CUE: Fall Fashion 2014

H O M E | FAS H I O N | B E AU T Y

THE CHANGING FACE OF

MENSWEAR PERFECT

A GAMBIT PUBLICATION | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 4

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stationery and invitations

for every occasion

5423 magazine street {504.897.1555}

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www.scriptura.com

corner of severn & 17th street {504.219.1113}

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CONTENTS

HOME

in Style 15 Built Creative ways to fire up your space

N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

SHOPPING

11

New & Cool

35

CUE Kids

Fringe benefits

FASHION

Fun Halloween pieces with safety features

designers and boutiques

Lilah Jurgens’ intaglios and New Orleans Style

A roundup of chic fall handbags

BEAUTY

13 What guys want 40 CUE Tips Emerging local menswear 19 Grab bags

25 Then and now

Retro-futuristic mod styles at the Lakefront Airport

39

different cloth 43 37 ABlissett Textiles launches a pop-up shop.

Lusterphile

The latest look of lipsticks

PERSPECTIVES

Shop Dogs

Dottie of Tooth and Nail Company

ON THE COVER: Fringed jacket, $599 at Yvonne LaFleur; earrings, $350, cuff, $625, both at Culture Shock; gray gloves, $35, compact, $65, both at Retro Active Vintage; wig, $38 at Fifi Mahony’s.

ON CUE

MARGO DUBOS |

MISSY WILKINSON |

EDITOR

EDITORIAL K ANDACE P OWER GR AVE S

M A N A G IN G ED I TO R

CO N T R IB U T IN G W R I T ER S

CHRIS T Y LORIO, ANDRE A BLUMENS TEIN, LEE CUTRONE

PUBLISHER

DORA SISON |

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

CHRIS TIN GREEN

A DV ER T I S IN G CO O R D IN ATO R 483-3138 christing@gambitweekly.com

IN T ER N

ACCOU N T E X ECU T I V ES JILL GIEGER

PRODUCTION

483-3131

CORE YIEL ELLIS

G R A P HI C D E S I G NER S

LY N V I C K N A I R , P A I G E H I N R I C H S , JULIE T MEEK S, DAVID K ROLL, J A S O N W H I T TA K E R

S ENI O R A CCO U N T E X EC U T I V E jillg@gambitweekly.com

JEFFRE Y PIZ ZO 483-3145 jeffp@gambitweekly.com

P R E- P R E S S CO O R D IN ATO R

LINDA L ACHIN 483-3142 lindal@gambitweekly.com

DISPL AY A DV ERT ISI NG S ANDY S TEIN BRONDUM

KRIS TIN HARTENS TEIN PELLEGRIN 483-3141 kristinh@gambitweekly.com

K AT H R Y N B R A D Y

A DV ER T I S IN G D IR EC TO R

483-3150 sandys@gambitweekly.com MICHELE SLONSKI

A DV ER T I S IN G A D M INI S T R ATO R

483-3140 micheles@gambitweekly.com

BR ANDIN DUBOS 483-3152 brandind@gambitweekly.com S AVA NN A A R M S TRONG 483-3144 savannaa@gambitweekly.com

G AM B I T | 3 9 23 B I E N V I L L E S T R E E T | N E W O R L E AN S, L A 7 0119 5 04. 48 6. 590 0 | response@gambitweekly.com

GOT AN IDEA FOR CUE ? EMAIL US: cue@gambitweekly.com NOVEM BER. 2 0 1 4 <<<

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DESTINATION COLLECTION Leather Handbags

Magazine Street Crossbody Bag

H A N D C R A F T E D I N A M E R IC A 3801 MAGAZINE STREET 504.891.2005 CANAL PLACE 504.524.2973

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•

•

LAKESIDE 504.835.2244

WWW.MIGNONFAGET.COM

NEW + COOL

SHOPPING

Fringe

festival LIFE ON

THE FRINGE

NEVER LOOKED SO STYLISH.

BY COREYIEL ELLIS

Add a touch of fun with a fringe necklace, $45 at Cella’s Boutique (514 St. Peter St., 504-529-5110; 3013 Magazine St., 504-592-7510; www.facebook.com/cellasboutique).

This fringed poncho is a cozy option for lightweight layering, $75 at Em’s Boutique (246 Metairie Road, Metairie, 504834-2795; www.facebook.com/shopems).

