Gambit: December 22, 2020 by Gambit New Orleans

December 22-28 2020 Volume 41 Number 49

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DEC. 22 — 28, 2020 VOLUME 41 | NUMBER 49 NEWS

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Gambit (ISSN 1089-3520) is published weekly by Capital City Press, LLC, 840 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130. (504) 4865900. We cannot be held responsible for the return of unsolicited manuscripts even if accompanied by a SASE. All material published in Gambit is copyrighted: Copyright 2020 Capital City Press, LLC. All rights reserved.

Right place, right tone

‘Tis the season THE NEW ORLEANS CENTER FOR CREATIVE ARTS has adapted its annual Home for the Holidays benefit concert into a streaming event. The holiday-themed concert will feature recorded performances by Jon Batiste, Irma Thomas, Preservation Hall Jazz Band, John Boutte and Kermit Ruffins & the BBQ Swingers along with appearances by Drew Brees, Hillary Spriggins and Phillip Youmans. Actor Gralen Banks will emcee. The concert streams at givenocca.com at 8 p.m. Tuesday, Dec. 22, and will be re-broadcast on WDSU-TV at 10:30 p.m. Thursday, Dec. 24, and 11 a.m. Christmas Day. A silent auction also is ongoing through 2 p.m. Friday. Proceeds from the concert and auction benefit NOCCA’s Daniel Price Memorial Fund for Aspiring Artists.

Bad Operation starts a New Tone in ska music BY JAKE CLAPP BAD OPERATION BELIEVES IN THE JOYOUS RETALIATION OF SKA.

The New Orleans band released its debut, self-titled album last week on Community Records and ska punk label Bad Time Records. It’s a tight 10 tracks of energetic ska music with a punk ethos and edge. “The point of this music is for people to hopefully enjoy themselves and dance,” says Greg Rodrigue, Bad Operation’s bassist and backing vocalist. “Our hearts and our minds are feeling joy and feel free in the style.” That joy, though, acts as a release, a defiance in the face of injustice. Bad Operation carries messages of personal accountability and growth and rallying calls for urgent social action in its music — packaged in communal, sweaty fun songs. “The strongest ska band has a message behind it,” says trombonist and keyboardist Daniel Ray. Along with Ray and Rodrigue, Bad Operation is drummer Rob Landry, vocalist and guitarist Dominic Minix and guitarist and backing vocalist Brian Pretus. All are well-traveled musicians in New Orleans’ indie rock and punk communities: Ray and Rodrigue co-founded and run Community Records, and with Landry make up 3/4 of the band All People; Minix leads the Dominic Minix Quartet and Yung vul — and released the EP, “Sun Will Show Again,” in July — and Pretus is guitarist-vocalist for hardcore punk band PEARS, which also released a full-length earlier this year. In the mid- and late-aughts, Ray and Rodrigue were part of the sixpiece ska-core group Fatter Than Albert, and Community Records has produced records for other DIY ska punk-influenced groups, like A Billion Ernies, Murphy’s Kids and Stuck Lucky. A deep love for ska and knowledge of the genre’s history abides in Bad Operation. The band, Rodrigue says, started out with the simple desire to just get back to the fun of the genre and play a ska show. Landry, Rodrigue and Pretus perform together as the poppunk band The Rooks and Ray would occasionally join in on trombone and

Stocking stuffer

organ. When together for a practice, they’d pull out ska material. In December 2019, the group had a practice or two and asked Minix to join as a vocalist. The goal was to play a show in March 2020 — but, of course, the coronavirus pandemic redefined everything this year. “Before the pandemic, our only ambition was to play a show and release a record if we could,” Minix says. “After the pandemic hit, though, we couldn’t play live anymore. But we still had this energy and still had this suspicion there was something special about this band. So we started to devote that energy into recording. The response has been more than we had expected.” In run-up to the release of the full-length last week, Bad Operation released music videos for four singles — the songs “Perilous,” “Bagel Rooks,” “Kinda Together” and “Brain” — shot in black and white by New Orleans filmmakers Zac Manuel and Mitch Wells. There’s a clear — and openly admitted — admiration for English ska band The Specials in Bad Operation’s aesthetics. In the 1980s, the band was a key part of the Two-Tone wave of ska music, an era in the genre when the Jamaican-rooted music blended with UK punk and pointedly talked about the social issues of the time. Bad Operation takes direct influence from Two-Tone, then further adapts the genre and strives to make something completely unique and forward-looking in ska. Bad Operation calls it New Tone.

P H OTO P R OV I D E D B Y D U R A D O B R O O K S

Bad Operation is, from left, Brian Pretus, Rob Landry, Dominic Minix, Greg Rodrigue and Daniel Ray.

“We are harkening back a lot to [Two-Tone] because that was very much a musical and political movement,” Ray says. “For us New Tone is what Bad Operation sounds like, but there really is no sonic definition of New Tone. There is this understanding for us, though — we’re going to be outspoken about our politics and standing up against any sort of racism or subjugation. It’s creating a ‘new tone’ in how we talk about human rights and politics in the realm of music.” “It’s keeping that easy, joyous, go-with-the-flow mentality, but also being serious about what we stand for within the music,” Landry adds. “The idea of New Tone is bringing it back to a place where it meant a lot politically. The music was defined not only by its fun but also by what it was saying.” That New Tone is made for a modern workers’ movement and the unique fights for justice in New Orleans. “We’re part of the Musicians’ Alliance, that’s a product of the workers’ movement happening here,” Minix says. “And I think part of DIY work is creating equity work for artists, we talk about that in our music. Bad Operation represents a workers’ ethic. We’re in a time of revolution and our music is a product of that energy.” Bad Operation’s new, self-titled album can be found at communityrecords.org and badtimerecords.com.

TRIXIE MINX’S HOLIDAY BURLESQUE features a mix of naughty and nice acts as well as her risqué dreidel routine and a stripping Santa. The Minx Burlesque Holiday Spectacular is a virtual event from d.b.a. at 8 p.m. Tuesday, Dec. 22. Visit stageit.com/dbaLIVE for tickets and viewing links.

P H OTO P R OV I D E D B Y L U C I U S L . R I L E Y

Fresh trimmings SOUTHERN REP THEATRE CONTINUES THE POP-UP, its recently debuted streaming series of new 10-minute plays and music, at 7:30 p.m. Wednesday, Dec. 23. The event will feature readings of new plays by Emma Schillage, Cam Blackwell and Mary Langley and a performance by Claudia Baumgarten. Tickets are $8 via eventbrite.com or southernrep.com.

Eight below VIRTUAL DRAG FESTIVAL CYBER DISTANCING WILL WARM YOU UP with its eighth edition at 8 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 26, and Sunday, Dec. 27. The fest features drag and burlesque performers Apostrophe, Anjle, Choriza May, Grand Maw, Kitten N’ Lou, Qween Quan and more. Laveau Contraire and Tarah Cards return to host. Tickets are $15 for one night or $20 for both via eventbrite.com.

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N E W

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N E W S

V I E W S

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, y’all!

# The Count

Thumbs Up/ Thumbs Down

4.75

Jason Goodenough, the

owner of Carrolton Market, isn’t having any racism in his restaurant. Responding to a complaint that a BLM poster he had displayed was “offensive” and “Marxist,” Goodenough said on social media he would donate the customer’s lifetime order history to BLM-aligned groups and match any additional donations “in the true spirit of Karl Marx.” So far he’s raised more than $2,000.

The percentage of COVID-19 tests, conducted Dec. 3-9, that yielded positive results in Orleans Parish.

P H OTO B Y H I L A R Y S C H E I N U K / T H E A DVO C AT E

Thousands of health care workers across the state have already received the first dose of a two-part COVID-19 vaccine.

FIRST COVID-19 VACCINES ROLL OUT Culture Aid NOLA has

added 70,000 pounds of food a week to send to regional food programs operated by organizations City Council. The renamed Faubourg Brewing Co. is also offering loading docks where boxes of food can be packaged and shipped. The commitment comes after a partnership with Natco Food Service as part of the USDA “Farmers to Families Food Box” program, in which Natco is providing the USDA boxes that Culture Aid distributes.

