N E W O R L E A N S M U S E U M O F A RT
A QUEEN WITHIN: ADORNED ARCHETYPES NOW - MAY 28, 2018
D I S C OV E R T H E
ART OF FASHION NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA
CUE MAGAZINE
INTRODUCTION
LETTER FROM
the Curator
Mel Buchanan // RO S A M A RY C U R ATO R O F D ECO R AT I V E A RTS A N D D E S I G N
F
ULL OF GLAMOUR, THEATRICALITY, ESCAPISM, WIT AND INNOVATION, The New Orleans Museum of Art’s first presentation of fashion design is an exhibition unlike any ever seen in New Orleans. A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes, on view now through May 28, brings together a wild array of more than 100 gowns, headpieces, shoes and jewelry by the most daring fashion designers of the past 10 years. The exhibition includes such household names as Alexander McQueen, Prada, Chanel and Comme des Garçons, intermixed with other boundary-pushing haute couture, including Chromat’s body-positive architectural looks and Iris van Herpen’s dresses that engage new technology. These spectacular designs will be displayed in an even more spectacular gallery presentation, with the whole exhibition stretching ideas about fashion’s possibility as a thoughtful art form. Showcasing rare pieces from one of the world’s largest private collections of Alexander McQueen, A Queen Within explores different archetypes of a queen—or metaphorically, of a woman— and how the mythic queen character manifests through storytelling in fashion. McQueen (British, 1969–2010) masterfully built narratives through his collections and runway shows. Inspired by his sensitivity to historical and literary research, this exhibition uses both fashion and its bold presentation to explore seven archetypal queens: The Mother Earth, Sage, Magician, Enchantress, Explorer, Heroine and Thespian. These representations, based upon Swiss psychoanalyst Carl Jung’s work, are derived from recurring motifs found across myths and fairy tales of world literature. The story and complexity of each feminine archetype — her powers, her weaknesses, her aesthetics — are articulated in A Queen Within through pioneering fashion, photography, video and exhibition design.
The Thespian Queen Centered around a rainbow crystal-printed ensemble from McQueen’s 2009 Natural Distinction, Un-natural Selection collection, A Queen Within opens with a rainbow-hued cluster of dresses dedicated to the Thespian Queen. The Thespian has a gift for entertainment and imagination, but the twin masks
of comedy and tragedy are the true source of theater’s power. McQueen’s fashion was the ultimate in theatrical glamour, but was very often deepened with a complex, dark undercurrent. Thespian’s show-stopping group of nine McQueen gowns includes a 2008 sequined cocktail dress emblazoned with the face of the designer’s muse, the late English stylist/magazine editor Isabella Blow, who died tragically in 2007. McQueen’s red tartan and black lace dress is from one of his most iconic shows: the 2006 Widows of Culloden collection. This emotional fashion show celebrated the designer’s Scottish ancestry through romance and exquisite craftsmanship, but was ultimately a melancholy look at Scotland’s long history of brutal subjugation by their English neighbors.
The Mother Earth Queen The Mother Earth Queen celebrates the powerful life-giving, protective force of women. This is fashion that is inspired by flora and fauna but also a deep ethical concern for our fragile ecosystem—a concept materialized through the use of sustainable garments. Shown amid a stunning floral labyrinth display, Mother Earth includes exquisite gowns delicately embroidered with botanical motifs, an ethereal cloud cloak by Maison Martin Margiela from 2009, a towering bird headpiece by Charlie le Mindu and conceptual designs about the future health of our planet. A 2016 Vivienne Westwood coat from the Mirror the World collection campaigns for a united effort to save Venice, and the rest of our planet, from the effects of climate change.
The Heroine Queen
GUCCI, GOLD DRESS WITH FEATHER EMBELLISHMENTS, SPRING/SUMMER 2011. COURTESY BARRETT BARRERA PROJECTS & RKL CONSULTING. PHOTO COURTESY LAFORCE & STEVENS.
