cherry tomatoes, blanch them in boiling water for 1 minute and cool them under running water. Peel and cut them in half, place them on a low baking sheet lined with parchment paper, sprinkle with icing sugar and a little salt, then bake in a pre-heated ventilated oven at 90ºC for about 2 hours. For the spinach cream, blanch the spinach in salted water for 1 minute, cool in ice water and drain well. Blend in a glass with an immersion blender using olive oil and a pinch of salt. Desalt the capers under running water and cut the tuna flesh into cubes. Roll the dough by hand with a rolling pin or with the help of a pasta machine 1 millimetre thin. Cut the dough to a length of about 20 cm. Create tagliatelle with the appropriate attachment or with the help of a knife and cook in salted boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain keeping the cooking water aside and sauté in a pan with the cherry tomatoes and capers. Mix the pasta well with olive oil and cooking water, then add the tuna cubes at the last moment. In each hot soup dish place some of the cream of spinach on the bottom, lay the tagliatelle on top and finish with 1 tablespoon of stracciata of fiordilatte. .
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SARA PRECERUTI - ACQUADA
Pasta buttons stuffed with liver and mango, sour onion, lemon powder and beef consommé ingredients for 4 For the pasta 350 g “00” flour 250 g eggs 150 g semolina 25 g extra virgin olive oil
For the consommé 300 g flank steak cut 150 g egg white 2 carrots 2 celery ribs 1 onion 1 tomato pepper parsley
For the filling 200 g beef liver 200 g ripe mango 2 shallots 4 g agar agar brandy, extra virgin olive oil, butter salt and pepper
For the sour onion 1 white onion 500 g water 30 g white wine vinegar 4 lemons salt
For the pasta: Knead the ingredients and let stand for about 1 hour. For the filling: lightly fry the chopped shallots, add the liver in small pieces, brown, sprinkle with brandy and flame. Remove from the stove and add a cube of butter. Let cool and puree. Clean the mango and blend it, bring the mango puree on the stove to 90°C and add the agar agar, stirring with a whisk. Put both compounds in 2 pastry bags. For the consommé: put the cleaned meat and vegetables in a pot with cold water and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Let cool and skim the surface to degrease. Finely chop the beef, add the egg white and chopped parsley. Add a ladle of cold water and mix carefully. Add the degreased broth and put the saucepan on medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. At full boil, lower the heat and simmer for 90 minutes skimming off the foam. At elapsed time, if necessary, degrease the broth again, then strain it. Pour it into a bowl and season with salt and black peppercorns. For the sour onion: Clean the white onion, quarter it, and then separate the sections. Place water in a pot, add vinegar and salt. Bring to a boil, soak the onion pieces for 1 minute and drain. Allow the cooking water to cool and then soak the onion pieces in it. For the lemon powder: dehydrate the peel at 60ºF, then blend to obtain a fine powder. Roll out the pasta dough 1 millimetre thin, place dots of the liver filling and cover with another layer of dough, cup with a round ravioli cutter (diameter 2 centimetres). Repeat the same procedure with the mango. For each person cook 3 minutes in salted boiling water 3 buttons stuffed with liver and 3 stuffed with mango. Drain, place them in a soup dish and decorate with 4 slices of onion, 3 cubes of sautéed liver, 4 cubes of fresh mango and lemon powder. At the table, pour over the boiling consommé.