Make the transition into fall with black fringe ankle boots, Boutique. $59 at Cella’s Boutique

A quartz pendant by Port Street Jewelry features hand-cut brass and Indian tassels, $22-36 at Branch Out (2022 Magazine St., 504-371-5913; www.branchoutshop.com).

A shaggy bag can funkify any outfit, $65 at Em’s Boutique.

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D E C N E I R E P X E T GE

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W H AT G U Y S WAN T

Renaissance

MEN

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) Fifteen-year-old Rahsaan Ison, creator of Ison Bowties, models a tie of his own design.

Photo by L. Kasimu Harris Denim jackets are among the fall inventory at Fraques.

Photo courtesy Fraques Aristocracy’s interior is rustic yet industrial.

Photo courtesy Aristocracy NOLA

B Y CO R E Y I E L E L L I S

NEW STORES AND YOUNG DESIGNERS DRIVE MENSWEAR’S CHANGING FACE AND GROWING POPULARITY IN NEW ORLEANS.

U

ntil recently, local menswear options were limited to a handful of specialty stores and chains. But there has been a resurgence of menswear options in New Orleans, including recently opened stores like Aristocracy Nola (305 Decatur St., 504-309-7433; www.aristocracynola.com) and Fraques (821 Baronne St., 504373-6153; www.fraques.com) and emerging menswear designers.

When Jason Pham, co-owner of Aristocracy Nola, opened his store in December 2013, he chose to focus on men’s streetwear.

“Street style is whatever you feel like throwing on,” Pham says. “There are no boundaries. I think in life there are too many boundaries.”

Pham tries to provide what’s lacking in the menswear options when selecting what to sell at his store.

He says his customers are becoming more adventurous in their choices.

“When I did my inventory, I tried to play it safe, [choosing] 60 percent normal clothes and 40 percent kind of funky [clothes],” Pham says.

“Now when I’m picking my clothes I’m jumping off the cliff. The city’s ready to embrace it.”

As demand for on-trend menswear increases, so do style options.

Men are doing research and have stronger ideas about how they want to present themselves through personal style, Pham says.

Fashion blogs, street-style websites and online shopping help men become more open-minded when selecting their clothing.

“I think what helps out a lot is the Internet,” Pham says. “In the ’90s when the Internet wasn’t [used by] a lot of people, if you saw a dude from New York come down here, it was like, ‘What does he have on?’”

Frank D’Amico and Jacques Couvillon, co-owners of Fraques, say men want pleasant and hassle-free shopping.

“Our regular customers are people who are looking for the shopping experience,” Couvillon says. “They don’t want to drive out to the mall and park 20 minutes away. ... They don’t like to be pressured by salespeople. We have people that come in here with their dogs. They can’t do that somewhere else.”

FASHION

Couvillon and D’Amico opened Fraques after noticing a lack of variety available for men.

“We’ve always had a passion for style and clothes and looking your best,” D’Amico says. “We thought that New Orleans is ready for our kind of store.”

At Fraques, men can style a wardrobe, pick up items for their home, travel and more.

“The name Fraques is a combination of our names, Frank and Jacques, and if you look around [the store], you can see that’s exactly what it is,” Couvillon says.

“It’s a part of both of us. We have art and architecture books, we have home goods. It’s more about a matter of lifestyle.”

Couvillon and D’Amico try to

educate customers about different clothing styles and fits.

“It’s about getting people in here and showing them that you can change your style without being scared that your co-workers or other people around you are going to be shocked,” D’Amico says.

Eighteen-year-old New Orleanian Randy Gervais, creator of Checker Box socks (www.checkerboxusa. com), offers fresh designs in dress socks. Gervais created Checker Box socks in 2013 to offer men more choices and bolder looks.

“With men, there’s only so much you can do to add to your outfit,” Gervais says. “You only see polka dots, stripes and argyle for men.”

Now Checker Box socks are sold at Rubensteins (102 St. Charles Ave., 504-581-6666; www.rubensteinsneworleans. com) and the gift shop at The Roosevelt Hotel (130 Roosevelt Way, 504-648-1200; www. therooseveltneworleans.com). Next up for Gervais are casual socks, which he’ll release next month.

