Gaycation Magazine Issue 12 January 2015

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Gaycation m a g a z i n e

The Marriott Resort in San Juan, PR

Grand Bahama Island

Lesbians on the Loose in Lombok

January 2015 Issue 12




www.gaycationmagazine.com Founder/Editor-in-Chief DJ Doran dj@gaycationmagazine.com Editor/IT/Marketing Joe Morales joe@gaycationmagazine.com Social Media/Circulation Tony Guadagnino @tonyguad tony@gaycationmagazine.com Contributors Kelsy Chauvin @kelsycc Aaron Drake @theaarondrake Dee Farrell Jessica Fest @jessonajourney Gregory L. Kiep @gregorykiep Dan McCrory Sherel Purcell Advertising Department sales@gaycationmagazine.com Subscription Department subscriptions@gaycationmagazine.com Article and Photo Submissions editor@gaycationamagazine.com General Info travel@gaycationmagazine.com Social Media GaycationMagazine GaycationMag +Gaycationmagazine1 GaycationMag gaycationmagazine gaycationmagazine January 2015 Issue 12

About the Cover Photo: A beautiful and clear sunny day on the beach in Cancun, across from Isla Mujeres overlooking the lagoon. Ah, winter! Send address changes and subscription info to: Gaycation Magazine 931W 75th St Suite 137-215 Naperville, IL 60565

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There’s This Place... 52 Recommendations of unusual LGBT destinations. Miami and South Beach with a Travel Planner What Was I Thinking? 56 Stories submitted by Gaycationers about crazy experiences. Wait - What’s in my Taco?? Book It! 60 Recommendations of LGBT friendly hotels and resorts. San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino Gaycationers 64 Meet some of the incredible people that have become part of our family of Gaycationers. Advertising Index

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The above photo is shot from the balcony of a resort located in Puerto Vallarta. If you stare at the photo long enough, you can feel the warm night air kiss you goodnight...

CONTENTS

Letter from the Publisher

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Grand Bahama Island

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COLUMNS

Greg’s Gaycations 14 Gregory Kiep takes you on an adventure this time to Puerto Vallarta!

Feast 34 An in-depth exploration of local dishes. Saint Lucia and the Salt fish Postcards 40 Gaycation photos from the world over Lesbians on the Loose Two lesbians visiting Lombok Bali

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Letter from the Publisher

Well my friends, here we are! 2014 is in our rearview mirror as we look forward to the challenges and opportunities of what lies ahead for 2015. This coming year it is our goal to push the envelope of publishing a gay travel magazine instead of maintaining the status quo. We are committed to bringing you featured articles written by experts that will showcase “off the beaten path” destinations and insightful reviews of LGBT welcoming hotels and resorts that you can use and trust when planning your next gaycation. Our editorial features will delve deeper into the nuances of gay travel so that we can provide you with practical travel insights and tips that you can’t find anywhere else. I appreciate all of the love and support we have received over the last few months and I am looking forward to 2015 with anticipation and excitement as I explore ways in which to present gay travel experiences in new and interesting ways through articulate writing and experiential photography that transports you and invites you to feel like you are part of the story. So in 2015, I challenge you to go out and explore this big world of ours because gay travel is so much more than Pride and parties. I encourage you to seek those out of the way destinations, go beyond what everyone else is doing and walk outside of your comfort zone (within safety constraints of course) when deciding where your next adventure will take you! You might be surprised that you created lasting memories that would have otherwise been unrealized!

DJ

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PROVINCETOWN your vacation just got sexier

PTOWN.ORG


Church in Lee, Massachusetts

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Greg’s Gaycations

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico is arguably the most gay-friendly destination in Mexico and in North America. From its eclectic bar scene to its open and liberal attitudes, it is one of my favorite places to visit. Having spent over 20 weeks roaming around everywhere from Blue Chairs to Nuevo Vallarta, I have found some spots NO ONE should miss. Where to Stay So, first things first, where does one stay when they are vacationing within PV? I have stayed at a variety of places and there is certainly something for anyone, regardless of your taste. Blue Chairs 14

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By: Gregory L Kiep

is the tried and true gay favorite, with a fun bar/ stripper scene and the center of the gay beach life in town. The rooms are on the cusp of getting redone, which will be a huge improvement for the property and help justify the price point. The beach at Blue Chairs is busy with a LOT of local vendors peddling their wares on a consistent basis. This can get annoying but it is certainly the place to be if you want to see bodies tanning during the day. A smaller favorite of mine is Hotel Mercurio, around the corner from Blue Chairs. There are certainly less rooms and it is not on the beach, but they have a fun pool scene and a very social ambiance. Everyday, they have a delicious www.gaycationmagazine.com


breakfast and happy hour, which is a great way to make new friends. Accommodations are basic but clean and it is a great location in town. Want to have more of an “all-inclusive” experience? Check out the Hard Rock in Nuevo Vallarta. This hotel is phenomenal with gorgeous rooms complete with individual hot tubs. There are four restaurants on site ranging from Italian to Asian that will appeal to any diner’s taste. The pool area is among the best I have been to with a swim up bar and a smattering of activities to keep you entertained during the day. Plus, with free food and drinks, how can you go wrong? Where to Play The bar scene in PV is quite extensive with www.gaycationmagazine.com

something for everyone, regardless of the night of the week. You can certainly get into some trouble if you aren’t careful! :) My suggestion is to bop around the city, checking them all out until you see what works for you. The “gayborhood” is fairly small and it is easy to get to the majority of the clubs from one another. One of my favorites to start the night is La Noche, which has 3 floors with a variety of feels on each. There is a gorgeous roof deck with views of the city that you should not miss and the perfect place to start the night. Ready to dance? I have two favorites that will ensure you have a great time. First is CC Slaughters, which has a great scene and always a good vibe with music and dancers. Feeling a bit more circuity? Head over to Club Enter to dance the night (and morning) away! No matter where you end up, you Gaycation Magazine

