GAYA Magazine Mar-Apr 2018 - The Power Edit

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With Modessa • moga • modestissime • b.zarina • hijabican • fyi photography • and more...


FA SH I O N 

BEHIND THE LENS WITH EMMA

O PI N I O N 

KHOO OF FYI PHOTOGRAPHY 

A LOOK INSIDE MODESSA — THE

NOT BE AS HARD AS IT IS... 

ESSENSE OF MODEST FASHION 

B.ZARINA TAKES NEW YORK

LIVING ‘MUSLIM’ IN 2018 SHOULD THE SLIPPERY SLOPE OF INTERFAITH MARRIAGE



24 HOURS IN LIMBO

FASHION WEEK

MARCH/APRIL 2018



ORIENTAL FASHION SHOW & MODESTISSIME MAKE HISTORY WITH FRANCE’S FIRST MODEST FASHION PARADE



PRIDE BY MOGA



NIKE PRO HIJAB HITS

LIVING 

PINK IS ALL GROWN UP

FOOD 

HEALTHY BREAKFAST

SOUTHEAST ASIA 

THE HIJABICAN WOMAN



MOTHER PRIDE

BE A U T Y 

H E A LTH 

DIVERSITY IN THE HEALTH & FITNESS INDUSTRY

PREVENT & HEAL BREAKOUTS FROM STRESS

COVER Photography: FYi Photography HMUA: Amanda Lee Model: Joey Chan THIS PAGE Photography: FYi Photography Stylist: Shin Saehwan MUA/Hair: @candicetompkinsmakeuppage

Model: Iman Diarra

Disclaimer: All rights reserved. No part of this magazine or content may be reproduced or used without the wri en permission of the publisher: C.A. Editorial Consultants. All informa on contained in this magazine is for informa on only, and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the me of going to press. The views, ideas, comments, and opinions expressed in this publica on are solely of the writers, interviewees, press agencies, and manufacturers and do not represent the views of the editor or the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to ensure the accuracy and honesty in both editorial and adver sing content at press me, the publisher will not be liable for any inaccuracies or losses incurred. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit material to us, you automa cally grant C.A. Editorial Consultants a license to publish your submission in whole or in part in all edi ons of the magazine, including licensed edi ons worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world.


A

s I perused the submissions for this issue, one theme kept glaring at me - power. And not just women or female power but power in our voices, power in our convictions. And that is why, I’ve decided to title this issue The Power Edit. It wasn’t something we carefully crafted particularly to celebrate International Women’s Day (or month), although that would have been great, but it’s deeper than that. In this issue, we don’t just speak about the power of the female - as we interview powerful women in the fashion industry such as Emma Khoo of FYi Photography who talks about capturing the Alpha Woman in her shoots, or Abigayle Andre who beautifully encapsulates the power and femininity of the female in her fashion label, Modessa - but this time and for the first time, we also shine the light on MOGA’s PRIDE scarf that celebrates the LGBTQ+ community. It was a sensitive topic to broach, I won’t lie, but MOGA’s convictions in their stand inspired us to do the same. A powerful and beautiful piece definitely worth the read. Once again, I hope you enjoy this issue and as always, if you have a story to tell, we’re here to listen - so do get in touch.

Be brave, be you!

Juliana Iskandar EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, GAYA MAGAZINE

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OUR WRITERS Co-founder & CEO Editor-in-chief Juliana Iskandar juliana@gayamagazine.com

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Masiha Patel Mastura Koelmeyer Michaela da Costa Modestlywrapped Mumtahana Elahi Nada Alzalloum Nadia Ali Nafisa Bora Naseema Miah Nawal Boukir Nouhailah Rahma Talwar Reham Khan Roda Abdi Rym Shamas Sabera Hassanally Goulam Safira Adam Sajeda Sheikh Saleema Shah Salma Shalaby Sana Mahmood Sanae Chakrouni Sara Ahmed Sara Dekkiche Sarah Ali Sarah Ghanem Sarah Machbaete Shayma Syukron Shazia Javed Hassam Sheikha Haroon Shuhada Alauddin Siddika Jaffer Simone Doenvang Siti Nur Habibah Unaizah Toffar Wajeeha Amin Zahra Rose Alazaibi Zainab Onuh-Yahaya

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Fashion

BEHIND THE LENS with Emma Khoo of FYi Photography on fashion, feminism & the future.

PHOTOGRAPHER: DANIEL ADAMS (@DANIELADAMSPHOTOGRAPHY)

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Ipoh Old Town Revisited (Philocaly Magazine) Model: Joey Chan (@jo.chan__) Loca on: Sarang Paloh Heritage House, Ipoh

“I hope to see more fashion narratives that encourage and celebrate women whose beauty are not within the current standards monolids, dark skinned, hijabi, curvy, petite and more…” – Emma Khoo

hey say it’s a Man’s World – but is it really? We’ve grown accustomed to seeing men taking the reign behind the camera whilst women are usually seen as models and their muse. 7

But times have changed and today a growing number of powerful females take control of the lens,...and the narrative. With their own style, pizazz, and social agenda, these women are smashing the glass ceiling. We speak to one such power-woman, Emma Khoo of FYi Photography, who uses her craft to showcase the power of the ‘alpha woman’. Having been published and featured in various international magazines, Emma has been successful in capturing the essence of strong women and showcasing the beauty in diversity.

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Desert Oasis (Elegant Magazine) Crea ve director / Jewellery designer / Stylist by Avizeh (@avizeh_jewellery) MUA/Hair by Reena Thind MUA (@reenathindmua) Model: Ruth O

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How did you get into Photography? About five years ago, I got into photography in the most unlikely and unconventional scenario. I came to London to study a BSc in Architecture, not photography. During my first year, I was diagnosed with tenosynovitis. It was a life-changing event which meant my past interests in drawing, painting, and piano playing were out of the question, let alone continuing in architecture school. As I did not wish to end my creative output there, I began experimenting with photography whilst pursuing a researchbased degree. By the time I was studying my Masters, photography turned from curious experiment to passion. Within the first two years of my photography journey, I joined the university’s fashion society as their event and fashion photographer, and began collaborating with other photographers and models in London. I was also blessed to have many friends who were willing to be my guinea pigs! It was really in 2014 where things began to kick off. I met a very talented makeup artist, who shared the same vision and concepts as I did, and together we began our journey.

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That was when my passion for creating strong narratives through fashion photography was ignited. Since then, I never doubted and I never looked back. You may call me a part-time or hobbyist fashion photographer because I am both. What is it like being a female in what is known as a pretty dominated male industry? I am seeing more female photographers becoming more prominent in the photography industry. In fact, I cannot wait to see what they bring to the table as we need a more positive and better representation of females. I certainly take pride in being a female photographer in this male dominated industry. Some of my female models do tell me how they feel very “safe” with me, mostly because I was a female photographer and I tend to work in an all-female team. It is a compliment towards myself but certainly not towards the industry itself, which has seen some high profile sexual harassment cases recently in the wake of #MeToo. It becomes very disheartening when the profession itself gets affiliated with it as well.

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Jungle on the Roo op (Alpha Fashion Magazine) Stylist: Zulvanny Andiny @thezulvanny_stylist HMUAs: Ings Beauty Ar stry (@ingstabeauty) & Pearl Tan (@impearltji) Model: Juliana Aldrin from @tangerinemodels

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I believe I have been placed in situations where I have been treated with less credibility when I admit to being a photographer and occasional model (@fyi.khoo). Still, there are good people out there who are set on creating works of art. I have encountered many, very professional and respectful photographers who share a similar passion for creativity. Which photographers influenced you, and how did they influence your thinking, photographing, and career path? When it comes to my favourite photographers, it has to be Chen Man and Zhang Jingna. And coincidentally, both are extremely talented Chinese female photographers. Being Malaysian-Chinese, I especially look up to Chen Man who brings in and elevates Chinese art, history and culture into her high fashion works. I remembered coming across her work on I-D magazine’s Whatever The Weather issue where she took a series of amazing portraits that showcased the various ethnic beauties in contemporary China. The series left such a huge impression on me that I still look at it and say, “This is why I started photography”. 11

Inspired by their works, I hope to incorporate a dreamy, surreal-like quality into a modern but compelling narrative, playing to my strengths that use rich colours and natural lighting, combined art and fashion photography. In the last few months, I had the chance to experiment and incorporate more Malaysian elements into my shoots. ‘Ipoh Old Town Revisited’ (on Philocaly Magazine) and my recent collaboration with Pursuit of Portraits (@pursuitofportraits) allowed me to showcase more of my home country, its rich history, its architecture and its local talents. I hope to continue infusing Malaysian elements into my work now that I am back for a while. What it is you want to say with your photographs, and how do you actually get your photographs to do that? What do you want your viewers to take away from your work? From the start of my photographic journey until now and whenever I shot women, I only ever wanted to show how kick-ass women can be. At first, it was subconsciously done until some of my models pointed out a “strong woman” trend in my works. However, just last year, one of them finally gave it a name which stuck ever since: alpha women.