THE DAY HAS FINALLY COME . Thousands of Louisiana health care workers, including top health officials, received their first dose of the COVID-19 vaccine last week. New Orleans Health Department Director Dr. Jennifer Avegno and interim Assistant Secretary of the Office of Public Health Dr. Joe Kanter were among the first to get doses. They will have to return for a second dose around three weeks after they received the first. The first batch of vaccines comes from Pfizer. Last week the FDA panel recommended a second vaccine by Moderna Inc., moving it one step closer to approval and distribution. According to The Times-Picayune | New Orleans Advocate, the state expects to receive 79,000 doses of the vaccine by the end of the year, including 49,000 this week. The first round of vaccines will go to frontline hospital workers and residents and staff of nursing homes and other long term care facilities. Gov. John Bel Edwards said people should continue to wear masks even after getting the vaccine. — KAYLEE POCHE

Clay’s Gonna Play MacKenzie Scott will donate

$5 million dollars to Dillard University, the largest single gift the historically Black university has received from an individual. Scott, a novelist and the world’s wealthiest woman, is donating around $17 billion to various causes as part of the Giving Pledge, which encourages signees to donate half of their wealth during their lifetimes. Scott was formerly married to Amazon CEO Jeff Bezos, who has not made that philanthropic commitment.

Louisiana House Speaker Clay Schexnayder, R-Gonzales, hosted a holiday gathering in Baton Rouge on Dec. 17, open to all 105 representatives and their spouses, despite statewide restrictions that limit large gatherings as health officials struggle to control the statewide surge of COVID-19. It is unclear how well attended the event was. The Louisiana Illuminator’s Julie O’Donoghue reported that Schexnayder circulated invitations early last week for an open-house soiree, held outside, where guests would be treated to alcoholic beverages and gumbo for the second time in a day. (The Capitol also served gumbo for lunch, encouraging officials to pick it up “to go” and bring it back to their desks.) Gov. John Bel Edwards, meanwhile, has urged all Louisianans, lawmakers included, to stick with their immediate household members and avoid all gatherings and traveling this holiday season, as part of his modified Phase 2 reopening plan, which will be in effect until at least Dec. 23. O’Donoghue reported that Edwards also specifically told state agencies to refrain from having office parties, potlucks or luncheons this year. PAGE 9

The Louisiana Department of Health reported that 5.2% tests conducted between Nov. 26 and Dec. 2 in Orleans Parish came back positive. Had this number stayed or increased the following week, bars would have been forced to shut down indoor service. (Statewide COVID-19 restrictions require bars to halt indoor service if the parish is at 5% or above for two weeks in a row.) But the positivity rate for tests administered the following week — a critical time period that determined whether new restrictions would need to go into effect — decreased just enough to get below the threshold of 5%. Orleans is now the only parish in the state with a positive test rate below 5%.

C’est What

? Who plays the best movie Santa?

16.3%

BILLY BOB THORNTON IN “BAD SANTA”

17.5%

THAT GUY WHO SAYS “YOU’LL SHOOT YOUR EYE OUT, KID!” IN “A CHRISTMAS STORY”

17.4%

TIM ALLEN IN “THE SANTA CLAUSE”

48.8%

EDMUND GWENN IN “MIRACLE ON 34TH STREET”

Vote on “C’est What?” at www.bestofneworleans.com

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OPENING GAMBIT Schexnayder’s office said the party was not an attempt to undermine the governor’s orders, but it raises eyebrows especially given that Republican lawmakers have flouted public health guidance and battled Edwards repeatedly in losing court battles, seeking to strip his executive emergency powers. Read more at the lailluminator.org.

area, sparking backlash from prisoners’ rights advocates. Cao described it as a dark, rodentinfested “dungeon” covered in black mold — which can exacerbate a respiratory virus — along with spider webs and brown water dripping from rusted faucets. He said he questioned if he would make it out alive. — SARAH RAVITS

Prison reform group reignites fight against statewide facilities in new report

Times-Picayune and WWL-TV investigate cover-up of pedophile New Orleans clergyman George Brignac

The Promise of Justice Initiative is accusing state and federal officials of putting the lives of thousands of Louisiana prisoners at risk during the COVID-19 pandemic in a new report released Dec. 14, alleging they hid information from the public and failed to implement mitigation measures recommended by health officials. PJI’s report claims the state’s Department of Public Safety & Corrections mishandled testing supplies and engaged in other widespread misconduct that has resulted in increased infection rates and preventable deaths in Louisiana — which already has one of the highest prison mortality rates in the country. So far, at least 31 state inmates and five staffers have died in state prisons from the virus. Department of Public Safety & Corrections spokesman Ken Pastorick told Gambit that his office was “blindsided” by the almost 70-page report, which he said echoed statements previously made in a class action lawsuit filed by PJI with the Southern Poverty Law Center that was dismissed in May by federal judge Shelly Dick, who praised the DOC for its safety measures. In the lawsuit, the groups had demanded the corrections department halt the usage of a previously shuttered, restrictive housing unit at Angola penitentiary — known as Camp J — as a makeshift recovery facility for COVID patients. Pastorick provided a handful of letters from inmates thanking staffers for taking safety measures. He also said more than 21,000 tests have been administered among more than 7,000 inmates and that the department is in compliance with state and federal guidelines. But the report paints a bleak picture of life behind bars during a pandemic. Former state prisoner Calvin Cao described his struggles to recover from the virus in Camp J. Cao, who has since been pardoned and released by Gov. John Bel Edwards, spent 37 days inside the unit once deemed so derelict that officials, prisoners and advocacy groups alike celebrated its closure in 2018. The department reopened the facility this past spring to serve as a COVID-19 isolation unit and recovery

A three-part investigation by The Times-Picayune | New Orleans Advocate’s Ramon Vargas and WWLTV’s David Hammer details decades of sexual abuse by New Orleans clergyman George Brignac, who died this summer, in their “Monster in our midst” series. The series is a deep dive into Brignac’s abuse and a look into how he was able to stay in the Catholic Church — around children — for so long. Expelled from a Catholic religious order by 1960, Brignac went on to become a deacon in the clergy in 1976. The Orleans Parish district attorney’s office recently released a file containing more than 10,000 pages of information on Brignac. The file was compiled by prosecutors preparing to bring him to trial. Those prosecutors found he may have molested at least 11 children by 1976. Before the church finally expelled him from the ministry in 1988, he sexually abused 15 more. Even after that, Brignac stayed in town and joined a Catholic community service group in the area. He went onto begin reading Scripture at masses at St. Mary Magdalen, a Metairie church, for nine years starting in 2009, though the pastor knew he had molested children. The lengthy file also details extensive measures taken by the Catholic Church and its lawyers to keep Brignac’s history of abuse quiet, including demands that a $100,000 out-of-court settlement paid to one of his victims remain confidential, even after the church pledged to be more transparent over its handling of abusive priests back in 2002. Read more at nola.com Editor’s Note: This week’s cover story is a tribute to the great Fred Parker, aka the legendary 7th Ward Santa. For more than four decades, Mr. Parker was a beacon of love, hope and happiness, and we are proud to present this story by Ravien Iris Burns, a local high school student. We are publishing her work through a partnership with JRNOLA, a nonprofit group in town helping teach and support the next generation of journalists like Ravien. Please visit them at jrnola. org and make a donation to help support youth journalism.