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will meet some super friendly (and sexy) people, guaranteed! You Don’t Want to Miss … I have two suggestions from all my time in PV that I am going to say fall under the “must” category for anyone visiting. The first is one of my favorite places for dinner or happy hour called, The Swedes Bar & Bistro. The gay-owned restaurant has phenomenal food and a great location with perfect sunset views if you go at the right time. The menu is eclectic with some Swedish specialties mixed in that are delicious. Pop in and say, “hi” to Morgan, the owner, and you won’t be disappointed! Do you like margaritas? Then you should stop everything and book a trip to PV just for this next 16

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suggestion. A true local hangout, Monchis has some of the best margaritas I have ever tasted and I have never left there without a fun story. It is a small venue with only a food special of the day, but worth checking out. The drinks are cheap but strong and the company is unsurpassed. Do not miss it!

www.gaycationmagazine.com


About Greg Greg travels the world from one gaycation to another, all the way from Iceland to Mykonos. Whether a speedo-filled beach or a cultural excursion, he has been around the world once or twice! He funnels this expertise into his work as one of the premier marketing consultants for the LGBT community. Based between Los Angeles and Boston, he goes from coast to coast working with events and companies to propel their brands and social following. You can find out more about him at www.GregoryKiep.com.


Un rendez-vous élégant L’escale française par excellence, que ce soit pour des vacances ou un voyage d’affaires. Dans le confort luxueux d’une demeure historique située en plein centre-ville de Saint-Pierre, à 200 mètres du traversier. Une expérience exquise vous attend.

For a holiday, getaway or business trip... NSP is the quintessential French experience. Indulge yourself in modern luxuries. In the centre of town and a mere 200 meters from the ferry terminal our heritage building is a haven of elegance. An exquisite experience awaits you.

À Nuits Saint-Pierre le petit déjeûner est inclus At Nuits Saint-Pierre, breakfast is included

orial du To rrit

isme ur

Prix Te

Une petite faim? Besoin d’un cadeau ou d’un souvenir? A tad hungry? Need a gift or a souvenir? Rendez-vous au rez-de-chaussée de l’hôtel aux Délices de Joséphine Visit Les Délices de Joséphine on the main floor of the hotel

10 rue du GĂŠnĂŠral Leclerc, BP 4445, 97500 Saint-Pierre et Miquelon 011 508 41 20 27 | 011 508 55 59 82 (cell)

nuitssaintpierre.com info@nuitssaintpierre.com

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Grand Bahama Island, The Bahamas By Dan McCrory

Shocking though it may seem, tropical locales like the Bahamas are a couple steps behind us in the establishment of marriage equality and other rights that some of us are beginning to take for granted in American society. Like President Obama, the Bahamaian opinion of the LGBT community is “evolving.” More on that later. Grand Bahama Island is not the biggest or the closest island to Florida, but it’s pretty close. Looking for a tropical island getaway in the Caribbean, there are a plethora of choices: Aruba, Jamaica, or the Dominican Republic. Grand Bahama, though somewhat rustic, is not overrun by tourists, a drawing card for those looking to get away from 20

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it all. If you’re looking for a party scene, head to Nassau on Paradise Island. If an LGBT community will grow and thrive in the Bahamas, Nassau with its WTF attitude, would be the place. Flying to Grand Bahama from the west coast is often an eight-hour ordeal that includes a six-hour flight from LAX, a two-hour layover in Miami, and a short 45-minute hop to the island. That’s probably why most tourists to the area are Canadian Snow Birds who sail down along the eastern seaboard to get here, Europeans, and Americans from anywhere east of the Mississippi. There are hotels, timeshares and bungalows for every budget. Upon most arrivals, visitors are greeted warmly as soon as the plane lands. A hostess awaits at the resort with ready-made Bahama Mamas, a local tourist drink that capitalizes on a Caribbean staple, rum. Grand Bahama is an excellent vacation choice for those looking for lots of downtime. There are miles and miles of deserted white sand beaches with turquoise waves gently lapping at the shore. Even the occasional busy beach can be frantically active one moment, the island’s rake-and-scrape music blaring from the speakers with drunken patrons bellying up to the bar, and devoid of civilization ten minutes later. With a year-round temperature that hovers around 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit, the weather is almost always perfect. There are the occasional rainstorm and hurricane, but they move in and move on quickly. There are lots of culinary choices at the Lucayan Marketplace, named after an extinct tribe of indigenous people who greeted and were enslaved by Christopher Columbus and his successors. (He first came ashore in the New World at the island now known has San Salvador not very far from here.) Though there’s nary a native descendant left www.gaycationmagazine.com


This is Harry the Blue Heron. He swoops down to the Garden of the Groves for about four months every year for some easy living and three squares a day.

to protest, the Islanders all celebrate Columbus Day, October 12th, as Discovery Day and parties and festivals can be found on many of the islands. On Grand Bahama, the day is celebrated with an observance of the Conch Festival in McLean’s Town, a day of conch cracking by experts and amateurs, conch fritters, conch salad, fried conch and lots of Sands Beer, the main industry of the island. Try the Bush Crack, a smooth malt liquor that rarely makes it off the island as an export. Locals and tourists fan themselves under makeshift shelters or dance to local music. In October, on the beginning edge of Hurricane Season, the weather can still be unbearably hot and humid during the day, so the recommendation is to stay near water to cool off. Fortunately, that’s easy to do on Grand Bahama; the ocean is usually a stroll or quick bike ride away. There’s also a hotel pool within walking distance or a canal that weaves through the island and under the highest point of the island: a bridge that rises a dizzying 30 feet above sea level! Diving expeditions both small and large are willing to certify you and get you out among the shipwrecks and sharks, and both are found in abundance. The sharks are curious, but rarely are they up for a taste test. Pier One restaurant, located on the north end of the island where Beware of www.gaycationmagazine.com

