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CONTENTS Fashion & Luxe

30 Top 10 Polo Events 32 Back in Black 44 Ecosse Moto 46 What’s Hot Now 53 Golden Girls

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CONTENTS People 61 Brave New World 85 Two of a Kind 106 The Renaissance Man 116 Legend of the Pearl 126 Tinsley Mortimer

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CONTENTS Travel

48 Lubéron’s Golden Triangle 68 36 Hours in Geneva 98 Venice of the North

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CONTENTS Features

72 Saddle Up 110 The Experts 124 Top 10 Art Auctions 121 Champions for Sale 128 Final image

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ED NOTE_sep09 25/09/2009 14:16 Page 22

W

hen I began working in

publishing, I quickly found that my interest lay in the world of lux-

ury, and it still fascinates me every day— the power of objects, the passion of craftsmen, and the progress that is made

The Editor’s Note

every day by some of the smartest businesspeople in the world.

In this issue, which we’ve devoted to a

an interest in the work that we do so that no matter the climate, no

look at tangible luxury, we were able to go

matter the place, no matter the person, the object retains its value.

inside some storied luxury institutions.

It is the common thread in the work of almost all of our subjects,

The house of Hermès has been a bench-

from Geoffrey Russell selling thoroughbred horses in Kentucky, to

mark for high quality craftsmanship for

the founders of Gilt Groupe, bringing high fashion to your email

more than 150 years, and we spent several

inbox, to Alistair Callender, who has designed an eco-friendly

days between New York and Paris getting

yacht that is the must-have boat of the future. Remember as you

to know the company from the ground -

flip through our pages and as you move through the world—while

up—from the shiny glass windows of the

you may not be able to take it with you, there’s something to be

rue Faubourg boutique to their CEO, who

said for enjoying the best of what’s around while we’re here. n

had to learn to saddle-stitch his own business card case before taking the reins of the North American division.

We also spoke with a man who has devoted his life to promoting the ultimate luxury heirloom—the vintage watch. Osvaldo Patrizzi has been a fixture in the watch world for more than 50 years, and just after the first anniversary of his brand new

Kate Winick Editor-in-Chief

venture, Patrizzi and Co., we sat down with him and his partner to get an inside look the auction business—but ended up exploring the true emotional connection he has to the watches he encounters instead.

As many in the luxury world know, the best way to preserve the products we love is to sell them—to create a market for and

T H O U S A N D

C L U B

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CONTRIBUTORS_aug09 25/09/2009 14:11 Page 24

Contributors

Sara Kendall Greenberg

Natalie Brandweiner

Sydney Cannon

Sara Kendall Greenberg graduated from

Though Natalie began her career as a

Her fleeting feet and studies of Philoso-

Haverford College in 2007. She currently

business writer, interviewing executives

phy have taken Sydney around the world.

teaches French at several private estab-

from a variety of industries, and still con-

The Los Angeles native now combines her

lishments in the Greater New York City

tributes to several business magazines,

wanderlust, passion for all things luxe,

area and is a candidate in the Master’s of

her understanding of the needs and de-

and love for literature to contribute to

French Language and Civilization pro-

sires of high-profile people give her

100thousand Club.

gram at New York University in Paris. She

unique insight into creating maps, lists,

also works as a freelance translator and

and feature stories that will grab her

writer. After years of jet-setting between

reader’s attention.

new York and Paris, she plans to move indefinitely to Paris in the near future.

Josh Sailor

Matt Buttell

Norimichi Inoguchi

After working in production for the better

Matt’s interests in the jet set lifestyle,

Norimichi is a skilled photographer who

part of his professional career, Josh even-

fashion, gadgets and style meld perfectly

focuses on images using movement and

tually caved into his passion for photog-

with his other writings as a business jour-

water. He is intrigued by the interaction

raphy, and hasn’t looked back since.

nalist, which also help to offer a different

of water and fashion, and incorporates

Based in New York, his portfolio is as di-

persepective to his work. Having con-

his eye for movement into unique still-

verse as his experiences, and he creates

tributed to 100thousand Club before, his

lifes. He holds a BFA in photography and

fabulous shots of people, installations,

extensive and varied ournalistic experi-

was first in his class at the International

and beautiful places around the world.

ence are a welcome return.

Center of Photography.

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CREDITS_sep09 25/09/2009 14:14 Page 26

Advertising, Marketing, and Client Services T: +44 117.921.4000

Executive Director JASON LASLETT Project Manager OWEN BURGESS Account Executives ALEX HUCHET, JULIA MONROE, SALLY-ANN RYDER, EMILY WATTS RUSSELL, NEIL MACE, TOM WALKER

Finance Director JAMIE CANTILLON HR and Personnel Manager OLIVIA REEVES

Information

Production Manager HANNAH DUFFIE Production Coordinators LAUREN HEAL, RENATA OKRAJNI

Editorial/Executive

Circulation Manager BEN KELLY

Chairman/Publisher SPENCER GREEN Director of Projects HARLAN DAVIS

Subscription Enquiries

Creative Director ANDREW HOBSON

T: +44 117.921.4000 www.100thousandclub.com

Editor-in-Chief KATE WINICK Associate Editor NATALIE BRANDWEINER

General Enquiries

Assistant Editor MATTHEW BUTTELL

info@100thousandclub.com

Online Editor JANA GRUNE Assistant to the Editor SVETANA ARAPOVA

Letters to the Editor letters@100thousandclub.com

Design Director JAMES WEST Senior Designers ZÖE BRAZIL, SARAH WILMOTT

Printer Workbrands Ltd. Ferodo House, Willway Street, Bristol

Contributing Writers

BS3 4BG, United Kingdom.

REBECCA GOOZEE, MARIE SHIELDS,

T: +44 (0) 117 9669189. E: info@workbrands.co.uk.

HUW THOMAS, BEN THOMPSON

www.workbrands.co.uk

Contributing Photographers

100 Thousand Club

JP GREENWOOD, NORIMICHI INOGUCHI,

(Vol. 3, Issue 2, Q3 2009) is published four times a year

JOSH SAILOR

by GDS Publishing.

All rights reserved. GDS Publishing, Ltd.

Designers

Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol,

MICHAEL HALL, CRYSTAL MATHER, CLIFF

BS1 4NH, UK.

NEWMAN, LIVIO BONDI, CATHERINE WILSON Legal Information The advertising and articles appearing within this publication reflect the opinions and attitudes of their respective authors and not necessarily those of the publisher or editors. We are not to be held accountable for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or photographs. All material within this magazine is © 2009 100Thousand Club.

Head Office GDS International Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol, BS1 4NH, UK. T: +44 117 921 4000. F: +44 117 926 7444.

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TOP 10 POLO EVENTS & CLUBS

Events

Clubs

Veuve Clicquot Manhattan Polo Cup

International Polo Club

One of the most prestigious polo events in the world and a favorite of the royals, this year’s guest list included His Royal Highness Prince Henry and Prince Seeiso, who, attended all the way from Lesotho, as well as the bevy of other celebrities. The Cup is played on Governor’s Island, just south of Manhattan, with the 2008 Cup marking polo’s return to Governor’s Island. The importance of the Cup can not be overstated enough: It is one of the social event highlights of the year among all social sets, not just those who play and enjoy polo.

When discussing the best of the best in terms of polo clubs, the IPC is a perennial favorite. Located in sunny south Florida, the club is a great venue for enjoying polo year round, which is what makes the club so popular. Membership is extremely exclusive and brings tremendous perks, such as access to Mallet Grille, the club’s grounds, which is both renowned and only open to club members.

El Dorado Polo Club

Congruent with the Manhattan Polo Cup, the Ivy Cup occurs during late May in Greenwich, Connecticut. The Ivy Cup Party is where the event commences the night before, with ample time for socializing among the Cup’s exclusive crowd. Players in the cup are alumni of five of the biggest Ivy League schools, and the event is hosted at the historic and magnificent Hillcrest Estate.

Attendance requires a $100 donation, with donations going towards charities helping children’s needs.

Located in La Quinta, California, the club is beloved as a venue for year round polo playing. Polo in the middle of the desert may not necessarily sound incredibly appetizing, but the El Dorado certainly delivers, and the City of Gold moniker is definitely applicable when describing the club and surrounding terrain. When the sun rises in the East, the surrounding landscape takes on a golden look, despite the club’s manicured lawns are as fresh and green as the ponies could desire. Close to both Los Angeles and Palm Springs, the club provides an ideal setting for all Southern California polo enthusiasts.

Mercedes Benz Championship

Santa Barbara Polo Club

A-listers abound at this event, which occurs at the Bridgehampton Polo Club during the dog days of summer every year. Providing a great reason to escape the city (whether it’s New York or Chicago, the championship draws attendees from all over the country), the event lasts for six Saturdays in a row. Past attendees include Brooke Shields and Steven Spielberg, showing the draw of the event; the cream of Manhattan’s society is always in attendance. Despite the VIP scene general admission tickets are actually open to anyone, which makes the event great for a simple weekend foray into the Hamptons.

Another Southern California polo club, the SBPC plays host to several prominent events throughout the year, including the US Polo Association’s America Cup. The club is one of the oldest in the US, having been established in 1911, and continuing a tradition of excellence since. Although the club is exclusive, they specify that at its core, polo is a family sport, keeping the club somewhat down to earth compared to the IPC. At one point in the club’s history, developers were on the verge of turning the club into subdivisions, but luckily several wealthy sponsors who purchased the club transferred ownership to the state, which guarantees this historic venue is here to stay.

Ivy Cup

Land Rover America’s Polo Cup This is a dual event, with the championship planned for June of 2010 and a Classic planned for this September. The setting of the Classic could not be better; the event takes place on the National Mall in Washington, D.C. The Fall Classic will take place simultaneously with a “taste of India”, as the upcoming championship match in June of 2010 will be between the teams of India and the United States. This is one of the top events for true fans to attend.

US Open Polo Championship Hosted every April at the International Polo Club in Wellington, Florida, the championship is an intensely competitive event. Despite its multiple venues throughout its century long history, the International Polo Club has hosted the event since 2004, providing a remarkable setting for an extraordinary event.

Will Rogers Polo Club If you’re in the Los Angeles area and need a more immediate fix for your polo needs, the WRPC is your spot. Like the SBPC, the Will Rogers has been placed under ownership of the state, which ensures polo will never leave its grounds. Unlike the SBPC, the Will Rogers is located in the heart of Los Angeles County and the proximity of the club to Beverly Hills is definitely a plus. A morning match of polo followed by a jaunt over to Rodeo Drive for afternoon shopping and dining is completely feasible. The club also plays host to several charity events throughout the year; events this year include a benefit for the Assistance League of Southern California and a benefit for Promises Foundation.

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EVENTS POLO viz4:31July

PRODUCTS_SEP09 25/09/2009 14:42 Page 32

BACKINBLACK

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Men’s jewellery is at its best when it’s strong, stylish and polished to a shine. David Yurman and John Hardy have maintained excellent men’s collections for years, and some of their most popular pieces are always done in classic black and silver.

From left to right: Men’s Naga Siler Link Large bracelet and Raja Silver Extra-Large bracelet, and Men’s Macan Silver Band Ring.

John Hardy. Visit www.johnhardy.com or 888.838.3022.

Black Scarab Ring, 3-Sided Chevron Pave Ring, Rectangle Pave Ring, and 3-Sided Carved Inlay Chevron Ring.

David Yurman. Available at www.davidyurman.com or 877.908.1177.

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BACKINBLACK

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Just some of our favourite things – whether it’s an accent piece, or the main event, from a major-label or an upand-comer, you can’t go wrong with sleek, black accessories on your person, or on your dresser.

From left to right: Fragrance. Tom Ford. Visit www.tomford.com. Cufflinks.

Jan Leslie. Available at www.janleslie.net. 212.679.5337.

Sunglasses. Bulgari. Available at www.bulgari.com.

800.285.4274. Button Cufflinks. Rotenier. Available at www.robinrotenier.com. 212.768.1117.

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BACKINBLACK

The latest from the clever folks at Research In Motion, the Curve 8250, known as the Blackberry Gemini, is a radical new design with dedicated media buttons and a clear, dynamic interface. If you’re not already a Blackberry addict, this will be the device that converts you.

Blackberry Curve 8250. Blackberry. Available at www.tmobile.com. 800.866.2453.

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BACKINBLACK

Barker Black was founded as the modern alternative to men’s shoes and accessories. With their sleek design and time-tested construction (handmade since 1880), and the subtle details like the crowned skull and crossbones logo adorning this pair of classic monk straps, they offer the finest in subversive sophistication.

Euston Monk Strap Shoes. Barker Black. Available at www.barkerblack.com. 212.966.2166

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BACKINBLACK

For the ultimate resource for all things inhalable, the venerable firm of Davidoff is our destination of choice. Pair S.T. Dupont’s classic lighter with the stylish case of your choice to impress any lucky soul with whom you choose to share your sticks.

Ligne Two Lighter. S.T. Dupont. Available at www.davidoffmadison.com or 212.751.9060.

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We don’t believe in leather jackets from fey high-fashion brands – it’s the opposite of what a motorcycle jacket is all about. For maximum style, durability and authenticity, we go to Belstaff, making great-looking technical outerwear since 1924.

Original 50 Jacket. Belstaff. Available at www.belstaff.com. info@belstaff.com.

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BACKINBLACK

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A. Lange & Söhne, originally founded in 1845 by Adolf Lange in Glashütte, has survived two world wars and countless fads to see Adolf’s great grandson reopen the company in 1990, and bring back the quality of the original Lange pocket watches. All parts, movements and tools that the watchmakers use are made in their factory, making it a true classic German luxury watch.

Left, Grand Saxonia Automatik. Right, Little Lange 1 Moonphase Soiree. A Langhe& Sohne.

Visit www.alange-soehne.com.

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T

he makers of Ecosse custom

motorcycles, Don and Wendy Atchison, build their bikes to be the best. Their three models, the Heretic, the Iconoclast

and the Titanium series together explain the attitude that their bikes embody – and now, you can carry that attitude and power on your wrist. In the age-old tradition of pairing machines that growl with machines that tick, Ecosse has designed a watch that looks straight off the bike – the deep titanium casing and large, open face is like a glimpse inside one of their engines – and those engines aren’t fooling around.

Ecosse Moto

Based just outside of Denver, Ecosse Moto

speed. His first model, the Heretic, was so

tail and functionality. The Titanium Series has

Works hand-builds each of their machines

named because he threw off the strictures of

a truly distinctive look, even beyond the cus-

from the ground up, to the exact specifications

traditional design and classification to create

tomized nature of the Ecosse concept: the

of their owners. Open only to those who have

something new and very exciting. The re-

laser-cut logo badge, machined covers and fil-

made a deposit, their various high-profile en-

sponse from those in the motorcycle world was

ters, a telescoping kickstand and an intricately

thusiasts fly in to choose their model, colors,

tremendous, commending the attention to de-

designed upper tree are working embellish-

finishes, and to be measured and fitted for their

tail that made the bike an uncompromising vi-

ments that add a whole lot of look.

particular body type and riding position. The

sual and riding experience, combining the best

Therefore, it’s not that surprising that this

company’s founder arrived at his design after a

elements of sport bikes and cruisers for the ul-

was the bike that inspired the watch: the lim-

lifetime of riding: a dirt bike racer in his youth,

timate in comfort, speed, and style. Given

ited edition watch, made in partnership with

he began riding Harley-Davidsons as an adult,

these proclivities, it’s no wonder that as the

French brand BRM, who is famed for doing

and was frustrated by the compromises he was

company grew and expanded, the newest mod-

these partnerships, is substantial yet stream-

forced to make between comfort, style and

els continued to build on that attention to de-

lined, matching the titanium finish on the bike exactly. The sporty black rubber band is stitched in the same pattern as the soft leather seats of the bicycle, and the massive 48mm bezel looks plucked straight from the instrument panel. A lifelong watch enthusiast, the President, Designer and Chief Engineer Atchison is still as invested in every aspect of his work as he’s ever been. He rides every one of the bikes and tries to personally deliver each finished motorcycle. “An extreme focus on customers is part of our mantra. I go over the bike with each new customer and they are given my cell phone number to contact me directly with any question – no matter how insignificant they think it might be. I want the Ecosse to truly be their go-to bike of choice.” n

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W H A T ' S H O T N O W : M U S T- T R Y N E I G H B O R H O O D S

Portland, Pearl District Up and coming designers have flocked to the area and besides the unique local fashions, staples such as Diesel can also be found. Don’t come here for chains though, as individuality is what Portland is all about; Powell’s Books, the world’s largest independently run bookstore, is a must-see for all visitors. The local cuisine is also spectacular and Bay 13, one of the area’s newer restaurants, offers some of the best seafood in the Pacific Northwest.