Rahsaan Ison, creator of Ison Bowties (www.facebook.com/isonbowtiesetc), launched his bow tie line in New Orleans when he was 13 years old. Now 15, Ison offers quirky designs he calls “wearable art.”

“Ison bow ties are for people who like standing out from the crowd,” Ison says. He notes the change in men’s attitudes toward fashion as a factor in the menswear renaissance. “When people start to stray from the crowd, they start to find themselves,” Ison says.

D’Amico says a good outfit can boost self-esteem and help people have a better day. “It’s such a simple thing, putting clothes on, but it makes such a difference in their confidence and what they feel like they can do,” D’Amico says. “If you walk out of our store and have no insecurities, you’re going to have a great rest of your day.”

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WHOLESALE TO THE PUBLIC

Wholesale & Retail

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BUILT IN STYLE

HOME

Playing

fire with

NO FUNCTIONAL FIREPLACE? NO PROBLEM. HERE ARE INNOVATIVE WAYS TO BRING THE WARMTH AND DRAMA OF FLAMES TO ANY SPACE.

B Y

O

M I S S Y

W I L K I N S O N

ld New Orleans homes are often long on charm and short on energy efficiency.

Case in point: many fireplaces in the notoriously drafty structures don’t work. While some homeowners are content to screen off the dark, empty hearth and call it a day, there are a host of new, innovative ways to safely introduce fire to spaces indoors and out.

Whether your goal is aesthetic (to introduce the look of flames) or functional (you want to warm your space by at least a few degrees), there’s a product suited for the job.

Nomita Joshi Gupta, a board member at The Green Project (2831 Marais St., 504-945-0240; www.thegreenproject.org), architect, designer and owner of Spruce Interiors and Design (2043 Magazine St., 504-265-0946; www.sprucenola. com), says her clients sometimes request largescale custom fireplaces, but often, a small fire element can produce the same effect.

“People want touches of warmth,” Gupta says.

“People like to have a glow, whether it actually gives out warmth or not.”

Employees at Brasa Fire (www.brasa.co), a New Orleans-based company that began selling its eco-friendly, portable fireplaces in 2009, notice the same trend. “We’ve moved away from the larger, custom-installed fireplaces and are doing smaller fire features,” says Adrienne Hennessey, marketing director at Brasa Fire.

Hennessey says the company’s shadow lanterns are their primary sellers. The sculptural urns contain a fire element that burns eco-friendly bioethanol fuel, which is made from discarded brewery mash. The only byproducts are water vapor and a small amount of carbon dioxide. (“The same amount you and I expel by talking,” Hennessey says.)

Shadow lanterns by Brasa Fire range from $230 to $275 and will be on sale at the Harrison Avenue and Freret Street markets through November.

PHOTO COURTESY BRASA FIRE

From a designer’s perspective, the shadow lanterns feel high-end, and from a consumer standpoint, they’re a great conversation piece, Hennessey says. Bigger than candles and smaller than fireplaces, the lanterns can be placed anywhere some extra warmth and excitement are desired.

“They are small enough to sit tabletop, indoors or outdoors, and they raise the temperature of a room 3 to 7 degrees [depending on their size],” Hennessey says. “If you have a drafty room or a closed-up fireplace, you don’t have to do any modifications in order to use them.”

Fireorbs (www.fireorb.net) are another modern way to introduce fire to the home.

The futuristic, podlike casing hangs from the ceiling and rotates 360 degrees. Daniel Weiner, an architect with Wisznia|Architecture+Development, says he will include the orbs in the penthouses of his next development.

In a press release, Fireorb creator Doug Garofalo stated, “You can have essentially fire floating in air in a room ... in front of a window — fire floating in a landscape. It’s magical.”

Fireorbs start at $5,900, and there are both wood- and bioethanol-burning models. For people seeking a budget-friendly option, Gupta recommends building an outdoor fire pit using repurposed materials.

“You can create a fire pit out of pretty much anything,” Gupta says. “You just have to find a vessel, a fire source and fireproof material.”

Gupta suggests using an old iron sink, bird

bath or terra cotta chimney pipes to make a fire pit. “Find a really beautiful planter or an old iron sink, fill it up with pebbles and put in a fire unit [a steel box that contains the fuel],” she says. “Don’t put a fireplace closer than 5 feet to any flammable material.”

