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SUMMER 2014
to Canyon Country
SHOOTING THE MOON
A PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURE WITH JACKSON BRIDGES
LESSER KNOWN CELEBRITY
A DAY EXPLORING BUCKSKIN GULCH
Havasau Falls
Havasupai Indian Reservation
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Gateway to Canyon Country
is produced three times a year by the staff of the Lake Powell Chronicle, P.O. BOX 1716, Page, AZ 86040. Phone 928.645.8888 Fax 928.645.2209 Publisher/Editor Tonja Greenfield lpcpub@lakepowellchronicle.com editor@lakepowellchronicle.com www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com Writers Blake Tilker btilker@lakepowellchronicle.com Jamie Brough reporter@lakepowellchronicle.com Office Manager Tammy Tichinel tammy@lakepowellchronicle.com Composing Marty Sisk marty@lakepowellchronicle.com Advertising Ed Pease ed@lakepowellchronicle.com Mary Ann Chilton advertising2@lakepowellchronicle.com Circulation Mike Nation
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Images you capture
R
ight now you’re on page three of Gateway to Canyon Country Magazine, and odds are you’re also in Page, Ariz. as you read this. And if you’re not in Page right now, you probably will be at one point along your adventure around the Grand Circle of the Southwest’s geologic playground of canyons. My wife and I met each other while guiding multi-day backpacking and river trips throughout the endless and undulating canyons that carved out the Grand Circle. We were Longfellow’s “Ships that pass in the night, and speak to each other in passing; only a signal shown and a distant voice in the darkness.” We were married by a Havasupai medicine man at the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, and as soon as we said, “I do,” we put on our backpacks and honeymooned our way to the North Rim, symbolically sealing the journey ahead within the canyons below. The canyons of the area are crucial to who we are individually as well as who we are as a married couple of backpacking nuts. We even named one of our dogs Canyon. Canyons are the scars of nature’s change as her rivers and floods carve out another direction in her life and yours. They are like rare earth magnets that pull on a part of the human psyche and attract the wonder caused by Blake and Angie Tilker something beautiful. And that’s why you’re here, in Canyon Country. The canyon’s mechanics of attraction cross all borders and languages, speaking in a universal tongue to all of us. There’s something in our DNA, passed down for thousands of years that makes us stop in our tracks and admire nature’s creations. Art has been explained as the human species’ genetic drive to make copies of reality, and the advent of digital photography has made artists out of everyone; it’s like music for the eyes that can be framed and hanged on your office wall and listened to when needed. But there’s more to the digital image saved on your camera’s memory – there’s an experience saved on your neural network’s memory. And it’s the symbiotic relationship between the experience and the images you capture one frame at a time that brought you here to Canyon Country. So as you look at the photographs in this edition of Gateway to Canyon Country, also take in the stories behind them. Our job as writers and photographers is to motivate the reader to remember just how awesome it is to be alive. So fire up that camera and your sense of adventure because you’ll need both to play with the immense exposure of this area. Welcome to Canyon Country and turn the “Page.” Blake Tilker Gateway to Canyon Country
www.LakePowellChronicle.com
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 3
Canyon Country
Iconic Image
Page 20
Cover photo / Blake Tilker Gateway to Canyon Country reporter Blake Tilker took this photo of a Rain Dancer at Havasu Falls in the Havasupai Indian Reservation. Read about his journey to the Supai Village on page 22.
4 Gateway to Canyon Country
Summer 2014
Page 7
Page 48
Page 50
Inside 7 10 20 22 31 32
Photographer’s Paradise Shooting the Moon Horseshoe Bend People of Blue-Green Water Lake Powell map Canyon Country map
33 Page area map 34 City of Page map 36 City of Kanab map 37 Western Life 40 Spending Time 44 “Aaadventcha” 46 Panguitch
48 50 54 56 60 62
Zion’s Hidden Canyon Lesser Known Celebrity Know The Signs Giant Walls of Rock Towering Arch Where the Locals Go
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So what’s the deal with slot canyons? Why do more than 400,000 people a year go through Antelope Slot Canyon? I’ve talked with people who grew up in Page in the 70s, and they said how they used to throw keg parties in Antelope. It wasn’t until the 90s that Antelope became a tourist attraction marketed heavily by the Navajo Nation. Many professional photographers in the area swear that the popularity of the Antelope Slot Canyon followed in the wake of digital photography. Photography is king in this area, and one of the kings of photography is Charly Moore. Moore owns and operates Overland Canyon Tours, which is located inside the Thunderbird Art Gallery. I first met Charly while working as a kayak guide for Hidden Canyon Kayak. HCK specializes in turning people on to the hidden slot canyons of the area that are so narrow and remote, you need a kayak to get there. HCK and Overland Canyon Tours share a similar vision and partnered up to offer combo packages for those wanting to maximize the slot canyon experience. After cleaning up from an overnight trip at Face and Labyrinth Canyon, Charly came into HCK. Face and Labyrinth are only accessible by boat and offer up the same majestic slot canyon beauty as Antelope… minus the crowd. Almost every person who books a trip with HCK has either done Antelope Canyon, or plans on doing it before they leave Page, and I get a ton of questions about it. And after living in
the area for a few years, I must say it was a little embarrassing to admit I had never been to Antelope even though I’ve been to almost all the other big boys of the area. So I asked Charly if he could get me into Antelope. He did one better, and put me on one of his Upper Antelope/ Canyon X combo tours. However, when the time came to head out on the adventure, Charly was commissioned by the Weather Channel to shoot a supercell storm that was brewing. So he put me with one of his top guides, Bill. Bill has been guiding white water trips since the 70s, and like all of Charly’s guides, he is an amazing photographer. Overland Canyon Tours uses Chevrolet Suburban 4x4s instead of the modified pickup trucks used by the other Antelope Canyon outfitters. This creates a more intimate experience with the guide as well as limiting the amount of people on each trip. But what really separates Overland from everybody else is their devotion and love of photography. They are all Nikon guys at Overland and Bill told me, “Charly said he would fire me if I bought a Canon.” However, Charly purchased some Canon DSLR cameras so all of his guides could get familiar with the settings to help out guests regardless of the Nikon/Canon feud. Part of Antelope’s attraction is how close to town it is, which helps out with the calculus of fitting everything in on a vacation. Upper Antelope Canyon is about a quarter of a mile long and absolutely stunning. The 200-million year old Navajo Sandstone structure is a photographer’s paradise. However,
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Beam of Light in Canyon X
it’s difficult to capture the sandstone waves and beams of light without having another photographer winding up in the image, but hey, that’s what Photoshop is for. And even though we literally bumped into hundreds of other photographers while in Antelope, the adventure is a low-impact, jaw-dropping opportunity to witness one of nature’s most wonderful experiences, no matter what outfitter you choose. However, Overland has exclusive rights with the Navajo Nation to offer photography tours in Canyon X, and they are the only way in. Once out of Antelope, Bill drove us out of town and eventually turned off on an unmarked dirt road that was a bit of an adventure in and of itself.
“I carried a four-foot disco ball down here yesterday,” Bill said. A rock band hired Overland to shoot a video in Canyon X the day prior. In the month of June a beam of light blasts through the sandstone canopy of Canyon X and the rock band turned Canyon X into a sandstone disco tech. Bill wasn’t able to reveal the name of the band due to secrecy agreements. Canyon X comes with a hike that descends into a slot canyon that rivals Antelope Canyon, and even though the hike is quite short, it will get your heart pumping a few beats higher than the already elevated anticipation of going into one of the most rarely visited miracles of the area. There are two slot canyon rooms you’ll hike through at Canyon X, and Bill pointed out all of the intricate details of the overwhelming shapes and shades of the canyon. “That one there looks like a profile of Bob Dylan. Jackson Bridges showed it to me when he was guiding for us,” Bill said. It looked just like the 1960s Bob Dylan. Once in the second sandstone chamber, Bill pointed out where the beam of light would be showing up. Overland provides a lunch that comes from a local restaurant and is just as delicious as the canyons. While we ate lunch, Bill shared some of the stories he has spent a lifetime collecting. One thing all guides are experts at is telling stories. Once we finished lunch, Bill took us to the narrow chamber that was illuminated by a beam of light that looked as if it was catching the ground on fire. It was just us, the Navajo Sandstone and a beam of light that tickled the sense of wonder in all of us. Overland Canyon Tours is located in the Thunderbird Art Gallery in the heart of Page. On display are samples of Charly’s photography as well as Jackson Bridges’ work. They are also the only place in Page to buy professional camera gear. But be warned, once you see the images on the wall, you’ll end up booking a tour to see the images in real time.
