OGT Winter 2015

Organic is More Than a Word, Winter Greenhouses, Cold Frames and Low Tunnels, Blossom End Rot, Peppermint, And Much More!

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36 High Mowing Organic Seed

Organic Gardens Today would like to thank

For the back page photo.

Remember snow is a great insulation blanket for our plants! (Well I tried to put a positive spin on snow!)

Organic Gardens Today is a publication dedicated to gardeners who strive to garden the organic way. Articles are property of their respective authors. Views expressed in the articles are not necessarily those of the Editor or magazine. Please contact the writers directly for reprint permission.

Organic Gardens Today Magazine Š David Daehnke 2015

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From The Editor Welcome to the Winter edition of Organic Gardens

Today

My grandfather used to say how quickly time flew by the older you get. Being a snot-nosed kid, I never paid attention to it until my oldest daughter began having children of her own and all of a sudden I became a grandparent. Gee whiz, wasn’t it just yesterday I planted those five foot tree “whips” which are now 35 feet tall?

Yes, time does go by quicker the older you get, but instead of being depressed, I like to look at things with more awe and inspiration. The way a tiny seed can transform into a beautiful flower, fruit, vegetable, shrub or tree amazes me. How Mother Nature, in her infinite wisdom, can provide for the animals and insects. We are all tied together on this planet, so we should do a better job of uniting together for the benefit of each other. During the Holidays especially, we should be helping one another instead of making laws against feeding the homeless in pub(www.facebook.com/events/829347883794320) lic. On December 17th, will be taking place across the US. If there isn’t an event near you, make one happen. If you can’t make it December 17th, start a food drive in your church, garden club or other organization that will continue throughout the year. If you can’t do any of the above, open your checkbook and make a donation to www.hungerthon.com, www.whyhunger.org or www.feedthechildren.org.

If you like what we have accomplished with Organic Gardens Today,

with your

family, friends, coworkers and fellow gardeners. and I thank you in advance for sharing us. If you go to our website, www.organicgardenstoday.com and you can click the “Share” button to share the website with your friends on any social media platform. If you already have, I thank you. We have grown more than I could have ever expected.

This winter issue is filled with useful and interesting information. Richard McCoy’s article, is something everyone should read. I like to think of us gardeners as “suckers”, meaning that every time we walk into a garden center they have everything that is in bloom right out front and we cannot help ourselves!! Before we know it we have a dying plant because we did not follow this one simple rule. Also of note is Cliff William’s article and the “truths” in the first few paragraphs (you’ll have to read it to understand!). I would also like to welcome a new writer, Christopher Adams, a fellow Delaware Valley College graduate (although there are a few years in between), who wrote . It really gives me faith in the future of agriculture when I read Christopher’s words. We just need to convince MORE people!

Have a great winter, read those gardening books and catalogs and we will see you in March!

David Daehnke, Editor

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MEET OUR WRITERS DAVID DAEHNKE, THE GARDENING GURU, EDITOR David is a seasoned gardener and lecturer, helping both the novice and experienced gardener. His fun and informative lectures are widely requested throughout the Northeast. Over the past 12 years, David has successfully managed three public gardens as Executive Director, but his true love is communicating proper gardening practices and creating gardens of beauty.

He received his B.S. Degree in 1984 in Ornamental Horticulture at Delaware Valley College. David is widely known from his radio show “The Gardening Guru” on WGHT 1500 AM, beginning it’s 20th season in 2014. He is a horticultural consultant on his Internet Web page, www.thegardeningguru.com.

MAUREEN FARMER Maureen Farmer is master gardener and the founder of The Farmer’s Garden website (www.thefarmersgarden.com). The Farmer's Garden is an online place to make in-person connections between gardeners across the US. Gardeners and want-to-be gardeners can search and post free classified ads to share excess homegrown produce, tools, or gardening space with people in their area. Food banks can post wanted classifieds for surplus food. She is an avid gardener and also a former Board member of Urban Oaks Organic Farm in Connecticut.

DAISY LUTHER Daisy Luther is a freelance writer and editor who lives on a small organic farm in the Pacific Northwestern area of the United States. On her website, The Organic Prepper, Daisy writes about healthy prepping, homesteading adventures, and the pursuit of liberty and food freedom. Daisy is also a staff writer at The Daily Sheeple, where she helps to “Wake the Flock Up”. You can follow her on Facebook, Pinterest, and Twitter, and you can email her at daisy@theorganicprepper.ca

RICHARD McCOY Richard McCoy is the principal owner of Mercer county New Jersey based company Richard A. McCoy Horticultural Services Inc. (www.mccoyfinegardens.com). Offering environmentally responsible fine-gardening design and organic lawn care that promote a healthy ecosystem at your home or business. Richard is a member of the Rutgers Organic Land Care Working Group and Board of Directors of the New Jersey Organic Land Care Association (NJOLA). Richard holds a certificate of organic land care through the Rutgers five day certificate course and is a certified Natural Turf and Landscape Manager through the New Jersey DEP. Richard is available via email at info@mccoyfinegardens.com.

CINDY MEREDITH Cindy Meredith is the owner of The Herb Cottage, a rural nursery in Lavaca County, Texas. In business since 1998, Cindy has a wide range of knowledge about gardening with herbs and adapted plants. The dynamic web site for herb and plant lovers is a handy source for growing information. Not just for Texans and other folks who live in hot, humid climates, the web site addresses all aspects of gardening.

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MEET OUR WRITERS CLIFF WILLIAMS Cliff Williams has worked 20 years in the frozen vegetable processing industry. He has been involved with everything from the dirt to the package you get at the store. He has also worked seasonally for 4 years in the fertilizer industry, as well as growing up gardening and gleaning. When you add in all the supporting research that went into creating Urban Crofting to his experience, you will find that few people have the unique insight into our food that he does.

STEPHEN SCOTT Stephen is the co-owner with his wife Cindy of Terroir Seeds, an heirloom seed company that not only provides quality garden seeds but helps customers improve their gardens and skills with a wealth of information not found anywhere else.

From his experiences in gardening, rangeland and habitat restoration Stephen has found that it’s not just about the seeds; the highest quality seeds are great, but there is room and need for more, much more.

Stephen has discovered a cycle to gardening that is not being addressed much today- soil education and awareness of its role and importance; the important role of quality seed and how they interact with the soil; the critical importance of micro-organisms that feed us all that many are not aware of; how to prepare the food grown from the garden and how it can all tie in together to markedly increase our health- all from our home garden. Visit their website at www.UnderwoodGardens.com.

CHRISTOPHER ADAMS Chris Adams graduated from Delaware Valley College in 2013 with a B.S. in Agronomy and Environmental Science. With a passion for soils he pursued a career with the USDA NRCS as a soil scientist. With unavailable funding for a sub-aqueous soil project, and the lack of job openings he decided to obtain a minor in Horticulture from Delaware Valley College during his senior year. This is when his passion for farming was created and still thrives today. By using the techniques and education received from Delaware Valley College he grows old school organic produce with new school technologies. He currently is the farm manager of Beach View Farms located in Manahawkin, NJ. For more information visit www.beachviewfarms.com

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* Amaryllis bulbs may be started now. If they are established bulbs in old pots, two inches of soil should be removed from the surface and replaced with a good, rich mixture. * Make sure the pots of forcing bulbs are full of roots before moving into sunlight, and make sure they are watered adequately for the best display. * Remember to set out your Christmas tree when the season is over for winter protection for the birds. * If you have brought in geraniums for winter color, they must be placed in a window that receives direct sunlight all day and a daytime temperature of 70 to 75 degrees is maintained. Keep in mind geraniums do not like to be over watered.

* Poinsettias often drop their leaves when the flowers begin to fade, which is usually a few weeks after Christmas. This indicates the plant is going into its natural resting period. * Do not water African violets from overhead. It is better to water a tray underneath the plant because overhead watering may contribute to crown rot of the plant.

After 1/2 hour, remove any excess water that may remain. * Hyacinths will flower on short stems unless the bud is made to develop in the dark. As soon as the young leaves start to unfold, and the buds appear, cover the pot with a cornucopia of paper or and inverted pot.

When they spike has reached the desired height, remove and enjoy.

* Never apply water to houseplants late in the afternoon. * When there is a warm spell and the ground is not froThe foliage should not be wet when night comes. zen, make sure you water foundation plantings that may have gone into Winter on the dry side due to the over* Be sure that all garden refuse that may contain any hang of your house. insects or disease is disposed of in the garbage and not the compost pile. * After each heavy snowfall, one should tamp the snow around the young fruit trees to protect them from mice, which work under the snow. * Newly planted evergreens should have the protection of a windbreak or anti-desiccant to protect from moisture loss. * If the ground is not frozen, newly planted evergreens should again have a thorough soaking of water. * Make sure that all bird feeding equipment is out and well stocked for the winter months.