Fire boxes cost $60 to $200, and repurposed materials range from a few dollars to a few hundred. Gupta says some people buy salvaged fireplace mantels from The Green Project and fill them with candles, which approximates the look of a working fireplace.

“That is another cool way of bringing warmth and light into a space,” Gupta says.

For people who like the look of fire but don’t want to worry about safety, Gupta suggests electric fireplaces. “You can literally plug them into the wall,” she says. Gupta recommends Napoleon electric fireplaces (www.napoleonfireplaces. com), but warns they can look artificial. An alternative is to fill tall, clear vases with Christmas lights. “You have a warm glow, but you don’t have to deal with fire,” Gupta says.

Hennessey says one of her favorite things about the shadow lanterns is their convenience.

“After dinner, I like to turn one on outside, have a glass of wine and then I just snuff if out,” Hennessey says. “It’s not a big investment of time and effort to use them. … [They] can make a drafty space feel cozy or fancy up your space for parties.”

“People always gather [around] a fire,” Gupta says. “It’s a very community-type of feature, a fireplace. It draws families together.”

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FEATURE

FASHION

GRAB BAGS WHETHER METALLIC, JEWELED OR MADE OF EXOTIC LEATHERS,

FALL HANDBAGS ARE IRRESISTABLY LUXE. B Y

M I S S Y

W I L K I N S O N

Jeweled clutch, $50 at Fini (6250 Gen. Diaz St., 504-304-0633; www.finiboutique.com).

Calf and cowhide leather messenger bag

by Laura Vela, $490 at Angelique Shoe (5421 Magazine St., 504-891-8992; www.angeliqueshoe.com).

Sculptural gold clutch, $50 at SOPO (629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-609-2429; www.soponola.com).

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LOOKING TO MAKE A

STATEMENT THIS FALL?

WOMEN’S APPAREL ◊ HOUSEWARES UNIQUE GIFTS FOR MEN, WOMEN & BABY

629 N. CARROLLTON AVENUE 504.609.2429 ◊ facebook.com/soponola

WWW.SOPONOLA.COM

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PAGE 19

FEATURE

FASHION

NFL-compliant handcrafted crossbody bag by Flying Fox, $78 at SOPO.

Alligator bag by Porter Lyons, $875 at Porter Lyons (www. porterlyons.com).

Limited-edition pink python pouchette, $295 at Mignon Faget (3801 Magazine St., 504-891-2005; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504835-2244; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504-524-2973, www. mignonfaget.com).

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M. GOLDBERG FALL FASHION EVENTS CUSTOM CLOTHING WEEK NOW THROUGH SATURDAY, OCTOBER 18TH

DISCOUNTS ON ALL CUSTOM ORDERS

Custom Shirtmakers FRIDAY & SATURDAY, OCTOBER 17 TH & 18TH Measure Up Custom Shirts for Men & Women Samuelsohn Clothing Trunk Show Alden Shoe Trunk Show

BARBOUR & BILLS KHAKIS TRUNK SHOWS FRIDAY & SATURDAY, OCTOBER 24TH & 25TH

MEN, WOMEN & CHILDREN

BARBOUR, BILLS KHAKIS, BURGERS & BEER SATURDAY, OCTOBER 25TH 502 Leontine at Tchoupitoulas - Uptown Monday – Saturday • 10am – 6pm 504.891.1119 • mgoldbergclothier.com 22

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dress stores 2048 MAGAZINE ST. 537 ROYAL ST.

DOWNTOWN

831 CHARTRES ST.

UPTOWN

2044 MAGAZINE ST.

504.299.3939

WWW.TRASHYDIVA.COM

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SWAP BOUTIQUE has every designer label you can think of, in one little shop.

Including: Gucci, Cynthia Steffe, Theory, Rebecca Taylor, Marc Jacobs, Chloe.

Great deals.

Every day.

clothes • bags • accessories

visit us to shop or consign 3 Locations

7716 maple street, 115 metairie road and 5530A magazine street 504.304.6025 • swapboutique.com

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THEN AND NOW Shot at the New Orleans Lakefront Airport, these mod-inspired fashions incorporate the best of then, now and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to come.

P H O T O G R A P H Y

B Y

G R E G

M I L E S

|

S T Y L I N G

B Y

A L G

S T Y L E

Top, $415, pants, $235, booties, $980, all at Mimi; earrings, $18 at Retro Active Vintage; gold ring, $275 at Emmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; fur collar, $599 at Yvonne LaFleur.

