WINE & DINE
Singapore’s Gourmet District Marina Bay Sands is the Lion City’s newest foodie enclave showcasing Michelin star chefs from all over. Text & Photos: Gavin Nazareth
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t looms large over us as our taxi navigates its way down Singapore’s East Coast Parkway, shimmering in the sunlight like a giant spaceship atop a gantry. Close-up, in its driveway, Marina Bay Sands, the newest addition to island country’s skyline, is even more overwhelming, physically. Numerically too, it defies logic and boggles the mind. With its price tag of US$5 billion, it has dethroned previous title-holder, Emirates Palace Hotel in 42 BEYOND DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011
Abu Dhabi at US3$.3 billion, as the most expensive hotel to build. Its footprint spans 10 million square feet of prime real estate at the mouth of the Singapore River. Three towers, based on a deck of cards according to resort’s creator Boston-based architect Moshe Safdie, soar 55-storeys skyward, housing the 2,561 rooms, including 18 different room types and 230 luxury suites; for the well-heeled, the price-tag of the palatial Chairman Suite is loose change
at US$14,444 per night and includes four bedrooms, two living rooms, steam and sauna facilities, a games room, bar, media room and a team of butlers. Spanning the top of the three towers is the Sands SkyPark, and what gives this mixed-use integrated resort, its eyepopping silhouette. At 1.2 hectares, this striking architectural sculpture is longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall and large enough to park four-and-a-half A380 jumbo jets, or three football fields; and
Left: The spectacular lobby of Marina Bay Sands.
it extends into space to form one of the world’s largest public cantilevers. Its landscaped gardens are home to 250 tree and 650 plants, an exclusive restaurant, and what is the world’s largest outdoor pool. But to lap this 150-metre infinity swimming pool, you definitely need a head for heights. The water offers an illusion of ending in a sheer drop, though in reality it spills over the edge into a catchment area a few metres below and is then pumped back into the main pool. Still unimpressed? Well, this citywithin-a-city also features a 1.3 million square-foot flexible convention and exhibition space that can accommodate over 45,000 delegates and 2,000 exhibition booths; the ballroom can host 6,600 people banquet style, or 11,000 auditorium-style. To indulge the shopaholic within all of us, an 800,000square-foot space houses ‘The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands’ featuring luxury retailers from Cartier, Franck Muller, Gucci and Hugo Boss to Anne Fontaine,
Leviev, Marisfrolg and Wolford. The list continues with two theatres with a combined capacity of 4,000 seats that will stage top acts from around the world, a museum shaped like a lotus flower, an indoor canal, nightclubs, and a skating rink. There’s more, plenty more, but extra trees would be required to catalogue everything Singapore’s newest icon has to offer. The money-spinner is the casino of course with its four levels of gaming, and 600 gaming machines and over 1,500 slot machines spread over an area of 15,000 sqm. And most people milling around the hotel are hoping that Lady Luck will deign to smile upon them. Not being a betting man, myself, I am here to indulge a more basic need: food. But not just any food! Though Marina Bay Sands offers 50 dining experiences throughout the humungous complex, I am here for chefs like Hide Yamamoto, Santi Santamaria, and Guy Savoy who have opened satellite outlets here. The plan is to eat around the clock and sample what three of them have on offer.
dish out an East-meets-West fusion, he offers a mostly authentic Japanese menu. The setup allows patrons to indulge in four completely different menus and experiences, a Robata grill, a teppanyaki, a ramen noodle bar, and the sushi bar. Sitting at the tiny blonde wood sushi bar, behind which Seki adroitly plies his trade,
HIDE YAMAMOTO Chef Takuma Seki is in perpetual motion; slapping, poking, twisting and sculpting, much like a balloon artists at a child’s birthday party. In between, he offers regulars a newly created titbit, shouting greetings in Japanese to newly arrived guests. Without a doubt, he is the showman of celebrated chef Hide Yamamoto’s multi-concept128-seater eatery of the same name. Here, in contrast to his other restaurants, which
Clockwise from top: Hide Yamamoto’s Chef Takuma Seki works on tuna; Wagyu sirloin with accompaniments; edamame with truffles.