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Cleo, Jo & Bou (Elegant Magazine) HMUAs: Mimie ZR (@twmakeovers) & Yee Leng Model: Anna Uvarova from @tangerinemodels

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Growing up watching Disney, I only really empathised with one female lead character, Mulan, but her being Chinese was not the reason. She is the epitome of what I think a strong woman should be. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why I love revisiting these concepts: alienoid girls, tribal warriors, athletic women, desert nomads, women in suits, and strong women in history. The latter manifested into a fashion editorial on Elegant Magazine titled “Cleo, Jo & Bou” – a series reinterpreting Cleopatra, Joan of Arc and Boudicca in a futuristic setting of concrete dunes. I also like the idea of subverting traditionally male concepts to women, which is what I am inclined to and hope to do more of in the future. Although I do not know if my works have been totally successful in saying what I want to say, I know I ought to keep trying and refining my definition of a strong woman. However, I do have the intention to celebrate the strength, intellect and beauty of women of any colour. You’ve worked across the world, but namely in the UK and Malaysia. These are very different markets, with very different vibes. I’m sure your approach to both have to be different. 13

What do you find are the differences between the two and what do you find is the common thread between them? I find that the UK has a larger community of creatives, models and agencies to choose from, on top of the many fashion events happening in London throughout the year. I find that there is also a bigger demand and network for fashion photographers. It is easier to find people to collaborate with, especially when you have an interesting portfolio. In fact, I feel so fortunate to be able to collaborate with so many creatives and models from diverse backgrounds whilst in London. Despite saying all this, it also means the industry is more competitive and standing out is much harder unless you have a unique style. In contrast to this, the Malaysian photography community is much smaller, with portrait and lifestyle photography being more common. Fashion photographers are few compared to the UK but you can also say, that the community is more intimate. I find that it is much harder to organize fashion editorials here, especially when they are outdoor shoots. It is not just the extremely hot weather but on a practical level, I constantly get deterred by the

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Pursuit of Ba k (collab with @pursuitofportraits) Stylist: Zulvanny Andiny @thezulvanny_stylist) Models Sha Adriana (@shaadrianaa) & Rubini Sambathan (@rubinirubi)

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lack of funding and the highly-organized nature of fashion photography itself. From gathering the right team, styling, clothing pieces to permission to shoot in a specific place, everything takes time, meticulous planning and money. It was much easier to find people to collaborate with in the UK due to the well-connected networks. In Malaysia, I find it much harder to get connected to potential collaborators unless you are active on social media. Whilst I hardly used Instagram in London, I find that it is becoming an increasingly important marketing and networking tool to find my models, designers and potentially sponsorship for my future shoots in Malaysia. It has been exactly a year since I have seriously ventured into the world of social media and it has not been easy to gain followers with just a good portfolio in such a saturated market. Whilst we are on the topic of Asia and its creative vibe, it’s hard to deny that Caucasian or light skinned models are preferred. Working in Malaysia a lot, do you see that lack of representation of our own Asian models and the lack of our ethnicity in creative ads?

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I find that the lack of representation of our own Asian models is always an issue in postcolonial nations, as there are so many historical and cultural factors that come into the equation. Caucasians and Pan-Asian models are definitely still the go-to for brands and fashion labels in Malaysia but I do hope more opportunities could be given to local models as well, namely from the Malay, Chinese and Indian communities in the future. The current standards of beauty here are based on a mix of Western and sometimes, Korean influences – being light-skinned, having sharp features, double eyelids, long hair, and being thin are still preferred. Like Chen Man’s series on the various ethnic women in China, I hope to see more fashion narratives that encourage and celebrate women whose beauty are not within the current standards: monolids, dark skinned, hijabi, curvy, petite and more. Personally, this is what I hope to pursue as well. As for me, I do my best to choose my talents based on the concepts behind my work, hopefully adding weight to the fashion narrative. I have an upcoming editorial published in a UK magazine this Spring, which I am excited to share. In the spirit of celebrating diversity and in an all-Malaysian team, this is a personal project that pays homage to my home country of Malaysia in a way that is unconventional but modern.

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Michelle Model: Michelle Ng (@liebemish)

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Do you also find a certain lack of representation in the UK? The UK is really doing its best to embrace of diversity. In fact, London is at the very heart of this. I have seen much more support and encouragement towards using models of any colour, size, and sexual orientation in their fashion events, advertisements, magazines, etc. As long as there are people who are united as one strong voice to pursue critical issues, there will be progress. Though there is still much work to do, I find that the progress in the UK is generally positive. In a world where “sex-sells”, what do find are the creative challenges to portray women as strong, alpha women rather than sex symbols?

Again, we need to be aware and be cautious about how we interpret strong women. To me, strong women are multidimensional; they may be beautiful and compassionate, but also intelligent, independent and tough. There is definitely less of a chance to explore all these traits in one still photo but I do hope to be able to convey this throughout my portfolio in the long run. What is one question nobody has ever asked you that you wish they asked you? Actually, I was asked, “Why do you shoot so many Asian girls?” very early on in my photographic journey, but I would like to hear it again! And this time, I would have a longer story to tell.

To a large extent, the idea that “sex-sells” exist no matter the industry or country. You will always find over-sexualization and objectification of the young female and even the young male body anywhere, but most prevalent in the arts industry. And of course, it’s obvious why photos with this “strong woman” theme tend not to generate as much interest. The idea of strong, alpha women can also be a grey area sometimes as these women can be over-sexualized too, depending on the styling, composition and narrative. 17

Tap the icons below to follow Emma Khoo from FYi Photography:

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Fashion

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F

eminine, classy, elegant, yet strong...Modessa encapsulates the essence of today’s modern woman.

It’s 2018 and society is finally coming around to the power of the female. Far too long, society has looked at the fairer gender through a binary lens resulting in the male superiority. With feminist movements forging the way, the power of the female finally sees the light. Today’s women are ultimate multitaskers; gracefully juggling the responsibilities of the multiple roles of 19

mother, wife, daughter, business owner, etc, whilst carving her own identity with elegance, femininity and class. Modessa, a British Modest Fashion label, beautifully illustrates this in their designs. Timeless, classic and inclusive, Modessa truly speaks the language of the modern woman. We speak to Abigayle Andre, the owner and creative mind behind Modessa, on her life, her inspiration, her brand and the future.

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Hi Abigayle, thank you for taking the time to speak with us. We’re so excited to see the Modessa collection. So, we hear the Modessa is a British brand and manufactured in the UK. Tell us more, how did Modessa begin? Hi Juliana, thank you for giving us this amazing platform to tell our story! Modessa began after my reversion to Islam. I found it difficult to find clothes that suited my style but were modest. Although I was a Muslim, I was still me...and I wanted to show it! I began to research and speak to other women. That led me to the realisation that other women felt like me and that both Muslim and non-Muslim women wanted modest clothing...all year round! I saw a gap...and I sought to fill it! By a quick glance on your Instagram we noticed lots of silk, pastel colours and classic cuts. In one of the videos, the silk pants blowing in the wind, Masya’Allah. Can you tell us more about what the Modessa Collection or brand is all about? What does it represent?

to gain respect, admiration or anything else for that matter. Our brand is not just about clothing...it is about people, raising awareness and challenging perceptions. Whilst we are a Muslim brand in our values but we are a brand that is inclusive. You do not look at our clothing and think...ah! Muslim clothing! You look and you see MODEST clothing. Modesty is for everyone...whatever you believe in! As a British Revert I am often faced with people questioning whether or not I am a Muslim. I do not wear hijab, but I dress modestly. I think it is important to raise awareness about this. What does a Muslim woman actually look like? We come in all shapes, sizes and colours. Some of us wear turbans, some wear a more traditional scarf style or niqab...some of us do not wear a head covering at all. And that is ok...our journey is between us and God. Modessa is about showing that to the world and to the Muslim community. We want to unite the two.

Modessa is the essence of Modest Fashion. Modest Fashion is not limited to those with or without faiths. Modest Fashion is for the modern woman, who does not need to reveal herself in order 20

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LEFT JADA BLOUSE & DEGHA TROUSER RIGHT EEDA DRESS

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I WOULDN’T BE DOING MY JOB AS A FASHION EDITOR IF I DIDN’T ASK THIS STANDARD, FASHION QUESTION – WHERE DOES YOUR INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGNS COME FROM? BEING HALF CARIBBEAN AND HALF ENGLISH (WHAT A BEAUTIFUL MIX BTW), DOES THAT INSPIRATION COME FROM YOUR DIVERSE CULTURE

Generally speaking my inspiration comes from everywhere! I grew up with a very artistic and fashion forward family. My dad is a very easy going Caribbean man who is an interior designer/painter/salesman with impeccable style. My mum a very stylish, business savvy woman who sold Italian designer clothes from our home when I was a kid. I definitely think my diverse culture is an influence indirectly on all that I do and in the way that I am. The inspiration behind this particular collection is a fusion of the 1970s fashions and English ladylike chic. I was very inspired by YSL in the 1970s, Paul Poiret and Givenchy. In the 70s turbans were all the rage, big sunglasses and flares. I am also inspired by the ladylike silhouettes of the 40s. The collection features cinched waists, feminine colours and fabrics with a beautiful texture and drape. I wanted to combine these elements to make something fashion forward which gave a nod to all the gracious ladies of those eras. I feel it does. Whomever has put our garments on has said they felt like a princess or a queen. That’s what I wanted!