Sharks! signs warn visitors of their close proximity, hosts hourly evening feedings. On the hour, restaurant staff will toss several pounds of chum off the balcony and, for a few minutes, a feeding frenzy ensues as diners look on. Once, it is said, a photographer wanted to get a close-up of feeding time and was disappointed when the sharks were too scared of him to come after their free meal. Local boat captains stand ready for a half day or full day hire or you can sign up for a snorkeling and fishing trip out to Peterson’s Cay, one of the smallest national parks in the Bahamas, a tiny promontory of land a mile off shore where the fish you catch can be cooked over an open flame and augmented with local lobster. You can also make the journey by kayak and snorkel among the coral reefs that hug the west side of the little island. Snorkelers can spot schools of tropical fish, elkhorn and soft corals, sea fans and an occasional manta ray or barracuda. Most of the nightlife in Grand Bahama centers around the Port Lucayan Marketplace. You can also visit bars in abundance that take advantage of cool island evening breezes to offer most of their wares under the stars on a verandah. If you’re feeling lucky, you can stroll across the street to the Casino at Grand Lucayan Resort. You won’t find any locals at the blackjack tables; by law, Bahamians are Gaycation Magazine

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barred from gambling in any casino on any island. If you’re looking for trinkets to take back to the family, they can be found anywhere. From the colorful huts at Taino Beach and those adjacent to Port Lucayan Marketplace, you will find that most of the wares – everything from cardboard/ straw sun hats to hand-carved knick-knacks – are made locally. There are also some shops at the International Bazaar, but the main buildings, desolated by past hurricanes, have not been rebuilt and stand in various stages of disrepair. Don’t forget the big Fish Fry on Wednesday night. Locals and tourist alike gather at six establishments on the point at Smith’s Point Beach. Some places serve up a plate of the local catch of the day – usually yellow tail, barracuda and mackerel – with the fish staring back at you. They heap on a pile of peas and rice, black-eyed peas and brown rice, baked mac and cheese with a slightly spicy flavor and, if you’re lucky, a piece of guava duff for dessert. 24

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Looking for more to do? There are eco tours, a tour of the local brewery for a cheap drunk, and the dazzling Garden of the Groves to get a glimpse of local flora and fauna. Though it is possible for a guy to meet a guy and a woman to hook up with a woman, most of the folks of the Bahamas are conservative Christians. The atmosphere is changing quickly, though. A plane crash recently took the life of a very popular evangelical minister who was very vocal in his condemnation of the LGBT community so that event may hasten change. Still, open public displays of affection may draw unwanted attention to you and your partner, so proceed with caution. You may occasionally stumble upon a drug deal in progress. Bahamians everywhere understand the importance of tourism to the nation, so you will be warned to move along and ignore what you’ve seen. There’s even a popular t-shirt that carries the Warner Brother’s film symbol and says, “If ya see da police, warn a brutha!” www.gaycationmagazine.com


Gay Friendly Alternatives: Tiamo Resort, located on South Andros, is the only spot currently blessed by the ILGTA, the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association, in the Bahamas. Exuma Palms Hotel on the island of Exuma in Georgetown Rates from $120/night during the Summer Low season to $250/night during the island’s regatta in April. Oceansong at Rainbow Bay, Eleuthera Island: A house with a view on the beach with all the amenities. $135/night or $900/week with a threenight minimum.

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DAN McCRORY loves to travel! In social media he’s known as the FRUGAL TOURIST and enjoys writing about ways to save money while traveling. He says travel is “all about the people you meet and the food you eat!” While especially fond of the Caribbean, Dan loves the nightlife of Bangkok and the beaches of Sydney and recommends both. Next, he’s writing a profile on LA Mayor Eric Garcetti and a balanced look at Genetically Modified Organisms in our food. Gaycation Magazine

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Beach in Puerto Vallarta



Zen Rocks Upstate New York

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2014 EVENT CALENDAR MAY 24-26 ~ NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt Display JUNE ~ Chamber Music Festival, Lifeguard Dash JULY 4 ~ Independence Day Fireworks! AUGUST 21 ~ Annual Sidewalk Art Show & Sale AUGUST 30 ~ Annual Labor Day Weekend Sidewalk Sale SEPTEMBER ~ Festival of Kites, Lobster Dash OCTOBER 24-26 ~ Annual OgunquitFest NOVEMBER 9 ~ Celebrations by the Sea Wedding Expo Photo Credits: Robert Dennis, David Sullivan and Ogunquit Beach Inn

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Waikiki Beach Honolulu Hawai’i


A Taste Of Saint Lucia

Feast

Exploring Saint Lucia through its national dish, and learning how it earned such a prestigious title.

An in-depth exploration of a traditional local dish and how it connects to the culture, with recipes and recommnedations where to eat.

Saint Lucia is the definition of paradise: white sand beaches, billowing palms, and waterfront villas. While this helped sway my decision of where to go for a long weekend getaway from NYC, my main purpose was to immerse myself in the island’s culinary culture -- including sampling the national dish of Green Fig & Salt Fish and as much chocolate as humanly possible. It was a self-appointed mission I had gladly accepted. When I first heard the words “Green Fig” and “Salt Fish,” I immediately pictured salted local fish topped with sticky sweet figs. In actuality, Saint Lucia locals refer to green bananas -- the island’s largest export -- as figs. And they’re not sweet, but boiled with water and salt when green and unripe, either peeled (the purist’s way) or with the skin on. Explains Jenni Killam, owner of Spices Cooking Studio (http://spicescookingstudio.com/) in Saint Lucia, “Green figs are for us what potatoes are in North America. They’re an important part of the local diet, usually served as part of the main dish

or in side dishes or salads. Although, in the case of the Green Fig & Salt Fish it’s part of the main course, either served alongside the fish or mixed together with it, served warm.” The salt fish in the dish is traditionally salted cod, although today other varieties of fish might be used. Boiled, flaked and sautéed with onions, local peppers, chives, thyme and other herbs and spices, the fish makes a flavorful accompaniment with the somewhat bland boiled figs. While a visit to the island of Saint Lucia allows me to taste the dish for myself, I’m still confused about how it came to be embedded in the culture. Ms. Killam, whose parents, grandparents and great grandparents all happily cooked Green Fig & Salt Fish for their families -- explains to me that the dish actually originated before the mid-19th century when slavery existed, which is true for many of the island’s local specialties. During this time bananas were over abundant, and dried and salted cod could be inexpensively imported from Nova Scotia, Canada. “Back in the day, salt fish was among the rations given to the slaves because it was cheap, easy and a good source of protein,” says Ms. Killam. “The slaves ingeniously cooked the salt fish and added their own herbs and spices to make it tasty, which are still used in the dish today.” The recipe has been handed down through the generations, becoming more embedded into the culture. Saint Lucia locals eat Green Fig & Salt Fish all year, typically on weekends and with a side salad of grated cucumber or lettuce, tomato and avocado. Historically the island had a large Roman Catholic population, which meant no eating