* English ivies should have plenty of light but not too much heat at this time of year, so keep them off of radiators or other appliances.

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* Snow should not remain on evergreen hedges because when it gets wet and heavy during a thaw, it may break branches and leave the plant unattractive. Removal can be done lightly with a broom by starting from the inner part of the plant and pulling outwards. * Branches of Christmas trees can be used for a mulch over roses, bulb beds, rock gardens and perennials. The boughs make a light, airy mulch which is most desirable.

When warmer weather comes, simply remove and either chip them or clip them with your pruners and add to your compost. * The dormant pruning of ornamental trees and shrubs can be done at this time. Take a close look at the branching structure of the plant, and always remember to step back and look at the plant after each cut to see what has been removed and where the next cut should be. * Old Christmas trees can also be a good shelter for birds during the Winter, so don’t dispose of them so quickly. Prop them up close to a bird feeder so the birds have a natural hiding spot from any stray cats that may be in your neighborhood.

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Home Grown Gardening Tips (continued) * Plan to read a few gardening books this Winter as well as all of those catalogs that have come in the mail over the past few weeks. There is plenty to learn, even for the most seasoned gardener.

* Mummified fruits and cankered branches should be cut from fruit trees and discarded into the garbage (NOT your compost pile!) to prevent the spread of disease spores.

* Begin your gardening almanac or notebook at this time of year. Note temperatures, rainfall and begin to write down your plans for the new growing season.

This will be an invaluable resource for you in the coming years.

* This is a good time to prune grapevines and fruit trees, but not if the weather is extremely cold.

* Keep cacti and succulents in the house in a bright, sunny window. Poor drainage in the pots and over watering may encourage diseases. * Keep in mind that the leaves of plants breathe, and for that reason the broader kinds such as rubber plants and dracaena should be wiped with a soft, damp cloth. Even better is to place them in the shower and let room temperature water wash the dust off and give them a good soaking. Leave them in the shower for eight hours to completely drain and to enjoy the humid environment! * Flowering branches of various Spring blooming shrubs and trees like forsythias, apples and ornamental quinces may be cut now and wrapped in wet paper towels and stored in your basement for three to four days.

Then you can bring them into your living room and enjoy the blooms. The nearer to Spring you are, the easier they are to force. Branches of pussy willow can also be forced readily.

* Tramp down the snow around tree trunks so that mice may not make runs to the trunks and feed on the bark. * Most people think that no harm is done by crossing the lawn when the ground is frozen. However, if a beaten path is made in Winter, strips will be worn out beyond repair, and re-seeding as well as aerating will be necessary in Spring. * Make sure that you have an ample supply of bird seed in the feeders, especially when the ground becomes snow covered. Also, suet, peanut butter and similar foods that are high in protein will help keep the birds warm. The birds will also appreciate a water source. A bird fountain with a heater element will keep the water warm enough to keep it from freezing. Giving the birds a winter habitat will encourage them to stay during the gardening year and help you defend your garden against insects the natural way.

* Do not start your seeds quite yet. I know the urge to start them is great, but the earlier they are started, the taller and more straggly the plants will be when the time comes to plant them outside. Interior grow lights are helpful, but they can not replicate what the sun can give * In the event of mild weather, make the rounds of your them. Patience is a virtue, especially for gardeners! garden beds and gently press back into place any peren* When the weather warms for a day, go outside and nials heaved out by the frost. take pictures of your garden. This will not only show your garden “naked” without out all the pizzazz and * House plants require more attention now. Be sure that the air in your home (aka the Gobi Desert) is suffi- color of the growing season, but will remind you of any winter interest plants you may want to add during the ciently moist; give them plenty of light; water them spring for next winter. Add these ideas to your garden when needed, not “once per week”; wash them frequently to remove dust and insects; start to give them a journal along with the pictures for future reference. balanced fertilizer to bring them out of the Winter doldrums. On extremely cold nights, remember to pull the plants away from windows where the temperature is much lower than the inside temperature.

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Are you a gardening ‘expert’ that would like to write for us and help share the organic principles the magazine conveys? Whether you have a gardening degree from a college or you are “dirt” educated, send me an e-mail with the subject and article you want to cover. I will review and see if we can use it in the next issue. Please remember that the magazine will be online on or about the first day of the new season, so please address your article for the upcoming season and make sure it is sent at least two weeks before the publication date for formatting.

Send your requests to editor@organicgardenstoday.com We look forward to hearing from you!

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popcorn (Ga1S), which has been used for decades to reduce the risk of out-crossing in certain breeds.

Beginning in 2001, Kutka has been working on pollenblocking traits since his days as a graduate student at With increasing demand on the global market for food- Cornell University. He chose the name "Organic Ready" stuffs free of genetically modified organisms, U.S. farm- for his new breed as a parody of Monsanto's Roundup ers face a serious economic dilemma. Even those who Ready GMO crops. grow non-GMO conventional or organic crops are at risk for economic losses due to cross-contamination Kutka hopes to release Organic Ready seed varieties in with genetically modified pollen. Corn shipments reject- 2015. His breed won't be the first pollen-blocking corn ed by China, which were contaminated with the geneti- variety, however. Blue River Hybrids offers a corn stock cally modified Bt gene, have already cost American by the name of PuraMaize. Tests on PuraMaize have farmers over $4 billion since November 2013. Projecfound that harvests from 2012 and 2013 tested negative tions indicate that these losses will only gain momentum for GMOs at the threshold limit of 0.05 percent. Puraas more people wake up to the dangers of GMOs Maize is a patented trait that was licensed from Hoaround the world. Outright GMO bans have already gemeyer Hybrids in Nebraska. been implemented by several countries like France, Russia and China.

Kuta believes that farmers and corn breeders should have open access to Organic Ready corn. In order to Creative solutions are needed -- and soon. As luck prevent the seeds from being patented, they will be would have it, plant breeder Frank Kutka has been available to the public along with short publications in working for nearly 15 years to develop a breed that has the Maize Genetics Cooperation Newsletter. the ability to prevent cross-contamination in corn.

"These seed releases are to encourage others to work with this trait and for organic farmers to grow as they wish," he said.

Every year, U.S. farmers plant millions of acres of GM corn -- a staggering 93 percent of all corn crops in Learn more at Natural News America are genetically modified. For those who don't take issue with GM food, this fact isn't a cause for concern. But for farmers and consumers that would like to keep GMOs out of their fields -- and off their plates -- a whole slew of issues arise. One of the top concerns is Most of the world's food is not produced by industrial how to avoid the cross-contamination of non-GMO and megafarms. 75 percent of the world's food is produced organic plants by their genetically modified brethren. by 1.5 billion small farmers.

Considering that each corn plant produces millions of pollen grains, which in turn are carried by the wind to pollinate other corn plants, it seems nearly impossible to keep non-GMO and organic corn crops safe. But through traditional breeding practices -- and thoughtful innovation -- people like Kutka are making a difference.

The hunger problem is not caused by low yields. The world has 6 billion people and produces enough food for 9 billion people.

Finding inspiration in crops of the past, Kutka thinks he may have found the answer to cross-pollination issues in corn. Teosinte, an ancient relative of maize, has a pollen block trait (Ga2S) that makes it hard for GM pollen to enter corn silks. He's also focusing on a trait found in

Hunger and obesity are the result of the overproduction of toxic junk food, the scarcity of healthy organic food, and injustice in the way farmland and food are distributed.

There are now 1.02 billion hungry people in the world (nearly 50 million in the US). At the same time, there are 1 billion people who are overweight, many who are obese and suffer from diet-related diseases.

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(Continued) While many of the world's leaders discussed the food crisis at a UN Food Summit in Rome (November 1317, 2009), farmers, who were not part of the official delegations, took part in demonstrations outside the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) headquarters and met at an alternative forum, People's Food Sovereignty Now! The 642 participants (more than half women) from 93 countries represent the more than 1.5 billion small farmers who produce 75 per cent of the world's food.

Here's what they had to say:

- From the People's Food Sovereignty Now! Declaration, November 2009

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planting bed is rich in organic matter and has good drainage.

There are several factors that go into keeping you poinsettia alive and well. The poinsettia thrives on indirect, natural daylight. Exposure to at least six hours daily is recommended. If direct sun cannot be avoided, diffuse with a light shade or sheer curtain. To prolong the bright color of the poinsettia bracts, daytime temperatures should not exceed 70ยบ F. Avoid placing the plants near drafts, excess heat or the dry air from appliances, fireplaces or ventilating ducts. Remember that these plants were grown in perfect growing conditions, and our homes are far from that, and are more like a desert than a greenhouse.