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Singapore’s newest icon, Marina Bay Sands.
and he insists on a sample of the Tuna Otoro that has just come from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market from where all their products are sourced. He puts four pale pink slices of this prized cut, the fattiest portion of the fish taken from the part of the belly closest to the head. It is firm, nicely marbled, a sensuous, melt-in-the mouth luxury that lingers on the tomgue. Savouring the fresh flavours of the otoro, it is fascinating to watch Seki conjure up a batch of Spicy Tuna Rolls. Working with a chunk of tuna, he quickly whittles it down to bite-sized morsels. Adding a touch of mayonnaise, he uses the traditional makisu bamboo mat to fashion the sushi rolls. The chilli flakes he speckles the rolls with add bursts of flavour that play off the tuna and the buttery rice. They are perfect and one wonders how he is going to top this one. But the man has more tricks up his sleeve, and his next offering is a culinary curveball, edamame, or soybeans, lightly 44 BEYOND DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011
sautéed with finely chopped black truffles. Sleek with oil, the beans still have a crunch to them, while the earthy flavours of the truffles bring a certain richness to the palate. The place is buzzing now, with one wave of sated diners making way for more eager to genuflect at Seki’s altar. Acknowledging the newcomers with a greeting, he and his assistants move into a flurry of action. Minutes later the he has added to his fan base. Any notion that it was time for a dessert is firmly nixed as a boat-shaped platter with wagyu sirloin is set before me. At Hide, a partitioned tray holding a selection of accompaniments comes with this prime beef. In it is ponzu, garlic flakes, steak sauce, wasabi and soy sauce, Hawaiian pink salt and Japanese mustard, all of which give one the feeling that the meat has been prepared in a variety of styles. Personal favourites were the ponzu and the pink salt.
A word of advice, at the end of a course, don’t catch Seki’s eye as he takes it as a signal you want more. But one learns the hard way, and my penalty was a platter of otoro kataki, a generous slice of that delicious otoro on a little pillow of rice that is impossible to refuse. Like the sushi, the desserts here, by Kenji Kawasaki formerly of the Armani Café in Ginza, are sensational too. They are creative, and choices run from the playful Snowman of Valrhona Chocolate Mousse Sphere, which is black sesame jelly, green tea ice cream, and white sesame caramel, to the cosmic Planet Saturn – a Yuzu Seltzer Bombe complete with a sweet ring over it, and hazelnut parfait. My pick is the Japanese Cappuccino, an inspired confection layered in a martini glass. At the bottom a dark coffee jelly, the middle chocolate mousse surrounded by mascarpone cream, topped by kinako (soyabean powder) ice cream, almond flakes, and
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little chocolate beads. The manager comes over and suggests eating all the layers together. It’s a trifle difficult to do, but the result is akin to a delicious snowstorm in your mouth. Departing, Seki thanks me and says he hopes to see me back; in the stead, I should be the one expressing gratitude for an immensely satisfying meal.
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Top right: Chef Santi Santamaria; Veal shank as envisioned by Santi Santamaria; Gambas Ravioli ‘Santi Santamaria’. Above: Inside Santi, all dark wood and crisp linen.
epicurean conference, “We’re a gang of frauds who work to distract snobs.” His mark of success has been preparing simple things with intricacy, keeping his dishes that are guided by a respect for seasonal ingredients, a love of fresh seafood and meticulous attention to flavour, both basic and sophisticated. His Singapore outpost offers an exciting, contemporary culinary experience where his Catalonian style is enhanced by the influence of different Asian cuisines. His roots are also evident in the design of the restaurant with its dark wood accented by custom artwork ‘graffiti’ and glass enclosures. For dinner, Santi offers elaborate tasting menus in the main dining room; there is a five- or a seven-course, and what is termed as a ‘surprise’ menu. The bar and lounge offers smaller tapas
