Spotlight
Asia’ s top tables Words: Gavin Nazareth
It’s a delicious list that serves up restaurants across Asia that have broken new ground with menus that are experimental and inspirational. Sawasdee speaks to the three chefs who took the top three spots on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list.
T
he Oscars of the culinary world came to town this year, bringing in its wake the usual circus of chefs, restaurateurs, industry VIPs, foodies, and media. Now in its fourth year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Aqua Panna, revealed the 2016 list at a glitzy awards
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ceremony at the W Bangkok. An offshoot of the widely anticipated and coveted World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards put together by the UK trade publication Restaurant magazine, the Asian edition is voted on by The Diners Club Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential group of over 300 leaders in the restaurant industry across Asia.
“Now in its fourth year, these awards reflect the growth and diversity of Asia’s dining scene. The 2016 list includes 10 new restaurants and showcases the best dining experiences in 13 countries, more than ever before,” said William Drew, group editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, adding that the list endeavoured to “reward creativity as well as culinary excellence. Thailand stuck several pins on the gastronomy map, firmly reiterating its ambition of becoming a serious contender on the regional dining scene that has long been dominated by heavyweights Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan. It did this first by earning the right to hold the ceremony this year, wresting that privilege from Singapore, where the first three editions of the awards were held. It then followed it up by retaining the No. 1 spot on the list for the third consecutive year in a row, with the Bangkok-based Indian restaurant, Gaggan, retaining the dual titles of “The Best Restaurant in Asia” and “The Best Restaurant in Thailand”. Three other restaurants in Thailand made the cut too. Chef Pongtawat ‘Ian’ Chalermkittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club, which serves up modern Thai cuisine raced up 20 spots to No. 19, while the gastronomic ingenuity of Tim Butler at Eat Me lifted it two places to weigh in at No. 23. Chef David Thompson of Nahm in Bangkok and Long Chim in Singapore was this year’s recipient of The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award, but his outpost in the Thai capital dropped one place to No/ 8. Narisawa in Tokyo and Restaurant Andre in Singapore claimed the No. 2 and No. 3 spots on the list respectively. While Cheryl Koh of Tarte in Singapore was voted Asia’s Best Pastry Chef, Chef Margarita Forés of Cibo in Manila, The Philippines, claimed the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016. The Chef’s Choice Award went to Paul Pairet of Ultraviolet and Mr & Mrs Bund in Shanghai.
The top three chefs GAGGAN ANAND No. 1 two years in a row now. What next? For now we just want to focus on what we are doing and how we can take our food forward from here.
After being ranked on the list four years consecutively, what is the one dish that has brought you so far? Our “Yoghurt Explosion” and “Tandoori Lamb Chop”. These items have been on the menu since day one, and I believe they will be there until the end.
The one thing you would change on your culinary journey if you could go back in time? Nothing! I am lucky to have the track record that I do today, and have absolutely no regrets.
What new trends do you see in Asian cuisine in the future? Lots of comfort food from Asia, but with surprising twists.
A favourite culinary technique? Grilling with charcoal oven. Whether it’s tandoor, a spit-fire oven or a yakitori grill, the flavour you achieve is so natural and organic.
Where do you get your inspiration? My inspiration comes from every part of my life, especially my travels, the street food in India, and the artistry of Japanese cuisine.
An ingredient that is over-hyped? What excites you about going into the kitchen every day?
Caviar and truffles.
Cooking. Meeting my team, who are now my family! That and nd creating new dishes with them.
Favourite culinary destination and why? Japan. I love their cuisine, their ingredients, and the high standards of quality they deliver with everything from the snacks in their 7/11s to the most exclusive restaurants.
“My inspiration comes from every part of my life, especially my travels, the street food in India, and the artistry of Japanese cuisine.” Describe your food philosophy in brief. It has 5 Ss: Salty, Sweet, Sour, Spicy, and a Surprise!
Your favourite restaurants in the world and in Bangkok? In the world, that would be El Cellar de Can Roca in Girona, Spain and in Bangkok, currently it’s Krua Kling Pak Sod in Thonglor.
One dish from your menu that no customer should leave without trying? The “Story of Kin Medai: Four Acts of Fish”. It’s one great ingredient explored in very different ways.
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Spotlight YOSHIWARA NARISAWA You have ranked on the list for four years consecutively, so what is the one dish that has brought you this far? My menu has an “Innovative Satoyama Cuisine” theme, which is a Japanese term to describe mosaic landscapes of different types of ecosystem. The “Soil Soup”, “Water Salad”, “Sumi-Charcoal”, “Evolve with the Forest”, “Life and Die” are dishes directly made with ingredients from nature.
The one thing you would change on your culinary journey if you could go back in time? When I started, French cuisine was everything. So if I could go back, I would like to learn other types of cuisine such as Spanish, South American and Asian as actual stages. Of course, it would only after learning the basics.
What excites you about going into the kitchen every day? Receiving fresh ingredients every day from different places around Japan excites me, but on the other hand, when something unexpected happens at work, that also excites me.
What new trends do you see in Asian cuisine? Not just in Asia, but a new trend will be the cuisine that
expresses its own culture and history of its country.
A favourite culinary technique? Using a charcoal grill with Bincho-tan (a kind of Japanese charcoal)/
An ingredient that is over-hyped? Foie gras.
Favourite culinary destination and why? Japan. We have a variety of ingredients available both from the sea and mountain. Also with four seasons, we never get bored as there are plenty of variations. There’s always something new to discover.
Describe your food philosophy in brief? I cook and eat thinking about the earth’s environment and how food in the future will be able to sustain our eating habits for another 20-30 years.
Your favourite restaurants in the world and in Japan? I have many friends in the world who have fantastic restaurants, and I like them a lot. This question is like asking me who is my favourite friend. If I have to choose one, my restaurant is my favourite.
ANDRE CHIANG After being ranked on the list four years consecutively, what is the one dish that has brought you so far? Warm foie gras jelly with black truffle coulis, which was created in 1997 and is served even today
The one thing you would change on your culinary journey if you could go back in time? The meal my mom made daily for my school lunchbox.
What new trends do you see in Asian cuisine in the future? Food trend 1: Fermentation. It is something that everyone has tried to explore for many years, and I think in the next coming few years there will be a breakthrough. Food trend 2: Tasting menu: It has been around for many years, and I think it is here to stay as it helps the chef perfect his dish and also save costs. Food trend 3: Chefs cook and serve: We love interaction, personal, intimate service. Also the chef has become celebrity and it’s so hard to find great service staff. There are many reasons, which makes this concept seem to be a solution for all.
An ingredient that is over-hyped? Dry-aged steaks.
Favourite culinary destination and why? Tokyo, Japan, where all kinds of cuisine are cooked to perfection.
Describe your food philosophy in brief? Octaphilosophy. Eight dishes created based on eight words/elements; Pure, Salt, Artisan, Texture, Unique, Memory, South, Terroir.
Your favourite restaurants? Taipei: Sasa Sushi/ RAW Taipei/ Shi-Yang-Shan-Fang Paris: Chateaubriand/ Alain Ducasse, Plaza Athenee/ Astrance Copenhagen: Relae/ Geranium/ Amass
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