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Chicago
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Chicago
Chicago’s Top 10
What’s New
Need to Know
Top Itineraries
If You Like...
Month By Month
With Kids
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
LGBTI+ Chicago
EXPLORE CHICAGO
NEIGHBORHOODS AT A GLANCE
THE LOOP
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
NEAR NORTH & NAVY PIER
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
GOLD COAST
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
LINCOLN PARK & OLD TOWN
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
LAKE VIEW & WRIGLEYVILLE
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
ANDERSONVILLE & UPTOWN
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
LINCOLN SQUARE & RAVENSWOOD
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
WICKER PARK, BUCKTOWN & UKRAINIAN VILLAGE
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
LOGAN SQUARE & HUMBOLDT PARK
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
WEST LOOP & NEAR WEST SIDE
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
PILSEN & NEAR SOUTH SIDE
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
HYDE PARK & SOUTH SIDE
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
DAY TRIPS FROM CHICAGO
Oak Park
Indiana Dunes
Milwaukee
Saugatuck & Douglas
Galena
SLEEPING
UNDERSTAND CHICAGO
Chicago Today
History
Architecture
Sports
Chicago Dining
Music & the Arts
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Transportation
ARRIVING IN CHICAGO
O’Hare International Airport
Midway International Airport
Train Bus
Car & Motorcycle
GETTING AROUND
Bicycle
Boat Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Pedway
Taxi & Rideshare
Train
TOURS
Directory A–Z
Accessible Travel
Customs Regulations
Discount Cards
Electricity
Emergency
Internet Access
Legal Matters
Medical Services
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Safe Travel Taxes
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Visas
Chicago Maps
The Loop
South Loop
Navy Pier
Near North
Gold Coast
Lincoln Park & Old Town
Lake View & Wrigleyville
Andersonville & Uptown
Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukranian Village
Logan Square & Humboldt Park
West Loop & Near West Side
Near South Side
Pilsen
Bridgeport & Bronzeville
Hyde Park & South Side
Lincoln Square & Ravenswood
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Chicago
Art & Architecture
It’s hard to know what to gawk at first. High-flying architecture is everywhere, from the stratospheric, glass-floored Willis Tower to Frank Gehry’s swooping silver Pritzker Pavilion to Frank Lloyd Wright’s stainedglass Robie House. Whimsical public art studs the streets; you might be walking along and wham, there’s an abstract Picasso statue that’s not only cool to look at, but you’re allowed to go right up and climb on it. For art museums, take your pick: impressionist masterpieces at the massive Art Institute, psychedelic paintings at the midsized Museum of Mexican Art or outsider drawings at the small Intuit gallery.
Chowhounds’ Delight
Loosen your belt – you’ve got a lot of eating to do. On the menu: peanutbutter-and-banana-topped waffles for breakfast (at Stephanie Izard’s Little Goat), pork-shoulder posole and garlicky yucca enchiladas for lunch (at Dove’s Luncheonette) and fine dining on foraged foods for dinner (at Iliana Regan’s Elizabeth). You can also chow down on a superb range of global eats from Vietnamese pho to Mexican carnitas, Polish pierogi and Macanese fat rice. Still hungry? Order a late-night deep-dish pizza or seek out a hot and spicy Italian beef sandwich at a local fast-food joint.
Sports Fanatics
Chicago is a maniacal sports town, with a pro team for every season (two teams, in baseball’s case). Watching a game is a local rite of passage, whether you slather on the blue-and-orange body paint for a Bears football game, join the raucous baseball crowd in Wrigley Field’s bleachers, or plop down on a bar stool at the neighborhood tavern for whatever match is on TV. Count on making lots of spirited new friends. Should the excitement
rub off and inspire you to get active yourself, the city’s 26 beaches and 580 parks offer a huge array of play options.
Rollicking Festivals
Chicago knows how to rock a festival. Between March and September it throws around 200 shindigs. The specialty is music. Blues Fest brings half a million people to Millennium Park to hear guitar notes slide and bass lines roll, all for free. During the four-day Lollapalooza megaparty, rock bands thrash while the audience dances in an arm-flailing frenzy. Smaller, barbecue-scented street fests take place in the neighborhoods each weekend – though some rival downtown for star power on their stages (oh, hey, Olivia Newton-John at Northalsted Market Days).
Chicago Theatre | DANIEL KLOE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Chicago
By Karla Zimmerman, Writer
I’ve lived in Chicago for almost 30 years, and the skyline still kills me. Every time I take the train toward downtown it’s like the buildings suddenly pop up and expand storybook-style. I never get bored here; there’s something groovy happening nightly. Like tonight: should I listen to an Afrobeat ensemble playing at SummerDance, see free improv at the neighborhood dive bar, or watch a musical about the bubonic plague at a storefront theater? Mostly I love how total strangers watching a Cubs or Hawks game in a bar become high-fiving pals by evening’s end. For more, see Our Writers
Art Institute of Chicago
1 Chicago’s Top 10
The second-largest art museum in the country, the Art Institute houses a treasure trove from around the globe. The collection of impressionist and postimpressionist paintings is second only to those in France, and the number of surrealist works is tremendous. Wander the endless marble and glass corridors, and rooms stuffed with Japanese prints, Grecian urns, suits of armor, Grant Wood’s American Gothic, Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks and one very big, dotted Seurat. The Modern Wing dazzles with Picassos and Mirós.
