Eating Samui by Gavin Nazareth

WINE & DINE

Eating

Samui The island has added a diverse culinary scene to the heady mix it already offers travellers. We take a look at the posh nosh being plated. Text: Gavin Nazareth

42 BEYOND FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

WINE & DINE Every dish that Jutamas, who graduated in printmaking and lithography from India, sends out is a winner; bold and innovative, they take the taste buds on a roller coaster ride. There is chocolate mille-feuille with salmon, goat cheese, poached quail eggs and rocket, drizzled with honey mustard. It’s decadent, the bitter-sweet chocolate a nice foil to the firm elegance of the fish. Then there is roast quail, nicely crisp on the outside, moist inside; it is stuffed with spinach and foie gras. The accompanying wild rice pilaf is lightly spiced and seasoned with coriander seeds and cardamom for flavours from the Indian sub-continent, and supplemented by beetroot and goat cheese.

Opening pages: Gourmet offerings at the ultimate beach club: Nikki Beach. This page: Chef Jutamas Theantae showcases ‘Indo-Chine’ influences at Le Jaroen Restaurant.

Even after all that, the selection of desserts tempt: The quandary is the choice: the clove-infused whole banana with creme Anglaise, black pepper chocolate sauce, caramel nuts squares and egg-white crumbles, or the savarin with aged rum and vanilla ice cream? A tip: try both.

Sala Samui Restaurant It’s a lazy afternoon at this beachfront restaurant, and most diners are nibbling on gourmet thin-crust pizzas, fresh salads, or some local delight; My starter though is king scallops; two plump nicely seared scallops sit on a bed of black rice, accompanied by steamed green onions, chorizo, with a tomato, lemon and basil

he recipe has changed. After decades of attracting visitors with huge servings of the sun, sand and sea, Samui has, in recent years, added a diverse culinary scene to the mix, securing it a top spot on the to-eat list of many foodistas. The popular beaches of Chaweng, Bophut, Maenam, Lamai, Nathon among others are a melting pot of gastronomic delights, allowing you to eat your way around the globe. So if it’s kimchi and kebabs you hunger after or foie gras and fajitas you crave for, it’s all served up on this island better known for palm-fringed white sand beaches lapped by the azure waters, tranquil bays, tropical forests and stunning sunsets. Start off with a sumptuous breakfast at your hotel, lunch at one of the beachside eateries for some local delicacies, and finish off your postcardperfect day in a fine-dining restaurant at one of the many brand name hotels dotting the island’s palm-fringed shoreline that serve up everything from classical French to Thai cuisine with a twist. Prices range from the ridiculously cheap but top-notch streetside fare, the mid-range, though sometimes mediocre, international surf and turf choices, up to the pricey, complete with imported 44 BEYOND FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

ingredients, fine wines, and stellar whiteglove service. But you are guaranteed to find a meal that suits your palate and wallet. Given the diverse range of eateries that inhabit the island, here are a few that are constantly resetting the bar.

Le Jaroen Restaurant It is easy to miss The Scent Hotel located on Bangrak beach. A single wooden door set in the high wall is the only entrance to the “secret world” of this member of the Relais et Chateaux association of fine boutique resorts. Within, the twostorey colonial-style property, wrapped around a volcanic-tiled swimming pool, offers 15 rooms decorated in one of three styles; with bright colours and rattan representing local flavours; Chinese with dark lacquer and soft fabrics; and the quiet minimalism of a European design hotel. Its signature restaurant, Le Jaroen,

sits on an expansive terrace, fronting the beach. Open air and surrounded by frangipani trees, it seats just 30 diners, and is the perfect place for chef Jutamas Theantae to showcase the ‘Indo-Chine’ influences of her food. “It’s food cooked with very French techniques but using mostly Thai ingredients,” she explains. A light breeze blows, sweetly scented with the sea and frangipani carrying with it the muted susurration of banter from nearby tables, overlaid by the hypnotic cadence of the waves below the terrace. Overhead, the moon hangs low, bathing the sea in a silvery sheen, and silhouetting everything else. It is, without a doubt, a romantic setting. The first course arrives: scallops sashimi. It’s a rainbow of flavours; salmon roe offers a briny complement to the buttery scallops, while caramelised Thai peanut sauce with a hint of wasabi brings a sweetish bite offset by the accompanying rocket leaves. It’s a delightful prelude to the things to come.