The poinsettia is a photoperiodic plant, meaning that it sets bud and produces flowers as the Autumn nights lengthen. The plants will naturally come into full bloom during November or December, depending upon the flowering response time of the individual cultivar. Timing the bloom to coincide closely with the Christmas holiday can be difficult without the controlled environment of a greenhouse. Stray light of any kind, such as from outside street lights or household lamps, could delay or entirely halt the re-flowering process. Starting October 1, the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night. Accomplish this by moving the plants to a totally dark room, or by covering them with a large box overnight. During October, November and early December, the plants require 6 - 8 hours of bright sunlight daily, with nighttime temperatures between 60 - 70ยบ F. Temperatures outside this range may delay flowering. Continue the normal watering and fertilizer program. Following this regime for 8 to 10 weeks should result in a colorful display of blooms for the holiday season.

Poinsettias require moderately moist soil. As with all houseplants, water them thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Remove the plant from decorative pots or covers, and water enough to completely Lately poinsettias have been bred to incorporate many saturate the soil. Do not allow the poinsettia to sit in any colors and patterns, so there is much more variety than standing water, because root rot could result which the old fashioned red. Good Luck! could kill the plant. It is not necessary to fertilize the poinsettia when it is in bloom. , when the bracts age and lose their aesthetic appeal, usually by late March or early April, cut the poinsettia back to about 8 inches in height. By the end of May you should see vigorous new growth. Pruning may be required during the summer to keep plants bushy and compact, but do not prune after September 1. Keep the plants in indirect sun and water regularly.

Place your plants outdoors, where they can bask in the warmth of spring and summer, after outside night temperatures average 55ยบ F or above. Continue regular watering during the growth period. Fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks throughout the spring, summer and fall months with a well-balanced, complete fertilizer. Around June 1, you may transplant your poinsettias into larger pots.

Select pots no more than 4 inches larger than the original inner pot. A soil mix with a considerable amount of organic matter, such as peat moss or leaf mold, is highly recommended. If you wish, you may transplant the poinsettias into a well-prepared garden bed. Be sure the

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Let’s start with the problem and work backwards, to better understand what is needed for both an acute fix and a preventative approach for blossom end rot. Calcium is a very important part of the growth process for plants and the proper development of high quality, tasty fruit as it contributes to healthy cell wall growth, insect resistance and helps to regulate many cell processes.

Calcium is non-mobile in the plant once it is imported, meaning the plant can’t move it from one part of itself into the fruit, or from one part of the fruit to another.

Thus, the tomato or chile plant needs a continuous supply of calcium as it grows, flowers and produce fruit all through the season.

Blossom end rot affect mainly tomatoes and peppers, but can affect other fruiting crops such as eggplant, watermelon and summer squash. This is a perennial problem, meaning that as a gardener, you will deal with this yearly in your garden. There are two approaches to working with blossom end rot – prevention and reaction, or a primary and secondary solution. Unfortunately, most gardeners only realize they have a problem when the fruit are showing black spots on the end. This is the acute phase – once there are problems - and immediate action is needed to prevent further damage to fruit that is just beginning to set.

We will look at the underlying causes of blossom end rot, along with what happens and what can be done about it in the prevention as well as the acute phase.

As mentioned, blossom end rot will affect more than just tomatoes and peppers, but we will focus mainly on those as this is what most gardeners’ experience. Just tuck the other varieties into the back of your mind, and you’ll have a jump start if you see it strike them. In reality, the prevention will most likely have a beneficial effect for everything as you will be creating an environment that won’t support the cause of the problem!

Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of enough available calcium in the fruit at the blossom end. What most often alerts us is a black spot or patch at the blossom end of the tomato or chile, opposite of the stem. This black spot is a secondary issue caused by a fungus attacking the weakened fruit. Contrary to what many think, we aren’t aiming for the eradication of the fungus and resulting black patch, but fixing and preventing the cause of the problem. Correcting the underlying issues that lead to the weakened fruit will automatically prevent the fungus from being able to attack.

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Blossom end rot usually occurs early in the season with the first or second flush of fruit, just when the plant is at maximum growth and is putting on the first growth of fruit, with a second set of flowers on the way. It is in high gear and needs all of its nutrients available to be healthy, resist pests and disease, as well as grow lots of those delicious tomatoes and peppers we’ve spent so much time, effort and energy on. The key to preventing blossom end rot is to supply a sufficient, steady amount of calcium to the plant so it can be transported into the fruit continuously. Problem solved!

Not so fast, just how can we make sure that the plant has a steady supply of calcium?

Here is where we branch off into the two approaches – the primary and the secondary. The primary, preventative approach is to have enough calcium in the soil that feeds the roots and is transported to the fruit throughout the growing season. That calcium in the soil must be ‘available’ meaning that the roots can actually absorb it and transport it where it is needed. Available means that it isn’t tied up by another mineral or a pH level that won’t ‘let go’ of it. There is more to the story than just adding a calcium amendment to the garden bed!

A very good example of this is where we live in central AZ, there is a decent amount of calcium in the soil that plates out on faucets and glassware as a calcium deposit. Conventional wisdom says not to worry about calcium because it is everywhere. That’s true, but the challenge we have is the pH of the soil is fairly alkaline at 8+ on the pH scale, so the calcium is ‘tied up’, or not available to the plants. This is proven by the weed populations we typically see that only grow in calcium deficient soils.

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So what can be done? A comprehensive soil test is one of the best, first steps to take. This is much more than the simple NPK type of test done by university extension offices or the do-it-yourself test kits bought at the local garden center. A complete soil analysis is one that is collected and sent off to a recognized, professional lab that sends back a report on every mineral found along with recommendations on what direction to go and what nutrients to add in what form. They will usually cost from $25 to $75 range, depending on what analysis and information you need. There are several of these labs in the US; the two that we’ve worked with and are familiar with are Crop Services International http://www.cropservicesintl.com/ and Texas Plant and Soil Lab - http://www.texasplantandsoillab.com/. From this, you will have a very good indication of where to go next.

Fall is a great time to get your soil tested and amended in preparation for next spring’s season for a few reasons - the soil testing labs are generally not as busy, so results are quicker; and soil amendments will need some time to become integrated and available into the soil nutrients, so fall gives you the needed time, and it is easily incorporated into the traditional fall garden cleanup and prep.

Calcium is closely tied with magnesium, and this will be indicated on the soil analysis. More acidic soils, such as those generally found in the eastern states, will benefit from lime or calcium carbonate, while the more alkaline soils in the western states will need gypsum or calcium sulfate. Lime tends to raise the pH, while gypsum tends to lower it.

Water plays an often overlooked, but equally important, role in the blossom end rot saga. Inconsistent levels and rates of water will greatly vary the amount of calcium and other nutrients available to the plant, increasing the chance of diseases attacking the fruit like blossom end rot. This is one of the reasons we talk a lot about a drip system on a timer – it really helps even out the moisture levels in the soil and greatly reduces the stress on the entire garden, with the happy result of lowered amounts of nutrient and stress related problems. Of course, the weather can also play havoc with all of our carefully laid plans, as heavy and sudden rainfall can cause blossom end rot and splitting of tomatoes, along with a noticeable ‘wash-out’ of flavor and taste.

This is where the acute or secondary approach is needed. Calcium carbonate tablets, or anti-acid tablets

(Tums or the equivalent) work great when a couple of them are inserted at the base of a tomato or chile plant, where they will dissolve and make the calcium available to the plant in just a few hours, saving this flush of fruit if done right after the rains, or the next set if done when blossom end rot is first noticed.

Another approach is to feed calcium directly to the roots through the drip system as a liquid fertilizer, usually with calcium chloride or calcium nitrate. This approach works very well in offsetting one of the most overlooked causes of blossom end rot – great weather.

That’s right – excellent weather with moderate temperatures and lots of sunshine put the plants into overdrive, and their rapid growth can often simply outstrip the amount of available calcium in the soil, even if you have been proactive last fall. The calcium just cannot be taken up out of the soil fast enough, so feeding through the drip system can be a big bonus during these times.

The secondary approach will always be needed, even if you’ve done your homework and amended the soil the previous fall.

Calcium isn’t absorbed very well by the leaves of a plant, especially older leaves. The roots are much better at absorption, plus they can transport the calcium faster than through a foliar approach. For these reasons, stay away from trying a foliar spray to supply calcium to your tomatoes.

