Gaycation Spirited Bars & Restaurants of NOLA
m a g a z i n e
Dining in WeHo Food & Spirits in the Witch City October 2014 Issue 10
www.gaycationmagazine.com Founder/Editor-in-Chief DJ Doran dj@gaycationmagazine.com Editor/IT/Marketing Joe Morales joe@gaycationmagazine.com Social Media/Circulation Tony Guadagnino @tonyguad tony@gaycationmagazine.com Contributors James Careless James Clark William Legault Kim Ranjbar Stevie St. John Sebastian Strozza Advertising Department sales@gaycationmagazine.com Subscription Department subscriptions@gaycationmagazine.com Article and Photo Submissions editor@gaycationamagazine.com General Info travel@gaycationmagazine.com Social Media GaycationMagazine GaycationMag +Gaycationmagazine1 GaycationMag gaycationmagazine gaycationmagazine October 2014 Issue 10
About the Cover Photo: The cover photo was taken in Ogunquit Maine the fall of 2013 during the Out n About Road Trip. Believe it or not, that is a REAL pumpkin. We have no idea how much it weighed but it was very large. Send address changes and subscription info to: Gaycation Magazine 931W 75th St Suite 137-215 Naperville, IL 60565
Feast 34 An in-depth exploration of local dishes. Postcards 38 Gaycation photos from the world over Feature: Food and Spirits in the Witch City 42 There’s This Place... Recommendations of unusual LGBT destinations.
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Feature: Dining in West Hollywood
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Gaycationers 70 Meet some of the incredible people that have become part of our family of Gaycationers. Advertising Index The above photo is a public safety announcement. Please be careful this holiday season. Don’t text and fly, text and drive, and God forbid, don’t drink and drive. It can wait or get a cab. Again, another photo snapped while visiting Ogunquit Maine...
CONTENTS
Letter from the Publisher
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The Wire 10 LGBT travel news and information, ranging from hotel openings to travel planning tips. Feature: New Orleans Spirited Bars & Restaurants 18 EVENTS 27 Found It! 28 Travel products to help you get through your gaycation with ease.
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Letter from the Publisher
Fall is in the air and we are well on our way to winter. I don’t know about you, but I don’t think I’m quite prepared for it. Last year at this time Joe and I headed off onto our Out n About Road Trip. We kicked off our road trip in a vintage 1979 Bluebird Wanderlodge motorhome that we dubbed Priscilla and headed for New England to see the fall foliage. On our itinerary were Vermont, Maine and Massachusetts. The fall foliage was amazing and there were so many beautiful colors, which you’ll see throughout this issue. We had met the most amazing people along our brief adventure and vowed to return very soon. It seems we have come full circle as we take another turn of the wheel so to speak. We are again returning to Salem Massachusetts for the All Hallow’s Eve festivities. We are without our beloved Priscilla but we are happy to return to one of the many places we visited during our time together. As I reflect on the past year, I realize that had it not been for the great adventure we sought, we would never have met the people that are now in our lives. Nor would we have had the opportunity to present to you Gaycation Magazine. Our host from last year was the Marquessa Gigi, the Official Queen of Salem and her husband Jimmy. Gigi has been gracious enough to host us again this year and we will celebrate the life of her husband Jimmy who sadly passed away in September of this year. I hope you enjoy this edition of Gaycation Magazine and it’s ghostly treats… Happy Halloween, DJ
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PROVINCETOWN your vacation just got sexier
PTOWN.ORG
The Wire
LGBT travel news and information, ranging from new hotel/resort openings to cruise itineraries and travel planning tips and products and services that we like
IGLTA Conference In these gatherings, between 300 and 450 representatives of civil society organizations from around the world come together for one week, where public officials, legislators, academics, directors of cooperative institutions and representatives of offices of the United Nations also participate in enriching our analysis and discussions. This meeting is the most important decisionmaking body of ILGA in relation to its internal operations, approval of new members, adoption of important issues and campaigns for our local and global agendas, the work plan to follow and the internal and external definition of the organization. In these conferences, each member organization can express their opinions and concerns and each has the right to vote on the various matters before them. At the same time, the conference is an opportunity to strengthen the LGBTI movement especially among affiliated organizations in the region where the meeting takes place. ...ILGA’s 27th World Conference, “De-colonizing our bodies,” is the second to take place in Latin America and the first in Mexico. The symbol of the Conference, Tlazoltéotl, is a Huasteca goddess representing transformation, lust, sins and filth; we have chosen her for her transgressiveness, a force to empower us to transform the world.
Japan’s Gay Pride Japan’s Prime Minister’s wife Akie Abe made a surprise appearance on a float at the 2014 Tokyo Pride. Abe has been involved for some time in the fight against HIV and has been an outspoken supporter of gay rights, saying on her Facebook page that she wanted to see “a society where everyone can 10
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live a happy, enriched life without discrimination” The colourful parade and celebrations in Tokyo’s Yoyogi Park on the 27th April attracted over 15,000 people and was aimed at pushing for end to discrimination and prejudice.