By Jessica Festa/Epicure & Culture

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meat on Fridays. Saturdays are also a popular day to eat Green Fig & Salt fish, as most families opt for something easy to prepare to save time for completing chores and errands. While not much has changed with the dish over the years, one thing has: the price. Ms. Killam laughs, “Today salt fish is no longer considered a poor people’s food because it is no longer cheap to make.” One particularly special time to enjoy it is during the annual Jounen Kwéyòl (Creole Day) Festival in October. Historically, Saint Lucia was actively fought over by the French and British, with each having claimed ownership several times. There is still a rich French-based Creole culture on the island, and Jounen Kweyole is the official day to celebrate that heritage. During the festival, traditional dishes -- including Green Fig & Salt Fish -- can be sampled in abundance along with seafood, sweets and beverages such as cocoa, tea, and fresh fruit juices. If you visit outside of this time, a good starting point for your Green Fig & Salt fish exploration is Castries Market. Here you’ll find an array of food stalls selling the meal, each putting their own unique twist on the traditional recipe. Additionally, Green Fig and Salt Fish is a staple menu item at most local restaurants. I always appreciate a dish more when I’ve learned its background, and as a heaping plate is set in front of me I remember the information I’ve been given, which enhances the experience. www.gaycationmagazine.com

It’s definitely not the type of meal I would order at home, and actually not something the average restaurant would serve back in NYC. Not only had I never heard of salt fish before, but to me a banana was something you ate with a bowl of oatmeal for breakfast, not as the base of a savory dinner. But isn’t that the point of traveling? Being taken away from what you know to expand your knowledge and become a more worldly person? For me, the answer is “yes.” With my fork I gingerly break off a bit of banana and some fish, wanting the flavors of both at once. And I’m glad I did, as the firm yet soft texture of the banana and the flaky fish offer the perfect contrast, while enhancements like cilantro and parsley combine for an added layer of surprise. Sautéing the ingredients has allowed the garlic, pepper and onion to seep into the fish for a delightfully bold flavor. What’s pleasing to me isn’t just the taste of the food, however, it’s the opportunity to explore local heritage through my palate. The dish I’m eating tells the story of Saint Lucia, tracing its history from the 1700s. That’s a truly special thing to be savored. Gaycation Magazine

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Green Figs & Salt Fish Recipe (via Spices Cooking Studio) Ingredients 1 lb salt fish 8-12 green bananas 1/4 c coconut or vegetable oil 1 large onion, coarsely chopped 1 medium sweet pepper, coarsely chopped 4 seasoning peppers, thinly sliced 1/4 c chives, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, grated 2 tsp fresh thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper Parsley for garnish Preparing the Salt Fish Rinse the salt fish to remove excess surface salt. Place the salt fish in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 15 minutes. Drain water; refill the pot with fresh water and repeat boiling process for another 15 minutes. Drain and set salt fish aside until cool enough to handle. Clean salt fish by removing all skin, scales and bones. Flake the cleaned salt fish and set aside. Put oil in a pan over meduim heat. Add onions, peppers, half the grated garlic and saute until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add flaked salt fish, 1 tsp thyme and half the green onions to the pan and stir to mix thoroughly. Cover pan and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Uncover pan, add remaining garlic, green onions and thyme and mix well. Turn off the heat, season salt fish with salt and pepper to taste. Cover pot and set aside until ready to serve.

green figs to cover and set aside for about 10 minutes. Drain water and allow the green figs to cool enough to handle. Carefully remove skin from the green figs, using a small knife if needed. Put the peeled green figs in a pot of boiling water; add 1/2 tsp salt and 1tsp vegetable oil. Bring to boil and simmer for about 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and leave to cool enough to handle. Slice each green fig on the diagonal into 3 pieces. Place slices of green figs on individual serving plates and top with a generous portion of the cooked salt fish. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with a grated cucumber salad and/or a mixed salad of lettuce, tomato and avacado on the side. Serves 4

Jessica Festa is the editor of the online travel publications Epicure & Culture and Jessie on a Journey. She enjoys getting lost in new cities and having experiences you don’t read about in guidebooks. Some of her favorite trips have been teaching English in Thailand, trekking her way through South America, backpacking Europe solo, road tripping through Australia, agritouring through Tuscany, and living with a family in Ghana. You

Preparing the Green Figs

can also follow her on Twitter at @jessonajourney and Instagram at @jessieonajourney

Wash the green figs, cut off the two ends, make one slice just through the skin, lengthwise and put in a heat proof bowl. Pour boiling water over the www.gaycationmagazine.com

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2014

www.casacupula.com

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MIAMI’S LGBT VOICE

We warmly welcome you to the LGBT Visitor Center, the proud voice of all things gay in Miami and the Beaches. We’re located in Old City Hall in the heart of South Beach at 1130 Washington Ave., Suite 100, Miami Beach, FL 33139. To plan your next vacation in fabulous Miami Beach, go to GoGayMiami.com or call us at 305/397-8914. MAR Winter Party

APR Miami Beach Gay Pride Miami Gay & Lesbian Film Festival

MAY Aqua Girl Sizzle Miami

JUN Out in the Tropics

JUL Miami Beach Bruthaz Conference

OCT Orgullo

LGBT VISITOR CENTER •1130 WASHINGTON AVENUE, 1ST FLOOR, MIAMI BEACH • GoGayMiami.com This ad made possible through the support of the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. For a complete listing of events, please visit GoGayMiami.com Additional support generously provided by:

NOV White Party


Postcards

Above & Left: San Juan Marriott Resort of the Book It! Article on page 64 by Kelsy Chauvin photo courtesy of Harman Wardani


Show off your Gaycation by sending us your photos and we might put `em here!

