Seed Starting

Seed Starting

Direct Seeding Pros Cost: $2-3/seed pack, with dozens to hundreds of seeds per pack Transplant shock: some plants cannot handle being transplanted, and must be direct seeded (root crops esp.; beans; peas; cucurbits; okra) Ease of growing: sprinkle or plant seeds and water. No need for indoor growing infrastructure/materials.

Root development: roots grow fast and extensive when seeded, and are able to find nutrients better.

Cons Thinning: Seedlings will inevitably need thinning, which is time-consuming Germination: seeds don’t always sprout because of outside conditions Damping off disease: Slow growing plants from seed have more chance of dying from damping-off disease

Transplanting Pros Aesthetics: makes the garden look full and beautiful quickly Faster harvests: transplants will have 2-10 weeks earlier maturity date than those grown from seeds Pest control: transplants will be stronger and more able to fight off pests and weeds than slow-growing plants from seed.

Cons Infrastructure: requires proper indoor growing conditions and costs that may be prohibitive.

Transplant shock: Regardless of the plant, careful consideration of outdoor conditions and plant handling will dictate if plant lives after transplanting Hardening-off: Transplants need extra time to acclimate to outside conditions, and may need to be stored indoors briefly Cost: buying plants may cost $1-4 per plant.

Spring Crops to Start in the Late Winter

•Asian greens •Brussels sprouts •Broccoli •Cabbage •Cauliflower •Lettuce •Collard greens •Kale •Leeks •Onions •Swiss chard

Summer Crops to Start in the Early Spring

•Tomatoes •Eggplant •Peppers

Summer Crops to Start in the Mid-Late Spring

•Cucumbers •Squash (winter and summer) •Melons

•Brussels sprouts •Broccoli •Cabbage •Cauliflower

Fall Crops to Start Now

Warm Season

Cool Season‌Spring and Fall

Heirloom: passed down over 50

or more years by gardeners. Seeds are generated from open-pollinated methods, meaning from flowers pollinated by air, insect, or by hand. Seeds will be true every generation.

Hybrid: bred for specific traits, such

as disease resistance or drought tolerance. Seeds from parents will not be true. F1 considered first hybrid between plants of varying qualities.

Seedling Mix Components

Peat Moss: provides bulk; absorbs and retains water; moisture wicking.

Coconut Coir: provides similar characteristics to peat.

Compost/Leaf Mold: provides nutrients; microorganisms; porosity.

Topsoil (sterile): retains water and provides some nutrients; requires drainage material to ensure air space is sufficient.

Perlite/Vermiculite/Rice Hulls: necessary drainage/porosity and air spaces for mix.

Builders/Coarse sand: similar to above; unable to hold nutrients.

Worm Castings: similar characteristics to compost; source of nutrients.

Similar to soil texture and may decrease pore space.

Fertilizers/Other components: Limestone (offsets acidity from peat moss); bone meal (phosphorus/root growth); blood meal (nitrogen/plant and leaf growth); greensand (phosphorus/potassium); etc.

Granulated fertilizers allow for slow release of nutrients.

No Garden Soil! •May harbor diseases; compact and decrease pore spaces

Seedling Mix Components

Coconut Coir

Peat Moss

Perlite

Rice Hulls

Worm Castings

Leaf Mold

Vermiculite

Seedling Mix Components

Limestone Pre-mixed potting soils

Organic/nutrient material

Moisture retention

Organic liquid fertilizers

Drainage material/pore spaces

Seedling Mix Recipes

Peat Moss (screened)

1 6 cu. ft wheelbarrow

Worm Castings (screened)*

2-30 lb bags

Perlite…

Bone Meal

Dolomite lime

1 6 cu. ft wheelbarrow

…Or, Rice Hulls ¾ wheelbarrow

Gateway Greening mix

1 Quart 1 Quart

Mix is misted/pre-wetted before adding to seedling trays and containers *Worm castings similar to mud when wet and may act to decrease pore spaces.

