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VIP Dining Room
Winds of Change High up, above the sparkle of Bangkok’s Friday night bedlam below, Breeze is not living up to its name tonight. The wind gods seemed to have taken the day off. Gavin Nazareth
Superlative Shark’s Fin
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Amuse Bouche (Tuna Tartare in Homemade Cones)
Stewed Baby Lamb Shank with Garlic Foam
But that in no way detracts from the impressive dining experience this spectacular eatery The Dome at lebua offers. Indeed, it does tend to take your breath away – several times. First, as the express elevator zips 52 floors skywards, then, just as you regain it, the dramatic entrance does it again. A continuum of colored lights illuminate the glass bridge that is your ‘transition’ to the al fresco dining area where it culminates in a viewing gallery, suspended mid-air, for heart-stopping views of the City of Angels. Breeze recently re-launched, and now Chef James Ho, fresh from the awardwinning Singaporean restaurant ‘My Humble House’, wields the spatula in the kitchen. He, in tandem with another celebrity chef and consultant, Sam Leong, have moved away from the original ‘seafood only’ menu to one that re-jigs traditional Asian dishes, using quality ingredients from around the world. So, expect the unexpected. Explaining his direction for the restaurant, Leong, who has plated food for public figures like Singaporean Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew, former US presidents George Bush and Bill Clinton, and Queen Elizabeth II, says, “The dishes we have created represent an evolution in Asian food. Although based in tradition, the idea is to take flavor and presentation a step further.” And walking in step with him, Ho adds that he is looking forward to introducing new dishes that will entice and delight diners at Breeze “as they share and taste the unique creations we have planned for the menu.” The first time around, opt for the ‘Special Chef’s Tasting Menu’, a five-course walkabout, to get a taste of the duo’s culinary direction. The starter at any meal, for me, is always a measure of the person in the kitchen, and a good barometer of the quality of food that is to come. Here, much thought has gone into it,
matching ingredients and flavours, to create a unique palate pleaser. Chinese cashew nuts are roasted, dipped in honey and rolled in sesame seed for added crunch. These come with julienne of mango and radish served with five different types of sauces that are sourced from a variety of Asian countries. This tasting menu also comes paired with wine if you are so inclined. A crisp Chardonnay pairs well with the Combination of Crispy Wasabi Prawn and Cigar Spring Roll. The prawn is perfectly cooked; crisp on the outside, but succulent within, the warm creamy wasabi sauce sweet at first, but with a hint of burn on the finish. Paired with this, the exceptional cigar-shaped spring roll filled with crab cooked with yellow curry powder comes with a mango and dragon-fruit salsa. The moon emerges from behind a cloud to add its silvery light to the magical ambience. The second course arrives, an elongated oval bowl with pumpkin soup and an island of a plump scallop in the centre. The lightly spiced potage with its velvety texture makes it easy to ask for seconds, but with three more courses on the way it’s best to practice some selfrestraint. In quick succession, Chef Ho shows us why he is at the top of his game with what is easily the jewel on this sampler menu. With a nod to his island country, the impeccable waiting staff brings out the Singaporean Style Chili Alaskan King Crab with Crisp Chinese Bun. The long Chinese bun is perfect for mopping up the thick piquant sauce the rich crab flesh sits in. The penultimate dish could easily be a onedish meal; a generous pillow of foie gras atop a thick slab of wok-fried Kobe beef, combined with a rectangular timbale of garlic fried rice. Instead of the usual fruit and berry sauces that accompany it, port wine is used to balance the richness of the liver, and it works well to augment the flavours.
Dessert is a playful collaboration of coconut and chocolate in the shape of a smiley face. A coconut mousse forms the centrepiece, while chocolate varietals add a lushness that is designed to bring your palate gently down to earth. Satiated, with single malt in hand, and looking down at the bright city lights, you know that the chef duo is going to take Bangkok’s collective breath away with the quality and scope of their culinary skills. 2
Chef James Ho and Chef Sam Leong
IN A NUTSHELL What: Breeze Where: The Dome at lebua (www.lebua.com) Type of cuisine: Contemporary Asian Our verdict: Fine dining at its, well, very finest in one of Bangkok’s most glamorous outdoor settings. Price: Moderately Expensive (The cost of the five-course Special Chef’s Tasting Menu is 4,300 baht ++ per person for food only, and 6,500 baht ++ per person paired with wine.) Hours: 18:00-01:00 (last orders at 23:30) Dress Code: Smart Casual Reservations: +66 (0)2 624 9555
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