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Risotto alla parmigiana, foie gras terrine, raspberries and crispy cacao sponge
ingredients for 4 For the terrine 400 g raw foie gras (fatty goose liver) 2 carrots 2 celery ribs 1 onion Salt and pepper
For the raspberry emulsion 1 punnet fresh raspberries 50 g seed oil 50 g extra virgin olive oil
For the cacao sponge 65 g egg whites 40 g egg yolks 10 g “00” flour 10 g sugar 10 g bitter cacao powder 5 g extra virgin olive oil salt
For the terrine, heat a pot of water with roughly cut vegetables to make a vegetable broth. Meanwhile, cut the foie gras into pieces, remove any veins, then marinate with salt and pepper and leave in the refrigerator for 4 hours. After this time, cook the liver in the broth at 82°C until it reaches 42°C at the core, drain and with the help of cling film create rolls, then refrigerate. For the raspberry emulsion, blend the raspberries in an immersion blender (saving 16 for decoration) adding the oil to obtain a frothy mixture. Pass through a sieve to remove the seeds and put in a pump. For the crispy cacao sponge, mix all the ingredients and blend with an immersion blender. Put the mixture in a sy-
GAMBERO ROSSO
For the broth 2 carrots 2 celery ribs 1 onion 1 piece of flank steak cut (aprox. 300 g) water
320 g Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo rice 40 g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated Extra virgin olive oil butter salt
phon with 2 charges. Syphon the contents in a container and cook in the microwave for about 1 minute at maximum power. Cut into small cubes and dry in the oven at 50ºC for as long as necessary. For the broth, in a pan put the vegetables, meat and water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat for about 2 hours. In a saucepan, toast the rice with a little oil and a knob of butter, slowly wet with the broth and cook for 11 minutes (the cooking time varies depending on the brand of rice). While cooking, fold in the salt little by little. Once ready, mix with butter, oil and Parmigiano: it must be wavy and creamy. Serve and decorate with 4 slices of terrine, 4 fresh raspberries, 4 pieces of sponge and drops of raspberry emulsion.
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APRILE 2022
SARA PRECERUTI - ACQUADA
Il Gianduia veste Rosso ingredients for 4 1 l pasteurised goat’s milk 400 g very fresh heavy cream 300 g caster sugar 100 g icing sugar 100 g gianduia chocolate 12 baby sweet peppers 4 sablé cookies 20 g gelato thickener
First prepare the gelato by mixing the milk, caster sugar and the thickener and then store them in the chilled basin of the gelato maker. Operate the machine and let it churn until the gelato is ready (at which point the gelato maker usually stops automatically). Meanwhile, in a hot non-stick frying pan roast the baby peppers, then transfer them in the oven to 180°C for about 5 minutes. After this time, place them in a plastic bag, seal and let them cool, so that the skin can come off easily. Peel and clean the peppers removing inner seeds but leaving them whole. Whip the very cold heavy cream with the icing sugar, chop the gianduia chocolate with a knife and gently incorporate it into the whipped cream. Transfer everything in a pastry bag and pipe each baby pepper with the obtained cream. Coarsely crush the cookies to obtain an even crumble. Plate by dropping the crumble on the bottom of the plate, then place 3 stuffed peppers per each portion, alternating with 2 scoops or quenelles of gelato.
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La storia di Vinchio Vaglio è la storia dei viticoltori di questi due Comuni del Monferrato e dell’amore per la loro terra. Una terra difficile, magra, le cui vigne ai margini dei boschi, scoscese e a strapiombo, sono state “educate” nei secoli, a prezzo di fatiche inenarrabili. I nostri 197 soci si fanno un punto di orgoglio del produrre le uve migliori perché siano destinate alle Barbera top.
The story of the Vinchio and Vaglio winery is a love story of the vine growers of these two villages from Monferrato for their land. A difficult and poor, inarable land, whose steep slopes and overhanging vineyards at the edge of the woods, have been tended and “tamed” over the centuries to dramatic effort. The pride of our 197 vine growers is to produce the best grapes for top Barbera.
vinchio.com
BURGUNDY PREVIEW
2019 AND 2020. BURGUNDY PREVIEW
by Massimo Lanza - photos by Sébastien Boulard/Grands Jours de Bourgogne
2. Vintage 2020: 2. Vintage 2020: Despite the heat, 2020 was considered by the Burgundian vignerons as an excellent year destined for long ageing. Water stress mainly affected the younger vineyards but didn’t affect acidity, so the whites are already in a good balance between acidity and fruit and of good aromatic complexity, while the reds are sunny, bright colours, good acidity, just more concentrated than usual and rich in fruit. Our tastings confirmed all in all the above picture, with the reds generally are elegant and fruity and well balanced. On the contrary in the whites, especially the Chablis, we didn’t find the usual very sharp acidity which normally characterises the youth of these wines, something that certainly improves their immediate drinkability. It is however necessary to understand if and how much this will affect their proverbial longevity over time. In short, the problem of global warming does not seem to save even this region that has seen only in 2021 a harvest in the usual times, after three early harvests. Last note, the percentage of wineries in Burgundy is growing increasingly also for the highest range wines using tech stoppers (Diam in particular): a choice that, if on the one hand secures the wine from TCA, the molecule responsible for the annoying smell of cork, on the other hand makes the purists of the cork stopper turn up their noses.