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SHOOTING THE MOON A PHOTOGRAPHY ADVENTURE WITH JACKSON BRIDGES story AND PHOTOS by BLAKE TILKER/sTAFF
Editor’s note: In each edition of the Gateway to Canyon Country, reporter Blake Tilker goes on a photographic adventure to some of the area’s more notable locations with local photographer Jackson Bridges. To read previous adventures, please visit www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com. Chances are you already know Jackson Bridges, even if you have never met him before. His photography is everywhere in Page, and you’ve seen it whether you knew it or not. It was when you were at the bank or looking over the menu at a restaurant when a framed photograph on the wall stole your attention and pulled you out of that moment in time. You know the photograph; it was the one that made you say, “Wow,” before you ordered your coffee. Since we met, Jackson and I hang out a couple times a week. He is 76 years old, exactly twice my age, and has become my mentor and best friend since I moved to Page. I have shot Horseshoe Bend more times than I can remember, but Jackson has probably shot it more than anybody around. Recently, I called Jackson and told him I was going to hike a ladder down to Horseshoe Bend and asked if he wanted to go. “Sure, pick me up at 5:15 p.m.,” he said. The sun was going to set at 7:15 p.m., but one of the many things I have learned about photography from Jackson is to show up early and stay late. Horseshoe Bend is one of Page’s diamonds in the sand and gets its name from the serpentine, 180 degree curve in
the Colorado River. Although it looks more like a mule shoe, the winding section of river has carved out one of the most photographed natural wonders ever. The trailhead for Horseshoe Bend is about three miles southwest of Page and is well marked with signs and tour busses. Park at the well-maintained parking lot just off US 89 and make sure you’re wearing socks because they are about to be knocked off. The hike to the canyon’s edge is only a half mile, but the first section of trail is a steep ascent in thick sand. There’s shaded seating at the top of the hill if you want to gather your molecules before starting the descent. The rest of the hike is in sand, but you can bounce around the protruding sandstone fins to make it a bit easier. When I pulled up to Jackson’s house he was waiting outside and dressed in hiking boots, cargo shorts, a safari hat, and some rather hip sunglasses for a man his age. He had a hiking stick in one hand and his camera bag hanging over his shoulder, which is easily 20 pounds. Jackson has lived in Page for almost 20 years and has spent most of that time working as a photography guide for Overland Canyon Tours, which Jackson refers to as the “classiest outfit in town.” We turned off the highway into the parking lot for Horseshoe and the place was packed with rental cars and tour busses. “When I first started coming here, there wasn’t even a parking lot, let alone all these cars and tour busses. I had the
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place to myself. This is crazy, man. Raiders of the lost outer space,” he said. We found the only parking space left as tourists scrambled about with their camera gear. We grabbed our gear and got some strange looks because of the 17-foot ladder I was carrying. Jackson’s lips are usually chapped and I used to think it was do to his adventures under the relentless Arizona sun, however, when he gets excited he licks his lips uncontrollably, which he was doing. We stopped a half dozen times along the half-mile hike to the canyon’s edge, and Jackson would jam his walking stick into a bush, fire off a few shots, and then hike a little bit more while forgetting his stick, which I would remember for him. “Hey, Jackson, you forgot your stick,” I would say. “Thanks, man. I do that a lot. You know why people come to Page? It’s because of Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Slot Canyon, and Lake Powell. And you know why? Digital photography, my friend,” he said. Hiking with a 17-foot ladder is a slow process as is hiking with Jackson; both are metaphors for life, and maybe all of us should downshift a few gears. We got some of the strangest looks as we hiked down with the ladder. Jackson knew exactly why we had the ladder, and I stole the idea from a story Jackson told me about a time he brought a ladder down to Horseshoe many years prior. It’s hard to fit all of Horseshoe Bend into the viewfinder Jackson, pictured left, with the gentleman who knicknamed without cropping out part of the view. The ladder would give us him “Professor Grandpa.” not only a unique view of the bend, but an eight-foot advantage to frame the wide-angle shot. “I won’t tell if you don’t,” I said. I found a level spot just six inches away from the 1,100-foot There were at least 150 tourists scrambling about with highdrop down to the Colorado River and set up the ladder. end cameras and tripods, and almost every language was “If our wives knew what we were doing they would kill us,” represented. However, two different groups of Asian tourists Jackson said. gravitated towards us. There was an older group of four with
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Jackson got down on his belly and hung his camera over the immense exposure of Horseshoe Bend. thick Chinese accents and a younger group of six who spoke better English than the two of us. Jackson has never met a stranger and began a conversation with one of the younger Asians who was setting up his gear. I imagine he was in his late 20s. “Are you guys professionals?” he asked us. “No, we just live here,” Jackson, who obviously is a professional, humbly answered. “What do you do?” Jackson asked. “I’m a doctor in Los Angeles,” he replied. Jackson frequently shares his knowledge of photography with strangers, and I’ve heard him do it hundreds of times. First and foremost, he recommends that you read your manual and understand what all the buttons and setting do on your camera. But once you put your eye through the viewfinder, it all comes down to composition, and he recommends taking an art class or buying a book on composition. “But sometimes it’s just dumb luck,” he will tell you. After helping the doctor with camera settings and techniques, Jackson said, “Hey Doc, you know what you can help me with? I have Parkinson’s. You guys need to find a way to fix it.” You would never know Jackson has Parkinson’s due to the medications he on. However, I think it’s his disposition that masks the symptoms more than anything else. The older group of Chinese tourists also asked us if we were professionals. After putting his eyeballs back in his head, the oldest guy of the group, who I would put in his 60s, couldn’t believe what we were doing with the ladder. He kept calling me “Batman Number Two” and Jackson, “Professor Grandpa.” The Asian fellow was a retired acupuncturist who also lived in California and followed Jackson as he shuffled around the sandstone fins at the edge. He wouldn’t let Jackson get close to the edge and said things like, “Oh, Professor Grandpa, not too close. Be careful.” But once he saw Jackson get down on his belly and hang his camera over the immense exposure of Horseshoe Bend, the acupuncturist got down on his belly and inched toward
12 Gateway to Canyon Country
the edge too. One of the acupuncturist’s friends held onto his ankles as he barely peeked over the edge and fired off a shot. I looked down from the ladder at the acupuncturist as he looked up at me with extremely wide eyes. “You’re crazy, Batman Number Two.” Several people asked me if I would take a photo with their camera from the ladder, which I respectfully declined. The moment the sun fell behind the horizon, there was a mass exodus from Horseshoe Bend. However our four Asian friends stayed around for a bit. One by one, I took their cameras up the ladder and gave them a unique shot and even more unique story to take back home. Jackson and I were the last ones to leave Horseshoe Bend. He called his wife and checked in as we started our hike out in the dark. Jackson told his wife he loved her, hung up the phone, and said to me, “You know what, man? You can now call yourself a professional. You hiked a ladder down to Horseshoe Bend to take a picture, and that’s the difference between an amateur and a professional.” “I just play one on television,” I said. When we got back down to the car, it was just how Jackson had remembered it when he first starting going to Horseshoe. We were the only ones there. “I think the full moon is this Friday, what are you doing Thursday?” Jackson asked me. “Sounds like I’m going out to shoot the moon with you,” I replied. “Have you been to Alstrom Point?” he asked. “Sure, with the wife and dogs at sunset,” I said. “Well, pack your gear, get your wife and dogs and pick me up at 2:30 p.m. on Thursday. We will set up camp, shoot the sunset, the moonrise, and then the sunrise, sound cool?” Jackson said licking his lips. I have been on a few full-moon shoots with Jackson, and what he taught me was to shoot the moon the day prior of the full moon. The full moon rises at sunset, whereas the day before the full moon it will rise just before sunset while the foreground is still lit up. “That’s the trick to shooting a full moon. Otherwise you just end up with a big white blob,” he will tell you. Alstrom Point is about a 90-minute drive from Page and will require a high-clearance, four-wheel drive vehicle. From Page, head toward Big Water, Utah on US 89 for 15 miles. Turn right on Ethan Allen Road and in three-tenths of a mile make another right on Glen Canyon National Park Road. After 13 miles head right onto Recreational Road 230. Follow 230 for four miles until you see the sign for Alstrom Point. Buckle up and hold on for the next five miles because it gets gradually worse until you get there. You’ll know it when you see it. The area just behind Big Water is mostly made up of Tropic Shale and is referred to as “The Moon” because of the powdery grey-blue formations of the area that resemble lunar landscapes. My wife, dogs and I picked up Jackson at his house and headed out to “The Moon” to, well… shoot the moon. “I’m glad you brought your doggies. Animals love me. Have you ever seen a cat fetch? I had a cat once and that thing would play fetch. Cool, huh? If we have a moon tonight, we can make it work. I’ll go out to shoot pictures over going out to eat, every time. So what’s a picture worth? It’s only worth what it will bring, and hanging on a wall it won’t bring anything.” Jackson said. Jackson and I have returned from many shoots that didn’t pan out due to a lack of clouds burning in the sky, or too many clouds burning out the moon. For us at least, so much of
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photography is the hunt, whether or not we end up shooting anything. As we roved down the gravel roads of “The Moon,” Jackson would say things like, “I call that one the ‘Rook.’ And that one my wife calls ‘Santa’s Sled.’ Stop the truck. Do you see that? Let me pop one off. You see that foreground? Now that’s what I’m talking about. Most people don’t know about this place. I like to call it our own little ‘Moon Valley.’ And that one right there is Liberace playing the piano. Can you see it?’” When we got to Alstrom Point, we set up our camp so we could concentrate on the show. One of my dogs wouldn’t leave Jackson’s side and followed him everywhere he went. Jackson had his tent setup and was scanning the horizon with binoculars before my wife and I even had our tent out of the stuffsack. My wife made us all peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and after dinner Jackson handed my wife a kite with Darth Vader from Star Wars on it. She flew that kite like a fighter pilot in the wind gusts while we waited for the moon to reveal herself. “Oh! There it is,” my wife yelled, startling both of us as she used the force to real in Darth Vader. The moon was up and we sprung into action, my dog sticking close to Jackson’s heals. The moon rose fast, and the sun fell even faster. The shadows competed with each other and the moon won. Alstrom Point overlooks Lake Powell and the predominant landmarks are Gunsight Butte and Padre Bay. At the time, Alstrom Point was 800 feet above the water level of Lake Powell, and the moon was shining on all of it. “I brought something, but the truck has to be running,” Jackson said. He pulled out a one million candlepower spot light with an adapter for the car. He plugged the thing in and blasted the canyon with a beam of mischief. The houseboats down below all got a dose of Jackson Bridges that night.
Camping out at Alstrom Point waiting for the moon to rise. He handed the spot light over to me and fiddled around with his camera. “O.k., when my camera is open, I want you to paint Gunsight Butte with that light,” he said. We struggled bagging that shot, but then again it was about the hunt. We turned our cameras off and called it a day. As we sat in our chairs and looked over some of the images, Jackson
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said, “You ever ride a jet ski? Let’s get some jet skis. Well, it’s past my bedtime.” My wife, the dogs and I all woke up inside the tent when it was illuminated by Jackson’s light at around 4 a.m. When I crawled out of the tent, Jackson was dressed and all ready shooting in the pre-dawn light. “Look at that, man. I think it’s the Morning Star. How did you
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sleep? Let me guess, with your eyes closed I bet?” he said. We slowly bumped up our F-stops as the sun rose. The full moon was still out and on its way to bed, when Jackson said, “My ibuprofen is kicking in, let’s go hike over there.” So we hiked around to what Jackson called the real Alstrom Point; both of my dogs were right at his heals as he used his cameramounted tripod as a walking stick and rock hopped to the edge. The lake was dark blue stained glass and everything glowed in the morning light. “Look at the dogs and the way the sun is shining through their fur,” he said and took some shots of the dogs. “Let’s get a photo for your wife,” he said and he took some photos of me. “How about I get some photos of you for your wife,” I said and he posed in the bath of dawn. Jackson and I played around in the light until it became flat and then we packed up our camp. Before we got into the truck Jackson said, “All three of us should yell ‘Goodbye’ to the houseboats down below. When you have something to do, you do it.” Jackson counted to three and we all yelled down to the houseboats - Jackson eagerly waiting for a response. Nothing. “We know you’re down there,” he yelled. Nothing. “The kid in me is still here. Look at me, out here flying a kite at 76. My plan is to do this as long as I can. Younger people have taken me on as a project. They like to shoot with me. And what’s the alternative? Stay at home? No way. I live in God’s country. But my wife would tell me I overdid it. And I’ll tell her that I did. But unless you over do it, how can you know you’ve over done it? I’m worn out guys, let’s head home.” Jackson said.