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COMMENTARY

By any measure, City Council must say ‘No’ to Folgers

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whether it’s voters deciding who will hold public office or elected officials weighing consequential policy matters. Often those decisions are made based on timing, number crunching or optics. But the most important factor, which should always override any other consideration is, of course, “What’s best for the common good?” Often these factors conflict. But no matter P H OTO B Y M A X B EC H ERER / T H E T I M E S what metric one applies P I C AY U N E | T H E N E W O R L E A N S A DVO C AT E to the City Council’s Folgers plant at 5500 Chef Menteur Highway impending decision on Folger Coffee Co.’s service in 2021 because of the virus, request for a 10-year, multi-milliondollar tax break, the answer always and virtually every department is comes back a resounding “No.” facing deep cuts. City workers will be Folgers seeks a total of six tax furloughed. It beggars belief that one breaks from all taxing agencies in could conjure a worse set of optics, New Orleans under a decades-old or a worse time, to give a multi-bilcorporate welfare scheme known lion-dollar, publicly traded corporaas the Industrial Tax Exemption tion a multi-million-dollar tax break. Program (ITEP). Over the years, the But at a more fundamental level, the state has let scores of big industries plan makes no sense when weighed withhold billions in property taxes against the common good — a moral from cities, parishes, school boards position bore out in the numbers. and other local agencies, effectively Specifically, the number of jobs starving vital local services. Folgers can tie to the $25 million in The justification for ITEP, one of requested tax relief over the next 10 America’s most generous state years. Folgers admits that only 27 giveaways, is that it creates jobs. jobs will flow from the tax breaks, But decades of lived experience and which is far below standards recently countless studies make clear that imposed by the city. That’s it: 27 jobs trickle down economic programs like in exchange for millions in tax breaks ITEP create few jobs while putting that will make individuals and small billions back in the coffers of corbusinesses bear a significantly greater porate interests. For years, busishare of the cost of vital local services. ness and industry lobbyists loudly That alone should be enough to protest — and squelch — any effort convince City Council members to to rein in this welfare program, even deny Folgers’ requests. proposals to tie their exemptions to Unfortunately, only three council job creation. Fortunately, Gov. John members — Helena Moreno, Jason Bel Edwards used an executive order Williams and Joe Giarrusso — voted to give local governments a say on to deny all of Folgers’ requests. The these sorts of tax breaks, which is other four council members agreed why the City Council and Orleans to reject two of them, but they Parish School Board, among others, postponed a decision on the other have a chance to stop them. four until Jan. 14, which is after the The school board has already date Williams will take office as New weighed in by rejecting all six of Folgers’ requests. The question should Orleans’ new district attorney — and quite possibly before the council can be an easy one for City Council. appoint an interim successor. From a purely political position, There’s no legitimate argument for the optics of approving a multi-bilthis tax giveaway, and the council lion corporate tax break during the should follow the lead of the school COVID-19 pandemic are terrible. City board and vote them down. Hall is being forced to reduce basic

CLANCY DUBOS @clancygambit

SPOIL THEM

Everybody stay safe — a cautionary tale and a Christmas wish

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practiced social distancing, we avoided crowds. And yet, we all got COVID-19 — my wife, my two sons and me. We’re all fine now, but even my “moderate” case scared the life out of me. This is a cautionary tale, and a plea for help — not for my family and me, but for you and your families. If you’ve had Covid, you know that it’s often worse than imagined and far more contagious than many believe. I’m sharing my experience in the hope that it will convince even one reader to be more careful. Hopefully, many more than that will heed me. I’ve never been a big risk-taker, so I took the pandemic seriously from Day One. I didn’t retreat into a cave, but I did follow the CDC recommendations. I began a strict regimen of vitamins and supplements in March and have been in excellent health for years. Having worked at home since 2008, the stay-at-home orders were no big deal for me. Despite all our precautions, my family and I still got Covid after exposure on Nov. 20. Luckily, one of my sons was asymptomatic and my other son had very mild symptoms. Margo had a slightly tougher time, and I had it worst of all. We had long ago canceled our Thanksgiving plans, yet when we got our PCR test results the day after Thanksgiving the news hit all of us hard. For me, things took a quick turn for the worst the week after Thanksgiving. Without going into gory details, I had something far worse than the flu. I have never felt so sick in my life, and I’ve had my

P H OTO B Y A P P H OTO/J O H N LO C H ER

Be like Santa! Mask up to protect yourself, Mrs. Claus and the elves this holiday season!

share of awful illnesses (including spinal meningitis as a child). For at least three days, I seriously contemplated the possibility that I would not recover. Thanks to the prayers of friends and a timely middle-of-the-night delivery of medicine (for nausea) from a doctor friend, I started getting better by the end of Week 2. I still made a trip to the ER for a chest X-ray (to confirm viral pneumonia), but by the end of the first week of December I had turned the corner. As I write this I feel “normal” again — I even got my tastebuds and sense of smell back. As horrible as I felt during the worst days, I consider myself lucky. I have friends who had to be hospitalized, and some who died. So here’s the lesson: Don’t let anybody tell you Covid is no worse than the flu. I’ve had both diseases, and Covid is much, much worse. And here’s the plea for help: Please keep (or start, if you’re not already) wearing a mask and practicing social distancing. It’s going to take months for the vaccines to get this thing under control, so don’t let your guard down, not even for a minute. You don’t want what I had — and I had it easy. Please do those things, because what I really want for Christmas is for all to have a joyful, blessed — and safe — holiday season and a healthy 2021.

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BLAKE PONTCHARTRAIN™ Hey Blake,

I read your article about the Top of the Mart (Nov. 16). In the 1980s, when I was a kid, I remember going to two other rooftop restaurants. I think one was called Rain Tree Café and the other (which also rotated) was called Top of the Dome? What can you tell me about them? — BLAKE G.

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The two restaurants you remember both offered spectacular views of the city, just like Top of the Mart. Rainforest was the name of the restaurant and club located at the top of the Hilton New Orleans Riverside hotel, which opened in 1977. It didn’t rotate but offered much in the way of atmosphere. “Decorated to look like a Louisiana bayou, the Rainforest is easily the most interesting rooftop perch in town. Not because of the view, but because of what goes on inside,” wrote The Times-Picayune in 1978. “Thunder roars, lightning flashes and rain pours in a ‘forest area’ at the center of the club. And that’s not all. Fog rolls onto the usually crowded dance floor and crickets taped in a nearby swamp can be heard chirping throughout the club.” Rainforest served lunch and dinner, with disco dancing nightly. In the 1990s, the rooftop spot was renamed Horizons and became a popular live music venue. When the Hyatt Regency Hotel

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T I M E S - P I C AY U N E F I L E P H OTO B Y D O N A L D S TO U T

In this Times-Picayune file photo, two women enjoy a view of the bridge at the Vendome at the Hyatt Regency Hotel.

opened in 1976, it offered a revolving restaurant known as the Vendome. Located on the 32nd floor of the hotel, it offered great views of the Superdome, which had opened one year earlier. By 1981, the restaurant’s name had changed to Top of the Dome. “One of the friendliest establishments around, with nice waitresses and a panoramic view of the city,” is how Gambit described it in 1984. The restaurant, which rotated 360 degrees per hour, was popular for its Sunday brunch buffet and as a popular spot to dine on New Year’s Eve, to watch fireworks over the city. It closed when the Hyatt shut down in 2005 due to heavy damage from Hurricane Katrina. The hotel underwent a $275 million renovation and reopened in 2011.

BLAKEVIEW LAST WEEK IN THIS SPACE , we wrote about the 85th anniversary of an engineering marvel, the Huey P. Long Bridge. This week, we focus on another civil engineering feat, the Bonnet Carre Spillway, which also was completed 85 years ago this month. The spillway was designed and built after the 1927 flood that devastated more than 27,000 square miles of land in the lower Mississippi River valley, displacing 700,000 people. The Flood Control Act of 1928 authorized the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to design projects to prevent such flooding. One of them, the Bonnet Carre Spillway, located 30 miles upriver from New Orleans in St. Charles Parish, was designed to divert Mississippi River water away from the city and into Lake Pontchartrain. Work on the $313 million project began in 1929 and was completed in December 1935. The one and a half mile long concrete structure consists of 350 bays holding 7,000 removable wooden timbers called “needles.” To alleviate river flooding, the needles are raised and lowered by a crane running alongside the structure. The water entering the spillway is then channeled to the lake by guide levees. The Bonnet Carre was first opened in 1937. Since then, it has been opened 14 other times, the most recent being earlier this year.

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COV ER STORY

YES,

NEW ORLEANS THERE IS A

SANTA CLAUS!