Image courtesy of Ruben Espinosa
U.S. Toughens Mexico Travel Warning After Kidnappings, Mass Graves In Guerrero By Dolia Estevez Mass kidnappings and the discovery of mass graves in the Mexican State of Guerrero, a prime tourist destination on the Pacific coast, forced the U.S. ... The new warning, issued on October 10, calls on Americans to “defer non-essential travel www.gaycationmagazine.com
to all parts” of Guerrero, except for the cities of Acapulco, Zihuatanejo, Ixtapa, Taxco and the caves at Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, where visitors area advised to “exercise caution.” ...But it is a good guess that it was caused by hightened security concerns for Americans tourists in Guerrero, a preferred place for tourists that is rapidly becoming ungovernable. ...On a less alarming note, the Travel Warning says that here is no evidence that organized criminal groups have targeted U.S. visitors. ...Following the mass disappearance of students in Guerrero, which has exposed how deep statesponsored violence and corruption runs, Guerrero has been making headlines around the world. In Iguala–a historic town with a population of 110,000, located 120 miles South of Mexico City–43 students teachers were allegedly taken by corrupt local police after a day of protest. ...The students attended a local teacher training college, the only academic option for young people in Guerrero’s impoverished rural communities, with a history of left-wing activism. ...But the bodies were so decomposed and burned that Mexico’s Attorney General José Murillo Karam said it would take months for DNA testing to determine if they are the missing students. ...The students’ disappearance set off a wave of outrage across Mexico and abroad where people and NGOs have taken to the streets to demand Peña Nieto produce the students alive. There has also been a diplomatic outcry, with the UN, the European Union, the U.S. government and the Organization of American States calling for a full and impartial investigation. ...Up until now, Peña Nieto has been acclaimed by the world community for his ambitious agenda of daring economic reforms, but as Jude Webber wrote in The Financial Times, the students tragedy, plus the massacre of 22 people allegedly by the army in the State of Mexico in June, “show how Mexico’s old stereotypes of crime, corruption and cronyism are valid as ever.” www.gaycationmagazine.com
Behrouz Mehri/AFP/Getty Images
Tourists Discover the Modern Attraction of Ancient Iran by NPR Staff Officials in Iran say they are issuing more tourism visas, and spending by foreign visitors is up. ...But Kahmin Mohammadi, an Iranian-born journalist and travel writer, says if you stay away from those regions, you’ll find a warm welcome. ...But beyond the capital city, she recommends the city of Esfahan, with some of the most exquisite mosques in the world. ...”We have a medieval mosque, for example, called Monar Jonban, which has two minarets,” she says. ...If you climb up in one minaret, wedge your legs against one end and wiggle, it moves with you. ...Mohammadi also recommends Esfahan for what she calls “the quintessential Persian experience”: tea at the Abbasi Hotel. “Lounge back against Persian carpet-covered cushions ... with the fountain tinkling and a nightingale singing” to really soak in the culture, she says. Another must-see is Shiraz, outside Persepolis, the 6th century B.C. palace and capital of the ancient Persian kings. “One of our great Persian kings, Darius, is actually mentioned in the bible for freeing the Jews from slavery ... in fact, the [ancient] Persian empire was known for being very tolerant,” Mohammadi says. Gaycation Magazine
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Uncle Sam wants you to stay away from these countries Consider yourself warned By Simran Khosla, GlobalPost ...Depending on where you live, you’re reminded of that every time you turn on the TV or read the news. If you are citizen of the United States there’s also another consistent reminder: State Department travel warnings. ...”We issue a Travel Warning when we want you to consider very carefully whether you should go to a country at all. Examples of reasons for issuing a Travel Warning might include unstable government, civil war, ongoing intense crime or violence, or frequent terrorist attacks. We want 12
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you to know the risks of traveling to these places and to strongly consider not going to them at all. ...We catalogued all the travel warnings now in effect and created the graphic below to show all the places where the US government doesn’t want its citizens going (click the image to enlarge): ...Let’s also not forget that the United States can be a very dangerous place itself, and that U.S. foreign policy has helped turn some of these countries into the dangerous places they are now. Click on any of the countries below to see the detailed warning issued by the U.S. ...Security warning for entire country: Algeria, Saudi Arabia, Russia, Honduras, Djibouti,Venezuela, Iran, El Salvador, Burundi, Niger, Mozambique and Haiti. ...Avoid all travel to some regions: Ukraine, Nigeria, Cameroon, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Sudan and Chad.
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Un rendez-vous élégant L’escale française par excellence, que ce soit pour des vacances ou un voyage d’affaires. Dans le confort luxueux d’une demeure historique située en plein centre-ville de Saint-Pierre, à 200 mètres du traversier. Une expérience exquise vous attend.
For a holiday, getaway or business trip... NSP is the quintessential French experience. Indulge yourself in modern luxuries. In the centre of town and a mere 200 meters from the ferry terminal our heritage building is a haven of elegance. An exquisite experience awaits you.
À Nuits Saint-Pierre le petit déjeûner est inclus At Nuits Saint-Pierre, breakfast is included
orial du To rrit
isme ur
Prix Te
Une petite faim? Besoin d’un cadeau ou d’un souvenir? A tad hungry? Need a gift or a souvenir? Rendez-vous au rez-de-chaussée de l’hôtel aux Délices de Joséphine Visit Les Délices de Joséphine on the main floor of the hotel
10 rue du Général Leclerc, BP 4445, 97500 Saint-Pierre et Miquelon 011 508 41 20 27 | 011 508 55 59 82 (cell)
nuitssaintpierre.com info@nuitssaintpierre.com
vos hôtes
The other kind of gay cruising. Caribbean Windjammer
INTIMATE Our private charter is host to just 24 guests, not 2,400 passengers. And our crew of ten is always ready to attend to your needs.
RELAXING Kick off your shoes while you feel the warmth of the Caribbean sea breezes. Leave the world-class DJ behind and enjoy the sounds of island tranquility.
INCLUSIVE Surrounded by like-minded gay men, let the camaraderie fuel your sense of adventure with breathtaking hikes on the islands of Nevus and St. Barths, snorkeling the crystal clear waters of St. Kitts or floating on a noodle in the shadows of our ship. And it’s all included, no sticker shock bar tab at the end of the week! Pricing includes all onboard meals and snacks, beverages, beer and wine, snorkel gear, guided hikes, taxes and port charges.
Inaugural Sailing October 19-25, 2014 From $1,699 per person OutingsAndAdventures.com or call 727.776.5213 for more information
New Orleans: Spirited Bars & Restaurants by Kim Ranjbar
While visiting New Orleans, here’s some deliciously spirited spots to haunt … and be haunted!