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facebook.com/travelforeverresorts Forever Resorts is an authorized Concessioner of the USDA Forest Service, the National Park Service and the Department of Interior to serve the public in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Antelope Point Marina is owned and operated by Antelope Point Holdings L.L.C., an authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
E
Fiesta Mexicana Family Restaurant Authentic Mexican Food
Experience the authentic atmosphere of Mexico and enjoy the best Margarita’s in town.
If you miss out on Fiesta Mexicana, you haven’t been to Page!
O
storyand photo by blake tilker/staff
k, now this is the big daddy of the area. This is one of the reasons you came here in the first place. Someone once told me the three most important features of Page are Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon, and Horseshoe Bend. And even though Horseshoe Bend is on National Park Service land, it’s free and accessible to everyone. Horseshoe Bend gets its name from the serpentine, 180 degree curve in the Colorado River. Although it looks more like a mule shoe, the winding section of river has carved out one of the most photographed natural wonders ever. The trail head for Horseshoe Bend is about three miles southwest of Page and is well marked with signs and tour buses. Park at the well-maintained parking lot just off US 89. The hike to the canyon’s edge is only a half mile, but the first section of trail is a steep ascent in thick sand. There’s shaded seating at the top of the hill if you want to gather your molecules before starting the descent. The rest of the hike is in sand, but you can bounce around the protruding sandstone fins to make it a bit easier. Horseshoe Bend regularly has hundreds of people scrambling about for that award-winning photo to take home. Sunrise shots will light up the prominent point of the horseshoe, while sunset shots backfill the landmark and add another dimension of beauty.
20 Gateway to Canyon Country
Horseshoe Bend
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 21
Havasau Falls
22 Gateway to Canyon Country
Havasupai Indian Reservation
PEOPLE OF BLUE-GREEN WATER soaking up the peace with the supai story AND PHOTOS by BLAKE TILKER/sTAFF
It’s about a five-hour drive from Page to Hualapai Hilltop, and it’s one of the most beautiful places on earth. I’ve done the drive many times with guests, but this time I was alone in a car with the intermittent white noise of my radio that became more frequent and more familiar the farther I got from home. There is a large parking lot at the Hualapai Hilltop, and it was relatively empty when I pulled up. The sun had already set, and I knew the moon wouldn’t be showing her face. This meant I wouldn’t encounter the trains of horses lugging gear or tourists shuffling along the trail with backpacks way too heavy for their ability. I would be alone – and that was the point. However, as soon as I strapped on my backpack, two dark figures came my way with the speed and grace of an easy wind and jumped me. I fell on my back and they licked my face in a frenzy. It was two wild dogs from the Supai Village that I have played with many times before. They aren’t really wild, a Native does own them, but the dogs in Supai go where they want and sleep where they want – friendly wolves. I always see these two dogs together. One is a black and white border collie and the other is a black lab. There’s a
joyful bounce in the way they move, and you can’t help but smile when you see it. The lab got in front of me and the border collie picked up the rear because that’s what they do. I started my stopwatch and the three of us started running down the switchbacks along with the ghosts of everything else that once was wild. The 10-mile trail that takes you into Havasu Canyon starts at 5,200 feet and drops to 4,000 feet within the first two miles. You then have a false flat drop of 1,000 feet over the next eight miles until you reach the campground and waterfalls of the Supai Indian Reservation. Once we hit the bottom of the switchbacks, the dogs and I established a new rhythm and continued to run down the dry, exposed canyon floor. The trail splits and then reconnects with itself all throughout the hike, and you would have to be drunk on illegal moonshine to get lost. That being said, there are some splits that offer a more parsimonious approach than others, and the dogs knew them all. All roads lead to Rome. I followed the dogs as they avoided splits that were rocky or too sandy. Without math, the dogs understood that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. The farther we got into the canyon,
the more I noticed eyeballs glowing in the bushes as my headlamp bounced off the retinas of the wilderness. At a little over six miles, we entered the riparian Havasu Canyon, which is marked by a drop in temperature and cottonwood trees whose leaves wave in the wind like little hands saying hello. And then there’s the water. The bluegreen water borrows its hue from the limestone deposits up top. Havasupai means: The People of the Blue-Green Water. You can hear the water before you see it. White noise. At eight miles, we entered the village of Supai. The homes are old and rustic. Almost every house has a skinny horse out front and a satellite dish pointing south that provides 600 channels of Whiteman. The dogs ran home when I hit the village. I called ahead of time and told the tourist office I was coming because they would be closed by the time I arrived. They all know me because I have guided tours down there for years. You must check-in with the tourist office and pay for a permit before you reach the campground – if you don’t, you will get caught. The entrance fee is $35 per person and an additional $17 per person/ per night to camp. Reservations must be
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 23
FOOD, FUN & SHOPPING
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made in advance. As I ran by the small general store in the village, I heard someone in the bushes yell, “Hey!” I turned off my headlamp so I wouldn’t blind the guy behind the voice. “Is that Blake?” he asked. “Ya, it’s me. Who are you?” I said. And this is all he said, “Suuuuuu-paaaaai.” So after an awkward moment of silence, I said goodbye and ran through the rest of the village. Once through the village, there are two more miles of sandy trail until you reach the campground. The white noise gets louder and louder. Canyons are dynamic places where flash floods carve out whatever is in their way. In 2008, a flash flood roared through Supai and took out Navajo Falls. However, two new waterfalls were left in the wake of the flood and you’ll hear and see them about a half a mile from the campground. The new falls are called Upper and Lower Navajo Falls. Upper Navajo Falls is a 50-foot waterfall that eventually pours into Lower Navajo Falls. Lower Navajo is a 30-foot waterfall that you can jump off of into a sweet swimming hole and escape the heat. And just before you reach the campground, you’ll stumble upon the 100-foot Havasu Falls – one of the most photographed waterfalls on the planet. Mooney Falls is one mile down canyon from Havasu Falls and utilizes chains, ropes, tunnels, and ladders to assist in the climb down to the bottom of the 200-foot waterfall. Two miles farther down canyon and through wild vineyards of canyon grapes are the cascading Beaver Falls. I slept in the dirt and under the stars that night with my pack as my pillow. The only signs of the world I left behind several hours ago were the satellites that zoomed through the garden of stars above, invisibly polluting the souls of us all frame by frame. I woke up to the silhouette of a thin Native with a long ponytail
Hikers walk through a garden of Canyon grapes on their way to Beaver Falls.
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Lower Navajo Falls
Havasupai Indian Reservation
standing over me saying, “Ali Baba!” Once I shook the cobwebs out, I realized it was Clayton, the day ranger. “Ooooh, heloooo Blake,” he said with a closed-mouth grin. I told him that I was down by myself and wanted to soak up the peace I never get to while on the clock treating blisters
and making meals while guiding. And I’ve seen the peace of this place bring people to tears, and no one is immune. I started making some coffee when another park ranger came over. It was Jackson. He is in his late 20s and built like a wrestler. He was on his albino horse that only had one eye, one blue eye. The
white horse was rather large, but looked small under Jackson’s immense frame. Tied to his horse was a smaller brown horse with a saddle. “You want to ride this horse?” he asked “Has it ever been ridden before?” I asked. He said it hadn’t, and I said I wouldn’t.
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So Jackson got Earl to do it. Earl was another Park Ranger who looks like his nose has been broken once a year for every year of his life; I would put him in his 30s. He is thin and has a ponytail as well. Earl put his foot in one stirrup and the horse’s eyes widened and his hooves gripped the dirt. Earl straddled the horse in one swift and effortless move, just like in the movies. Jackson held on tight to the rope around the horse’s neck. The horse tried to stand on its hind legs in order to dump Earl, but Jackson had horsepower of his own and held the horse down. Of the three, Clayton was the most experienced at breaking wild horses. Clayton started referring to Earl as “Big Balls” while softly yelling instruction: “Hey, Big Baaaalls, hold closer to the neck.” The horse calmed down and Big Balls rode him up and down the trail that enters the campground while Jackson held on tight to the lead rope. Clayton looked over at me and said, “You’re coming to my sweat lodge at 11 today.” You don’t decline when one of the elder medicine men invite you to a sweat. I nodded and said, “Thank you.” A sweat lodge is a round mud hut with a dirt floor. The inside is lined with thick tree branches that provide the support for the structure. The doorway always faces east and is covered by a blanket that blocks out the light and keeps in the heat. Outside the lodge, rocks are heated on a fire sandwich of wood, stone, wood and stone. When the rocks are white-hot, they are placed inside the lodge towards the west with a pitchfork. Water is then splashed on the rocks to create steam throughout each round, which last about 30 minutes. It’s a sauna that borders insanity. Three sessions are typical. Warriors go for four. Clayton drew a map in the dirt with his finger and showed me where his sweat lodge was. He then galloped off on his horse, waving
An event for the entire family!