AND HIS SPIRIT LIVES ON IN THE SEVENTH WARD. Fred Parker was the Black Santa that many New Orleans children needed. B Y R AV I E N I R I S B U R N S | J R N O L A

PHOTO PROVIDED BY MEGAN BR ADEN-PERRY

EDITOR’S NOTE: Dear parents, please be advised, this story

contains certain spoilers not suitable for anyone smart and wonderful enough to believe in Santa. Merry Christmas!

hen Megan Braden-Perry, 35, was visiting the Gentilly Woods Mall as a child, her mother pointed out where Santa was sitting, greeting other young girls and boys. But something didn’t seem quite right. That Santa Claus was Fred Parker, known best as Seventh Ward Santa or “Chocolate Santa,” who visited malls, churches and schools to bring joy to both kids and adults for 47 years. This Santa looked nothing like the image young Braden-Perry, who is Black, had associated with the jolly bearer of gifts. Sure, he had a beard, a red suit and a smile brimming with cheeks. But she was shocked to see him with a skin tone similar to her own. “I remembered I had only seen white Santa Clauses because that image is basically everywhere,” BradenPerry, a journalist — and former Gambit listings editor and columnist — from the Seventh Ward, says. Feeling as if something had happened to him, BradenPerry recalls that she freaked out, started crying and ran away. But after a couple of more visits, she came to see things the other way around. PAGE 16

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P H O T O S P R O V I D E D B Y L I N I T TA PA R K E R L E W I S

“Any Santa who is not Fred Parker is an imposter,” she says. “It’s not the real thing.” Although Parker passed away in August this year at the age of 78 due to health issues, he lives on in the spirit of Christmas. More importantly: his everyday generosity, mirth and love for those around him made him something of a 365-days-a-year Santa, beloved by New Orleans’ Black community and beyond. This year, Gambit has asked residents to share their memories about “The Real Santa” and what he meant for New Orleans over the years. Parker simply changed the game when it came to representation. To be exact: Black representation in a world of white Santas. Parker was born in Lake, Mississippi, in 1942 as the ninth of what would be 10 children. He served as a speed radio operator in the Army before moving to New Orleans. After the Army, he took on a job as a bus driver for Orleans Parish School Board for 26 years. “I don’t know the best answer for you,” Parker told VICE News Tonight in 2017 when asked how he became Santa. “I never planned this. The one thing I can say is that it’s a gift from heaven. God put me where I need to be.” But Parker’s real Santa origin story is sweeter than a candy cane. In 1971 while driving the school bus, Parker dressed up as Santa and bought his whole bus McDonald’s. After that, he just became Santa more and more each following year. Even after his retirement from bus driving, he wasn’t done working with children just yet. Since that fateful December in 1971, he became Seventh Ward Santa and donned dozens of Santa suits over the years. He struck a tall, smiling figure with his signature cheerful laughter and love for children. A lot of people have fond memories of Parker, but few of them can say that Santa was their dad. Linitta Parker Lewis, Parker’s daughter, speaks with pride and joy about her father. “Knowing that he was my dad, how could I not believe in Santa?” Lewis says. To Lewis, her father was a kind, loving, hard-working man who didn’t play around when it came to education or doing the right thing. He worked two jobs — driving cabs at the same time he drove school buses. She saw him as both a parent and a hero. “It was fun and inspiring,” Lewis says. “I have always believed in Santa

Claus. How could I not say his room was right across the hall?” Lewis, an only child, and her mother would often bake for family and their church group throughout the entire holiday season. They made treats like caramel squares, sweet potato pie, tea cakes and cookies. In a sense, the whole house was Santa’s workshop. “Our home was full of joy and decor around the holidays,” Lewis says. “I love Christmas lights more than anything. The way they sparkle and twinkle, it’s magical.” In certain ways, Lewis’ childhood felt like a fairytale. As a little girl, Lewis explained that she was never one for an extravagant list but it was wonderful to know that whatever she did request was granted. One year, Lewis saw a commercial on TV for a Snoopy Sno-cone Machine and immediately had her heart set on it. She asked her father for it, but sadly didn’t get it that Christmas Day. But this is the daughter of Santa we’re talking about. Somehow Parker managed to find the snow cone maker and gave it to her shortly afterward. That’s who Parker was. He always wanted to do the best he could by honoring any reasonable request from a kid. “Daddy knew he was dying but never let on to anyone else,” Lewis says. “He was his happy jolly self until the end. His death hit me like a ton of bricks.” “Although I saw it coming, it has left a huge hole,” she adds. “We talked every day, sometimes eight times a day. If he thought of something he called. He was my 7 a.m. wakeup call every single day.” Lewis’ mother, Peacola Bateast Parker, was heartbroken when Parker passed away. She lost her best friend, a man who cooked for her every day until he got sick. Peacola herself passed away just shy of three months after Parker. Lewis says it brings her great joy knowing that her parents are dancing together again and watching over her — just like when she was little. This year, Lewis has been baking Santa cookies that look just like Fred in his honor. But the memory of Parker and his fatherly love went beyond his family. Parker etched so many cheerful memories of New Orleans residents into vivid photographs of that jolly old elf aside themselves. Braden-Perry doesn’t remember exactly how old she was when she first ran off crying after seeing Black Santa — and she lost the photos she took with him to Hurricane Katrina

— but she still remembers the emotions she felt whenever she saw him. The second time she saw Parker was when she was in the third grade at McDonogh 39 Elementary School. That year, she was convinced that she was not going to make the nice list. Braden-Perry accidentally burnt her chin with a hot lamp and was embarrassed when he asked what happened. But just when she thought she was doomed for the naughty list, he was kind and understanding, making her feel at ease. Thankfully, Braden-Perry’s son Franklin, now 6, didn’t go through the same anxieties she had gone through. They had a long wait, but Franklin was a lot less intimidated by Parker. “He was the staple of Christmas for everybody in the New Orleans area — especially for Black people”, Cyrus Jones, a 37-year-old naval officer, says. Unfortunately due to Parker’s passing, Jones wasn’t able to get Christmas pictures with his daughter, who is now 2 years old. “I knew it was inevitable that his time was going to expire,” he says. “We all were waiting for that opportunity to have children get that one last round of photos.” Antoine Banks was 10 years old when Parker visited his class at Lawrence D. Crocker Elementary School in 1989. He was particularly impressed by how Santa praised his principal for convincing Santa to visit his school. “I remember his smile, calmness, and his ability to make me and all my classmates feel like we were all special — and that Christmas was just for us,” Banks reminisced in an email to Gambit. Banks later went on to learn just how many young New Orleanians also met this same very special Santa. And when he was in college, Banks received photos of his nephews, friends and family with Parker, which warmed his heart. “I started to believe Santa was real,” Banks wrote. “Santa never aged. I became a grown man believing in Santa. The Christmas spirit never left me that day in 1989.” Kendrick White took photos with Parker for years, marking just one point in a longstanding tradition for his family. “Three generations in my life have taken pictures with the man,” White says, referring to his father, 67, and his son, 10, who took photos with Parker. “Santa has been here forever.” White felt devastated over the news of Parker’s passing. He calls

Parker a kind of Christmas miracle, as he’d never known any other Santa. “I know you see people give their roses while they are here, but sometimes you don’t expect the unexpected,” White says. After years of bringing joy to Christmas revelers’ faces, Parker’s passing wasn’t taken lightly. But one person in particular is now trying his best to guide Santa’s sleigh from now on. “In my mind, he was Santa Claus. He wasn’t like a regular human — almost like a superhero,” Gentilly’s Santa Claus Matt Brown says. Brown was just a little boy when he took his photo with Parker in the library at Claiborne Elementary (now Mary D. Coghill Elementary). Sadly, just like Braden-Perry, Hurricane Katrina took those old photos from Brown as well. Thankfully, that wouldn’t be Brown’s last sighting of old Saint Nick. As he got older, Brown started working in the school system, and started seeing Parker more and more often. “After all these years, he’s still doing his job,” Brown says. Despite the spirit of Christmas being all about special surprises, Brown says he never imagined he would step to the plate to become Gentilly Santa in 2019. Brown was shocked to hear about Parker’s passing. Though he has a genuine love and care for children, Brown waited on taking the position of Gentilly Santa, he says, due to how he thought people would react to Parker being replaced. But after getting some motivation from Santa himself, he decided to step into the role. “This is probably what he would want, someone to fill that void and continue to create those lifelong memories with families in the city,” Brown says. “I just hope that I’m making him proud.” According to his daughter, Fred Parker decided that he wanted to shave his beard once he died. He didn’t want anyone — especially children — to think that Santa passed away. In that way, his Santa will never be gone nor forgotten. “It is a time of great joy and sadness for me,” Lewis says about this particular Christmas without her father. “I would love to see him adorn that red suit one more time. Thankfully I have lots of videos that I can replay, and I saved all of my voicemails that he left me.“

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COV ER STORY

PHOTO PROVIDED BY JE SSIC A AND DANIELLE SAIZ AN

“I never planned this. The one thing I can say is that it’s a gift from heaven. God put me where I need to be.” — F R E D PA R K E R

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s part of Gambit’s tribute to Fred Parker, we asked you, our readers, for your favorite photos and memories of “the REAL Santa.” And from pictures of

19 98

terrified children to beaming adults, you did not disappoint, New Orleans! Here’s just a small taste of the eternal, joyous impact Mr. Parker had, and continues to have, on our city.