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Santi Santamaria is one of the big hitters on the celebrity chef roster at the Marina Bay Sands. Located on the mezzanine level of the casino, his restaurant simply named Santi features an elegant main dining area with private rooms, a wine cellar that can seat up to 80 people, and a stylish, tapas bar and lounge. A traditionalist at heart, Chef Santi is credited with introducing the rest of the world to authentic Catalan cuisine. And despite having no formal training, his restaurant Can Fabes in Catalania was awarded three Michelin stars, while a second restaurant in Madrid, Santeceloni, has two stars. He has also been in the news for criticising the purveryors of the molecular gastronomy, saying at one
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Santi
menus, perfect for a nibble and wine from their impressive selection. Keeping in mind the next port of call, we opt for the menu at the bar. Gianni Bartolomeo, the assistant head sommelier suggests a nice red as an accompaniment. A couple of sips later the first in a procession of dishes appear, an “Assortment of Iberico Charcuterie Platter with Pa’amb Tomaquet”; Thinly sliced ham made from black Iberian pigs is paired with bruschetta seasoned with olive oil and salt for a medley of flavours and textures that serve as a window to the temptations to come. And they come in quick succession. A delightful Gazpacho with Crab follows. Chilled, the refreshing tomato flavours are accented with olive oil, fresh almonds, and crab flakes for a smooth finish on the palate. Then there is tender Galician octopus plancha with a glaze of orange sauce, an earthy chanterelle mushroom confit, before a sublime quail with foie gras escabeche forces us to call it quits. It is time to move on but not before a promise is made to return for the surprise menu. DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011
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WINE & DINE
singapore’s gourmet district หากพูดถึงโรงแรมใหม่ของสิงคโปร์ แน่นอนว่าต้องเป็น Marina Bay Sands ทางฝั่งตะวันออกของเกาะ ด้วยทุนสร้างสูงกว่า 3 พันล้านดอลล่าร์ จึงการันตีความอลังการบนพื้นที่สิบล้านฟุต ได้อย่างแน่นอน โรมแรมสูง 55 ชั้นถูกแบ่งออกเป็น 3 อาคาร สำหรับห้องพักทั้ง 18 แบบ ซึ่งด้านบนสุดของอาคารสร้างเป็นสวน ลอยฟ้าที่มีชื่อเรียกว่า Sands SkyPark ขนาดกว้างเท่าสนามฟุตบอล 3 สนาม ร่มรื่นด้วยต้นไม้เพื่อความผ่อนคลายขณะว่ายน้ำในสระที่ใหญ่ ที่สุดในโลก นอกจากการต้อนรับดีเยี่ยมให้แขกทุกท่านแล้ว ยังให้บริการ ห้องนิทรรศการและห้องบอลรูมที่จุคนได้หลายพันคนเลยทีเดียว จุดเด่น อีกอย่างของที่นี่คือเราไม่จำเป็นต้องไปห้างเพื่อช้อปปิ้งเพราะแบรนด์ระดับ โลกรวมอยู่ที่นี่แล้ว ทั้ง Cartier, Gucci Hugo Boss และอีกมากมาย หรือคุณอาจลองเสี่ยงโชคที่คาสิโนของโรงแรม ส่วนร้านอาหารดีที่สุดใน Marina Bay Sands ต้องยกให้ร้าน Guy Savoy ที่การันตีรสชาติด้วย เชฟดีกรีมิชเชลลินสตาร์ อันได้ชื่อว่าไม่มีที่ติ ซึ่งมีเมนูเด่นอันได้แก่ อาร์ติโชคต้นหนากับซุปทรัฟเฟิล ทานกับเห็ดปิ้งในเนยทรัฟเฟิล และเมนูนกพิราบ ที่เลือกปรุงได้สองแบบคือเนื้อกรอบ หรือทานพร้อมโฟกราส์และแตงซุกินี แต่หากชอบเมนูปลา ต้องลองรสชาติของปลากะพง พร้อมฟองนุ่มหอม กลิ่นวนิลลาและขิง แถมเพิ่มรสจัดด้วยพริกไทยเสฉวน นอกจากนั้นการ ตกแต่งสไตล์โมเดิร์นยังน่าประทับใจไม่แพ้รสชาติเช่นเดียวกัน แต่หากชื่น ชอบความเป็นส่วนตัว ต้องลองไปที่ Santi เพราะมีห้องทานอาหาร ส่วนตัวที่ตกแต่งด้วยงานศิลปะและกระจก ที่เชฟ Santi Santamaria เสิร์ฟเมนูแนวคาตาลันที่ผสมผสานกับเอเชียนอย่างลงตัว เช่น นกกระทาปิ้งกรอบ ทานพร้อมโฟกราส์และลูกเกด เห็ดเพอร์ซินีกับ สตูว์เนื้อเหนียวนุ่ม และทูน่าญี่ปุ่นที่ใช้เนื้อส่วนท้อง ตามด้วยแอนโชวี่ใน ซอสวินนะเกรท ซึ่งแต่ละจานจะรสกลมกล่อมขึ้นอีกเมื่อได้จิบพร้อมไวน์ หรือจะนั่งสบายๆที่บาร์ก็ได้ ปิดท้ายที่ร้าน Hide Yamamoto ที่เด่นด้าน ราเมน เทปันยากิ โรโบตะ และซูชิ ส่วนเมนูแนะนำคือ Japanese Vegetable Symphony ที่ทำจากผักแปดชนิดด้วยวิธีการที่ต่างกันทั้งหมด รวมถึงเกี๊ยวซ่าเนื้อวัว และถั่วแระผัดเห็ด 46 BEYOND DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011
Above: Chef Eric Bost of Restaurant Guy Savoy. Top left: Restaurant Guy Savoy.