dressing, and a sprinkle of chilli. The rice is a nice counterpoint to the delicate shellfish with the chorizo and the dressing adding piquant and citrusy notes. It’s a perfect example of the culinary options executive chef Nick Hall and his team are serving up the stunning deluxe pool villa SALA Samui Resort & Spa on the pristine Choeng Mon beach. Sharing the same name as the hotel, the spacious open-sided restaurant with a stunning vista of the Gulf of Thailand, shares space under a beautiful wooden beamed roof with the black granitetopped Beach Bar. To one side a walk-in wine cellar holds a wide selection of Old and New World wines. Nick tells me that the restaurant changes its colours during the night, transforming into a finedining eatery. “For the night service, we change everything, from the linen to the tableware and cutlery. It’s very different

Sala Samui Restaurant offers a beachfront gourmet experience.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

BEYOND

WINE & DINE in the night,” he says. Foodwise, he says, dining at SALA Samui is not just a meal, but also “a journey of flavours and culinary creations from around the world.” Something that is evident in the main course he serves me. The “60° Duck” comes highly recommended. Local duck breast is marinated with lemon, poached at 60 degrees, and then roasted. It is served on a bed of apple puree and surrounded by crumbled Samui island feta cheese, rocket leaves, thyme, gnocchi, white onion and pickled apple cubes. It’s a wonderful blend of flavours and textures; the skin crispy, much like Peking duck, gives way to the juicy tender meat. The menu has plenty of choices, including three set menus, Irisa, Isigar, and Sala Sea. The first two named after the chef’s children offer diners the best of local tastes from Samui and the surrounding areas, and some of the most famous dishes from the Central region of Thailand, while the last is a seafood sampler. It’s time for something sweet and Nick brings out his signature fondant. Luxuriously warm dark Valrhona chocolate forms the core of this dessert. On the plate is a line of sour cherries, a sprinkle of chocolate soil, a brushstroke of chocolate paint; a scoop of morello cherry ice cream sits in a small puddle of Maldon sea salted caramel topped by a crisp tuille.

Namu Walking into the W Retreat Koh Samui, it’s not hard to see why everyone has

46 BEYOND FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

been raving about it. The funky hilltop lobby looks down on the shimmering turquoise of the Gulf Thailand where its location on the northern most part of the island affords it both panoramic sunrise and sunset views. Eye-catching colours, shapes and textures are paired to a cutting-edge design. It’s philosophy that runs to their restaurants with Namu being the flag-bearer. Minimalist clean lines accessorised by stylish individual elements mark the décor of the restaurant. A dramatic textured ceiling, flanked by green glass rods representing bamboo, spirals downwards. The lighting is subdued infusing the ambience with an intimate vibe. Diners can sit outside at one of the four tables on the beachside terrace, at one of only six tables inside, or at the best seats in the house along the counter of the open kitchen. Executive chef Matthew Woolford offers “a taste of Asia’s tomorrow, today”. “It is how food will evolve in the future. How it will awaken the senses,” he explains, adding that the menu integrates the flavours of Japan, Korea and China. Char-grilled edamame starts off evening along with a Kura Rickey, a delicious combo of kura sake and passion fruit. The menu is divided into three sections, Ice, Action, Fire, which is describes the way each dish is cooked rather than the order they should be eaten. And as promised dish after dish does ignite the senses. It does so in the paper-thin hamachi served with leeks and a zesty chilli mint dressing. Or in the sea bream carpaccio and tomato nicely