The Distillery District, Toronto Following a major refurbishment project, this is the place to be in Toronto. The largest preserved area of Victorian industrial architecture in North America features an incredible art scene, primarily showcasing Canada’s homegrown artists. The neighborhood is pedestrian only which gives it a very European vibe, and the conversion of the Gooderman and Worts distillery has given the galleries and shops of the area a very unique home.

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires Buenos Aires also has spectacular shopping and dining options. Street fairs occur every weekend where you can pick up the wares of local designers, but the dining options are what’s best; try Casa Cruz, the best restaurant in the city, where the rabbit medallions are matched only by the duck comfit. Teeming with cultural institutions, the Evita Peron museum is a neighborhood highlight.

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Madrid, Malasana The Plaza del Dos de Mayo is the historical heart of this vibrant center, a mix of nightlife venues and restaurants that make the plaza a great place to spend the day before hitting up the clubs. The historic architecture contrasts with the throngs of trendy youths who have been congregating here for years. For history buffs, the Conde Duque barracks offer an escape into the storied past of the neighborhood.

Harajuku, Tokyo

Istanbul, Nisantasi The beating of Istanbul’s cultural heart can be heard quite clearly well through the night. While Nisantasi does have a vibrant nightlife scene, the shopping takes the cake, as the area is home to Abdi pekçi Street, the premier retail street in Istanbul.

Besides designer staples such as Max Mara and Escada on the streets, the City’s Nisantasi mall offers more casual brands, from D&G to Jean Paul Gaultier.

The heart of Japan’s youth culture is extremely diverse, with hipsters of all styles gathering here every Sunday.

Home to the best shopping between Hong Kong and Beverly Hills, with most luxury brands as well as home-grown designers represented, the area is also close to the Meiji Shrine, which offers a serene escape in the heart of Tokyo.

Sydney, The Rocks A former slum has been transformed into a hotbed of activity, home to many of Sydney’s most well known and historic pubs. Besides the active nightlife scene which has been going on for well over a century, the neighborhood plays host to The Rocks Market each weekend which is a great place to see the local crafts of Sydney.

Located close to the main tourist drag of Circular Quay, the neighborhood is great for a nighttime (or daytime) taste of the city.

W H A T ' S H O T N O W : M U S T- T R Y N E I G H B O R H O O D S

Maps:31July

Luxury in the

Lubéron’s Golden Triangle

By Sara Kendall Greenberg

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P

aris was again a city of pilgrims. Its residents made their late July exodus as tourists poured in for their ritual summer worship. Parisians, after all, do not live in Paris in August; they can be found sunning off the coast of Corsica, at their country or summer homes, or at a café near the tranquil West Village

apartment they rent for the month. After living for enough time in Paris, or in any city, one occasionally longs for a more bucolic respite, escaping, if only briefly, the urban trappings of crowded métros, tourist maps and fanny packs. My petit ami and I decided it was, indeed, time for a holiday. Following suit of our jet-setting neighbors, we swapped our leather motorbike jackets for the leather seats of his Porsche and sped away from the chic Left Bank. And like characters from a Peter Mayle novel, we headed south for a romantic weekend in Provence’s little gem, the Triangle d’Or.

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Provence, the south-easternmost region in France, is a destination for travelers seeking picturesque landscapes in a relaxing Mediterranean climate. With its dusty peaks and verdant hollows, Roman ruins and medieval edifices, its lavender fields, expansive vineyards, artisan soaps, honeys and olive oils, Provence evokes a Gallic Tuscany, fused with Southern simplicity: therapeutic and exotic. It is the land of pétanque; of painters such as Cézanne, van Gogh and Renoir; of cicada song and pastis. But despite the charms that make it worthy of a visit, the heart of Provence remains undiscovered by most.

Many travelers in search of a vacation to Provence take the threehour TGV from Paris to Avignon or Aix-en-Provence. Traveling by train is time-efficient, but it leaves visitors stranded once they have arrived.

visitor typically encounters in Provence. It is only a short drive, around

The lack of public transportation between villages leaves few options for

50 km, from Avignon or Aix and about 90 km from Marseilles. Al-

adventure and often discourages tourists to explore much further than

though a more distant drive from Nice, it is nonetheless a thrilling 250

these larger cities. Avignon and Aix may be filled with architectural

km travel through a setting worthy of a James Bond film. The Triangle

wonders, medieval history and Provençal cuisine, but they are also very

d’Or, whose name evokes both the natural and financial wealth of the

commercial, polluting these rural wonders with a less authentic feel. Ad-

region, is situated in the department of the Vaucluse and lies among the

ditionally, they are but two of countless Provençal towns to discover.

most breathtaking summits of the Lubéron. It comprises Bonnieux and

Renting a car is the best way to do a comprehensive tour of Provence.

Lacoste, two medieval stone villages perched on rocky adjacent hills;

For those who have never driven through Europe, this may seem like

Goult, whose ancient windmill dominates its verdant hilltop; Ménérbes,

an intimidating feat. However, the task is easily surmounted with a bit

the setting of Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence; Roussillon, Oppède

of savoir-faire. I recommend either renting a car in Paris or flying into

and Gordes. Each of these towns is only a few kilometers’ drive from

Marseilles or Nice; in these three areas, luxury and exotic car rental

the next and all are worth a visit, if not a prolonged stay; they offer me-

services are provided by top-of-the-line companies specializing in

dieval charm and an authentic, tiny-village feel. Among these hamlets,

English-speaking clientele. The vehicles are equipped with de rigueur

Gordes (our destination, although we did not know it at the time) has

GPS technology, allowing one to navigate highway routes or to opt for

the most exclusive and expansive views of the Lubéron.

the winding, local ones. It is a vital resource for locating gas stations,

From Paris, we traversed France in a day, passing Dijon and Lyon

dining areas, rest stops and other basic needs. With English-speaking

and finding a place to rest where the air got warm, in Orange. We spent

service and a personal, albeit automated tour guide, driving in France

the entirety of the following day indulging in the specialties only this

no longer seems so foreign.

corner of France can offer. We stopped between many towns in the Vaucluse before reaching Gordes: at Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, where at

Hotels

eleven o’clock in the morning the vineyard had been sampling its de-

La Bastide de Gordes Gordes +33 4 90 72 12 12 Les Bories & Spa Gordes +33 4 90 72 00 51 Le Mas des Herbes Blanches Gordes +33 4 90 05 79 79

licious aged red wines for hours; then down toward Isle-sur-Sorgue, where the second largest antique market in France (next to Paris’ St-Ouen market) lures an eclectic mix of brocanteurs, passersby and serious collectors to its thirty-something antique stores. Leaving the

By car, one is able to circumvent the popular areas crowded by the

sports car in a nearby lot, we ascended the ancient cobblestone hill of

numerous tourists brought in by the TGV on any given day. One can

Oppède-le-Vieux on foot. We hiked past deserted, cavernous houses

scale and descend the deserted, sinuous roads that connect village to

and the ruins of a château and a church, where one has an unobstructed

village or visit vineyards and the villas where the region’s delicious

panoramic view of Mont Ventoux, the Cévennes and the bluish peaks of

lifeblood can be sampled. Come nightfall, one can gain access to the

the Alpilles. In Lacoste we scaled the narrow footpath that leads to the

hidden, luxurious hotels and private residences for rent that boasts un-

Marquis de Sade’s old château and gazed across the lush valley to the

believable views of the region.

steepled church of Bonnieux. Much to our surprise, all of these towns

Virtually inaccessible by public means, the Triangle d’Or, or Golden Triangle of the Lubéron is antithetical to what the unpracticed

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were nearly devoid of any tourist life. These Provençal villages offered a delicious respite from summer crowds.

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We made a last-minute decision to cancel our hotel in Aix, which was decorated with stars but lacking the true Provençal charm we had now discovered. We sifted through the Michelin France 2009 Guide (a must for high-end travel in France) in search of a chic hotel restaurant outside of Aix. We found ourselves intrigued by Gordes. Neither of us had even heard of this medieval hamlet, despite a lifetime of extensive traveling, his posh education and my keen Francophilia, but upon high recommendation we elected to stay at the Bastide de Gordes, one among several luxury four-star hotels in the town.

Forming the top of the Golden Triangle, the magnificent stone-andterracotta village of Gordes is carved high into the rocky hillside, overlooking the Alpilles. Built in the sixteenth century, the Bastide de Gordes incarnates the crème-de-la-crème of Provençal luxury with its enormous suites, shaded terraces and aqua-marine pool giving way to the valleys of the Coulon and Cavalon below, Jacques Mazet’s deluxe spa (featuring a meditation room, chromatic pool, solarium, hammam and herbal tea room), a wine cave and a distinctive gastronomic restaurant open for lunch and dinner. A private parking lot behind the Bastide is also available to guests, where purring exotic cars are cared for by valet service.

Upon entering the hotel I was overcome with the exquisite view from the lobby’s glass panes. The sun shone hot and dry and it smelled like citrus fruit; my heart shuddered with delight. We were escorted to our suite, which consisted of walking down spiral stairways and through the cool stone hallway by the wine cave. I tossed my suitcase on the

crisp. September marks the debut of the wine harvest in every village, a

enormous bed, changed into a bathing suit and sauntered to the pool.

colorful fête of the plentiful new grapes and their vintage ancestors. The

We hung about the side of the pool, devouring cocktails, fresh olives

celebrations continue throughout October, as olive markets and autumn

and nuts. The valleys looked like infinity. It was still warm when the

festivals set up tent, as has been tradition for centuries. November is

sun set that evening and I had never felt more peaceful at that moment.

rife with chestnut festivals and truffle markets as the mistral’s windy

After a four-course meal, with two delicious bottles of white wine and

overture hints at the first few notes of December’s chilly song. Autumn,

a cheese cart the size of a table for four, we retired to our spacious,

the growing season in Provence, renders local gourmet foods and wine

tastefully decorated suite for some much-needed sleep.

in delicious abundance, paired with a robust air of conviviality.

I have never encountered a place that engendered more lavish-

It would be impossible to replicate the luxury of the Provençal in any

ness or romance than these dusty, rural villages of Provence. It was

other corner of the earth. If you have never experienced a vacation here,

in Gordes, one of Provence’s best-kept secrets, that I experienced the

it is well worth renting a car and mapping out a similar tour of the Vau-

ultimate luxury: true relaxation.

cluse yourself. Along the way, take advantage of the wine tastings, the

My festival weekend in Provence proved that July and August do

rare antiques, the beautiful properties and the spectacular panoramas,

not always mean large crowds of tourists, yet it would be misleading

argued to be the most beautiful in all of France. A tour of this region is

to say that the Lubéron remains desolate throughout the summer. This

highly recommended in all seasons for the curious, romantic adventurer

sojourn is perhaps most splendid in autumn, when the air is warm and

with a generous budget, seeking extravagance and authenticity.

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Golden girls What do you call a blonde duo hailing from their respective worlds of Silicon Valley and luxury retail, both armed with Harvard MBA’s? Lethal is what first comes to mind, but Gilt Groupe is the name they chose. Referencing the term gold and a play on “guilty pleasure”, they further explain their chosen name: “Gold is timeless and beautiful, like the fashions we sell.”

Longtime friends Alexis Maybank and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson met in Portuguese class while attending Harvard Business School. Maybank, a former member of eBay’s startup team, then followed the path to Silicon Valley and became AOL’s general manager. Wilson was “very much entrenched in the luxury goods industry”, having worked as an operations manager at Bulgari and Louis Vuitton. But they reunited with the birth of their brainy project, which launched and became a reality in November of 2007.

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The well-poised pair, now in their mid-thirties, were regulars on the overpopulated sample sale scene in New York. Wilson recalls one sale in particular: “We were getting bombarded with calls, emails and requests from friends and family asking us to potentially buy something for them if it was the right piece at the right price. We both thought how funny it was because a lot of these people were even based in New York. They just couldn’t be bothered in the middle of the day to go [shopping].” Despite the allure of a $5,000 Marchesa dressed that’s marked down to a mere $300, sample sales come with much more baggage that sometimes repels even the most skilled deal hunters. Like any sharp brains with business savvy, Maybank and Wilson envisioned an opportunity for success in the midst of sartorial mayhem. “We thought this would really be a great type of business model to bring online and to give so many people access to these sort of insider fashion shopping events.” However, just as important as accessibility was the perfect balance of exclusivity and convenience – two factors that have largely contributed to the now multi million dollar enterprise.

“From the beginning we thought it made sense to open up our membership across the United States.

There are so many cities that love fashion brands and we thought it made sense for the whole country and even more so for parts of the countries that don’t have access to great products and great stores.” However an air of exclusivity that matches the high-end brands on their site strictly tempers their generous spirit. The members-only policy requires that an existing Gilt Groupe member invite you into the club in order to snatch designer duds that boast almost unbelievable discounts (usually hovering around 70 percemt). And, explains Wilson, “They only last 36 hours so the merchandise is literally up on our site, available to our members, and then it’s like it disappears and the brands really respond well to that sort of speed.”

Leave it to Wilson, head of merchandising, to break through the almost impenetrable wall between fashion powerhouses and ecommerce sites, especially discount sites, which are avoided by haute designers for fear of soiling their image. “We go to great lengths to make sure that we photograph every collection the way Rachel Roy classics, Audrey slacks

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a brand wants it to be photographed. So we use models,

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we have stylists, and hair and makeup people who can

tuitive. While the ladies never disclose their profits, they

really transform a brand’s creative vision appropriately

gladly exclaim, “We’ve certainly been on an upward tra-

and respectfully to our customer base. That’s something

jectory since we launched. Every month is stronger than

that we invest very heavily in and we’ve been happily

the month before, every quarter is stronger than the quar-

surprised; brands that I never expected would consider

ter before.” What began as an eight person project with

selling to us have been so pleased with how we portray

Alexis as CEO and Maybank as Merchandiser has grown to

merchandise, who our members are and how we really pro-

command two large office floors holding 200 employees

tect brands.”

with separate buying departments for jewelry, men’s,

Both women, perfectly groomed and mannered, agree that spending money in all the right places is key.

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women’s ready to wear team, women’s accessories, beauty, home décor and kids.

Alexandra admits, “I haven’t paid full price for anything

“In the beginning I did all of that,” she explains,

in almost two years. I guess the only thing I do pay full

“but we’ve grown so quickly I couldn’t possible do that

price on is wedding gifts. [And] jewelry is probably my

for 30 sales a week.” Now hosting roughly 1.5 million

biggest splurge.” They’ve also discovered that their male

members, the trailblazers show no signs of slowing

members shop in a surprisingly clever way. Wilson ex-

down. On August 12th, Gilt Fuse launched, a site fea-

plains, “If [men] like something they’ll buy it in multiple

turing designers with lower price points for the younger

colors, which makes sense. The same sweater in multiple

but still impeccably put-together gal, with a tighter

colors – it’s just something we see less of with women.

budget. Topping it all off is the newest project Gilt

Men actually start purchasing on our site must faster on

Travel, a travel website that Maybank and Wilson insist

average than our women do. Once they join, they start

its members will be really excited to see. Jetsetter is

making their first purchase many weeks before a typical

modeled after the already well-loved Gilt fashion site,

female customer will.”

but instead it offers plush getaway packages at dis-

Not only is the brilliance of bargain e-luxury one that

count prices. Home, fashion and travel; Gilt Groupe

is here to stay but also its presence during this economic

branded a one-stop shop for luxury living, albeit at a

climate has been what Alexandra describes as counterin-

fraction of the cost.