The Deering Family Galleries of Medieval & Renaissance Art, Arms & Armor | ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO ©
2 Global Eats
In recent years chefs such as Grant Achatz, Rick Bayless and Stephanie Izard put Chicago on the culinary map winning a heap of James Beard awards. Suddenly international critics were dubbing Chicago one of the globe’s top eating destinations. The beauty is that even the buzziest restaurants are accessible: visionary yet traditional, pubby at the core and decently priced. Chow down on a range of global eats in Chicago’s neighborhoods, from Puerto Rican jibaritos (steak covered in garlicky mayo and served between thick, crispy-fried plantain slices) to Indian samosas to Polish pierogi.
ZI3000 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Millennium Park
The playful heart of the city, Millennium Park shines with whimsical public art. Go ahead, walk under Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate – aka ‘the Bean’ – and touch its silvery smoothness. Let the human gargoyles of Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain gush water on you to cool down in summer. Unfurl a blanket by Frank Gehry’s swooping silver band shell as the sun dips, wine corks pop and gorgeous music fills the twilight air. Or try to find the secret garden abloom with prairie flowers and a wee, gurgling river.
Architecture Cruises
Who cares if all the backward neck-bending causes a little ache? There’s no better way to feel Chicago’s steely power than from low
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JULIEN HAUTCOEUR / GETTY IMAGES ©
4on the water looking up while cloud-poking towers glide by and iron bridges arch open to lead the way. The skyline takes on a surreal majesty as you float through its shadows on a river tour, and landmark after eye-popping landmark flash by. Guides’ architecture lessons carry on the breeze, so you’ll know your beaux art from International style by day’s end.
ELESI /
SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Blues & Rock
In Chicago no genre is as iconic as the blues – the electric blues, to be exact. When Muddy Waters and friends plugged in their amps c 1950, guitar grooves reached new decibel levels. Hear it in clubs around town, such as Buddy Guy’s Legends, where the icon himself still takes the stage, or Rosa’s Lounge, where it’s a bit more down and dirty. The blues paved the way for rock and roll, so no surprise cool little clubs hosting edgy indie bands slouch on many a street corner.
/ CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES ©
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James ‘Blood’ Ulmer | PAUL NATKIN
Public Art
You can’t walk two blocks downtown without bumping into an extra-ordinary sculpture. The granddaddy is Picasso’s untitled sculpture (what the heck is it – an Afghan hound?), set smack in Daley Plaza. Jean Dubuffet’s abstract creation is officially titled Monument with Standing Beast but everyone calls it ‘Snoopy in a Blender.’ Marc Chagall’s grand mosaic Four Seasons is more recognizable, depicting Chicago scenes. And Alexander Calder’s hulking, red-pink Flamingo could indeed pass for its namesake, but only after you’ve had a few beers.
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AMADEUSTX / SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ARTWORK: © JEAN DUBUFFET / ADAGP. COPYRIGHT AGENCY, 2019
7 Sky-High Views
For superlative seekers, Willis Tower is it: the city’s tallest building (and one of the world’s loftiest). Breathe deeply during the ear-popping, 70-second elevator ride to the 103rd-floor Skydeck, then stride to one of the glass-enclosed ledges that jut out in midair. Look down some 1400ft. Crikey. The lakeside 875 N Michigan Ave building (formerly known as the Hancock Center) also rises high in the sky Ascend to the 96th-floor Signature Lounge, order a cocktail and watch the city sparkle around you. It’s especially lovely at night.
SBYTOVAMN / GETTY IMAGES © Comedy & Theater
8A group of jokesters began performing intentionally unstructured skits in a Chicago bar a half century ago, and voilà – improv comedy was born. Second City still nurtures the best in the biz, though several other improv theaters also work from boozefueled suggestions that the audience hollers up. Among the city’s 200 theaters are powerhouse drama troupes such as Hollywoodstar-laden Steppenwolf and Goodman Theatre, and heaps of fringey, provocative ‘off-Loop’ companies, such as the Neo-Futurist Theater, which bases its admission cost on a dice roll.
PAUL WARNER / CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES ©
Wrigley Field
A tangible sense of history comes alive at this 100-plus-year-old baseball park, thanks to the hand-turned scoreboard, iconic neon entrance sign, legendary curses and time-honored traditions that infuse games played here. Shoveling down hot dogs and drinking beer in the raucous bleachers makes for an unforgettable afternoon. The area around the stadium is like a big street festival on game days: young people party in alfresco bars, kids lick ice-cream cones, and die-hard fans occupy stools in age-old, sticky-floored taverns.
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