Above Photo Honolulu Hawaii Below Photo Kauai


Lesbians on the Loose in Lombok Through the lens of Dee Farrell & Noni Daniel

Little Lombok Island - in the shadow of big brother Bali - was named one of the best places to travel in 2014, and subsequently is now experiencing an influx of visitors from far and wide. Naturally, gay and lesbian visitors had already followed the buzz heard around Indonesia and staked a claim - as a gaycation hideaway not a hotspot. Imagine our surprise in 2013 before the travel guide recommendation when we uncovered a gay-owned luxury villas and gourmet restaurant outside of Senggigi (American owner) and gay welcoming casual restaurant and tropical bar in the heart of this main tourist village (Australian owner). As Australian-American lesbians, we felt at home instantly. But we wanted a different loop around Lombok sans tourist traps, so we elected to go exploring the four corners with a local guide. Happy Lombok Tours’ English-speaking owner offered off-the-beaten track itineraries just right for “women of a certain age.” Our ultimate destination was Rinjani National Park, known best for spectacular Rinjani volcano where intrepid travelers trek to the summit at daybreak. It rises to 12,224 ft., making it the 42

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Rinjani Photo courtesy of Qunci Villas 44

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second highest volcano in Indonesia. Now that’s transformational travel! However, our soft, jungle hiking in the foothills to one of the most stunning waterfalls in Southeast Asia was equally rewarding - and warranted a check mark on the adventure bucket list. Located at about 600m above sea level, the first waterfall is an easy 20-minute walk down, while the second waterfall is another hour’s walk upriver. The scramble-over-rocks-through-the-tropical-forest is rewarded by the beauty of the waterfall and a swim in its deep pool. It is said locally that every time you swim behind the cool waterfall of Tiu Kelep you become a year younger! We’re smiling, now young at heart. 46

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Two hours later, we were back in Senggigi, where most visitors stay. The next day we wanted to escape to a pristine surfing and swimming beach on the South Coast - a secret spot closely-guarded by surfers who have known about the breaks for many years. Rue the day Kuta, Lombok becomes like Kuta, Bali. For now, with only one five-star resort and a few villas on the edge, you can still appreciate the old village ways when you stay and eat in the heart of this tiny town. We found it a great place to have a relaxing massage and to shop for coral and pearl rings and exquisite sarongs to take home as authentic souvenirs. (While the hawkers are not too bad in Kuta, the art of haggling is expected www.gaycationmagazine.com


or you’ll pay inflated tourist prices for everything from motorscooter and surfboard hire, to your bed for the night, let alone for your coconut drink and retail therapy.) Before we arrived on the coast, we enjoyed quick stops in local villages to see handicrafts (famous for textiles and black pearl jewelry), the best of the ubiquitous temples and cultural centres (to observe daily life of cooperative farming and fishing), and to taste, of course. Eating at a local warung (family restaurant) means more than rice and green coconut water; some of the best vegetables and fresh-caught fish are slow cooked meals over an open fire by friendly women who want to practice their English speaking skills. A Journey to the Land of Dragons A trip to Lombok can include a side excursion to Flores island (by air or by boat) and further afar to Komodo National Park. My girlfriend is enamored with the legendary dragon lizard, so this adventure www.gaycationmagazine.com

is Destination Next: www.rainbowtourism. com/2014/06/journey-land-dragons My own dream list includes out-of-the-way-butworth-the-trek World Heritage Sites, so we’ll each have a reason to get there and to photograph the aggressive giants (hence the name Komodo dragons). In addition to being home to the dragons, the park provides a refuge for many other notable terrestrial species such as the orange-footed scrub fowl and the Timor deer. She’ll be tracking them through her zoom lens while I’m snorkeling in rich coral reefs with my new Aquashot camera looking for sea turtles and dugongs (sea cows, you landlovers). Story & Photos by Dee Farrell, The Rainbow Rambler. Parts of this post previously published on her Wander the Rainbow series on www.RainbowTourism.com. www.rainbowtourism.com/2014/06/stor ywander-rainbow Gaycation Magazine

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Gaycation Magazine brings the world of gay travel to your fingertips. Explore new and familiar gay destinations. Learn what to do, what to eat, and what to wear. All this information wrapped up into a magazine which brings the culture of gay travel to life.

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Submission Guidelines Editorial Features

What was I thinking?: Stories submitted by Gaycationers about crazy experiences that left them scratching their heads and opining, “What was I thinking?”

Cruising Corner: Tips and insights from cruising experts and short stories from our readers about their cruising experiences.

Book It!: Recommendations of LGBT friendly hotels and resorts that help you engage with the identity of a destination.

Feast: An in-depth exploration of a traditional local dish and how it connects tot he culture, with recipes and recommendations where to eat.

There’s This Place: Where to go next? Gaycation Magazine’s recommendations of unusual LGBT destinations off the beaten path.

Threads: The latest style trends, insights and tips from our fashion experts for the world traveler in all of us.

Postcards (Photo Section): Photos of Experiential LGBT travel moments captured by Gaycationers worldwide. Gaycationers: Photos of real LGBT travelers and explorers who have gone before you providing insights and resources which inspire you to pursue your personal travel passion.

The Wire: Brief LGBT travel news and information about new hotel/resort openings, cruise itineraries, travel planning tips, and products and services. Found It!: Short description of “must have” travel items for everyone from the novice weekender to the seasoned globetrotter.