Blossom end rot won’t ever quite go away, because of the reasons you’ve seen here. With some knowledge and practice, you can easily create a much better environment in the soil that supports the plants much more fully and then use the supplemental approach to keeping the calcium levels high enough to minimize blossom end rot and keep more of your hard work for your dining table instead of as scraps for the chickens or compost pile!

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With all the buzz about the word organic, supporting organic and what the phrase organic truly means, there’s no one better to talk to than an organic farmer.

When consumers purchase organic products they often buy them because they simply know that “organic” means it is healthy. Whether because of a lack of knowledge or misinformation, the term “organic” is often associated with words like, healthy, chemical-free and free of fertilizers. Far too often the consumers don’t truly understand what the term “organic” means.

As a farmer, I’m here to explain what it truly means to be organic, and explain how it is more than just a marketable word, it’s a lifestyle.

When discussing the word organic there are three basic rules that apply to how the product was grown and or raised during its life to be considered “organic”.

1. When it comes to vegetables, the vegetable itself was grown from NON-GMO seed. That means the seed itself is not genetically modified in any way, shape or form.

2. The product was raised or grown using no Pesticides, Herbicides or Fungicides.

The word synthetic is capitalized because this is often the misconception among the public. The public sometimes assumes because the product is organic that it hasn’t been sprayed with anything, however; organic crops can be sprayed with natural, non-synthetic treatments. Some of these treatments are products such as neem-oil, certain horticultural oils, certain fungi such as and other products like diatomaceous earth.

If farmers didn’t take care of their crops with some means of pest and disease control, their yields and quality could possibly suffer.

3. The product was raised using nonfertilizers. Here again the word synthetic is very important. The crops raised by an organic farmer are just as dependent on the same nutrients as every vegetable or fruit is, whether they are grown conventionally or organically.

The difference is that organic farmers use natural fertilizers such as compost, fish emulsion, sea-weed extracts,

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bone meal, fish meal, blood meal and others to ensure the crop has the right amount of nutrients to grow to its full potential. A non-organic farmer often uses synthetic fertilizers made in a lab or from other sources rather than nature.

By following those three basic rules, although there are a few more, the farmer can then be certified to be called organic. Only these farmers are certified by an organization and have undergone the inspections to be considered organic or natural. Just because the consumer sees the word “organic” does not guarantee that the product is certified organic.

There are a few forms of certification, but the two main certifiers are the USDA Organic, and Certified Naturally Grown. To be sure that you are buying an organic/natural product always be sure to look for these logos.

Now that you know the three basic rules about being organic, let’s dig a little deeper and understand what practices must be used to be a certified organic farmer.

Along with following the rules set by the Certified Naturally Grown/USDA organization, organic farmers usually go beyond the rules set and it’s these extra steps that often make organic farms different that conventional farms.

Along with organic practices come sustainable practices like composting, soil and water management, integrated pest management, and soil fertility management.

As an organic farmer our number one resource is our land and soil. Conventional farms can pump tons of synthetic fertilizers into a barren soil and grow essentially any crop, but by no means is the soil healthy. Organic farmers pride themselves on the quality and health of the farm and its soil.

All fertilizers are not created equal. Synthetic fertilizers are normally used annually and have a short window in which the plant can actually use these fertilizers. Unlike synthetic fertilizers, organic fertilizers are slowly released into the soil and therefore allow the plants to use

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them when needed most throughout its life cycle. Organic fertilizers are also less likely to leach from the soil and stay in the soil longer, delaying the need to apply before every crop. In addition to all of this, organic fertilizers and organic matter also add to the soils Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), or ability to hold nutrients, making it even harder for nutrients to leach from an organic soil!

agricultural science, organic farmers can use IPM and scout the crop to see and determine if there are actually pests. If these pests are at a high enough threshold, then the farmer can take action using an organic solution.

Although organic farming may seem old fashioned to some of today’s conventional farmers, it’s the management of the ecosystem that sets us apart. Organic farmers rely on the ecosystem to help them farm, just the By using organic fertilizers not only are farmers ensurway nature intended. An organic farm is not barren of ing the plant has nutrients to uptake, but they are ensur- all life other than the crops that are being grown. Ining these additives are creating a healthier soil. Often on stead you will find buffer zones that do not get mowed an organic farm the soil is alive, literally, with thousands to help create an ecosystem of beneficial insects and of insects, microbes and earth worms creating a true pollinators. There is life on an organic farm, something soil, unlike the soil of a conventional farm that has been you normally don’t find on a conventional farm. rid of all life by pesticides and chemicals.

Organic farmers realize that there are more beneficial Organic farmers are often at the forefront of technology insects out in the field than detrimental, and that a weed in the agricultural world. They are the new younger in an aisle isn’t the end of the world. farmers, using the techniques that made farming work centuries ago, but simply add new agricultural science to keep up with the yields and quality of conventional farmers.

New age organic farmers often have agricultural degrees and understand how to guide Mother Nature not control her. By using new technologies such as drip irrigation, bio-degradable plastic mulches, and integrated pest management, organic farmers can conserve water and soil. No longer are organic farmers growing products and using the “calendar” spraying methods.

While every farm and farmer is different, every organic farm has one thing in common, and that is the presence of life and health among a natural and living ecosystem that creates the farm.

The calendar method is an old method that farmers used by simply spraying pesticides or fertilizers on a calendar basis, regardless of whether the product was actually needed. On the other hand, by using modern

As spirit lifting as an organic farmer can be, there are always struggles. Organic farmers still can’t control the weather, or the market of which he/she has to sell his/her product. Every farmer faces these struggles whether organic or not. While technologies are available to help combat the weather such as high-tunnels and greenhouses, the real struggle is the marketplace.

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The food market in the U.S.A is a difficult and often terrifying place to be. With so many supermarkets and chain stores it is hard for the small organic farmer to find a foothold in the ever changing food market. The need for education and buying local is at an all-time high. The consumers are used to buying products at a location which is not controlled by season or weather.

If consumers are educated about local products and seasons, then local farms will succeed, and hopefully more organic farms will pop up. More organic farms mean healthier food, and less demand and reliance on supermarkets and imported food.

Hopefully learning a little about organic farming from the perspective of the farmer has opened your eyes what it truly means to be organic, and in time you will adapt the organic lifestyle if you haven’t already.

cine confirms it. Time spent in the kitchen equals a better diet.

1319 participants in the Seattle Obesity Study answered questions about the amount of time they spend preparing food for their families each day, including prepping, cooking, and cleaning up.

16% spent less than an hour a day 43% spent between 1-2 hours per day 41% spent more than 2 hours per day Those who worked outside the home were less likely to spend time on food preparation. They relied on restaurant meals and convenience foods. Those who spent more time preparing food were also more likely to consume a greater proportion of fruits and vegetables.

Those of us who are proponents of whole foods and scratch cooking have known it all along, but a study published in the American Journal of Preventive Medi-

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Many of us lead very busy lives, what with activities for the kids, work, and other obligations. This doesn’t mean that you have to say goodbye to healthy eating. There are lots of ways to cut the time spent in the kitchen while still enjoying optimum nutrition, scratch meals, and yummy produce. When you are not in control of your food, you’re much more likely to consume additives, toxic chemicals, and GMOs. Even though I work

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from home, it’s rare for me to spend hours per day in (combine fruit and yogurt in individual the kitchen. Here are 5 of my favorite kitchen short BPA-free containers, portion out some granola to stir in cuts that allow me to step away from the stove while still at serving time) providing a hearty dinner for the family.

(Cooking meatloaf in a muffin tin makes perfect individual servings) (These can be loaded with veggies and cheese and baked in muffin tins for a super-fast breakfast on the go) When I worked outside the home, Sunday afternoon was always dedicated to weekly food prep. It was absolutely necessary to be able to juggle all of my responsibilities during the week ahead. Now that I work from home, I usually break food prep into two sessions, but the basic premise is the same.

There are a lot of time-saving benefits to this.

(the leftovers can be used in future meals) – I usually make at least one lunch box “treat” every week

You only have one big kitchen clean-up. The rest of the week your dishes only consist of your plates and flat(can be used in tacos or ware, and what you used to heat your food in. You can marinara sauce later in the week multitask by having several things in the oven cooking at (Use for one dinner meal and for sandonce – this also saves on your utility bill. You can also wiches and salad throughout the week) wash and prep all your produce at the same time, and (Just grab a handful and add protein and then just wash your colander and cutting board when dressing for an instant meal) you’re finished.

Throughout the week meals are strictly grab-and-go. If your food is already prepped, dinner can be on the table in 10-15 minutes every night.

If you enjoy canning, home-canned food is the ultimate pre-made food. Here are some delicious meals-in-jars recipes from my soon-to-be-published cookbook.

What does a food prep afternoon typically consist of?