Haunted Bites
From the tireless Rebirth Bras Brass band playing “Do Whatcha Wanna” at The Maple Leaf in the early morning hours to the sip of a liquorladen Hand Grenade on Bourbon Street, the spirit of New Orleans cannot be denied. You can feel it in the warm, tropical air, hear it in the music, smell it in the aromatic honeysuckle (which grows just about everywhere), taste it in the gumbo, crawfish etouffee, and crème brulee, and see it in the hospitable smiles of its fun-loving locals. Not only is New Orleans one of the most exuberant, joyous and effervescent cities in the world, it is also, reputedly, one of the most haunted. Founded in 1718 before the United States was even formed, New Orleans has a three century-old history and has survived two major fires, a couple of wars and countless hurricanes. There are over 150 historic buildings in Orleans Parish and the entire French Quarter is officially dedicated as a National Historic Landmark. Here in the “city that care forgot” we live amongst the dead, sharing our existence with ancestors buried in numerous (over 40 within Orleans Parish), above-ground cemeteries and those spirits lurking around every corner who seem to have no intention of “moving on.” 20
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Muriel’s Jackson Square – Located inside a historic building erected in the 1750s on the corner of Jackson Square in the French Quarter, Muriel’s has become a “go-to” restaurant for visitors (alive and dead) since it’s opening in 2000. Executive Chef Gus Martin keeps diners coming back with his Turtle Soup, Shrimp & Goat Cheese Crepes, Double Cut Pork Chops and Flourless Chocolate Cake. Open for lunch and dinner every single day, you’re always bound to find a table prepared at Muriel’s, they even have one set for their “otherworldly” guests. A previous owner, Pierre Antoine Lepardi Jourdan, lost this gorgeous building that was once his home in a poker game and in a fit of despair committed suicide on the second floor. In a space now dubbed “The Séance Lounge,” guests and employees have reported have reported seeing “a glimmer of sparkly light” that wanders around. Many believe it is Jourdan who could never leave his one true love... the house on the corner of Jackson Square. 801 Chartres Street 504.568.1885 www.muriels.com Chartres House - This 18th century building was once the bohemian place-to-be, attracting artists like Tennessee Williams, one of our favorite playwrights who penned “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” and “Streetcar Named Desire.” Passers by can’t help but stop inside the Chartres House with its French doors opened to the street and the aroma of Fried Shrimp, Chicken & Andouille Gumbo and Cashew Crusted Redfish wafting through the www.gaycationmagazine.com
was exiled from France, and although the infamous French leader never set foot in America, the building on the corner of Chartres and St. Louis has been known as the Napoleon House ever since. Relax in the lush courtyard and enjoy a Shrimp RemouladeStuffed Avocado or a Roast Duck Po Boy, but keep a lookout for an older black woman believed to be a domestic slave who lingers there. Guests have also reported glimpses of a Civil War soldier who haunts the 2nd floor apartment. 500 Chartres Street 504.522.4152 www.napoleonhouse.com
Quarter. Folks might want to be wary of the secondfloor dining room that, in the late 1990s, was an apartment that was nigh impossible to rent. While showing the space, prospective tenants would become physically ill, unable to complete the tour past the living room. It is believed that the ghost haunting the Chartres House is a recently deceased entity, a young man who died of a gunshot wound in the 1970s due to drug trafficking. People still claim to see him to this day standing in a window overlooking Chartres Street. 601 Chartres Street 504.586.8383 www.chartreshouse.com
Napoleon House – Nicholas Girod was the original owner of the Napoleon House built in 1797. Girod was also the mayor of New Orleans from 1812 to 1815 who offered his residence to Napoleon Bonaparte in 1821 when the emperor www.gaycationmagazine.com
The Court of Two Sisters – At one time a notions shop owned by notoriously, inseparable sisters Emma and Bertha Camors, The Court of Two Sisters has now become a travel destination due to its picturesque courtyard, bubbling fountain, festive jazz brunches and delectable cuisine. Devour Shrimp en Brouchette or Corn-Fried Des Allamands Catfish and try to catch sight of Emma and Bertha lounging in their beloved courtyard. If you don’t see them there, feel free to visit their graves where they lay side-by-side at St. Louis Cemetery No. 3 on Esplanade Avenue in Mid-City. 613 Royal Street 504.522.7261 www.courtoftwosisters.com
Haunted Sips Pat O’ Brien’s – Likely one of the most visited and recognized bars in New Orleans, Pat O’Brien’s is the home of the Hurricane, that dangerous yet delightful concoction made with rum, fruit juice and syrup or grenadine. It seems the Hurricane isn’t the only spirit to be found at this landmark establishment. Employees have reported cold spots, the sounds of footsteps and the tinkling of keys in the piano bar when they were all alone in the early morning hours. Also, women visiting the ladies room have reported hearing footsteps and the sound of a woman sighing coming from empty Gaycation Magazine
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stalls. Sometimes it might be better to just hold it! 718 St. Peter Street 504.525-4823 www.patobriens.com
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop – Rumored to be the oldest continuously occupied bar in the United States, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is a National Historic Landmark built sometime before 1732 and is believed to have been used by the infamous pirate Jean Lafitte and his brother Pierre as a base for their Barataria smuggling operations. As you can imagine, there have been numerous reports of hauntings from a mirror upstairs that reflects the face of notorious Voodoo Priestess Marie Laveau to a pair of red, glowing eyes peering from a cold fireplace grate. Perhaps if you down enough sazeracs, you won’t even notice their preternatural guests. 941 Bourbon Street 504.593.9761 www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com 22
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The Bourbon Pub – A popular hangout in the New Orleans gay community, The Bourbon Pub is a simple bar downstairs and a dance club (replete with balcony) upstairs. It was also voted one of the top ten gay bars worldwide by GayTravel.com. There’s always something going on at the Bourbon Pub & Parade which is open “24/7” with special performances and events around holidays like Halloween, Mardi Gras and Decadence Festival. Although there always seems to be someone haunting the Bourbon Pub, guests have reported visits of the supernatural persuasion like cold spots and disembodied voices on the balcony and encounters with a small, Creole lady (dubbed “Mam” by the staff) seen walking through the bar in the early morning hours wielding a large, wooden spoon. 801 Bourbon Street 504.529.2107 www.bourbonpub.com
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Old Absinthe House – Located on the corner of Bourbon and Bienville, the Old Absinthe House has been a French Quarter fixture since 1806. What began as a corner grocery evolved into a saloon which was rumored to be the location where Pirate Jean Lafitte and General Andrew Jackson planned the victory over the British in the Battle of New Orleans, which is why the bar still bear’s Jean Lafitte’s name. The bar’s motto is “Everyone you have known or ever will know, eventually ends up at the Old Absinthe House” and certainly seems to ring true, especially when patrons report sightings of long-dead legends like Jean Lafitte himself or Voodoo Priestess Marie Laveau. Staff have also reported spirits of the “unseen” variety who move bottles and glasses behind the bar and opening and closing the doors. Maybe it is better to just keep your nose buried deep in your Ramos Gin Fizz. 240 Bourbon Street 504.524.0113 www.ruebourbon.com/oldabsinthehouse
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Though she was born in the San Francisco Bay Area, Kim Ranjbar felt New Orleans calling her home as soon as she hit puberty. A graduate of Sonoma State University, Kim took her passion for the written word and dragged it over 2000 miles to flourish in the city she loves over ten years ago. You can follow Kim on Twitter @sucktheheads and read some of her other works at Where Y’at, New Orleans Living Magazine, www.NolaWoman.com and her personal blogs, www.sucktheheads.com and www.nolafoodporn.com. She can also be found playing her level 90 troll shadow priest in Azeroth. For the Horde!