For many years unjustly neglected by the great international press - the English-speaking one in particular, more interested for market reasons in Bordeaux wines - often relegated to the role of wines for lovers only. In the last decade however, the wines of Burgundy are reaping success, both at journalistic and commercial level. At the end of March, the traditional appointment with Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, the biennial event that travels around Burgundy––this year with an extremely warm spring climate––welcomed importers, buyers, enthusiasts and journalists from all over the world. The calendar of events was very full: five days of tastings scattered among mediaeval castles, wineries and tonnellerie, so as to taste the wines in the territories where they are produced. Basically two vintages presented: 1. Vintage 2019: 1. Vintage 2019: stressed winegrowers quite a bit; the winter was mild and with temperatures above average, as well as the beginning of spring, marking an advance of the vegetative cycle. Unfortunately from April 5 an unexpected great cold lasted until mid-month, and which caused several frosts throughout the region. Then the temperatures recovered, while the summer was warm and dry. However, the grapes arrived healthy in the cellar and without any particular stress, only the quantity harvested was much lower than average, only 1.23 million hectolitres in all. Rich in fruit and balanced whites, while the reds are very elegant, marked by soft tannins and a beautiful ripe fruit.
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grands-jours-bourgogne.fr
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the whites
TOP CHARTS
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume ‘20 – Domaine Clotilde Davenne Préhy 3 rue de Chantemerle +33(0)683060714 clotildedavenne.fr
Clotilde Davenne, after studying oenology and several experiences abroad, has been producing wines in Chablisien since 1989. From one of the best Premier Cru of the appellation her Fourchaume ‘20 has a bouquet of citrus, thyme and hawthorn and white pulp fruits; fresh, vigorous and slender, the sip is marked by a beautiful sunny and citrusy finish.
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains ‘19 – Domaine Gerard Duplessis Chablis 5 quai de Reugny +33(0)386421035 chablis-duplessis.com
Founded in 1895, the domaine is now run by Lilian Duplessis, who in 2010 converted the eight hectares of the estate’s vineyards to organic farming, spread over twenty different plots. Exotic fruits, white mint, aromatic herbs, bergamot and jasmine among the explosive scents of a large and complex bouquet, in tune with the mouthfeel that is fresh, saline and well balanced between fruit and acidity.
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir ‘20 – Domaine de l’Enclos Chablis 1 rue du Puits +33(0) 386482917 domainedelenclos.fr
The winery of the brothers Romain and Damien Bouchard, has 29 hectares of vineyards all certified organic, of which a dozen among the premier and grand cru. The Grand Cru Vaudésir ‘20 promises a clear and refined bouquet that ranges from yellow flowers and yellow fruits to dark citrus notes and aromatic herbs. The mouthfeel is full and juicy with a lively and distinct acidity for a long and balsamic finish.
Vougeot Premier Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot Monopole ‘19 – Domaine de la Vougeraie Prémeaux-Prissey 7 bis rue de l’Église +33(0)380624825 domaine delavougeraie.com
Among the many properties of the Domaine de la Vougeraie, there is the monopole Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, one of the few white berried vineyards in the heart of Vosne-Romanée. The vintage ‘19 has enveloping and inviting aromas of exotic fruits, citrus, lavender flowers on a beautiful mineral background, elegant sip that stretches well pushed by a fresh acidic backbone for a very long finish in perfect balance between fruit and flavour.
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BURGUNDY PREVIEW
Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos de Monts Luisants ‘19 – Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 21 rue della Montagne +33(0)380343246 domaine-ponsot.com
Like a diamond set between rubies, the Clos de Monts Luisants stands out not only for being a white vineyard in an area of reds, but also for being the only premier cru of Burgundy entirely made from Aligoté grapes. The vintage ‘19 has an extraordinary bouquet with mineral and citrus tones, aromatic herbs, exotic fruits, spices and almonds, very elegant sip, thick, savoury and of extraordinary freshness and persistence.