I was a student at St. Leo the Great Elementary. Every year, I looked forward to taking a picture with Santa, the “REAL” Santa. I have every photo from age 3-11 saved but this one is my favorite. At this age (8), my parents were separating and it was a hard time for my family. With my world changing, I remember looking forward to one constant tradition... taking a picture with Black Santa.

PHOTO PROVIDED B Y K AY J A MOLIERE

20 03

— J A N E L L E VA R N A D O

P H O T O P R O V I D E D B Y J A N E L L E VA R N A D O

2011 PHOTO PROVIDED BY T E R R E L L S H E X N AY D E R- B R I S C O E

2 012 PHOTO PROVIDED BY PAT R I C E H A M M O N D

PAGE 20

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I couldn’t wait to let my oldest daughter take pictures with my elementary school Santa!!! She was terrified when we first tried to take the picture, but Santa Fred told us to just give her time and let her watch a few kids go first!! He was so warm and comforting!!! She watched 2 kids go before her, and then she was ready!!! Santa Fred told me “Parents just have to listen, I knew we would get the shot” lol He was truly one of a kind!!! This was one of my fondest memories!! He will be truly missed!! — C H AVO N N E B A R T H E L E M Y

2 014 2 017

P H O T O P R O V I D E D B Y C H AV O N N E B A R T H E L E M Y PHOTO PROVIDED BY BRE T T MARTIN

2016

Rinique Mitchell got her classic screaming child shot back in 2016 when she took Kieran to see Santa, recalling “MY son Kieran, he was 2 years old ... [and] Santa kept saying “cmon bruh I know I don’t look that bad”

2 018

PHOTO PROVIDED BY RINIQUE MITCHELL PHOTO PROVIDED BY FERGIE LE WIS

COV ER STORY

2 015 -2 018

Each of my three children got to experience pictures with chocolate Santa. He is truly missed and was so loved. — L AT E R R I C A B R OW N

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY L AT E R R I C A B R O W N

2 015 -2 018

PAGE 23

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Sunday Brunch at an Italian Grocery and Deli? You bet! Nor Joe Imports features a different breakfast sandwich every Sunday from 11am - 3pm. Along with unique Cheese Wheel Pasta dishes and Mimosa specials with house made Ginger Joy Lemonade.

Josephine Estelle is open for brunch from 9:00 am - 3:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Highlights include BBQ Shrimp & Grits with tasso and cheddar grits, cacio e pepe, and a delightful hibiscus wine spritzer. Plus enjoy outdoor dining with a balcony view.

Miso Shrimp for Brunch - Red Gravy has been serving Brunch for 10 years; first downtown, and now in the new location, Uptown on Magazine Street. Favorites like Cannoli Pancakes, Polpetta omelet, Breakfast spaghetti and new items like the NYC Pushcart and Miso Shrimp. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday 10am - 2pm

505 Frisco Ave. • Metairie • 504-833-9240

600 Carondelet Street • New Orleans • 504-930-3070 JosephineEstelle.com

4206 Magazine Street • New Orleans • 504-561-8844 RedGravyCafe.com

Brunch runch ANDREAS

TITO’S CEVICHE AND PISCO

THE BLUE CRAB RESTAURANT AND OYSTER BAR Blue Crab Benedict and bottomless mimosas!! We serve hot fresh brunch every Saturday and Sunday from 9am-2pm!

7900 Lakeshore Drive • New Orleans • 504-284-2898 TheBlueCrabNola.com

MID CITY PIZZA

Eggplant Crabcakes – with Two Fried Eggs topped with Hollandaise Sauce. Enjoy $12 Bottomless Mimosas every Sunday starting at 11am.

At Tito’s Ceviche and Pisco, Sundays means Brunch! Kick off your brunch with a bottomless mimosas while relaxing and enjoying the outdoors. Taste some of our brunch collection recipes such as Two lump crab cakes on top of an aji panca cream sauce, wilted spinach, two poached eggs topped with huancaina sauce. For a Limited time enjoy some Algarrobina (Peruvian Eggnog) a classic holiday drink.

$1 mimosas Saturdays and Sundays with food purchase. $5 glasses of wine everyday 11-4 Mid city location

3100 19th St • Metairie • 504-834-8583 AndreasRestaurant.com

5015 Magazine Street • New Orleans • 504-267-7612 TitosCevichePisco.com

4400 Banks Street • New Orleans • 504-483-8609 MidCityPizza.com

DESIRE OYSTER BAR IN THE ROYAL SONESTA

LUNA LIBRE

KATIE’S RESTAURANT

Desire Oyster Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy a great meal in the center of all the action of the French Quarter. Shrimp Omelet Etouffee, Fried Chicken & Waffles and the Cajun Benedict are just a few of the dishes on the menu.

Enjoy brunch at Luna Libre on Saturdays & Sundays from 8:30am to 1pm. Serving breakfast tacos, shrimp and grits, pancakes and more. Sit by the fire pit on the patio and sip a flaming margarita. Dog friendly outdoor dining. Open for dinner Wed – Sat 4 to 8 pm.

Katie’s offers chargrilled oysters on the Brunch menu! Choose ½ dozen or dozen. Also available, Oyster Slessinger – chargrilled oysters topped with creamy provel shrimp, spinach and bacon.

300 Bourbon Street • New Orleans • 504-586-0300 Sonesta.com

3600 St Claude Ave • New Orleans • 504-237-1284 LunaLibreNola.com

3701 Iberville Street • New Orleans • 504-488-6582 KatiesInMidCity.com

EATDRINK

FORK CENTER

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Going Global Worldly flavors at The Chloe BY B E T H D ’A D D O N O IT DOESN’T TAKE A CULINARY GENIUS

to see that the composed plates chef Todd Pulsinelli is sending out of the kitchen at The Chloe are executed by a perfectionist. From the finest heirloom garnishes to the surprising layers of flavors — hello, black garlic ice cream with wagyu tartare! – Pulsinelli’s food sets a high bar. A few years ago, Pulsinelli was at the helm of August, one of the city’s most elegant fine dining restaurants. Those chops are still apparent, despite his next move to the more casual Warbucks, a BRG restaurant that opened in December 2018. That restaurant shuttered after just eight months, but he wasn’t out of work long. After Warbucks closed, he took off for about a month and spent time in Dallas, where his wife’s family lives. When a few of his pals who work at Sylvain told him the LeBlanc + Smith restaurant group planned to open a boutique hotel, he was intrigued. The local company has a good reputation in the hospitality industry, operating Sylvain, Longway Tavern and Cavan, though it recently was forced to close Meauxbar on the edge of the French Quarter. Pulsinelli reached out to owner Robert LeBlanc to see what was going on with the hotel’s kitchen. “We started talking, had a few interviews and I cooked for the management team. I think the timing was good all around,” he says. He started with the company Sept. 1, 2019. The Chloe, formerly a bed and breakfast called the Avenue Inn, is set back from the street in a picturesque 19th-century mansion at 4125 St. Charles Ave. Restored to a gorgeous luster after a year-long redesign, the project was delayed by four months thanks to the coronavirus pandemic. The 14-room hotel, which opened in mid-October, offers seating for 120

guests in non-pandemic times, with plenty of outside seating under the branches of a stately live oak tree, as well as a more casual outdoor setting in back by the pool patio. There is also indoor dining and seating in the bar area. From the start the concept was “21st-century New Orleans” cuisine with global influences, said the German-born, Midwest-raised chef, who moved to New Orleans in 2004. (He now lives in Gentilly with his wife Elizabeth and their sons Ted, 3, and Hank, 8.) “It’s a little eclectic,” Pulsinelli says of his cuisine. “The dishes are a lot of things and variations I’ve done through the years. A classic is a classic, but I use the same technique to change things up just a little.” Take the agnolotti z’herbes with pot liquor and harissa sauce. Pulsinelli loves collards, which he braises in a spicy, rich broth, stuffs into pasta pockets and tops with ribbons of more greens. It’s rich, elegant and definitely not the traditional green gumbo. “I had a customer get a little peeved that he wasn’t getting gumbo with white rice,” he said. Shrimp etouffee gets an Asian sheen, stuffed into potstickers and served with crushed chili and fragrant ginger. Local drum is crisped in brown butter and topped with bearnaise, flanked with nibs of green beans and bok choy. House-made charcuterie includes a warm sliced sausage, most recently spiced with harissa, zippy tasso, liver mousse, pimento cheese and seasonal marmalade, served with fried saltines on the side, North Carolina-style. The six-ounce twin stack burger is a crowd pleaser, a straight-up all-American cheeseburger dressed with tarragon dill pickles on a poppyseed bun from Weiss Guys Bakery in Covington.