Big Balls and Clayton
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to the canyon walls and trees on either side of him. I ran behind him. The sound of my footsteps was masked by his horse’s gallop and the omnipresent white noise of the blue-green water as we ran up canyon toward the village. He continued to wave at the wilderness as we trotted along and he was shocked to see that I was right behind him when we reached the spot. We stopped in the middle of the trail and to the left was a boulder field and to the right was an impenetrable riparian forest nourished by the Havasu Creek. Clayton got off his horse, looked up canyon, down canyon, looked at me and then motioned with his head to follow him. He split the riparian jungle like a real-life Moses and his horse and I followed him as we worked our way through the sticks. All of the reeds closed behind us, erasing the passage from view. We eventually reached the creek and began to cross it. Clayton
went first with his horse in tow. They gracefully crossed the chest-high water. I made it halfway when my shoe got sucked off of my foot by the suction of the mud. The water was cloudy and I couldn’t see where my shoe went. I held my backpack in one hand and submerged the rest of my body under water. I found my shoe on the first try and pried it from the mud’s grip. Clayton was laughing on the bank when I popped up out of the water. His sweat lodge was on the other side of the creek. Jackson and his horses were there as well as another Native who was putting white-hot rocks into the sweat lodge. Once the fire was stoked and the lodge loaded with rocks, Clayton said we were ready. He told me to take off my watch and bracelet because they would burn my wrists. We stripped down to our shorts and entered the sweat through a deliberately
tight doorway on our hands and knees. And backward. Always enter backward. Clay told me to sit next to him. The other two guys came and Jackson put some sage on one of the larger rocks, closed the door and turned out the sun. The only thing visible was the red glow of the sage as it burned away on the rock. I was already sweating profusely and it hadn’t even started yet. Clayton elbowed me and told me to close my eyes. He then started cupping water out of a bucket with his hands and throwing it on the rocks. Within seconds it was hard to breathe. My heart was pumping with an unusual amount of pressure behind it. The air was so hot that we had to take quick breaths in order to make it through the round. We all sounded like we were in a Lamaze class. Clayton started a prayer that he spoke in the Supai language. Each prayer was followed by a song that the
Suites on 10
three of them would sing. The songs too were in a language I didn’t understand, but I moved my body to the beat of his voice. The water would make a sizzling sound when it hit the rocks and Clayton played with the sound as if it was an instrument, which it was. Toward the end of the round, Clay splashed the rocks with such a cadence, that the heat was getting unbearable. And when the heat dropped from torture to tolerable, Clayton said in English, “Great Spirit, this is my good friend. He is going to write a story about us and this sweat lodge. Watch over him, Great Spirit.” He said we could get out. Head first. Always head first, like being born from a woman. Jackson was lying in the dirt off to the side of the lodge. We made eye contact when I crawled out. I growled and we both started laughing. Your hands are covered in dirt when you enter the
th
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28 Gateway to Canyon Country
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sweat because you’re on your hands and knees. However, they are washed clean from the constant flow of sweat that drips from every pore in your body. And once you hands are clean, you can wipe your face and get some relief. We did three more rounds in the sweat lodge and the dialogue was personal and not to be shared outside of the lodge. I hung out with the my Supai friends for a few days before hiking out under the disguise of a morning sun that wouldn’t break, like the ghosts I came in with. I didn’t set a personal best for hiking out, far from it. I did set one driving home though. My house was silent when I got home. I started a bath and grabbed a cold beer from the fridge. I found some static on the radio and set the equalizer to Supai. I opened the bathroom door and got blasted by steam. I got in my incredibly hot bath and was no longer home.
P.O. Box 940 • 626 N. Navajo Drive, Page,Arizona 86040 Toll Free: 1-800-644-3008 • Phone: 928-645-3008 • Fax: 928-645-9256 blairs@blairstradingpost.com • www.blairstradingpost.com
Jewelry • Rugs • Kachinas • Pottery • Baskets • Fetishes • Clothing • Purses & Wallets Groceries, Snacks with microwave in store. Stop in - take a break and have a cool drink!
• Jackets • Vests • Jeans • Chaps • Bandannas • Boots • Hats & Belts • Guns • Ammunition
We have many name brand products as well as a variety of Herbs & Tobacco!
The Place to Go... If you’re looking, you’ll find it here! • Authentic Native American Jewelry • Moccosins • Rugs & Blankets • Pottery & Baskets • Kachina’s & Carvings
626 N. Navajo Drive, Page www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 29
Navajo owned & operated by the Begay Family
Specializing in Guided & Photography Tours Guided Tours are a wonderful way to experience the awesome natural wonder of Upper Antelope Canyon. The tour starts by
boarding a 4x4 truck that transports you comfortably to the mouth of Antelope Canyon. Your Navajo Guide will take you on an easy journey through the canyon stopping in areas that are popular for photos and also sharing the Navajo Cultural stories about the canyon. This tour is very informative, sharing the history and geology of the canyon. The tour lasts about 1 hour in the canyon. Rates: Adults $25 Plus $6 for Navajo Parks Permit Sold Separately; Children $10 (5 to 12)
The Photo Tour gives the photographer more time to take pictures of the more popular spots in the canyon. Your Navajo
Guide will show you the most popular places in the canyon for photo opportunities. This tour is for 2 hours in the canyon. A Photo Tour can be done anytime of the day. Morning hours are 9 am to 11 am. You will have nice light throughout the canyon with less people around. The afternoon, 10 am to 1 pm is when the sun is highest above the canyon giving it maximum light conditions. During this time the canyon receives the famous light beams. This is the most popular time of the day with many people in the canyon. The late afternoon, 1 pm to 5 pm, has soft colors with nice photos made in the entrance area of the canyon. By this time the crowds are much smaller and the canyon is more spiritual and relaxing. Rates: Photographer $40 Plus $6 for Navajo Parks Permit Sold Separately (Rates will vary during peak season & peak times: Memorial Day - Labor Day, 11 am - 1 pm)
DAILY TOUR TIMES 8:45 am 10:00 am 11:00 am 12:00 pm 1:00 pm 2:00 pm 3:00 pm 4:00 pm Reservations are not necessary. Just show up and we will help you. Arrive 30 minutes early for the tour of your choice. If you are a large group (20 to 60) we can arrange reservations for your group. Located 3 miles east of Page, Arizona off of Highway 98 on the Navajo Reservation. Look for the Antelope Canyon Navajo Tribal Park with the yellow gates at the entrance.
(928) 698-3384 (928) 698-3285 www.navajotours.com
Antelope Canyon
Antelope Island
Wahweap Bay
Highway 89 to Flagstaff is currently closed. See detour maps for the new 89T on pages 32 and 33.
Colorado River
Glen Canyon Dam
Hwy 89 to Kanab, Utah
Wahweap Marina
Navajo Canyon
Warm Creek Bay
West Canyon
Last Chance Bay
Hole-InThe-Rock
Rainbow Bridge National Monument
Rock Creek
Escalante River
San Juan River
Halls Creek Bay
Halls Crossing Marina
Bullfrog Marina
Bullfrog Bay
Utah Highway 276 to Monument Valley
Utah Highway 276 to Hanksville
Hite Marina
Colorado River
Antelope Point Marina
Utah Highway 98
Lake Powell
32 Gateway to Canyon Country
214 78 401 275 434 201 247 365 203 121 145 92 381 161 119
202 321 283 357 206 169 287 125 137 301 261 520 303 211
321 68 77 268 331 197 64 79 204 78 202 278 203 380 126 196 318 151 74 67 21 303 88 41
559 199 484 111 40 162 278 216 299 408 318 397
447 189 230 464 524 356 186 168 268 275 283 203 559 595 77 407 525 365 272 225 182 413 110 153
149 431 393 221 122 285 427 445 365 434 357 380 199 595 518 89 158 161 232 419 401 380 461 420
376 121 162 388 450 282 119 101 307 201 206 126 484 77 518 330 447 288 191 148 105 336 36 76
118 163 126 269 217 394 284 242
122 238 256 339 368 410 363
214 242 230 133 192 246 239 257 140 203 125 151 162 365 161 288 163 122 61 226 172 435 239 200
285 149 151 204 262 262 174 154 136 121 137 74 278 272 232 191 126 238 61 141 91 376 153 115
291 35 24 340 320 144 32 50 267 145 301 67 216 225 419 148 269 256 226 141
342 101 107 299 352 219 97 115 205 92 261 21 299 182 401 105 217 339 172 91 88
238 250 260 580 304 224 253 250 503 381 520 303 408 413 380 336 394 368 435 376 376 324
341 85 126 383 414 246 88 53 273 161 303 88 318 110 461 36 284 410 239 153 115 67 303
88 236 324 115 67 303 74 62 309 43
ZION N.P., UT
ST. GEORGE, UT
SALT LAKE CITY, UT
PIPE SPRINGS, NM
PANGUITCH, UT
129 301 284 185 81 147 299 317 221 365 287 318 40 525 158 447 118
PAGE, AZ
159 280 278 171 145 196 277 295 176 247 169 196 111 407 89 330
NAVAJO, NM
MESQUITE, NV
MESA VERDE, N.P., CO
LAS VEGAS, NV
LAKE POWELL, HITE MARINA 168 248 223 210 116 123 245 263 252 401 321 278
NATURAL BRIDGES, NM
208 78 204 252 268 365 307 176 221 140 136 267 205 503 273 241
425 298 292 257 439 312 295 313 78 214
MONUMENT VALLEY, UT
322 176 313 79 263 168 445 101 295 317 257 154 50 115 250 53 59
399 161 155 347 409 275 158 176 208
KANAB, UT
419 292 302 181 282 277 304 322
GRAND CANYON S. RIM
288 32 78 365 354 199 21
GRAND CANYON N. RIM
FLAGSTAFF, AZ
249 62 145 285 331 350 179 5 294 327 120 56 175 551 351 230 352 175 178 551 230 351 352 178 365 354 199 21 181 282 277 304 347 409 275 158 257 439 312 295 268 331 197 64 210 116 123 245 404 524 356 186 221 122 285 427 388 450 282 119 171 145 196 277 185 81 147 299 133 192 246 239 204 262 262 174 340 320 144 32 299 352 219 97 580 304 224 253 353 414 246 88 298 372 204 93
CEDAR CITY, UT
CEDAR BREAKS N.P., UT
CAPITOL REEF, N.P., UT
CANYONLANDS, UT
278 270 56 56 331 294 350 327 179 120 5 56 32 78 292 302 161 155 298 292 68 77 248 223 189 230 431 393 121 162 280 278 301 284 242 230 149 151 35 24 101 107 250 260 85 126 90 84
CANYON DE CHELLY, NM
BRIANHEAD, UT
278 270 249 62 145 285 288 419 399 425 321 168 447 149 376 159 129 214 285 291 342 238 341 328
BRYCE CANYON N.P.,UT
ARCHES N.P., MOAB, UT ARCHES N.P., MOAB, UT BRIANHEAD, UT BRYCE CANYON N.P.,UT CANYON DE CHELLY NM CANYONLANDS, UT CAPITOL REEF N.P., UT CEDAR BREAKS N.P., UT CEDAR CITY, UT FLAGSTAFF, AZ GRAND CANYON N. RIM GRAND CANYON S. RIM KANAB, UT LAKE POWELL, HITE MARINA LAS VEGAS, NV MESA VERDE N.P., CO MESQUITE, NV MONUMENT VALLEY, UT NATURAL BRIDGES NM NAVAJO NM PAGE, AZ PANGUITCH, UT PIPE SPRINGS NM SALT LAKE CITY, UT ST. GEORGE, UT ZION N.P., UT
328 90 84 298 372 204 93 59 241 119 211 41 397 153 420 76 242 363 200 115 74 62 309 43
C w b
Centrally located right in the middle of ten of America’s greatest scenic wonders, KANAB, UTAH makes the perfect base-camp for exploring, hiking, boating, photography, or back country adventure.