seasoned in sherry vinegar and shiso. The exploration of the depths of the sea continues with crunchy soft shell crab tempura that gets a flavour-boost from briny tobiko and buttery avocado, rice paper and lettuce. A sumptuous shiso and shitake gyoza accompanies plump prawns that benefit from the tang of salmon roe and chopped spring onion. Stir-fried wide wheat noodles, or udon, is dressed with a bite of chilli, and served with nice creamy chunks of Maine lobster. Meat dishes come with a symphony of signature sauces like the mastsusake steak served with saiko miso and gorgonzola, or the teriyaki seared 9+ wagyu sirloin that is highlighted by a ponzu tang and accompanied by silken tofu. As a sweet end to the meal, there are plenty of choices, but watching chef Mathew torching a sabayon to be served

EATING SAMUI

This page: Take an epicurean journey through Thailand at Poppies Restaurant.

with marinated strawberry gratin and almond ice cream is a treat.

Poppies Restaurant

Chef Matthew Woolford offers ‘a taste of Asia’s tomorrow, today’ at Namu, W Retreat Koh Samui.

Under the roof of a beautiful Ayutthayastyle wooden pavilion, this restaurant has been feeding diners since 1995. And for some regulars it is a tradition to eat here whenever they are on the island. Located at the south end of Chaweng Beach, away from the hustle and bustle of the main resort area, it is part of the Poppies Samui Resort. On the way to the restaurant, we pass luxury cottages nestled among lush tropical gardens, crisscrossed by paths and wooden bridges over streams and cascading waterfalls; it is a tiny magical oasis that has guests coming back year after year. A balmy breeze is blowing through and most tables are already taken both by large family groups as well as honeymooning couples enjoying a candlelight meal. John Ens, the general manager, says their extensive Thai and international menu utilises fresh tropical ingredients with a strong emphasis on locally caught seafood. “Our menu is presented in two sections, western style with an Asian twist and traditional Thai,” he tells me. They also have a full vegetarian menu for

those so inclined. The Thai menu is sectioned into starters, stir-fries and curries and includes tasty favourites such as satay gai, succulent pieces of marinated chicken with a rich creamy peanut sauce; yam talay, fresh local seafood poached with a piquant celery, onions and lime dressing; and neua, pla pad nam man hoy, stir-fried tender beef or fish with spring onions and mushrooms in oyster sauce. Opting for the Western menu throws up surprises among the standard pasta and grilled items like the delightful nori wrapped lobster: in crispy panko breadcrumbs, drizzled with sweet ginger and soy sauce, or the exquisite white tuna carpaccio with snow fungus, Thai basil and lime leaf salad. Highly recommended though is either Poppies Seafood Extravaganza that starts with prawn bisque, and includes char-grilled Phuket lobster, prawns, squid, scallops, mussels, and white tuna fillet served with a selection of sauces including lemon butter, garlic butter, spicy Thai sauce. Or as we did, opt for the traditional kantoke. Traditionally people in northern Thailand used to sit on small cushions around a low table called “toke”, while the food, an assortment of traditional northern finger food, was