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru ‘19 – Edouard Delaunay L’Étang-Vergy 39 Rue de Beaune +33(0)631025027 edouard-delaunay.com
Laurent Delanuy took over the reins of the family business founded by his great-uncle Edouard in Nuits-Saint-Georges in 1893. Corton Charlemagne ‘19 is a wine of great olfactory expression, crystalline bouquet of yellow flowers, beeswax, green tea, mint, exotic fruits and sweet spices. The mouthfeel has great consistency, balance and finesse, vibrant acidity, citrusy and fragrant.
Montrachet Marquise de Laguiche Grand Cru ‘19 – Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune 7 rue d’Enfer +33(0)380246888 drouhin.fr
Belonging to the Laguiche marquises since 1776, the two hectares cultivated by the Drouhin family, represent the largest parcel within the world’s most famous Chardonnay vineyard. Chalky minerality, elderflower, yellow fruits, anise, mountain herbs among the scents of a bouquet of rare breadth and depth, with innate class; the mouthfeel is lashed by a dragging acidity, although very young it is already harmonious and persistent.
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle Monopole Premier Cru ‘20 – Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny Montrachet 8 bis Gran Rue +33(0)380 219919 jeanchartron.com
Jean Michel Chartron owns about fifteen hectares of vineyards, in the village of Puligny-Montrachet, scattered among the most famous crus. Of his vast number of appellations, we loved his Monopole Clos de la Pucelle, from the granite minerality, scented with citrus, acacia, yellow fruits and white mint; a spicy sip, white pepper, with a savoury acidity and a nice dynamic and saline finish.
Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru Les Chaumees 2020 – Domaine des Terres de Velle Auxey-Duresses 2 chemin sous la Velle +33(0)380228031 terresdevelle.fr
Sophie and Fabrice Laronze cultivate their vineyards in the most careful way possible in regards to the environment and biodiversity, sensitive to the practices of biodynamics. Very pleasant Chassagne Montrachet Les Chaumees ‘20 with complex scents of yellow fruits, salted almonds, linden and Mediterranean maquis. Harmonious mouthfeel, nice structure, compact but well supported by acidity, long and tasty finish.
Rully Blanc Les Plantenays ‘19 – Domaine de la Renarde Jully lés Buxy Lieu dit La Renarde +33(0)67070076651 domainelarenarde.com
Truly amazing wines of this small winery of only twenty hectares in the denominations of Montagny, Rully and Givry, in the heart of the Cote Chalonnaisse. Local wines, clean and well made, excellent value for money, such as Rully Les Plantenays, 19 with a wide bouquet of yellow fruits, peach and apricot, citrus, anise, fresh herbs and white pepper, energetic, elegant and fresh sip.
Meursault Charmes Premier Cru ‘19 – Domaine des Comte Lafon Meursault 5 Rue Pierre Joigneaux +33(0)380 212217 comteslafon.fr
The one belonging to the Lafon family is one of the wineries that have made the history of Burgundy. Their beautiful vineyards, all biodynamically cultivated, are among the finest cru of Mersault. Their wines have an unmistakable style, elegant and consistent with the terroir and vintage. The Charmes ‘19 is no exception, the aristocratic bouquet smells of star anise, citrus, graphite, sweet spices and ripe yellow fruits, fresh, full and vibrant sip and a very deep finish.
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the reds
TOP CHARTS
Echezeaux Grand Cru ‘20 – Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée 5 rue des Communes +33(0)380 610157 mugneret-gibourg.com
All female-run domaine managed first by Jacqueline Mugneret and now by her daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée, but already the third generation is ready to take over, in fact their four daughters also work in the company. Ethereal and elegant to the nose between hints of blackberry fruits, licorice and undergrowth, Echezeaux ‘20 has fresh and juicy tannins, a nice crisp and well defined fruit and a persistent balsamic finish.
Echezeaux Grand Cru ‘20 – Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 6 rue de la Croix-Rameau +33(0)380610595 domainegrivot.fr
Although only 15 hectares, the Grivot family can boast an enviable heritage of vineyards, divided into three grands cru and nine premiers cru. Deep and complex nose with hints of berry jelly, balsamic herbs and wild rose, the sip is in great balance between the juicy fruit, a fresh acidic vein and smooth tannins from the refined grain. This is a wine to leave in the cellar for a long time.