Request a free Visitor Guide at:
www.VisitSouthernUtah.com
1-800-733-5263
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 35
The Terrace
覺
Jackson Flat Reservoir Kanab Airport
Kaneplex
uth o S
ern Uta
h
KANAB / KANE COUNTY
Office of Tourism & Film Commission
www.VisitSouthernUtah.com 36 Gateway to Canyon Country
www.VisitSouthernUtah.com
78 South 100 East
Kanab, Utah 84741
(800) 733-5263
Western Life western legends round-up offers the best of the west story and photos by Laurel Beesley/special to the gateway
The 16th Annual Western Legends Roundup, Aug.21-23 in Kanab, Utah, is a big splash of Western life “the way it was.” For three wild days this “Little Hollywood of the West” slips back in time – when the West was alive with wagon trains, cattle drives, cowboys, poetry, music and fun. This is a unique event where wearing cowboy boots and hats are expected. Few realize that more Westerns have been filmed here in Southern Utah than anywhere else outside Hollywood. More than 200 movies, TV series, commercials and documentaries have been shot here, starting with Tom Mix’s Deadwood Coach in 1924. The beautiful red rocks, sand dunes, dramatic cliffs and endless canyons of Southern Utah made this location a natural for movie makers. Western Legends Round-up is a fullout celebration of that heyday, when many of the Kanab locals were involved as wranglers, set builders, and even ‘extras’ on the sets of these immortal films – giving Kanab the nickname of
Coppertop Cottage
“Utah’s Little Hollywood.” This year’s Western Legends should be one of the most exciting in its history, with a special tribute to the late cowboy actor Joel McCrea, one of America’s best known saddle heroes (“The Virginian”, “Great American Cowboy” and of course “Buffalo Bill”, “The Outriders” and “Trooper Hook” that were actually filmed here in and around Kanab). McCrea liked to say, “the minute I got on a horse and put on a hat and a pair of boots, I didn’t feel like I was an actor. I was the guy out there doing it.” A number of McCrae’s contemporaries from the heyday of film production will make an appearance. The roster of visiting movie stars is the best ever, and there will be many opportunities to not only see, but speak with them and get signatures. Be on the lookout for “Daniel Boone” himself – actor Darby Hinton, celebrating the 50th anniversary of that classic TV series. The whole idea of celebrating the
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Open until 9 pm Mon-Sat
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www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 37
music, poetry, and Western Heritage started 16 years ago. “We were just talking,” muses Dennis Judd, one of the three original founders of Western Legends. “What could we do to restore, to create an authentic memory of past pioneer and cowboy life here in Kane County?” Dennis Judd, Lyle Heyborne and Robert Houston barn-stormed ideas of what they would like to see turned out on the streets of Kanab, and came up with Cowboy Poetry, square dancing, horses, wagons, long-horn steer and pretty women in cowboy hats. Later stuntman Neil Summers, and Bob and Bonnie Riding said, “Well, we just gotta invite the Movie Stars to our Western celebration. They’d love to come back to the place where many of their Westerns were filmed – right here in Kane County.” And there it was. Ina Mae Frost dubbed their grand idea “Western Legends,” and what started out as a simple celebration has turned into one of the signature best western festivals in America. For the first time, this year’s Western Legends includes an
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authentic four-day/three-night horse-drawn wagon train. Imagine yourself traveling by covered wagon down the same trails John Wayne and others traveled, surrounded by Southern Utah’s most beautiful scenery, enjoying chuck wagon campfire meals and evening entertainment under the stars. In honor of the classic Daniel Boone TV series, the Wagon Train Expedition will be camping at the Daniel Boone movie set, then traveling to the famous “Gunsmoke” movie set, and arriving in Kanab on Thursday in time to have dinner with the movie stars. On Saturday, the horses are hitched up again, and everyone takes part in the colorful ‘High Noon Parade.’ On Aug. 21 is the “Dutch Oven Dinner with the Stars,” with Cowboy Poet and Musician Stan Corliss. “Star Booths for Autographs” and the very popular “Breakfast with the Stars” at Little Hollywood Museum offer other chances for getting close to the actors. Enjoy a genuine hearty cowboy breakfast and see your favorites: Clint Walker (“Cheyenne”), James Drury (“The Virginian”), Darby Hinton (“Daniel Boone”), Dan Haggerty (“Grizzly Adams”) and others. On Saturday Kanab clears the highway for a full-blown stampede. The High Noon parade begins with a clatter of hooves as wranglers guide their long-horn steer down Main Street, followed by horses, wagon trains, mountain men, cowboys, and all kinds of Western fun. Western Legends Roundup is a family-oriented event, most activities are free to attend. Kids love the Way Out West Buckaroo Game Corral and Dr. Buck’s Wild Bunch Comedy Stunt Shows. Ticketed events sell out quickly, so be sure to go online to www.westernlegendsroundup.com for a list of activities and to purchase tickets, or call (435) 644-3444. Information on lodging, restaurants and surrounding area entertainment is available at www.visitsouthernutah.com.
Natural History Museum Inside A Sandstone Cave Fluorescent Mineral Display Native American Artifacts Dinosaur Tracks Fossils Pre-Columbian Artifacts Unique Gifts And Rock Shop
HOURS Monday - Saturday Summer Season 9:00 - 7:00 Off Season 10:00 - 4:00
THE COOLEST STOP ON HWY 89 - NEVER OVER 70˚ DEGREES ON THE HOTTEST DAYS.
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5 1/2 miles north of Kanab, Utah, Hwy 89 Phone (435) 644-8525 Leave Message
38 Gateway to Canyon Country
BUS TOURS WELCOME!
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 39
SPENDING TIME a handful of places to explore in kane county story by Laurel Beesley/special to the gateway
What would you like to do this summer that won’t leave a hole in your pocket? Discover dinosaur tracks, explore a new slot canyon, be awed by ancient native art in remote and exciting places, or be part of Kane County’s Western movie history? All these possibilities, and more, are easily available in Southern Utah’s Kane County. Just named on National Geographic’s list of “Ten Best Travel Destinations (Worldwide),” Kane County has finally won the recognition its spectacular landscape and history deserves. Whether you live in Canyon Country, or come from abroad, there are countless ways to explore the many photo by tonja greenfield/staff facets of this fascinating region. The BLM Visitors Center in Big Water, near Lake Powell. Beginning with the dinosaurs that trekked through this place back in the Mesozoic Era, try on the role of for footprints. The BLM Visitors Center in place to start. Inside, an impressive 40’ amateur paleontologist and go looking Big Water, near Lake Powell, is a good mural depicts an age when dinosaurs ruled; strange looking skulls decorate the room where Rangers explain that this region holds the greatest density of dino fossils in the world. Near Kanab, at Flag Point, 17” theropod tracks still lie clearly displayed in the red rock. For the young paleontologist in your family, the popular Big Water Dinosaur Festival, on Sept. 1921, is ‘A Celebration of Ancient Life’ with Dinosaur themed games and activities. As an aside; Kanab’s local paleontologist, Alan Titus, recently discovered a huge “new” dinosaur species that he now shares a name with: “Nasutoceratops titusi,” or in other words, “big nose horned face.” When not finding new species, Alan leads his rock band, aptly named “Mesozoic” in concerts around the Kanab area. While on the theme of ancient times, historians and artists may want to go on scenic hikes leading them to fascinating Pictographs and Petroglyphs. Many of these “rock art museums” exist, including South Fork Indian Canyon Pictographs in the Moquith Mountain Wilderness Study Area. Both South Fork Indian Canyon and the Hell Dive Canyon Pictographs are close to the beautiful Coral Pink Sand Dunes, and offer excellent day hikes.
40 Gateway to Canyon Country
LOCATED AT MILE MARKER 85 IN ORDERVILLE, UTAH
Bob & Diane Lane, owners of the “Orderville Mine Rock Shop,” have been in business for 21 years. They have the largest selection and variety of rocks & gems in Southern Utah. Their museum collection includes:
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Artists more interested in contemporary times should visit the Maynard Dixon Home and Studio in Mt. Carmel. Considered the’ Father of Western American Art,’ Dixon and his wife established an inspirational retreat center for early 20th century artists interested in the beauty of the Utah landscape, and its cowboy culture. Their original home and studio still stand next to the Bingham Gallery, where Dixon’s art hangs next to contemporary Western artists. Self-guided tours are available for $10, and special events happen throughout the year so check the website www.thunderbirdfoundation.com. While there, you may want to stray a bit further into Orderville, and check out a few of the colorful rock shops with Septarian Nodules, petrified wood and other odd, fascinating samples of geology. Kanab’s western history, and reputation as the “Little Hollywood of the West,” is another part of the attraction here. More than 300 different western movie classics were filmed here, and during the summer, the town of Kanab plays that up. Visitors Y STA FF photo by GAT EWA can find Kane County Ghost Towns, and photograph Order ville. each other at original movie sets. Out Johnson A sample of geology in Canyon, seven miles from Kanab, is the original movie set from “Gunsmoke.” These sets are on private property, but can be seen from the road. The ghost In Kanab, the county seat, the Heritage Museum is a treasure town of Pahreah is 30 miles east of Kanab, and offers a few chest of collectibles and stories. The Family History Center, in remnants as well as views, with hiking trails, that demonstrate the historic LDS Chapel, offers visitors the free assistance of why movie directors chose this dramatic location. two trained assistants if they wish to explore their own family In Kanab is Little Hollywood Land, and the Little Hollywood history using sophisticated software. In August, the famed Movie Museum. Just look for the statue of the White Horse at Western Legends Round-Up is a three-day excursion back into the end of Hwy 89. This amusing place even lets guests act our cowboy past, with exhibits, street fair, entertainment, good in their own filming of “How the West Was Lost,” and stay for cooking and the National Cowboy Poetry Contest. Chuckwagon dinners. If you want to see the movies, amble If you wish greater solitude, Utah’s first All-American Road, over to The Old Barn behind historic Parry Lodge and watch the Scenic Byway 12 lets you discover remote scenery, culture, a classic like “My Friend Flicka” or “The Outlaw Josie Wales,” archaeology and recreation. The North Kaibab National Forest, with the spirit of the Lone Ranger’s horse ‘Silver’ watching you sharing a border with the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, has from the shadows of his old stall. a number of astounding overlooks with views of the Grand Canyon most tourists never see. Condors, Bighorn sheep and other wildlife abound. And all of this – is free, all you need to spend is time. For more information go to www.visitsouthernutah. com.
photoCOU RTE SY
Sitting in the jail at Little Holly wood Land.