Vermiculite/Perlite Peat moss

Limestone

Superphosphate

General gardener fertilizer (5-10-10)

Texas A & M mix

Seedling Mix Recipes 1 bushel

Peat Moss

45%

5 tablespoons

Dolomite lime

2 cups

1 bushel

10 tablespoons 1 cup

Compost (sterile) Perlite

Peat Moss

Compost (sterile) Perlite

45% 10%

1 part 1 part 1 part

Peat moss and coconut coir are naturally hydrophobic. Wetting agents assist is absorption of water when material is dry. ½-1 teaspoon dish detergent per ½ gallon room temperature water can perform this function.

Seedling Materials

Light: Fluorescent

Light: 12-16 hours

Light is only required after seedling germination. Most seeds don’t need light to germinate.

Potting Mix

Humidity/Warmth Trap: optional; creates humid conditions like a greenhouse

Containers: with drainage holes.

Wash with bleach if reusing.

Root Zone Heat: optional; most seeds germinate best at around 75 degrees F.

Containers Biodegradable pots must be torn to fit at soil level to decrease risk of wicking and drying out. These are best for plants that don’t transplant well.

Containers Grow onions in flats and break apart to save space

Soil Block Maker The soil is the container.

Typical home setup

With artificial light

Without artificial light

Gateway Greening hoophouse

Gateway Greening hoophouse

Problems Damping-off Disease Keep potting mix moist, but not soaking wet Use well-drained planting media (less soil; more peat, coir, perlite, etc. ) Keep soil and seedlings at proper germination temperature Plant seeds at appropriate depths (surface to ½”) Using sterile or pasteurized germination mix Spread perlite or sphagnum moss on the surface to increase water absorption Do not soak plants overnight. Water from the bottom. Fill containers near the brim with potting mix. This will allow air to flow across the medium and keep fungus problems at bay. Run a fan on low to circulate air around the seedlings. Stagnant air is detrimental to seedlings.  Let biodegradable pots dry somewhat, however, be careful with potting media. Once it has fully dried it becomes difficult to rewet. When transplanting, plant those most vigorous and healthy (white roots, sturdy stems, good color) and at the proper depths Fertilize every two weeks with weak solutions of liquid seaweed, compost tea, fish emulsion, or others (diluted)

At first sign of germination, get seedlings to strong, close light Fluorescent bulbs or long hours of sunny window exposure (difficult in winter) These may now work better to eat as sprouts!

Legginess

Insect Problems

Aphids

Leafhoppers

Cutworms

Spider Mites

Leafminer damage

Use screens to exclude outside pests Keep the doors closed when possible Keep seedlings away from houseplants Can spray off with water or try to smother with insecticidal soap BT used for all caterpillars

Water using a spray bottle when seeds are just sprouting

Try pre-sprouting seeds for quicker germination time

Always plant according to seed packet guidelines. Too shallow and the seed may dry out or not have enough contact with soil. Too deep and it may rot without germinating.

Water gently from above using a watering can with rose or spray bottle. Room temperature water works best. Water from the bottom using a reservoir tray

•When growing tomato seedlings it helps to run your hand over the plant a few times each day.

This toughens the stem and root and develops a healthier plant in the long run. Gently try this with other plants as well; bend them down and let them spring back up.

•If peppers begin to blossom or set fruit while young, pull off these premature fruits for better harvests later •Of the four main types of lettuce (bibb, iceberg, romaine, or looseleaf), bibb and looseleaf mature earliest and tend to do best when starting indoors.

•Cabbage transplants best 3-4 weeks after germination •Broccoli and most other cole crop seedlings should not be held in small pots for too long (they risk terminal stunting). When seedlings are 6-8 inches tall transplant outside or to larger pots.

•Never use tobacco products and then handle members of the nightshade family (eggplant, tomato, pepper). Could transmit Tobacco Mosaic Virus (tobacco is also a nightshade) •Squash and cucumber seedlings will be ready to transplant in two to three weeks, so don’t start them too early in relation to the first frost

Hardening Off •Time: 7-10 days of acclimation before planting in the ground •Process: •2-3 days of shade during the daylight hours only; decrease watering •2-3 days of sunny conditions during the day only •2-3 days of all day and night conditions, preferably still protected by winds and precipitation (under row covers or cloches; in cold frames; under a deck or other structure) •Frost: carefully watch weather forecasts; any freezing temperatures will kill tender seedlings and may damage hardy ones •When planting: Provide favorable conditions after planting, such as screening from hot, direct sunlight, intense precipitation, or cold temperatures

Transplanting

•Generally, transplants are ready when 3-4 true leaves are present.

