2FOCUS
2Focus fashion
dining
property
driving
Fit for Royalty A rare fine dining find like Napa on 26 can only fly under the radar for so long... Gavin Nazareth It’s hard to say at what point during the evening you give in to the seduction of Napa on 26. It could be the moment you walk into the sophisticated dining room and are enveloped in its warm, happy blend of earthy browns and soft creams, accentuated by rich caramel and deep burgundy. Or, was it when you swiped through each wine’s appellation, tasting notes and rating on the iPad that was handed to you? It might also have been simply that instant when your palate discovered the delicate interplay of flavors in the food. Chef-owner William Schillinger is a deviously clever man. He lures first with his elegant jewel-box of a restaurant, and then keeps you spellbound with an encyclopaedic wine list that
Pan-Seared Snow Fish on a White Bean Purée with Pink Grapefruit Beurre Blanc
156 2magazine
is in harmony with the simple ingenuity of the menu, before flooring you with his cuisine. Just beyond the entrance a casual lounge wraps itself around the black marble bar, its dramatically lit shelves filled with crystal glasses and bottles of choice liquors. To the left, a private room seats eight in comfy leather wing chairs as they dine off bronze and gold dinnerware that was designed to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Versace’s Medusa line. It is the perfect room to impress visiting business associates or celebrate some hardfought boardroom triumph. A wall of wine bottles sitting in a temperaturecontrolled enclosure sections off the main dining room. On the floor a burgundy carpet has
Hamachi Ceviche and Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio with Chardonnay Smoked Sea Salt
dining
travel
been made to order to imitate a bird’s eye view of wine country, a subject also reflected in the rows of wooden beams that cover the ceiling. Clever lighting enhances sumptuous surfaces and fabric textures, suffusing the ambience with a romantic warmth. Large tables covered with crisp linen, and surrounded by oversized seating, complete the picture. The menu here changes every month introducing new innovations and seasonal specialities, while a daily set lunch menu and a Sunday Brunch afford one an appetiser of the a la carte offerings. “It’s European cuisine with a Californian influence,” says master culinarian Schillinger, whose resume spans a diversity of places that
Hokkaido Scallop on a Vanilla Flavored White Wine Risotto
Strictly Private Exclusivity comes at a price. In the case of Napa on 26, if you’re looking to entertain around eight guests and foresee a minimum consumption of 80,000 baht, the private dining room (main picture) can be all yours. To make the occasion extra-special Napa will take out their limited-edition Versace plates, fine Robbe & Berking silverware and Schott Zwiesel glassware for an occasion that will be the talk of the town. We called on renowned flower artist Sakul Intakul for this table arrangement to add the perfect finishing touch.
include Japan, the US, Hong Kong, Indonesia and the Middle East. “And that only means an emphasis on fresh and light ingredients and cooking styles that preserve these qualities.” It’s a philosophy he easily demonstrates in all his dishes. Take the amuse bouche that arrives on a large white platter. The earthy flavors of a classic mushroom duxelles are combined with potato blini and then painted with a fresh intense pesto sauce for a satisfying prologue. Or the next offering, that seems to imitate a Japanese tsuru (crane) painting; a delicate carpacio of Hokkaido scallops together with a ceviche of silky hamachi with Chardonnaysmoked sea salt (400 baht). Then there is another signature, the faint spice from a Gewurztraminer gel cuts through the richness of the XO Goose liver terrine (700 baht) for sumptuous mouthfuls that will have you moaning for more . A simple sweet corn soup (350 baht) is transformed under Schillinger’s command into a thing of brilliance. Tiny slivers of chorizo add a piquant bite to the creamy sweetness of the liquid. But the waiter informs that the secret ingredient is a bit of sweet potato that pulls the dish together. For the mains, pan-fried snow fish (750 baht) is served on a bed of white bean purée and ‘Beurre Blanc’ that is cut with pink grapefruit to balance sweetness of the fish with a hint of acidity. The beef is a six-ounce serving of US beef
tenderloin (1,500 baht), nicely seared crisp outside and a beautiful rose inside. A divine mash of truffle-flavored potatoes and an invigorating dark sauce of black peppercorns accompany it. With some 300 labels of which 25 are exclusive, Napa’s wine list adds another dimension to the meal. A dry and crisp Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc 2007 (3,200 baht) from California teases with notes of green apple, citrus and melon and is the perfect start to the meal. Yes, given the heritage of its name, the largest selection is from California, including a selection from Screaming Eagle, a tiny winery that produces highly sought-after cult cabernets. Other wine regions around the world are adequately represented with top drops from Chateau Margaux (France), Gaja (Italy) Penfolds, Grange (Australia), Cheval des Andes (Argentina), and Vega Sicilla (Spain). These are hard acts to follow but the desserts intrigue as much as the main courses are interesting – like the Orange Crème Brûlée (200 baht), served in scooped out orange rind for added zest and covered with a net of spun sugar. It is impossible to stop craving more after the first spoonful. Also of note is the sharp wasabi ice cream served with halved grapes that add a touch of sweetness to the zing. At the end of the meal, with its considerate and anticipated service, it’s fairly easy to vow to return another time. And you know it’s a promise you will keep. 2
Opal Lamb Loin served with Mini Ratatouille
IN A NUTSHELL What: Napa on 26 (www.napaon26.com) Type of cuisine: European with a Californian influence Our verdict: Highly recommended Hours: 16:00 -23:30 (Tuesdays and Wednesdays), 11:30-23:30 (Thursdays to Sundays), closed on Mondays Dress Code: Smart Casual Reservations: +66 (0)2 258 2623
157 www.2-mag.com