42 Gateway to Canyon Country
photo by laure l beesle y
AND BRE AKFAST OF SAVAGE POI NT BED n.
Enjoying the north rim
of the Grand Canyo
Mt. Carmel Junction, Utah Junction of Scenic Byways US 89 & SR 9 Hours: 7 am - 11 pm Zion Nation Park - 12 miles Bryce Canyon - 60 miles Grand Canyon - 85 miles
Restaurant (435) 648-2262 Golf Course (435) 648-2188 Gift Shop (435) 648-2203 (ext. 5)
www.ZionNational-Park.com
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 43
Gateway staff photos
“Aaadventcha” bryce canyon demands attention story by JAMIE BROUGH/staff
Some friends once told me that when you add a “-cha” sound at the end of the word “adventure,” rather than the usual “-chure” sound, you’re bound to set yourself up for a better time. “We’re going on an aaadventcha” they yelped as we began our most recent hiking trip in southern Utah. Maybe it was just the perk of having good company. Maybe the silly chant really does possess a magical power. Whatever the case may have been, our short half day hike was unforgettable. Bryce Canyon is one of those places where you’re almost inevitably destined to have an “adventcha” over just a run-of-the-mill adventure. Much like its sister National Park Zion, Bryce demands your attention for as long as possible. A simple drive-through or solitary day hike may leave you feeling cheated and unfulfilled. You don’t go to an upscale 5-star restaurant and leave after only a few bites of salad, do you? Its limestone edges have been carved, molded and shaped by Mother Nature into some of the most uniquely
44 Gateway to Canyon Country
fashioned rock formations in the world. Utah-famous slot canyons, crags, waves and hoodoo spires pepper the landscape in an orangish glow. At sunrise and sunset, the rocks almost seem to radiate a primordial energy as our star paints its parting rays of light on them. For backpackers and thru hikers alike, the Underthe-Rim Trail is a premiere wilderness trip to escape the hoards and experience Bryce at a more visceral level. The 23-mile trail connects two of Bryce’s most popular sites, Rainbow and Bryce points, and descends below the plateau into thick forest. Eight designated campsites populate the trail and provide great rest stops along the way. Natural springs are available, but can be tentatively closed when bear activity is high. Sections of the trail also may be washed out or impassable during monsoon season, so navigation skills and route finding may be required. But the payoff is immense. Very few attempt this trail so you may see only a handful of other hikers the entire time, if any at all. The campgrounds are quiet and the solitude
is a soul-forging journey that can’t be experienced anywhere else in the park. Many of Bryce’s most iconic formations can be seen in the valley, but from entirely unique perspectives. If you had to pick only one way to experience Bryce Canyon, look no further. For those looking for a slightly less exhaustive experience, many of Bryce Canyon’s most picturesque attractions can readily be reached by vehicle or by a quick and easy hike. From State Route 12, Bryce Canyon National Park Road, also part of State Route 63, gives access to just about all of the park’s main scenic viewpoints and trailheads, and also leads to the main visitor center and shuttle service. The shuttle service is a recommended boon to avoid parking and traffic-induced headaches and can help keep you on a tight schedule. National Park Service recommends for visitors that are limited to just a day in the park to, at the very least, visit Sunrise, Sunset, Inspiration, and Bryce viewpoints. Ideally, you’ll stay at least overnight in a lodge or a campsite.
If hiking isn’t in your bones, there are a plethora of other activities to do such as horseback riding tours, geology seminars, and even telescope stargazing. It’s a veritable playground for just about anyone. Like any national park, permits and fees are to be expected. Permits are $25 per private vehicle or $12 per individual and are valid for seven days. If you attempt the Under-the-Rim Trail or any other overnight excursion, additional $5 to $15 permits are required depending on the number of people in the party. Pets are allowed only on paved trails and campsites and campfires are strictly prohibited at the behest of Smoky the Bear. Reaching Bryce from Page is easy squeezy. Simply follow Highway 89 north towards Kanab. Continue northbound on 89 past Kanab for another 60 miles until you reach State Route 12. Take a right on SR 12 and continue on for another 12 miles. Take another right at State Route 63 and follow it until you reach Bryce Canyon National Park. Just remember to bring your sense of “aaadventcha.”
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 45
PANGUITCH
COURTESY PHOTO
The annual Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally is held the last full weekend of June each year. The event was founded in 2000. For more information on the balloon rally, visit www.PanguitchValleyBalloonRally.com.
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PANGUITCH
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Panguitch, Utah, the largest and most historic town in the Bryce Canyon area, was named by the Paiute Indians after the “big fish” they caught in nearby Panguitch Lake (Big: Pan, Fish: Quitch). The red brick buildings seen throughout the city’s historic district are reminders of the pioneers who worked hard to establish their community. A group of pioneers from Parowan and Beaver first settled the valley on March 16, 1864. The first winter, being exceptionally cold, was hard for the settlers. Crops had failed, and people were starving. Seven brave men journeyed 40 miles away to Parowan to search for flour. The snow was so deep that the men had to abandon their oxen and wagons. They were able to reach Parowan by placing a quilt on top of the deep snow, walking to the end of the quilt, then placing another down, and retrieving the first. This became known as the Panguitch quilt walk. Settlers were forced to abandon the village and leave their crops during the Black Hawk War in May 1866. In 1871, Latter Day Saints leader Brigham Young ordered that Panguitch be resettled. As the settlement grew, a brick factory was built. The majority of the people from the community worked in the factory, loading horse-drawn wagons with wood, and iron-rich clay, firing a kiln with the wood, and making bricks. The brick workers were not paid with cash but with bricks. This enabled the workers and townspeople to build the large brick homes that are still standing today. Panguitch is filled with unique history and traditions. One such story is derived from an early sheriff, James W. Pace, who with his wife Hanna lived on the town’s main street. The story holds that when federal agents came to Panguitch hunting polygamists in the middle of the night, Hanna would light a lamp and set it in the window to signal all men in the neighborhood to go into hiding. During the first settlement of Panguitch between 1864 and 1867, members of the LDS Church paid tithes with produce and livestock that were kept on the lot on which the Pioneer Museum now stands. The museum was first constructed as the bishops’ storehouse and was dedicated in 1907. Later, it was used for church classrooms and a seminary. In 1964, it was leased to the Daughters of Utah Pioneers for a museum, where visitors today can enjoy the fine collection of pioneer artifacts. Whether one is escaping the summer heat, enjoying summer fishing or experiencing fall colors, Panguitch is the base for a good vacation getaway.
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A
story and photo by JAMIE BROUGH/staff
deceptively steep and perilous journey, Zion’s Hidden Canyon is one of the area’s lesser talked about but highly rewarding hikes. It’s a climb with a calfshredding ascension of switchbacks and precarious ledges. Hidden Canyon is a “hanging canyon” wedged between Zion’s Cable Mountain and the Great White Throne. It was discovered as recently as 1927 after a climber accidentally fell into it. Alive, but battered he was found by a search and rescue team. A year later, a trail was completed and the hike was born. Of course any trip to Zion begs for a multiple-day stay, especially for hiking aficionados. But hikes like The Narrows require permits and may not be doable if not reserved far enough in advance. Of the 18 “Classic” Zion hikes, the majority are quite simple and do not require a permit, yet still provide opportunities for both soul searching and award-winning photographs. Hidden Canyon is often overlooked when visitors see the “strenuous” label on their guidebook, or “three hours to complete 2.2 miles.” Most who want to spend half the day scrambling up switchbacks and cliffs would rather go to Angel’s Landing. While Zion is usually packed during the summer, the foot traffic in Hidden Canyon is quite low compared to the other strenuous hikes. Your first reward after embarking up the cliffside is a proverbially breathtaking view of the Virgin River below, and the rock formations it wraps around. The view is pictured here. Your legs and lungs will likely be burning by the time you get up there, but the switchbacks begin to taper off when you reach a set of makeshift stairs. Made from the surrounding crags themselves and covered in a layer of green, the ancient-looking steps almost appear misplaced; a misplaced Aztec ruin transported in time. As you get closer to the canyon itself, the ledges seem to get narrower, but the views more spectacular. In some areas chains have been staked into the cliff sides to give something to grab onto. This is not a hike recommended for those who are afraid of heights. Once actually inside the canyon, low walls make way for an almost jungle-like array of plant life. Fallen trees and dense islands of forest checker the canyon walls. Near the end of the canyon is a 20-foot tall natural free-standing arch that can easily be missed in the surrounding shrub, so keep your peepers peeled. The tunes of owls, squirrels and a myriad of creepy crawlies can be heard bouncing off the canyon walls every step of the way. On paper the hike seems like a breeze - it’s only 1.1 miles from the trailhead to the canyon entrance, only half a mile to the arch, and roughly another half to a sign disallowing further progression. At 2.2 miles total, some experienced hikers may scoff, but do not be deceived. You will ascend close to 800 feet in under a mile before you even reach the canyon entrance. Most fellow hikers I saw along the way were panting as hard as I was at the top. And despite the short distance, much of the hike is in direct sunlight. Expect heavy exertion so bring plenty of water and proper clothing. Don’t be surprised when your 2-liter water bottle is bone dry by the time you descend back down. To reach Zion National Park from Page, head northwest on Highway 89 past Kanab. Turn left onto State Route 9 at Mount Carmel Junction and follow it until you reach Zion National Park. A week pass can be purchased for $25 per private vehicle, or $12 per person. Be sure to check out the visitor center and take advantage of the free shuttle service. It makes navigation around the twisty roads of the park much easier.