Restaurant Guy Savoy It’s only half past seven and it’s already a full house at Restaurant Guy Savoy. Wait staff zip around like welloiled machines, taking orders, uncorking wine, making recommendations. But despite the hustle and bustle within, General Manager Damien Le Bihan is relaxed; He is, together with executive chef Eric Bost, an old hand, having worked at the Guy Savoy restaurants in Paris and Las Vegas. And his job is to ensure this one too keeps the culinary maestro’s reputation intact. From the hues of browns and cream, chic furniture, crisp white linens to the glittering views of the Singaporean skyline the dining room is a pretty picture of understated modernist elegance. The youngest of the French legends credited with pioneering “Nouvelle Cuisine”, Chef Guy Savoy’s unerring attention to detail, and intimate knowledge of the very best the earth has to offer, has made his Parisian flagship one of the finest hautecuisine establishments in the world. And the menu from that three-Michelin-starred gastronomic temple is echoed here. Diners can choose either ala Carte or opt for the 10-course Menu Prestige. For us, Damien and Eric have put together a special tasting menu that will showcase their cuisine. A tiny palate teaser
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WINE & DINE of us; one cup faces upwards, the other down. A cold potato and leek soup is poured into one cup. A garnish of zucchini and almonds is added, and finished off with lemon powder. Lifting the cup to sample the deliciously creamy soup reveals another edible treasure: tiny tartlets filled with sautéed chanterelle mushroom; eaten with the soup the flavours are amazing. Stepping up next to the plate is the frivolously named Peas All Around; English peas, twice peeled to extract maximum flavour, are served over a pea gelée, in a pea purée, the dressing is chive oil while micro-greens and a quail egg are the final embellishments. The green, grassy flavours of the peas, nicely balanced by the slightly bitter microgreens and the rich, creamy egg, are meant to embody the seasonal transition from spring to summer. Theatre comes to the table with a large perforated platter shrouded in vapour. As a cold consommé is poured into the dish, the veils of mystery dissipate, revealing a tartare of Maine lobster carpaccio, raw cooked in cold steam. It sits on a beetroot and carrot patty, adorned with lobster eggs. The
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is brought out first, waffle squares filled with parmigiano reggiano, a simple delight that sets the stage for the main acts that are to follow. A waiter uncovers the colourful water droplet-shaped containers sat on our table and whose purpose had baffled us until this moment. It is sea salt, freshly ground peppers, as well as salted and unsalted butter to eat the enormous variety of fresh bread served. A word of caution though, refrain from constantly nibbling at the bread if you have opted for the 10-course menu. An espresso-like double cup with a matching saucer is set down in front
Clockwise from top right: A coconut based dessert at Restaurant Guy Savoy; A look inside the elegant restaurant; Artichoke and black truffle soup, layered brioche with mushrooms and truffle butter.
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meat is sweet, with just a hint of the sea, and complimented by the citrus essence of the cold broth. The Seabass with Delicate Spices is a Guy Savoy signature, and is the perfect showcase of his culinary talents. Cooked skin side down to make it crisp, the fish fillet is covered with a ginger-vanilla foam, and served with baby shitake mushrooms, Swiss chard, and seasoned with black pepper, fennel and Sichuan pepper. The fish is moist and tender, contradictory to the mouth-watering crispy skin. The mild bitterness of the chards and the shitake’s earthiness add an uplifting finish to the dish. And if that is not enough to convert us to his nouvelle style, his most famous dish is wheeled out: an artichoke soup with shaved Parmesan and slices of black truffle that emit a sumptuous heady aroma. Accompanying it is a flaky brioche, layered with truffle butter, and stuffed with mushrooms, that you are encouraged to sop up the soup with. A dish for the gods, if there was ever one. The desserts come fast and furious at us. If you have to make a choice, try the two signatures ones: Strawberry Textures and Chocolate Orb. The first one is strawberry in three styles, a granite, a sorbet and dried chips, the latter is like Christmas present. A white chocolate sphere is put in front of us, and a waiter pours a ribbon of warm sauce across it. When it melts and cracks open, your “present” is revealed. This season it was aloe vera paired with passionfruit and warm mango juice. We declined the cheese course and the dessert trolley, that holds a spectacular variety of ice creams, sorbets, conserves and traditional biscuits.
The Details Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956. +65 6688 8868 www.marinabaysands.com
n Getting there 4 flights daily to Singapore. Actual miles = 886 miles
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