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Alistair Callender is opening up the horizons of luxury yachting

Brave

New World

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W

hen a lifelong sailor and lover of boats

always been determined to be in that minority.” He spends his days on

applies their talents to the creation of

a combination of computer-based CAD modeling work, sketch develop-

boats, it’s no surprise that the result em-

ment work and tangible model making. “I currently work from home,

bodies the kind of creative thinking and

which enables me to work far more productively as no time is wasted

innate rightness of being that exists only

commuting. In recent weeks my design day would finish on average at

in truly important technology. As the

about 2 or 3am, then up again for the next day of creating somebody’s

yacht business faces tough times and the world faces tough questions

dream. Long hours, but I thoroughly enjoy it. The personal sense of sat-

about our use of fuel, he’s taken his innovative mind and applied it to

isfaction I get at the end of a project, when I have seen my design cre-

where these question intersects in the world of yachting and created So-

ations completed and in production is unbelievable.”

liloquy, the world’s first green megayacht.

Callender’s career on the water began early, growing up 300 meters from his local sailing club on the south coast of England. “For as long as I can remember, I have been around boats and the water. I was four when I first took the helm of my father’s sailing dinghy.” One of his fondest sailing memories is also one of his earliest, he reminisces; “I was sailing down to the mouth of Chichester Harbour with my family in our sailing dinghy. I couldn’t believe the true feeling of adventure – landing on this ‘remote’ and ‘secluded’ beach. It was my very own Swallows and Amazons adventure. Apparently I fell asleep on the anchor on the return journey later that day – due to the incredibly relaxing sound of lapping water to the bow of the boat – it is so therapeutic.”

He started seriously considering making his hobby his career when at 16, he heard a talk given at his school by Andrew Winch, the worldrenowned super-yacht designer. “I knew there and then it was my ideal career path to take – I have been hooked ever since.” He ended up getting valuable work experience at the Andrew Winch Designs office in London, and began his formal education at Coventry University. Whilst only a student, Callender was the only one selected out of 150 others in the course for a six month professional enhancement placement; in his case, in Plymouth, United Kingdom, to work alongside the design team at Princess Yachts International. He has since continued his relationship with the company and has several of his designs for them currently in production. “Very few people are lucky enough to work in an industry they are passionate about,” he says, “I have

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T H E R E ’ S N O B E T T E R P L A C E T O H I D E AWAY FROM THE REST OF THE WORLD.

Take sanctuary beside the Pacific F O R R E S E RVAT I O N S C A L L Y O U R T R AV E L C O N S U LTA N T, C O N TA C T F O U R S E A S O N S AT 1 - 8 0 0 - 3 3 2 - 3 4 4 2 I N T H E U . S .

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later into the design process. “ This is particularly important if you want to achieve an eco-friendly design, as with Soliloquy. “My generation is passionate about the planet; fortunately I’m also passionate about superyachts,” he says. “I have always been inspired by one of my sailing heros’ conservation work, the late Sir Peter Blake. I could not forgive myself if I did such a radical superyacht design to push the future boundaries of yacht design without considering, in every possible way, the impact that my design will have on the planet. This was why I then approached Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd, their technology seemed to perfectly match my green, rigid-wing design concept proposal.”

The simple explanation of the technology that powers this 190-foot (58m) motor-sailor is that, through the patented technology of Solar Sailor Holdings Limited, this eco-luxurious superyacht will be propelled from wind, solar and hybrid marine power (HMP) technology. The vessel can be sailed from only the wind, and/or a combination of her stored electric energy to run the electric motors. Her speed is competitive to other relative vessels, but with the capability to be zero-emissions. As Callender sees it, the advantages of green technology are limitless. He has followed the development of this technology for many years, and while researching his rigid-wing superyacht design, came across Solar Sailor Holdings. “It was the perfect application to my superyacht design. The slightly greater initial investment more than makes up in savings thanks to the numerous advantages the technology can bring.

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His inspirations for his designs vary widely; he says, “I like to try to

These include lower levels of vibration, minimal noise, reduced running

find new solutions and innovations with every new project I begin. I

costs, added resale value, and of course, the invaluable benefit of zero-

wouldn’t like to pin myself into a particular bracket of design style. This

emissions, compliant technology. “A future owner has the opportunity

is because each new brief and client will require a new approach, and I

to invest in a superyacht that causes minimal harm to the environment

can adapt accordingly, to ensure their personal dreams and desires are

and has a holistic, carefully managed design approach. That will turn

created.” In the case of his design for Soliloquy, The ‘Super-Green Su-

heads and make a positive statement about them as an owner, in a way

peryacht’ was strongly influenced by the design of the Rotating Tower,

no other vessel can.”

currently under construction in Dubai. “The ever-changing forms, and

Of course, with a top-of-the-line superyacht, it’s not a boat where

beautiful aesthetic, emotional connection was my main inspiration.”

you can skimp on the details. Balancing the desire for luxury with the

Something he feels many consumers don’t know about the design process

need for sustainability was a challenge that depended on creative sourc-

is the holistic manner in which it is approached. “To achieve a well re-

ing and being open to trying new materials and products. “Luxury takes

solved end solution, every aspect of the brief and objectives have to be

many forms, and research shows it is relative and individual to each of

100 percent understood, from the outset, rather than considering things

us. Through the innovative design of numerous features onboard Solilo-

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quy, I hope to exceed people’s expectations,” Callender says. “The key

for harnessing the 'power of nature'. Those are people that want to be

criteria to achieve the required sustainable stance, was to ensure all ma-

leaders in state-of-the-art technology, or to help make a difference to the

terials and construction techniques were selected to be supportive of the

future of the industry, whilst they can also minimize their carbon foot-

brief. More and more firms today specialize in having luxurious and eco-

print. Soliloquy might initially be for the client that wants to be the

friendly products. Therefore, this brings the opportunity to carefully se-

first to own a radical superyacht design, perhaps simply because they

lect materials that are both eco-friendly and also provide its user with the sense of luxury that is expected on a superyacht.

It was said at the announcement of the projects that Soliloquy was originally intended for “an owner of an eco-friendly stance, with a non-sailing background”. The vision of the ultimate user of the boat is not been exclusive to these criteria, but it did initially form the basis for the brief, he says. “These

“I wanted to design not only an environmentally green superyacht, but an innovative design solution that provides an attractive, elegant and highly desirable vessel that many people would like to experience”

points are still valid, but do not exclude those outside of these areas by any means. In fact, the numerous advantages will appeal to owners of numerous desires.” The

can, as well as clients who just want to experience something revo-

radical, architecturally dynamic form, with her ever-evolving super-

lutionary, whilst in the knowledge they are being eco-friendly.”

structure is truly innovative; something Callender believes will appeal

At this stage of the project, Callender Designs is still in talks

to numerous potential investors. “I wanted to design not only an envi-

with different yards and naval architects and has not begun produc-

ronmentally green superyacht, but have also tried throughout the process

tion, but interested parties are encouraged to, and have already been,

to achieve an innovative design solution that provides an attractive, el-

getting in touch with the designers. They expect these finer details to

egant and highly desirable vessel that many people would like to expe-

be influenced by the client involved. Callender firmly believes that

rience.” As to his ultimate buyer, he says, “I believe Soliloquy will be

there are buyers out there – “information available shows that his-

attractive to many high net-worth individuals that see the true potential

torically the superyacht industry has been one of the least affected by

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the financial climate, where new builds remain buoyant even during times of recession.”

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This recent university graduate plans to spend his immediate future on the circuit, giving various speeches on Soliloquy – the first will be in

He expects that overall the direction in which he is going with So-

Majorca this June, at the fourth annual Future of Superyachts Confer-

liloquy reflects larger trends in the yachting world that will develop over

ence. “Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd. and I will be promoting Soliloquy’s de-

the next few years. “We shall see more efficient hull design, and inno-

sign and technical innovations at various yachting events in the coming

vative methods using renewable energy and propulsion,” within the next

months.” He also hopes to continue his own sailing career: “I have been

five to 10 years, he predicts. The green mentality provides an unexpected

passionate about sailing for as long as I can remember, so I would wel-

perk for those who worry they might be compromising the impressiveness

come the chance to sail to the most remote and idyllic parts of the world.

of their boats: “I think the average size of private luxury yachts will con-

I hear the Pacific and New Zealand islands are stunning. This, I think,

tinue to gradually increase in size. Interestingly, the larger the design So-

would be a wonderful place to visit. I am fascinated by visiting new parts

liloquy becomes, the more beneficial and efficient she becomes: thanks

of the globe and I always enjoy experiencing new cultures.” Like many

to the scale effect of harnessing renewable energy and also hull length

sailors, Callender has a philosophical side to him, which has provided

ratios.”

the finishing touch to this project. After considerable time and thought,

Harnessing free, renewable energies, that are plentiful in the areas

he decided that ‘Soliloquy’ was ideal name for super-green superyacht.

of the world that these yacht often frequent, will mean the running costs

“The syllable ‘sol’ in Latin means sun, which is one of Soliloquy’s main

will reduce, along with the other benefits that will all will be attractive

forms of clean and free propulsion,” he says. “Also, a soliloquy in a

to future investors, in turn pushing more yachts in this design direction.

Shakespearean play is when a character divulges his or her innermost

“Rigid-wing technology is certainly the future of efficient sailing propul-

thoughts, and deepest desires and beliefs to the world. In this same vein,

sion,” he says, and Soliloquy is the first to apply such a rig to be incor-

this yacht is the character that will tell the world that you no longer have

porated within the superyacht industry.

to design highly polluting luxurious vessels.”

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So you’ve been skiing in the Alps, and to you, Geneva is just a sea-level depression between the vastly more interesting mountains. This crossroads at the center of Europe is used to people just passing through, but we decided to stay a little while, and see what’s been drawing people here since the B.C. years.

36 Hours in Geneva 12:00

13:00

15:00

18:00

Arrive at Geneva-Cointreau

Check in at the Grand Hotel

Tour around the Old Town

Stop for an aperitif at Place

airport – just 15 minutes from

Kempinski Geneva, the premier

– the oldest part of this once

du Bourg-de-Four, also in the

the city center, it’s easy to get a

luxury hotel in the city. Although

walled-off city remains charm-

Old Town. The oldest square in

cab or meet your driver and head

there are a variety of high-end

ingly preserved, with cobblestone

Geneva is a meeting place for

into town. Swiss Airlines and

options (the city is, of course,

streets, a great view of the city,

young and old, and the cafés are

Lufthansa have multiple flights

home to the UN as well as one

the historic cathedral (Geneva is

always bustling. They serve light

arriving every day; the airport is

of the world’s centres for luxury

delightfully light on major tourist

snacks along with your pastis or

also served by most other major

goods) the location can’t be beat

attractions), and excellent an-

drink of choice, but make sure

carriers, and is well-equipped

– we recommend a room at the

tique shopping and art galleries

to leave room for dinner – you’re

to handle private planes as well.

front of the hotel for a view of

lining the narrow streets.

going to need it.

Have your car take you down

Lake Geneva.

Quai du Général-Guisan, and catch a glimpse of the Jet d’Eau, 460 feet of high-pressure spray that has become the symbol of this waterfront city.

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20:00

10:00am

13:00

16:00

When you’re finished people-

Rent a car and take the

Stop in the town of Chexbres

Head back into Geneva, and

watching in the square, begin

scenic drive up to the Lavaux,

for lunch at Le Baron Tavernier, a

get out onto the lake – if you

your descent down towards the

the terraced vineyards preserved

gorgeous old restaurant and hotel

have a connection at the local

city: you’ll come across Café des

as a UNESCO World Heritage

– and if the weather is warm, be

yacht club, Société Nautique de

Antiquaires which serves clas-

side. It’s about 45 minutes by car

sure to sit out on the deck, where

Genève, the sailing here is excel-

sic Swiss cuisine. If there’s ever

from Geneva, or you can catch a

nothing but a waist-high piece of

lent, if a bit light sometimes. Light

an opportunity for fondue, this

train to Lausanne and connect

glass separates you from the roll-

air, however, is just an excuse to

is it – the meats and bread are

to the Train des Vignes, to tour

ing vineyards and the lake below.

head to the windsurfing beach

delicious and hearty, especially

from vineyard to vineyard. There

As spectacular as the view is the

next to Genève Plage, where

coated in cheese, and they also

are 11 villages within the region,

perch, a local favorite, straight

equipment, lessons and a great

serve raclettes, the traditional

with a complete and well-run

out of the lake below, or else try

social scene are all on offer – the

Swiss (thought not Genevois)

tasting system, but don’t feel ob-

the comparable fera – sweet, firm

rocks surrounding the launching

potato dish. Restaurants stay

ligated to visit them all – walking

white fish that pair beautifully

harbor are draped with happy

open until around 11pm and

up and down the terraces can be

with a glass of Chasselas, the

young people, and spontaneous

there are numerous bars nearby

a bit grueling, and we feel it’s

most popular local grape.

happy hours and dance parties

for a nightcap.

better to go slowly and enjoy.

are known to break out here.

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70

23:00

10:00am

12:00

After your lakeside aperitif

While Geneva isn’t known

Before heading out of down,

As your plane takes off from

head to Hotel de la Paix, for

for its nightlife, there are a few

stroll down the Rue du Rhone

this European centre, you could

dinner at Restaurant Vertig’O.

perennial favorites that continue

and Rue de Rive, the two main

be going almost anywhere in

The

French-Mediter-

to draw crowds – the Platinum

shopping arteries of the city, to

the world – but hopefully the

ranean restaurant is headed by

modern

Club is famous for its music and

take in the vast display of luxury

next time you pass through, the

Chef Jerome Manifacier, who

dance parties, while Le Sip, a

goods for sale. Geneva is the

charms of Switzerland will con-

trained under legendary Swiss

local favorite, is known for their

centre of the watch world, and

vince you to stay a little while.

chef Gerard Rabaey in his three

high-quality cocktails and ware-

you won’t find a better selection

Macaron Michelin-starred res-

house dance floor. But the best

anywhere else at comparable

taurant. Following his focus on

of both worlds is located right

prices to other major cities. This

seasonal ingredients and quality

in the Kempinski Grand itself –

route has the added bonus of

French preparations, the restau-

the highly selective Java Club is

taking you past many of Switzer-

rant quickly became known as

the biggest in Geneva, and hosts

land’s chocolate shops – be sure

one of Geneva’s best.

excellent parties Tuesdays to

to stop in and pick some up. It

Saturdays.

really is that good.

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Dalmore Ad.indd 1

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HERMES_sep09 25/09/2009 14:17 Page 72

SADDLE The leading luxury leather house looks to the future

I 72

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n a darkened old convent on a hot summer day in Paris, the

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everything from seersucker to calfskin. This is the work of Her-

Back in New York, in the polished midtown

mès menswear designer Véronique Nichanian: the essential

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shapes made from the best materials in the world. The proportions were

Robert Chavez sits comfortably at the head of a

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“When I first got to Hermes I was surprised by

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how much home product there was – everything

off tanned, toned arms in Cannes and Monaco, and tied around the necks

from furniture to ashtrays to porcelain. It’s the

of first-class passengers of planes all over the world. But Hermès Birkin

kind of thing that can get in a new customer,

looks particularly at home in Paris, reflected in the storefronts of the Rue

who saw something specific that they liked, but

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HERMES_sep09 25/09/2009 14:17 Page 73

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it can also attract a regular who maybe had just never thought about it.”

Faced with the drop in sales following 9/11

A retailer by training, Chavez came up in the Bloomingdales train-

just after he’d begun the job and instituted a

ing program after Princeton, the moved to Macy’s, working his way up to

new customer-focued training program, he’s

overseeing all the main floor divisions. He left in 1992 to take a job at

been preparing for fluctuations all along, learn-

Etienne Aigner, as the president of the company at just 37 years old,

ing to think nine months or a year ahead. Now,

completely revamping the company’s image, cleaning up the promotion,

the essence of his job is figuring out how to

distribution channels and other operational issues. More importantly, he

translate Hermès across the United States, and

says, it taught him the importance of putting together a strong team. In

covering such a vast market isn’t easy. “We have

2000, after more than 20 years straight in the working world, he took

to say, ‘What’s the strategy for Southern Calfor-

four months off to reflect on his next move. A headhunter had called with

nia, for Chicago, for Boston?’ It’s important to

a tease about a big luxury house, but couldn’t reveal more details until

understand the market in great detail. It’s a big

after Chavez had already accepted a position at Frederic Fekkai, which

mistake to go by spreadsheets, to say, okay, this

he hoped to use as a segue into the luxury world, since it was at the time

store does five percent of this product, so we’ll allocate them five percent of this inventory. I really believe, thanks to my Macy’s training, that you have to be out in the stores, go see the stores, know the staff, talk to people.” Currently, there are 23 stores in the United States, with plans to expand further on the coasts. The next store is a dedicated men’s store on Madison Avenue, across from the flagship, featuring the made-to-measure program. “The store will have a whole floor devoted to it, and it’s so fantastic.