(Previous page) Leopard coat, $80, green suitcase, $75, green train case, $60, cheetah hat, $150, all at Retro Active Vintage; pearl earrings by Lulu Frost, $250, shoes, $295, both at Angelique; skirt, $375, sweater, $460, both at Mimi.

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Dress, $1,250 at Mimi; suede boots, $520 at Emmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; chandelier earrings, $50, and green train case, $60 at Retro Active Vintage; Lucite cuff, $395 at Angelique.

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Dress, $629, Lucite earrings, $245, Lucite bib, $595, all at Angelique; leather jacket, $199 at Yvonne LaFleur; cuff, $690 at Culture Shock; wig, $38 at Fifi Mahonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

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Dress, $2,495, shoes, $795, both at Mimi; earrings, $595 at Angelique; wig, $38 at Fifi Mahonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

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STORE INFORMATION Angelique Boutique (7725 Maple St., 504-866-1092; www.angeliquestores.com) Angelique Shoe (5421 Magazine St., 504-891-8992; www.angeliqueshoe.com) Culture Shock (www.cultureshockstore.com) Emma’s Shoes and Accessories (110 Rosa Ave., 504-407-0668; 3904 Highway 22, Mandeville, 985-778-2200; www.emmasshoes.com) Fifi Mahony’s (934 Royal St., 504-525-4343; www.fifimahonys.com) Mimi (5500 Magazine St., 504-269-6464; www.miminola.com)

Necklace, $65 at Retro Active Vintage; coat, $1,199 at Yvonne LaFleur; earrings, $245, top, $235, at Angelique; wig, $38 at Fifi Mahony’s.

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SHOOT DIRECTOR Missy Wilkinson PHOTOGRAPHY Greg Miles (www.gregmilesphotography.com) STYLING Aime’e Gowland and Corrie Pellerin for ALG Style (www.algstyle.net) STYLING ASSISTANTS Courtney C. Jones and Jill Plotkin HAIR AND MAKEUP Nehaya Yatak and Andrea Valle for Hair Loft (5300 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-895-2911; www.hairloftnola.com)

Retro Active Vintage (8123 Oak St., 504-864-8154; www.retroactivevintage.com)

MODEL Alli Bonner for John Robert Powers (2309 N. Hullen St., Metairie, 504299-0090; www.jrpneworleans.com)

Yvonne LaFleur (8131 Hampson St., 504-866-9666; www.yvonnelafleur.com)

PHOTO ASSISTANTS Glenn Mosley and Claire Quinn

Special thanks to Jennifer Bonner. Thanks also to Messina’s at the Terminal, Kristin Casey and the staff at the New Orleans Lakefront Airport (6001 Stars and Stripes Blvd., 504-2434010; www.lakefrontairport.com) for hosting our photo shoot.

tomorrow exchange buy * sell*trade

3312 Magazine St. • 504-891-7443

BuffaloExchange.com

HANDMADE IN NOLA

SPORT SHIRTS T-SHIRTS B E LT S & C A P S FISHING WEAR NECKWEAR

5 5 0 9 M AG A Z I N E S T R E E T | O P E N DA I LY W W W. P E L I C A N C O A S T C L O T H I N G . C O M

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Safetydance B Y

CO R E Y I E L

CUE K I D S

SHOPPING

E L L I S

HELP TRICK-OR-TREATERS HAVE FUN AND STAY SAFE WITH REFLECTIVE OR GLOWING HALLOWEEN COSTUMES AND ID TATTOOS. Kids can keep themselves and others safe with a glow-in-the-dark cape, $22 at Pop City.

A reflective Medusa cap stands out at night, $31.99 at Pop Pop City (940 Decatur St., 504-528-8559; 3118 Magazine St., 504-895-4102; www.funrockn.com).

Before they head out, apply SafetyTat ID to your children to help them find their way home if they are separated from you, $10.99 at Zuka Baby (2122 Magazine St., 504-596-6540; www.zukababy.com).

A construction costume has reflective strips, ensuring your little one a safe night, $39.99 at The Magic Box (5508 Magazine St., 504-899-0117; www.magic boxnewor leans.com).