Menu planning Washing and cutting up vegetables Washing fruit Portioning out snacks for lunch boxes Doing the baking Preparing some basic items that can be used in different ways throughout the week (chicken, beef, grains, salad) When you prepare your food ahead of time, dinner is on the table faster than you can say “drive-thru”. Your budget will thank you because you won’t require those impromptu pizza deliveries when you just don’t feel like cooking. Your waistline will thank you because you won’t grab high-calorie, low-nutrient convenience foods. Your health will thank you because you will be eating nutritious, wholesome foods from scratch that nourish rather than deplete.

Here’s an example of a weekly food prep at our house:

One of the most used appliances in my kitchen is the humble crockpot. There’s nothing like coming home after a long day to a mouthwatering aroma and dinner ready to be dished into a bowl.

Most crockpot meals require little in the way of prep time. You can often throw all of the ingredients into the crockpot in less than 10 minutes in the morning. Here are some of our favorite dishes: (you don’t have to precook the meatballs – just let them simmer in your favorite marinara sauce all day. When it’s time to eat, boil up some pasta and you’ve got dinner in 8 minutes.)

Again, it isn’t necessary to cook the meat ahead of time.

Place a slab of meat, cut up potatoes and carrots, and some onion and garlic into the crockpot. Add a cup of water, beer, or red wine, and salt

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and pepper to taste.

Top a pork roast with your favorite organic barbecue sauce and cook it all day. Serve with sweet and sour cole slaw.

Pretty much like pot roast, but smaller pieces and 2 cups of liquid It’s unbelievable similar to what you’d get at the grocery store – check out the recipe here. : Skinless boneless chicken breasts and a jar of salsa = perfect soft taco filling Don’t be afraid to adapt your own soup recipes for the crockpot. Nearly any soup is heavenly after simmering all day long. Just add delicate veggies and grains during the last hour.

You don’t have to spend big money on the fanciest crockpot around. Mine is an inexpensive model that I got when I gave my 18 year old crockpot to my daughter when she left for college. These suckers last forever.

If you have a larger family you can get a big 7 quart crock pot.

Lots of people either don’t have the time, the inclination, or the ability to cook. There are shortcuts you can take without sacrificing your help. If you have the extra money to spend, you can buy your fruits and veggies already washed and cut up. You can buy an organic rotisserie chicken.

Here are 99 ideas that are far healthier than ordering pizza or going McCrazy at a drive-thru.

This goes hand in hand with #1 and #3, but it’s a little more specific. When my kids were younger, they absolutely loved it when dinner was a “salad bar.” The only rules were that they had to pick one protein serving and 3 veggie servings.

ing calories. Here are some yummy salad bar ingredients: Greens (baby spinach, romaine, spring mix) Sugar snap peas Baby carrots (get the organic ones so they aren’t soaked in bleach) Cherry tomatoes Bell peppers Chicken breast Ham Boiled egg Kidney beans Shredded cheese Sunflower or pumpkin seeds Dried fruit

If you simply must eat out, you can make better choices than a bucket of KFC with all the fixings. Here are a few tips to help you choose wisely: Make your own meal from ala carte dishes. Sometimes when I go out for breakfast, I make my own meal with sides: an order of ham, an order of eggs, and an order of fruit.

– lots of empty calories and additives come in those fast-food buns or sides of garlic bread.

Opt for the meat and the veggies.

If you order pizza, top it with lean chicken and every veggie on the menu. Same thing goes for subs.

Forget the “light” dressings that are someone’s chemistry project. Get a simple oil and vinegar dressing, salad, and some lean protein Opt for fish or chicken. . Enjoy a stir fry loaded with veggies.

Choose better establishments. Instead of eating at places without good options, pick up dinner from the Whole Foods hot food counter or salad bar. Find some local favorites with a tasty, healthy menu for a go-to meal.

If you prep your salad bar choices ahead of time, dinner Ask for to-go container right away. As soon as they is as easy as pulling containers out of the fridge and lin- bring your food to the table, look at the portions. Is that ing them up on the counter. Wash and chop your veg- enough for two meals? (Hint: YES, it probably is.)

Dish out half to take home with you so that you aren’t gies and place them in individual containers. Precook your meat and cut it into bite-sized pieces. You can por- tempted to sit there and pick at it even when you’re full. old-fashioned health nuts. tion them out into individual servings if you are count-

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We need to reprioritize and spend time where it can do the most good – in the kitchen, as a family.

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There’s no denying the most important step you can take when designing a garden or landscape is the “right plant right place” approach. It makes no difference if you are designing grand formal estate gardens or a diminutive informal garden space. Most people have almost certainly heard of this way of selecting plants for landscapes. However, do we really understand what is involved when we make these assessments upon initial inspection of a site, at the drawing table and then ultimately at the time of placement and installation? Then there are the consequences of improperly placed plants that need to be replaced or sprayed repeatedly due to pest outbreaks on stressed and weakened plants.

posthole digger in multiple locations on a property.

Also during the course of the initial site evaluation, the identification of invasive species should take place. Included in the first phase of construction the identified invasive plant species should be removed as practical.

Once a project is completed, a site should be monitored for the reoccurrence or emergence of new invasive species and will need to be removed.

Before going further I would briefly like to mention some other considerations in the initial OLC site analysis and design phase. Particular attention should be given to the avoidance of monocultures, design to do no harm, water management, wildlife management, and of course using native plants and respecting local and neighboring natural/native areas.

My design experience, and most importantly my 30 years of field experience, has taught me to always work with the site conditions you are given. Attempting to force a plant design will lead to maintenance issues and poor plant performance down the road. The following are a few examples of improper plant placements and personal pet peeves. First, Azalea, Rhododendron and Pieris japonica (also mistakenly called Andromeda) planted in full sun. This is an open invitation for lace bug infestation and consequently years of pesticide applications to control a problem that will never go away until the plant is moved to a place better suited for its cultural needs. Another being, hosta in a southern, full sun exposure, in most cases this will lead to the plants The following course of action is from a professional’s burning up by July. How about turf grass under the perspective. These steps would also apply for DIY folks dense shady canopy of large trees? You add more seed and homeowners seeking a designer or landscape archi- and spend more money only to repeat this process petect. After you have met with a client and have gathered rennially. A solution I recommend quite often is moss all their needs, have a clear understanding of their goals carpet/garden or the installation of a shade garden. The and have set expectations for the project. The first stage following link describes the moss vs. turf scenario in to employ the concept of “right plant right place” is a detail concentrated initial site analysis. This should include: http://mccoyfinegardens.com/mossgardening.php). soil testing, both a complete soil bio assay and chemical Then there is the ever-present adding drainage for test are preferred. These are two of the most common plants. Long term this never works. Any type of aggretypes of soil tests. There are many other soil tests that gate, piping system or any other style of drainage over can be utilized to gather as much pre-design data as time, more times than not will become compromised possible. If a project’s budget doesn’t allow for a com- with roots and or soil/ sediment build up. Skip the extra bination of soil tests, then at minimum a thorough step of a drainage system and use plants that like “wet chemical analysis with organic matter levels should be feet”. Let’s take a look at River Birch (Betula nigra). performed. Perk test should also be undertaken to deThe name in of itself would lead you believe that they termine the drainage of a specific site. To accomplish a should be planted in wet a site. Yet time and time again perk test you don’t need a backhoe or excavator. A small I see river birch planted in a high dry site. Then at the scale perk test may be completed using just a manual How well your plants perform will greatly depend on whether or not you select the “right plant for the right place”. This approach requires an in-depth knowledge or at the very least the constant reference of plants and their culturally specific needs while at the design table as well as matching a plant’s needs to specific site conditions, seasonal changes and full size at maturity. Secondarily and almost equally as important is the implementation of proper planting and mulching techniques. However, even optimum planting practices will not help a plant to thrive if it is poorly suited for a specified site.

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first sign of drought the River Birch will begin to defoliate. This defoliation I have seen as early as the beginning of June. It is also important to know the mature height and width of selected plants so that they will not outgrow the intended space, which leads to unnecessary and improper pruning techniques. Many times you will see trees or large shrubs planted right next to the foundation of building. Using the River Birch for example, it will not be 10 -12’ forever. Their mature height in a properly suited location would be 40’-70’ with a spread of 40’-60’. GIVE TREES SPACE! Common sense and/or quick glance into Michael Dirr’s Manual of Woody Landscape Plants will tell you all need to know about the cultural needs and space needed at maturity for River Birch and many other trees or shrubs. All designers and architects should have a copy of this manual on their desks. It will benefit them greatly. I believe that some landscape architects and designers become comfortable with plant selections and just use what is familiar to them or what is available at the local nursery despite site conditions instead of reaching out beyond their comfort zone to utilize the full pallet of plants that are at their disposal. A follow up site visit six months to a year after completion to look at plant performance in the landscape is very important and will help with your own reflection on the success of the project..