The clients choose a silhouette and then they can choose from hundreds of fabrics at all price points, and customize every detail: if they want their jacket lined with a scarf print, or embroidery or buttons. The choices are extraordinary.

There are two fittings where you can tweak and finalize and really get something unique. We still have clients that want things customized; that’s always been the thing that drives the custom work. Then it can turn into collaboration on a bigger level, as with the helicopter we did with Eurocopter. There are people who really love that Hermes touch, either our leather or just our

a part of Chanel. “Five months later I got a call from that person saying

style, and it happens naturally from there.”

that she could finally tell me what the job was that she’d been hinting

Interpreting what that touch really means

about, and it was Hermes. I thought, wow, that would be amazing, but I

has been a constant learning process for

just took this job a few months ago, how could I do that? But I decided

Chavez, but one that he found highly enjoyable.

to just take the meeting and go in and talk to them, and after a day of

“When I started, I didn’t come here first, they

talking to people, they said, “How soon can you get to Paris?” So I went.

sent me to Paris for a month. I had days of being

I was supposed to meet two people but ended up meeting six or seven,

toured around, meeting people. I even worked

and after an afternoon they offered me the position based on my retail ex-

in the atelier for three days; I had to learn to

perience, plus I think the chemistry was just right.”

saddlestitch. I made a card case that I still have,

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you can see the stitching progressing as you go

we sometimes set up for in-store events, bring in a silk artist from Lyon,

around the edge,” he laughs. “I got to see all the

and they put the silk up on the screen, paint it, and you watch it become

factories, the craftspeople, it helps you appre-

this incredible thing. Before people come in and say, “How can you charge

ciate the quality and craftsmanship. That the

$375 for a scarf?” and after they see the screeners, they say, “I can’t be-

edges of the scarves are still rolled by hand, or

lieve you only charge $375.”

that someone examines every inch of a bolt of

Beyond the scarves, of course, there is the ultimate high-priced Her-

silk, and if theres a tiny imperfection or irregu-

mès product, and that is the Birkin bag. The ultimate expression of the

larity, out it goes into the garbage. It’s amazing.

saddle stitching Chavez had to learn, it has become one of their flagship

Having learned and understood that, I saw how

products, and one of the most sought after luxury objects in the world. To

to translate that. We have a portable screen that

witness the birth of one of these bags, we headed back to Paris, out of the glamorous city center, and into the suburbs, to one of their 10 production sites, all located in France. The Harmonie workshop, a nondescript commercial building just down the street from Hermès headquarters in Pantin, houses a vast fabric warehouse, where we stand ogling piles of silks and cottons until Kerry Hollinger, head of the small leather goods collections, beckons us onward. She explains that what we’ve been looking at is one of the shirting workshops; Hermès ID is also in this building, where the wildest Hermes customer dreams come true. Helicopters, boats, motorcycles, anything that can benefit from the touch of Hermès leather is customized here. But the real action, she says, is upstairs.

The company, founded in 1837, stayed in their offices above the 24 rue Faubourg store until 1992, when they were finally forced to expand; they’ve already outgrown what they still call “the new offices” and are continuing to buy as many neighboring buildings as they can. The degree of specialization amongst the 250 craftspeople employed here and elsewhere is staggering; its not just corporate speak when they say that these are workshops, not factories. Indeed, as is immediately evident when we step out of the elevator, it is the physical and philosophical opposite of a vast room full of people as interchangeable as the parts they’re making – everything, everyone, is specialized. France has a leather school from which Hermès takes the top eight students and apprentices them for their own special training.

“What they learn isn’t as intricate as what we do, the quality is higher,” says Hollinger, and the students spend about 15 months training in this and other workshops, by the end of which time they will have made one Birkin and one Kelly bag, which between them include all the proprietary details for finishing, inside and out. “They work under someone more experienced and we really emphasize quality to them over and over.”

We move from table to table, observing some of the dozens of steps that go into creating one of these bags. Each edge, for instance, has a line that’s hand-embossed along the threadline. “They have to get the pressure and oil just right,” she says, explaining a detail which many companies machine onto their leather bags to simulate that same effect. Little bits of bags and leather, like bright flowers, pepper the workshop – here, the handle of a tool is wrapped in red pebbled leather; there, the rough edge of a metal hanging rack is padded with a strip of hot pink kidskin. All the

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leathers are colored on site by hand. In the hour we were there, there were several women who did nothing but finish the edges of their pieces, sanding away at edges so perfectly beveled it was impossible for the casual observer to believe they were shaped by hand, let alone had any irregularities,but then again, these are not casual observers, and, says Hollinger, “It’s sanded and dyed as many times as it takes to get it right.

There are layers and layers on it by the end.”

Two tables in the back have larger bags gripped in cork-lined vises; a 40cm camel leather Birkin and a larger Kelly bag in a dreamy gray-blue color, one of the newest introductions to the range. Both craftspeople are absorbed in saddle stitching the thick layers of the tops of the bags, the signature stitch that makes wealthy women all over the world confident that they can stuff their handbags full of the detritus of a life well-lived, throw it into the backseat or drop it on the floor, and it will still look as beautiful as the day it came out of its orange box.

Done with two needles, the saddle stich is very strong and secure, a legacy, as the name suggests, from Hermès’ roots as a saddlery. A single piece of sturdy linen thread is covered in beeswax then stitched from both ends, a matter of practical importance that guarantees if one stitch breaks, the rest of the thread won’t fall apart, and it can go without being restitched indefinitely. Perhaps not a priority for a modern handbag, but a definite asset on a horse’s saddle mid-ride or mid-show. The craftsperson uses an awl to make a hole, then deftly switches the awl for the needle and pulls both ends of the thread through to make a very tight knot. Hollinger interjects, “When they start stitching, they finish; they don’t take breaks or go out because after lunch they wont have the same energy, the same stitch.” Truly, even as I peer over their shoulders, those in the middle of their stitching remain in their Zen-like calm, chatting with their neighbors, music playing, but clearly absorbed in the rhythm of their work.

The bags are made inside out, the basis for Hermès’ claim that every inch of their bags are equally perfect. An almost unfathomable thing to imagine, except that then a woman beckons us over to the corner, where a black bag that would look at home on the shelf of any boutique sits on her work table. “Black lizard,”

Robert Chavez

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whispers Hollinger, “she’s been here a while. You wouldn’t want to start on one of those!” and indeed, as she picks up the bag, flips the handles to point towards the floor and begins to firmly, snaking the stitches down the sides of the bag, working the squeaking leather centimeter by centimeter. I decide would indeed not want that. I’m not even touching the bag and I’m breaking out in a nervous sweat, watching approximately $15,000 of material, history and human labor take such punishment.

She smiles, in on the joke, as she pushes out the first corner of the bag’s bottom panel with an audible pop and then suddenly, three pops later, there it is, not entirely finished but fully recognizable in its black, glossy glory, a 30cm Birkin bag. With nary a break in the action, she reaches for a dull wooden knife and begins working in the folds on the side of the bag, the end of her labor nearing.

Her neighbor, a very dashing young blond Frenchman, is finishing work on the hardware, one of the last steps in the process, and requiring skills beyond that of a leatherworker into that of a silversmith. Each piece of hardware is nailed through the leather and then the end of the nail is cut off and hammered down carefully until it’s formed into a nailhead, making it nearly impossible for the hardware to fall off. “Every little bit is hand finished,” notes Hollinger almost unnecessarily, as the amount of considered detail in every step of the process is dizzying. “All the detailing makes the bags costly, not expensive. It adds up to so many hours by so many people.” This raises the inevitable question when discussing Hermès handbags of how is it possible that a bag sold at a price which is more than many people make in a year has waiting lists of more than a year old, and in a larger sense, how has this company, which sells only the highest end leather, silk, china and other luxury goods, managed to not only survive but thrive and grow in the midst of an economic crisis?

The answer, according to Chavez, is at the core of their company’s philosophy. Hermès has never been about ubiquity or flash, and that understated image is both more attractive to their key customers and easier to maintain. “We want a very limited distribution for our products, and that’s key to weathering the storm. Remember last fall’s 70 percent off sales? I remember walking into Saks Fifth Avenue, seeing designer merchandise thrown all over the place, being sold for nothing. I was horrified. We didn’t do it; people came in and said, “Don’t you have anything on sale?

Everything else is on sale,” but we just said no, sorry, and it helped us. Our customers fell off a bit, but it’s helped us in the long run to maintain.” He guided his company past the pitfalls that befell many of their competitors, resisting the lure of ever-larger stores and ever-easier money. “I draw a bit from our competitors, but it’s more about what not to do. We have great creative people here figuring out where we can go, so they come up with their ideas, and its up to me to see what we have to avoid. Every time I see some gigantic mega-flagship, I think, ‘My god, I’m glad that’s not us,’ and I think right now a lot of them are regretting things like that.”

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Hermès’ devotion to their core customers, a systematic program of

ued to grow in the two toughest quarters since

communication between sales associates and regulars that was imple-

the beginning of the recession, and their com-

mented at the beginning of Chavez’s tenure, has seen dividends. “A lot

petitors are scrambling to get back to a simi-

of the once a year shoppers, who come in to buy that one tie, that one

larly stable position.

bracelet, they dropped off significantly this year, but our regulars stayed

Back in the Harmonie workshop, we inhale

with us.” Their commitment is not just to moving product, but to truly un-

the smell of cauterizing leather, growing smooth

derstanding and making their customers happy when they enter a store.

under what looks like the stroke of an electric

“There’s always been a feeling of wanting to surprise our clients, that’s

fountain pen. Our guide remarks that it was

a word we use a lot around here. There’s always been an effort to do new

only 16 years ago that they heated the smooth-

things.” However, that surprise never comes at the cost of the key ele-

ing tools on Bunsen burners sitting on their ta-

ments that are the signature of the brand. “I think people know us for

bles, requiring yet another layer of ability to

three things. They know us for leather bags, sure, but also belts and

gage just how hot your tool was. Electric,

small leather goods, and then of course for silk as well. The third thing

frankly, seems like a better idea in a room full

is our color.” Color, he explains, is an icon at Hermès. “People notice it

of dangling bits of cloth and thread and leather,

and appreciate it. I saw the color kitchen in Lyon, where we’ve made

and the craftswoman smiles wryly when the

something like 70,000 colors and it’s just incredible, something people

Bunsen burners are mentioned. Progress has

respond to.” It may seem counterintuitive, but the company has contin-

not left the workshop untouched, but certain as-

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pects of this traditional labor necessarily retain an old-fashioned feel. For instance, men usually work on larger bags. Not out of any ingrained preference, she explains, but it takes a lot of strength to stitch through that much leather. “In the trunk workshop, they’re making a hole and then stitching through layers of wood and leather together. In the small leather goods workshops, the staff is almost entirely female, where we need smaller fingers to finesse the stitching and turning.” There is no preference given to anything other than the absolute top level of skill, and that makes hiring difficult enough. “You really need someone who wants to work with their hands, wants to work in a group, but there are places here to grow. They do advance, but they have to be very gifted to begin with.”

Of the few people who have left, Hollinger says, “A lot of those came

“There’s always been a feeling of wanting to surprise our clients, to do new things”

back. It’s just not possible to do this level of work anywhere else.” The nature of Hermès as a family company and a French company means that constant hiring and firing is not a habit or even a possibility were more labor available. “Instead we have the best people, using the best materials, to make the best product they can, every time, he concludes.” n

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83

TWO OF A KIND Osvaldo Patrizzi’s New York City showroom, high over Madison Avenue, is full of empty display cases. Normally this would be worrisome, but when your work is auctioning off some of the rarest and most expensive watches, clocks, and timepieces to the highest echelon of collectors in the world, a room full of empty cases is a very good thing.

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M

Mr. Patrizzi, chiseled and handsome at 64 as only an Italian can be,

100K: How did you transition from watchmaking to auction-

sits in the conference room with his partner, Philip Poniz (whose busi-

eering?

ness card reads “Expert-in-Chief”) against the backdrop of a window

OP: I became a watchmaker because I had to work to make money

engraved “Patrizzi & Co.” The watch expert and chairman of the auction

for my family. When I had enough experience around the world and

house has been in the watch business for just over 50 years; indeed, he

especially around Europe, I saw that Milano was too small. It’s okay,

created much of the watch business as we now know it. With the found-

it’s a big city, it’s probably the number one city in Italy for industry, but

ing of his first auction house, Antiquorum, he is credited with essen-

it’s small. One of the best ways to succeed is to have a different kind of

tially creating the market for collecting high-end watches, and now, with

instrument, and to get to know people, and the best way to do that is the

Patrizzi & Co., he’s taken the experience gained over a lifetime to create

auction. You have the world in front of you; if you have a nice boutique

a new concept in auctioneering. Founded in April 2008, the company

you have the street. It’s why I enjoy the auction. Today, if we have one

is truly collector-driven – it takes advantage of multi-screen technology

watch in New York, 10 minutes later China, South America, they know,

to allow state-of-the-art virtual auctions, which for the collector means

they say wow, that’s a lot of money. It’s really a test market for what the

they can follow multiple threads within the auction at once, and for the

value of the watches is, for buying and selling.

house means moving up to 1500 pieces per auction, rather than the limit of four or five hundred that most sites can currently handle. They’ve also

100K: How do you fi nd the watches that you auction? Do

eliminated the buyer’s commission, a considerable change, since most

you source from individuals, from companies, from other

houses charge 20-25 percent of the sale price added to the cost, a fee

avenues?

which can be considerable when auctioning items in the millions of dol-

Philip Poniz: Yesterday, I was speaking with our partner in Los An-

lars. As Patrizzi & Co. is just celebrated their first anniversary after a

geles, who mentioned that Osvaldo was in Los Angeles for one day; he

very successful year, we went to the man himself to hear his thoughts on

got about $1 million or so of watches. I like mushrooms, when I go to

watches, auctions, and what he’s doing now.

the woods, I pick mushrooms. When Osvaldo goes anywhere, he picks up watches, I don’t know how, but that’s what he does! They just come

100 Thousand Club: How did you get started in the watch in-

to him. I know almost all watch people, there’s no one like Osvaldo, not

dustry?

even close.

Osvaldo Patrizzi: With watches? Oh, I had to. My father died when I

OP: Today, it’s a good day!

was 13 years old, and I had to work. I had an apprenticeship in a watch

PP: Usually, we quarrel.

and clock workshop and it started my interest and my passion for watches,

This, we note, is patently untrue. Poniz joined Patrizzi at Antiquorum

and after I saw that I had an interest not only from the technical point of

in 2000, and stayed with him after the dramatic breakup of Antiquo-

view but the historical. I was smart, I was artistic, but I thought people

rum in the summer of 2007. After Artist House, the Japanese hold-

were such geniuses to have invented this mechanism to give you the in-

ing company, purchased a 50 percent stake in Antiquorum, disputes

formation you want, astronomic, astrological…today you have the GSM,

between the investors and the founder led to a series of disputes, firings

the sun, and the watch. And the watch is able to, with precision, with the

(including Patrizzi’s own ouster) and a flurry of lawsuits on both sides.

position of the stars and the sun, tell you where you are.

Patrizzi never dwells on what happened between him and the company

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he founded, though his anger at what took place was well-documented

to show them that myself and the team that wanted to join me, they’re

in the press the following year. The reticence we expected on the sub-

the best people, more knowledge and experience than anyone in the

ject of his former firm never manifested itself; he seems to have chan-

world. I had somebody yesterday ask me “How many experts at our

nelled that energy into his new venture, and is enjoying coming from

level are there in the world?” and I said, maybe 11? And two are in the

a very different place professionally – he comes in this time at the top

same company, in this room, it is fantastic. We though we’d open a new

of his game, in a market that he himself is credited with creating, with

company, to do what we like.

remarkable personal connections to the top experts, buyers, and sellers

PP: Wait, I thought it was just for fun!

in the watch world.

OP: It is fun, we have a lot of fun. We have a lot of problems, but the fun makes it easy to resolve the problems.