Happy Halloween! From all of us at Gaycation Magazine
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EVENTS
Here are the events and shows Gaycation Magazine will be attending or will have a presence. We’re always adding more and looking for that special event for us to be at. If you would like us to attend your event, please let us know at travel@gaycationmagazine.com SEE YOU SOON!
Oct 30th to Nov 2nd, 2014
Halloween Festivities Salem Massachusetts
Dec 30, 2014 to Jan 1, 2015
Evolve Vegas NYE www.evolvevegasnye.com
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Found It! We search the world over for “must have” travel items for everyone from the novice weekender to the seasoned globetrotter.
Cool and Useful Travel Tech! by James Careless Cool and Useful Travel Tech! By James Careless Traveling can be a chore, what with all the airport security hassles we all have to contend with these days! No matter: Although Gaycation Magazine can’t make those hassle go away, we can make your traveling life easier thanks to the following very cool travel tech items. Ever notice that, with each subsequent trip you take, the number of electronic gadgets, cords, and chargers that accompany you just seem to increase? Now you can try packing them neatly, but then Security happens: After passing through the security check, you have to quickly stuff everything back into your bag and orderly packing be damned.
Well, there’s a smart solution to this dilemma, and it is called the GRID-IT! organization system. Functionally, GRID-IT! is a flat panel with lots of elastic retaining straps going side-to-side and top-tobottom across its surface. You can slip any number of gadgets, cords and chargers under these straps, in whatever pattern makes sense at the time. When you get to Security, just pull out the GRID-IT! Panel 28
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and show it to them, then put it back into your bag. Finally: One of life’s little annoyances has been solved! GRID-IT!s come in various sizes; track them down at www.cocooninnovations.com.
Noise-cancelling headphones are a boon to any traveler, whether for hearing music/movies or just blocking out airplane noise (or the screaming baby three rows down). Harman-Kardon’s NC (noise cancelling) headphones provide this capability in an elegant over-the-head configuration; complete with large, generously-padded ear pieces, a rechargeable battery that runs up to 40 hours, and a inline remote/microphone cord to connect to iPhones/iPads so that you can make phone calls while wearing the headsets. You can also use the inline remote to control your iPhone’s playback and audio levels. $299.95 at www.harmankardon.com. The TrakDot Luggage Tracker is a little batterypowered device that goes into your suitcase, to help you find your bag after landing. The TrakDot does this by checking the nearest cellular towers at the airport it has arrived at – hopefully the same as tours -- and then sends you a text/email to let you know which airport that is. This can be www.gaycationmagazine.com
incredibly helpful if your bag has been misplaced in the baggage area and everyone sears it never arrived, or flown to another city by mistake. The TrakDot is FAA/FCC approved. It costs $49.99 to buy, and has a $19.99 annual service fee. Find it at www.trakdot.com.
Hotel Internet connections can be hit-or-miss; especially if the only connection in your room is a single Ethernet cable. No problem: The Belkin Wireless Dual-Band Travel Router lets you create your own high speed WiFi hotspot in your hotel room. Just plug it into the single Ethernet cable, and your smartphones and tablets will be able to sign onto the Web as easily as your laptop can. The Dual-Band Travel Router works in both the 2.4GHz and 5 GHz bands for reliable WiFi coverage, and offers data encryption for security. Its maximum data throughput is 150 Mbps. However, your actual data rate will be limited by the top speed of the hotel’s broadband service to your room. $69.99 at www.belkin.com. www.gaycationmagazine.com
Free email access anywhere you’ve got an Internet connection: That’s what you get from the www.Mail2Web.com website. All you have to do is enter your email address and password on its Web page. Mail2Web will give you access to the emails stored in your account online, allowing you to read, reply to, send, forward and delete messages while you are on the road. I personally have used this service for years, and never had any security issues. The great thing is that I can check all my email accounts through this Web page wherever I am, even if I am using a public computer!
James Careless is an experienced travel journalist with credits at the Huffington Post, Montreal Gazette, National Post, and OUTVisions magazine.
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Summer in Salem! Go Out Loud Ushers Summer Sea Cruise Events For EVERYONE This Summer! For the latest events, merch, news & tickets :
GoOutLoud.com
Vermont
Feast An in-depth exploration of a traditional local dish and how it connects to the culture, with recipes and recommnedations where to eat.
JUANA M RESTAURANT BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA by Sebastian Strozza It is a hidden gem in the city. Friends had recommended I try Juana M but I usually had another option. However last year I said, “ Well Juana M needs a chance “ so I went and it was love at first sight. After that I generally go once a month. Located in a basement in the Retiro neighbourhood in front of La Recova, it is a place where you can go as a couple, with friends or alone, because it feels like home. There are candles on each table, low lighting throughout the restaurant, and paintings covering the walls. The restaurant also offers up several table sizes depending on the guests’ needs. If you go with a group you can sit at one of the square tables that seat between 8 to 10 people, so everybody can talk and share the same conversation. If you are there for the barbeque, the waiters will ask you how you would like your meat cooked. Don’t worry, most waiters speak English. If you’re not a fan of beef, they also have for fish, chicken, pork, pastas or salad bar. The salad bar is a great option if you’re a vegetarian or watching your weight. Sometimes I’ll ask for a chorizo sausage as an entrée and a skirt steak for main course with a good glass of Malbec. (If you are the only one who drinks in your table you can ask for a glass or a small wine bottle). You are going to wait a lot of time for your main course, and for me, that 34
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is a bonus because sometimes you wait for more than a half hour for a piece of meat! The place is busy everyday but especially during weekends (I suggest you to make reservations or arrive early). They are also open during lunchtime. Compared to the US, Argentina starts late for dinner. Usually any time after 8 pm is ok, and you are going to see that at 11 pm the place is crowded! When I go with European or American friends they cannot believe that! Make sure you leave space in your belly for dessert! The portions are big and I recommend you share some of them. For example: tiramisu, chocolate mousse, apple pancake or the Argentinian cheese and jam. Juana’s bomb for dessert is a big glass with strawberries or red fruits (depending on the season) with meringue and ice cream. It’s to die for!!!! When the bill arrives, you are going to be surprised because it is a very cheap place. I went with my partner and my BFF with his girlfriend and we spent around 200 Argentine pesos each and we drank a bottle of wine, less than 25 USD on the official rate). You are going to have a great time especially if you share that experience with people you love. JUANA M CARLOS PELEGRINI 1535 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4326-0462 website: www.juanam.com OPEN DAILY FROM NOON TO 4 PM 8 PM TILL CLOSE.
