Kruger with kids: it may be wild, but it is worth it

TRAVEL

By: Duane Stacey Additional reporting by: Robyn Peverley Photos by: Robyn Peverley

A4am wake-up call; 5am meet at the airport; a two-hour flight to OR Tambo, followed by a six-hour journey to Paul Kruger Gate – all while single-handedly coping with two children, aged five and seven.

A schlep? Undoubtedly. Worth it? Absolutely.

When the opportunity presented itself to take our children to the Kruger National Park for a week, my husband was unable to get off work. I ummed and aahed for a while – all parents know that travelling alone with children can be demanding. The temptation was too great, however, and I could not pass up the opportunity for my little ones to have their first experience of animals in the wild.

So we packed our binoculars, swotted up on our Southern African animals and birds and I bought enough kid-friendly padkos to keep Hansel and Gretel in the woods for months.

After a long day’s flying and driving, we finally crossed the bridge to the Paul Kruger Gate and entered the famous game park. Although Malelane Gate is quicker to reach from OR Tambo, the Paul Kruger Gate is closer to Skukuza Rest Camp, where we would be staying.

From the bridge, we saw our first animal: A lone buffalo grazing by the river. From that moment on, Sophie and Billy were hooked. The drive from the gate to our camp in Skukuza provided plenty of opportunities to spot wild animals. An appreciation of all animals has been integral to our family from day one, but I was concerned that they would not grasp the necessity of silence when, say, surrounded by a herd of elephants or a pride of lions. Kids are adaptable, though, and unlike their older counterparts, they learn quickly!

Our first morning drive went fairly smoothly. The kids were up and about once the alarm got them going, but I learnt a keen lesson on the value of preparation: Getting kids ready for a game drive is

not too dissimilar to getting them ready for school – everything needs to be ready the night before!

With beanies donned, hot drinks in the flasks and blankets under our arms, we hopped onto the game drive vehicle (GDV – apparently, that’s what you call them if you’re cool; and the kids liked this!). Of course, impala were celebrities but, unfortunately for them (and the lilac-breasted rollers), their status was soon downgraded to, ‘Oh! another one’. But our first hyena, lounging languidly in the roadside grass after a long night’s prowling, was a source of much excitement. This was followed by hippos, crocodiles and waterbuck at a watering hole, which rounded off a very exciting morning’s viewing and set the tone for the rest of the stay.

The kids soon fell into the bush routine: Early morning game drives; a big breakfast upon return; quiet midday moments filled with books, activities and explorations of the camp; compulsory afternoon rests (the kids didn’t need to sleep, but a rest was non-negotiable, given the busy evenings ahead); game drives in the afternoon, which allowed for much excitement (and the odd sundowner for Mum); supper and quick stories before they crashed into bed.

There were many highlights for curious kids. Firstly, we saw leopards – not once, but twice, extremely close up and with no other cars to disturb us. My children were awestruck. We also saw a baby rhinoceros in the wild – a true rarity these days – as well as kudu and elephant in abundance. But the big animals weren’t the only creatures on our agenda. Incredible birds also abounded: Ground hornbills, Marshall eagles and plenty of vultures had everyone enthralled.

Typical of little kids, Sophie and Billy found that picking up their first dung beetle was just as exciting as having to reverse slowly away from a pugnacious young elephant bull.

Camping in the wilderness was also a treat: Campfire stories are made more vivid by starlight and hyena whoops do wonders for bush tales. The early bedtime gives muchneeded rest for adults and, although the thought of venturing into the wild for a night-time bathroom visit seems scary, it certainly adds to the morning’s stories!

On our last day, I allowed the kids access to a downloaded film on my iPad (the square au-pair, as I call it) while I packed up. As we drove out, my two children seemed downcast. I asked what was wrong and Sophie said, “I’m going to miss the Kruger.” It was all I needed to hear to know that I had made the right call. It is special and is most certainly worth a visit.

Luckily, a quick stop at Alzu service station off the N4 on the way to Johannesburg allowed for a last look at some beautiful animals – housed in extensive grounds at Alzu – before we returned to urbanisation and time started to speed up again.

Know before you go:

• Although more populated, the south of the park is better suited for kids. • Factor in conservation fees when planning your holiday. (SA kids: R55 per day; SADC nationals:

R110 per day and foreigners: R220 per day. Add

this to adult fees and accommodation to get a realistic idea of costs.) • The gates at the Kruger

National Park close early (the times differ, depending on the season), so give yourself enough time to get in and to your rest camp. • Pack plenty of snacks for kids – if you’re coming from Cape Town or other areas of the country, it can be a long journey. • Hot water bottles are essential in winter, as are blankets and woolly hats, for morning drives.

Insulated travel mugs are also brilliant, and rusks do wonders to stave off the hunger of little tummies needing breakfast. • In summer, pack lightweight long-sleeve tops and long pants, insect repellent and sunscreen. • Kids’ activity books are invaluable, as are games (Big 5 Top Trumps was a hit!) to while away the quieter hours between drives. • Adults: Take your reading books and drinks.

If you’re looking after sleeping kids, it can get a bit lonely, so turn the hour before bed into your special time.