นอกจากจะขึ้นชื่อในเรื่องของชายหาด ที่สวยงามแล้ว เรื่องอาหารการกินนั้น เกาะสมุยก็โดดเด่นเช่นกัน โดยมีอาหาร หลากเชื้อชาติและมีให้เลือกมากมาย หลายระดับ ไม่ว่าจะเป็นรถเข็นข้างทาง ร้านรวงริมถนน ไปจนร้านอาหารหรู ในโรงแรมห้าดาว Le Jaroen นั้นตั้งอยู่บนระเบียงกว้าง หันหน้าออกชายหาด เป็นร้านเปิดโล่งล้อมไป ด้วยต้นลีลาวดี เชฟจุฑามาศเสิร์ฟอาหารที่มี กลิ่นอายแบบอินโดจีน โดยใช้ส่วนผสมของอ าหารไทยรวมกับวิธีปรุงอาหารแบบฝรั่งเศส ซาซิมิหอยเชลส์เสิร์ฟกับซอสถั่วรสหวานและ มีรสเผ็ดของวาซาบิตัดกับความหวานฉ่ำของ เนื้อหอยทำให้ได้รสชาติที่แปลกใหม่ จานเด่นที่ Sala Samui Restaurant ต้องยกให้ 60° Duck ซึ่งเป็นอกเป็ดหมัก ด้วยน้ำมะนาว และนำไปเคี่ยวที่อุณหภูมิ 60 องศา แล้วจึงนำไปย่าง เสิร์ฟบนแอปเปิ้ลบด ตกแต่งด้วยวีสและผักหลากชนิด ทำให้จานนี้มี หลายรสชาติและหลากสัมผัส ส่วนที่ร้าน Namu นั้นเป็นการผสมผสาน ระหว่าง ญี่ปุ่น เกาหลี และจีน เพิ่อให้ได้ อาหารเอเชียแปลกใหม่ที่จะปลุกทุกประสาท สัมผัสของผู้ที่ได้ลิ้มลอง โดยในเมนูแบ่งเป็น สามส่วนคือ น้ำแข็ง การเคลื่อนไหว และ ไฟ ซึ่งบ่งบอกถึงวิธีการปรุงในแต่ละจาน แทนที่จะแยกตามลำดับการเสิร์ฟ ถัดมาที่ Poppies Restaurant มีทั้งอาหารไทยแท้ๆ และอาหารดะวันตกที่มี กลิ่นอายของเอเชีย นอกจากนี้ยังมีขันโตก อาหารเหนือให้ลิ้มลองอีกด้วย ที่ Nikki Beach นั้น เชฟปีเตอร์เชี่ยวชาญ ในการผสมผสานอาหารหลากหลาย อย่าง เชวิเช่ปลากระพงเสิร์ฟคู่กับส้มตำ หรือแพนง ที่เชฟใช้ปลากระพงแดงทอดเสริมด้วยผักบุ้ง สุดท้ายที่ The View Restaurant & Wine Lounge หนึ่งในสมาชิกของ Secret Chef Society ซึ่งเริ่มมื้ออาหารด้วยกุ้ง สดแช่เย็นเนื้อแน่นพร้อมซัลซ่ามะม่วง ต่อด้วย อกไก่ยัดไส้ด้วยชีสมอซซาเรลล่าและมันฝรั่งบด ตามด้วยของหวานที่ทำให้นึกย้อนไปถึงวัยเด็ก FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

BEYOND

WINE & DINE The View Restaurant & Wine Lounge This restaurant does live up to its name. During the day, it has a stunning view over the cobalt blue sea and outlying islands. As night casts its dark cloak, silhouetting everything, the shadows in the distance are broken by the twinkling of lights from the passing parade of fishing boats. Executive chef Saowakit Preeprem is a new addition here to the KC Resort and Over Water Villas, but he is no stranger to the kitchen, starting his career in 1968 in Don Muang, Bangkok, cooking for US Airforce personnel during the Vietnam war. He moved on to Hilton Rama before taking over as executive

served on a “khan”, a platter with small bowls. At Poppies, the three versions, traditional, seafood and vegetable are served on a rattan tray. Ours, the traditional kantoke, and plenty for two people, comes with spicy prawn soup with lime leaf, stir-fried morning glory, fried chicken with ginger, charcoal roast duck curry, deep-fried prawn cake with plum sauce, steamed Jasmine rice, and Thai desserts. It’s a mouth-watering epicurean journey through Thailand.

48 BEYOND FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

The Details n Getting There:

Double Daily to Samui. Actual miles = 500 minimum miles.