With mannequins on mirrored plinths facing off to metaphorically battle with light strip “swords,” the section dedicated to the Heroine Queen imagines a brave warrior with a strong sense of morality and a willing readiness to fight. The Heroine Queen section brings together a powerful group of designs united by their use of metal, stone and uniform details, including new, radical takes on traditional armor like Chan Luu’s Swarovski crystal chain mail and Serena Gili’s protective fiberglass skirt. A highlight of Heroine Queen is Dutch designer Iris van Herpen’s Snake Dress, a 2011 gown that wraps the body in serpentine forms made of black acrylic sheets. According to van Herpen, who occasionally clears her mind with the
INTRODUCTION
sport of free fall parachute jumping, Snake Dress references the strong “fight or flight” feelings just before making a leap from an airplane. Van Herpen explains that before a free fall, “all my energy is in my head and I feel as though my mind is snaking through thousands of bends.
The Explorer Queen The woman of Explorer Queen is a strong individual — a seeker, adventurer and rebel. The Explorer Queen’s clothing challenges the authority of our status quo, featuring thoughtful designs that question the norm of a “fashionable” body type as a young, tall, thin model. The A Queen Within exhibition curator Sofia Hedman-Martynova of MUSEEA is passionate about these widened views of beauty: “Minna Palmqvist’s mannequin busts capture the beauty of nonconforming bodies, showing how fashion’s pioneers are moving away from the standard size 0 dress form. Gypsy Sport’s gender-fluid work is the voice for a new generation that calls for a more global, inclusive world.” Through video, A Queen Within shows Gypsy Sport taking to the Paris streets to cast models for the label’s Spring/Summer 2018 runway show. This unorthodox casting process demonstrates the New York designer’s commitment to diversity, calling for “no racism, no sexism, no ableism, no ageism, no homophobia and no xenophobia.”
The Sage Queen The Sage Queen is educated and wise, using her analytical knowledge to think deeply about the world. A Queen Within interprets this theme with a showcase of VIKTOR&ROLF, technologically advanced garDRESS, WEARABLE ments and associated films, ART, HAUTE touching upon designers who COUTURE FALL/ engage with new materiWINTER 2015. als and concepts about the changing function of clothing COURTESY VIKTOR & ROLF in the future.
The Magician Queen
PHOTO MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON.
The Magician Queen is a visionary artist, one who emphasizes fashion’s potential for creativity and visual experimentation with less regard for practical use. This theme features designs by Anrealage, Hideki Seo, Raul de Nieves and Antoine Peters that boldly make use of the space around the body in a way that makes the body itself almost superfluous. This is fashion as artistic sculpture.
The Enchantress Queen Presented within a glowing translucent white cube, the fashion of the Enchantress Queen celebrates the femme fatale. The Enchantress has sexual appeal, passion and a mesmerizing wit. Her ethereal designs obscure and reveal, and feature seductive attributes like loose hair, shiny lacquer, white teeth and luscious lips. Within a bed of pampas grass, the Enchantress Queen is anchored by stunning fashions featuring feathers, with an appealing gold-fringed gown by Gucci, and from McQueen a fuchsia evening VIVIENNE WESTgown, a white floating cloud of a WOOD, GOLD dress, and a stunning mint green LABEL UK, swing dress hemmed with ostrich TAILORED feathers. Enchantress includes a CHELSEA COAT tempting selection of sweet but AND RIVER vicious heels by McQueen, Prada DRESS, MIRROR and Fantich & Young. THE WORLD
COLLECTION, SPRING/ SUMMER 2016.
Through the rubric of these seven multi-faceted queens — from the seductiveness of an Enchantress COURTESY VIVIENNE to the benevolence of a Mother WESTWOOD Earth to the power of a HeroPHOTO UGO CAMERA ine — A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes shows how contemporary designers engage with the competing, complementary and often contradictory ideals we have about femininity. This remarkably thoughtful exhibition at NOMA reveals fashion’s importance as a conveyer of physical beauty as well as incisive cultural commentary on how artistic fashion engages with pain, humor, history and the future.