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Sebastian Strozza is travel agent and director of Heima Tours, a GLBT travel agency based in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Sebastian speaks Spanish, English, some French and Portuguese and loves to travel and eat! If you are in Argentina, or planning on a trip, contact him and he can help you during your travel. You can follow him on Facebook at Heima Arg, visit his website www.heimatours.com. ar or E-mail him at sebastian@heimatours.com.ar
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Top Photo: Rainbow Bridge between NY and Canada
Bottom Photo: Niagra Falls! New York and Canadian Sides
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MIAMI’S LGBT VOICE
We warmly welcome you to the LGBT Visitor Center, the proud voice of all things gay in Miami and the Beaches. We’re located in Old City Hall in the heart of South Beach at 1130 Washington Ave., Suite 100, Miami Beach, FL 33139. To plan your next vacation in fabulous Miami Beach, go to GoGayMiami.com or call us at 305/397-8914. MAR Winter Party
APR Miami Beach Gay Pride Miami Gay & Lesbian Film Festival
MAY Aqua Girl Sizzle Miami
JUN Out in the Tropics
JUL Miami Beach Bruthaz Conference
OCT Orgullo
LGBT VISITOR CENTER •1130 WASHINGTON AVENUE, 1ST FLOOR, MIAMI BEACH • GoGayMiami.com This ad made possible through the support of the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. For a complete listing of events, please visit GoGayMiami.com Additional support generously provided by:
NOV White Party
Postcards
Mount Rinjani National Park’s Tiu Kelep waterfall flows from the highest peak in Lombok, Indonesia. Stay tuned for more in January when we feature Lombok...
Show off your Gaycation by sending us your photos and we might put `em here!
Gigantic bugs along the Ohio Turnpike! Yikes!!
Image to the left: Cabella’s Parking Lot, Scarborough Maine 2014. One of our overnight stays while touring New England for the fall foliage. Slowly making our way to South for the winter. After a couple of Out n About Road Trip detours of course.
Sharp curve ahead...Somewhere on I-90 about Cleveland Ohio...
HardRock Cafe Duvall St, Key West
Food & Spirits in The Witch City: A Local Bon Vivant Walks Naumkeag by William Legault
When visiting a new destination it is often difficult to decide where to begin your exploration. In Salem you will not encounter that problem. This geographically small city is truly designed for those who like to walk. The streets are narrow and crowded, as are many of the sidewalks, but it’s possible to walk a mile from your destination quicker than you could drive there. Over the last twenty years Salem, originally known as Naumkeag when first settled by Europeans in 1626, has evolved into the premier dining destination north of Boston. This was not achieved by design, but by the hard work of many a daring restaurateur. 42
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No matter where you are staying in Salem, whether it is the Historic Hawthorne Hotel, The Waterfront Hotel & Suites, or one of the many Bed & Breakfast’s it is only a short walk to the center of the city. Town House Square is where any food and drink exploration in Salem should begin. There sits the recently refurbished Salem Town Pump, which commemorates Nathaniel Hawthorne’s “A Rill From a Town Pump”. This is the site of the original water source for both the natives and the Puritan settlers and also the main walking trail which later became Essex Street. It is here that the spirit and spirits of Naumkeag gather before seeking their nightly sustenance. www.gaycationmagazine.com
A stones throw in any direction will bring you to one of seventeen food and beverage establishments featuring contemporary American cuisine, Italian offerings, Indian fare, Mediterranean plates, Irish breakfast, and many more basic items like pizza, sandwiches, and soups. A walk across Washington Street brings you to the Gulu-Gulu Cafe, a European inspired hangout known for it’s hipster crowd and it’s large selection of craft beers. Their menu of salads, savory crepes, wraps and grilled paninis combined with young bearded hipster men and funkily dressed hipster ladies guarantees constant and fascinating activity. In that same culinary corner sits The Naumkeag Ordinary, a place where the Puritan leadership would have been sure to gather, if just to quaff a Pimms Cup, made with Pimms No. 1, cucumber, and ginger beer or perhaps a Gentlemen’s Agreement using Bully Boy Whiskey, lemonade, honey, and mint. You can be sure that the Puritan big shots would stay away from the excellent Deviled Eggs. Walking back to the Town House Square, we stop and commune with the spirit of episodic television in the form of a bronze statue of Samantha Stephens from the Bewitched TV comedy now in perpetual re-runs. From there, a few steps north, just past City Hall, one of Salem’s newest food and beverage destinations is located. A short stop at Opus is always worthwhile. With an Asian inspired, yet modern decor the upstairs dining room and bar is in a constant state of buzz and excitement. The younger crowd enjoys the sushi and small plate selections. There is no other place in town to get either grilled octopus with charred tomato, feta, mint, and white anchovies, or Mexican street corn, butter poached with chipotle cumin aioli, and queso fresco. The best spirits at Opus are to be found in what is called “The Underground.” An intimate, dimly lit room of shadows and rock walls where the cool kids of the night scene hangout and commune as the music plays and the thirst for spirits are sated. www.gaycationmagazine.com