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Everyone has their distinct journey to Islam. As a revert to Islam yourself, could you tell us your journey? And were there struggles being a revert in the UK? First of all I’d like to say, Alhamdulilah. Glory be to God for blessing me with Islam. My journey began when I met my husband, he is born muslim and piqued my interest about the religion. I began looking into the religion off my own back.

Often people confuse the two and genuinely think what they are telling you is Islam, when it isn’t. It is culture. For example marriage is difficult for a lot of reverts because families don’t want you to marry their son (for example) because you are from a different culture, caste etc instead of because of your character and conduct. It happens even with people who are born Muslim and it is very sad. I also have friends who are reverts and have struggled with their families accepting they have reverted.

OUR BRAND IS NOT JUST ABOUT CLOTHING...IT IS ABOUT PEOPLE, RAISING AWARENESS AND CHALLENGING PERCEPTIONS. WHILST WE ARE A MUSLIM BRAND IN OUR VALUES BUT WE ARE A BRAND THAT IS INCLUSIVE.

I spent hours researching, reading books, articles and listening to talks (Mufti Menk and Yasmin Mogahed are two personal favourites). I just knew it was the truth, it made sense to me and answered all the philosophical questions I’d carried with me for a long time. Such as...why are we here? Why do bad things happen to good people and so on. Contrary to popular belief most reverts actually do it for themselves...not always for marriage! I find as a revert in the UK our struggle is mainly with culture and Islam. 23

Some sisters have been disowned, thrown out of the house etc. It is tough. And people don’t want to talk about it... but I do. I think the truth needs to be heard and these negative views of Islam challenged. From your journey into Islam, we find it so inspiring when you said that Modessa is a Muslim company in terms of its values – that the beautiful values of the religion is weaved into the business. Such a beautiful brand story. Can you tell us more about that and how the brand stays true to this?

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THE JESSI JUMPSUIT

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Yes we are a Muslim company in terms of our ethos. Our values are people over profit. Obviously we need profit to make a business sustainable however we will not extort or exploit people in order to achieve it. We pay our staff/contractors fairly and according to the law. We also pay people in a timely fashion. I started Modessa because I saw a need and wanted to fill it...I also want to bring joy to people’s wardrobes...it sounds so cliché but it’s not all about the money for me. What I also find inspiring is that Modessa is an inclusive brand. And it’s evident in the pieces you design. Anyone can wear these pieces and feel beautiful, not just Muslims or hijabis. When you set out to create Modessa, bearing in mind you were creating a modest fashion brand, was inclusivity key to your design process? Our clothing doesn’t say you’re Muslim. The heart says that. You can’t look at these garments and see a religion or culture. That’s down to the woman who is wearing them. We wanted to make our range accessible to all women who had a desire to cover but look chic! As beautiful as abayas/ shalwar kameez/jilbabs are...it is not always practical or to everyone’s style. Modest garments are also hard to come by during the Summer season on the British high street. 25

When designing I always keep in mind practicality, modesty and material. We design and cut our clothes with the female figure in mind, it flatters but it covers. The material is carefully chosen with regards to opacity and practicality. Does it show undergarments? Can it be hand/machine washed? (Who actually has time to dry clean their whole wardrobe?) Inclusivity is so important these days in my opinion, especially in the fashion industry. What are your thoughts on this and how do you think we can try to be more inclusive? I do agree. From a fashion perspective I think from the models you use to the work force you create, you need diversity. And in order to see the advantages of diversity there must be inclusivity. I feel diversity brings a real strength to a team and different perceptions to the table. I think regardless of creed, colour, faith or ability we need to include everyone. I think we can try to be more inclusive by being open to anything and everything and always keeping an open mind. Not placing limitations on people just because society tells you that those limitations are there (and they are often not!)

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Before we go, is there anything more we should know about you or Modessa or perhaps what we will see from Modessa in the future? Coming up in May we will have a Limited Edition collection for Eid. We are really excited to release these limited exclusive pieces. So keep your eyes peeled! Before I go I would like to just give a word of encouragement to those who may be pursuing their own career in fashion or business generally... You can do it. You will do it. It will be hard but what is meant for you will never surpass you. Remember your creator. He will never desert you. He is the one who makes all things possible and without him we would be nothing. Good luck with whatever journey you are on sisters and get in touch with me if you have any questions at abigayle@ModessaOnline.co.uk

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Fashion

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ebruary 10th 2018, a date to remember as modest fashion brand B.Zarina took the runway at New York Fashion Week presenting their first collection of luxury modest wear, which features hijabs, evening gowns, jumpsuits and their signature cardigans. Their “Embellished Modesty� collection is made with soft, flowing, and intricately embroidered materials with styles inspired by the traditional clothing worn by Afghan women but with a modern twist. 29

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“We are ethnic Puhktoon and our brand B. Zarina is named after our Pukhtana grandmother. So, it was only natural for us to tap into our Afghan ancestry when coming up with our luxury collection. We were inspired by the colors and embellishments you see in Afghan clothing for our collection. We wanted to incorporate some of those elements into our designs.” The black cloths of these fashionable pieces are enhanced with metallic touches, lace, long silhouettes, rich colors, and handembroidered designs, making them the perfect choices for today’s modest queens. This collection also features stunning head coverings that are the perfect addition to any luxury modest fashion wardrobe. Sisters Shazia and Kulsoom have been working in the modest fashion industry for 15 years. Their goal is to create a number of fashionable options for women who prefer a modest style while keeping their pieces affordable.

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“We wanted to present a collection of beautifully made modest clothes that appeal to women of all backgrounds and mesmerize everyone who sees them,” said Kulsoom. “It’s important to us that we always use the finest materials and enhance them with beaded embellishments to create our garments. Using our combined 30 years of experience in designing and garmentmaking, we were able to source beautiful fabrics that allowed us to present a luxurious look. Most importantly, we’ve been able to create the modest fashion line we’ve always wanted while keeping our prices modest, too.” 31

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When asked what it was like presenting a modest fashion brand at New York Fashion Week and how modest fashion was received, Kulsoom added, “Presenting at NYFW is a really exciting experience. The best part of it is the show itself and watching everyone’s reaction to the clothes. We received a lot of positive feedback from people who both dress modestly and those who don't. The fashion industry has been pretty open to modesty and accepting of it. We didn't have any negative experience with showing our line at NYFW. Instead, we received more attention than some of the other nonmodest brands.”

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Although primarily thought of as ‘Muslimah fashion’ or mainly for muslimahs, modest fashion actually transcends backgrounds and religions. From your showcase at NYFW, do you think modest fashion will be seen in that way perhaps in the near future? Or is it already beginning to break that barrier? “I think modest fashion has already started to break religious barriers. In the past few years, you have seen women of different ethnic and religious backgrounds embracing similar modest fashion trends. Social Media and online modest fashion marketplaces have helped influence this convergence of modest fashion as well. I think you are going to see more people referring to it as just Modest Fashion rather than Muslimah fashion in the future,” added Kulsoom.

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Fashion

Oriental Fashion Show & Modestissime

make history by hosting France’s first

MODEST FASHION PARADE Photos by David TERGEMINA / TRG prod

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T

he fashion capital of the world marked a major milestone by staging its first-ever Modest fashion event. Oriental Fashion Show, a unique organisation dedicated to showcasing established and emerging high-end fashion designers from the East, worked hand-in-hand with France’s new Modest fashion platform Modestissime to present the collections of four up-and-coming designers in Paris on Thursday 25 January.

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The fashion shows took place at the luxurious and historic HĂ´tel de Crillon, in the heart of the city, and featured the capsule collections of Vertuoses (France), Vanderwilde (Spain), Blanche (Morocco), and Sahil Kochhar (India).

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Their catwalks comprised of contemporary couture and prĂŞt-Ă -porter daywear: dresses, trousers, blouses, jackets and kaftans with sleek contours that came in a rich hue of colours, materials and patterns that while firmly European, also made a clear nod to the East.

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Unlike previous Modest fashion events in Istanbul, London and Dubai, this parade in Paris did not conform to any specific religious dress requirements. The innovative vision of Modestissime co-founders Amal Sultan and Samia Benaissa aims to move ‘modesty’ beyond religion and instead firmly position it as a lifestyle that appeals to the broadest range of women.

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As a result, models for the brand’s debut catwalk shows did not wear hijabs (headwear worn by Muslim women), and some of the selected outfits revealed necklines, calves and forearms.