A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes is an exhibition developed by Barrett Barrera Projects and MUSEEA and toured internationally by Flying Fish. Presentation of this exhibition at the New Orleans Museum of Art is sponsored by the Eugenie and Joseph Jones Family Foundation. Additional support is provided by Ashley Longshore, Joseph: A Women’s Fashion Boutique and Millie Davis Kohn
ON THE COVER: SERENA GILI, CASHMERE BEADED TOP WITH GOLD FIGERGLASS SKIRT, DISCIPLINE COLLECTION 2012. COURTESY OF SERENA GILI. PHOTO SAGA SIG.
SOSUSU
COURTESY OF RAÚL DE NIEVES & COMPANY GALLERY, NEW YORK/ PHOTO COURTESY OF RAÚL DE NIEVES
See it!
Raúl de Nieves, Day(VES) of Wonder sculpture, 2007-2014
Wear it!
Shirt and Skirt by Alcoolique
SOSUSU is a women’s luxury boutique that specializes in carrying unique designers from around the world. Primarily Europe, Australia and the USA. Everything from casual RTW, evening, shoes, handbags and jewelry are offered. Women have different looks for daily life and occasions and SOSUSU Boutique has all of those offerings. One shouldn’t hesitate to purchase if they stumble upon something they can’t live without, as Susu only purchases limited quantities in order to maintain one’s individuality and uniqueness.
3427 Magazine Street New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 309-5026 sosusuboutique.com
JOHN FLUEVOG
COURTESY OF BARRETT BARRERA PROJECTS & RKL CONSULTING/ PHOTO SARAH CARMODY
See it!
White floral platform heels Spring/Summer 2011 Sarah Burton/ Alexander McQueen
More than a touch off kilter from your average party shoe, these angular keepers feature double ankle straps, leather wrapped buckles, a sexy mesh cutout on the toe and a crazy unique, bolt-shaped wood and acrylic heel. Made in Portugal
Wear it!
Modern Living Slant, Ankle Strap Heel $349
JOHN FLUEVOG is an independent designer and retailer of forward-thinking footwear and accessories. Since 1970, he has been steadfast in creating unique soles for unique souls that have been seen everywhere from the feet of Madonna, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Jack White to the runways of high fashion. In 2012, John was recognized by The Two/Ten Foundation of Canada as The Canadian Footwear Industry’s Shoe Person of the Year and John Fluevog Shoes was recently named one of the world’s most innovative companies in the fashion industry by creative business experts FastCompany. When you wear a pair of
321 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 523-7296
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JACI BLUE IN THE PERFECT DRESS, YOU CAN DO ANYTHING. That’s why at Jaci Blue, you’ll find gorgeous, fashion-forward clothing and undergarments hand-picked to flatter women sizes 12 and up. Owner Jaclyn McCabe, a radical self-love and body positive advocate, believes that beauty is a mindset, not a waistline.™ Jaclyn is a plus-size shopper who adores bold prints, luxe fabrics and up-to-the-minute designs. Her boutique offers women like her sophistication, exclusive access to top designers and Jaclyn’s signature style. COURTESY OF BARRETT BARRERA PROJECTS & RKL CONSULTING/ PHOTO SARAH CARMODY
See it!
Comme des Garçons, red dress, Spring/Summer 2015.
Wear it!
Bandage Dress, 360 Stretch, Sizes 0X-3X, Available in Black $179
Jaci Blue 2111 Magazine Street New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 603-2929 jaciblue.com @jaciblue
FILM SERIES
FASHION
Film
ON
SERIES
COURTESY OF BARRETT BARRERA PROJECTS & RKL CONSULTING/ PHOTO SARAH CARMODY
A
FIVE-PART FILM SERIES, presented in conjunction with the exhibition A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes, considers the role of fashion in modern society and takes an in-depth look at some of the industry’s most influential tastemakers.