100K: What was is like to start over?

86

OP: You mean between Antiquorum and now? I started [Patrizzi &

100K: What’s been your biggest sale so far?

Co.] for one special reason, to show that what the company said about

OP: There was a fantastic sale of renaissance clocks in May, in Milano.

me, it wasn’t true. I mean, can you imagine, I have 35 years of experi-

It was fantastic not only because we had so many clocks and early

ence auctioning, 50 in the watch world, even somebody coming in with

watches from one owner, but also these clocks are in excellent condi-

all the problems I have, and I’m able to start a new company with no

tion. We practically never get to exercise all of our passion, not only

problems. Zero. Normally when you try to start with a problem like

for the wristwatches, but also for the clocks. The watches, sometimes

that on your back, with the lawyers, the money…I lost some money in

they’re boring, this is several centuries, several different styles, dif-

Antiquorum, okay, but it’s no problem. What is important is especially

ferent mechanical concepts. When you have the chance to see it all

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together, it’s really, really incredible. There are not many today who are interested in buying this kind of horological art. And also we had a spring sale in Geneva that was very good, and one in New York, and some very important watches coming up in September, there’s a watch that will get probably a million dollars. We’re cataloging everything now. The best souvenir for the moment is this collection of clocks.

100K: You pioneered some new ideas in auctions, including the themed sale, which you’ve continued to fi nd success with.

What do you think makes people respond to them?

OP: The idea to create the themed sale came from the way this business normally is done. You have some interested people, really cultivating one brand, one type of horology, but from the historical point of view, only. And missing on the market were people who didn’t just approach the expert, because there’s the collector approach. We live every day with the collectors, we know what the collector wants, what they want to see, what we have to explain. The thematic sale for us is the event where we can go deep on the history of the subject, to explain in an easy way for a dealer, collector or amateur who wants to know the brand or the subject. Also, themed sales are supported by a lot of promotions, it is commercial, most of its made by the collectors themselves. They’re

Above: Osvaldo Patrizzi, Chairman Below: Philip Poniz, Founding Partner

talking watches 18 hours a day. It’s a lot of work, the thematic sale, but the interest in the brand comes from something we decide, something important, like a jubilee, or the anniversary of an iconic model of that brand, or we decide to focus on one kind of horology, say English or French. Or…remember Antiquorum in Love?

PP: That was a good sale.

OP: That was a very good sale. We have to see the historical point of view, what gives us a reason to focus. When we have this reason we start to find the pieces, to find them, to describe and explain what the sale means and what we want to show, and we see the customer respond to that. The approach is totally different than the classic approach.

PP: Nothing like that in the history of the world, has ever been assembled.

100K: Will you seek out watches along the lines of a particular theme, or does the theme follow what you’re fi nding?

OP: If we find a watch collection where the collection is possible for a thematic sale, we start to see if we have an intellectual interest, its important that it not just be a collection of very nice watches, and then we do an auction. We need to have something to talk about, something to explain. If we find that its just one kind, one style, we have to have an argument to explain at the beginning, to create an auction theme. I think it’s a choice we made from the beginning, in 1974 when I started, then it was really only Sothebys and Christies, who were selling. When I started,

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my choice was to go directly to the buyer, to explain and describe. You

was made about 30 years before it was thought to have been made. We

don’t explain and describe it the same way to the dealers. And we started

discovered the beginnings of Patek Phillipe, we’re still working on that.

with this kind of education from the beginning, because the more people

Many things, from horological analysis, we created a number of historic

that have knowledge, the more that have the interest, and the ability to

changes. Sixty percent of the watches that are in the most important

pay. And that is what happened.

horological museum [Patek’s own museum] came through us.

PP: Take the Art of American Horology. It was something which was

OP: From what I hear yesterday in LA, we are only at the beginning.

worth doing because American horology has a very special effect. He

There’s a machine that costs millions that can make a perfect watch.

decided to do it, and when I go to shows now, people talk about it, and it

For the future, it’s important. It makes it a million times more precise,

was what, 10 years ago? Nobody else has done anything like this.

really millions, and its easier, cheaper, one wheel that would cost $10,

OP: It’s true, you know, this approach, here and at Antiquorum, it cre-

with this machine, costs $ 3, and it has the capacity to finish and be

ated a lot of interest around watches, even in Switzerland. In 1975, only

developed in the next 10 to 15 years, to develop the most incredible

two students followed a horological path in school. They were thinking of

watches in a medium size, not larger and larger. We’re much more in-

closing, because no one was interested in mechanical watches. In 1980-

terested in the kind of horology of craftsmen, but from a technical point

81, when we were starting to sell those watches and focusing on those

of view its fantastic.

“when I go to the woods, I pick mushrooms. When Osvaldo goes anywhere, he picks up watches,I don’t know how, but that’s what he does! ” watches as a collectible, there were 24 students in the program. Is it just

100K: Why is there emphasis on making watches smaller when

because of us? Probably there were always people who loved watches, but

the trend has been to make them bigger?

people forget, if they don’t have people showing them what’s nice, regu-

OP: At times, our interest, we explain to the customer, a lot of times

larly exciting them about what we do. This was the quartz period, and it

they don’t know the difference between a normal watch and an extra

caused a lot of problems. From 1980-90, we’re missing a generation of

flat watch. A lot of people don’t understand the importance to be small

watchmakers. The 1970s watchmaker changed from watches to electron-

and flat – why? Because a smaller watch costs much more than a bigger

ics. After, we’re starting again with manual and mechanical, and they’ve

watch. Today, sure, people like bigger, it’s showier, but at the time small

come back. Today we have probably the best period in horological history,

meant capacity, manual capacity, precision, requiring much more than

where the watch industry makes incredible watches. We’re changing from

a normal size watch. And flat, it required the ability to work in very

horology to kinetic art, it’s a very nice evolution. We want to create our

small dimensions, its much more explain. To explain why an extra flat

own customers, we want to tell them our passion first, and the way we see

watch costs much more than a large watch, it’s hard to explain based

our business. When we get together, Philip and I, we don’t talk football,

on what we like. We have to show them and get them to participate and

we don’t talk women, we don’t talk cars, we talk watches.

get pleasure out of it.

Patrizzi’s communications manager overhears this and begins to

PP: 22mm difference could be a 100 percent increase in the price. This

hassle him about his lack of outside interests – a particular issue when

is in watches made in the beginning of the 20th century. You didn’t men-

trying to get him to engage in, say, Twitter. He laughs at the gentle

tion the concepts! The entire idea!

teasing, but then focuses in with his signature combination of excited

OP: About the new auction?

gesticulation and intense concentration.

PP: About the collectors, friends, not making them pay…

OP: But, okay, watches are not a boring subject! You have so many

OP: One of our qualities in this business is not to take advantage of

developments in art, engraving, enamel, repoussé, technical, and many

the situation, to go deep in what we do, but also to see what’s missing,

times, it so rich, we have to think for days and days to understand what

what is not logical, or some situation where the business is driven by

the watchmaker made 200 years ago, by hand, to create one watch, one

the financial people and not by the experts. It’s important to put the

escapement, one complication…

church in the middle of the village. That’s why we decided with this

PP: During our research, we have advanced the history of horology

new company to start a new concept, and the concept is to give the real

significantly. We discovered that the chronograph, the return to zero, it

value to the buyer, to eliminate the buyer’s commission and to become a

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partner with the vendor. It’s difficult sometimes for people to approach

to appreciate a piece of modern art than a watch, because it’s known

the auction when they don’t know how much they’re going to have to pay.

worldwide. Pieces of modern art, from a new artist…this is much more

Emotion pushes them to go up, up, and up and afterwards they come

of an investment. Philip just come from Shanghai and I think, well, why

down, and start to think “Oh, how much do I have to pay now? I have to

don’t you ask him?

pay $100,000, plus the commission is $125,000, plus tax is $135,000, my

PP: I called Osvaldo and said “We’ve got to establish an office in China,

god, 30-40 percent you pay on service. This is important because it’s

we’ve got to.” The level of sophistication and interest of the Chinese is

30-40 percent of the auction house charges of the value.

remarkable, and it’s developed very quickly. I believe that the most

If you want to include the service in the value of the watch, you have to reduce the value of the watch, to reduce the estimation and give the

expensive watch from our next sale, the Only Watch, will be bought by a Chinese collector.

lowest bid to the buyer and say its low, I’d go up. Its not the reality of the market, when at auction you’re selling, the estimation still exists,

100K: Is it difficult establishing presence in Asia?

people don’t understand why the sale prices are up and down. If I put

OP: It’s much more difficult to find good people. To find a place, no, to

down 100, I pay 100, its simpler from the buyer’s point of view, and

get the documents and meet people, no, but to find nice people to work

from our point of view, if you know how much you’ll pay, maybe you’ll

in the same spirit, it’s not easy, because you need time to see who is

buy more. It’s simpler. And if we send to the vendor this watch worth

really passionate, or just trying to make money. After so many years,

$80-$100,000, we start at $60-$65,000 and split the difference, he says

though, we know people who are able to help us.

okay, he tries to make the best for everyone. We don’t just to sell to get to the commission at any price, its not important how much it fetches,

100K: You seem to consider new collectors in your thinking

just to get the auction house the commission to survive. It’s a friendly

quite a bit; what was your fi rst watch?

approach and a transparent approach, and today with a real global

OP: The first watch I ever bought…I received it when I made First

market, this kind of transparency helps a lot, and we see the result, we

Communion, when I was 11; it was a Zodiac. At the time, it was like,

have spectacular sales.

wow. My first purchase, I was probably 14, but it was not for myself, just to buy something to sell it. In Italy at the time, the fashion was to buy

100K: Have you noticed an influx of new watches in the eco-

the English style long-case clocks, and many of the companies change

nomic downturn? Do you think people are trying to recoup

their names for Italy. I remember I bought one very nice long-case clock

some of what they may have invested in watches?

from Scotland, I put it at home in my apartment, and after a few days,

OP: To buy new watches to make money, it’s not a very clever idea. You

somebody came in and wanted to buy it, and I said no, this is for me –

have to buy the watches because you like them and you have the capacity

but hey, if I sell it, I make money!

to buy and get pleasure out of them. It’s a mistake at the beginning to think

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that, “I’ll buy the watch at the next watch show and keep it six months

100K: Do you fi nd that a lot of watch collectors are inter-

and sell it for a profit.” You don’t buy one car and keep it six months

ested in clocks?

and expect to make money. You have some cars and some watches that

OP: At the time in Italy, most people were interested in clocks. They

are so rare that are made in so few models that are so spectacular that

were easy because you enter in the house and see them; in watches you

sometimes, yes, its true, the limited number, the quantity of demand push

need to keep them in safes, go to the bank to see them. If watch collectors

up the price, but most of your new wristwatches are time instruments, not

now buy clocks, it’s just for decoration. The pocketwatch collectors some-

investments. You have to give at the time what they want and keep it while

times overlap, because a pocketwatch and clocks come from the same

the price evolves for 10 or 15, after 20 or 30 years the price will be stable

kind of passion. Wristwatches are a different world, and different age.

and it will be vintage. But not in two or three years.

Watches, the youngest watch collector we have is 11 years old, he came

I think it’s a mistake in the beginning to buy for investment; you

with his mother to the auction, and the mother said, my son is bidding,

should buy what you like. And what you like depends on the amount

whatever he does is okay. He bought four, five, six watches, very very

of money you have, the pleasure you get, you buy what you like. Later,

clever choices, very nice. He was Chinese, he bought for a real amount of

collecting for investment, its possible. We see that when the value of the

money, $60-70,000. Wristwatches are probably around 55-60 years old,

money goes up, the value of everything else goes down, but the watches

the people. Pocketwatches start probably at 25 and go up from there. And

are more stable than some other art because its small, easy to transport

clocks are probably more around 40-50 years old, the average age of

and there’s a worldwide appreciation. It’s more difficult for the Chinese

a collector.

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100K: And what do you wear now?

these people are from a foundation for young musicians, we find one

OP: Now, it’s a Rolex Daytona, with the dial that’s changed color. I was

young guy who plays fantastically and needs money, and decided to

the first to realize this kind of mistake, and collect them.

support him.

PP: He was the first to realize that certain types of Rolex dials with age,

PP: Ah! Now I understand the concert before our last Milano auction!

change colors. Collectors started calling those dials Patrizzi’s dials.

We organised a concert of string instruments, but the real old strings,

OP: This is my own brand, Rolex! But really, what is nice is that these

the way they used to be strung a 100 years ago, natural guts. A little

mistakes sometimes are so charming, we see in the plate collections

bit softer, it was hard to organize when he was in Paris, but he brought

some color, from black to chocolate, or chocolate to red, or bluish –

an orchestra from London to Milan and it made quite an impact. Maybe

you’d never produce it. Like Indian Summer.

that’s why we sold those clocks so well!

OP: Especially because the music was specially composed for clocks.

92

100K: Did you ever consider taking your career in another di-

PP: Yes, I forgot, about the music, not many people know about Mozart

rection? What would you be doing if you weren’t doing this?

and others, they made music for clocks. This was a concert from that

OP: I’m very happy with what I do. Just yesterday, we had a meet-

music. They were making very sophisticated music.

ing with several people, collectors, investors, but also musicians, and

100K: Is that something you see yourself doing more of?

when I was talking music, I see that, I think okay, in my next life, I’d

OP: I think we have to think, I’d like if one day we could do American

like to go down that path. I like piano, the violin. It’s fantastic because

music, to get an American composer from that same period, because

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they’re really two different things but so similar in some ways. Some-

happened, to have 100 percent support and it’s a pleasure to do some-

thing that explains another thing.

thing there.

PP: We got the oldest existing American-made watch, from the 1760s.

And this is something really new, somebody from Singapore with

A watch with a really unusual escapement. The ébauche bounces, the

somebody from Richemont asked me if we’re interesting in making,

fi nish and everything is American. A remarkable piece. We got it

every year or every two years, one new concept at Basel, only for a

because of the Art of American sale.

spectacular watch, just to create an event, push people worldwide to

OP: Oh?

talk about something spectacular.

PP: And, it’s from a clock collector! It requires an article, it requires

PP: Like a contest – one watch, and one of the most important manu-

someone to write good music for it.

facturers.

OP: The Basel fair, the Geneva fair, it’s nice, but it’s made for pro-

100K: So what’s coming up next for Patrizzi & Co.?

duction, its made for a thousand, ten thousand – this, we’ll make one.

OP: Next, I can’t tell you, because we haven’t signed the contract

It’ll push the boundaries…it’s so important that they see the capacity

yet, but the company is very famous, in the next year they’re having

and the savoir faire of the watch industry, the manufacturers. This is

a very important anniversary, and the company is really interested in

really something.

giving to us and to explain to the public their brand and model that’s

PP: For Only Watch, they made something that has been not unheard

very important, to explain the design, and how the model changed

of, but unthinkable. They changed the meaning of time. They made

the way we produce and made watches. I’ll tell you, it’s not Rolex, it’s

a watch where you can adjust your pace of time, literally. It’s a phi-

not Patek.

losopher’s stone sort of watch, literally. If the time goes well for you,

We also have the Only Watch, which is a special sale, important

if you’re having a good time, you switch the lever, and the watch goes

for several reasons. The auction is for a charity, the whole amount is

slowly so the time expands twice as big. The other way around, if it’s a

given to research for muscular dystrophy. I founded it with Luc Pet-

lousy time, everything goes bad, stressful, you switch the lever to the

tavino four or five years ago, and asked each manufacturer to give us

other side, and the time starts flying. Then of course when you come to

one watch. It went very well, with the patronage of these companies,

your senses, you put the lever in the middle and the hands go regular

and being in Monaco is important. We asked for watches for selling,

time. Nothing like that had ever been thought of, to say nothing of

and sold them well because its during the Monaco Yacht Show, the

making – they made it for us, for this Only Watch.

best event for boats, which brings to the same place, a few square

OP: The approach is very interesting, because practically we go out

metres, billionaires from all over the world, and we can show them

of what is the gold standard regulation of watchmaking. It’s really a

something different than boats. And the second year, when the cata-

philosophical point of view, and like I said, kinetic. Finally, it’s not

log was prepared, we had the fight with Antiquorum; last year, the

more important than time, but when I met with another guy [from the

manager of the yacht show, after I’d already opened this company,

watch company MBR], it was really the new frontier. When I saw this

asked if I wanted to do it again, the Only Watch. I said yes, but we

watch, I’d been to the offices, and I said “Nice, okay, its different, it’s

decided to change the aspect of the sale, and the reason for the sale.

a new conception, but I don’t see the time.” And it’s not important!