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The Modest fashion parade formed part of the 23rd edition of Oriental Fashion Show, a two-day event in which twenty-two international designers from over a dozen countries, including Algeria, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Indonesia, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, and Turkey, took part.

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Fashion

RE-LAUNCHES THEIR FIRST EVER PRIDE HEADSCARF WITH A VERY SPECIAL (AND COLOURFUL) MARDI GRAS THEMED CAMPAIGN.

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w

hen we first learnt about MOGA – a fashion brand and online retailer of women’s headscarves and shawls from Melbourne, Australia – what struck us was their bold and unique designs. But what struck us more was the brand’s underlining mission and message to the world – to empower women in their right to receive an education. As such 20% of their profits are used to help young girls attend secondary schools in some of the world’s more vulnerable regions where they are sadly not given an equal opportunity to learn. 42

“In terms of the brand’s perspective, this really made sense to us because our product is all about helping women look and feel good about themselves. With our CSR policy, our fans not only get to feel good but also help other women who aren’t as fortunate as themselves have a chance at a better life,” said Azahn Munas, founder of MOGA, from our interview in February 2017. (Tap here to read the interview from our February 2017 issue.) A fashion label that strives to be an inclusive brand that accepts women regardless of race, religion and culture,

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MOGA made the news last year for reaching out to prominent, Islamophobic senator, Pauline Hanson, who is known for her controversial political views. “We have always considered ourselves to be an activist brand that publicly fights for issues that are important to us,” said Azahn Munas. Always one to push the conversation to unchartered territories, MOGA released its first ever PRIDE headscarf and shawl last year, to support the marriage equality movement in Australia and the LGTBQ+ community and their undying commitment towards love, acceptance and inclusivity. 43

“The idea (of the PRIDE scarf) came about when we wanted to publicly show our support for marriage equality in Australia. The plebiscite and postal vote on whether same sex couples should have the right to marry has brought out some rather unpleasant and nasty rhetoric recently. We wanted to counter the negativity and hatred with a message of love and unification, which has always been at forefront of our brand,” said Azahn Munas. As a Muslim owned fashion label with a large Islamic following, MOGA was unsure if the scarf would receive a negative reaction, given many

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religions are still largely intolerant towards LGBTQ+ causes such as marriage equality. “We were of course a little concerned with a potential backlash against our brand by conservatives who do not agree with our values of love and acceptance. It is never our intention to hurt or offend anyone, but sometimes there is a bigger picture at play. Our brand prides itself on being inclusive of ALL individuals, regardless of their race, religious beliefs or sexual orientation / identity. If some people don't agree with that, there is not much we can do about it besides sticking to our own values and promote a safe environment of tolerance and acceptance for our fans,” added Azahn. However, they were thrilled with the almost unanimously positive response received from their fans and the fact that the PRIDE scarf sold out in just 6 days! They did, however, manage to save their very last scarf to send to former Prime Minister, Tony Abbott, who was sadly one of the most vocal supporters of the No campaign. “Thankfully, the response has been overwhelmingly positive! To date, we have not received a single negative private message on our official social media accounts or through our customer enquiries e-mail. Instead, we have had 45

messages from all over the world from our fans who reside in Muslim countries and non-Muslim countries who have thanked us for acknowledging their identity and making such a pro-inclusive statement. We are so thrilled with the response so far and hope it continues to be a positive one,” Azahn continues. Gay marriage is now legal in Australia and MOGA’s PRIDE scarf has relaunched, and just in time for one of the largest parades in the world, the 40th annual Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras! And with music icon Cher set to headline the after party, this year’s festivities are bound to be the biggest (and most colourful) yet! “We want to acknowledge that LGBTIQ individuals exist in every city, country, society, race and religion. Sadly, many still live in fear of persecution for simply being themselves. We want to give these individuals an identity and recognition and let them know that they are not alone, nor are they bad people. Ultimately, we want to foster a community of openness and tolerance where people aren't afraid to be themselves and can truly embrace their identity,” explains Azahn when asked his ultimate goal with the PRIDE scarf.

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To celebrate this momentous occasion with the LTGBTQ+ community, MOGA has created a very special Mardi Gras themed campaign, which would be the first time a Muslim owned fashion label has done so. MOGA has even recruited their first ever male ambassadors to help spread the love and demonstrate the multi-purpose use of the PRIDE scarf! Featuring veteran drag performer Mable Syrup, bisexual model & activist Kalida Edwards and all-round hunk Chris McCubbin, their latest photo series sums up the fun, festive and colourful spirit of Mardi Gras. MOGA’s campaign aims to highlight the diversity of crowds who attend the Sydney Mardi Gras each year, which include members of the LGBTQ+ community and their many supporters and allies. They also wanted to celebrate the diverse nature of their fans, who range from trendy Muslim ‘hijabsters’ to festival goers to drag queens, who all love the bold and colourful designs.

Tap the icons below to follow MOGA online and watch BTS of the photoshoot:

With over 500,000 people expected to attend Mardi Gras this year, the PRIDE scarf will ensure that you stand out WITH the crowd and embrace the rainbow spirit. “And if anyone tries to rain on your parade, always remember that people, regardless of their race, gender or sexuality are equal and are always welcome to love,” Azahn Munas.

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Fashion

NIKE PRO

HIJAB

HITS SOUTHEAST ASIA 48

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ZEINA NASSAR IN THE NIKE PRO HIJAB - AVAILABLE ON ZALORA

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ALORA, Asia’s Online Fashion Destination, is proud to launch the Nike Pro Hijab, an athletic headwear designed for Muslim female athletes and sports enthusiasts. It addresses performance problems associated with wearing a traditional hijab for competitive sports, while creating an inclusive space for Muslim athletes and supporting girls worldwide to follow their passion by providing them with access to sports. 49

The Nike Pro Hijab is constructed from the Nike Pro power mesh, Nike’s most breathable fabric, and provides full coverage while allowing for maximum airflow and breathability in the garment via strategically placed holes. Its single layer, lightweight polyester fabrication makes it a much lighter alternative to the traditional designs, while “fluff threads” at the neck minimise irritation.

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ZAHRA LARI IN THE NIKE PRO HIJAB AVAILABLE ON ZALORA

The Nike Pro Hijab is also ultra-durable and retains its qualities even after rounds of extensive wash testing (+40 washes). Lastly, the Nike Pro Hijab is available in sizes XS/S and M/L to allow perfect fit on a range of head sizes and face shapes. “A lot of women who wear a hijab are unable to compete in sport or feel limited by its impact on how they perform,” says Baron Brandt, a Senior Designer with NXT who worked on the 50

hijab with Daniela Grogro, Apparel Innovation Technical Design Director. “So, we wanted to create a modern take on a traditional piece.” In the pursuit to drive performance through delivering innovative products to athletes, Nike conducted extensive research and enlisted the help of a variety of athletes from a range of sports.

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IBTIHAJ MUHAMMAD IN THE NIKE PRO HIJAB - AVAILABLE ON ZALORA

This included weightlifter Amna Al Haddad and figure skater Zahra Lari, both from the United Arab Emirates who got to put the performance garment prototype to the test.

The Nike Pro Hijab, available in black, can be found on ZALORA from 15 February (Singapore, Malaysia) and 22 February (Indonesia) onwards and retails for S$34.90.

Performance feedback and reactions to the garment’s appearance were assessed by everyday athletes around the Middle East to ensure the best offerings in the Nike Pro Hijab range.

Shop the Nike Pro Hijab at zalora.sg, on desktop, mobile site and mobile app.

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Fashion

The ‘Hijabican’ Woman Written by Nicole Najmah Abraham Photos by Najm Designs Photos

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SAMANTA B. IN HANIYA FLORAL LONG SLEEVE MAXI DRESS - RED

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Please introduce yourself. My name is Kawthar Suleiman and alongside my husband, Talib, we launched Hijabican in 2014. Hijabican is an online fashion retailer catered to American Muslim women looking for modest clothing and hijabs at affordable prices. What is the concept behind the Hijabican brand? We were tired of seeing so called Islamic fashion that was imported from lands far away that didn't reflect the style and culture unique to American Muslim women. What inspired the name of your clothing label "Hijabican"? Hijabican is defined as; One, an American Muslim woman who wears the hijab who chooses to embrace her culture without compromising her faith. Hijab + American = Hijabican. And two, someone who believes that the hijab doesn't oppress a woman, but in fact liberates a woman and gives her the freedom to achieve her dreams whether it's becoming an astronaut to being a fulltime home maker. The hijab doesn't define her, nor limit her in her aspirations to serve God and her community. Because a hijabi...can. 54

Do you have a fashion background? What inspired you to become a designer/ fashion retailer and how did your education/experiences lead you to the role you have today? When I was in 5th grade I was already wearing the hijab full time. I remember going shopping one day and thinking “how great would it be to be able to shop somewhere, and pick anything I like and have it be hijab friendly as well!” I told myself that one day, I would open a store that did just that. I studied business in college and always knew having an online business would allow me to reach more Muslim women than focusing on the local population. After graduating, I knew I needed to learn about ecommerce so I focused my professional career on getting an ecommerce experience in order to launch Hijabican. After many years of fretting, self-doubt, learning, and patiently waiting, I finally went for it! I watched YouTube videos for a little motivation – a video told me “the best way to start a business is by being in business!” i.e. just start and take it one day at a time and we did just that.