Email dining@gambitweekly.com

Taco stand Barracuda to open second location in Algiers Point NEIGHBORHOOD TACO STAND and margarita garden Barracuda is opening a second location in Algiers Point at 446 Pelican Ave. in early 2021, bringing more Mexican options and plenty of tequila to the West Bank. The exact date for the grand opening is not yet known, but like the original location the casual eatery will focus on fresh Mexican staples, drawing influence from authentic taquerias throughout Mexico and the American Southwest.

P H OTO B Y C H ER Y L G ER B ER

Chef Todd Pulsinelli of The Chloe

Grilled broccoli and cauliflower salad is dressed with homemade chili crunch and quick-charred for lots of texture, tossed with peanuts, lime and jalapeno. For dessert, it doesn’t get better than the green tomato hand pie, an ode to Hubig’s that arrives under a fragrant orange glaze, studded with buttery sliced almonds. With its roomy outdoor space and live music on the weekends — find out about that on The Chloe’s Instagram account @thechloenola — the crowds he’s been feeding have mostly been local, which is a good thing. Opening a new business during a pandemic is stressful. Like many other restaurants and businesses, they had to close for a few days when two team members tested positive for the virus. “We have weekly rapid testing and stringent cleaning measures in place,” he says. “It’s the right thing to do. We’re blessed in these crazy times to be relatively busy.”

? WHAT

The Chloe

WHERE

4125 St. Charles Ave, (504) 541-5500 @thechloenola on Instagram

WHEN

7 a.m.-10 p.m Mon.-Thu.; 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.

HOW

Dine-in, takeout

CHECK IT OUT

Worldly, creative new takes on classics & more

P H OTO P R OV I D E D B Y B A RR AC U DA

The hip, casual dining spot will provide walk-up service and covered seating. Highlights of the new venture include a 50-seat margarita garden decorated with cacti and custom millwork from GoodWood NOLA and Kalimera Group, along with hand-painted signage from local creative studio, Smallchalk. West Bankers can look forward to tacos made from Sonoran-style thin flour tortillas and a variety of seasonal fillings, including vegetarian and vegan options. Drinks include a range of Mexican beers, horchada, and margaritas with fresh-squeezed lime juice and Lunazul Blanco Tequila. The restaurant is helmed by Brett Jones, who adapted to pandemic restrictions by expanding to-go options, online ordering and launching a taco family meal plan that feeds anywhere between four and 15 people. Barracuda also offers “party packs” — including a breakfast taco pack — and a DIY Taco Party Pack that Jones says is perfect for socially distanced gatherings at home or outside. PAGE 28

EAT+DRINK

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NEW ORLEANS - METAIRIE

The original location at 3984 Tchoupitoulas St. remains open for outdoor dining, curbside and window pick-up, and delivery. For more information or to place an order at its Uptown location, visit eatbarracuda.com. — SARAH RAVITS

REAL EXPERIENCE. REAL EXPERIENCE

MATTERS. REAL RESULTS.

The Larder opens in Metairie

SALVADOR M. BROCATO, III ATTORNEY AT LAW

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Dine-in, Take-out t & Delivery All Locations Tues - Sun WWW.THEOSPIZZA.COM 2125 Veterans Blvd • 1212 S Clearview Pkwy 4218 Magazine St • 4024 Canal St • 70488 Hwy 21 - Covington

THE LARDER UNFOLDS FLAVOR by flavor. There’s a gelato counter and espresso bar front and center, then the deli case for chilled dishes, the kitchen window for hot ones, the cheese case, the wine and beer counter, the shelves of specialty groceries and, goodness yes, the chocolate. What unites it all are the tastes of the two chefs behind the Larder, and the tips and tales they share about what they’ve collected for their new gourmet market. The Larder officially opened Monday, Dec. 14, at 3005 Veterans Blvd. in Metairie. It’s the creation of Chris Wilson and Alison Vega-Knoll, two friends who each have long careers in New Orleans food. Wilson spent 28 years in different positions at Emeril Lagasse’s company, from chef at Emeril’s Restaurant to culinary director for the whole company. Vega-Knoll, who created Vega Tapas Cafe in the 1990s, is chef and co-founder of Station 6, the popular modern seafood restaurant in Bucktown. At the Larder, they’re presenting foods they consider personal standbys and favorites. It’s a mix of global gourmet staples, local artisan brands and the fresh dishes the Larder’s kitchen cooks up for its deli, its graband-go cases and its dine-in menu. “It’s all the things we love,” said Vega-Knoll. “The best of what we can find and the best that we know how to make.” Wilson calls the concept a “kicked-up market,” with family-sized meals for home, dishes for easy entertaining and tables for a sandwich, a salad and a glass of wine on the spot. Since the Larder began taking shape this year, many have compared the concept to Foodies Kitchen, the market opened in Metairie by the Commander’s Palace branch of the Brennan family back in 1999. (It later expanded with an Uptown location, but both closed.) The Larder is a smaller venture, however, and Wilson said one key of the project is the way it works in some facets that have become pivotal during the pandemic, like family-sized meals to go and curbside pickup. A drive-thru window will play an important role in the operation. The drive-thru should start up about a week after opening. That window was already built in, and it’s

about the only reminder that this address had once been a Burger King. Later, it was a location of New Orleans Coffee & Beignet Co. Now, the Larder fills the same space with a modern, clean-lined look of white tile, blackboard menus and one temptation after the next. There’s a small collection of tables for inside seating, and a new openair patio out front. Some of the local brands on hand are Piccola Gelateria, which has a gelato case for scoops, and French Truck Coffee, the local roaster supplying the espresso bar here. The kitchen makes egg sandwiches, avocado toast, bagels, biscuits and grit bowls for breakfast; at lunch there are sandwiches,

P H OTO B Y C H R I S G R A N G ER / T H E T I M E S - P I C AY U N E | T H E N E W O R L E A N S A DVO C AT E

A platter of cupcakes at the Larder, a gourmet market and deli they developed in Metairie.

entrée salads, a burger (“the Larder whoppa”) and shrimp gyros. The deli case has cold salads — noodle salad, Mexican street corn salad, good old chicken salad — and prepared platters of everything from crabcakes to escargot. Specialty olive oils, candies from chocolate masters Jacque Torres and John Kelly, pastas and culinary gifts line other tables and racks. The Larder is also home base for Cajun Caviar, a brand made with roe from locally plentiful bowfin fish. Vega-Knoll and Amy Wilson, the chef’s wife, are partners in that company. They distribute from the Larder while jars of the gleaming roe have their own place in the shop. The Larder is open daily from 8 a.m.-6 p.m. and is located at 3005 Veterans Blvd., Metairie. For more information, visit lardergourmetmarket.com or call (504) 766-6157. —IAN McNULTY / THE TIMES-PICAYUNE | THE NEW ORLEANS ADVOCATE

EAT+DRINK

Adrian Mowbray

Sicilian • Creole Italian

CHEF

4445 W. METAIRIE AVE. (504) 533-9998

New Jersey, where he grew up, for 20 years in Seattle, and now in New Orleans. In October, Mowbray started his Clark’s Caribbean pop-up out of Bywater Trap commissary kitchen, which hosts a few pop-ups during the week. He posts menus for Thursday pop-ups on the Clark’s Caribbean Facebook and Instagram pages.

How did the pop-up come about? M: The plan was to open a food truck this spring. I was working on financing and then the whole Covid thing shut that down. I had this opportunity here with Eric (Rothschild at Bywater Trap Kitchen). I am doing this once a week on Thursdays to get started, but the plan is to get a food truck and eventually a brick and mortar when things change for the better. The pop-up is named after my father. He was a home cook. He instilled a love of cooking and food. He was a very international guy and studied a lot of languages, and whatever language he was studying, we’d be eating that kind of food. That kind of inspired me, so I named the pop-up after him. This is something I had been wanting to do. I lived in the Caribbean for a year and a half, in Honduras and I traveled around. I love the flavors and the style, and I think it’s a good match for New

NEAR CLEARVIEW PKWY

Tis the Season to

GIFT CARDS

How did you get into the restaurant business? ADRIAN MOWBRAY: I started working in restaurants when I was 14. I grew up in New Jersey, and I spent 20 years in Seattle. I opened Spitfire. I ran the kitchen at The Central (Bar + Restaurant). I worked at the Blue Water Fish and Steak House. I worked at a bunch of places. Mostly I have worked in the front of the house in New Orleans. I worked at Herbsaint and Tujague’s. I have never worked in the kitchens here because the pay is so bad. They’re paying people $9-$10 an hour. I can earn a lot more working in the front of the house, but my passion is for the food.