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes ‘19 – Domaine Henri Rebourseau Gevrey Chambertin 10 Place du Monument +33(0)380518894 domaine-reborseau.com
The domaine founded in 1782 by Jacques Rebourseau boasts almost three hectares between the grand cru of Gevrey-Chambertin and two in the Clos de Vougeot. With its deep and distinct minerality, Vieilles Vigne ‘19 smells of dark cherry, cardamom, red citrus and licorice root. The mouthfeel is sumptuous and energetic, with thick tannins that sink into the juicy fruit, while the aromatic persistence is remarkable.
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru ‘20 – Domaine Mèo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 11 rue des Grands Crus +33(0)380615555 meocamuzet.com
Etienne Camuzet, before handing it over to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, was the last owner of the historic Chateau du Clos de Vougeot. From the three hectares of vineyard left to the family in 2020 came a Clos de Vougeot of rare elegance: mineral, balsamic, the fruit is crisp and ripe and with a suggestive spicy background, the sip is precise and enveloping, well defined by sweet and smooth tannins for a savoury and long finish.
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BURGUNDY PREVIEW
Corton Les Bressandes Grand Cru ‘18 – Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne Montrachet 5 rue du Château +33(0)380219857 famillepicard.fr
Talented Francine Picard manages the family winery in the historic Château de Chassagne-Montrachet. Corton Les Bressandes ‘18 has a very elegant nose of red fruits, withered flowers, balsamic herbs on a delicate spicy and toasted background; the mouthfeel is sapid and fresh, and the quintessence of refinement, perfectly balanced between tannins and fruit, and long persistence.
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru ‘20 – Domaine Castagnier Morey-Saint-Denis 20 rue des Jardins +33(0)380343162
Jerome Castagnier, considered one of the young talents of Burgundy, cultivates his vineyards in Morey-Saint-Denis with biodynamic agriculture. Elegant and ethereal on the nose his Clos Saint Denis ‘20 with scents of small red fruits in jam, undergrowth, aromatic herbs. The mouthfeel is broad and enveloping with a silky tannic texture and a remarkable and harmonious taste persistence.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru ‘20 – Domaine David Duband Chevannes 12 rue du Lavoir +33(0)380614116 domaine-duband.com
It was 1991 when the young David Duband founded his company with just over a hectare of vineyard, now there are twenty hectares and he bottles twenty denominations. The Clos de la Roche ‘20 promises well, spiced with black pepper, it is redolent of wild strawberries, elderflower, lavender and other aromatic herbs, the balsamic, rich and deep taste is well dotted with fresh and refined tannins.
Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard ‘19 – Domaine Cécile Tremblay Morey-Saint-Denis 1 rue de la Fontaine +33(0)345836008 domainececiletremblay.fr
Since 2003, the year of her first harvest, Cécile Tremblay has set the goal of finding the maximum stylistic coherence between elegance, grape and terroir, for this reason she chose to cultivate her vineyards with the protocols of biodynamic agriculture. Crisp, rich in fruit and minerality, this wine that many would define a simple village, but which instead has the elegance and aromatic persistence of a cru of a very different lineage.
Rully Les Champs Cloux Premier Cru ‘19 – Domaine De Villaine Bouzeron 2 rue della Fontaine +33(0)385 912050 devillaine.com
This wine shows that it is possible to call Aubert De Villaine, yes, him – no homonymy – and to produce excellent wines, elegant, territorial, which do not cost a fortune. The delicious Rully that De Villane costs only about forty euros, produced from organic grapes. In the glass is a wine with clear hints of wild red fruits, mint, thyme and pink peppercorns: fresh, savoury, well balanced between tannins and fruit and with beautiful length.
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VINI D’ITALIA GAMBERO ROSSO
TASTING NOTES Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi are the pride of Vini d’Italia. Small productions up against prestigious best sellers, in a review that involves the best labels tasted from our experts: we share them in this new column with our tasting notes
PIEDMONT Vinicola Arno
via Nizza, 1090 Mombercelli (AT) 3477904968 - vinicolaarno.com Vinicola Arno is the creature of Michael and Maria, he’s an Emilia-Romagna native, she’s Portuguese from the Douro valley. Together they decided in 2017 to acquire a vineyard and build their own cellar, in Mombercelli, a small town between Asti and Nizza Monferrato. Among the vineyards, which also extend in the municipality of Castelnuovo Calcea and Asti, there are also 75-year-old vines. The varieties grown are nascetta, sauvignon and obviously barbera. NIZZA LORELLA ‘18 Fascinating this Nizza Lorella ‘18, with intense aromas of sweet spices and black berries; and a pulpy, fresh and long palate.