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WAFEEQA A. IN FLORAL WRAP LONG SLEEVE MAXI DRESS BURGUNDY

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How has the line developed since it was first launched?

Who shops Hijabican/ Who is the "Hijabican Woman"?

We started as a multi brand retailer but have developed our own label of products. We hope to continue to expand our selection of Hijabican apparel and would be open to some creative partnerships.

Hijabicans are open minded Muslim women who want to be comfortable, fashionable, and not overspend!

What have been your most popular designs or apparels?

We want to make modesty mainstream while not compromising on our faith. We will never have Muslim women featured without hijab because it's important to use to stay authentic and dedicated to the Muslim women who wear hijab. However, we want our fashions to speak to a larger audience

Our most popular hijabs are our jersey scarves! And our most popular dresses are our A-line dresses - they feature soft jersey fabric that is more comfortable and breathable than your standard abaya. 56

What's in store for Hijabican in the future?

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that appreciates style that leaves more to the imagination! So, we would love to partner with big luxury brands and even mainstream fashion designers like Gucci or Versace for example and empower Muslim women who are designers as well. The sky's the limit! How can your designs be purchased? domestic/international? Visit hijabican.com for more information. We predominantly ship within USA and Canada, however we are looking forward to international expansion in the future!

Tap the icons below to follow Hijabican online:

THE WRITER: NICOLE NAJMAH ABRAHAM Nicole Najmah Abraham (aka Najmah53) is a Spoken Word Artist, Writer, Mentor, Graphic Designer and Photographer. She has over 10 years of experience designing in the fashion industry working with notable brands like Rocawear and Gap Inc. Her digital media business, Najm Designs, includes Graphics, Marketing and Photography. Najmah is the also the Visual Marketing behind the International film production company, Halalywood, founded by Omar Regan.

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Fashion

mother PRIDE Written by Nafisa Bora Photos by Maryam Huq

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A

n expecting mum. Me?! Is this for real?! Like, really, really real? I mean, despite already being 28 weeks pregnant, I sit here typing this in disbelief. It’s the same way I’ve felt from the beginning, constantly looking down at my not-so-small bump and thinking, you’re mine, you’re really in there…I’m going to be a mother. SubhanAllah. I’ve been blessed by the Almighty to experience this beautiful journey of motherhood, feeling my little one kick, punch, somersault inside of me, making waves, proving that he or she is in there - Alhumdulilah.

These women in my life are truly inspirational. The selfless act of motherhood I have witnessed over the years and even more-so, a real appreciation of the fact. To want the best for your children whilst they grow in their early years, helping them grow into beautiful individuals - that is what my priority is right now. Truth be told, since my first nephew was born almost 10 years ago, this shift in mindset has always been there and caring for all three boys, has been the most beautiful (and sometimes challenging!) experience but it has ultimately somewhat prepared me for what is to come.

I’m ecstatic with a little sprinkle of nervous and a huge helping of grateful. The feelings are heightened because I now have a sense of inner pride, protectiveness and pure love for something I haven’t seen, just felt. I am going to be a mother InshaAllah.

I understand that there will be days that I hold so much love that I won’t understand how I contain it and other days where I will just want to pull my hair out...and that it’s okay to feel that way. Parents learn as they go.

Having watched my own mother and father raise the four of us and throughout the last decade witnessed, my elder sister with my three nephews, I knew, that’s what I wanted. Like most women, we eventually yearn it - the idea of creating life inside of your body, almost surreal, unimaginable yet truly possible and by the Will of God, 9 months later, a baby is born, crying and taking in the cold air of the world, alien to the home of the womb it’s known.

So far throughout my journey, I have experienced many of the emotions pregnancy welcomes. From feeling sadness to feeling excitement of a new life soon to be. In the midst of all the emotions, at times we tend to lose ourselves; our appearance, our body, our sleep, and so sometimes even our state of mind – questions of whether I’m ready for this, whether I’ll be a good parent, whether my child will love me – the list is endless.

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What I have found is that to enjoy your pregnancy, it’s key to ensure you are well enough to take care of yourself and of course the growing blessing inside. The baby is totally reliant on you to make good decisions and choices every day in order for them to develop into a healthy offspring and also for you both to obtain a state of contentment and well-being. I have generally always loved ‘clean’ food, though as any other chocoholic, I have a major sweet tooth (I suppose I have my dad to thank for the endless goodies that were brought home!) Despite what some people say, listen to yourself, listen to your own body and feed it what it needs. Just because someone else is eating runny eggs, cold meats and drinking endless amounts of coffee, doesn’t mean you need to be pressured to eat them too! 60

In the same way, other people avoiding specific food doesn’t necessarily mean you need to (save for the definite no no’s!) Personally, I say avoid as many risks as possible! After all, a gift from God isn’t something to be taken for granted! That being said, let’s talk cravings! From spicy to sweet, from healthy to let’s just say, not very healthy cravings (fatty foods aside, I knew someone who craved chewing plimsolls while pregnant – no I’m not joking!), it can’t be helped so embrace it, embrace the new sensations that your body craves (especially if they’re good for you – some women crave fruit and veg!), and finally just embrace the journey, your cravings included. Speaking of changes, like food, your sense of style may change, perhaps not by choice and that’s okay! Just find what works for you. For me, other than nursing bras (no, not maternity bras)

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and leggings, I haven’t needed to go out to buy maternity clothes. Most of my wardrobe has been quite compatible with my bump and luckily, whilst I have been growing, I’ve been wearing dresses and jumpers, leggings and boots and have been super comfortable (and also pretty stylish if I say so myself!). Though I do admit, the first few months I minimised the amount of makeup I wore as I was extremely tired and having to wake up for work every day, 5 days a week, well, it just didn’t seem appealing to me! After that particular period of exhaustion, I started to feel more myself and didn’t let things go It honestly felt great being able to be myself and go about my normal routine. My opinion, try not to let yourself go – not for society or for other people but for yourself. I know, I know, it’s hard sometimes, especially if you’re working full time with fully booked weekends as well as all of your usual responsibilities crammed into the week and all of that while also not having had the best night’s sleep (pregnancy pains and you can’t turn in bed by yourself – be thankful for your husbands!). But looking and feeling presentable, dressing comfortably yet eloquently during pregnancy is so very important! It really boosts your well-being and in turn, you have more of a positive outlook on things in life. Try and be as 61

active as you can, eat well, read, exercise (mild exercises, depending on what you are used to pre-pregnancy) and also talk to your baby! It really promotes a connection - it might start out as being a little weird since you won’t get a reply of course, but you and your baby will bond. You can totally try to include your partners too, if they’re willing! It may also be nice to talk to other pregnant women or women who have already been pregnant (for me it’s usually my family). Luckily for me, my brother and sister in-law have recently had a baby girl and currently two of my closest and oldest friends are also pregnant - one due before me and the other, after me. I find it’s always nice to discuss my pregnancy with them. It’s comforting, and we enjoy exchanging tips and knowing that this beautiful experience is almost shared and that our babies will (hopefully) be friends so that we can take our babies out for a stroll together, so you all still feel sociable get dressed up, feel pretty, proud, content and of course stylish! On this note, I picked out a few of my go-to dresses to show you that you can grow gracefully and beautifully even though your body is not what it looked like before. You are still beautiful. Motherhood is a natural and pure thing, welcome it and look forward to the wonderful life to come.

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To begin with, this snake print, long sleeved dress - paired with a sleeveless turtle-neck with some thick cosy leggings, a cashmere autumn/winter tassel scarf, black leather rider boots, and lastly a statement necklace and pretty headscarf my elder sister gave to me as part of my Eid present last year. I love this outfit - pretty daring with a bold lipstick in Shame (Urban Decay), I almost feel like a biker chick mama, minus my leather jacket hung up nicely in my wardrobe. 62

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The second dress is a maternity mama polka dot dress that my younger sister gave to me after I announced the news paired with a navy-blue jersey headscarf, a black full-sleeved turtle neck, a bag my sister gave to me for a previous birthday, thick cosy leggings and some above the ankle midheeled suede boots - you’ll feel beautiful and lady-like. I also changed my lipstick to the ‘Be Legendary Lipstick’ in the shade ‘Get Fired’ by Smashbox! This is pretty to wear in the office too and I love the fact the it has a belt to make my beautiful bump more pronounced. And who doesn’t love pockets! This dress is amazing - very flattering and makes you feel like it could be summer every day. Ah, those sunny days (I’ll be in the shade!) - I can’t wait!