OPEN FOR DINNER TUES - SAT • 5:30PM - 10PM

OWNER/CHEF FRANK CATALANOTTO

ADRIAN MOWBRAY HAS WORKED IN THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY in

FOR GIVING

P H OTO B Y W I L L C OV I E L LO

Orleans. They always say, “Don’t think of New Orleans as a Southern city. Think of it as the northernmost Caribbean city.”

What kind of food are you making? M: I am trying to do non-Jamaican mostly, but I did do an oxtail and curry thing last week. Mostly, I am staying away from jerk things. I love jerk chicken and pork, but I am trying to give people a feel for different things the whole area has to offer. For the first couple of weeks, I was doing sandwiches. I did pork, which was this variation of a Honduran dish that’s a little sweet from orange juice and lime juice. That was on flatbread with pickled slaw. I did chicken that’s a mix of Dominican and Puerto Rican dishes. I also roasted plantains and served them on flatbread with pickled slaw, garlic aioli and pineapple-jalapeno sauce on top. I did curries for a couple of weeks. Curry is a product of colonialism. It’s Indian spices, but the British brought it everywhere. From the Spanish Caribbean, I do pollo guisado, which is a Dominican chicken fricassee with a tangy, rich tomato sauce. Pastelon is like a plantain lasagna. Instead of using pasta, you cut the plantains super thin. It’s a Puerto Rican dish and traditionally it would be done with ground beef and eggs, but I make a vegan one with red lentils, mushrooms and peppers and things like that. I want to keep exploring and finding things I like. — WILL COVIELLO

NOW OPEN SUNDAY FOR FEASTING

VALET AVAILABLE

Eat Local OUTDOOR SEATING FOR DINING

OPEN MONDAY - SATURDAY 11AM - 9PM & SUNDAYS 10AM - 3PM

3001 Magazine St • 504.891.0997 • www.joeyksrestaurant.com

s Celebrate the holiday

WITH YOUR FAVORITE ITALIAN DISHES

MAKE YOUR RESERVATIONS TODAY! OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER WEDNESDAY - SUNDAY

134 N CARROLLTON • 488-7991 • VENEZIANEWORLEANS.NET

ADVERTISE WITH US Call Sandy Stein (504) 483-3150 or sstein@gambitweekly.com

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3-COURSE INTERVIEW

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CELEBRATE RESPONSIBLY®

OUT EAT Contact Will Coviello wcoviello@gambitweekly.com 504-483-3106 | FAX: 504-483-3159

C O M P L E T E L I S T I N G S AT W W W. B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M Out 2 Eat is an index of Gambit contract advertisers. Unless noted, addresses are in New Orleans and all accept credit cards. Updates: email willc@gambitweekly.com or call (504) 483-3106.

Notice: Due to COVID-19, dining at restaurants is impacted, with limited indoor seating and other recommended restrictions. All information is subject to change. Contact the restaurant to confirm service options.

BYWATER Luna Libre — 3600 St. Claude Ave., (504) 237-1284 — Roasted chicken enchiladas verde are filled with cheese and served with house-made cheese dip. The menu combines Tex-Mex and dishes from Louisiana and Arkansas. Curbside pickup is available. B Sat-Sun, D Wed-Sun. $

CBD 14 Parishes — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave.; 14parishes.com — Jamaican-style jerk chicken is served with two sides such as plantains, jasmine rice, cabbage or rice and peas. Delivery available. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L and D daily. $$ Eat Well — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave.; pythianmarket.com — Phoritto is a spinach tortilla filled with brisket, chicken or tofu, plus bean sprouts, jalapenos, onions and basil and is served with a cup of broth. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L and D daily. $ Kais — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave., (941) 481-9599; pythianmarket.com — A Sunshine bowl includes salmon, corn, mango, green onions, edamame, pickled ginger, ponzu spicy mayonnaise, cilantro, masago and nori strips. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L and D daily. $$ La Cocinita — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave., (504) 309-5344; lacochinitafoodtruck.com — La Llanera is an arepa stuffed with carne asada, guasacasa, pico de gallo, grilled queso fresco and salsa verde. Curbside pickup and delivery available. B, L and D daily. $ Meribo Pizza — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave., (504) 481-9599; meribopizza. com — A Meridionale pie is topped with pulled pork, chilies, ricotta, mozzarella, collard greens and red sauce. Delivery available. L and D daily. $$ Willie Mae’s — Pythian Market, 234 Loyola Ave.; williemaesnola.com — The Creole soul food restaurant is known for its fried chicken, red beans and more. Takeout available. L and D Mon-Sat. $

CARROLLTON Mikimoto — 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 488-1881; mikimotosushi.com — The South Carrollton roll includes tuna tataki, avocado and snow crab. Takeout and delivery available. L Sun-Fri, D daily. $$ Pyramids Cafe — 3151 Calhoun St., (504) 861-9602 — Diners will find Mediterranean cuisine featuring such favorites as shawarma prepared on a rotisserie. Takeout and delivery available. L, D daily. $$

CITYWIDE Breaux Mart — Citywide; breauxmart.com

B — breakfast L — lunch D — dinner late — late 24H — 24 hours

$ — average dinner entrée under $10 $$ — $11 to $20 $$$ — $21 or more

— The deli counter’s changing specials include dishes such as baked catfish and red beans and rice. L, D daily. $

FAUBOURG MARIGNY Carnaval — 2227 St. Claude Ave., (504) 265-8855; carnavallounge.com — The Cozinha de Carnaval kitchen serves Brazilian street food. Frango is chicken cooked with thyme, rosemary and cumin and served with rosemary-garlic aioli. No reservations. Takeout available. D Sat-Mon. $ Kebab — 2315 St. Claude Ave., (504) 3834328; kebabnola.com — The sandwich shop offers doner kebabs and Belgian fries. A falafel sandwich comes with pickled cucumbers, arugula, spinach, red onions, beets, hummus and Spanish garlic sauce. No reservations. Takeout and delivery available Thu-Mon. $

FRENCH QUARTER Desire Oyster Bar — Royal Sonesta New Orleans, 300 Bourbon St., (504) 5860300; sonesta.com/desireoysterbar — The menu features Gulf seafood in traditional and contemporary Creole dishes, poboys and more. Char-grilled oysters are topped with Parmesan, herbs and butter. Reservations recommended. Takeout available. B, L and D daily. $$

HARAHAN/JEFFERSON/ RIVER RIDGE The Rivershack Tavern — 3449 River Road, (504) 834-4938; therivershacktavern.com — This bar and music spot offers a menu of burgers, sandwiches and changing lunch specials. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L, D daily. $ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 1212 S. Clearview Parkway, Elmwood, (504) 7333803; theospizza.com — There is a wide variety of specialty pies and toppings to build your own pizza. The menu also includes salads and sandwiches. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L, D TueSat. $

LAKEVIEW Lakeview Brew Coffee Cafe — 5606 Canal Blvd., (504) 483-7001; lakeviewbrew. com — This casual cafe offers coffee, pastries, desserts, sandwiches and salads. Tuna salad or chicken salad avocado melts are topped with Monterey Jack and Parmesan. Takeout, curbside pickup and delivery are available. B, L daily. $ Lotus Bistro — 203 W. Harrison Ave., (504) 533-9879; lotusbistronola.com — A Mineko Iwasaki roll includes spicy snow crab, tuna, avocado and cucumber topped with salmon, chef’s sauce, masago, green onion and tempura crunchy flakes. The menu also includes bento box lunches, teriyaki dishes, fried rice and more. Takeout and delivery are available. L and D Tue-Sun. $$ PAGE 33

Send us a photo or video of YOUR 2020 holiday lights display to enter to win limited edition holiday knitwear from Miller Lite and Gambit. VISIT BESTOFNEWORLEANS.COM/LITE FOR MORE INFORMATION All qualified submissions must include a Miller Lite logo. Our favorite photos will be selected each week to win a Miller Lite knitwear prize pack and will be printed in Gambit.