Antique Cypress Doors Shutters & Hardware Custom Doors Antique Bricks Millwork Ironwork Stained Glass Knobs, Locks & Hinges

WORKING TO PRESERVE NEW ORLEANS’

ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE

NEW ORLEANS

511 N. Solomon St.

504.488.5524 RiccasArchitecturalSales.com

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Cut from a different cloth

FEATURE

FASHION

A FASHION INDUSTRY VETERAN HAS A NEW TEXTILE DESIGN CLIENT: HERSELF.

BY MISSY WILKINSON

A

large-scale installation of inverted umbrellas and fabric swaths in the Contemporary Art Center, fashions by a Project Runway alum, and a pop-up boutique on St. Claude Avenue might not seem similar. But their common threads are exactly that — custom-printed textiles by Camilla Franklin, owner of Blissett Textile (www.blissetttextile.com). While the prints may be overshadowed by the projects, Franklin says that’s one reason she loves textiles.

“We’re surrounded by textiles,” Franklin says. “But one really doesn’t think about the fabric for the most part. You think about the garment, or the couch, or the pillow, but not what went into it or what created it. … But I’ve always been textile nuts. I just love it.”

The Oxford, England native studied fashion and textile design at Middlesex University and Edinburgh University’s Scottish College of Textiles. She worked at textile mills in Scotland, England and New York before moving to New Orleans in 1996 to work for a local textile company. When that business folded in 2009, Franklin knew she didn’t want to move again.

“I love New Orleans,” she says. “I wanted to stay here.”

In 2012, Franklin launched Blissett Textile, a custom printing company she runs from a rustic workshop she and her boyfriend built in their banana-tree studded backyard.

She and her two employees print custom fabrics for accessories, garments, upholstery, art installations — “pretty much everything you can use a textile in,” Franklin says.

At any given time, she’ll have as many as 50 clients nationwide.

Recent projects include kerchiefs digitally printed with maps of urban transit systems for Few & Far

Company and garments for local clothing line Hunt Collective. All of her textiles are made of natural fibers and printed with eco-friendly pigment ink.

“We do sampling for [everyone from] large New York design companies who sell interior fabrics across the world to startups ... doing pillows or scarves,” Franklin says. “And maybe graphic designers who want to put their imagery on an accessory or something like that.”

Franklin also has branched out beyond business-to-business printing.

She recently developed her own designs and products, which she says is what she always wanted to do.

“We’ve got a New Orleans-inspired collection based on realistic images, some abstract, painterly collections, which are very ontrend right now in both home and fashion, and a botanical collection using photorealistic images,” she says.

Designs range from Holy Cross steamboat houses to abstract images of cockroaches. Because Franklin is not aiming at the mass market, she can be more adventurous with her designs.

“Our designs are a little bit more edgy because we’re not having to sell millions of them,” she says. “And a little bit more fun, I would say.”

Franklin credits the blossoming New Orleans fashion scene for creating an environment that allows her business to flourish.

“There’s such a big resurgence of textiles and fashion in town,” she says. “I think the fashion shows have really had a big impact and created a buzz.”

“Some of our fashion designers ask us, ‘Don’t tell everyone you’re my source, because then everyone is going to use you,’” says Katie

(Above) Blisset Textile owner Camilla Franklin with some her designs.

PHOTO BY MISSY WILKINSON

(Center) Blissett Textile printed the quirky animal head fabric for Hunt Collective. PHOTO BY AMY MARTIN (Bottom) Blissett Textile products consist of eco-friendly pigment ink on natural fibers.

PHOTO BY MISSY WILKINSON

Murphy, marketing manager and textile designer at Blissett.

Studio manager and textile designer Jeanne Marquez is helping coordinate Blissett’s first pop-up shop at Bywater Art Gallery (3700 St. Claude Ave., www.bywaterartgallery.com), which runs through October. Blissett Textiles was one of 10 businesses selected to be part of the retail project funded by the Greater New Orleans Foundation. It shares the gallery space with Frontier (www.facebook.com/ ournewfrontier), a collection of local designers.

“We’re doing everything from home to fashion, so we’ve got accessories, garments, scarves, table runners, tea towel, aprons, pillows — quite a wide range,” Franklin says. “It’s been exciting.”

Franklin says juggling her own design development with client’s orders has been a challenge. She and her employees work on their products evenings and weekends.