•Transplant on a day that will be cloudy and cool.

•Check seed packet to determine how far apart plants should be. (Thinning; Thin To) •Dig a hole as deep as the plant is currently growing and a bit wider. Add some water if the weather is dry or hot.

•Carefully remove plants from pots, taking care not to shock roots. Hold by the leaves rather than roots or stems. Wrap your hand around the plant and gently turn the plant over.

•Place plant in the pre-dug hole, cover gently with crumbly dirt and/or compost.

•Add a diluted fertilizer such as fish emulsion or weak compost tea to the transplant.

Water in the plant and monitor closely over the next few days.

•If weather will be hot, place a window screen or other shade device over plants.

•When transplanting tomatoes, prune all leaves halfway or more up stem and plant deeply.

True leaf

Cotyledon leaf

Quiz time...

Tomatoes are usually ready to transplant 8 weeks after sowing. May 1st is the best time to plant without threat of frost. When is the earliest they should be started indoors?

Garden soil is a great medium for starting seedlings because it’s free. T or F? A windowsill with 8 hours of good sunlight is fine for growing seedlings.

T or F? ________________ is the process of acclimating indoor-grown seedlings to outside conditions over the course of 7-10 days.

What part of the plant is most at risk of suffering from transplant shock?

Perlite/vermiculite/rice hulls are typically used for what purpose?

Name three plants that should not be started indoors.

Damping off is caused by insects. T or F?

Interactive Student Activities

Science Investigations •Which seeds germinate quicker and why?

•Why do some seedlings transplant better than others? Which plants have sensitive roots?

•Which environmental conditions (warmth, moisture, humidity) work better for seeds? Use dependent and independent variables of the same crop and gather data. Do seeds in plastic bags sprout faster than those in the open?

•How many hours of light are best for each crop/species? Document during the growing cycle using charts and graphs.

•Some seeds sprout better when scarred, frozen, or soaked. Try this with seeds like Swiss chard, peas, beans, okra, and parsley. Which method works the best?

•Plant the same seeds both inside and outside. Which sprout better? Try to come up with reasons why.

•Change the acidity of the soil to determine what pH works best for each crop.

Acidify using sulfur and alkalize using limestone.

•Test allelopathy by growing seeds in the same container as sunflower seeds. Are there crops that are not affected by this chemical process?

Interactive Student Activities

Arts/Literature •Draw or write about the growing process of the seedlings. Document growth and health of the seedlings.

•Try sprouting seeds from tropical fruits and vegetables (ie., orange, lemon, avocado) to see what the young plants will look like. Have a drawing contest to try and predict what the seedlings might look like.

•Make soda bottle containers and fill with potting soil. Have students plant seeds near the edge so they can watch the roots growth below soil level.

•Plant different kinds squash seeds and grow until they flower. Draw the differences between the flowers. Eat them in a salad.

•Use magnifying lenses to look at the parts of a growing plant. Have students note the differences between plants and come up with a function for each part they identify.

Interactive Student Activities Mathematics •Measure the width of the first true leaf. Measure again during transplanting. What multiple or percentage of growth occurred during that time.

•Using clear bottle planters measure the roots and compare that to aboveground growth. Which plants have the most root growth? What is the ratio of root to shoot growth?

•Weigh a dried, compressed peat pellet and a fully hydrated one. How much water is absorbed? Try a wetting agent (such as dish detergent) to determine if more water is absorbed by weight.

•Create different potting soil mixtures for a science experiment and have the students calculate percentages of each component. Measure out by the cupful or by weight to determine a percent or ratio.

•Use multiplication to determine how many seeds will be sown per tray. Use trays with 32 and 72 cells to challenge the students.

•Determine a “success rate” for seed germination. Use older and newer seeds to determine the percent that do not germinate. Do a blind experiment to have students use the success rate to determine which seeds are the newest.

•Use the frost date and the “Guide to Timing Transplanting” to count backwards and determine when plants should be started.