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Lastly, my trusty red elasticated waist dress, which I also have in black with a wide checked silk headscarf that my husband bought back for me from Vienna after a business trip. Again, I have here, my thick cosy leggings (Primark, £5) - they are super comfortable - I’ve bought a few black ones since black is so versatile and literally goes with anything! This is probably the most relaxed dress I will be found in. I can breathe in this, no restrictions, easy movements and makes me feel royal and proud of my bump.

THE WRITER: NAFISA BORA Nafisa is a finance professional, hate crime advocate with her local police and council, freelance model, foodie, and soon-to-be mother!

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Beauty

Prevent & Heal breakouts from STRESS

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ost of us are familiar with teenage acne. Oh gosh...those were the days, weren’t they?

But if you’re out of your teens, which we’re sure most of you reading are, and you’re suddenly suffering from breakouts, you must be wondering what’s going on. We have one word for you - STRESS! Research shows that stress and breakouts are linked. When you’re under pressure, (and let’s face it, in today’s crazy climate, that’s pretty common) the body responds by directing blood flow and oxygen to areas vital for fighting stress. 66

This, in turn, causes the body to withdraw them from other areas including the skin. Without blood and oxygen, the skin becomes dehydrated and prone to clogged pores which, yes you guessed it, results in the pesky breakout. But before you stress out, because that’s going to be counterproductive, breath, destress and read on to the 5 simple steps for a clear, stress-free complexion.

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FIX IT ON THE SPOT Pun intended...the sooner you treat a pimple, the faster it will disappear. Use a fast-acting spot treatment the moment you feel a bump coming on. Use products that with salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide or topical probiotics to quickly reduce redness, inflammation and kill bacteria.

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exfoliate Our skin constantly shed dead cells but rather than falling off, many of these dead cells stick to the skin. This clogs the pores and hair follicles. That’s why you may notice most of the pimples appear where most of the tiny hair follicles usually are. The dead cell debris coupled with the stress hormone (cortisol) causes the skin to produce excess oils - which leads to blackheads and blemishes. Frequent wash (twice a day at best) is necessary to remove oil and surface dirt but that doesn’t totally remove dead cell debris and dirt clogged in pores. So once a week (or even twice a week), remember to exfoliate to remove dead skin cells and decongest your pores which minimizes breakouts and helps the skin’s renewal process. 68

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Don’t dry out Many people think that preventing oily skin will clear breakouts, so they end up avoiding moisturisers and using oilfree products. But the catch here is, drying out the skin further will stimulate the oil glands to produce more oil to compensate the lack of it. Your best chance against breakouts is to maintain a balanced moisture level. So, use hydrating serum rich in nourishing Omega 3, 6 and 9 before applying your moisturiser.

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Good bacteria As we said in the beginning, breakouts are caused by stress and stress causes toxins to be released into the bloodstream. So release these toxins from the body by drinking loads of water (duh!) and adding healthy bacteria into the system. You can do so by adding in yogurt drinks that are high in probiotics. Whilst we’re on the topic of good food intake, it is also recommended to eat clean, meaning no fast food, no fatty food, no spicy food - eat clean. Basically, maintain a healthy gut.

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destress We can’t end without stating the obvious. Stress causes these pesky breakouts, so one important way is to destress. Try to take a day out of the week just for yourself - take a walk, a hike, or do yoga, whatever that can put you in a calmer mood. Destress...destress...destress.

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Opinion

LIVING ‘MUSLIM’ IN 2018 SHOULD NOT BE AS HARD AS IT IS...

Written by Zainab Onuh-Yahaya

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The year is 2018 and I am standing in a grocery store, waiting my turn at checkout when a young woman walked up to me. “Don't you feel hot in that?” She asked quietly, pointing at my abaya and the scarf draped over my shoulders. I shook my head slightly, smiling - it is 2018. I shouldn't be used to being asked about my choice(s) of clothing. But I am. So, I went back to standing in line, trying not to flinch at the stares.

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The year is 2018 and my mother is sitting in on my little sister's parent-teacher conference when the issue of the absence of a security guard was raised to which the principal, a woman in her early sixties, replied, “Yes. We're working on that. The only person who has applied for the job so far is a Muslim and I personally think Muslims are not good enough to place the security of our kids upon.” Mother's face had burned from both anger and embarrassment; anger that nobody thought it ugly, that nobody said anything to rebut the statement.

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Embarrassment that she had to hear such spiteful words from someone she'd dined with, laughed with. Embarrassment she'd been 'cool' with an Islamophobe.

The year is 2018 and Hafsat is still not allowed into the University library because “you can't wear the hijab into the library”.

I was shocked...but not surprised. Shocked because it was now okay for people to be so blatant about their ignorance. That we've transcended from hate speeches being whispered behind a person's back to it being slapped at them from right across a board table.

“Why?” We asked.

The year is 2018 and we are in our college classroom. The professor said to my friend sitting just next to me, “I hope that hijab is not going to hinder the knowledge that's supposed to flow into your brain”. And I watched as he proceeded to try and humiliate her by pointing every question her way in a bid to prove his twisted theory right.

“You just can't,” they said. “Perhaps they're scared we're going to make away with all their books underneath our jilbab”, I whispered rather drily. We laughed. We shouldn't be used to it. But we were.

The year is 2018. And Muslim women still have to defend the fact that their hijab is not a sign of oppression. That it is a personal choice. The year is 2018 and we have to watch our sister's cry on streets as their hijab is being dragged off their heads. It is 2018 and “a woman has the right to do what she pleases with her body” except when it's a Muslim woman and then, it screeches of “Oppression! Oppression! Muslim women are oppressed.” It's 2018 and Muslims representation in mainstream media is barely past 'terrorism'. 74

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The year is 2018. And I watched as a man spat when a brother passed by. “Bloody terrorist”, he muttered. The brother shrugged. He shouldn't be used to it. But he is. The year is 2018. And somehow it has become a compliment to say to a Muslim “you don't seem like a Muslim”. “How so?” The confused Muslim would ask. To which they'd reply, “You are just so…Civilised.” Living in a country terrorized on the daily by self-proclaimed Muslims, it is hard not to build up a defensive stance 75

and construct a mental barricade between you and hate-speeches. And the constant having to justify why 'Not all Muslims are this or that'. Living in a country like mine, you are thrust with the responsibility of being some sort of living proof...a symbol that Islam is full of goodness and love and light. Nobody should have to live their life that way; constantly prepared to be both an accused and a defending counsel by virtue of your personal convictions. It is where you have to study in advance so you can name ten Muslims who are doing absolutely fine in their respective fields to combat the one who was involved in illegal activities.

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Being a Muslim sometimes is praying there's a 'I know a few Muslims and they're good people' person in the room to vouch for your goodness and the fact that you're not there to blow them up because you're wearing a hijab. It's the days where you watch your sister singled out for a random search on the street because the 'Muslim terrorists' use the women in niqab to transport weapons and grenades. Being a Muslim here is the hurt and betrayal when you find out people you've known almost all your life are closet Islamophobes when a trivial issue is raised and their reply is 'Muslims are the problem in this country.' I know what you might be thinking. That it is not everyone who thinks that. But I am saying that nobody - not a single person- should have to think that. I am saying that nobody should be assigned a twisted moral compass because of their faith. It is 2018. Whatever your perception of Muslims may be, they are not terrorists. Where on one hand, many people are suspicious of Islamic beliefs and motives, some others find it inconceivable that Muslims should cry foul where 'they have it easy compared to Muslims in other countries that are REALLY discriminated upon'. 76

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Like a person drowning in a pool has it easier than one drowning in the ocean. Like pain is not pain. Like a 'little' discrimination hurts less than a 'huge' one. Where Nigerian Muslims can be said to have, to an extent, been experiencing 'just a little bit of scorn and distaste', the Boko Haram insurgency which rattled the nation's fragile state of security and crippled an entire state was the literal last straw. The group 'Boko Haram' which literally translates to 'Western education or westernization is forbidden' who affiliated with Islam claimed they were curbing the ineptitude that was Western education as it did not agree with the teachings of Islam. In mid-2014, the group had gained control of swathes of territory in and around Borno State, Northern Nigeria. And as the terrorism spread, so did the wariness of Muslims and all that Islam stands for.

trees and what Hobbes called the 'chaos and madness', a little bit of tolerance for our notable difference is required. Nay, expected.

While prejudice and bigotry might be the easy way out, we must task ourselves into realizing that fundamentally, we're all the same. First, we are humans.

Perhaps it has been an age-long principle of the human race that we fear what we do not understand, but as 21st century humans who have considerably moved away from the days of swinging from

THE WRITER: ZAINAB ONUH-YAHAYA Zainab Onuh-Yahaya is a modest fashion enthusiast and college student. She enjoys reading, writing and dreaming up minimalistic fashion hacks.