Any articles, photos or information submitted to Gaycation Magazine become the sole property of Gaycation Magazine. The views and opinions stated throughout the magazine are not necessarily the view and opinion of Gaycation Magazine. Gaycation Magazine and its affiliates will not knowingly publish or advertise information, which is fraudulent or misleading. The Publisher reserves the right to edit, limit, revise, or reject any submission without cause. Gaycation and its affiliates assue no financial responsibility for typographical errors. If any arrors are found, please notify Gaycation Magazine immediately. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Pay rates can be found on our website. Please send images in hi-res and articles to editor@gaycationmagazine.com


There’s This Place The birthplace of Gay Travel North American style by Sherel Purcell

A 1982 Calvin Klein ad fea­tur­ing toned, tanned abs set against a white art deco roof, alerted fash­ ion pho­togra­phers to South Beach’s scenic back­ drops and exotic morn­ing light. The rebirth of gritty SoBe con­ tin­ ued through­ out the decade, thanks to the arrival of a thriv­ing gay com­mu­nity that’s expand­ing through­out Miami Beach. The ever-evolving South Beach scene wel­ comes gay and les­ bian vis­ it­ ors from around the world who flock to the rain­bow flags at 12th Street and Ocean Drive to claim their spot in the imported Bahamian sand. A pink and white board­walk sep­a­rates the beach from a long row of turquoise hotel pools as it mean­ ders through palm trees and tall grasses. Cyclists, jog­ gers and roller bladers whiz by en route to the cafés lin­ing Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue and local gay favorite, the Lin­coln Street 52

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Mall, bor­der­ing the Art Deco dis­trict. This square mile of pastel-hued restau­ rants, hotels, bars and cafes com­prises South Beach central. Reg­ u­ lar vis­ i­ tors like New Yorker, Philip Desiere, come for the annual par­ties. The grand­ daddy of these, the Novem­ber White Party, cul­ mi­nates in an all-nighter, where patrons sport­ing their skimp­i­est white out­fits parade around the 10-acre grounds of the Ital­ianate Viz­caya Museum and Gar­dens. Win­ter Party is the big draw in March and in mid-May; les­bians hit the four-day, Aqua Girl party. April com­pletes the cir­cuit with the annual Gay and Les­bian film festival. As for the best hang­outs – there are few bound­ aries. “With so many gay dol­lars float­ing around, all busi­ nesses are gay friendly”, says Desiere, who’s been com­ing here for the past three years. On Lin­coln Road, the casual bistro, Bal­ans and the Van Dyke café patio are a hit as much for the peo­ ple watch­ ing as for the food. Here too, are the leg­endary gay bars, Score and Laun­dry Bar. Nearby, MOVA, for­ merly Halo, is pop­ u­ lar with women. The eight-block out­ door pedes­ trian mall also offers good shop­ping and a chance to visit more than 50 artists’ stu­dios at the Art Cen­ter of South Florida. North of Lin­coln Road, It’s hard to miss the stark white, 16-story Delano Hotel adorned with a gawky head­dress that tow­ers over Collins Avenue. Inside, the Philip Starck indoor–out­door lobby fea­ tures long, bil­low­ing white cur­tains set against dark www.gaycationmagazine.com


wood that ush­ers tiny vis­i­tors onto an open-air patio fac­ing the Atlantic. Even if you’re not stay­ing here, stop in to the Rose Bar or Starck’s “Pool Salon” for a cuba libre or a margarita. South of the gay beach sec­ tion, at 11th and Ocean Drive, visit the Ver­sace man­sion, and the Art Deco Wel­come Cen­ter. The World Erotic Art Museum is worth a peek on nearby Wash­ing­ton Avenue. True sun wor­ ship­ pers head 11 miles north to Haulover Beach Park, Florida’s only clothingoptional 1.3-mile stretch of sand and one of her best. Most gay and les­bians hang out in sec­tions 27–29, past the North Beach Tun­nel, where the vol­ ley­ball court encour­ages min­gling. While the facil­ i­ties here are excel­lent, don’t for­get the SPF 45, as there’s no shade. www.gaycationmagazine.com

If you’re look­ing for a more exclu­sive beach, book into the Turn­berry Isle Resort and Spa, five miles north of Haulover Beach. The resort fea­tures the expanded Wil­low Spa and fitness/workout area. It’s also home to celebrity chef, Michael Mina’s only south Florida restau­rant, Bour­bon Steak. Across the street from the Turn­berry sits North Miami Beach’s answer to the Lin­coln Street Mall: 250 highend stores com­pris­ing the Aven­tura shop­ ping cen­ter where you can pick up fash­ion items from Calvin Klein, Ver­sace and Bloomingdale’s, whose mod­els upped the glam fac­tor and brought new life to Miami Beach.

Above Photo Courtesy of John M Cameron Gaycation Magazine

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Travel Planner

www.VisitFlorida.com Turnberry Isle Miami Resort www.turnberryislemiami.com 19999 W Coun­try Club Drive, Aven­tura, FL 33180 305.932.6200 Haulover Park Beach: www.miamidade.gov/parks/haulover.asp 10800 Collins Avenue, North Miami Beach 305.947.3525 Van Dyke CafÊ 846 Lin­coln Rd., Miami, FL 33139 305.532.1233 Vizcaya Museum and Gardens www.vizcayamuseum.org 3251 South Miami Avenue, Miami, FL 33129 301.250.9133

Photo Courtesy of John M Cameron

Art Deco Visitors Center www.mdpl.org 1001 Ocean Drive (10th & Ocean Drive) Miami Beach, FL 33139 305.672.2014 Aventura Mall aventuramall.com 19501 Bis­cayne Boule­vard, Aven­tura, FL 33180 305.932.7373 Balans Restaurant www.balansrestaurants.com 1022 Lin­coln Rd.,Miami, FL 33139 305.534.9191 Casa Casuarina (Ver­sace Man­sion) www.casacasuarina.com 1116 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, FL 33139 305.672.6604 Delano Hotel: www.delano-hotel.com 1685 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33139 305.672.2000

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Sherel Purcell publishes travel stories and photographs in North American magazines, newspapers and large websites including USA Today 10 best.com, Aol Travel, About.com, Dreamscapes, Halifax Herald, Canada Travel Guides, Matador, Travel and Escape, and Vacay to name a few. She has won editorial awards from Parenting Publications of America, and two Editor’s picks on Hotel Confidential. A recent travel video containing her photographs, “A New York Minute” was selected for the Smithsonian website. www.gaycationmagazine.com

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What Was I Thinking? Stories submitted by Gaycationers about crazy experiences that left them scratching their heads and opining, “What was I thinking?”