Trees, shrubs and perennials obviously differ greatly by genus, species and even cultivar and in each individual plant is their ability to adapt to different site conditions. It is not only critical that you choose plants to match the existing growing conditions of the site. It is equally as important to match the cultural needs of the plants that will be planted together. Notice previously the word adapt is underlined.

When describing a plant’s specific cultural requirements. I suggest using the word “adapt” which has a pleasing and comfortable meaning as opposed to phrases like, (I am sure we have all said something like this when describing a plant to a client) “will tolerate full sun” or “can take sitting in water” These types of phrases have negative connotations and imply the forced application of a plant in an improper location, not a plant adjusting naturally to a location properly suited for it.

I would like to share a short story about why am I so resolute in my opinion about the “right plant right place method.” Prior to owning my own company I was a How much sun or shade your site receives property manager whose charge it was to maintain es● match plants to light conditions tate gardens and properties. At the time the designs ● plants that require full sun will not thrive in were hand drawn and looked amazing, true works of art shade on paper with remarkable attention to detail. Due to the ● plants that require shade conditions that are high quality of the drawing I believe it was easy to sell planted in full sun will undergo stress and will clients on the design without regard for what materialrequire pesticide applications to control opporized after the initial installation. However, once the intunistic pest infestations stallations were completed and it came time for the ● availability of sunlight, direct intensity and practical and functional side of the landscape to takelength of exposure over, the maintenance of the newly installed and visually pleasing, yet unfortunately short lived gardens became What soil conditions are currently on site exceedingly difficult. What was not seen by the owners ● soil type, drainage, compaction and level of orof this masterpiece work of art on paper was the strugganic matter gle we had keeping their properties up to a standard of ● match plants to existing soil and moisture condiquality meant for an estate residence. It is inherent in tions the nature of plants that are misplaced that they will be ● group plants together with similar watering reproblematic. This will lead to higher plant mortality, inquirements creased replacement costs and unnecessary pesticide ● don’t force plants into conditions they will not usage. All of which become unnecessary expenses to the adapt to contractor during the allotted guarantee and the homeowner after the guarantee has expired.

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Other circumstances to consider ● hardiness zone ● competition from existing vegetation ● exposure to wind and temperature extremes ● select plants for insect and disease resistance ● aesthetics of “finished” plants – mix up plantings so plants in a less attractive phase are disguised by plants in a more attractive phase ● proper spacing of adjacent plants for ample air flow to eliminate fungicide applications Plan for the future ● placement of deciduous trees and large evergreens should be placed for maximum efficiency ● shade trees (large deciduous) planted where the sun will shade the structures in the summer months, heat in the winter ● evergreens to provide wind break from prevailing winter winds ● take into consideration the plant size at maturity - proper spacing of young adjacent plants to allow for future growth ● above and below ground wires or obstructions ● proximity to structures

thrive in the conditions that are present on your property? Don’t change the naturally occurring landscape to suit your taste in plants. Challenge yourself to choose plants to suit your existing conditions. I would encourage homeowners who are in the process of designing a landscape that you do a little bit of homework and research the plants that your “design professional” is proposing for you. A little work here in the beginning will lead to more pleasing and restful weekends with more time spent enjoying your landscape as opposed to toiling in it. not to mention the financial savings over the long term. Additionally as an OLC professional, landscape architects and designers, it is well worth the effort to develop a greater understanding of the plants you utilize in your landscapes and stretch the boundaries of the pallet of plants that you design with on a regular basis.

We all know and accept that gardens and landscapes are not static they are ever changing every season seams to bring new challenges for us to adapt too. Plants that have been dependable and durable in the past, for one reason or another, may not survive after a particularly difficult season. Within these guidelines, you are encouraged to experiment with plants and their locations and realize that selecting the most well matched, right plants for the right places will pay off in the long run.

● decreased plant stress caused by the impacts of severe weather changes ● reduces the effects of disease and pest pressures, and ultimately eliminates the use of synthetic pesticides and fungicides ● long term plant care such as supplemental watering during times of drought may be minimized as a plant’s natural ability to adapt and overcome weather extremes is also elevated ● larger, healthier and more colorful, robust plants ● higher level of client satisfaction ● less expense on maintenance efforts to keep poorly performing plants looking good ● less expense on call backs for plant replacements Ignoring these guidelines in most cases will lead to increased maintenance, a failure of plants to thrive, and a majority of times result in a high mortality of installed plants. The practice of using the right plant for the right place cannot be stressed enough. Nothing could have more of an impact in the overall care and maintenance of a property then this approach. The key to good garden maintenance takes place in the design phase of the property or project. Why not select plants that will

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Cold Frames and Low Tunnels If you don't have the money , space or want to maintain a greenhouse or high tunnel, you can still extend your growing season or sow seeds outdoors earlier by constructing either a low tunnel or cold frame. Low tunnels are plastic row covers supported by metal or plastic hoops.. A cold frame is a bottomless box with a top that lets in light and can be opened or removed. The sides can be either solid or transparent. Both trap heat and shelter plants.

Cold frames are used to extend the growing season both earlier in the Spring and later in the Autumn.

They're a great place to start vegetables, herbs and flowers from seed. One advantage of starting tender seedlings in a cold frame instead of indoors is that you don't have harden then off.

You can use any sturdy material such as plywood, concrete blocks, stacked pavers, bales of hay or recycled aluminum storm windows for the sides. Old windows, a shower door, Plexiglas or a plastic sheet attached to a frame make great lids. Don't use an old window that may have been painted with lead paint over anything you plan on eating. The back of a cold frame is typically built about six inches higher than the front to allow more light to enter through the top.

Don't forget the open the top a few inches on sunny days when the temperature is over 40 degrees F. Even in the winter it can get too hot inside a cold frame. If you have hardy plants inside your cold frame, you need to be more concerned about overheating them than freezing them. Close the lid when the afternoon tem-

perature drops to trap the heat and keep your plants warm overnight.

If your cold frame becomes covered with snow, carefully brush off the top to allow light to enter. The snow around the sides will provide good insulation.

Low tunnels, also called quick hoops are usually between 14 and 18 inches tall in the center or tall enough to cover whatever is growing underneath. They're constructed from 9-gauge galvanized wire or 3/4 inch PEX plastic tubing that are bent in an arc over garden beds and covered with floating row cover or 3 mil plastic sheeting. The plants growing underneath are protected from harsh , cold weather. A single sheet of 3 mil plastic allows 70% of the available light through. In very cold climates, floating row cover can be laid over the plants under the plastic hoops for added protection.

Place each end of the hoop 6 to 12 inches into the ground on each side of a garden row. They can also be used in raised beds. Place the hoops between two and four feet apart, depending on how much snow you may receive. Use bricks, blocks or sandbags to hold the plastic or floating row cover in place. Gardeners in more moderate climates can vent the plastic to avoid overheating on warm, sunny days. The vents can be slits or perforations. Open the ends during the day when the temperature gets above 45 degrees F. Since seeds will not germinate if the temperature gets too low, plant them about a month before covering your low tunnels. More mature plants are more cold tolerant than seedlings.

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Plant and other frost tolerant Plant leafy leafygreens, greens,carrots carrots and other frost tolerant plants that do not need to be pollinated. Spinach, bac plants mache, that do not need toarugula, be pollinated. bachearty lettuces grow well under low tunnels. choi, claytonia, leeksSpinach, and some choi, mache, claytonia, arugula, leeks and some hearty I've had success using both cold frames and low tunnels in zone 5/6. I use my cold frame to start seedlettuces well under lings in grow March and my low low tunnels. tunnels to over -winter edible greens and leeks. I'm always happily surprised

to pull back the cover on my low tunnels and see bright greens leaves growing in the barren winter I've had success using both cold frames and low tunnels months. Plants grow very slowly under my low tunnels during the depth of winter because of the lack of in zone 5/6. I use my cold frame to start seedlings in sunlight. thetunnels days grow longer, things March andOnce my low to over -winter ediblereally greenstake off and I get an early harvest. and leeks. I'm always happily surprised to pull back the cover on my low tunnels and see bright greens leaves growing in the barren winter months. Plants grow very slowly under my low tunnels during the depth of winter because of the lack of sunlight. Once the days grow longer, things really take off and I get an early harvest.