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Further up the road is Church Street, home of the new Turner’s Seafood At Lyceum Hall. Lyceum Hall is built on what was the land of Bridget Bishop’s, who raised apples there and was the first innocent hung as a witch at Salem’s Gallows Hill on June 10, 1692. Many have noted the occasional scent of apples in the bar on cool October evenings and the upstairs function rooms are well known for spirited activity. Church Street leads to Brown Street and then to the Salem Common, a large public park surrounded by a very old black wrought iron fence. Just before the entrance to the Common is an imposing and dramatic bronze statue of Roger Conant who is credited as the founder of Salem. The cloaked, and quite serious Conant faces the main entrance to the Common and is a favored photography target. There is one particular angle that naughty photo hounds have favored for years. From the Common, a walk down to the waterfront is quick and easy. To stop into the Hawthorne Hotel is always a good idea. We can attest that the staff is capable of mixing a properly spirituous martini. Upscale dining is offered in “Nathaniel’s In The Hawthorne Hotel”, their formal dining room. Steve’s Seafood Chowder with shrimp, scallops, clams, and haddock is a crowd pleaser. Featured entrees include Shrimp and Scallops Sophia, and EHD Beef Tenderloin honoring America’s first millionaire, Elias Hasket Derby. Many are the stories of spirited activity within the walls of the Hawthorne Hotel. A recent stay in a third floor suite provided no encounters with the supernatural, but if we did not say that the experience was comfortable and the ambience spiritual we would be remiss. The waterfront in Salem does not loom in front of you. The fresh smell of salt air is suddenly present and the thoughts of ship and sails begin to permeate your mind. Derby Street meanders along the water’s edge with buildings and wharves lining the southern coast. The area features many restaurants that rival the Town House Square destinations in every way. 44
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Congress Street, off of Derby features Scratch Kitchen where bacon is indeed made from “scratch” and a delightful beer and wine list. Further down is the Grapevine Restaurant home of a libation, which uses Bulleit 95 Bourbon, called Hawthorne’s Spirits that compliments perfectly a wonderful Coulotte steak that is served with grilled asparagus. Across the way is Pickering Wharf, a retail area featuring shops, restaurants, and a harbor side boardwalk that will take you to historic Derby’s Wharf home to the U.S.S. Friendship, a replica frigate that will sometimes actually take to the sea. Manned by volunteers, the Friendship is home to all of the nautical memories and spirits of Salem. The mainstay on Pickering Wharf is Finz Seafood & Grill. Finz features a great deck overlooking the Congress Street Marina. Their oysters are shucked at the bar when ordered and the wine menu features some great wines, like a South African Chinon Blanc selected to pair well with raw shellfish. The Asian Gimlet featuring Hanger One Kaffir Lime Vodka, yuzu juice, and lemongrass simple syrup is a standout. Sitting on the deck on a cool, crisp Friday night while sipping on a Gimlet is an easy way to look at the boats moored along the piers and envision sea captains and their crews hastening to prepare their vessels for the open seas. Also on the wharf is the last original Victoria Station Restaurant, which overlooks Derby’s Wharf and Salem Harbor. The 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar, home to Antonio Bettencourt, our local celebrity chef who has created with Amanda Lyon and won awards for Best of Boston on a yearly basis. Do not leave the wharf without stopping at the more casual Longboards Cafe & Bar for a flatbread washed down with local beer, or The Picklepot where Salem’s home based cooks shop for seasonings, implements, and inspiration. Further down Derby Street, just past the ½ mile long Derby’s Wharf you’ll find the Witch’s Brew and In A Pig’s Eye. They are two longtime neighborhood fixtures that provide a real flavor www.gaycationmagazine.com
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of Salem. The Witch’s Brew features a specialty called the Witch’s Brew Steak, which is also offered as chicken or seafood. It is a sizzling plate with the meat served on French bread with steamed vegetables in a garlic butter. All it takes is one to come out of the kitchen to create culinary chaos as others order it after watching it steam by. We could guide you along to many more places, but that will have to wait for another time. No trip to Salem is complete without sampling a product from The Notch Brewing Company. It is owned and operated by a Salem kid. Notch Brewing leads the session beer movement, which is basically a return to the drinkable beers of our Puritan forebears. In the spirit of those who inhabited Salem’s past, and who may still be observing from Old Naumkeag, let us lift a glass to the past and revel in our present here in Salem.
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William Legault is a well-known figure in downtown Salem. A man of many hats, he writes, works as a personal trainer, is part of the local political scene, knows how to mix a proper cocktail, and is a respected raconteur. www.gaycationmagazine.com
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Top Photo: Wax figure of the Joker. So creepy, I couldn’t stop staring and then further creeping yourself out! Bottom Photo: Niagara Falls, Canada. The misty cliffsides of Canada.
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Gaycation Magazine brings the world of gay travel to your fingertips. Explore new and familiar gay destinations. Learn what to do, what to eat, and what to wear. All this information wrapped up into a magazine which brings the culture of gay travel to life.