Fortunately, they all love what they do.

“Having the opportunity to design something, print it out and have it tangibly right there in front of you — it’s so exciting,” Murphy says. “You have no limitation and you’re really able to express yourself.”

“In some ways,” Franklin says, “the hardest thing is knowing when to stop.”

Bywater Art Gallery (3700 St. Claude Ave.) hosts Blissett Textile’s pop-up shop through October.

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LUSTERPHILE

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WITH HUES RANGING FROM MINK TO AUBERGINE, FALL LIPSTICKS ARE OPULENT AND DEEP. B Y

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ifi Mahony’s (934 Royal St., 504-525-4343; www. fifimahonys.com) makeup artist Lex Cie says fall is a time when people want to update their looks. A swipe of lipstick in a bold new hue is a quick, affordable way to accomplish this. “Browns are making a comeback, as well as purples,” Cie says. “Deep purples, black and dark lipsticks look sophisticated.”

Wear these shades in a matte formulation to avoid looking costume-y, Cie says. And if you’re hesitant to break out the black lipstick, just remember this benefit: “It makes your teeth look whiter,” she says.

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Tom Ford lipstick in Deep Mink, $50 at Saks Fifth Avenue (The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504-524-2200; www. saksfifthavenue.com).

Bobbi Brown matte lipstick in smoky nude, $26 at Macy’s (Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 504-484-4600; www.lakeside shopping.com).

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Limited-edition Aveda lipstick in Gogi Berry, $16 at Paris Parker salons (citywide; www.parisparker.com).

Estee Lauder lipstick in Envious, $30 at Estee Lauder (Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 504-8331075; www.lakesideshopping.com).

Ben Nye lipstick in Twilight, $12 at Fifi Mahony’s.

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Lilah Jurgens’ intaglios are modern interpretations of classical techniques. Photo by Cheryl Gerber

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ative New Orleanian Lilah Jurgens grew up surrounded by the city’s history and rich interior design. Today, as owner and designer of Portico Aesthetics (www. porticoaesthetics.com), she employs passions for both when creating framed, hand-cast plaster intaglios as well as barware adorned with intaglios etched or stamped on metal. The former is sold exclusively through Bremermann Designs (3943 Magazine St., 504891-7763; www.bremermanndesigns.com) and select pieces of the latter will be available at Friend & Company (7713 Maple St., 504-8665433; www.friendandcompany.com) this fall.

Intaglios are reliefs made by cutting, carving or engraving a flat surface and then making plaster molds. They are

typically associated with classical Roman-Greco motifs appreciated for their timeless beauty.

But Jurgens reinterprets hers with a modern aesthetic.

Inspired by a collection of Mardi Gras doubloons (including the original Rex doubloon produced in 1960) she inherited from her grandmother, Jurgens taught herself the craft of intaglio making. She also uses antique porcelain and a cache of rare 19th-century coins depicting the French Monarchy for her re-imagined treasures.

“I started collecting English porcelain, but the pieces themselves were really dated,” says Jurgens, whose delicate finds are usually shades of blue or terra cotta. “I tried to imagine what they would look like in white porcelain or plaster and on a larger scale.”

Jurgens’ framed intaglios are mounted against a variety of marble, agate and watercolor papers, all imported from Europe and hand-painted. The frames are gold or silver

leaf. The barware includes acrylic designs — highball and lowball glasses, an ice bucket, decanters and threepiece shakers — as well as silver-plated mint julep cups.

“The barware was a way to offer the same quality but at lower prices,” she says. “New Orleans has a great mixology culture, and I thought it was a great way to celebrate that.”

For Mardi Gras 2015, a set of lowball glasses with bronze intaglios featuring the original 1960 Rex doubloon will be available to Rex members.

“Our work is done with one goal in mind: to reinvigorate traditional design,” Jurgens says.

— LEE CUTRONE

Style

profile N

ew Orleans designer and writer Andi Eaton interprets the Crescent City’s modern-day fashions through the lens of history in her new book, New Orleans Style (History Press).

Eaton shows how the melding of French, Spanish, African, Caribbean and other cultures established the unique styles we see on the streets today. Like its architecture, New Orleans’ fashion represents an evolution based in necessity and artistic expression.