Not where the money goes, but the idea is really to make a gala of

You make the watch but it’s not important that it tells the time. We

extraordinary watches.

started talking and I opened my mind and I thought ah, maybe we’re

Just to get watches for selling, okay, it’s nice, but it’s not exciting

not talking about a watch, we’re talking about a piece of art. And be-

enough to do three times, people won’t fi nd a reason to pay double just

cause the idea comes from the mechanical pieces, it becomes kinetic

for charity. But for an extraordinary, unique piece, yes. We explained

art. It’s not important what they do. When I ask him, “But who is your

to the watch manufacturers the project, and we got a fantastic result,

customer?” because they produce 35 watches a year, no more, he gave

because all the major manufacturers decided to produce a special

me the names and practically all these people are major collectors

watch for this occasion – one watch, one incredible watch. And you

worldwide of modern art.

have some watches, the evolution of them, they’re modern and still

Practically it’s that concept, to do something, use the shape, the

unique, or they’re the fi rst of a very small series, still with something

wrist, that is logical with the personality of the owner, and sometimes

different. The commercial part, from the psychological point of view,

you make these; it’s not a time instrument, it’s a piece of art moving

that the manufacturers decided to accept it, decided to put their name

to help you fi nd more or less where you are – what kind of time is

with our name, this is very important. It means a lot to us after what

now.

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of the north

As our sleek black BMW enters St. Petersburg’s city center on a cold Russian morning, the landscape passing outside the window brought to mind the words of William Faulkner: “The past isn’t dead. It isn’t even past.” Cruising down Nevsky Prospect as nearly every visitor to St. Petersburg has before, sets the scene for the city at large. Planned by Peter the Great himself, the wide avenues and bridges that crisscross the network of islands that make up the city are straight and deliberate, with plenty of space for the grand palaces and monuments that have shaped and represent the events that shaped this historic city. The main street in St. Petersburg is marked by the Admiralty building with its tall gold spire on the north end and the Nevsky Monastery to the south, with the Kazan Cathedral, the Dom Knigi bookstore (an Art Deco confection that formerly housed the Singer sewing maching company), the Russian National Library, monuments to Catherine the Great, and the Anichkov Bridge with its four famed equestrian statues in between. It’s also the

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central street for shopping and restaurants with the Gostiny Dvor, the

center of the square. The house where he lived

city’s largest department store, on one side of the street, across from the

here has also been turned into a museum – it

Grand Palace luxury complex.. However, St. Petersburg isn’t a shopping

housed the city’s other favorite son, Tchaiko-

city, its high prices and limited selection means that most wealthy Rus-

vsky, for a short while as well. We next ven-

sians do their shopping on vacations in the rest of Europe or America.

tured down Kanal Griboedova to the Cathedral

That taste of history was enough to get us excited as we pulled up

of the Spilt Blood, a classical-style Russian

in front of the block-long Grand Hotel Europe, the oldest and grandest

orthodox construction in the style of St. Basil’s

of the hotels in this very old, grand city. The first five-star hotel in the

in Moscow, and then into St. Isaac’s Cathedral,

country, the historic building dates from 1824 including the preserved

the fourth-largest domed cathedral in the world

neo-classical facade and original Art Nouveau interiors designed by the

and an architectural marvel. A caveat: visiting

Italian architect Carlo Rossi, an architectural legend in St. Petersburg.

St. Petersburg is not for the faint of heart or the

While the dramatic entrance hall was striking enough, we were headed

weak of stomach. As a royal capital for gen-

for the Historic Floor and the 10 recently renovated historic suites, which

erations, the history here is alive and kicking,

after an extensive restoration, led by French designer Michel Jouannet,

with every stone and every stream symbolizing

who is renowned for his work at Hotel Cipriani in Venice, reflect the rich

something.

history of both the hotel and St. Petersburg. The 1,044 square foot suites

The breadth of this truth hit home as

were named and inspired by famous Russians who left their marks on the

we crossed the bridge onto Peter and Paul

hotel, either directly, as in the Pavarotti Suite, complete with grand piano,

Fortress, one of the 42 islands that make up

where the tenor stayed during his final tour in 2004, and the Dostoevsky

the city called “Venice of the North. Estab-

Suite, named for the author who was a frequent guest (it’s a corner suite,

lished by Peter the Great, the complex has

because he preferred big windows to watch the crowds outside), or indi-

served as a military base, as well as a prison

rectly, as in the sparkling jewel-toned Faberge Suite, and the Romanov

for high-ranking political prisoners. There is

Suite, grand in purple and gold, where we had the honor to lay our heads.

no Russian history without military history,

Though the hotel’s interior, from the palatial L’Europe restaurant to the

and this is one place that many central play-

top-floor ballroom, is big enough and exciting enough to explore for a

ers passed through at one time or another,

week, the view outside was too good to keep us inside for long.

all of them at least once as we soon found

Within walking distance of the Winter Palace Square is the Her-

out. The central cathedral, one of the tallest

mitage Museum, the Moussorgsky Opera and Ballet Theatre; the hotel

structures in Russia, is the burial place of

being the perfect place to set out from for a day of sightseeing. We began

all the tsars from Peter the Great to Alexan-

by exploring the theaters and museums of Arts Square and the main

der III, as well as the fi nal resting place of

Russian Museum; look for the life-size Pushkin statue that marks the

the Romanovs and the family of the last last

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tsar Nicholas II, who were reinterred into their own memorial room.

After fighting our way out of the scrum, we went for a walk into the gardens, stopping to touch the spindly fi ngers of the statue of Peter the Great, created from his death mask and said to be his most accurate depiction, for good luck, overlooking the Gate of Death, which the arch prisoners walked under before boarding a boat that took them to the Gulf of Finland, where they were killed and dumped. Luckily, there is a coping mechanism in place for the weight of all this history, and its name is vodka.

Pectopah is the one word you need to know if you’re hungry in St. Petersburg. It’s pronounced “restoran,” like “restaurant” with a twist, and is displayed prominently on almost every eating establishment in St. Petersburg. The cuisine available varies from Moroccan to European to Japanese (sushi is the latest craze with the younger set) but for traditional Russian fare, there are a few experiences a cut above the rest.

Stroganovsky Dvor is a combination of traditional food, new trends and some concepts that haven’t quite become trends yet, such as inter-table telephoning. Don’t be confused when you walk into the courtyard of the Stroganov Palace, past the entrance to the Chocolate Museum, that large, heated tent filled with statuary that looks like something out of your last bar mitzvah is, in fact, the café; the location is also a hotspot at night. If the word “Stroganov” is ringing some bells, you’re correct: they’re the ones who gave Russia and then the world beef Stroganoff.

However, for that dish we recommend you try the Caviar Bar at the Grand Hotel Europe: they’re in possession of the family’s own recipe, a closely guarded gift from the youngest generation, who are frequent guests at the hotel. The Caviar Bar is also, naturally, in possession of huge quantities of top-notch caviar, and if you’re a fan, make sure to try the sturgeon from whence they came as the delicious fish is not available in the United States. They’ve also recently begun training a vodka sommelier, to help pair their extensive list of vodkas with your various courses, a delightful conceit that nevertheless failed to distract us from the caviar to be consumed. To complete our own vodka education, we lunched at the Russian Vodka Room No. 1, which is also home to the Vodka Museum, tracing the history of the drink in the country. We attempted a trio of shots, and discovered two things the hard way: honey vodka is often also flavored with hot peppers, in case you’re looking for something sweetened, and that curl of white substance on black bread is not some kind of smoked whitefish, it’s lard. That said, the excellent blinis and hot borscht more than assuaged our terrified stomachs, and we more than walked off the heavy stuff seeing at the Western-style nightclubs. The Royal Beach is one club that has adapted the best and worst of American nightlife. Creating a distinctly Russian twist, tanks of baby alligators and bikini-clad gogo dancers made a lively addition to the scene. For a nightcap, nearly everyone in the city has taken ad-

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vantage of the Lobby Bar in the Grand Hotel Europe – the beautifully

captured the leaders of the government, which

preserved Art Nouveau-style space is open 24 hours, and the signature

stands as it did that day, the clock permanently

cocktails are as good as any breakfast.

set to 2:10, when they were overthrown.

Where better to relax the next morning than on the waterfront? In

We took a stroll through a special exhibit

this nautical city, a boat tour is an important point of view, and there

of French Impressionists (fitting, we thought,

are all kinds of boats available for rental, from the very high-end to

since the Hermitage is in constant and vicious

private catered group tours to open boats similar to the bateau-mouches

battle with the Louvre for the largest overall

of Paris. We saw views of the bridges that were inspiringly beautiful, as

collection of works) and were unpleasantly sur-

well as the less-exposed and less polished sides of the buildings that

prised by the conditions in some parts of the

really emphasizes the strife this city has seen. There are also some local

palace. The paintings sat under hazy lighting

oddities as the ruins of a massive shipbuilding factory can be found on

on cracked walls, next to windows open to the

a tiny man-made island. On a clear day, you can take a hydrofoil clear

humidity and ocean air. The upstairs galleries

across the Gulf of Finland, and one popular destination is Peterhof, one

where the more permanent collection is housed

of the summer palaces. Over 350 fountains on the grounds take advan-

are in more standard condition, and some of

tage of a naturally-occuring quirk in the river system here: a mountain

the works are super-protected, you can tell the

spring keeps them fed and spouting without a single pump or machine,

paintings that have been slashed, attacked

as it has for hundreds of years. The beautifully restored rooms include

with acid and otherwise damaged over the

personal effects of some of the country’s past leaders, and furnishings

years as they are the ones to be found under

that will make you wish you’d chosen interior design as your profession.

glass with a motion-detector alarm. We suggest

We finished up the night at the Alexandrinsky Theater for a per-

you not pay the 15 rubles to be allowed to take

formance of Swan Lake, but you won’t lack for cultural options here. The

pictures inside, though hundreds of your fellow

Russians are, collectively, a nation of balletomanes and opera buffs, and

visitors will; the experience of being inside

there are multiple performances taking place every night, including the

surrounded by centuries of history and the arts

Kirov Ballet at the Mariinsky Theater, arguably the biggest and best

is something you’ll never be able to capture in

in the country. And truly, it was a thrill to see a Tchaikovsky ballet

the frame anyway.

performed and then to file out into the Arts Square in the shadow of centuries of artists. They take their high culture seriously here, and it shows.

Getting there

Any previous visitor to St. Petersburg is probably wondering why we

There are connections to St. Petersburg’s

haven’t mentioned the Hermitage. Beautiful, challenging, unmissable

Pulkovo II International Airport (airport

and inescapable, no visit to the city is complete without it. As any rea-

code LED) from most major European

sonably worldly-minded person has probably heard before, the warning

cities; we took the opportunity to try out

goes that you can’t see the Louvre or the Hermitage in one day. And well,

Lufthansa’s new business class, complete

you can’t. Don’t try. There are several special exhibitions going at any

with

one time, although they’re not always well-advertised, and it’s best to just

boarding

pick one or two sections of interest so you have time to enjoy the art and

door on the plane), flat seats, plentiful

the interiors themselves. It’s a combination of grand baroque and spooky

entertainment

decay that just about sums up the indefinable nature of modern Russia.

through their new Star Chefs program.

Engaging a tour guide is an excellent way to make sure you know

We found the business class lounges to

what you’re looking at. There are a few extraordinary galleries, particu-

be the biggest enhancement for our trip

larly the halls of portraits, which are of great historical as well as artistic

as they were stocked and operational for

value, such as the Military Gallery, with more than 300 portraits paint-

tired travelers even in the wee hours of

ed from life of every officer that served in the Napoleonic Wars (blank

the morning. Entry visas to visit Russia

spaces are left for officers who died overseas or before their portraits

are required.

priority aisle

check-in, (through

and

a

dedicated a

meals

separate

prepared

could be paints), and the White Dining Room, where the Bolsheviks

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PAOLO BARZAN v1_31July 25/09/2009 14:25 Page 106

N

Nestled in the cozy back room of Manhattan’s Gramercy Tavern is an intimate gathering of about a dozen journalists and reporters talking amongst themselves over white wine, mushroom lasagna, and striped bass. Shortly before the table is surrounded by servers waiting to simultaneously set down the salad plates, Pierpaolo Barzan stands. Relaxed in jeans, a John Varvatos blazer, and slightly tousled dark locks, he stands to greet the table with ease. He doesn’t raise his voice or stiffen his naturally approachable demeanor. Instead, he warmly welcomes the small congregation of press as though he’s speaking to a group of longtime friends (who just so happen to be armed with tabletop recorders, paper and pen). He kindly thanks his attendees for lunching with him, briefly introduces his newest venture, and closes on

Ry Fyan Marshmallows, Oil Flowers, a Contact Lens: The Things in Front of the Eye, 2008 Oil, acrylic, correction fluid on panel 36 x 36 in.

The Renaissance Man Pierpaolo and Valeria Barzan

106

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PAOLO BARZAN v1_31July 25/09/2009 14:25 Page 107

Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS

this (adjective) note: “I think bold statements are better received in difficult economic times.”

The 34-year-old entrepreneur’s primary work lies in running Altay Scientific, a leading producer and distributor of science teaching equipment. But, about a year ago he founded The Depart Foundation, a project he has, “been dreaming of for a while”. Depart, which stands for

Valerie Hegarty Rothko Sunset, 2007 Foamcore, canvas, paper, paint, glue, wire, tape, sand, gel medium 42X32X8 inches

“discussion, exhibition and production of art”, is a global art foundation poised to make waves around the world, crossing cultural boundaries and generational lines. Opening September 19, the foundation, in collaboration with Museo Del Rome, will open the highly anticipated exhibition titled New York Minute. The show features a tight-knit group of 60 emerging New York artists who have created a contemporary renaissance of sorts and whose explorative pieces run the gamut from street punk

excitement of Depart’s upcoming “debut”. Paolo, his small- framed wife

murals to sculptured abstractions. Expect to marvel over genius works

Valeria, and I move into another quiet corner of the restaurant, where

from Dan Colen, Jules de Balincourt, Aurel Schmidt, the late Dash Snow

we discuss everything from Barzan’s longtime penchant for collecting

and many more.

things to what’s next for his revolutionary ventures.

Coming from a background of marketing, Paolo’s burgeoning foun-

“The problem is we get too much involved in our passions!” That

dation might seem a bit out of left field. But in many ways, the two are

was Valeria’s lighthearted response, followed by laughter, on how the

connected. “Art is an important educational mission. It’s an important el-

couple got involved in the wine and art industries. “Six or seven years

ement for productivity, development, and for nurturing the next genera-

ago, we went to a friend’s with whom we went to galleries and since then

tion. Exactly the same thing with science teaching, it’s about educating

we were hooked,” explained Paolo. Now the entrepreneur, who also used

and nurturing the next generation.” Following the three-course meal and

to collect surfboards and then rocks, has amassed an impressive art col-

a few glasses of wine, press slowly file out the door, chattering about the

lection with a heavy interest in young American artists. He racks his

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PAOLO BARZAN v1_31July 25/09/2009 14:25 Page 108

brain for a few moments before recalling his latest purchase; “[it was] a Ryan McGinley Photograph!”