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Any articles, photos or information submitted to Gaycation Magazine become the sole property of Gaycation Magazine. The views and opinions stated throughout the magazine are not necessarily the view and opinion of Gaycation Magazine. Gaycation Magazine and its affiliates will not knowingly publish or advertise information, which is fraudulent or misleading. The Publisher reserves the right to edit, limit, revise, or reject any submission without cause. Gaycation and its affiliates assue no financial responsibility for typographical errors. If any arrors are found, please notify Gaycation Magazine immediately. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Pay rates can be found on our website. Please send images in hi-res and articles to editor@gaycationmagazine.com
There’s This Place Come and Enjoy Stunning Views “Glamping at Out in the Open
by James Clark
Now don’t get me wrong I’ve always loved
the bright lights of London, the edginess of Soho and the dance beats tearing through Vauxhall, but every once in a while it’s nice to head off for a bit of peace and quiet. What better change of scenery than glamping, or for those of you who aren’t in the know, luxury camping. Destination: the ‘Out in the Open’ site on Lower Dacum Farm, near the village of Porkellis in the beautiful Cornish countryside. Lower Dacum Farm is literally teaming with wildlife; it won’t be long before you’re peering up at owls, kestrels, buzzards and other birds of prey and foxes, weasels, rabbits and pheasants aren’t uncommon. Explore the conservation area that has a woodland and large pond with trout, toads and newts. The pond is a great place to hang out on a hot day and enjoy the shade from the large plants. It’s quite possible that you’ll see herons, ducks, geese, badgers, dragonflies and mayflies while you’re there. Out in the Open started up in 1999 as a gay campsite, but as times have changed and people have become more open, the site is available to all. Over the years they have moved with the times and luxury camping or ‘glamping’ as it is known is also available on the site. It’s important to emphasis that if you’re looking for a weekend of hedonistic partying then Out in the Open is not for you. Dee and Cath, who aim to limit numbers on the site to maintain a quiet and respectful atmosphere throughout the 21 acres of space, run the campsite. On offer are sensational views, fantastic facilities (this is glamping after all) and the chance to leave all the stress and strain of the city behind you for a few days. I have never been one for roughing it and have 52
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spent years travelling the globe with a suitcase jumping from one hotel to another, rather than a rucksack and backpacker hostels. As a child I was a cub scout and spent weeklong holidays camping, but those years were long behind me. I have been haunted ever since by nightmares of creepy crawlies, sleepless, cold and damp nights and filthy bathroom facilities. Even the thought of it makes me shudder. Last year I saw glamping on the TV and once totally convinced that it was luxury camping, I thought what the hell let’s give it ago. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that there are various options for a nights sleep and that glamping accommodations can come in the form of a yurt, a shepherd’s hut, a lodge and a tipi. A yurt is a circular tent based on the traditional homes of Mongolian tribes with a wooden door. Shepherd’s 54
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huts are a large shed type building similar to those used by shepherds watching their flocks. A lodge is usually either a wooden shed or large safari tent. Tipis are tents used by Native Americans, but with a modern twist, made with fabric rather than traditional skins. The accommodations have wooden floors to prevent dampness and just about everything in the way of furnishings that you could hope for. Glamping is a great way to enjoy the outdoors and be closer to nature, without sleeping in a damp sleeping bag and waking with insects on your face that you’d really rather have stay outside the tent. At Out in the Open there are two shepherd’s huts; both for your use, in a separate field away from the campsite and overlooking some of the greenest and most tranquil scenery imaginable. www.gaycationmagazine.com
other delicious produce are scattered around the area, Dee and Cath will be more than happy to point you in the right direction. There’s even a 24hour supermarket a few minutes drive away at the nearby town of Falmouth & Helston. And if you’re feeling really organised you can order local produce and have it waiting for your arrivel from www.cornishfoodmarket.com. Now that’s what I call service. The site is open seasonally between April through to October; email Cath and Dee to check availability camping@outintheopen.co.uk
Attention to detail is the key with glamping, the larger hut was built by a local craftsman and blacksmith and furnished with a brass double bed and antique pine furniture, top quality warm bedding, luxury towels, oil lamps and lanterns and a wood burning stove. Next door to the sleeping quarters is the smaller shepherd’s hut that dates back to 1910. Don’t let that put you off it has been restored with well equipped cooking facilities and all the mod cons that you could wish for inside. Why not enjoy the night sky, light the barbecue and eat at the outside picnic area. The toilet and shower facilities were a short walk from the sleeping quarters. You’ll do just fine with a torch. If it’s alcohol that you’re after then a short walk to the village of Porkellis will take you to the local gay-run pub The Star. The staff and locals are friendly, at time of printing the kitchen was closed, but this hopefully will change soon. Farmer’s markets selling fresh meats, vegetables, eggs and www.gaycationmagazine.com
James Clark, UK Based travel writer, exploring the world everyday.
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photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger
Dining in West Hollywood:
Famous LGBT enclave West Hollywood, a “city within a city” nestled in the Los Angeles area, is a primo nightlife destination with an array of clubs, numerous music venues and the glitzy Sunset Strip. And when it comes to food, the “Creative City” doesn’t disappoint. WeHo has a diverse palate that’s anything but bland. During your visit, there are plenty of options for a unique dining experience. WeHo, which has banned drive-through restaurants, is essentially a fast-food-free zone, so don’t plan to grab a quick burger or taco before painting the town red. Instead, allow time to take in one of the city’s many mid-range to high-end eateries. With the compact size of WeHo—which clocks in at less than two square miles—you can probably leave your car (if you even bothered to rent one) at the hotel. Dinner, drinks and dancing are all within walking distance of one another and your crash 58
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space, which means you can avoid headaches about who’s the designated driver. Andy Keown, director of communications for Visit West Hollywood, the city’s tourism bureau, said that culinary offerings run the gamut from casual and trendy to fairly high-end. “We have the whole range of food and beverage experiences,” said Keown. However, there’s no need to go overly formal when you choose your evening attire. The WeHo aesthetic is stylish yet casual. “It’s not intimidating dining,” Keown said. So grab your comfortable shoes (it’s walkable, but you may have to walk uphill!) and set out on Sunset Boulevard or Santa Monica Boulevard to taste what the city has to offer. It can be a tough place for restaurants to make a go of it—several shuttered in 2014—but new eateries are always poised to move in and try out new culinary concepts. One of those new restaurants is the Horn, which is scheduled to open its doors soon. “A different, healthier take on the common steak house,” the Horn will feature “things that are off the beaten path” such as boar, bison, kangaroo, elk and ostrich, according to owner Adam Klesh. Game on the Horn’s menu will be leaner meats from naturally grazed (and not factory farmed) animals that are not treated with hormones. Lamb
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Exotic Game, Vegan Quesadillas & Virgin Cocktails photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger
by Stevie St. John