FRIDAY • MARCH 2 • 6:30 PM
THE LEGACY OF ALEXANDER McQUEEN
Using never-before-seen interviews and archival fashion footage, this documentary finished in 2015 by Loïc Prigent explores Alexander McQueen’s artistic inspirations through the lens of his last four collections.
FILM SERIES
A year before he died, the highly controversial Alexander McQueen presented a collection that revisited all the codes of an oeuvre that began in the 1990s. Morbid and excessive, he ridiculed fashion and would crush and throw out everything, only to start all over again, better. Six months later, he presented what critics hailed as a visionary masterpiece: Plato’s Atlantis. His previous collection had spoken of a planet invaded by waste; this new collection evoked an amphibian world, in which faces and bodies had mutated. From the cut of the clothes to the wild shoes, everything was new. Finally, on January 18, 2010, three weeks before he committed suicide, McQueen put on his last fashion show, The Bone Collector. With a catacomb backdrop, men were covered in shinbones, skulls, and ropes. It was a premonitory display. This enlightened and inspired documentary features remarkable images of McQueen’s many fashion shows — dances of death and political commentary shot through with multiple references — offering a fascinating insight into the designer’s career and personality.
SATURDAY MARCH 3 • 2 PM
BANGAOLOGIA: THE SCIENCE OF STYLE
The African continent has always been a place that evokes a deep sense of wonder and fantasy. It is naturally diverse, with a vast array of people, cultures and natural beauty. Being home to ancient civilizations, it is considered the “birthplace of humanity.” But could it also be the birthplace of style? Africans and their cultures are inspiring the aesthetic world today more than ever. From the runways of the world to the meccas of visual art, there is an undeniable presence of African influence and a growing number of African trendsetters. Bangaologia sets out to explore the reason behind the recent growth of the African aesthetic in the world.
SAPEURS: THE MEN INSIDE THE SUITS SATURDAY • MARCH 3 FOLLOWING BANGAOLOGIA: THE SCIENCE OF STYLE Sapeurs: The Men Inside the Suits is a short film by Héctor Mediavilla that profiles a group of sharply dressed men in the Republic of Congo known for their distinctive sartorial style.
SATURDAY APRIL 7 • 2 PM
MANOLO: THE BOY WHO MADE SHOES FOR LIZARDS Manolo: The Boy Who Made Shoes for Lizards Lizards is the charming portrait of legendary shoe designer Manolo Blahnik, whose impeccable dedication to his craft set a fashion standard among celebrities, stylists and industry icons. Longtime fashion journalist Michael Roberts presents this never-before-seen peek into Blahnik’s world, featuring a “Who’s Who” of the fashion and entertainment industries including Anna Wintour, Rihanna, Paloma Picasso, Iman, Naomi Campbell, Rupert Everett, Karlie Kloss and André Leon Talley.
FRIDAY APRIL 20 • 7 PM
THE FIRST MONDAY IN MAY The First Monday in May chronicles a year’s worth of preparations for the Chinese-inspired fashion exhibition, China: Through the Looking Glass at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and the gala which accompanied the exhibition in 2015. The exhibition featured 150 garments from 40 designers. Andrew Bolton, chief curator at the Costume Institute, conceptualizes and designs the multimillion dollar fundraising gala with Anna Wintour, editor of Vogue magazine. The film also depicts Wintour’s daily life and questions fashion as art.
FRIDAY MAY 18 • 9:30 PM
THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE
The September Issue is a 2009 documentary film about the behind-the-scenes drama that follows editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and her staff during the production of the September 2007 issue of Vogue magazine — traditionally the biggest and most important issue of the year. The film depicts the effort that goes into making the magazine, and the passion that Grace Coddington, a former model-turned creative director and the only person who dares to stand up to Wintour, has for the highly regarded fashion periodical. In the film, Coddington often is portrayed as the leading victim to Wintour’s aggressive personality. The film features appearances by many wellknown and influential people in the fashion industry, including John Galliano, Oscar de la Renta, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld and Vera Wang.