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Winter Greenhouses Enjoying Your Craft All Year Long Most of this article is going to be on winter greenhouses but, I would like to start this article with just a bit on the symbiotic Nature of Gardening and the needs it fulfills. My articles are about gardening year round and the ways to make that happen, but it is always good to reflect a bit on the many hidden benefits of the hobby we love. These are the things we miss out on the other half of the year that we are not in the dirt.

One of the least known and considered benefits is the direct contact with the earth. We are hard-wired, built to need this contact, but our world has grown away from this. You might have heard about this, referred to by others as grounding. Our bodies are electrically controlled and they run better when grounded to the earth. This grounding is fairly new but generally unheard of because there is no money in it for large companies. You’re not going to see grounding commercials, and it probably won’t be on the shelves by Christmas. But there is plenty of information out there about it on alternative health sites. Most kits I’ve heard about rely on a grounding rod with a wire going to a pad where you sleep, but gardeners get it for free. It’s just part of the reason you feel good about gardening.

Another good reason to be gardening is to get the absolute freshest food. As far as purity in food goes, you know more than most that nutrition and chemical violation have just gone off the deep end, but freshness is another factor that is often overlooked. Food starts to decay the moment it is picked, and that is when it should be eaten, especially if you are trying to eat more raw foods. Fresh raw foods have a life force and an aura, just like we do; dead foods do not. Fresh produce in the store also has this aura but it is not as strong. It is not the aura we are seeking, but the life force that is generating it. As far as food goes we, as a society, have accepted what is profitable for big business where food is concerned, and the best produce in a store is considerably manipulated. There is also a spiritual aspect of food, and a very pure lifestyle in which each family grows their own food, but I’m not sure whether or not this is the venue for that.

But let’s get on to the business of winter greenhouses and getting that good life all year long. My article in

the fall 2014 issue of Organic Gardens Today, covered the building of a winter greenhouse well enough to get you started, so this article is a bit of extension covering some of the finer points. By the time you read this, we will be in the midst of winter and at a tough time to get started. The best time to be starting to both build and plant, is before the frosts show up. Below are several pictures of greenhouses I have just completed.

This example shows an existing standard greenhouse with fairly high sides that I remodeled to handle the cold of winter.

The problem is that the high sides create a lot of unused space that needs to be heated.

The solution was to hang a suspended layer of 6 mil sheeting as low as functionally possible and insulate the north wall. A barrel stove was also added. They had also recently remodeled their home, and there was used carpeting that we hung on the north wall for insulation.

These pictures are a great example of a winter greenhouse that I just completed. It is about 500 square feet, which is a great size for a family and is accessed through the attached garage. Besides being able to get to the greenhouse without going outside, it shares the heat with the house using a fan. The windows, doors and short wall were recycled, which brought the cost of materials down to around $3,000.

Now on to some finer points about growing in the winter. One of the first points is that you need to offset the lack of light from shorter days and cooler temperatures by planting earlier, and planting more than you normally would, but that also depends on what you grow. The beauty of growing year round is the perpetual harvest

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of food, and that will depend on the specific plants you choose. There are perpetual plants (indeterminate), and there are plants that need to be continually planted (determinate).

Certain plants react differently to growing in the winter.

Swiss Chard is a good example of a perpetual plant that doesn’t seem to care what season it is. Chard has become one of my favorites, and I am harvesting off of plants that I started the summer before last. It grew well in the cold, and it grew well in the heat of summer in a greenhouse, and it is doing just fine coming into another winter. It was very pest resistant and when it bolted, I cut it way back and it started all over again. I planted another half dozen pots of chard this summer just in case the other goes bad, but I’m kind of excited to see just how long it will grow. Generally you can plant your perpetual type plants any time during the year, even outside, and then move them into the greenhouse before frosts.

Kale grows well in the summer and through the winter, but once you hit spring time and it starts to bolt and go to seed, then it is done. In Tennessee all the plants related to kale, including broccoli, get hit real hard by worms in the late spring, summer and early fall. So, if you don’t like spraying, winter is the only time to grow these. Kale is one of my favorites, so I like to get at least a dozen pots of kale going in the fall.

Both Kale and Chard have a pretty strong taste, so I like to keep other lettuce varieties growing to mix with them. The problem with lettuce in winter growing, is that it bolts fairly quickly. For this reason, I plant a half a dozen pots of lettuce every two or three weeks. You will find other plants that just don’t like the low light of winter gardening either, such as cabbage; they grow real spindly like they were planted in the shade and reaching for the light.

Also, you’re going to like having a bunch of herbs in your greenhouse. So far I think Basil is the only herb I’ve found that doesn’t like winter in a greenhouse, or anywhere else. Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme, as well as Celery, Oregano and Onions (we harvest the greens) all do great. Soups and salads are legendary when you add a big handful of herbs. I also keep a couple buckets of carrots growing and add the greens to salads, which is very nutritious but kind of tangy.

As far as a greenhouse goes, having tomatoes is the big thing for me. Tomatoes and peppers like the heat and

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light, and have a tough time in the winter even in a heated greenhouse. The heat is the variable part of the equation, and growing them depends on your efforts to keep it warm enough. I usually don’t keep it warm enough and usually lose my tomatoes in January, but it depends on the winter. One key is to find an indeterminate variety.

An indeterminate variety is one that just keeps on growing and setting fruit. In the case of tomatoes, you always have blossoms and new growth and fruit in various stages of ripeness. A determinate plant is one that generally puts on all of its fruit at once and then dies off. Determinate varieties are favored where a mechanical harvest is concerned and usually produce more and bigger fruits. I like indeterminate varieties because of the perpetual nature of the growth. I have had tomato plants that were fifteen feet long before winter took them.

Broccoli can be fairly indeterminate and grows well in winter, just pick the main head when it is ready and the plant will start producing smaller heads off of branches.

The heads get smaller but more plentiful as time goes on. I also like to grow snap peas, they do well and the small leaves can be used in salads. I am constantly trying various varieties to see how they do, so have some fun and experiment a bit.

One last bit of advice is about germinating plants.

Seeds generally won’t germinate well if the temperature drops too low at night. You have a couple of choices, you can get them started in your house, or you can build a small greenhouse inside your greenhouse, and put in a small electric heater. I chose the latter, because we also foster cats for a cat rescue and they love to use my flats of seedlings for a litter box, so this protects the plants.

Any more advice at this point would probably be overkill, so in closing I just want to emphasize how important growing your own food actually is. A few years back, there was a French documentary that was about a big conspiracy having to do with the major corporations in the world and how they were purposely degrading the nutritional value of food, which has caused the huge spike of ill health in the world. Then they were cashing in on selling us the medicines that were to heal the diseases caused by the malnutrition. It is hard to say whether or not it is a conspiracy, or if they are

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taking advantage of a complacent people, but it really doesn’t matter. You need to look after yourself and your family, and not leave it to others.

For more information or help in designing a winter greenhouse, please check out my website Urbancrofting.com

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Peppermint Because the mints which make up Peppermint are themselves somewhat variable, not all Peppermint smells or tastes the same. If you find a Peppermint that you really like, the best way to keep it going is through vegetative propagation: stem or root cuttings, ground layering or division.

Hopefully, there will be new information for you long time herb lovers and for you who have recently discovered the wonderful world of herbs, some ways to use peppermint you weren't yet aware of, growing tips and other useful information.

Peppermint is a perennial mint with coarsely serrated leaves which can reach more than 2 inches (5 cm) in length. The stems are square and can be from green to reddish in color. The flowers are pink to red, form in the leaf axils of the upper leaves and are placed in whorls of loose spikes. The whole plant can reach to 36 inches (1 m) high in a favorable environment.

Mints in general are very promiscuous, crossing with each other when in flower at the same time. This habit can cause your mints to lose character over time, so if you have a mint you especially like, keep it isolated from its brethren, or you may lose the properties of it that you like the best. The following are either found cultivars or man-made ones that are popular.

True Peppermint is a sterile hybrid between Water Mint, and Spearmint, .

, - Hardy perennial grows up to 32 inches (30 cm) with an indefinite spread. Small, pale pink flowers. Large rounded leaves, oval, dark green, can be tinged with purple. Citrusy scent. ,

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- Hardy perennial

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(60 cm), leaves pointed, oval and toothed on the margin, dark plum brown tinged with green.

and you'll have a new crop to harvest.

, has very rounded, fuzzy leaves, grows taller than many other Peppermints and has a citrus-like flavor. , is a cultivar of Peppermint that smells and tastes somewhat of chocolate. It is a favorite for sauces to be served over ice cream. It has shiny, dark green leaves and dark stems.