Barzan’s roots clearly factor into his love for Rome. But of all the

Ester Partegas we the people (migraines), 2007 Inject ultrachrome archival 111x127 cm

states on the western part of the globe, why New York? “I’m in love with New York. I have been traveling extensively in the United States for a long time but I came to New York for the first time six years ago. I had a lot of misconceptions. ‘I’m more of a west coast person’ I thought. I came to New York by chance and now I love it. When I’m away for too long I miss New York like I miss a person. It’s a special thing. When we opened

And to further fuse together his worlds, Barzan’s 50-acre estate and

the foundation and talked about the first show, we said ‘lets showcase

vineyard, Poggio Golo, is currently undergoing renovations to include a

part of New York’”. By placing New York Minute in Rome, Barzan also

new winery, opening in December of 2010, an artist studio, and a per-

strives to reestablish artistic links between the two cities, a bond he feels

manent installation by French artist Daniel Buren. Sprawled across the

was very strong at one point, particularly in the 50’s. His hopes for the

hills of Montepulciano, the vineyard is also where Paolo’s blends are

exhibition to “plant some seeds” of reconnection are supported by the

produced, including the Tuscan red wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

exhibition’s young but seasoned curator Kathy Grayson. Grayson is also

It’s been said that “passion and purpose go hand in hand”. In jug-

the longtime gallery director of Deitch, and a core member of the New

gling an expansive winery, a science education company, and an art foun-

York contemporary art scene. Several performances, DJ sets and con-

dation, Barzan’s life is a true testament to turning one’s passions into

certs will accompany the excitement of September’s opening. You’ll “ex-

meaningful projects that can be heard worldwide. And when he’s not

perience a vibe” that Barzan calls simply “refreshing”.

consumed with changing the world, he enjoys building castles with his

Paolo, who emits a refreshingly easy-going vibe himself, seems to carry that demeanor throughout all that he does. Although he and Vale-

two young children. On juggling it all, he answers, “I enjoy all three activities. But of course, art is more lively than everything else”. n

ria, who met in school 15 years ago, attend the infamous Art Basel and Artissima festivals, the collector admits, “I prefer to go to museums and galleries rather than art shows”. It’s not for a lack of love, but rather a distaste for the exclusivity and rigidness that often accompany larger productions. That’s one reason why the enthusiast is making sure that New York Minute is free of all hassle. The opening festivities and exhibition are “open to the public and free”. “No special VIP card or anything like that. We are never in the cool party! Something we like about the contemporary art world is that it is accessible,” he says.

Planned extension to Poggio Golo 108

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PAOLO BARZAN v1_31July 25/09/2009 14:25 Page 109

Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS

Barry McGee Untitled (drawing bump), 2008 Mixed media dimensions variable 260 framed pieces - various sizes MCG 169 COURTESY DEITCH PROJECTS

Tomoo Gokita Untitled, 2007 oil on canvas 116 X 114 cm

Tauba Auerbach Shatter III, 2009 Acrylic and glass on panel 40 x 32 inches 101.6 x 81.28 cm TAu 63 image: tom powel imaging Courtesy Deitch Projects

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T H E E X P E R T S

I

t’s no secret that the world is oversaturated with products, places and people all claiming to be the best, particularly when it comes to our bodies.

‘Hope in a jar’ is the oldest marketing concept around, but even the most savvy consumers sometimes doubt whether they’re getting any real results from their time and money. We say: consider the

source. Rather than reaching for the latest potion concocted by an anonymous behemoth, or depending on a neophyte expert, the top of the line in personal care right now is made up of those with years of real-life experience, who have melded their life and

T H E

work to create a uniquely specialized experience for their clients.

E X

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Hairstylist Ric Pipino’s salon on Centre Market Place, arguably one

chedelic black and white cutting floor to the warm turquoise of the wait-

of the prettiest blocks in New York City, is a physical expression of his vi-

ing area, though truly, one wants to call it a living room – the living room

sion and his career. Raised in Australia, he had two brothers who were

of your chicest friend, of course, filled with quality furniture and good art

hairdressers, and though he himself never intended to be one, the charms

and glass tables and vitrines full of interesting objects, mostly designed

of the salon proved irresistible to him as a schoolboy: “All these girls in

by Pipino’s friends and intended for sale, although his salon manager

the salon, it was kind of fun. I was all about working.” He continued on to London, training and traveling as he went, and began doing his first shoots for magazine editorials, the space where hairstylists can truly begin to play. As his skills developed, he says, “My brother was already in New York, I decided to come for a visit and once you come to New York, you can’t really go anywhere else, can you? I really started working editorially right away.”

He traveled the world doing hair for the top magazines and models in the world, learning tips

“I knew what I wanted to achieve,” he says, “I wanted to make people look pretty while they’re getting their hair cut. To me, form and function means less clutter but better design.”

notes that anything without a price on it is something he’s not sure he can part with. He credits his fiancée Jenne Lombardo with her eye for feminine details, and she comes through regularly with friends; his family of regular clients has followed him through his move downtown. “I’m really happy with the space, it’s harder to do a small space but it’s better to be warm. We had to make that uptown client want to come down here, and we do it by making her feel sexy.” It’s not only about the results, although for maximum wattage he employs a rotating staff of experts in eyebrows,

and tricks along the way. “Editorial makes you confident that you can do

nails and makeup, it’s about the process from start to finish. The entire

anything or get out of anything,” he says.

salon is designed to keep visitors comfortable and relaxed, and employs

He has opened salons in Miami’s Shore Club and New York’s Bryant

a full complement of tricks to do so. For instance, instead of overhead

Park Hotel, but after years of working in other peoples’ spaces, he de-

lighting, the full-length mirrors in front of the chairs are backlit by a

cided it was time for one of his own. “It’s really fun being here, a real

beauty light, the favorite tool of photographers shooting skin up close, for

jewel box,” he says, gesturing around the space, and it’s no real-estate eu-

maximum glow. “I knew what I wanted to achieve,” he says, “I wanted to

phemism. While the space is small, it absolutely glows, from the psy-

make people look pretty while they’re getting their hair cut. To me, form and function means less clutter but better design.”

This same dictum applies to his new product line, Revolution in Cut, which is intended to simplify in much the same way.

Clients can find themselves in the hair types throughout the line and use the same products at home that they’re using in the salon (none completely finalized at press time, but we can tell you that the volumizing product is amazing) and recreate the results.

“I cut hair, that’s what I do. It’s really performance products. It’s about you, your style, the whole package – changing a style, what

X P E R T S makes it easy for you.”

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Online. Every single limited edition issue of the 100Thousand Club is available at www.100thousandclub.com. Take a visit for more exclusive information on our partners.

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THE EXPERTS:5nov

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L

aunching a new product line is a challenge for even

the inflammation-aging connection that brought attention to DMAE, and

an established brand, but for Nicholas Perricone,

there are more potential developments in the future. He theorizes that

starting his line of products went against every-

the penetration enhancement technology in Cold Plasma can be used

thing the establishment in his field knew. “Initially,

for science, perhaps to get insulin into diabetics. “I always thought, if we

when I first came out with my Anti-Inflammatory

didn’t do this research, someone else would, but it doesn’t work that way.

concept, it was not well-received, academic insti-

It seems like there’s only so much you can do and bring to the public.

tutions are pretty rigid in their approach, but they

Those benefits should be translated for the consumer. Pure science for

were ultimately proven wrong. Now other doctors are coming out with

just science makes no sense to me, the idea is to help people.” In bad

lines, but they’re not developing, just putting their names on it. It’s really

times as well as good, it’s important to focus on your health, and so he

changed the game in terms of science-based products. Products need to

sees a steady and continued interest in his products. “The creams are

be based on science, not hope in a jar. A consumer should get something from what they pay for,” he says, and he’s made a career out of putting the science into skincare.

Known to millions from his Oprah appearances and New York Times bestselling diet books, Perricone is not just a brand name. “I’m

highly effective, of course you see a difference,

“The creams are highly effective, of course you see a difference, but its not going to decrease your risk of Alzheimers”

a physician, nutritionist and a researcher, as well

but its not going to decrease your risk of Alzheimers. The A-I diet, the supplements, and the topicals are a three-tiered thing, its always been an integrated approach. It’s a long list of approaches that changes people’s habits and lives. We look upon it as life-changing, that we’re really educating consumers. We really

as a dermatologist, and you also have some creativity as well. It’s an un-

focus on the positive aspects, and we believe that vanity is a good thing

usual combination,” he says of the characteristics that led him down this

– it motivates people, and if the desire to be beautiful makes someone

path. His latest product, Cold Plasma Cream, is a perfect case study in

healthier, that’s fine with me.”

how his multi-faceted mind works. “It’s a product I wanted to develop for

Motivating people towards beauty and health is something that

years but it took some technology to make it happen. The problem I was

Tracy Anderson has staked her career on. It’s her vision of beauty that

trying to address was something I’d been thinking about because I’m a

has shaped the goals of thousands of women around the world. A

nutritionist and a lot of the products we’ve created surround the cell with

dancer most of her life, she struggled with significant weight gain

nutrition that they can then feed off of. The issue is that there’s such a

when she started college, and began 10 years of experimentation and

thing as biochemical individuality: some people require thousands per-

study to develop a method that would not only cause her to lose the

cent more of a nutrient to absorb it. We wanted to provide a huge quan-

weight, it would entirely reshape the female body, focusing on the

tity, and then the cells could take whatever we need. It requires

small muscle groups to create the kind of tiny, bird-like figure so

something called ionic suspension, which you can’t usually produce in

many women crave. She had occasion to test the method and appa-

a jar, but this technology isolates the molecule and acts as a penetration enhancer to get ions into the cell. Now we can feed all the cells whatever they need.” He creates the concepts for his products, writes up the formulas, takes out patents and has a lab make up and do clinical testing all in his Connecticut office, remaining as hands on as possible for a man this busy.

“There’s never been any balance, it’s always been just going every day and getting to it – fixed appointments, talking to chemists, patent attorneys, talking to individuals about research – its not just cosmetics related, there’s some skin-cancer related research as well. My epitaph will read “Never a boring moment,” he jokes.

“I just wish I had more time to do research, the more research I do the more interesting things I find,” he says. Some of his research has led to major industry-wide advancements, like

THE EXPERTS:5nov

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ratus she designed after a 60-pound weight

trainers, offering over 85 classes a week, nu-

gain during her pregnancy, and within weeks

tritional guidance, as well as several unique

was back into size- 0 jeans. She then tested her

fitness systems designed to focus on the mus-

workout on 150 women of all shapes and sizes

cle groups she considers most important, in-

to determine if her method could produce the

cluding bars, bands, cubes and the Hybrid

same teeny-tiny dancer type body in anyone.

Body Reformer, a resistance apparatus that

She’s also taken her show on the road, train-

uses aerobics and dance moves to reshape the

ing Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow for movies

body. “I wanted to know if we can really

and tours, working intensively in person and via

change the body against genetics and we can,”

the internet to make sure they keep up with her

she says. "This is a new way of doing things,

program, and the results showed. Madonna’s bi-

it's a new formula.”

ceps have made more recent headlines than her

When you look over the

hits, all of which she credits to Tracy. Her DVDs

flawless faces, great hair and

have become bestsellers, and they are killer –

incredible bodies of these gurus’

endless dance routines that leave all but the

poster clients, it’s important to

most experienced gasping for breath. “It's the most frus-

wonder if those results are appli-

trating thing in the world if you’re a non-dancer,” she has

cable to those of us living in the

admitted. “It takes time to learn. But once you do learn

real world, but all of these ap-

it and you're able to just go through the 45-minute tape

proaches are predicated on being

and dance around, it will be literally the best friend

available to everyone who cares

your body has ever had. You're not hitting your joints

enough to try them. A cut with Pipino is

over and over again from the same rotations, you're burning an extreme amount of calories and you're working your muscles in different movements every few beats so that lots of

hundreds of dollars less than his peers because, he says, “I want a girl who likes my work to be able to come in and have

other, smaller muscles have to wake up and help too.”

her dream haircut with me, personally.”

However, if the results you can achieve at home

Perricone goes regularly on QVC to explain the benefits of his prod-

aren’t enough for you, Tracy Anderson Studios in

ucts start to finish, and when Anderson first arrived in New

LA and New York, her members-only studio con-

York, she taught large group classes at the Marriot to intro-

cept is the embodiment of her research. Each

duce her techniques to the curious. The experts are out

studio includes a staff of similarly motivated

there—it’s up to consumers to take advantage.

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25/9/09 16:20:00

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Legend of the

Pearl

A

s the saying goes, ‘diamonds

are a girl’s best friend’, but if a woman lusts after diamonds then it’s love that she shares with pearls. According to Salvador J. Assael, founder, chairman and owner

of Assael International, the romance exists simply because pearls are, as he describes, “nature’s true gem.”

Birthed from oysters, the nacreous substance claims an understated but regal presence that sets it apart from its sparkly, more contrived counterparts. Its rich history, intimate connection with earth’s oceanic roots, and long-time love affair with regal dams has made the iridescent gem a timeless and alluring luxury.

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Although the precious prize has been retrieved and harvested in waters around the world for over 4000 years, it wasn’t until around three decades ago that the world met and fell in love with the exotic black Tahitian pearl. Salvador J. Assael, who humbly describes himself as, “intelligent, passionate about [his] work and family,” is to thank for the brilliant introduction.

Not your run of the mill merchant, Assael didn’t simply enter the jewellery business with a one-track vision for glitz and glamour. A rarity much like the treasures he cultivates, his genuine passion sprouts from his early days in Italy where he studied ancient history, archaeology, mineralogy and gemology. After extensive schooling in all things earthly, it makes complete sense that the jeweller landed in the pearl business. “I went into business because of my father. Gemology was my favorite subject and while working with my family, it helped me understand [things] outside the books and classroom. It made me appreciate the gems I dealt with and the knowledge I had prior,” says Assael. Dubbed ‘The king of pearls’, he earned his spot on the throne while working under the wing of his father James Assael. He remembers how it started in World War II, around the time Salvador’s father, who was previously a diamond dealer in Europe, began selling waterproof watches to American army men. “When the war ended, my father was left with thousands of Swiss watches,” he explains. “The Japanese needed watches but had no money, so my father exchanged watches for pearls from the Japanese. He taught me how to barter.”

When asked how the idea of selling Tahitian natural colored culture pearls was born, Assael fondly recalls being on his yacht, cruising in Saint

“I went into business because of my father.

Gemology was my favorite subject and while working with my family, it helped me understand [things] outside the books and classroom”

Tropez in 1973, when his good friend Jean- Claude Brouillet spoke with him about a far-flung atoll he purchased in French Polynesia. “Brouillet raved about the turquoise waters producing black lipped oysters and pearls,” said Assael.

It was during those times that the businessman would fleet back and forth to his own island, solely accessible via private jet, in the Tuamotu Archipelago. “I began breeding black lipped oysters there. I [also] used it as a getaway years ago.”

Within the first year, the crops that Assael had been nurturing and tending came out less than great, unfitting for his stringent standards of perfection. Undaunted, the entrepreneur recollects waiting for another year, “until [his] harvest produced better specimens. I took several Tahitian strands to my old friend Harry Winston who, a visionary himself, bought them all hoping to sell a few. He made magnificent jewellery out of the strands and put them in his fifth avenue window with an outrageous price tag.” After a short period of time and a good dose of well-calculated marketing, a black-pearl frenzy started in New York and spread across the states, clamoring to claim a piece of the jewel for themselves. Winston was pleas-

118

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Jeweler Salvador Assael Selecting Black Pearls from Robert Wan, the largest single producer and exporter of Tahitian Black Pearls

pearls with non-traditional elements such as denim, rubber and wood”.

His pearly numbers have also been the go-to accessory down the

antly surprised at the news that he had completely sold out of Assael’s

runway, from Balmain to Oscar de la Renta. “An old friend of mine

once marginalised pearls.

[Oscar de la Renta] commissioned $25 million worth of South Sea pearl

On a business trip to Tahiti, Salvador remembers stumbling across

jewelry for models to wear while showing his spring line,” Assael says.

what he describes as, “A 24mm huge button-shaped pearl that was very

So, how exactly does an inexhaustible jetsetter stop and relax for just

impressive in size but unattractive in colour. As I was inspecting the

a moment? “I adore chocolate and traveling to Europe, to Switzerland

pearl, I noticed some layers open in the back and decided to peel them.

and to my homeland of Italy. They have the best chocolate locations; I

The risk was either finding a smaller pearl or completely ruining the

also love reading biographies,” he exclaims with a glimmer.

pearl itself, but once peeled it came out that he had a magnificent 22mm

With a lifetime achievement award from Modern Jeweler under his

round pearl and sold it for $200 thousand, a hidden gem under the layer

belt, the Chevalier Dans L’ordre De Tahiti Nui award from the Tahit-

of an ugly duckling.”

ian Government, and the atrium at the Gemological Institute of Amer-

In his unwavering commitment to maintain Assael International’s im-

ican named after him, it’s clear that the pioneer has whipped up a

peccable taste, Salvador explains how in a potential collaboration he al-

delightful recipe for success. On mixing business with pleasure, he

ways looks for, “Integrity, good work ethic, loyalty, experience or initiative

adamantly declares, “If you’re making money doing something you

to learn new things.” After serving as Vice President of Sotheby’s jew-

love, it enhances one another.” Yet, he rejects the notion that he’s an

ellery department for 15 years, Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia joined Assael

inventor of any sort. “Someone always comes up with new ideas. There

International as Vice President Creative Director in 2003. His collabora-

was Thomas Alva Edison, and then Bill Gates.” However, the mild-

tive work with Prince Dimitri, amongst others, was an attempt to shake

mannered gent with an adventurous spirit doesn’t plan on slowing down

things up yet again in the rather traditional world of pearls. “Their fresher,

any time soon. “I am still a people person and always have been. I

newer look incorporated diamonds, moonstones and other gemstones to

have a young wife, young family and a dedicated staff that wants to

the look of classic pearls,” Assael explains. “Prince Dimitri combined

continue my legacy for many more generations to come.”