via Nigoline, 98 Adro (BS) 0307457803 monziocompagnoni.com Marcello Monzio Compagnoni, who died prematurely last December, had moved from his native Valcalepio to Franciacorta in 1995. Here he founded his company, a modern and wellequipped maison, where he cultivated his passion for the world of Classic Method bubbles. Approximately 17 hectares of vineyards give life to labels bearing his name.
FRANCIACORTA BRUT CUVÉE ALLA MODA This year we enjoyed tasting the Franciacorta Brut Cuvée alla Moda, the result of an assembly of chardonnay (80%) and pinot noir (20%). It offers intensely rich tones of yeast, almond and toasted hazelnuts. The mouth is rich and pulpy, with a creamy and well-measured effervescence, and a relaxed and harmonious finish.
Strengthening the already qualified image of the brand and insisting on the character of the elaborated sparkling wines: these are the objectives of this historic company within the oenological orbit controlled by Cavit. The shared synergies are only commercial, since Cesarini Sforza is an autonomous and distinctive brand. The winery, located in southern Trento, in so-called bubbles land, has renewed its oenological management entrusting it to Andrea Buccella and has compacted the range of its lively Trento Docs, immediately aiming for prestigious goals. TRENTO BRUT NATURE NOIR 1673 RIS. ‘15 Intriguing Nature Noir ‘15 is pure Pinot Noir of great fabric, absolutely precise in the texture of the bubbles as in the frank gustatory complexity.
ALTO ADIGE Cantina Kaltern
TRENTINO Cesarini Sforza
LOMBARDIA Monzio Compagnoni
via Cantine, 12 Caldaro/Kaltern (BZ) 0471963149 kellereikaltern.com
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/13
fraz. Ravina - via Stella, 9 Trento 0461382200 - cesarinisforza.com
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The large cooperative of Caldaro is one of the absolute protagonists of the wine scene in the province of Bolzano. It is a reality that relies on the meticulous work
TASTING NOTES
of more than 600 families, engaged in the cultivation of small patches of land under the wise direction of staff led by Andrea Moser. A veritable viticultural and varietal puzzle that develops mainly in the Oltradige area, without forgetting the parcels located between the Bolzano basin, the Isarco valley and the areas further south.
A. A. SAUVIGNON QUINTESSENZ ‘19
The vineyard from which this wine is born is located in Pianizza di Sopra, 500 meters above sea level, facing east. Elegance is perceived in the fragrant aromatic profile reminiscent of yellow peach, aromatic herbs and white flowers. The palate is soft and juicy, thanks to sapidity that enhances the taste.
VENETO Adami
fraz. Colbertaldo via Rovede, 27 Vidor (TV) 0423982110 - adamispumanti.it The company belonging to the Adami brothers is part of those realities that have contributed to the affirmation of Prosecco as a quality wine all over the world. As often happens in this area, the company does not have particularly extensive vineyards, but the properties are included in some of the best exposures of the appellation, among which the Rive di Colbertaldo with the historic Giardino vineyard and the Credazzo towers stand out, instead Banks of Farra di Soligo. Wines that
have their distinctive trait in harmony and aromatic breadth.
TUSCANY Castello di Querceto
VALDOBBIADENE RIVE DI COLBERTALDO ASCIUTTO VIGN. GIARDINO ‘20 Exemplary taste of Giardino ‘20, a wine that conveys all the playfulness of Prosecco, made of fresh and inviting aromas, lightness of taste, sapidity and balance of sugars.
Monte del Fra’
s.da per Custoza, 35 Sommacampagna (VR) 045510490 montedelfra.it After its first sixty years of momentum, Monte del Frà shows no signs of slowing down, thanks to one of the largest wine-growing platforms in the province exploring the main Verona appellations. The beating heart of the company is still based in Custoza, but increasing attention is being paid to Valpolicella, interpreted with a light and sensitive hand that reflects the style that has always identified Monte del Frà. The helm is in the capable hands of Marica, Silvia and Massimo, with their respective dads Eligio and Claudio who contribute their experience. CUSTOZA CA’ DEL MAGRO ‘19 Custoza Ca’ del Magro ‘19 shows clear notes of ripe yellow fruit on the nose, with floral accents and a burst of saffron. On the palate the balanced richness of the wine’s acidity and the characteristic sapid note are striking.