from Colorado, alligator from Louisiana, kangaroo from northern California. Executive chef Aaron Mitrano said that the meat will be at the forefront of each dish and won’t be overwhelmed by sauces or vegetables. “We really want the animal to shine through on the dish,” he said. If the idea of exotic meat doesn’t tickle your taste buds, WeHo also has offerings tailored to a vegetarian or vegan diet. Gracias Madre is a Mexican restaurant with a menu that’s all organic, all made-from-scratch—and completely vegan. Many of the ingredients are locally sourced, and the restaurant grows some of www.gaycationmagazine.com
its own food on a Vacaville farm. “What I love about West Hollywood is [it’s] just this crazy cocktail of all kinds of people,” said chef Chandra Gilbert. “I think that Gracias Madre kind of summarizes the neighborhood in its diversity.” Gilbert noted that the menu includes traditional Mexican cuisine such as quesadillas as well as nontraditional fare such as kale and quinoa salads. Like many California venues, Gracias boasts outdoor space—specifically, a patio where patrons can look out on the olive trees while enjoy dinner or drinks. Those drinks include wine, beer and organic cocktails such as “what I believe to be the best margarita in town,” Gilbert said. Gaycation Magazine
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photo courtesy of Eric Wolfinger
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Margaritas and other cocktails are on offer at a wide array of WeHo spots, especially the strip of bars that pepper the city’s “Boystown” area. (Though known as an LGBT enclave, WeHo’s population skews much more toward gay men than the other letters—queer women account for only a small slice of the population.) Not interested in tequila, vodka and rum? If you’re sober or if you have kids in tow, you can sip non-alcoholic versions of popular cocktails at the new coffee shop/virgin bar TWINS. The European-style coffee house, featuring virgin versions of various cocktails, opened its doors in September. Situated on the famous Sunset Strip, TWINS is perfectly situated for people-watching. And in WeHo, well-known playground to the rich and famous, you never know who you might spot. Many celebrities are known to eat and party in WeHo—and some back businesses there themselves. For instance, Lisa Vanderpump (The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills) is owner (along with her husband) of WeHo restaurant P.U.M.P. Lounge. In addition to being an owner and namesake of the club and restaurant, Vanderpump is herself often seen there, according to Keown. Keown also praised the business itself as “a great little restaurant [with] lots of ambiance.” Also among Keown’s favorite spots are Connie & Ted’s, a so-called “seafood shack” with a “really cool setting” and the Church Key, an American dim sum eatery. “It’s just really inventive and delicious, and it’s a gorgeous space,” said Keown, who lauded the Church Key’s dry-ice cocktails as a “very theatrical and fun experience.” Keown is also looking forward to the opening of the Japanese restaurant Yellow Tail. The new venture is from chef Akira Back, who also has a restaurant on the Las Vegas strip. With some old standbys and some innovative new concepts, WeHo has a lot to offer in the way of gastronomic pleasures. Whether you’re in town
for the music scene, the LGBT scene or something else, make sampling local cuisine part of your agenda. With its full slate of restaurants, bars and clubs, the Creative City is sure to have something to satisfy your pallet or whet your whistle. The Horn, 8933 Santa Monica Blvd. www.thehornweho.com Gracias Madre, 8905 Melrose Ave. www.graciasmadreweho.com TWINS, 8410 W. Sunset Blvd. www.twinslosangeles.com PUMP Lounge, 8948 Santa Monica Blvd. Connie & Ted’s, 8171 Santa Monica Blvd. www.connieandteds.com Church Key, 8730 W. Sunset Blvd. www.thechurchkeyla.com Yellow Tail, 8768 W Sunset Blvd.
Stevie St. John is a freelance writer and editor in Los Angeles. She is the VP of Communications for the L.A. chapter of the National Lesbian & Gay Journalists Association (NLGJA-LA).
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Gaycationers
Meet some of the incredible people that have become part of our family of Gaycationers. They can usually be spotted pretty easily by their warm smiles and willing to help attitude when you arrive in their towns or cities. Here are just a few that we’ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so send a photo to editor@gaycationmagazine.com
Dee Farell and partner on their trip to Lombok, an island in Indonesia. Watch for Dee’s article about her trip in the January issue of Gaycation Magzine. See what this little island has to offer! 70
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Joe having to deal with DJ and his photo taking skills. Bennington, VT during the Out n About Road Trip Fall Foliage episodes 2014.
DJ Doran visiting Bellagio in Vegas...He shouldn’t be touching the Chinese coin but he couldn’t help himself. There wasn’t many people around, just a few hundred. That’s all.
Pictured: Kevin Letourneau and Sharon Needles as Go Out Loud’s Offical Scream Queen of Salem, Massachusetts. November 1, 2013. Posting this just in time to see Sharon Needles return to Salem for 2014!
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Gaycationers
You can’t see me...
Top Left and Right photos: Sculptures of cougars in the town of Bennington VT, Fall 2013. Middle Left: Not sure, they could be Gaycationsers right? They look like they’re enjoying themselves that’s for sure. Middle Right: DJ posing with a ? statue. Not really sure what he was but he was guarding the information booth. Bottom Left: You can’t tell from this photo, but Joe was really pissed off at DJ...
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Gravesite of Robert Frost and family. Not so much Gaycationers as it is spooky and creepy.
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Salem Mass 2013 Top Photo: City Hall original inhabitants Bottom photos: Samantha from Bewitched and her placard from TV Land 76
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Salem Mass 2013 Top Photo with Inset: Judge’s house that rulled in the witch trials. Right Photo: Wtich Trial Memorial tablet.
Crossword Puzzle
Solution can be found on page 82
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Salem Mass 2013 Top Photo: Halloween Revelers (freaky) Top and Bottom Right: Street Performers Bottom Left: Marquessa Gigi and friends
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Advertising Index Here’s a list of FABULOUS people that want you to visit. So much so, they wanted to be in Gaycation Magazine! If you’re interested in reaching a fiercely loyal audience, then contact us at sales@gaycationmagazine.com. We’re sure you won’t be sorry. Atlantic Escapes
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Miami LGBT Center
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Evolve 2015
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Moose Meadow Lodge
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Floris Suite Hotel
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Nuits St. Pierre
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FunMaps 56
Ogunquit Chamber of Commerce
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Gay Key West
2,3
OutClique 15
Gay Tours Ibiza
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Outings and Adventures
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Go Out Loud
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Pink Banana Media
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Guys World Travel
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Prism Werks
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IGLTA 14
Provincetown
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Island House Resort
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Purple Roofs
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Maui Sunseeker Resort
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Trip Out 84
Solution to Crossword on page 79
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Mayan Explorer
26
MedCallAssist 57
ZenBiz Travel
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Salem Mass 2013
UP NEXT Holiday Travel November/December 2014 Issue 11 The best places to experience the holidays: Reykjavik, Iceland Leavenworth, Washington Vienna, Austria
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Travel series “Trip Out” Showcasing Luxurious Destinations & Events for the LGBT Community
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