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Opinion

the slippery of

marriage. Written by Malikah Aquil

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nterfaith marriage is not a topic most Muslims talk about. For me it is a very personal topic, because for a short while I was married to a Christian man. I thought long and hard about delving into such a topic, because it can be considered very controversial. But then I thought maybe there is someone who went through this in the past, or who may be going through it currently. I spoke with a few Muslim women and below I have six problems that can arise in interfaith marriages between Muslim women and men of other faiths. Case Number One: She was taken by surprise. “When I met my ex-husband, he was introduced to me by his father, who was a Muslim, so naturally I assumed he was too. It turned out that his mother was Christian and she raised him and his siblings as Christians. After talking to him for a while I found out that he had not practiced Islam for years. I ignored my instincts and we started getting to know each other. The minute I found out he was not a practicing Muslim I should have left him alone, but we had so much in common that I was intrigued. However, at the same time I wasn’t taking it to be 79

anything too serious. I thought there was no harm in making a new friend, and he was so shy and well-mannered that I got a good feeling about him.” Case Number Two: She fell in love with his family. “He was so unlike the guys of my generation, most of them want to play around and send mixed messages, but he was starting to look like a breath of fresh air.” She expressed, “We were inseparable after that first day of meeting. We were so much alike that we got along as if we had known each other for years.” When it came time to meet his family things only got better for her.

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“They were the kindest, most welcoming group of people I had ever met. I could tell how he came to be the person he was because of the family he had. I felt right at home with them, they were like my family. I was making a mental check list and he checked off all the boxes, all, except one.” Case Number Three: She thought she could change him. When you fall in love your way of thinking changes, you start thinking that love can solve all your problems. You start subscribing to the stuff you see in romantic comedies, not considering how unrealistic it is that all of their issues are somehow resolved in 1 hour and 55 minutes and they always live happily ever after. When you’re in love all of that seems quite realistic until the honeymoon period ends and real life begins. That is when she started to see the differences between them, and realized that the rules are there for a reason. There is a reason that Muslim women are told not to marry non-Muslim men. It’s because the man is the head of the household and the woman is supposed to respect and obey him. But how do you respect and obey your husband when he is telling you not to wear hijab, or encouraging you to show a little skin? Or even trying to persuade you to have a glass of wine? That is where things can get tricky, and in that case what do you do? Do you obey your husband or your religion? 80

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Case Number Four: He took shahada on their wedding day. Deciding what religion you want to practice should not be determined by someone else. It is never a good idea to change your religion as a criterion to marry someone, because it’s always unclear whether the choice to convert comes from a genuine interest in the religion or not. If it actually does they should convert and be practicing well before marriage to prove their true interest. Case Number Five: She made excuses for the red flags. After marriage he went back to Christianity. This alone would cause some women to leave, after all, he promised to be a Muslim, he took Shahada and then he went back on his word. Leaving her stuck in a position unsure of how to proceed. This actually happens very often, many men who have interest in Muslim women and find out that they must convert to marry them and appease their parents do just that, they convert to appease their parents with no intention of actually practicing Islam.

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...Eventually we had to sit and have a very honest conversation, because for some time we were both ignoring the proverbial elephant in the room...

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Case Number Six: Married but feeling alone. I felt very alone she said, “At home I was praying by myself, fasting by myself, and feeling by myself. I got married to live in unison and practice my religion in unison with my husband, not separately. Ramadan made me seriously question if an interfaith marriage could work.” I know for many living in the U.S. and all over the world living in an interfaith marriage is not a big problem. They have children and thriving families, but that situation is not ideal for everyone. Most of those families are not very religious, or maybe one person is and not the other, but in some cases, both are religious. “What would our kids be?” She said, “I was starting to see that it would not work.” So what is the solution for all of these cases? Should they walk away from their marriage? Communication is the key. One sister said it best; “Eventually we had to sit and have a very honest conversation, because for some time we were both ignoring the proverbial elephant in the room.”

“What made it difficult,” she said “ was that he was an amazing husband, a beautiful person and a committed family man. He was not someone I wanted to lose and that was the very thing I was facing.” Marriage is something sacred and I don’t know anyone who takes it lightly or jokingly. “When my husband and I got married we had every intention of being married for the rest of our lives.” She went on, “However, circumstances put us in a position to re-evaluate the promises we made. The thought of divorce made me feel like I was letting someone down, my parents, his parents, myself.” Is divorce the right thing for them? That is not for me to say, but I know in my case it wasn’t that simple and only the two people in the marriage can determine that. My aim was just to start a dialogue that might get people thinking differently, or at the very least reinforce what they already believe.

THE WRITER: MALIKAH AQUIL I am a Caribbean American Muslim girl from Trinidad. I have lived in Brooklyn, NY for the past 20 years and I studied journalism at the University at Buffalo. I am currently a social worker and I love to write anything from poetry, to short stories to opinion pieces. Any form of creativity sparks my interest.

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Opinion

IN LIMBO.

HOURS My experience as a British grown lady going back to her home mother land, Afghanistan, as a foreigner. Written by Ariana Abawe

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fghans were populating the aeroplane as if it was an immigration centre; the sea of the British green lands slowly became microscopic as the plane lifted into the atmosphere. Everyone on the aircraft was greeting each other “Salam’s", and with the sights of traditional garments, the sounds of Afghani chants and smells of cardamom tea, it felt as if we had already landed. After a long-haul flight of twelve hours, the plane finally descended. From my window, I could see the peak of the towering mountains- it was Kabul, Afghanistan. There were no green pastures here only dry lands. Voices of laughter and anticipation lifted as the plane landed harshly on the rocky, barren land, “Yak chak-chak’’ - everyone on the plane applauded. As I stepped down the air stair, the heat wave marched towards me like a soldier, and the dusty air targeted my lungs. I waited outside the airport until my auntie collected me in her car. On the journey to my aunties’ house, we went passed smashed up houses and graveyards; evidence of over three decades of war. As we were driving through each street, Afghan soldiers were fully armed making it seem as if I had entered a war.

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Five minutes from my aunties’ house we were stopped by a hammering sound from the car's window which emerged from a beggar, this became a norm throughout the journey. When we reached the destination, I stepped out of the car and walked on the motherland; with each step my feet sunk into the searing stones, as I looked around I was amongst shoppers who buzzed through the streets. As I continued walking, the swarm of flies were indulging themselves in the cluttered waste left by the peckish Afghans. The stalls of fruits, seeds, kebabs and sweets were infusing the

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...I continued walking until at the corner of my eyes I came across a young woman covered in a blue burqa. She had a newly born baby curled up on her lap, the baby’s agitated cry revealed several weeks of hunger...

air with their delicious sensations which conquered my taste buds. Beaten by the heat, I decided to buy one skewer of kebab, little did I know my stomach would get exposed to bacteria, uncleanliness and infirmity. I shivered with nausea; the succulent meaty flavour I ingested transformed into a sour taste which then began to purge out. Nevertheless, I decided to carry on exploring the city of Kabul. As my journey continued along the river in Kabul, I entered a different world; people were injecting themselves with bereavement. As I went closer beneath the famous bridge – Pol-e-Sukhta, the foul stench of urine and faeces blinded my nasal system. The addicts were like immovable rocks, fixed only on the blazing flame of their matches heating the heroin precipitate until it smoked. After several blissful flashes, they entered the state they crave most of all, where nonentity touches them. After a while of observing them, I departed before they were alarmed by my presence. Ahead of me was a bumpy, vigilant road thriving with activity, this was the enchanting turmoil of Kabul. The roads filled with reckless drivers; among them were boys playing innocently.

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The youthful spirits rose to the game of football, as one whistled they barged with their bare feet aiming for the goal (used plastic bottles). The dust from the ground elevated into a tornado, despite this, their imagination opened smiles and laughter. Alongside them, deprived young boys aged around four waved their steel tins with smoke which caused a ringing sound – the legend has it that the smoke bears off evil spirits. I continued walking until at the corner of my eyes I came across a young woman covered in a blue burqa. She had a newly born baby curled up on her lap, the baby’s agitated cry revealed several weeks of hunger. The woman began begging, her hands arose in dismay, moving side to side in distress, the passers-by continued normally with their lives. Such a scene was not a surprise to me as back home homeless people amongst the shopping centre plead “Spare change?’’ which falls on deaf ears and diverted eyes. My hands caressed the helpless woman, all her pain, struggle and loss seeped into my soul, although, her eyes hid through the prison like cloth, her soft -spoken voice came through and comforted me “Bless you, my dear.’’

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...At sunset, the angelic athan called by the solitary human voice spiritually pulled me into the remains of a mosque to offer prayer. I was standing upright shoulder to shoulder amongst women: from the crippled to the pregnant, this unified our souls...