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WE HAVE

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1200 Poydras Street, Suite 103 | 504-577-2937 stumpyshh.com/neworleansla

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MID-CITY/TREME Angelo Brocato’s — 214 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 486-1465; angelobrocatoicecream. com — This sweet shop serves its own gelato, spumoni, Italian ice, cannolis, fig cookies and other treats. Window and curbside pickup. L, D Tue-Sun. $ Brown Butter Southern Kitchen & Bar — 231 N. Carrollton Ave., Suite C, (504) 6093871; brownbutterrestaurant.com — Sample items include smoked brisket served with smoked apple barbecue sauce, smoked heirloom beans and vinegar slaw. A Brunch burger features a brisket and short rib patty topped with bacon, brie, a fried

OUT TO EAT

NORTHSHORE Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 70488 Highway 21, Covington, (985) 234-9420; theospizza.com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $

UPTOWN Joey K’s — 3001 Magazine St., (504) 8910997; joeyksrestaurant.com — The menu includes fried seafood platters, salads, sandwiches and red beans and rice. Sauteed trout Tchoupitoulas is topped with shrimp and crabmeat and served with vegetables and potatoes. Takeout and delivery available. $$ Red Gravy — 4206 Magazine St., (504) 561-8844; redgravycafe.com — Thin cannoli pancakes are filled with cannoli cream and topped with chocolate. The menu includes brunch items, pasta dishes, sandwiches, baked goods and more. Takeout available. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 4218 Magazine St., (504) 894-8554; theospizza. com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $ Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco — 5015 Magazine St., (504) 267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com — The Peruvian menu includes a version of the traditional dish lomo saltado, featuring beef tenderloin tips sauteed with onions, tomatoes, cilantro, soy sauce and pisco, and served with fried potatoes and rice. Dine-in, outdoor seating and delivery available. L and D Mon-Sat., brunch Sun. $$$

WAREHOUSE DISTRICT Annunciation — 1016 Annunciation St., (504) 568-0245; annunciationrestaurant.com — The menu highlights Gulf seafood in Creole, Cajun and Southern dishes. Fried oysters and skewered bacon are served with meuniere sauce and toasted French bread. Reserva-

tions required. D Thu-Sun. $$$ Carmo — 527 Julia St., (504) 875-4132; cafecarmo.com — Carmo salad includes smoked ham, avocado, pineapple, almonds, cashews, raisins, cucumber, green pepper, rice, lettuce, cilantro and citrus mango vinaigrette. The menu includes dishes inspired by tropical cuisines. Takeout and delivery are available. Mon-Sat. $$ NOLA Caye — 898 Baronne St., (504) 302-1302; nolacaye.com — The menu features Caribbean-inspired dishes and Gulf seafood. Seared ahi tuna is served with mango, avocado, mixed greens, citrus vinaigrette and sesame seeds. Takeout, delivery and outdoor seating available. D daily, brunch Sat-Sun. $$$ Provisions Grab-n-Go Marketplace — Higgins Hotel, 500 Andrew Higgins Blvd., (504) 528-1941; higgingshotelnola.com — The coffeeshop serves salads, sandwiches, pastries and more. Takeout available. Service daily. $

WEST BANK Mosca’s — 4137 Hwy. 90 W., Westwego, (504) 436-8950; moscasrestaurant.com — This family-style eatery serves shrimp Mosca, chicken a la grande and baked oysters Mosca, made with breadcrumbs and Italian seasonings. Curbside pickup available. D Wed-Sat. Cash only. $$$ Specialty Italian Bistro — 2330 Belle Chasse Hwy., Gretna, (504) 391-1090; specialtyitalianbistro.com — The menu combines Old World Italian favorites and pizza. Paneed chicken piccata is topped with lemon-caper piccata sauce served with angel hair pasta, salad and garlic cheese bread. Takeout and delivery available. Service daily. $$

TAKEOUT and DELIVERY

LAST MINUTE GIFT IDEAS! New Orleans

HOME + STYLE + DESIGN

We got you Boo!!

DON’T MISS THE JANUARY ISSUE

CALL NOW

ISSUE DATE

JANUARY 5

Contact Ad Director Sandy Stein 504.483.3150 or sstein@gambitweekly.com

517 METAIRIE RD. OLD METAIRIE | 504-510-4655 | nolaboo.com

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Andrea’s Restaurant — 3100 N. 19th St., Metairie, (504) 834-8583; andreasrestaurant.com — Chef Andrea Apuzzo’s speckled trout royale is topped with crabmeat and lemon-cream sauce. Capelli D’Andrea combines house-made angel hair pasta and smoked salmon in cream sauce. Curbside pickup and delivery available. L, D daily, brunch Sun. $$$ Kosher Cajun New York Deli & Grocery — 3519 Severn Ave., Metairie, (504) 888-2010; koshercajun.com — This New York-style deli specializes in sandwiches, including corned beef and pastrami that come from the Bronx. Takeout available. L Sun-Thu, D Mon-Thu. $ Mark Twain’s Pizza Landing — 2035 Metairie Road, Metairie, (504) 832-8032; marktwainpizza.com — Mark Twain’s serves salads, po-boys and pies like the Italian pizza with salami, tomato, artichoke, sausage and basil. Takeout and curbside pickup are available. L Tue-Sat, D Tue-Sun. $ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 2125 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, (504) 5104282; theospizza.com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $

egg, onion jam and arugula on a brioche bun. Dine-in, takeout, curbside pickup and delivery available. L and D Wed-Sat, brunch Sat-Sun. $$ Doson Noodle House — 135 N. Carrollton Ave., (504) 309-7283; facebook.com/dosonnoodlehouse — Bun thit is Vietnamese-style grilled pork with cucumber, onions, lettuce, mint, cilantro and fish sauce served over rice or vermicelli. The menu includes pho, spring rolls and more. Takeout, curbside pickup and delivery are available. $$ Five Happiness — 3511 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 482-3935; fivehappiness.com — The large menu of Chinese dishes includes wonton soup, sizzling seafood combinations served on a hot plate, sizzling Go-Ba and lo mein dishes. Takeout and delivery available. $$ Katie’s Restaurant — 3701 Iberville St., (504) 488-6582; katiesinmidcity.com — Favorites include the Cajun Cuban with roasted pork, grilled ham, cheese and pickles pressed on buttered bread. The Boudreaux pizza is topped with cochon de lait, spinach, red onions, roasted garlic and scallions. Takeout, curbside pickup and delivery available. L and D Tue-Sun. $$ Nonna Mia — 3125 Esplanade Ave., (504) 948-1717; nonnamianola.com — A Divine Portobello appetizer features chicken breast, spinach in red pepper sauce and crostini. The menu includes salads, sandwiches, pasta, pizza and more. Curbside pickup and delivery are available. Service daily. $$ Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza — 4024 Canal St., (504) 302-1133; theospizza.com — See Harahan/Jefferson section for restaurant description. $ Willie Mae’s Scotch House — 2401 St. Ann St., (504) 822-9503; williemaesnola.com — This neighborhood restaurant is known for its wet-battered fried chicken. Green beans come with rice and gravy. No reservations. L Mon-Fri. $$

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34 In & Out diamond hoops starting at

$1,150, designed by Wellington & Co. Fine Jewelry, available in white and yellow gold from Wellington & Co. (505 Royal St., 504525-4855; store.wcjewelry.com). PHOTO PROVIDED BY WELLINGTON & CO.

This holiday season spend your money where your home is. Theo’s gift card

Perfect for anyone on your list. Buy online & set the date to be electronically delivered to the recipient’s email. Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza (5 Locations; www.theospizza.com). PHOTO PROVIDED BY THEO’S NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA

Silver palmetto leaf serving platter

$40 from The Occasional Wife (8237 EarhartBlvd., 504-302-9893; www.theoccasionalwife.com). GAMBIT STAFF PHOTO

Perugina Italian Chocolate Bars

$3.95 each. The perfect stocking stuffers! in an assortment of flavors including limoncello, orangello, milk chocolate with hazelnuts, and dark chocolate with candies almonds from Angelo Brocato (214 N Carrollton Ave., 504-486-1465; www.angelobrocatoicecream.com).

24k gold plated earrings with black goose feathers

$195 from Judy at the Rink (2727 Prytania St., 504-891-7018; www.judyattherink.com). PHOTO PROVIDED BY JUDY AT THE RINK

PHOTO PROVIDED BY ANGELO BROCATO