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via A. François, 2 Greve in Chianti (FI) 05585921 castellodiquerceto.it The Castle of Querceto has been owned by the François family since the late 19th century. Today at the helm are Alessandro and Maria Antonietta, well assisted by their children Lia and Simone, who embody the future of the winery that’s often able to put its “signature” on events surrounding Gallo Nero. The farm is located in the sub-area of Greve in Chianti, which overlooks the Arezzo area, characterised by an almost continental climate. A privileged situation, according to current changes, that creates the conditions to shape wines that are increasingly characteristic, fragrant and graceful. CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. 18 The Chianti Classico Riserva ‘18 is a successful wine, with a balanced bouquet of fruity notes and toasted touches, as well as a nice note of flint closing the circle. On the mouth it is long and reactive, with nervous tannins that underline its character.
Tenuta di Artimino
fraz. Artimino v.le Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1 Carmignano (PO) 0558751423 - artimino.com
VINI D’ITALIA GAMBERO ROSSO
The medieval village of Artimino houses the imposing Medici residence Villa La Ferdinanda, which is an integral part of the Estate. For the past forty years, the property has been in the hands of the Olmo family, famous for the brand of bicycles that bears its name. The vineyards extend between two appellations, Carmignano and Chianti Montalbano: growing here are Tuscan varieties but also Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The latter is now considered traditional in Carmignano, since it was introduced by Caterina de’ Medici already in the sixteenth century. CARMIGNANO GRUMARELLO RIS. ‘16 The Carmignano Riserva Grumarello ‘16 is excellent, with a rich nose of plum, undergrowth and pepper. The mouthfeel is velvety, with a fine and silky tannic texture, and a nice finish with a pungent and mineral graphite finish.
MARCHE Santa Barbara
b.go Mazzini, 35 Barbara (AN) 0719674249 santabarbara.it Stefano Antonucci is not accustomed to settling, it’s not really in his character to just get by. However, this does not mean he’s overdoing it, either. One step at a time. Now it’s the winery with the construction of a new, modern office with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Rationalisation operations have been carried out to better manage the production pro-
cess. The range is as always very wide, with some labels now taken to the role of great classics of regional oenology.. VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. STEFANO ANTONUCCI ‘19
The Verdicchio Stefano Antonucci in the Vini d’Italia 2022 guide wins with the 2019 vintage: shapely, dynamic, juicy and deep are some of the best adjectives to describe it.
ABRUZZO F.lli Barba
loc. Scerne s.da rotabile per Casoli Pineto (TE) 0859461020 - fratellibarba.it Colle Morino, Casal Thaulero and Vignafranca: these are the territories where the over 60 hectares of vineyards of brothers Giovanni, Domenico and Vincenzo Barba are located. The three inherited the company started by Cavalier Luigi in the 1950s, when, from a past sharecropper, a new phase was inaugurated with direct management. The grapes are pressed in the Scerne di Pineto headquarters: Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Pecorino are transformed into labels with a modern approach, but which nevertheless manage to keep their own varietal imprint. COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO YANG ‘19 The Colline Teramane Yang ‘19 is redolent of medicinal herbs, has balsamic nuances of pepper, loam, black olives,
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blueberries, graphite; the palate shows a creamy tannin that rests on a background veined by a pleasant savoury sensation..
CAMPANIA Marisa Cuomo
via G. B. Lama, 16/18 Furore (SA) 089830348 - marisacuomo.com Often abused or misused, the term, “heroic winemaking” becomes necessary to properly frame the work of Marisa Cuomo and Andrea Ferraioli in their Furore vineyards. Now supported on a permanent basis by their children Dora and Raffaele, their continuous struggle is with space and rock. Terraced vineyards planted with pergolas, overlooking the Amalfi Coast and requiring dozens of micro-parcels to obtain a few thousand bottles. Sacrifices are repaid by the sensational success of wines such as Fiorduva, a legendary blend of ripoli, fenile and ginestra grapes. COSTA D’AMALFI FURORE BIANCO FIORDUVA ‘20 And precisely Fiorduva this year again brings home the coveted Tre Bicchieri to Furore. The usual multifaceted nose - straw and hay, spicy nuances, candied ginger, citron peel - anticipates a creamy palate, but more gleaming and graceful than in some versions of the past; Mediterranean flavour and warmth are dragged into a long finish by calibrated acidic tension.brata tensione acida.