100 Thousand Club

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E

very September, the

because this is the moment when the future

the course of his eight-year tenure. With the

horseracing

of the sport, the latest crop of thoroughbred

down economy nevertheless a factor, interest

racers, is distributed around the world.

in this particular sale remains high. Keenel-

world

gathers in Lexington Kentucky for two of

Geoffrey Russell, Director of Sales, is

and has remained the top name in the field

the most important

entering his 13th season ts Keeneland after

and sold more champions and stakes winners

weeks of the year, the

years in the horse world, and his authority on

than any of their competitors, making this an

Keeneland

Racing

thoroughbred sales is unparalleled. Raised in

attractive business venture year after year for

September Yearling Sale. Although this may

Ireland, he arrived in the United States in 1982

many investors. “Some horses sell very well

not be the kind of big-hat and mint-julep event

for a summer internship, and never left. “It’s

and recoup it, like Fusaichi Pegasus, who was

most civilians associate with the sport of horse

my job and my hobby,” he says of the horses

a Derby winner,” says Russel. Another being

racing, this is in a way a more important event

he’s sold to the tune of $2,561,188,600 over

the 2006 Belmont winner, Jazil.

Champions for Sale

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25/9/09 14:13:01

“There’s no mistake that there’s a huge

Russell, whose Southern drawl belies his

agent, but its not like buying Barry Bonds’

business component to it, but a lot of people

Emerald Isle roots. “Keeneland is the leader

baseball, they’re living and breathing things,

do it for enjoyment in their retirement. Its very

in the world, so in that regard I’m at the top of

so you have to come in and inspect them, be

family-oriented, they can go to the races as a

where I can be.”

sure the horse reflects what you’re looking for.

At Sotheby’s its either a Monet or it’s not a

group, its great for families to get together. It’s

The auctioneers welcome 800 people

also major business. We’ve sold horses for as

at a time into the sales pavilion, as well as

much as $13 million [Seattle Dancer, sold for

each of the horses, one by one, brought from

The town of Lexington transforms for the

$13.1 in 1985, a record that still stands], so

a show ring in the back to a sales ring in the

event, from the sleepy center of the horse-

Nonet—maybe it’s a Manet!” he jokes.

it’s very strong. Some people are just commercial breeders and they breed horses as their livelihood.”

Both these types gather together on the grounds of Keeneland to experience the excitement of the sale. “We have a very beauti-

“I think the thrill of it all, of winning in the auction ring or on the track, that most people don’t know until they experience it”

ful plant, over 1000 acres of parkland and 46 barns for the horses to be shown out of. When

122

the sale starts, the atmosphere is electric and

front, as an announcer reads out their names

breeding world to an international mecca.

the excitement fantastic. The night before a

and lines. Despite all the advantages in auc-

“What makes Keeneland one of the leaders

sale we have a party for our consigners and

tion technology across the industry, this sale

is because we’re based here. There are four

our buyers, and we like to tie it into our com-

remains very much the same as it ever has.

major sales companies in North America,

munity – this year it’s a Taste of Kentucky,

“There’s a live streaming of the sale, but it’s

as well as one in Ireland, England, France

to help them feel what it’s all about,” says

all done on site. You can phone in to your

and Australia; it’s a global business. We ship

100 Thousand Club

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While he won’t reveal too many details in the short few days before the auction starts, there are a few in particular that are on many peoples’ short lists: “Stormcat’s second to last crop is up for sale. Its his last full crop and we think they’ll be very well received. We’re also doing the dispersal of Overbrook Farm, who have built up a wonderful band of brood mares that are very exciting. Its an exciting time, a nerve-racking time for our consignors, this is their livelihood – it’s nerve racking but we do look forward to it.”

As a livelihood, it’s certainly something of a nerve-racking choice these days, but Russell says his veteran colleagues remain more or less unshaken. “There is tax depreciation allowed on horses, and the farm bill increased some incentive with the stimulus package. You can still earn an awful lot of money racing in North America or around the world, but it’s an expensive hobby.” Besides, he laughs, it’s not in the nature of those in the horse world to be depressed about the economy. “We’re an opthese horses to the four corners of the world.

we have a constant flow of people coming and

timistic industry, everyone who buys a horse

The majority of our horses are from Lexing-

going with the high end horses selling fi rst,

thinks they’re going to win the Kentucky

ton, and people come to buy what we have.”

and then so on through 16 days this year. The

Derby. No one buys hoping to just break even.

They conduct all their auctions here four

fi rst two days we’ll sell about 200 a day and

So we tend to be optimistic in our outlook, but

times a year and each time is a major pro-

then 400 a day after that.”

we’re of course smart enough to realize that

duction. Entries close on May 1st and then

They also draw in a strong flow of visitors

physical evaluations begin on the majority

from around the world, particularly from other

Despite the current economy, purchasing

of the horses to be sold (2700 of the 5100

horse-loving regions. There is no mistake, the

a Keeneland horse tends to be a favorable

for sale this year). “We go all through North

thoroughbred horse is traced back to the three

investment over time, because of the high

America, as well as seeing some in Europe,

foundation Arabians, and the great love for

stud fees many highly pedigreed horses make

and by the end of July we put together the

horse racing in the Middle East makes this

after their purse-winning years are over. Of

catalog. In October we conduct racing, it’s

a major draw for many of the royal families,

course, you can’t put a price on the feeling of

the highest average purses in North Amer-

many of whom come in person to participate in

participating in events like the Derby or the

ica, and then in November we sell mares.

the sale. “One of the major buyers and inves-

Triple Crown or even the sale itself from the

Our catalogs are graded based on pedigree;

tors in the industry are the Maktoum family

seat of an owner, watching the action up close,

the better pedigrees tend to sell early, the

from Dubai. We have a lot of involvement and

with your own heart on the line, bookended by

ones that we feel have strong conformational

they’ve all purchased at one time or another.

glamourous social events. “I think the thrill of

attributes.”

It varies if they come in themselves: Sheikh

it all, of winning in the auction ring or on the

it’s a very different time.”

“Our sales attract buyers from all over

Mohammed comes on a regular basis, King

track, that most people don’t know until they

America, probably 75 percent of our gross is

Abdullah from Saudi Arabia sends advisors,

experience it,” Russell says. “We see that a

domestic; the other being from over 48 coun-

so it varies based on the principals them-

lot and it’s a great encouragement for people

tries around the world. We sell at all levels so

selves. They’re very involved in all of this.”

who are at that level. They enjoy winning.”

100 Thousand Club

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TOP 10 (ART AUCTIONS) ($):27APR

25/9/09

09:56

As the selling season for 2009 draws to a close, we took a look back to see what the auction houses went through in this tumultuous year. The Yves Saint Laurent sale was a hotly-anticipated event that lived up to the hype, but otherwise buyers seemed to retreat to the tried-and-true Old Masters, moving around major works that have been proven to hold their value over time, and staying out of the younger and more volatile contemporary market. Art as investment is a tricky thing, but you can’t put a price on becoming the caretaker for a piece of history.

Page 124

CHRISTIE’S NEW YORK: Post War and Con-

dern sale, with the sale of Mousquetaire a la

temporary Art Evening Sale, $94 million

pipe topping the auction at a price of almost

The first contemporary art auction on our list

$15,000,000. This, along with another Van

featured five paintings by Andy Warhol, all of

Gogh-inspired work, Femme au chapeau, the

which went for over $1 million. The most ex-

second highest grossing painting from the lot at

pensive, The Last Supper (Camel/57), which

almost $8,000,000, reflects to a degree the con-

sold for $4 million, is one of Warhol’s most sig-

tinued interest in appreciating how the great

nificant pieces, and the meaning of the pain-

masters interacted in their lives and works.

ting’s juxtaposition of Da Vinci’s historical Last Supper with a cigarette brand has been debated

CHRISTIE’S PARIS: Collection Yves Saint

for decades. Warhol’s Brigitte Bardot, the epo-

Laurent et Pierre Berge; $500 million

nymous portrait, was also a highlight of the auc-

When Yves Saint Laurent wasn’t working at the

tion, selling for almost $3 million.

forefront of fashion, he was accumulating a major art collection, with a truly diverse flavour.

CHRISTIE’S NEW YORK: Impressionist/

The auction of his collection by Christie’s was

Modern Art Evening Sale, $103 million

the biggest of all time, and includes many no-

Picassos dominate the most notable works from

table pieces, including Henri Matisse’s Les

the second highest grossing impressionist/mo-

coucous, tapis bleu et rose, and numerous

A

rt

TOP 10 (ART AUCTIONS) ($):27APR

25/9/09

09:58

Page 125

sculptural and furniture pieces, including Ei-

was the highest grossing of the three,

leen Gray’s Fauteuil Aux Dragons, a magnifi-

fetching almost $6.5 million and for

cent armchair made of the finest materials,

good reason; the painting is a masterful

which sold for almost $30 million.

example of Miro’s ‘slow’ composition techniques, and exceeded the price

CHRISTIE’S LONDON: Impre-

estimate by over $2 million upon sale.

ssionist/ Modern Art Evening Sale, $125 million

SOTHEBY’S LONDON: Impre-

The largest of the impressionist

ssionist and Modern Art Evening

sales this year, the most expensive

Sale, $67 million

item was Claude Monet’s Dans la

The highlight of this impressio-

prairie, which was an artistic

nist/modern auction was the sale of

highlight of Monet’s time spent

three pieces by Alberto Giacometti,

at Argenteuil, selling for $16

all for over $2.5 million. The most ex-

million. Also of particular note

pensive piece by Giacometti, the

was the sale of several pieces by Kees

Buste de Diego (Amenophis), sold for

van Dongen, including La cuirasse d’or,

almost $7 million. While it may have

Femme aux deux colliers and La

fetched the highest price, the Diego

femme au collant vert, all selling

(Tete au Col Roule) is perhaps the

for over $1.5 million each. The

most interesting piece of his from this

pieces were all portraits, Don-

sale, given the uniqueness of the

gen’s forte, and together represent

painted head, visually representing

some of the best of his work.

CHRISTIE’S LONDON: Impressionist/

the essence of Giacomotti’s philosophy, as he said, “There is no difference be-

are phenomenal classical works, and the story

tween painting and sculpture”.

of The Temple of Jupiter is a true art-world

Modern Art Evening Sale, $74 million

myth; besides brief exposure in an exhibition

While painters from Picasso to Jawlensky were

SOTHEBY’S LONDON: Impressionist and

in 1853, the painting was almost forgotten

represented at this sale, some of the lots that

Modern Art Evening Sale, $64 million

from 1816 through to 1982, before reemerging

drew the most attention were a collection of

A perennial favourite with collectors, museums

into the spotlight.

works by Jean Miro. Paintings included Mont-

and art lovers all over the world, Petite Dan-

roig, le point, Peinture (Femme se poudrant)

seuse de Quatorze Ans, by Edgar Degas, was

SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK: Impressionist

and Peinture. Peinture (Femme se poudrant)

sold for approximately $26 million. Besides

and Modern Art Evening Sale,

this intricacy of the famous fabric tutu, the Pe-

$61 million

tite Danseuse is the only Degas sculpture that

While this Sotheby’s impressionist

was exhibited to the public while Degas was

sale was not dominated by any artist

alive. In addition to Degas’s sculpture, this auc-

in particular, special attention must be

tion also featured three portraits by Egon

paid to the works of Tamara de

Schiele, each considered to be from the pinna-

Lempicka, four of which were

cle of his career.

sold here. Three portraits of Lempicka’s were sold as well as

SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK: Important Old

one still life, with two portraits

Master Paintings, Including European

fetching over $4 million. The Port-

Works of Art, $63 million

rait de Marjorie Ferry was Lempic-

The most notable sales during Sotheby’s Im-

ka’s highest grossing item, selling

portant Old Master Paintings auction include

for almost $5 million, and ap-

that of Hendrick Ter Brugghen’s Bagpipe Pla-

propriately so; experts agree

yer in Profile for $10 million as well as Joseph

that the portrait is a tex-

Mallord William Turner’s The Temple of Jupi-

tbook example of what de-

ter Panellenius for $13 million. Both paintings

fines Lempicka’s style.

© The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/DACS, London 2009 (opposite) © Succession Picasso/DACS 2009 (above)

TINSLEY MORTIMER Q&A_sep09 25/09/2009 16:11 Page 126

Where do you call home?

Where do you go to get away from it all?

New York City

I visit my mother in Palm Beach frequently because it’s such a quick flight from New York, but besides Palm Beach I like

Where did you go to school?

Newport as well as the typical European destinations, like

Columbia College, and I went to boarding school at

London and Paris.

Lawrenceville.

Bags or shoes?

What do you do?

Bags!

I’m a designer and model for Samantha Thavasa. It’s my fourth year working with Samantha Thavasa, and I design and sell

Blackberry or iphone?

handbags for all seasons. I’ve designed roughly forty to fifty

(*Glances at Blackberry next to her*) Blackberry girl, of

styles so far. I also work with Riccini, which Samantha

course!

Thavasa owns, but that brand is only sold in Japan. Besides my work with Samantha Thavasa, I also work with Dior as a

Going green or staying luxe?

beauty ambassador and created their “Tinsley Pink” lip-gloss.

Obviously helping the environment is good but I stay luxe.

Who have you always looked up to?

What is your dream automobile?

In general my mother, but when it comes to business both Diane

I love the Bentley Continental as well as the Porsche Cayenne.

Von Furstenburg and Tory Burch have been inspirations.

New York, London, Paris or Milan?

What rule or motto do you live by?

New York!

I don’t really have a personal motto but I try to be a positive person because I believe you get back what you put out. I also

If you had to choose, whose clothing would you wear

have this little saying I borrowed from Ron Popeil, which is

everyday?

“set it and forget it”. While he applied it to rotisserie chicken,

I love over the top and extravagant designers, so I’d have to go

I use it when dressing because you can’t keep worrying about

with Balenciaga or Balmain.

what you’re wearing – it’s an odd connection between chicken and fashion, but it works!

Where are you traveling next?

St. Moritz for a wedding! I love it during the winter but I’ve Which charities do you hold most dear to your heart?

never been during the summer; I’ve heard it’s gorgeous year-

New Yorkers for Children and the American Museum of Nat-

round so I’m really looking forward to it!

ural History Where is your favorite dining spot?

Philippe. I like traditional New York restaurants and I like my restaurants to be dark – it makes dining fun!

TINSLEY MORTIMER

TINSLEY MORTIMER Q&A_sep09 25/09/2009 16:11 Page 127

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Is $2250 too much for a bottle of tequila? The master distillers at Jose Cuervo don’t think so – at least not for this very special blend, the 250 Aniversario, a special limited edition of super-premium Extra Añejo. The extra-aging process blends tequilas ranging in age from three to 100 years old, from the Jose Cuervo family cellars, which are then aged in toasted new American Oak barrels for a minimum of three years, and finished for 10 months in sherry casks. So what does tequila taste like at over a hundred dollars a shot? We tasted from the first bottle ever opened, one of 495 worldwide, and it was a revelation: peppery, fruity, earthy, and sweet, with vanilla and caramel notes that reveal themselves slowly, buzzing on the tongue and warming the throat. Tequila, in other words, to be sipped and savored and shared with (very close) friends.

StRegisBali.indd 2

24/9/09 15:47:19

Plaza Hotel.indd 1

24/9/09 11:52:44