The Scent Hotel: www.thescenthotel.com Tel: 0 7796 2198 Email: info@thescenthotel.com SALA Samui Resort & Spa: www.salaresorts.com Tel: 0 7724 5888 Email: info@salasamui.com W Retreat Koh Samui: www.starwoodhotels.com Tel: 0 7791 5999 Email: reservations.wkohsamui@whotels. com Poppies Samui Resort: www.poppiessamui.com Tel: 0 7742 2419

Chef Peter of Nikki Beach mixes and matches elements from various cuisines.

Nikki Beach: www.nikkibeach.com Tel: 0 7791 4500 Email: info.kohsamui@nikkibeach.com KC Resort and Over Water Villas: www.kchotelsresorts.com Tel: 0 7742 8088 Email: sales@kchotelsresorts.com

Chef Saowakit promises a delectable experience at The View Restaurant and Wine Lounge.

Nikki Beach The amoeba-shaped infinity-edge swimming pool dominates the place. Bronzed bodies lie supine on the signature cream-coloured sun loungers and day beds as the sun umbrellas and swaying palm trees play light and shadow games with the sun. This is Nikki Beach. Billed as the ultimate beach club, available in different flavours in eight countries, and a favourite with the international jet set pack, it is reputed for bringing dining, music, fashion and entertainment together at one venue. More a day club of sorts at other Nikki venues, this particular property also offers 16 boutique stand-alone rooms designed by leading architect Eric Custer, the only existing hotel in the brand’s

chef at the Narai Hotel and Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit Bangkok. Today, with 40 years of experience he is an honorary advisor of the Thai Chef Association of Thailand and an advisor of Samui Chef Club. His boss, general manager Andreas Kramer, is a founding member of the Secret Chef Society, an association which includes some of the finest restaurants on the island such as The View Restaurant & Wine Lounge, Nikki Beach, The Cliff Bar & Grill, Red Snapper, and Rocky’s. Membership includes VIP access upon arrival at one of the Society restaurants, preferred seating at a uniquely adorned table and a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. Aside from being given the standard restaurant menu, they

portfolio. Chef Peter is an expert at mixing and matching different elements from various cuisines to create signature dishes. To start off he sends a sampler platter of starters. A ceviche of sea bass is paired with a zesty papaya salad for a taste of the local favourite, som tam. Spring rolls offer a contrast in textures, nicely crisped pastry covers a mildly spiced vegetable filling. There is a refreshing Andalusian-style gazpacho, garnished with red pepper, Spanish onion and cucumber brunoise. Sesame seeds add a delicate nutty flavour and crunch to the

ahi tuna and wakame salad. Two types of crispy tortillas, corn and flour, are great nibbles with the spinach and artichoke dip highlighted by a perky tomato salsa. For mains, there is the outstanding Australian herb-crusted lamb rack served on a bed couscous salad accompanied by a creamy butternut squash puree and rosemary au jus. Recently added to the menu is the chef’s take on the local Panaeng curry; he uses delicately fried local red snapper, pairing it with sautéed morning glory, Thai crispy rice salad and a medley of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, and red curry paste.

will also be presented with a select, preferential menu restricted to Society members that will consist of dishes from the host Chef’s innermost inspiration and fancy. To whet the appetite, Saowakit sends out a teaser of chilled but firm fleshed tiger prawns with a citrusy salsa of mango, corn and capsicum. A silken coconut milk soup forms the base of his Samui seafood chowder filled with flavourful chunks of seafood. A squeeze of lemon adds a delectable tang to it. Another must-try on the menu is the Reuben sandwich; two slices of dark rye bread enclose a hearty mix of corned beef, cabbage and onion sauerkraut, emmentaler cheese and waxy potato; it’s a meal in itself. As a main I opt for the chicken breast stuffed with mozzarella and mashed potatoes. And if there is one dessert you should have, it is the sticky cinnamon bun with jaggery, pecans, vanilla and mango; it’s a brief trip back to childhood. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

BEYOND