Zion
Zion’s Hidden Canyon
LESSER KNOWN CELEBRITY a day exploring buckskin gulch story and photo by JAMIE BROUGH/staff
Its images are everywhere. Its namesake sells tours, builds marinas and brings hundreds of thousands of visitors into northern Arizona each year, and all for good reason. Antelope Canyon is a celebrity worthy of its world-class reputation. What many visitors may not realize, however, is that a longer, more isolated, and some would argue, more beautiful slot canyon is a mere 40 miles northwest of Page near the Utah/ Arizona border. This of course, is Buckskin Gulch - the longest continuous slot canyon in the United States. For those seeking a slot canyon experience without the thick air of “touristy” that surrounds Antelope Canyon, Buckskin Gulch is it.
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The most popular trailhead to Buckskin can be reached by driving northwest on Highway 89 from Page. Near milepost 26, right after an elevation ascent and steep turn, hang a left onto House Rock Valley Road. The entrance and signage are slightly obscured so drive slow. House Rock Valley Road is a wellmaintained dirt and gravel throughway, but can be impassable during monsoon season when it gets wet and muddy. Stay up to date on weather patterns before attempting to drive through. Two wheel drive vehicles will handle the road fine, but higher clearance vehicles are recommended as the road has a few steep dips. Follow the road southwards for about eight miles until you reach a parking area on the right. This is the start of
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the Wire Pass trailhead. A small fee of $6 per person is required and can be paid via the honor system at a self-help booth in the lot. Skimping here isn’t worth a massive ticket from the Bureau of Land Management. Two other trailheads also give access to Buckskin Gulch. The Buckskin Trailhead is further back on House Rock Valley Road, but starts right at the canyon’s origin and is rather unremarkable as the canyon walls are shallow and the formations meager. The Middle Trailhead is further north near the Paria River but requires climbing gear to descend into the canyon. The Wire Pass trailhead on the other hand, is the perfect median as it provides a short and beautiful trek through a surprisingly lush desert washbed surrounded by the Coyote Buttes. The Wire Pass side canyon itself is a good warm up for what to expect next. A vast opening will greet you two miles into the hike as Wire Pass perpendicularly meets with Buckskin Gulch. From here, go right and follow the canyon eastwards for as far as your heart desires. The canyon twists and turns for roughly 13 miles until it meets at a confluence with the Paria River. It then continues for a few more miles east and eventually spills out into the Colorado River at Lee’s Ferry. While initially narrow when entered from Wire Pass, and unlike Antelope Canyon, Buckskin Gulch
boasts some unexpected and seriously varied landscapes. Within just a few hundred feet you can find yourself squeezing through shoulder-width slot canyon walls, then around the next bend gasping at a verdant canyon mouth of 300-foot high walls and dense vegetation. The canyon itself almost seems to breath as the curvaceous rock formations shift into vertical cliffs and back again, all happening within less than a mile. As you trek further eastwards, the canyon steadily grows wider and greener as it nears the Paria River. The terrain shifts from sandy to rocky in short intervals, and elevation change is minimal for much of the trek until you start reaching the Paria River confluence. Although shade is plentiful and temperatures are generally cooler due to high elevation, ample water and appropriate desert gear are essential. Navigation is simple but, like any slot canyon adventure, always be wary of flash flood conditions. This is a hike to set an entire day aside for. While following the canyon all the way to the Colorado River or even the Paria confluence is doable, it is strenuous and may require climbing gear for a couple particularly steep areas. You would also need to prepare a ride out from Lee’s Ferry if you planned to do the whole thing in a day. But for a good rigorous dayhike, trek as far in as you’re comfortable with and then simply turn when you’ve had your fill. The hike can be as strenuous or easy as you want to make it.
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KNOW THE SIGNS The Dangers of Triple Digits story by nicole REITHER/sPECIAL TO THE GATEWAY
I was sixteen, and it was one of the biggest days of my life, or so it felt like at that moment in time. I woke up, grabbed a granola bar, threw on my jersey and warm ups and ran out the door ready to get to one of the biggest soccer games I would ever play. As my parents drove me to the field I listened to my music and sipped on a little water. My stomach twisted and turned with nerves leaving me with no appetite. During warm up I felt great, awake and ready to rumble. However as the sun began to heat up and the game started I noticed my vision becoming tunneled and blurred and my calves kept cramping as I ran down the field. I knew instantly what was happening. Along with triple-digit temperatures comes the need to protect ourselves from heat-related illnesses. During the Arizona summer, heat-related illnesses account for a large number of emergency department visits. The best way to deal with potential heat-related problems is to learn how to prevent them in the first place. This type of injury, one of the most common for athletes and non-athletes in summer, is completely preventable. There are three basic types of heat-related illness – heat cramps, heat exhaustion—and the most serious—heat stroke. Heat cramps occur mostly in the muscles of the legs, often causing severe pain and spasms. Intense exercise and sweating in hot temperatures can initiate these cramps.
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Fortunately, the treatment is simple. Find a cool place, rest and drink plenty of fluids, especially sports drinks, like Gatorade. In most cases, the cramps eventually subside. “Heat cramps are nasty cramps that happen in larger muscle groups due to losing large amounts of salt/electrolytes when you are exerting yourself for a prolonged time in heat,” explains Kai Scott, rehab services senior manager at Page Hospital. “When you consider heat injuries, you need to consider the elevated temperature someone is exposed to as well as the duration of exposure.” Heat exhaustion is experienced when dehydration and salt depletion occurs and is hallmarked with elevated temperature, heavy sweating, lightheadedness, tingling, headache and possibly nausea and vomiting. Heat stroke is the end point of the dehydration continuum and the signs and symptoms include elevated temperatures, absence of sweating, rapid breathing, low blog pressure, organ damage and mental confusion ending in unconsciousness. “Dehydration can also cause heat exhaustion. Along with heavy sweating, symptoms include dizziness, weakness, nausea, extreme thirst, anxiety and fever. The hallmark is hot, damp skin,” said Scott. “Treatment for heat exhaustion differs slightly from heat cramps: heat cramps can be eased with electrolyte/salt solutions and heat exhaustion should be treated with rehydration as well as replenishing electrolytes. Treatment for heat exhaustion, and all heat injuries in general,
should be sought urgently. If your condition does not begin to improve after moving to a cool place and drinking fluids, you must seek medical attention immediately.” The most dangerous heat-related illness is heat stroke, which is also life threatening. Heat stroke occurs when the brain cannot properly regulate body temperature under extremely hot and humid conditions. The hallmark is hot and dry skin as the body stops producing sweat. When body temperature rises rapidly over 105 degrees an individual can lose consciousness and slip into a coma. Unless heat stroke is treated immediately, it can be fatal. “Drinking water is so important, especially in the extreme heat,” explains Scott. “Healthy adults hiking all day should be consuming four gallons of water per day. People should drink over 80 ounces of water per day as a baseline and add approximately a cup to a cup and a half of water or more per 20 minutes of exercise in a dry, hot environment and while engaging in physical activity.” If you must be outside, the best time is early in the morning or later in the evening, when the sun and heat are not as intense. Find shaded areas, make sure you have plenty of fluids on hand and listen to your body. If you begin experiencing any of these heat-related symptoms, act quickly. “There is a very short time window between the start of heat stroke and organ failure if the person is not treated immediately,” said Scott. “Heat stroke killed seven people in Arizona and 42 people in Nevada in 2013, and killed almost twice as many men as women, according to the National Weather Service Office of Climate.” Important tips for beating the heat: • Drink lots of water. • Plan outdoor summer activities for early in the morning
or late in the day • If you must be outside during the hottest time of the day, seek shade as often as possible. • Avoid drinks with caffeine, such as tea, coffee or cola. Caffeine can deplete body fluid. • Carry a spray bottle full of water to mist yourself when you are outside in the heat. • Never leave a child or pet unattended in a car. Temperatures inside a car can exceed 120 degrees – hot enough to cause death quickly. • Use common sense and listen to your body. If you start to feel ill, get out of the heat and seek help. Like me, Scott experienced heat stroke once while working as a wild land firefighter in Colorado. Her line-mate grabbed her harness as she was pitching forward into the fire line. “I would have not only been unconscious but also ablaze,” explains Scott. “I was evac’d out and recovered, but it still impacts my life even 20 years later, my window when exposed to heat from being fine to passing out is very small.” As for me, once I walked off that soccer field and before I hit the bench I too, took a tumble of unconsciousness. Luckily enough I caught it soon enough and was able to drink cold water and rest until back to health. However, some people are not as lucky, so listen to your body and heed the warning signs. Water, food and rest are your friends. Nicole Reither is with Banner Health, a nonprofit hospital and healthcare system with 24 hospitals in seven states, including Page Hospital. Built in 1958, the hospital serves Northern Arizona with a range of medical services that include emergency care, surgery, medical imaging, obstetrics, heart care, and rehabilitation. For more information, visit www.Bannerhealth.com/Page.