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Wait - What’s in My Taco?! by Aaron Drake

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico: city of beautiful beaches, tropical weather, caliente latin papis— and exotic cuisine? I have visited Puerto Vallarta a few times in the past and it’s always a fun time, filled with lots of time in the sun, getting spoiled at all-inclusive resorts, taking part in any number of beach activities, and of course delicious food. During my first visit to the city, I was surprised to find out that Puerto Vallarta served up more than just great Mexican food—which one would probably be disappointed not to find during a trip to Mexico—but it is really a hub for gourmet cuisine from around the world: European, Mediterranean, American (if you must), Asian and South American. So needless to say, mealtimes in Puerto Vallarta can transport your taste buds anywhere in the world. This particular visit I found myself at El Arrayán, an authentic Mexican restaurant nestled in the city’s Old Town neighborhood that borrows dishes from the surrounding regions, made with locally grown ingredients and even pulls from owner Carmen Porras’ original family recipes. I was prepared for amazing cuisine, but maybe not quite prepared for the options. This dinner I was joined by several other travel journalists from around the globe and we all had our expectations set pretty high, as we had heard it was a delicious restaurant. And of course it was, with traditional dishes like plantain empanadas, corn sopes, enchiladas, house made guacamole, spicy salsas, and margaritas made with arrayán, a sweet fruit—it was everything we could have expected. The surprise of the night came when the owner came to our table and insisted we don’t leave without trying one of the restaurant’s www.gaycationmagazine.com

specialty dishes: cricket tacos. Now, when she told us about the roasted crispy cricket tacos, I didn’t think she meant they were made with actual crickets. Sometimes in Mexico— and it’s true in many different countries—things have odd nicknames, or don’t translate completely into English so they can end up sounding funny. This was not one of those times. Yes, she meant crickets as in insects. And yes, that’s what was in the tacos. I’m not going to lie, it did sound intriguing—I mean, carpe diem, right? Though all that was playing over and over again in my mind was an episode of Survivor, where the contestants were faced with eating live insects. Well, lucky for me (if you can call it lucky), these ones were already dead. Carmen explained to us that the dish was actually a delicacy in Southern Mexico, chock-full of protein. The crickets were collected, dehydrated, and roasted in sesame seed oil until most of their legs had fallen off. Oh joy, I thought to myself. I can’t wait to try them. Everyone at the table agreed to give them a try and she went back to the kitchen to prepare us a dish. This is one of those times that it wouldn’t have been awful to stand up against peer pressure, but I must admit this ended up being a highlight of my trip to Puerto Vallarta. And when/where else would I have the opportunity to eat crickets? The plate arrived and shockingly it looked edible. Maybe even a little appetizing—and at a quick glance it looked like it could be shredded beef or pork. But make no mistake, a closer look gave away that it definitely wasn’t beef or pork. It was indeed crickets. Gaycation Magazine

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After talking myself into turning off the repeating clip of Survivor still looping in my brain, I concentrated on the task at hand. I picked up a taco and put it on my plate. Now I just needed to gather the courage to actually put it in my mouth and take a bite. Everyone else at the table slowly picked up their tacos and began to nibble. No one started convulsing, or even making faces of disgust. I guess it couldn’t be too terrible then. Reminding myself these crickets were, in fact, dead, I quickly picked up the taco and took a bite before I could talk myself out of it. The warm tortilla surrounded a rather crunchy filling that, because it was cooked in sesame seed oil, it really just felt like I was eating sesame seeds. But one bite was enough for me. Some of my colleagues were able to finish them off but I was pretty proud of myself for taking a bite. It wasn’t about to become my new favorite dish, but it was indeed a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I’d recommend to anyone who’s feeling a little adventurous. Bon appétit!

Aaron Drake is freelance travel writer based in Los Angeles. He frequently contributes to ManAboutWorld.com, Out Traveler, Amtrak Ride With Pride, and is the former editor of Frontiers magazine. When he’s not writing and traveling the globe, you can find him at the beach, at the movies, or playing with his two mischievous dogs. Follow his travels and travails on Twitter and Instagram at @theaarondrake.

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BOOK IT!

Recommendations of LGBT friendly hotels and resorts that help you engage with the identity of a destination.

Craving Condado Beach: San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino

by Kelsy Chauvin

The San Juan Marriott is located in Condado, the beachside neighborhood in Santurce, just east of historic Old San Juan on the island’s north shore. You simply won’t find a better location for a beach getaway in P.R. Just 10 minutes from Luis Muñoz International Airport, the resort is in the middle of Condado’s commercial promenade and its many restaurants, bars and shops. Upon arrival, guests are welcomed into the lofty lobby with fruity rum punch. The friendly staff will be happy to get you swiftly settled in your room. Ideally you’ll have scored an Ocean View room or suite, where you may feel like you have the entire Atlantic Ocean to yourself. But even if you’ve booked a Pool or City View room, you still get the Among the swaying palm trees and crystalblue waters of the Caribbean Sea, it’s easy to find a tropical paradise. We narrow down those great vacation choices based on an island’s size, hotel options, culture and history, and how much adventure versus simple relaxation to pursue. But LGBT travelers have more to consider than simply where to throw down their beach blankets. A seaside escape should mean comfort both in accommodations and feeling welcome. To that end, consider gay-friendly San Juan, Puerto Rico. This city of around 400,000 residents is a hotbed of tourism, thanks to factors like a busy cruise-ship terminal, convenient airport and, of course, being a United States commonwealth. And while Puerto Rico as a whole still tilts toward conservatism, the capital city happily rolls out the welcome mat for LGBT travelers—and the San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino is a top spot to soak up that easygoing Caribbean atmosphere. 60