Inspired by the city and its people, Eaton sees fashion as “part of the celebration.” Landmark retailer Rubensteins remains a staple for men in New Orle-

CUE T I P S ans, as do three-piece suits, standard dress for early jazz musicians. The evolution of women’s fashion is on display from local labels like Jolie & Elizabeth, whose seersucker frocks are a natural fit for the Southern climate.

While not discounting the dark side of New Orleans history, Eaton celebrates the contributions of all players ranging from debutantes to streetwalkers and slaves to Cajuns. Eaton makes it clear New Orleans is a place where styles past and present collide in a beautiful mix of color, function and creativity.

The author includes vivid images and interviews with industry leaders.

The design and layout of New Orleans Style appear as thoughtfully curated as the material on its pages. Part travel guide, part history text, part fashion magazine, this book can be enjoyed by simply flipping through the pages or sitting down for a more in-depth read.

— ANDREA BLUMENSTEIN

SHOPPING

Sincerely Luxe (2240 Magazine St., Ste. 102, 504-2729004; www.facebook.com/ sincerelyluxe) hosts a book signing from noon to 4 p.m.

Saturday, Oct. 18.

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PERSPECTIVES

PHOTOS BY CHERYL GERBER

Dottie

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SHOP DOGS

he resident shop dog at Tooth & Nail Co. (3952 Magazine St., 504-373-8180; www. toothandnailtrading.com) is a mutt, but owner Holly Williams prefers to call her a “Mississippi black dog.” Dottie accompanies Williams to Tooth & Nail almost every day.

“She was a rescue,” Williams says. “I’ve had her for five years. She was a year and a half [old] when I got her. … Some days I do the Frenchmen Art Market straight after here, so I won’t bring her if it’s too hot. During the summer, it’s a long work day for a dog with a fur coat.”

At home, Dottie shares the attention with Ringo and Rosie, two baby goats. “Dottie thinks she’s their mom,” Williams says. “She’s just taken to them. I’ll tell her, ‘Dottie, where are your babies?’ and she’ll … push on the door to their pen. She just runs around and licks them and plays with them all day.”

Williams describes Tooth & Nail’s aesthetic as earthy meets industrial. The shop carries a mix of works by local and national artists. All items are handmade, down to the store’s furniture.

Williams and co-owner Krista DeJoseph keep

My

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Playing with my “kids” Driving across Lake Pontchartrain Greeting customers at the shop My bandanna Modeling for Tooth & Nail Co.’s Facebook page the focus on jewelry, but there is a wide variety of merchandise including hand-printed kitchen towels from Betsy Olmsted, pewter housewares from Beehive, bloody mary seasoning from Whodini Sisters and greeting cards from New Orleans’ Lionheart Prints.

“A lot of stores carry the same things, so we want a fresh assortment of things that people haven’t seen,” Williams says.

Williams says opening a brick-and-mortar store was never a goal for her, but DeJoseph helped change her mind. The women were making the local art market circuit with their jewelry businesses — Williams owns Small Change Finery and DeJoseph owns Queens Metal — when DeJoseph approached Williams about opening a shop.

“Krista said, ‘I found this space. What do you think about opening a store?’” Williams says. “I was like ‘Nah.’ She said, ‘Well, do you want to be traveling market to market pulling bins and loading in and loading out the rest of your life?’”

Williams realized it made financial sense to open a shop. But Williams isn’t planning on quitting the markets anytime soon.

“I don’t think I’ll ever not do markets,” she says.

Shortly after she and DeJoseph opened the store, Williams bought a converted barn on 3 acres of land in Ponchatoula. “It’s awesome,” she says. “It’s just what I needed in my downtime.”

Williams has a home studio and is acquiring a second set of tools to create a full-fledged studio in the shop as well. “The nice thing about that is when I’m here, I’m forced to work,” she says. “Making jewelry at your own pace can be hard, especially at home when you’ve got cute, fuzzy animals running around.”

Williams finds the daily commute from her barn cathartic.

“It’s beautiful, watching the sunset over the Causeway,” she says.

Dottie seems to enjoy the ride, too.

“She sees me leaving and she’s like ‘Going to work?’” Williams says. “She loves the car ride.

She knows when we’re getting close. We get off the highway and go down the slower streets, and she’ll start looking out the window and start going ‘Oh, we’re almost there!’”

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