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GIANT WALLS OF ROCK The north rim of the grand canyon story by Laurel beesley/sPECIAL TO THE GATEWAY
At Point Imperial, the distant rising sun gradually spreads a blanket of warm red and gold light across the giant walls of rock, and the singular spire of Mount Hayden. The photographer wonders how he could possibly be here, alone, in the midst of this mind boggling landscape. Breaking his reverie, the evocative song of a Canyon Wren rises and falls in crescendo, just eight or 10 clear notes. It is, perhaps, the most memorable bird song of the West. The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is an experience wholly separate from the South Rim. A more remote, rugged and individual opportunity to see what John Wesley Powell described as, “ledges and cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view before it reaches a summit.” Of the 5 million people who arrive annually to view the 1.8 billion years of geology the Grand Canyon represents, only about 12 percent ever make a trip to the North Rim. From most points on the South Rim, unlike the North Rim, you can’t see all the way down to where the Colorado River runs. At a 1,000 foot greater elevation, the North Rim offers what are considered the best three complete views of the Canyon; Tuweep, Point Sublime, and Cape Royal. Access is via Hwy 67, a beautiful drive through rich conifer forest and past Jacob Lake. The majestic Grand Canyon Lodge-North Rim, with its excellent on-site restaurant, is a good place to begin your adventure. The North Rim has the highest concentration of plateau-top trails in the Grand Canyon, so hikers new to the 8,000 foot altitude, or with baby carriages,
are able to enjoy a walk with a view. Easily reached via a quarter-mile, paved walkway, Bright Angel Point has spur trails with spectacular views of distinctive canyon buttes and rock temples. Early mornings, and sunset views from Bright Angel are a rave with photographers. Vista Encontada, another stopping point, is a great place for a picnic lunch. Other more remote, stunning overlooks include Point Imperial, Walhalla Plateau, Cape Royal, and Point Sublime. The drive to Cape Royal has great views of the canyon that can be seen along the road. Be sure to stop at Roosevelt Point, and take the short loop hike with a view of the Little Colorado River. Access to the well-named Point Sublime is only possible with a 4WD, but is well-worth the extra effort. Information on each location is available at the Visitors Center. To fully experience the Grand Canyon, you should get inside the canyon. Mules have carried visitors down the precipitous trails since 1920, and still provide a safe, easy and enjoyable way to explore. For the more intrepid visitors who prefer their own two feet, the North Kaibab trail winds its way from the lodge all the way down to the Colorado River. It is advisable to begin early morning, while it is still cool, and be prepared. Know your own level of athleticism and remember that it is all uphill on the way back. Hiking is one of the most rewarding ways to see Grand Canyon, and can be the most challenging. Several stopping
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Guided 6 Hour Trips to Antelope Canyon 6:45 am - 2 pm - Kayak Tours $150 per person
816 Coppermine Road, Page, Arizona
www.kayakpowell.com • 928.660.0778
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points along the North Kaibab trail provide tremendous, unforgettable views. Rangers also offer a number of Walk and Talk tours, pointing out the popular wildlife and describing the geologic history surrounding you. At night, in the pitch-black skies above canyon walls, lucky guests staying at Phantom Ranch can gaze at stars that stun. Back-packing, mule or river boat is the only way to reach the only lodging available deep down in the heart of the Canyon, next to the Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek. The rustic wood and boulder cabins, built in 1922 by Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, are a great place to stay and discover many more canyon secrets. And, to hear the cascading, unforgettable call of the Canyon Wren. Side-Note: The official Grand Canyon National Park – North Rim, is not the only way to continue your adventure here. Tuweep (or, Toroweap) is a lonely outpost in the North Western corner of the Grand Canyon. Rising over 3,000 feet above the Colorado River, the view dropping down across sheer rock is awesome, and unique. Lava Falls, the river’s most challenging rapid, can be seen – and heard – from this precipice. This is a backcountry adventure, and requires preparation or the company of a Guide. Free camping is allowed in the Tuweep Campground. Go to: www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/tuweep.htm Many other options exist in the North Kaibab Forest. The Kaibab Plateau-North Rim Scenic Byways winds through meadows and forests ending at Grand Canyon National Park’s North Rim. Over 300 miles of trails, some clinging to the rim of the
photo courtesy of bre
At the End of Your Day ...
Set up & delivery available.
Low, Low Prices! Order Now While Supplies Last
Summer Specials available on Firewood
• Deluxe guest rooms with fridges, coffee pots, irons & ironing boards • Boat parking/AC power
• Convenient location • Free wireless internet • Breakfast • Guest laundry
LAKE POWELL
Round or Split
Nationwide Reservations 1 (800) DAYSINN
Property Direct (877) 525-3769 Toll Free
4890 W. 36th Ave., Church Wells, UT 87471
Lake Powell Days Inn & Suites • 961 Hwy 89 • Box 3910 • Page, AZ 86040
435-899-0681
(928) 645-2800 www.daysinn.net
58 Gateway to Canyon Country
Grand Canyon, offer a diversity of challenge and solitude and spectacular views only shared by local wildlife. Some trails include bike routes, some go to cool streams and hidden waterfalls. Fire Point, JumpUp, Crazy Jug, Rainbow Rim Trail; to discover more go to: http://www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab. For further information on planning a visit to the North Rim and surrounding areas, go to www.visitsouthernutah.com.
Restaurant and Pizzeria
Fine Family Style Italian Dining A Lake Powell tradition since 1982
Premium Stone Baked Pizza and Calzones, salads & more...
Dine Outdoors on our covered terrace!
oto courtesy of brent johnson
WE DELIVER! CALL 645-2605
Open 7 days a week beginning April 1.
711 N. Navajo Dr., Page, AZ
Full service facility!! All makes & models We service RV coach interiors & under the hood: Fridges, a/c, water heater and more.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 59
TOWERING ARCH rainbow bridge an awe-inspiring monument story by GATEWAY staff
Tucked about 50 miles back into the canyons of Lake Powell resides one of the region’s most awe-inspiring monuments, Rainbow Bridge. The towering arch, which rises 290 feet into the sky and spans 275 feet across the runoff creek that sculpted it, is made of soft red Navajo sandstone. More than 30,000 years ago, a stream of melted snow wound its way from Navajo Mountain through the bridge’s canyon, across the top of the Kayenta formation, to the Colorado River. At the site of Rainbow Bridge, water chanced to flow in a tight curve around a narrow leg of Navajo sandstone; eventually, the channel forced its way through the rock to form Rainbow Bridge. The ancient bridge is featured prominently in local Native American traditions and histories, but has been known to the Anglo world for just a couple hundred years. Trappers, prospectors and cowboys likely heard of the natural wonder during the course of their ramblings, but the bridge was not publicized until 1909. In 1910, President William Howard Taft created Rainbow Bridge National Monument to preserve the sandstone marvel. A ride to Rainbow Bridge from Wahweap Marina takes about two hours; a round trip, including a half-mile walk to the arch and back to a courtesy boat dock, lasts about five hours. Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas, at 100 Lake Shore Drive, is one of a handful of companies that runs commercial boat tours to Rainbow Bridge. The trip length has grown longer in
60 Gateway to Canyon Country
recent years due to the Lake Powell’s lower water levels. These times can change during the peak months of early summer when water levels are rising quickly. For those at Antelope Point Marina and/or wanting a slightly more private experience, a private boat and captain can be chartered for a flat rate with up to six passengers allowed aboard. Round trip times can be significantly lower due to the boat’s speed and the flexibility of fewer passengers. Only five percent of Lake Powell, which stretches 186 miles long, falls within Arizona state lines. The bulk of the lake, along with Rainbow Bridge, sits on the Utah side. From the canyon’s dock, the hike to the bridge can vary wildly depending on lake levels. With current projections, tour guides estimate it’s close to a one and quarter mile trek. The payoff for the relatively easy hike comes as visitors round a bend and first spot Rainbow Bridge. There are plenty of places from which you can take great photographs of the monument, but National Park Service employees ask that visitors respect Native American beliefs about the sacred bridge and refrain from walking under it. Be careful of the plants and animals - mostly lizards - you will cross on your trip as well. Stick to the trail and be mindful of where you step. Pets, fishing, rock climbing and swimming are not allowed in the park. For more information on Rainbow Bridge National Monument, call (928) 608-6404 or visit www. nps.gov/rabr online.
GATEWAY FILE PHOTO
When the Canyon King lost her Coast Guard cetification in 2008 and could no longer serve as a tour boat, owner Gary Francis stepped in to give the Canyon King her final port of call. The Canyon King has a new home in its ‘rockin’ dry dockin’ location serving gourmet pizzas, fresh salads and homemade pastas, specializing in Arizona Micro-brews, a wonderful wine list and full bar. Enjoy Our Patio Dining
(928) 693-7173 663 S. Lake Powell Blvd. @ Hwy 89, Page, AZ Open 4 pm to close. www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 61
WHERE THE LOCALS GO THE CHAINS AND HANGING GARDEN ARE HIDDEN GEMS The Chains and Hanging Gardens are two hidden gems of the area that aren’t on many people’s radar when visiting Page. It’s a local favorite among those who call Page home. From Page, take US 89 towards Glen Canyon Dam and turn right onto the dirt road just before the dam. From the gate, the Hanging Gardens trailhead is a half mile and marked with an educational plaque about the hike and the area. The trail is flat, easy to follow and a one-mile, roundtrip, out-and-back hike to a hidden oasis. Hanging Gardens is a Navajo Sandstone overhang where water seeps out of the walls and provides the right conditions for Maidenhair fern to flourish in a tiny pocket of otherwise brown and dry terrain. The green plant life growing straight out of red sandstone is quite ironic, yet it is a wonderful example of how things survive and thrive in harsh conditions. A local swimming hole, known affectionately as The Chains, is two miles down the road from the Hanging Garden trailhead. Previously, a dirt road once gave access to the popular swimming spot, but was washed out during heavy monsoon flooding in 2013. The area is still accessible via a hike down the same path, but be warned that it is peppered with uneven terrain and devoid of shade. Bring plenty of water and sun protection, and enjoy the pay off when you reach the shore’s edge. While it’s a very popular area among locals, the lack of a road has inevitably caused a decrease in traffic. For those
willing to make four-mile round trip hike, the crowds won’t be near as bad as they have been in seasons past. You can also hike further up lake and find your own personal beach where the swimming is one of the best spots on Lake Powell. The terrain is always changing due to current water levels, in which new pools surface and vanish yearly. There are bathrooms at the Chains and it is for day-use only. National Park Service recently reported that they had received funding to restore the road and are currently in the process of contracting a crew, with a tentative completion date near the end of the summer.
Beer Wine Liquor
Bait & Tackle • Full Archery Shop Largest selection of Yamamoto Baits in the country!
62 Gateway to Canyon Country
ON A TOUR OR ON YOUR OWN
this lake amazes. Small Boat Rentals • Scenic Boat Tours • Lakeside Lodging • Fine Dining RV Park & Campground • Houseboat Rentals • Overnight Slips • Marina Services • At Wahweap Marina
Call 928.645.2433 or visit us at lakepowell.com
Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, managed by ARAMARK, is an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, AZ/UT.
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Discover The Best A D V E N T U R E A N D VA L U E I N T H E W E S T Take a break from your life and raft the Colorado River in Glen Canyon. Experience the beautiful blue-green waters and the majestic walls and discover the way to the past with Colorado River Discovery. We offer half-day and full-day motorized raft tours along with our all-day oar powered trips. Rafting a day on the Colorado River is the perfect escape. Call or book online today! Colorado River Discovery is an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon 64 Gateway to Canyon Country National Recreation Area.
Horse Shoe Bend - Another of Mother Nature's little tricks
888-522-6644
www.raftthecanyon.com