TASTING NOTES
PUGLIA Amastuola
via Appia Km 632,00 Massafra (TA) 0998805668 - amastuola.it The winery, founded by Giuseppe Montanaro in a farm dating back to the 15th century, is located in the heart of the Regional Natural Park Terra delle Gravine, at over 200 metres above sea level. The surrounding vineyards, designed by the landscape artist Fernando Caruncho, are organically grown and have a rather large vine park, ranging from traditional grapes, such as primitivo or malvasia, to merlot or chardonnay. Wines, of good workmanship and character, propose an approach mainly played on varietal expression and pleasantness. AGLIANICO ‘17 The Aglianico ‘17 is of beautiful texture and freshness, with floral and black fruit notes, followed by nuances of Mediterranean maquis, and a long, juicy finish.
Due Palme
via San Marco, 130 Cellino San Marco (BR) 0831617865 - cantineduepalme.it In just over thirty years Cantine Due Palme has become one of the most important wineries in all of Puglia, and today it can count on a viticultural heritage of about 2,500 hectares, located between the provinces of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce, worked by
1,200 winegrower members. The result is a production of about 17 million bottles, divided into a range of approximately forty labels, mainly centred on red wines made from native grape varieties, of good technical workmanship, reliable and boasting typically Mediterranean character.
mulberry on the nose, while the palate is clear, consistent, with good freshness and length.
CALABRIA Terre del Gufo – Muzzillo
1943 DEL PRESIDENTE ‘19
Beautiful confirmation for the 1943 del Presidente, blend of primitivo and aglianico. The 2019 version with tones of black fruits with balsamic nuances on the nose follows a palate of remarkable structure, at the same time juicy and with great persistencea.
Terrecarsiche 1939
via Maestri del Lavoro, 6/8 Castellana Grotte (BA) 0804962309 - terrecarsiche. it Officially founded in 2011, the Insalata family business refers to a family tradition that dates back to 1939. The property’s vineyards are located in the areas of the denomination of Gioia del Colle and in the Itria Valley, to which are added a selection of grapes delivered by trusted winegrowers with whom the winery works with throughout the year, monitoring the vineyards, for a production of over twenty labels. The wines are well made technically, in a modern facility, are gritty and have a beautiful freshness.
c.da Albo San Martino, 22a Cosenza 0984780364 - terredelgufo. it The production of the winery founded by architect Giuseppe Muzzillo with his children Eugenio and Francesca (both teachers at the University of Naples, respectively of Philosophy and Landscape Architecture) has always been among the most interesting of a territory dedicated to viticulture: Donnici. In recent times there have been some small innovations in the cellar: maceration, for example, has become longer and the old barriques have left room for new barrels of larger dimensions. The wines have benefitted from this from the beginning. TERRE DI COSENZA ROSSO ESTREMO ‘19 The Estremo is a pure Magliocco, already thick in its aromatic profile that plays between nuances of ripe black berries, sweet spices and toasted sensations. On the palate the tannin is present and constitutes the scaffolding of a fragrant sip..
GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO FANOVA ‘19 Convincing and successful Gioia del Colle Primitivo Fanova ‘19, with aromas of cherry jam and
TASTING NOTES GAMBERO ROSSO
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MAY-JUNE 2022
GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Gianluca Atzeni, Clara Barra, Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio, Emiliano Gucci, Massimo Lanza, Paola Mencarelli, Valentina Marino, Kyoko Nakayama, William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Loredana Sottile, Alessio Turazza PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Paolo Della Corte, Alberto Giardina, Alessandro Naldi, Loris Premoli, Sébastien Boulard/Grands Jours de Bourgogne, Francesco Vignali GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising Class Pubblicità SpA Milano, Via Marco Burigozzo, 5 - tel. 02 58219522 For commercial enquiries: kanchieri@class.it Advertising director
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