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Moments later, I stopped a taxi to see the treasuries; no seat belt was worn. As I gradually opened the door, antagonism uncovered, and my optic had a glimpse of the oppressor’s here the Taliban. The taxi driver directed me to 'Qargha' the river Thames of Afghanistan where the water of Paradise flowed softly with peace. The river occupied by a bevvy of swan boats which caused slow waves to twirl away the misfortunes. The sky had signs of hostility, with the sun burning its light frantically. At sunset, the angelic athan called by the solitary human voice spiritually pulled me into the remains of a mosque to offer prayer. I was standing upright shoulder to shoulder amongst women: from the crippled to the pregnant, this unified our souls. After prayer, I decided to make my way home. My shoes slid across the rocky hill like streets where I came to a hidden explosive just outside my aunties’ house. This mine was one of the thousands that have been undertrained and lost during

the endless years of war. I was making my way around it which needed precaution as one false movement would have killed me. This move taken by me has been made by the citizens every day, and not everyone is as lucky as me. The night approached, and the sun drifted into its cage, the only light for the people of Afghanistan were the stars that chained the sky.

THE WRITER: ARIANA ABAWE I am from Afghanistan and have been raised here in the UK, I love my culture, religion and I do art in my free time. Here’s some examples of my art work- I usually stick to pen and watercolour as it allows more flexibility and freedom to create an artwork, I also love writing especially about traveling.

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Living

PINK IS ALL GROWN UP NEWEST TRENDS, COOL INTERIOR, STYLISH DECOR

MILLENNIAL PINK We welcome you to explore the newest trends within interior and home decoration. In this issue, we invite you into the inspirational new color; Millennial Pink and 2018’s Art Deco comeback.

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Have you noticed the dusty pink color showing up on everything from furniture to fashion and accessories? While pink has formerly been known to be a more childish color for girls, it is having a renaissance in a more mature nuance, with a touch of a dusty, natural feel.

It is rumored that the color pink started to make a comeback in 2007, when the brand Acne launched its now worldfamous shopping bag. It has since moved into every aspect of the modern life and has grown into a genderless neutral pastel color. From Barbie doll to Empowerment Traditionally the color pink has been associated with barbie dolls, girls’ toys, and has generally been perceived as a color for the childish blonde woman and little girls. 89

If you look at the movie, Legally Blonde (2001) and Paris Hilton, pink has had a huge impact on how the world perceived them at the beginning 2000s as the slightly dumb witted woman. After the economical crack in 2008, the world became more serious, and there was no more time to play. As trend and fashion are often connected to the economical status of the world, people came down to earth and a more minimalistic and natural trend started to rise. Breast cancer awareness campaigns with the pink ribbon and supporting merchandise might have had a impact on the association of the color, pink also has an association which draws back to our childhood and has a calming effect on the mind.

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The #MeToo campaign and feminism are on the rise and pink is becoming the movements’ signature color and is now associated with empowerment rather than being girlish. As more and more women are fighting for equal opportunities, the Millennial Pink has become a household color to be reckoned with, and even celebrities such as Zayn Malik and Drake are adapting the color into their wardrobe and styles.

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Art Deco’s Newest Companion One of the biggest trends upcoming trends of 2018 will be the comeback of the Art Deco. We all remember when the movie The Great Gatsby (2013) came out and took the spotlight. Especially Gucci had a prominent collection of glittery gold dresses made of pearls in gold, silver, black and white. Suddenly all invitations, themes and commercials had the extravagant feelings of the 20’s and 30’s.

As pink has matured, so has the Art Deco. Since the style was everywhere in 2013 it has gone from being overly extravagant to more exclusive items in decoration. Velvet is the main fabric for furniture and brass, copper, silver, gold and matt black are the solids of this year. We are living in a world today where minimalism has its place in every home and wardrobe incorporating the newest trends are carefully planned with the thoughts of sustainability and quality.

THE WRITER: SIMONE DOENVANG Simone Doenvang is the founder of www.doenvang.com and are selling minimalistic Islamic Posters, which are a fusion between her Scandinavian roots and Islamic values. She is currently living in Sweden, where she is working and studying International marketing and- trading, next to running doenvang.com. Some of her interests includes interior designs, graphic design, modest fashion and the business world in general.

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Food

HEALTHY BREAKFAST Written and Photos by Sarah Machbaete

Oh!

Another work day ahead! You get out of bed with sleepy eyes wondering what you are going to fill your hungry tummy with! This chocolate muffin or that sneaky croissant. Or what about skipping the meal and rushing to the car...much more easy! Stop...stop. What would you think if I tell you that breakfast is your most important meal of the day? That’s why this should be a fair reason to have a healthy and nutritious one. Basically, your body is fasting each day during its sleep time and it needs to be refueled with energy. 94

So here you are with a fact, if you don’t get a proper morning meal, you can feel less concentrated, moody and it can affect the maintenance of your weight. So now, are you going to promise me that no more breakfast skip is gonna happen? For my side, I set up a morning 5-min breakfast rituals where I combine healthiness and yumminess. One of my favorite breakfast is oatmeal porridge that is really easy to prepare and depending on available toppings you have in your fridge, you can really turn out cooking into an art therapy.

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INGREDIENTS BASE 1 cup oats 3/2 cup milk 1 cup water 1 mashed Banana (Optional: you can use honey, jam or maple syrup instead) ¼ tsbp salt

TOPPINGS Fruits: berries, slices of any fruit you have in the kitchen (kiwi, apple, mango, pear…) Seeds: chia seeds, flaxseeds, hemp seeds…

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METHOD 

Put your oats in a heavy sauce pan then add milk and water.

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Then boil the mix slowly while stirring continuously.

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Once oats start to thicken, add the mashed banana and lower the heat. Be careful that porridge don’t thicken too much.

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Serve in a bowl and let your imagination play by putting toppings. You can have free art therapy session in your home.

THE WRITER: SARAH MACHBAETE Hi! I am Sarah Machbaete, a Moroccan food blogger, an engineer, an organic skincare formulator and a working mum. I love baking healthy and yummy meals and I try via my blog to share vegan meals to encourage people to think about animals and environment and to discover plant-based diet benefits.

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Health

in the health & fitness industry

Written by Kaoutar Hannach

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efore discussing the issue at hand, let’s briefly explain the current obesity situation amongst women on planet earth. 1/3 of the world population is over-weight, of which 62% live in developing countries; that is more than 900 million people – let that sink in… Women have the highest rate of obesity in developing countries e.g. India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Brazil, Mexico, Egypt and South Africa. A lot of these countries are Muslim countries. In addition, obesity is also high in developed countries e.g. China, USA and Germany. This result in tremendous mental and health issues for example depression, cancer, heart malfunctioning and in some cases, even death! 98

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America is one of the countries that has the highest obesity rate, according to the State of Obesity, Black and Latino women have the highest rate of adult obesity in the US population, 82% and 77% respectively. Unfortunately, this dilemma does not just affect the adults; it has a direct effect on the kids, our future generations!

According to the statistics, it is evident that women of faith and colour are most likely to be overweight and obese, which means it would be logical for magazines, health & fitness events and sport brands to portray representatives of these women (from different faiths and backgrounds) in order to encourage and empower women to prioritise and pay more attention to it.

Kids grow up watching their parents, who powerfully shape their early experience with food and eating habits and so the problem needs to be tackled from its roots and from the early stages.

I made a simple search on Google to have an idea on what the current health magazine covers look like. Not that I didn’t know, but just to prove my point, here it is:

How does it all relate to the lack of diversity in the health and fitness industry?

What we are looking at is something most women of colour and faith would never be interested in reading, it doesn’t showcase them, it doesn’t represent them and it doesn’t relate to them.

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Similarly, when I used to go to fitness events I used to be the only hijabi there and there would probably be one Black or Asian woman in a crowd of Caucasian women. I used to look around wondering where the women of different ethnicities and races were; it used to bother me quite a bit as you can imagine. Sometimes I felt like I didn’t belong there or that I wasn’t supposed to be there - which is exactly the mind-set that I’m challenging and trying to change! There isn’t a point in mentioning the fitness brands or organisations hosting these events but I do hope that if they are reading this, then they be a bit more conscious of the representation and the perception they are putting out there. The questions we should all be asking are: Does the lack of diversity lead to 100

a lack of following by those who need it most? If it does, why is there a lack of diversity and what are we doing to tackle it? Isn’t the point of the health industry to help those who need it most? All these observations led me to the conclusion that if ‘they’ are not going to make an effort to reach out to women of ethnic backgrounds and faith, I will start my own campaign. This will consist of a series of health and fitness events in London (for more details head to my @EVOLVEwithK Instagram page). The starting point is to promote diversity by empowering women, educating them and bringing awareness to the issues at hand. The other purpose of the EVOLVEwithK Campaign is unity.

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To be seen beyond our appearance and differences, to be accepted for who we are as people, promoting love, peace and to fight racism.

Currently we are looking for hard working and ambitious ambassadors to make the campaign global and in turn change people’s lives for the better…

Charity is the last component of the campaign, by not forgetting the people who don’t have the means to buy food and nourish their body. All proceeds for the EVOLVEwithK campaign merchandise go straight to charity.

I hope you found this article interesting, slightly eye-opening and a little inspiring. If interested in joining our campaign, please contact me by tapping the icons below:

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