Lonely planet chicago zimmerman

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Lonely Planet Chicago Zimmerman

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Chicago

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Chicago

Chicago's Top 10

What's New

Need to Know

Top Itineraries

If You Like...

Month By Month

With Kids

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Gay & Lesbian Chicago

EXPLORE

NEIGHBORHOODS AT A GLANCE

THE LOOP

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

NEAR NORTH & NAVY PIER

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

GOLD COAST

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

LINCOLN PARK & OLD TOWN

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

LAKE VIEW & WRIGLEYVILLE

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

ANDERSONVILLE & UPTOWN

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

WICKER PARK, BUCKTOWN & UKRAINIAN VILLAGE

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

LOGAN SQUARE & HUMBOLDT PARK

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

NEAR WEST SIDE & PILSEN

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

SOUTH LOOP & NEAR SOUTH SIDE

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

HYDE PARK & SOUTH SIDE

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

DAY TRIPS FROM CHICAGO

Oak Park

Indiana Dunes

Milwaukee

Saugatuck & Douglas

Galena

SLEEPING

UNDERSTAND

Understand Chicago

Chicago Today

History

Architecture

Sports

Chicago Dining

Music & the Arts

SURVIVE

Transportation

Arriving in Chicago

Getting Around Chicago

Tours

Directory A–Z

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Emergency

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Medical Services

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Travelers with Disabilities

Visas

Chicago Maps

The Loop

Near North

Navy Pier

Gold Coast

Lincoln Park & Old Town

Lake View & Wrigleyville

Andersonville & Uptown

Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village

Logan Square & Humboldt Park

Near West Side & Pilsen

South Loop & Near South Side

Lincoln Square

Bridgeport & Bronzeville

Hyde Park & South Side

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Behind the Scenes

Our Writer

Welcome to Chicago

Steely skyscrapers, top chefs, rocking festivals – the Windy City willblowyou away withits low-key culturedawesomeness.

Art & Architecture

It's hard to know what to gawp at first. High-flying architecture is everywhere, from the stratospheric, glass-floored Willis Tower to Frank Gehry's swooping silver Pritzker Pavilion to Frank Lloyd Wright's stained-glass Robie House. Whimsical public art studs the streets; you might be walking along and wham, there's an abstract Picasso statue that's not only cool to look at, you're allowed to go right up and climb on it. For art museums, take your pick: impressionist masterpieces at the massive Art Institute, psychedelic paintings at the mid-sized Museum of Mexican Art or outsider drawings at the small Intuit gallery.

Chowhounds' Delight

Loosen your belt – you've got a lot of eating to do. On the menu: peanut-butter-and-banana-topped waffles for breakfast (at Stephanie Izard's Little Goat), a chicken, apple and cranberry hot dog for lunch (at Hot G Dog), and 20 courses of centrifuged, encapsulated molecular gastronomy for dinner (at Grant Achatz' Alinea).

You can also chow down on a superb range of ethnic eats from Vietnamese pho to Mexican carnitas, Polish pierogi and Swedish almond tarts. Still hungry? Order a late-night deep-dish pizza.

Sports Fanatics

Chicago is a maniacal sports town, with a pro team for every season (two teams, in baseball's case). Watching a game is a local rite of passage, whether you slather on the blue-and-orange body paint for a Bears football game, join the raucous baseball crowd in Wrigley Field's bleachers, or plop down on a bar stool at the neighborhood

©
Pritzker Pavilion | ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/GETTY IMAGES

tavern for whatever match is on TV. Count on making lots of spirited new friends. Should the excitement rub off and inspire you to get active yourself, the city's 26 beaches and 580 parks offer a huge array of play options.

Rollicking Festivals

Chicago knows how to rock a festival. Between March and September it throws around 200 shindigs. The specialty is music. Blues Fest brings half a million people to Grant Park to hear guitar notes slide and bass lines roll, all for free. During the three-day Lollapalooza mega-party, rock bands thrash while the audience dances in an arm-flailing frenzy. Smaller, barbecue-scented street fests take place in the neighborhoods each weekend – though some rival downtown for star power on their stages (oh, hey, Olivia Newton-John at Northalsted Market Days).

Why I Love Chicago

I've lived in this city for 25 years, and I never get bored. There's something groovy going on any night of the week. Like tonight: should I see the Grant Park Orchestra playing Shostakovich's Fifth Symphony in Millennium Park, or a guitar-drum duo called Earring at Empty Bottle? I love that Tibetan dumplings, Mexican carnitas and crème brûlée doughnuts are all equally, easily accessible from local eateries. I love how total strangers sitting next to each other in a bar watching a Blackhawks game become high-fiving pals by evening's end. Chicago really is my kind of town.

Art Institute of Chicago

1 Chicago's Top 10

The second-largest art museum in the country, the Art Institute houses a treasure trove from around the globe. The collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings is second only to those in France, and the number of surrealist works is tremendous. Wander the endless marble and glass corridors, and rooms stuffed with Japanese prints, Grecian urns, suits of armor, Grant Wood's American Gothic,Edward Hopper's Nighthawksand one very big, dotted Seurat open up. The Modern Wing dazzles with Picassos and Mirós.

1TheLoop

FRANZ MARC FREI/LOOK-FOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Chicago's Top 10 Millennium Park

2

The playful heart of the city, Millennium Park shines with whimsical public art. Go head, walk under Anish Kapoor's Cloud Gate– aka 'the Bean' – and touch its silvery smoothness. Let the human gargoyles of Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain gush water on you to cool down in summer. Unfurl a blanket by Frank Gehry's swooping silver band shell as the sun dips, wine corks pop and gorgeous music fills the twilight air. Or try to find the secret garden abloom with prairie flowers and a wee, gurgling river.

1TheLoop

Pritzker Pavilion | F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Chicago's Top 10

Sky-High Views

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For superlative seekers, Willis Tower is it: the city's tallest building (and one of the world's loftiest). Breathe deeply during the ear-popping, 70-second elevator ride to the 103rd-floor Skydeck, then stride to one of the glass-enclosed ledges that juts out in midair. Look down some 1400ft. Crikey. The lakeside John Hancock Center also rises high in the sky. Ascend to the 96th-floor Signature Lounge, order a cocktail and watch the city sparkle around you. It's especially lovely at night.

1TheLoop

View from Willis Tower | J.V.CASTRO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Chicago's Top 10

Wrigley Field

4

A tangible sense of history comes alive at this 100-plus-year-old baseball park, thanks to the hand-turned scoreboard, iconic neon entrance sign, legendary curses and time-honored traditions that infuse games played here. No matter that the hapless Cubbies haven't won a championship since 1908 – shoveling down hot dogs and drinking beer in the raucous bleachers makes for an unforgettable afternoon. No tickets? No worries. Peep in the 'knothole,' a garage-door-sized opening on Sheffield Ave, to watch the action for free.

2LakeView&Wrigleyville

Chicago's Top 10

Architecture Cruises

5

Who cares if all the backward neck-bending causes a little ache? There's no better way to feel Chicago's steely power than from low on the water looking up while cloud-poking towers glide by and iron bridges arch open to lead the way. The skyline takes on a surreal majesty as you float through its shadows on a river tour, and landmark after eye-popping landmark flashes by. Guides' architecture lessons carry on the breeze, so you'll know your beaux arts from International style by day's end.

2Transportation

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