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on the menu
Conducting A Feast
Artur at work is like watching a music conductor in motion; a flick of his wrist and the manager presents the menu, a nod ensures empty dishes are cleared away, a raised eyebrow reminds a wait staff that she has slipped up. Later, watching him carve an order of whole Dover sole at a guest’s table reinforces the image of the conductor guiding the orchestra with his baton through a particularly difficult piece, as he deftly de-bones and slices the fish. He is, without a doubt, a perfectionist in the best sense of the word, or simply is trying his upmost to offer guests at his eponymous restaurant at the Bliston Suwan Park View in Soi Tonson the best experience possible. And having headed three iconic restaurants in Bangkok over a span of 18 years, he does know a trick or two about keeping his guests happy and satiated. Like when he recommends a wine to a table and tells them if they don’t like it he would drink it. Opened in November 2009, his restaurant, a stone’s throw from the Chidlom BTS station, blends the classic with a touch of art deco. “I wanted to do something genuine, a timeless classic restaurant. In New York, it would be a steakhouse, while in Paris, it is a maison bourgeoisie. It’s like an American in Paris, one that reflects French flair,” he says. The heavy doors open onto an elegant rectangular dining room dressed in rich red velvet, and complemented by deep hues of brown and black. At one end is the Martini Bar, accessorised with Tamara de Lempicka paintings that add a touch of whimsy. At the end of the room are floor-to-ceiling windows that offer a garden view. Comfy banquettes line the walls on either side of the room, while to one side is a semi-private section. It’s easy to see that much thought has gone into the choice of flatware and stemware as well. The lighting is moody all around, with spots above the tables to highlight the food. Kick off the evening with a pick from the selection of martinis; the lychee martini comes recommended, and from the first sip it is evident why it is; crisp and cold, just the right balance has been struck between the fruity sweetness and the grain of the alcohol. Chef Raphael Kinimo’s amuse bouche is a sumptuous créme ciboulette with an end note of curry spices. Served in an eggshell, it’s simple, yet begs for another serving, and is a taste of things to come.
Raphael Kinimo is from Lyons and spent the early years of his career working with illustrious names like Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon and Marc Veyrat. A crisp Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand pairs well with the next order of half-a-dozen French oysters. But these are no ordinary shellfish either. The Marennes-Oléron Spéciale de Claires Oysters are different from normal fine de claires as they spend the last few weeks of their growth in shallow clay ponds (or claires) that were once ancient salt pans; it’s what gives them their distinctive tint and taste. Artur tells me the best way to eat them is au naturel or with a dash of the onion vinaigre that is served alongside. They go down easily, the plump flesh with its remarkable balance of sweetness and brine perfectly capturing the essence of the sea. It’s hard to ignore the soups on the menu and the velvety lobster bisque with pan-roasted crustacean ragout is a nice bridge to the next course, pan-seared foie gras, in which chef Rapael underlines the rich creaminess with an apricot glaze and poached peach quarters. Diners will be spoilt for a choice of mains that includes maple and mustard glaze fillet of Scottish salmon, imported whole Dover sole, chicken ballotine stuffed with mushroom duxelle, and the classic canard a l’orange carved tableside by Artur himself. There are several different steak cuts, and guests can choose from Australian Tajima Kobe beef and Australian and American Angus beef. The menu also offers two special cuts. Labelled ‘Artur’s Cuts’, both are carved tableside by him. The first is the cote de boeuf, a flavourful, juicy Wagyu grain-fed prime rib, and the second, and our choise, the filet de boeuf Artur style. Prime Australian filet mignon is cooked with herbs and bone marrow for a tender, succulent piece of beef and then drizzled with a foie gras sauce that is one of the two gourmet speciality sauces; the other one being Rocquefort. There is also a choice of 16 side orders to accompany the steaks, including potatoes sautéed with duck fat, creamed spinach with garlic, crisp imported onion rings, or pilaf rice. After a meal like that it is hard to think of the dessert menu, but how does one say no to Artur’s delicious ice nougat with passion fruit sauce? Artur Restaurant, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini Tel. 081 172 7189; 02 658 6289, Email: artur@ArturRestaurant.com
Left: Artur Kluczewski
Owner of Artur Restaurant Artur Kluczewski is in total control, providing diners with a perfectly conducted feast of unusually high standards Text: Gavin Nazareth Photo: MEI PHOTO CENTRE
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