Most mints are easy to grow and Peppermint is no exception. In fact, many people consider it a garden pest if it escapes into the landscape. Of course, that definition is in the eye of the beholder. If you really like Peppermint Tea or want to make Peppermint Essential Oil, you'll need lots of Peppermint leaves, so a rambling plant may be just what you need. If not, mints grow quite well contained in pots or hanging baskets. Peppermint likes cool moist roots and to grow into the sun. If you live in a desert area or the hot, humid Gulf Coast South, as I do, mints can tend to fail in the heat of the summer. My recommendation is to grow your mint where the plant gets morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in the summer. Under a deciduous tree is perfect-Winter sun, Summer shade.

If you're growing your mint in a container, you can give it lots of Winter and early Spring sun, then move it to a spot where it's shaded from the searing late summer sun. Or... you can move to Seattle or Milwaukee or Pittsburg and grow your mint in full sun where it will thrive and try to take over the neighborhood.

Peppermint is hardy to Zone 5 and grows in a wide range of soils. It likes water and does well where herbs that need better drainage will not do well. I've seen it growing happily under the drip of a room air conditioner or near a faucet in the garden. In containers, it still needs decent drainage. Don't neglect to water it.

For best results with Peppermint, it's best to divide and replant an established plant every 3 to 4 years. Cut plants back after flowering to encourage new leaf growth. Leave the flowers until they fade, though, as they attract butterflies and beneficial insects such as hover flies to the garden. In high heat areas, cutting your Peppermint back in late summer will cause fresh, new growth to come out once the fall weather arrives

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There are diseases which attack the Peppermint plant. , The worst seems to be a fungus, sometimes known as 'mint rust'. It causes rusty colored spots on the leaves which grow to take over the whole leaf. If you have this issue, it's best to destroy the plant.

Most home compost piles don't get hot enough to destroy the fungus, so it's best to bag the plant and place it in the trash. If you live where you can burn outdoors, one way to destroy the plant and sterilize the soil where it was growing is to cover the plant with dry straw or hay and set it alight. If you cannot do this, don't plant mint in the same area where the affected plant was growing. If rust occurs in a potted plant, toss the soil and sterilize the pot. Again, use the pot for something that isn't affected by the rust, just to be safe.

Peppermint is native to the Mediterranean and North Africa. In Ancient Egypt Peppermint was used to aid in the relief of stomach pains. During Biblical times it was used as a medium of monetary exchange and for payment of tithes.

In Greek mythology, the story of how Peppermint got its characteristics goes something like this:

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Minthe was a river nymph in the Cocytus River (one of the five rivers of Hades). When Hades was driving his golden chariot, he came upon Minthe and was about to seduce her when his wife Persephone caught them.

Persephone then turned Minthe into a lowly mint plant that people would walk upon. Mint supposedly got its pungent, sweet smell when Hades softened the spell so that when people walked upon his lover they would smell her sweetness.

and reduces the sensitivity of the receptors that perceive pain and itch. Menthol is also a counterirritant, an agent that causes the small blood vessels under the skin to dilate, increasing the flow of blood to the area and making the skin feel warm. When you apply a skin lotion made with menthol, your skin feels cool for a minutes, then warm, which is why it's used in rubs for sore muscles.

Menthol's anesthetic properties also make it useful in sprays and lozenges for sore throats.

from the particPeppermint gets the descriptor ular peppery, pungency that distinguishes it from other members of the mint family.

Peppermint Tea and mints have been served as after dinner fare not only to freshen the breath, but to also aid in digestion.

due to its bright aroma when crushed underfoot. Peppermint is said to lend an atmosphere of cheer and optimism, so a cup of Peppermint Tea is a refreshing beverage as a pick me up.

This practice would leave the table with a clean, fresh scent that would aid the appetite. It was also considered a mark of hospitality. , Peppermint animates and energizes the spirit, bringing a feeling of brightness and clarity. is said to relieve symptoms of fever: boil 1 pint water, add 1 tsp each dried peppermint, yarrow, elderflower, remove from heat, steep 10 minutes, strain and serve. It is a refreshing bath herb and can relieve rashes from chicken pox, while the analgesic properties help with body aches from fever.

- boil some water in a saucepan, add some mint leaves dried or fresh -place towel over the head and the pan and allow the steam to infuse your skin for about 10 minutes.

Peppermint contains menthol, among other essences, which is a mild antiseptic. It makes a good addition to a salve. It has many commercial uses as flavoring in toothpaste, soaps, indigestion tablets, candies, chewing gum, cough syrup and other preparations. Peppermint oil is used in rubs and liniments due to its effectiveness as a local anesthetic. It increases the sensitivity of the receptors in the skin that perceive the sensation of coolness

Peppermint has been found to smooth the long muscles surrounding the stomach and intestines, which is how it aids in digestion. It allows the stomach and intestines to do their job more effectively.

If you have access to lots of fresh peppermint, you can make essential oil. The leaves contain up to 4% oil, which can be removed by solvent extraction. Pick 2 cups of fresh peppermint leaves. Gently rinse them to remove any pesticides or spores. Pat them dry with a paper towel and allow to air-dry overnight on a rack (this prevents mold growth). Loosely fill a glass jar with leaves, then fill it with vodka. Close the jar tightly and keep it in a cool, dark place. Shake gently every day for two weeks, then strain into a clean jar. Use cheesecloth to squeeze extra liquid from the leaves. Discard the leaves, and put the jar of liquid in your freezer for three hours. The essential oil will freeze, the alcohol will not. Carefully pour the alcohol into a clean jar for the next batch. Store the oil in glass in a cool, dark place. Do not use it undiluted. Use the oil as medicine, as flavoring, or in soaps, perfumes, massage oils, and bath salts. : Make a strong infusion of peppermint by pouring boiling water over the dried botanical. When it cools, strain out the peppermint and add the liquid to a bucket of floorwash rinse water. Add vinegar. Cleanse the floors and threshold areas to radiate an invitation to happiness and good fortune.

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In the U.S., Peppermint is mostly used in tea. It makes a light green tea with a bright and minty flavor. It is easily combined with other herbs such as lemon balm, rose hips, hibiscus or any other herb you like to use in tea. It can also be added to black or green tea to perk up either hot or iced tea.

Many people find the spicy flavor of Peppermint too strong in uncooked foods, such as Tabouleh, for instance, the Middle Eastern popular bulgher wheat dish, where Spearmint is a better choice. But Peppermint does well in cooked dishes and drinks.

3 young fennel leaves 1 fist full of lemon thyme and winter savory 8 allspice berries 1/2 tsp coriander seeds (crushed slightly) 1/2 tsp dried orange peel 2 cups sugar Mix all ingredients in glass jar and steep for 4-6 weeks.

Stir or shake daily until sugar is dissolved. Strain, decant and re bottle. This has sugar added with the herbs and spices. It's a little sweeter and thicker. Serve it mixed 50/50 with brandy on ice. (The Madison Herb Society Cookbook)

4 cup all purpose flour 1 3/4 cup cocoa 2 1/2 cup sugar 1 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/2 cup ground dried peppermint or 3/4 cup finely minced and crushed fresh peppermint 1 1/3 cup oil 4 eggs 1 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 1/2 cup mini-chocolate chips

Whether you grow herbs for culinary use, medicinal or health reasons, to attract beneficial insects to your garden or as ornamentals, Peppermint deserves a place in your garden. It's bright and cheery aroma can be had simply by plucking a leaf, crushing it between your fingers and holding it to your nose. If your garden is formal in appearance, Peppermint still has a place in a container. Trimmed occasionally, it has a lovely appearance. The crinkled, dark green leaves add interest to the garden palette. I hope you find your way to adding Peppermint to your herb collection.

Mix together flour, cocoa, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, peppermint (if using dry) and chocolate chips.

Set aside. Mix together peppermint (if using fresh) oil, eggs, buttermilk and vanilla. Pour wet ingredients into the dry and mix all together just till moistened.

Fill paper lined or greased muffin cups 3/4 full.

Bake at 375F just till tops spring back 15-20 minutes.

Test often as the "brown" muffin color doesn't show if it is overbaked. Makes 18. (Madison Herb Society Cookbook)

You'll be glad you did.

Bibliography: Big Book of Herbs, Tom DiBaggio, Art O. Tucker Wild and Weedy Apothecary, Doreen Shababy http://peppermint.indepthinfo.com 2013 Herbalpedia, Herb Growing & Marketing Network, Maureen Rogers, herbadpedia.com

1 fifth brandy 1 sprig (large) sweet basil with flowers 1 sprig parsley 1 sprig (small) lovage 8-10 sprigs peppermint 1 sprig (leaves only) bee balm 1 sprig (leaves only) pineapple sage 4 sprigs spearmint 1 fresh bay leaf 3 sprigs oregano with flowers

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