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pleasure of a private balcony, with chairs and a table from which you can sit back and gaze across the horizon. With 525 guest rooms across the 21-story Tower and along the low-rise Cabana wing (which is generally for long-term stays and timeshares), the San Juan Marriott is a sizable resort. So it’s lovely to feel a sense of personal care and attention to detail in your spacious accommodations. Part of that luxury is thanks to the $8 million guestroom enhancement completed in late 2013. New carpeting, art, 47-inch flat screen TVs, and warm wooden details complement bright splashes of color suited to the tropical setting. Plush pillow top mattresses are just one more way you’ll succumb to total relaxation on this holiday. In-room amenities span the basics, like hair dryer, Wi-Fi (for a fee), safe, mini-refrigerator, and a desk, and you’ll get the full gamut of TV and movie channels. On-site or valet laundry, full-service concierge and tour planning, and a full room-service menu from 6 a.m. to midnight is at your disposal. Add breakfast to your daily room tally for a food-

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inclusive option. Inevitably, you’ll find yourself hankering to swim. You’re certainly in the right place, considering that both the beach and sprawling pool area are just outside the resort doors. If it’s the soft sandy beach and warm waves you crave, a beach valet will set you up with lounge chairs, towels and an umbrella, while servers from La Isla Beach bar will gladly deliver snacks and refreshments your way. On that note, don’t miss the Vintage Colada—a basic piña colada with a “floater” of Myers rum poured over it—which may represent the ultimate beach-vacay cocktail. (FYI, happy hour is from 4 to 6 p.m.) Oh, and don’t be surprised if you happen to catch a sunset wedding to up the ante of romance. Then there’s the non-sand option, where you can lounge in sun or shade beside two separate, huge swimming pools; one is shallower for the kiddies, and has a giant water slide. Here you can enjoy hydro-massages from multiple fountains, hit the hot tub, or swim up to the bar. Some travelers prefer full-service down time on their beach vacations. Others prefer a little action, so to that end there’s plenty of sporting to be done. The San Juan Marriott offers everything from beach volleyball, paddleball and tennis; to ping pong, horseshoes and table games like chess and backgammon. There’s also the Ocean Club Wellness Center, outfitted with free weights and cardio equipment. The club’s spa offers a full menu of massages, facials, reflexology, and aromatherapy. Gaycation Magazine

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On top of the beach bar, there are three resortdining options, as well as the lobby bar and lobby Coffee Merchant and Bake Shop. The Red Coral lounge on the hotel’s lower level was recently renovated, and serves well-made salads, tacos, and small plates of tostones (plantain fritters), empanadas and more. Prices are affordable, and cocktails and wine selections are impressive. For higher-end dining head to La Isla Latin Grill & Bar, where you can try fresh-catch seafood, short ribs, risotto and more off the à la carte menu, or opt for the buffet. This is also where breakfast is served, with large windows open to the beach view. The Wan Chai Noodle Bar is the wild card on the Marriott’s dining scene, serving classic Chinese entrées like chow mein, dumplings, fried rice, and lots of fresh vegetarian dishes. If you’re feeling lucky, head to the 13,000-squarefoot Stellaris Casino, home to 426 slot machines, 9 blackjack tables, 4 roulette wheels, and a halfdozen poker tables. Free gaming lessons are held nightly from 6 to 7 p.m., and the casino offers the highest betting limits in Puerto Rico.

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Recently the hotel added a new complimentary video concierge service called “U Shoot, We Share.” The service invites guests to record one minute of video on any device, email it to sanjuanmarriottresort@gmail.com, and the resort will insert your video into a “digital postcard” that you can view on YouTube and share across social media. Resort bike rentals also come with free GoPro cameras attached to helmets, to capture the real first-hand experience of Condado. The San Juan Marriott is a quick walk (via street or sand) to the rather subtle gay beach at the end of Calle Vendig, just west of the resort’s beach. Head here to chat with buff boys in Speedos and local ladies who’ll know the scoop for where the night’s best party is. Or drop by late-night (after 10 p.m. or so) to either 2 Calle Vendig, or 6 Calle Condado (one block west) to check out the local gay-bar scene—though both establishments seem to change names regularly, so be prepared to do your own investigay-tion. A few days at the San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino will deliver a dreamy Caribbean escape that may have you craving Condado for years to come. San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino 1309 Ashford Ave. San Juan, Puerto Rico 00907 (787) 722-7000 (800) 228-9290 Toll-free from USA and Canada www.marriottsanjuan.com

Kelsy Chauvin is a writer, photographer and editor based in Brooklyn, New York. She specializes in travel, feature journalism, art, theater, architecture, construction and LGBT interests. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter at @kelsycc www.gaycationmagazine.com

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Gaycationers

Meet some of the incredible people that have become part of our family of Gaycationers. They can usually be spotted pretty easily by their warm smiles and willing to help attitude when you arrive in their towns or cities. Here are just a few that we’ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so send a photo to editor@gaycationmagazine.com

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Advertising Index Here’s a list of FABULOUS people that want you to visit. So much so, they wanted to be in Gaycation Magazine! If you’re interested in reaching a fiercely loyal audience, then contact us at sales@gaycationmagazine.com. We’re sure you won’t be sorry. Atlantic Escapes

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Blue Chairs

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Maui Sunseeker Resort

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Mayan Explorer

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Come Out Travel

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Cruise Planners

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Miami LGBT Center

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Equator 38

Moose Meadow Lodge

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Floris Suite Hotel

Nuits St. Pierre

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FunMaps 49

Ogunquit Chamber of Commerce

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Gay Key West

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OutClique 13

Gay Tours Ibiza

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Outings and Adventures

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Go Out Loud

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Pink Banana Media

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Guys World Travel

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Prism Werks

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IGLTA 12

Provincetown

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Purple Roofs

7

Solution to Crossword on page 73

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MedCallAssist 74

Trip Out 80 Zenbiz Travel

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UP NEXT The Valentines Issue February 2015 Issue 13 Vegas Hotel Review Ft Worth Texas Babi Guling

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Travel series “Trip Out” Showcasing Luxurious Destinations & Events for the LGBT Community

Hosted By: Kristin R. Thomas

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